Popular and upsized arbor injector is now ready for download, mostly laser cut but you still need the full metal work capabilities as lathe, mill and CNC. https://plastic-hub.com/products/elena-xmax.html (howtos: https://library.precious-plastic.org/howto/#arbor-injection). That's an outstanding follow-up work of it's smaller successor and runs now at 50cm x 30 mm barrel. Easy to use, precise - simply spot on.
We're adding interfaces for fume extraction as next. If you need a hand with support, no Biggy!
Btw. thanks to the fool prove precision there is now also the idea of running it via gearbox motor.
If you're good at it, you can do this on the go as well :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yOqrhqlp7Q&ab_channel=PlasticHub
Input is welcome (edited)
Does anyone have an idea of what plastic works best with the Injection process? I've been having better luck with HDPE and LDPE and have a chance to grab a ton of shredded PP. Wondering if anyone had any troubles or successes with different types
PE, TPU and TPE works nice too. In the picture, the user is sealing a GPS tracker belt for hunting dogs using TPU, but needs actually active cooling since it's coming out really fluid as honey - it takes about 20 mins to properly solidify with room temperature.
Hi all! I’m having an issue with thinking how to vent a two part aluminum mold. Anyone know much about how to vent a two part mold? I’m making a disc golf mini and want to ensure I properly vent the mold where it will work properly
1:40 AM
Southpaw123
Hi all! I’m having an issue with thinking how to vent a two part aluminum mold. Anyone know much about how to vent a two part mold? I’m making a disc golf mini and want to ensure I properly vent the mold where it will work properly
I can’t seem to find anything on mold design (i did just skim the website/scroll through videos + read their descriptions, so i may have missed something!)
Email for business inquiries Robinsonfoundry@gmail.com
8:56 PM
The above foundry link is a very good set of lessons. Using 3d printing and some of his ideas for "investment methods" will be effective and inexpensive.
Has anyone tried making a frame out of wood with a metal nozzle for injection? Planning on using high temp silicone as the mold and wondering if the aluminum frame is needed
JohnDalyProgrammer
Has anyone tried making a frame out of wood with a metal nozzle for injection? Planning on using high temp silicone as the mold and wondering if the aluminum frame is needed
Silicone didn't work for me. Way too flexible and the parts were always horribly deformed even with a ridgid frame fully enclosing it. The molten plastic was just too thick and under too much pressure for a mold material that soft and flexible.
@JohnDalyProgrammer You would be better off building a extrusion mold out of steel that fits the pattern you want the frame to be. Then cutting and jointing them beam into the frame size. It will also allow you to build different sizes.
what guage wire should I be using to connect the temperature controller to the ssr? I have wires from an arduino kit or I could use 15 or 20A 10/2 12/2 wire used for houses. The preciouse plastic website and schematics dont specify from what I read
I'm guessing that's going to be less than 32 V and less than 1 amp. If so, the wires from your Arduino kit will work as long as they are durable enough for the job. Nothing wrong with using the 12/2 house wiring as long as it can be securely connected to the terminals at both ends. If you have a scap electric appliance cord laying around, that's what I'd use. It's probably between 18 and 14 gauge stranded wire and will be easier to work with.
I'm using 14 guage copper wire for the heating elements and power switch connections. (15A 14/2 wire). Only using the 18 guage wire to connect to temp controller to the ssr. I live in the U.S.A. so its 110v from outlet.
@Andrew you're good. Those components are well matched and you should never see more than 20 mA on the relay input wires. You could get away with using the pictured red jumper wires, but I wouldn't do it. They are intended only for temporary connections. The wire ends tend to break when stressed.
Does anyone have experience modifying the traditional injection moulder barrel with a nozzle like the plasticpreneur one pictured here? I can turn the nozzle on a lathe so I am mainly interested in the diameter of the opening and what mods I should make to the moulds I already have (with welded threaded fittings). I am getting an adjustable "table" to place moulds on so I have have a quick change set up. Thanks!
Yes, I would guess that the part sits inside the mold in the same direction as the picture. The reason the hooks are that specific shape is to allow the mold to separate rather than get caught, but there are a few alternative designs if you are worried about patent issues per what @Paulum pointed out.
Does anyone have any mould / mold files they would be willing to share? I was looking for carabiner and a bottle cap opener or anything really. I am having a heck of a time modifying / createing my own. I have downloaded some from PP but guess I dont know what I am doing. LOL. The rar files for the carabiner look like laser cutter files so they aare not correct for 3dprinting....
Ok, I thought someone here said they are using black pipe for the main pipe on the injector. I picked up a black pipe from Lowes hardware store and it has the seam down the middle. UUUGGGHHH - can someone let me know in the US what type of pipe you used? Thanks in advance.
Caustic
Ok, I thought someone here said they are using black pipe for the main pipe on the injector. I picked up a black pipe from Lowes hardware store and it has the seam down the middle. UUUGGGHHH - can someone let me know in the US what type of pipe you used? Thanks in advance.
Hey y'all, I am trying to make a pro and con list for an injection set up, or a compression oven set up. Are there better items suited to either of those machines? I would like to know if you can use injection molds in an oven by partially filling them up cold, heating in oven, then compressing a plunger atop the mold.
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10:50 PM
I want to make larger items with molds, but the injection is limited to 150cm^3
Drew W
I want to make larger items with molds, but the injection is limited to 150cm^3
Keep in mind that compression molding need not be a one-step process: instead of shred, the mold may be filled with a custom dimensioned billet, or sheet.
That’s true. I was also considering the different compression set ups, with one being compressed inside the oven and the other being an over under two part oven and press. I’m wondering if I get the second option if I could take a pre-warmed injection style mold as well as a piston and nozzle full of shred, then once it’s warmed take both out, put them on the press with the Already partially mold being beneath the piston and then using the jack to move the plastic from the piston into the already partially filled mold so that I can get more volume than the current injection machine
Has anyone had success with flower pots or know of someone that has, I'm looking into making an Injection molding business around them but am looking for data first.
The thing with injection molding that worries me is that you spend a lot of money for a mold and if the product from the mold doesn’t sell well it’s not good
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Jack Apotsos
Has anyone had success with flower pots or know of someone that has, I'm looking into making an Injection molding business around them but am looking for data first.
Some of my shots appear to be hollow. Has anyone experienced this, or is it just something that happens at the injection point? Mold is steel and plastic is PP.
Joblin#9607
Some of my shots appear to be hollow. Has anyone experienced this, or is it just something that happens at the injection point? Mold is steel and plastic is PP.
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