@Rico I was thinking the same thing last night as I was reading through it and using it as an example to write my own business plan. Many sections of it are perfectly worded.
Hey guys new machine builder asking question about the powerbox. I have power coming in from a plug going into one side of dinkle terminal block. I want 3 outputs, 2 larger guage wires (10 guage) going to L1's of forward and reverse contactors and 1 smaller guage wire (12 guage) going to rotary and then auxillarys controlling the contactors. What's the best method of getting multiple outputs from a dinkle terminal?
you could daisy chain it on the upper terminals and then pick it from the bottom but yet - I call this a bad connection.
Here the basics for wiring anything
I use the distribution blocks (on the left) instead, can be found in most hardware shops. The other stuff can be found on Amazon
10:27 AM
The clips in the top middle are great for low power stuff. Often they over rate such things, same for SSR relays btw.
I should add that lot's of the Amazon stuff is rather low grade, it works but it's a very noticeable difference to the stuff you can get from specialized shops as rs-online.
-- osr-support --
you could daisy chain it on the upper terminals and then pick it from the bottom but yet - I call this a bad connection.
Here the basics for wiring anything
I use the distribution blocks (on the left) instead, can be found in most hardware shops. The other stuff can be found on Amazon
Yes I was thinking about daisy chaining as well but I didnt know if it was "proper". Ok I have the stuff on the right and bottom already (from amazon haha) but I cant seem to find these distribution blocks on the left. Do you have a link? I'm in US but even a EU link would I just want to look closer at them. Thanks!!!
It's DinRail, yeah - but hey, if it's hobby use - it's ok what you're doing. I usually add just some comments for completeness
I am still trying to find it for the US (for the Googlesheet), hang on - will add checkmark when done
you're welcome - if you have questions, I've tons more about.
just got the shop updated today, here 30 mins blabla, evtl. interesting for beginners, long story short - the big stuff did cost pretty much the same as all the crap over years
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pkIpe-B20GY&ab_channel=PlasticHub(edited)
Hey everyone quick wiring question. I'm on the last step and I can't seem to get my shredder to reverse! I am pretty sure everything is wired correctly. I have a forward and reverse contactor that reverses polarity between L1 and L2. But when I run it it only goes forward.
The motor wiring schematic shows that in order to reverse one must switch T5 and T8. But my forward and reverse contacts essentially only switch L1 and L2.
I ended up switching T5 and T8 and the motor reverses, but only reverse. I even put the schematic back in the original position (T5; T1; L1) (T8;T4;L2) and then manually switched L1 and L2 and it still only goes forward.
What can I do?
Hey everyone quick wiring question. I'm on the last step and I can't seem to get my shredder to reverse! I am pretty sure everything is wired correctly. I have a forward and reverse contactor that reverses polarity between L1 and L2. But when I run it it only goes forward.
The motor wiring schematic shows that in order to reverse one must switch T5 and T8. But my forward and reverse contacts essentially only switch L1 and L2.
I ended up switching T5 and T8 and the motor reverses, but only reverse. I even put the schematic back in the original position (T5; T1; L1) (T8;T4;L2) and then manually switched L1 and L2 and it still only goes forward.
What can I do?
Did you get this sorted? Your results make sense. T5 and T8 are used to produce an auxiliary magnetic field which "pulls" the motor either clockwise or counter-clockwise. It does this by shifting the timing of the electric field with respect to L1 and L2. So you have to have to supply power to L1 and L2 and also switch T5 and T8.
L1 and L2 don't have polarity. At least they don't have constant polarity. They are carrying AC voltage. Each one switches between positive and negative 60 times per second. When L1 is positive, L2 is negative, and vice versa. This referred to as being 180 degrees out of phase.
Green Ellipsis
Did you get this sorted? Your results make sense. T5 and T8 are used to produce an auxiliary magnetic field which "pulls" the motor either clockwise or counter-clockwise. It does this by shifting the timing of the electric field with respect to L1 and L2. So you have to have to supply power to L1 and L2 and also switch T5 and T8.
L1 and L2 don't have polarity. At least they don't have constant polarity. They are carrying AC voltage. Each one switches between positive and negative 60 times per second. When L1 is positive, L2 is negative, and vice versa. This referred to as being 180 degrees out of phase.
Thanks for the explanation, makes sense. I haven't gotten a reversing drum switch like @CitSciWorkshop suggested which I think will solve the problem. Luckily no jams so far while shredding
So my shredder shaft just snapped all I can do now is replace the shaft and hopefully I can build the v4 in the future.
Old shaft was 4130-Normalized but I am looking for something that has better shear strength.
I can get hexbars in:
4140/4142-Cold Finish
304/304L-Annealed Cold Finish
303-Annealed Cold Finish
316/316L-Annealed Cold Finish
Any suggestions for a new shaft that might be stronger and is relatively easy to machine?(edited)
Can you get any heat treated 4140 up to 50 RC is still machinable use positive rake carbide , check machinery's hand book for surface speed. Besure to feed .012 or more on rough cuts to be sure to be under work hardening. Check with a place that supplies gunsmiths they may have reasonably 4130 ht to about 30 RC. Something that you might be able to get is 1040 heat treat it yourself. Do an experiment with quench I think oil will still be fast enough and not cause warping if quenched properly. Ask if you clarification on this.
It's for the V2 imperial version so it's 1 inch milled down to 3/4 to fit the bearing.
Paulum
Can you get any heat treated 4140 up to 50 RC is still machinable use positive rake carbide , check machinery's hand book for surface speed. Besure to feed .012 or more on rough cuts to be sure to be under work hardening. Check with a place that supplies gunsmiths they may have reasonably 4130 ht to about 30 RC. Something that you might be able to get is 1040 heat treat it yourself. Do an experiment with quench I think oil will still be fast enough and not cause warping if quenched properly. Ask if you clarification on this.
For comparisons on materials. So that costs don't get high because of custom processing. I will put material then tensile strength then yield strength the psi. I am usually going to use yield strengths for this. The bnh number is hardness
304 85000,35000,
304L 80000,30000
4140 ht 445 bnh 225000,208000
4140 norm. 302 bnh, 148000,95000
4140 annealed 197 bnh, 95000,60500
Hope this helps make pocket book sense. Depending on where you are at there maybe a metal service center that "might" be reasonable cost for mill hardened materials. These materials were common but often purchases for jobs in quantity. In bigger cities metal scrap yards might have resale areas. That is a search and that takes time.
CitSciWorkshop
What is the motor kw rating and gearbox mechanical torque output?
5.0hp (3.7kw) and Mechanical output torque of the gear box is 4720 lb-in.
Paulum
For comparisons on materials. So that costs don't get high because of custom processing. I will put material then tensile strength then yield strength the psi. I am usually going to use yield strengths for this. The bnh number is hardness
304 85000,35000,
304L 80000,30000
4140 ht 445 bnh 225000,208000
4140 norm. 302 bnh, 148000,95000
4140 annealed 197 bnh, 95000,60500
Hope this helps make pocket book sense. Depending on where you are at there maybe a metal service center that "might" be reasonable cost for mill hardened materials. These materials were common but often purchases for jobs in quantity. In bigger cities metal scrap yards might have resale areas. That is a search and that takes time.
So at the end of the day it looks like the 4140 has the highest strength but before I purchase the hexbar I should reach out to my machinist and see if he can easily machine 4140 due to high bnh? Thanks for putting this together.
What he may be able to do is machine rough machine it. Depending on how he can get it heat treated, wrapped or clear atmosphere(this could be expensive) to control scale then finish machine. This will also make a straight part sometimes parts warp during quenching. Hope he can do the machining. If he can get clear atmosphere affordable do the threading before HT.
7:00 PM
That is a strong torque can see why the other part broke.
You are welcome. What is the smallest diameter on this shaft? Would like to see if putting a torque limiter in the drive would be a good idea a shear pin or key maybe a torque limiting clutch. When that motor starts stalling the torque gets very high with that reduction. Another way would be monitor the current the motor is using and when the current exceeds a point electricly shut it down. This could be a bit of trial and error with gear downs and the motor coasting after power loss.
Here are some close figures of ultimate shear strength for 3/4" diameter shaft if using threaded part of shaft for drive shaft it will be less.
304 2635 in lb
304L 2480
445bnh 4140 6975
302bnh 4140 4588
197bnh 4140 2945
Hey everyone question about wiring extrusion pro. In the schematic they have everything being fed with a 5-wire multicore cable (3 phase power 3 hot legs, neutral, ground). They have each of the hot legs coming out of the relay and powering one set of PID controller and Solid State relay.
For others that have wired this in a split/single phase setting, how did you wire up your band heaters since I will only have 2 hot legs at 120v to work with?(edited)
Weβve gathered a lot of feedback on the shredder from our community and made a small upgrade which makes it a bit easier to build, swap the mesh and chop plastic.
Hi folks! I'm in the process of reworking my Precious Plastic extrusion machine into a variant focused on education, and it occurred to me that I should let the community know.
My concept is targeted for educational use in the US, emphasizing portability and manufacturability at the expense of throughput. The extrusion machine splits into two pieces, can be moved by a single person, has a CE-compliant single-phase power supply with DC motor and current sense, and has guards over all moving parts.
A second machine will be a low-speed shredder module that mates with the same motor/gearbox.
The design will be open source and require no welding. Here is a napkin sketch, minus hoppers and electronics.(edited)
3
adamj537
Hi folks! I'm in the process of reworking my Precious Plastic extrusion machine into a variant focused on education, and it occurred to me that I should let the community know.
My concept is targeted for educational use in the US, emphasizing portability and manufacturability at the expense of throughput. The extrusion machine splits into two pieces, can be moved by a single person, has a CE-compliant single-phase power supply with DC motor and current sense, and has guards over all moving parts.
A second machine will be a low-speed shredder module that mates with the same motor/gearbox.
The design will be open source and require no welding. Here is a napkin sketch, minus hoppers and electronics. (edited)
Been thinking along the same lines, but separate machines, hand crack option, with a motor and gearbox upgrade that would be same, with the ratio modular to fit the needs of each machine.
Iβm not sure if this is the right place to post this but there is a plastic recycling company in Oklahoma that is auctioning off equipment (including some precious plastic builds) and processed reclaimed plastic. The auction is available online and starts at 8 am central tomorrow. https://www.proxibid.com/Dakil-Auctioneers-Inc/PALE-BLUE-PLASTICS/event-catalog/246376
I SOOO wish I could get some of those machines, I am going to be setting up a shop space soon and I want the shredder sheet press and extruder. Sadly I am in Maine and moving to northen Idaho so I don't think its possible right now.
Iβm kind of in the same situation, I couldnβt get away from work to go to the physical auction so Iβm hoping I can get the shredder and injection set on the web auction..(edited)
I was already sleep deprived when arriving at the warehouse at 3am yesterday morning, managed 2.5 hours in the cab of the truck, and was overwhelmed by fatigue. The bid process was strange, being in batch-lots with a high-bid selection priority among all the listings in the batch; when it came to actually bidding, I couldn't make decisions fast enough, and faltered under the pressure, racked with doubt. I missed out on all of the smaller extruders/injectors because of my inability to react promptly, and just froze up during the sheet press contest and the CitSci shredder bidding, unable to cope with the pressure. β(edited)
Cβest la vie, I followed along and the online auction was really weird as well with the lot and batch bidding. I hope you came away from the trip with something you wanted, but industrial machinery auctions seem to require a niche skill set so no worries lol
Hey machine builders! Can you show me the nozzles of your extrusion machines? I'm currently mentoring a college senior design team that is making an extruder, and am looking for a design that allows molds and nozzles to be attached easily. Bonus points if welding is not required.