archived-machines

My biggest need is build sheets for machines that are in the American standard not metric. We cannot cheaply get metal in mm sizes.

just change the drawings and share them? I think in the forum there are already some designs around according to american standards

Hey, we almost finished a draft design for a semi- industrial version of an shredder & extrusion combo - controller. Has metering, auto-reverse (hall & rotary encoder), over-torque & over-heat protection and the usual stuff. Material bill is varies from 450 - 1250 Euro, and it's not getting better

I am tempted to ditch the PIDs for multi-channel controllers and wire all up to an RPI-7 with touch - panel. It has to be all on DIN rails which increases the bill by 30% for all components. Next step is to get some certification ... not exactly cheap for us nowadays. Any thoughts are welcome. If you know about more safety sensors or other things we forgot .... (edited)

3:01 PM

If somebody knows a cheap Arduino DIN rail PLC, would be possibly a better choice ...

hello @PP Español#7911 , can you share the circuit diagram of your industrial contoller

Hi @pipoa, please wait a week or so to have all the source files. We had a little sit back getting the right enclosure (+150 Euro) and are rather forced to make the enclosure from scratch with sheets. After that we can do the layout and from there we optimize wiring. For now I can only point to the forum where you can get updates more than here: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/shredder-and-extrusion-industrial-electronics-2/#post-148039 . Thanks. Anne

Gave +1 Rep to pipoa

@Plastic - Hub - Support thanks for the response, will wait for all the info to be posted online

Gave +1 Rep to Anne

@pipoa , any format you like ? I just got my head into "Eagle" which seems to be a good fit for all future works but it seems a little hard to read. But non the less, we're doing some more readable diagrams.

Breaking & funtastic news : we managed to unlock resources & funds to get the long outstanding CE certification; for the Arbor Injector & Portable Extrusion (see https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/). The process starts in October and we're adding quite a few changes, incl. emerging v4 details. If you have things to add, now is the time. Why is this so great ? PP can enter the free market such as Amazon, ... We also hope to finance the certification of the PP shredder

3

Well done!!

@Plastic - Hub - Support see https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/ - ERR_CONNECTION_TIMED_OUT not work site? or my connection is filed

PlasticHub

Machines - Precious Plastic Library

precious plastic machines tuturoials shredder extrusion injection bazar

@axez : no idea, seems to work in all continents; may your firewall doesnt let you through. can happen in China or similar countries

@Plastic - Hub - Support I`m in Russia this not firewall, pherhaps is my trouble connections

hey there, found a few more hopper features : 3 punch holes, a flip back joint - self-locking and the sensor is being added in the firmware. I am updating the wiki for the CAD files. It doesn't look like but this design may make you busy the whole day and details matter

Here the CAD files for the shredder hopper candidate : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/components/shredder-hopper/. Just missing a door.

PlasticHub

Shredder v3.1 Hopper - Precious Plastic Library

precious plastic machines tuturoials shredder extrusion injection bazar

11:35 PM

Last tune done after tests for the shredder - auto - reverse : https://www.instagram.com/p/B2wmaptDQZO/ | Open - Sourced, released under GPL, see https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/components/shredder-auto-reverse/ . If you have questions or you need help, ping us. There is a dedicated PP support Discord server as well. Happy to take on your input

PlasticHub

Shredder - Auto - Reverse - Precious Plastic Library

precious plastic machines tuturoials shredder extrusion injection bazar

11:36 PM

thanks to @Butte (PP Philippines) btw. for the inspirations on using sheets !

Gave +1 Rep to Butte

I am unsure exactly how this could work with my machine. When it jams, the belts slip. I use a double pole double throw 63amp switch to manually reverse it. 10usd solution.

Hey, yes, the single phase & non - vfd version is in progress but as long you can install a rotary encoder disc and an IR sensor to measure the RPM - all you need is to add relays. The firmware supports this (it's controlling relays for FWD & REV at the end just). For slipping belts I can only recommend using 2 belts as on lathes but this could get costly though, yet : with your 5HP motor this seems legit.

11:42 PM

Some lathes use even 3 belts, already at 3 -4 HP.

11:43 PM

At the end if the belt starts slipping, the rotary encoder on your pulley will tell 'jamming' ...

11:44 PM

So you should be fine with the solution at hand out of the box; you just need to wire relays - possibly expensive in your area and this kind of size

I use b type double belt, to a center axle of 1 inch round bar 1:6 reduction and then to a sprocket 15 tooth to.58 tooth.

How much amps is it drawing ? As far I recon, it's just 2 relays and you can use a low- voltage 3pos - direction switch then too btw.

Not expensive but time consuming, and while it looks interesting, i am not confident about keeping my price point low. As right now i have the lowest cost shredder locally, but only by about 200usd. Then the high speed machines (very low quality) start price.

11:48 PM

17amps. Using the manual 63 amp transfer switch.

yeah, I wouldn't worry too much in your case - with 5hp - most use cases are covered in your case. the digital circuit and extras however is around 70 Euro here.

11:49 PM

well, and around 5 hours extra labor ...

11:51 PM

I designed this rather for < 3-4 HP - that's the limit what people can effort here mostly ...

With the added power supply maybe 100usd here, but could add in a good amount of fabrication time which includes travel buying parts. Each batch of 2 shredders already has 8-10 hours driving. :(

People will enjoy it - that's for sure - using this all day long. I randomly turned - off 'auto-reverse', just to feel how it is : PITA

11:54 PM

Make it as option ! (edited)

Here ironically 5hp motors copper wound are only $264usd brand new. But a 3hp gearbox motor, with a inverter (only 3 phase avail) is about $1000usd

boah; yeah, same here : 80$ for 5Hp but 300 - 400 for the gearbox ... We pay in all 540 E for the whole standard 2.2Kw - but good brand (edited)

I only got sumitomo.and mitsubishi gear motors avail locally. 5hp is the absolute max limit on a household aircondtioner plug.

Yup, here too, 3Kw limit is the standard - contract . Ok then, I guess we can close this chapter auto-reverse, for a while

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- if you need help as said, ping me in the forum 'ppme'. I am loosing discord accounts faster than hairs - that's quite a performance :-))) (edited)

With all the power, had to use grade 5 bolts, and all sorts of engineering to keep the frame from twisting. Im at like if a part is 2mm off the chain wont fit or the belt wont fit.

@Butte (PP Philippines) : I think we should put heads together sometime on skype or so ; much to talk, much to do

I was trying to raise money to.send Juls to the Netherlands, but we was short the 2500 amount he should of had in cash

12:06 AM

For the visa

yeah, going to the Netherlands is quite an undertaking - no idea how I could do this even with enough $$

12:09 AM

tsss, 2500 for a visa - this suckers

Well here, precious Plastic Philippines is employing 2 people full time

12:10 AM

I could hire 2 more, but so.hard to find reliable workers.

congrats ! we had 2 'employees' but have to reboot all over.

12:12 AM

tell me, reliable is still ok, but capable quite another story - it takes me about 3 - 4 moths to get a novice level trainee into PP machine production and even though, another 2 months to get him on speed

Next month we will open a demo workshop based on the v3 mini plastic factory in a container

very cool ! please upload material - I have this thing called 'PP Factory' on mind since a while too. I could fill a book with that though

Shredder parts are all sourced from suppliers, then everything arrives and is bolted together. Only welding is the shredder unit.

12:15 AM

Had to re-learn stick welding

lucky you , we do all our self, drive shaft, couplings, mount, bolts, frame - we have to change this too. I hope with the plasma and a Deckel FP4A we're out of the red sometime. (edited)

Next step is to diversify out of just machine building and making plastic products also. Local economic factors basically kill all machine sales from dec 1 to feb 1.

yeah - putting enough on the side for rainy days ... tell me ..

All machine shop.lathe work i outsource. Not worth it in.house when i can get a pulley bored, key way, and 2 set screw holes tapped for 4usd and a shredder axle turned for 8usd

well, not here - you can move the the comma here to the right twice

Laser is $1.76usd min

12:21 AM

Its a 6kw trumpf. So.its really fast and precise.

i start hating you for telling me those prices

12:23 AM

not even sure anymore why staying in EU any longer - makes me sick after all

The Philippines could be killing it for manufacturing exports, except that so hard to find workets. Lots of idle people but more concerned about watching television and drinking.

sleeping people : no different from here. ok then, I guess we do this next time better in the chat channel

(edited)

12:25 AM

have a nice one

12:25 AM

time to sleep, 12 hours metal work ahead - little dumbf** me

Catch u later. 630am.here. time to start the day

ciau Butte, a pleasure - as always

Just for fun but might be interesting to see what others use

These are the MOST used tools we use all the time. Let's try this later may be for power tools and machines later :-) 1. welding and layout fixture. I did this one day but it turned out as handy tool for many situations. 2. another welding fixture, from cast iron. I found this on the scrap, easy to clean and getting the welder ground clamp is super easy. 3. machinist jacks, we use this to dial the shredder box on the frame 4. all time star - height gauge and marker. I can't think without

background : we do most parts our self, lots of welding, lots of cutting and drilling. (edited)

Hey guys, we wrote down some of our statistics in the library. We thought this might be interesting for PP machine shops. We update the pages for more teams and details the next months - since there is now quite some traffic. https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/teams/plastic-hub-catalonia/ (edited)

With v4 on the horizon we've taken a good step back and starting looking at more efficient production - also taking into account more realistic, honest, fair,... price/value ratios in the plastic recycling business. For instance you can get a full automatic extrusion based injection system, near a ton for just 2000$ whilst our PP users have to pay the same for an injector made mostly from wood - not even able to fill more than a coaster - not exactly a thing to feel good about and that may make sense only when considering the massive labor & materials involved per machine which push the prices beyond any good and we think it's time to develop a strategy & resource not just for developing/producing machines as REAL products but also help others in doing so. We think that a common pool of knowledge, protocols, designs... for machine builders could help here. I basically created similar already for our own productions and I think everyone else has their folders somewhere similar : 'research, sales, products, social, promo, forum, site, discord, suppliers,...', currently sized at 20GB, growing each month by another 5GB. There are so many systems, apps and services involved: github, fusion360, zoho crm ... name it. For a normal user this can take years to figure all out - pretty overwhelming not just for tech savvy users. So here is the idea, we create 'PP Open Factory'. This could be a simple shared folder on Google drive or I pimp up back all started pro tools back into 'one-army' or just a github repository with a more friendly front-end. I prefer always a file/folder based solution since systems die fast ... the internet veterans have been doing so since decades, called FTP, SAMBA, name it. (edited)

12:52 AM

Other than the top level folders mentioned above, here are the next candidates for being templatized:

component templates (alternatives, sources,...)
infrastructure : IT, human, machines
automation : anything related to machine shop automation, eg: drill press updates with power feed
group orders (laser, bearings, bolts & nuts, and even machines) - aka network
machine rebuilds / hacks : ordinary plastic machinery and/or brands which may be subject to hacking. there are for instance quite some designs and models out there which are way cheaper & powerful than any standard PP machine but need extra work
industry v4
certification
bounties
projects : new machine ideas, ... fun stuff

So much about 'PP Open Factory' for now - I hope this makes sense. Personally, I am rather tired building this machines like this in the garage and I'd love to get more out of it. I am not fan at all of mass production ( i am pissed already after doing one shredder assembly) and as said in the forum already : doing PP machines is extremely hard (up to 10 hours on the legs) & pretty unhealthy. Things like plasma routers , welding robots, etc.. come to mind but that my dear fellows needs a long time - to be figured out - every time for everybody. Anyhow, I cleanup our folders and share it into 'PP Factory' sometime soon. Being a legal organisation - we do also share the $$ tables which are horrifying to me too. thanks for your input in advance - tackle healthy - tackle good - tackle faster - tackle together

- at the end it comes down to the popular question : 'where you wanna be in 5 years with all that'

(edited)

2

@Deleted User this is a great initiative to share the knowledge and I'll also be glad to contribute with my small files too. Information is key .. and I like this idea of Open Factory

@Deleted User Keep me up to date, I have plenty of material I'd love to contribute.

Hey guys, 'PP Open Factory' in its structure and tools is in progress. I guess it's a few weeks away. Basically it's just a file-manager which uses Github as storage (user model & revisions). I just add a better editor for better authoring but that's it then. You guys just drag'n drop your files and somebody takes care that it goes into the right templates / structures. Well, that's the idea for now. More or less it's all template driven. (edited)

So it's a Wiki of sorts driven by markdown @Deleted User ? (edited)

12:55 AM

Also, I'm happy to help out with design stuff. I have decent skills with Fusion and experience using ANSYS, so can do fluid simulations wherever that may be useful.

1

@MicroTransactionsMatterToo : basically yes - at some point the templates become forms whereby the content go then into markdown files as well. for some time it's going to be just a big a file repository but it will be displayed with some more pretty front - end (daux.io or similar) so at any point users can download this as offline package as well. I just finished the first structures, machine hacks (drill press, mill) and a general purpose template for production units. we use this already to hand out machine setups and drawings...

@Deleted User Any news regarding that sharing thing

@MicroTransactionsMatterToo - not really - I just got the new tooling in place and have to make quite some adjustments and extensions which is going to be tested first against our own production and projects as next. I moved the beta also to January - using the v4 as another test input. But still at the end, it's nothing more than a github repo full of templates, machine documentation & extensions authored by easier editors and tools. However, I am sharing the templates in the next weeks and those are mainly to tune and stream line production. Actually quite fascinating as I noticed recently re-ranging all machines in the shop and I ordered a book about : https://www.amazon.com/-/de/gp/product/0831134763/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you know other books, ...). I also discovered that we definitely should introduce a 'green' policy for doing things in general

So this will be the rough outline for 'PP Open Factory' : https://github.com/plastic-hub/factory/blob/master/documents/Overview.md . I assume this will change quite a bit but more or less, that's it for now.

plastic-hub/factory

PP Machine Factory . Contribute to plastic-hub/factory development by creating an account on GitHub.

I just got a copy of 'Metalworking - Doing it better', from Tom Lipton - a true Guru (The guy did run the Berkeley university shop. However,it's full of tips and tricks - and to some degree - lots of game changers.

2

Instead of the outstanding PP Podcast, I thought posting at least some regular shop updates & news

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0oe2-z7ysQ&feature=youtu.be (edited)

Plastic Hub

15 November 2019

random pic - see forum : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/random-machine-shop-pictures/

nice collection of books to have

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/tips-and-tricks/what-practical-machinists-read-best-selling-machining-books-of-2019/

What Practical Machinists Read: Best-Selling Machining Books of 20...

Machining books are one of the easiest and most effective ways to broaden your knowledge and stay up to date. Here are the 10 most popular books of 2019.

Hello fellow humans, Can anyone recommend the best desktop injection machine setup/design? Or best desktop injection machine for sale? My molds would be a max of 15cm x 15cm x 1cm. Thanks again for being you!

@Zero Plastics Australia - i guess you already had a look at : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/arbor-injection-press/ (near perfect - but pretty hard to make it good without proper tools) | https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/injection/. There are some alternatives listed each. For 15x15x1 cm I am afraid you want the arbor to archive best quality. There is also a design I didn't add yet which is using an ACME thread and a nut - similar to a leadscrew on a CNC. Tests showed that it can be good and very easy/cheap to make. However, please check : https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/?category=injection (i guess you did already). There is btw. no real 'best', from what I see each product wants a certain setup and workflow.

@Zero Plastics Australia - when it comes to injection, often it's good to consider the extruder, check @Butte (PP Philippines)'s post in #deleted-channel . so yeah, the extruder is basically an injector - plus you can speed up things a lot, output quality wise as well because the extruder melts the plastic way better than any injector (needs long time).

@Skywalker firstly thank you for your time and help with this. Perfect a arbor looks like the thing for me. I'll have to do a little more research on this but thank you for helping me this path.

@Zero Plastics Australia

no biggy - that reminds to write a buying guide for the injection. there are some things users should be aware of before buying :
ask the vendor whether the plunger & barrel material is slightly different
make sure the hopper / feed system fits your project (s)
make sure that you can actually see what's happening whilst interacting with the business end (lever) - might seem unimportant but it turned out gold
for expensive units, make sure you can replace parts on your own - wherever possible, won't apply that much for full metal units; those last forever
maintenance procedure, rust protection,...
where and how to install fume extractors
as often with hardware, better buy the double of what you need

if there is anything else, let me know

(edited)

it didn't look like this when it left the shop

, funny users

Thank you for your help this is what I would need. I'll look into this more after Xmas. What metal is the best for NOT sticking to plastic? Thanks Adz.

sooner imgoing to build my own design extruder a mini machine to reduce plastic watse like that.

If you would want a screw injection machine you can just buy a second hand Arburg for less than 1-2k€. Just mixes the plastic so well that it looses its visual quality as recycled material.

@luke ofc not on your local machine dealer, they want to make money too

Check ebay, craigslist or other second hand plattforms. I guess it might work with older machines, but i wouldn't try to throw non-filtered plastic into a recent 20k€ machine... (edited)

hey there, any ideas how to document welds in open source machinery ? We use primarily Fusion360 since it's free and easy and the problem in their drawing module is the absence of ISO weld symbols . They have other symbols I could use and explain in a legend but thats also not perfect or ideal ... The other idea is to create the shapes/objects representing the weld beads ....

having weld beads as objects is nice because you could animate it and also document the order of welds

I was looking at thhis pre release instructable

3:29 AM

it has occourred to me that maybe teflon and baking sheet is not the idel material for production purposes.

based on recent experiences and I am hypothisizing here (scientific method) The following experiment I will conduct: Question: Is there a better way to do this in a production manner with low cost? Background Research: Review the instructable "Make a raincoat with plastic bags" Hypothesis: Using very thin galvanized steel in place of the teflon sheet during ironing will result in a better fused product, based on past experience with galvanized steel sheet compression molds. Experiment: Experimental Procedure: Using the instructable as a base for the experiment, substitute very thin galvanized sheet metal in place of parchment paper or teflon release paper Materials List: Plastic for recycling and Galvanized sheet. Local cost is 7USD for a 4x8 foot sheet. We already have a new iron and plastic in the shop. Conduct the experiment. Analyze Data and Draw a Conclusion Communicate Results

New toy just arrived this afternoon. Still holiday here, so not in the production shop to try the ironing experiment yet. However a hydraulic log splitter just showed up in my FB marketplace feed. less than 200 USD used from Australia. Lots of ideas to use it. probably a compression molder

Will someone PLEASE help me out here!! Im finding it impossible to get a 1-2hp motor with a gearbox for less that 500 euro. Im trying to build the shredder for a local community group as a way to encourage recycling but it seems impossible.

2:43 AM

I am an underpaid youth worker and cant afford to splash out

belt and pulley speed reduction

3:20 AM

saw this in the pre-release spec sheet. it is very wrong...

1

3:21 AM

32 amps at 400v comes out to 12kw not 1.5

3

2250 :/

@Butte (PP Philippines): that isn't released yet as you say

@quinsworth - 500 euro should give you a decent motor and gearbox, new , min. 2-3 kw as needed for v3 and a 1:30 reducer, in the EU at least. lower quality motors with similar specs are around 450e

wow, that's far too expensive for me. I could never justify that kind of expense unless it was going to earn at least its own value. Thanks for the heads up

well, second hand - ideally per kg, you may get it for the half too

the reducers in the EU are kind of classified as 70, 90 & '110' - ish, with different layouts. the type one (90ish) above seems near perfect since you can run multiple machines, up to 3 if you like. this saves you 2 or 3 times motor drive systems which often get to 1000$ new, each. (edited)

Hi, is 'shredder & extrusion pro' capable to run on 220V ? 400V would narrow the possible audience significantly and all what could be done left is to develop a version 3.5 ( shredder & injection). We're still looking desperately for a dual shredder candidate. I was thinking to make the mobile knifes just smaller and the entry bigger since most folks we know and enountered shred mostly small stuff only but currently at high energy consumption... Thanks in advance.

1

Hi to all and nice to meet you!

I downloaded .zip file from PP site but laser measurements are not in mm and it also seems not in scale 1:1. Do you know where I can get laser files with mm? I checked on internet for cutting offer and all factories require pieces using mm and scale 1:1. Thanks in advance and have a good day. Ciao! (edited)

@Nonnetti Hi & welcome ! How do you come to this conclusion ? The dxf (don't use the dwg) files are correct; except you may need the upgrade for a 32mm hexbar in case you need a robust machine ... (edited)

whre is the v4 at?

https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/603872351251202059/664021643819220999

Hello Everyone

11:18 PM

can anyone share with me, link to ebay / shop where i can buy heaters for extrusion machine, i have found lots of them on ebay / aliexpress but not sure which one is good / tested

11:18 PM

thank you in advance

The v4 shredder pro files mention the material of lasercut parts to be "Hardened Steel" but exactly what kind it should be? Does anyone have any idea?

@sharma.sagar94 4140 steel plate

@Butte (PP Philippines) and should I harden it after the lasercutting or it comes pre hardened?

@Butte (PP Philippines) - But somewhere in the description video or manual there is mentioned information that is should be hardox steel - here look: "All the laser cut parts are made with mild steel. They don’t require a specific material. However, we used wear-resistant steel (Hardox 400) for the blades and fixed blades (not the spacers), to make them more durable." so what is the final statement?

@🤙v4-team Did you tested that new shredder kit with stainless steel blades and fixed blades? Is stainless steel will be enough for such elements?

I understand why you used hardox steel - but maybe you tested the configuration with stainless steel ?

And also I have question regarding spur gears... I did not understand that correctly probably... you bought that specific spur gears or it is / can be made by the turner? From what kind of material are those spur gears ?

and one more question

DIN 1804 M50x1,5 Slotted round nut is that part which can be bought or this also must be done by turner?

DIN 1804 M50x1,5 - ok I found this part where I can buy it....

Quick heads up to the material questions: @sharma.sagar94 @Jacek @Butte (PP Philippines) We use in our build pre hardened steel - in our case its sold under the trade name "Hardox 400". Was our pick because it was available at our main lasercut supplier Tailorsteel 247. If you can not access pre hardened steel you can switch to mild steel (as hard as you can possible get) too - and optionally heat treat it afterwards if you can/have access to it. Do not use stainless steel for the shredder blades if you dont have a very special use case (like high exposure to salt water environment or cooling during shredding) Normal Stainless Steel is NOT harder than mild steel (S235JR)!

11:16 AM

As harder the blades are, as less likely they will wear out.

11:18 AM

@Jacek You can purchase spur gear as standard parts from your local machine parts supplier. You might need add the grooves for keyways in a shop which has the tools for it.

1

@Fritz @easymoulds The hardox steel parts are mentioned clearly in the lasercut folder, but what about the other parts that are just labelled as steel in the lasercut folder as well as drawing table

@sharma.sagar94 hardened steel is recommended for blades and fixed blades (parts that will suffer wear), but mild steel can be used too as @Fritz @easymoulds said. For the other parts you can use any steel.

And for the last question about the DIN 1804 M50x1,5 : yes, this is standard nuts that we recomand to buy. You can probably build them, but they should be easy to supply (Fabory can be an supplier example).

2:39 PM

@Nonnetti can you show an example of a file not in mm, they should be but maybe there is a mistake.

thank you for the answers

Hello.. I came from Indonesia I have a lot of questions.. which is intend for the green product process & production.. Somebody can help me here? Thanks

why not to use stainless steel for blades and fixed blades as I have great access to that material in my area?

Hi Jacek, I´ve seen many people complaining that stainless steel wears out quickly

10:00 PM

that´s why they used hardox steel which has high abrasive resistance

10:05 PM

So I downloaded new Shredder PRO files I sent out the laser cutting files to the workshop and they replied what is the number of each part I need to cut, I searched everywhere but I wasn´t able to find any oveview where I would see numbers of the parts I need to get cut on laser, can someone help me with this issue? When you download standart V2.1 shredder there is pdf file with overview of the parts and numbers of each parts, also each dxf file has the number of parts in the name of the file. Is there some overview of the laser cutting parts of the Shredder pro?

Maybe it is not clear enough...

but you can check in the assembly drawings how many parts you need

Hello All, i prepare to build Extruder Pro, and have short question, is here someone from Europe from who i can buy screw for pro version ?

I downloaded the shredder kit from website and the file you just shared wasn´t there - this is all I need thank you so much for your help, so this one should be in the shredder file when you download?

ok I downloaed the whole kit and the file is there, but its not there when you dwonload just the files for the shredder, this one should be fixed right?

@Petr Hlinka you will find in the name of each file the quantity to cut for each part (_QTY-XX). This is the minimum part to order, it might be smart to order few spare for some (blades, spacers...). For DXF, you also have thickness in the file name (not needed for step obviously). But as well you can double check with assembly drawings (all the .00) drawings. (edited)

2:35 PM

Can you sent a list of what you have when you download only shredder or the full one ? They should be the same, so there might be a mistake.

1

5:43 PM

Lasering today. Spent last night nesting Pro shredder parts for cut.

@CitSciWorkshop can you give what sheet size did you need?

6:17 PM

@CitSciWorkshop thickness wise

We get cut 48x96" down to 4" sq. sheets. Waiting on AR steel quotes today. Imperial gauge to metric alignments. 1/4", 3/16", 0.120", 20g, 14g and 9g

None of this makes any sense to me, metric units here

Those are Imperial gauges that align with the metric equivalents in the PP files.

6:22 PM

We have the opposite problem here, metric sheet is hard to find and costly vs. US equivalents.

I was hoping you have a thickness wise table of how much sheet of a thickness will someone need Example: hardox 2.5 mm - X mm by Y mm Hardox 6 mm -....

Essentially the cheapest way to buy your metal is as close to a full standard sheet as possible, with fewest sizing cuts made by your supplier. Our sheets are ~1300mm sq.

But the shredder pro needs sheets of 5-6 different thicknesses

6:25 PM

Thats too much spare material

6:25 PM

I don't have my own lasercutting workshop

We best multiple sets on single sheets.

6:26 PM

Nest*

6:26 PM

And yes, you have to cut multiple thicknesses and bundle them into sets.

6:28 PM

Your laser company might be able to acquire material for you, but they will likely mark it up. If you provide it, they might charge just for time and consumables but I would not assume that. (edited)

Ok thanks

This is why I thought to dedicate a laser to PP. Everyone has to stand in line to get their parts even as a builder. So one laser dedicated to PP parts means everyone gets optimized parts and shares the ability to dilute the cost of material by being able to order volume.

Hey everybody! If one of you can or have a contact to buil the V4 machine it will wonderful :) !! We are making a mix workspace in Paris and we really need an extrusion and a shredder! Thank's.

Hi All,

10:22 PM

i have short question, how many W should have one single heater in extrusion machine?

ok, i found it in documentation

@Yann If I download the whole kit in the shredder 2D blueprints there are 78 pdf files, if I download just the shredder kit there are just 73 pdf files - box assembly, and shafts assembly files are missing not sure what else is missing too

I have another technical question, I can probably figure out how to assemble the shredder box by using the pdf files with 2D blueprints, but if I want to assemble the frame according to the PP plans I have to open the 3D files in solidworks? Or how else I can figure out how to cut the metal for the frame? - I found the assembly plans for shredder fram already

so many files ... sorry (edited)

11:43 PM

if I look into sheetpress bluepritns there are pdf available for the frame assembly

I also checked the basic version of the shredder and there are no files for laser cutting version v2.1 there is just version 2

@🤙v4-team is there a alternative to hardox steel which is equally wear resistant, because hardox is hard to get in india and it doesn't come in 2.5 mm size

@Petr Hlinka Hi. There is only one official version of version 2. Version 2.1 is a version that I have in the bazaar adjusting the pieces. in the official version there are plenty of pieces

3:22 PM

It is not to save costs, but some buyers insist on assembling all the parts, so the mismatches are great ....

3:25 PM

@Huberto W = cuchillas?

@PPCapiSpain W - mean power of the heater, for exampe 150W, 380W, in PRO according to documentation we have 350W and 150W

Anybody make shredder peace’s recycling cans ( aluminium) ?? (edited)

@Petr Hlinka drawing 1410.01 will gives you the dimension of the frame (not for beam by beam though, but it can be easily figure out I guess).

7:42 PM

@sharma.sagar94 any wear resistant steel will do the job. As well for spacer, hardox might be optional, so you can order the 2,5 spacer in mild steel.

Hi All, i start to build sheetpress and compresion in one machine

and would like to ask you if you see any problems during creation or use ? In short i will try to build "hand made" owen, bigger. At the moment as see two problem/disadvantages. 1) It would be difficult to check temperature of the plate 2) If i would like to use it to compress i will have to spend more time and energy to heat bigger space/capacity

What do you think ? (edited)

@Huberto do you mind elaborating on the construction? Do you have a 3D model? I don't think I understand the idea or the rationale behind it. As far as I understand those 2 machines work on different principle - compression uses convection while sheetpress uses heated plate for heat conduction.

@Huberto Building the compression oven is much easier than making the sheet press. I would recommend making a small press underneath an unmodified oven to reduce your production time. This can be used with simple molds to make small sheets.

@So - it might work, however aluminium cans can be quite thin, so the chances are high they will go in between the blades and jam the shredder (in a production use). But might work if you align the blades really well.

Hi, Does anybody know have the V4 shredder works with bags??

@Kattapa-JU you mean shredding foils?

no please, plastic bags

10:07 AM

the V3 shredder was not suited for that task as the bags usually just turned with it.

10:08 AM

so wondering how the V4 works, since plastic bags are a major problem here (Ghana)

@Arseniy (PL) i started think about that 2 day ago so i don't have yet 3D model, but it will be something similar to that what Tom K wrote, because compression is also small version of Sheet press, but you will be able to make at most 40x40cm sheet. What i would like to is "enclose" sheet press in bigger oven

so i will try to use plate/table from SheetPress but without heaters in plate but heaters from oven, i assume that i will be able to heat plate and make Sheet and also moulding things in same machine

@Huberto agree that a sheetpress could be viewed as a compression machine with a large flat mould. But to me it results in an opposite conclusion - why not build a press that (because of it's size) can accept any mould with heaters in it - be it a large flat one or smaller 3D one

11:12 AM

to me building a large owen (= using convection instead of direct heat transfer) feels very inefficient and wasteful. But that's just my opinion obv. (edited)

@Kattapa-JU we consider plastic bag in the "foil" category, and unfortunately due to their very thin characteristics they are not really shredded. Best case they are just slightly teared appart, worst case they go in between the blades and spacers... We didn't really did proper testing, but I would say it doesn't work. But plastic bags is already so thin that you could potentially put them as they are in the machines (apart extruder thought).

hmm, has anybody tried preprocessing foils to make them stiffer? not sure about exact process to achieve this but if it's possible that would maybe solve the shredding problem (I was thinking about frozen clothes becoming so stiff it's possible to crack them. Obviosly freezing wouldn't work on PET foils but maybe there is another process...)

11:19 AM

maybe cold-pressing pet bags into somewhat dense bricks before shredding could work...

Ive seen people putting them into the oven for a while (not sure what temperature) and then create a kind of dough which you can mold into something else, like a small sheet or other product

Thank you for your answer. Interesting point @Yann. They could be passed through the extruder and melting, and @Arseniy (PL) if needed they could be shredded into flakes from there. thoughts?

@Kattapa-JU no extruder need small flakes to process plastic. But you could potentially melt and compress (compress oven or sheet press) or inject plastic bags.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BunsTLwnuq0/?igshid=sny7r8qum6j9

@Arseniy (PL) PET will be hard to process afterward (see general PET discussions). But a lot of plastic bags are actually LDPE, which unfortunately is still not brittle even at frozen temperature.

@Carolina thanks, that's very interesting!

11:37 AM

@Yann right, thx for the reminder about LDPE, I was under false assumption the majority of bags is PET

@Arseniy (PL) "using convection instead of direct heat transfer feels very inefficient and wasteful" - yes, i have same doubts but

using heating plate to moulding something what is high (for example vase

you will have to heat plastic from the bottom to top what whould be also not efficient, then convection is better solution I think that key is in oven isolation, then it could be efficient

Will try and share with you my findings

The oven process its shown here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LV6Zp9i0mOc But you can also experiment and find other ways that you can do it more efficiently (edited)

davehakkens

Create marble from plastic bags #preciousplastic

11:40 AM

Also https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp4vmfVlm2k is a good way to use plastic bags

davehakkens

Make a durable tote bag from shitty plastic bags #preciousplastic

@Huberto hmm how would a mould for a high vase for a compression machine look like? It has to be quite different than a mould for an injection, right? As far as I understand, for compression plastic is not premelted?

@Carolina That is a great method but thinking of maximizing production the process is slow. the sheetpress, as was earlier mentioned, may allow for more quantity and faster

did anybody try to use rollers to produce flat sheets instead of sheetpress?

11:47 AM

continously running rollers (assuming unlimited plastic on the supply/feed side) could allow for very high throughput (edited)

hmm not sure, but what about cooling process

that's how flat metal sheets are produced

and question if it would be possible to create flat surface with rollers

11:49 AM

yes, but metal is less "elastic"

actaully I think rollers will produce more uniform surface thickness since they are precisely spaced apart. (I'm thinking two rollers - bottom and top one) (edited)

@Kattapa-JU Using plastic bags to replace the use of fabric I think it might allow you to have a bigger production than meting them (during the melting process they shrink quite a lot, which makes it slower) BUT you also need to know how to sew and make moulds for it (bags, wallets, raincoats, backpacks, caps) https://www.instagram.com/p/Brp8VAPHwKW/?igshid=u6s8mynhy4va (edited)

and on the outfeed side there could be a conveyor or smthng

hmm "I'm thinking two rollers - bottom and top one" not sure if it will work, you will have to heat plastic to mould it then format with rollers and quickly cool a little to keep the shap

11:52 AM

but of course it could be check

what process would allow for more productivity and less waste, the method used in the speaker videos or the fabric method to make the hat?

@Kattapa-JU I would say with both processes you’ll get offcuts but also in both cases you can reuse them, on the speaker method you’ll get hard plastic offcuts which you can shred and re melt them and with the fabric method you can manage to make patterns and iron them together again in a nice way:)

So there are two ways to deal with plastic bags, that we have discussed. So what would happen if bags, or pieces of bags went into the extruder? would it not heat it up and make it soft like the speaker method?

hello

3:39 PM

can i ask someone here about making 3dprint filament, especially on using micocontroler

@juffrei Honestly it depends on what you want to do. If you want to print out of recycled plastic, it's easier to build a printer that runs with flakes/pellets than making 1,75mm filament. (Which need tight precision) However, if you want to sell filament, the question is different. I would suggest buying some kind of filament maker, and seeing if you can put flakes in it. (You could also try to make your own machine, but it will take time before you have "sellable" results) (edited)

The most difficult thing is to achieve a constant diameter of the extruded filament. If you end up with too big tolerances, you will eventually clog your printer nozzle.

1

wow thanks, im not going to sell the fillament first, what i concern is based on making 3dprinter filament by dave, that he use microcontroller, that use Ramps 1,4 as arduino shield, and he stated that he also using LCD screen. so i need both of this item?

3:46 PM

or only the one with lcd

Could you show us what you mean by "by dave", I'm not sure I understand what you mean (edited)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j85TPjYRezI

davehakkens

Precious Plastic - 3D printer Filament maker

1

3:50 PM

i already done making the extrussion machine

3:51 PM

rn my problem is the controller haha

3:52 PM

Well, this video is outdated, but if you plan to doing exactly this prototype (be careful, it has a lot of issues as there's no control of extracted diameter), yes you can built the thing with these components :

A Ramps Kit, with the motors controllers
An Arduino Mega adapted to the ramps kit
A bunch of steppers motors.
Optionnally, a led screen with buttons to control everything Basically what the microcontroler does is just controlling the motors, the ones that are rolling the yellow cylinders and the one rolling the filament spool

(edited)

3:56 PM

(By microcontroler we are refering to an arduino, the ramps kit is just an additionnal shield on top of it)

(be careful, it has a lot of issues as there's no control of extracted diameter) << so the result actually is not very good?

I don't know much about this particular project of Dave, but apparently it doesn't control the flow of the extruder. Like @bloftdesignlab said, the key is having a constant (1,75 or 2,85mm) diameter of the filament, otherwise the 3D printer won't run fine. The more it's unprecise, the more you risk clogging your printer and diminish the print quality

4:00 PM

It's just a matter of having a sensor that can mesure the extruded diameter and regulate the extruder flow. I recommend watching other "DIY" filament maker to see how it's made. (I think the PP extruder can still be used to make the "basic shape" tho)

4:01 PM

[If I had this project, I would use the PP extruder to make "pellets" (small cylinder of plastics, instead of rough flakes), and then put it in another, more precise machine. Usually, filament makers have issues with big rough flakes] (edited)

ah nvm, ic ic

4:04 PM

Thanks leyy

4:04 PM

[If I had this project, I would use the PP extruder to make "pellets" << i try to doing this

4:05 PM

so my machine have 2 extruder, the first extruders is to making pellets

4:06 PM

@juffrei I think the PP extruder is well suited for making filament, but it is only one part of filament making. You also need to cool the extruded filemant and foremost it needs to be streched to a contolled diameter. You will need to have a method of sensing the diameter as it passes the sensor. Some are doing this with a laser sensor, other mechanically. This data is the fed to a microcontroller that drives the streching pulley. It is rather hard to get usable filament. Thats why the good machines costs a fortune. But if you want to explore the path, I'd suggest to search on google for open source filament extruders. There are some with a price tag around $1000, some are even cheaper.

@bloftdesignlab Please would wish to learn more about extruding filament. Please inbox me I have an idea

@bloftdesignlab a i have spend alot thoo haha, around $7k of my saving usedd :3 (edited)

open source pelletizer & infos on filament as well ongoing community effords : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/pelletizer/ - the project was a nice catch of @Butte (PP Philippines) btw. (edited)

Hi guys has anyone looked at modifying the shredder v3 to shredder pro? i am going to keep my same motor (2.2 kw) and control just make new shredder box with teeth.

@mechanic yeah playing around with scaling the Pro box to ~v2.1 box size with the v4 standards like hardened steel and optimized blades.

1

@CitSciWorkshop are u planning to keep one axis? With the v4 blades?

nope, double axis (edited)

11:11 PM

v4 Pro style, smaller 2.1 ~ish size box.

1

For keeping the same motor, be careful about gear box, double axis shredder run slower (around 20rpm, compare to the 80rpm than the one before). 2.2kW might be enough, we made our first test with a 2.2kw on the shredder pro (reduce to 18rpm) and it was working well for most of the case.

@Yann what was the issue with the motor running faster?

@Arseniy (PL) too low torque for the motor + higher impact on the shredder resulting in higher chance to break something.

@CitSciWorkshop Great lets collaborate

@mechanic awesome, happy to!

hi, the v3 extruder specs says : min. 1.5kw at 380V . Are you sure about ? Because we ship it since long with 220V / 3P via VFD - 0.75 Kw | 1:30 and the results are more than fine, with 1:3 compression

Just saying because this could scare folks - especially since 380V isn't available to many (edited)

Hi everyone! Just a little question. Somebody know the thickness barrel injection machine? Thanks

Hey @Raiben, inner diameter = 25 mm, outer diameter = 35 mm . that's what most metal suppliers have on stock in Spain.

So 2mm thickness?

ahm, 35 - 25 = 10, so it's 5mm because it's mostly round

6:40 PM

plunger is 25 mm diameter but you need to cut down often around 0.15mm. ask a taller to make you one - it's crazy to make this with sand paper,

6:42 PM

@Raiben if you like we send you just something ! (is it you 'menorplastic' ? )

I won't cut it just buy

6:48 PM

Thanks

@CitSciWorkshop do you want to start a project space somewhere and share a plan we can break up the work into sections and tackle it as a group with anyone else who is interested?

Sure, let's make a pocket channel Give me a moment, I can make it happen.

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8:32 PM

@mechanic https://discord.gg/TbAU2M

the sheetpress and the cooling press have the same frame or not? I cannot oped .cad and there are no pdf plans for cooling press

Hiya, does anyone have any experience with building PP machines to standards? ISO or other. Ta.

@VivMcDaugherty#0171 hi, ISO is an organization that publishes standards. There are standards for everything. Since you didn't specify the standard you are interested in, I suspect you might be instead interested in certification? (edited)

hi all, does anyone know if the shredder will work with soft plastics, plastic bags, polypropylene wrappings ect?

"unfortunately due to their very thin characteristics they are not really shredded. Best case they are just slightly teared appart, worst case they go in between the blades and spacers... We didn't really did proper testing, but I would say it doesn't work. But plastic bags is already so thin that you could potentially put them as they are in the machines (apart extruder thought)." - From @/LaGrenouille, last sunday.

@Arseniy (PL) : just being curious, isn´t that we would only certify machines in the EU for CE but for anywhere else we would have to apply also for ISO certification (9001:xxxx, 14000:xxxx) ? If so, I doubt that any PP 'machine builder' could afford nor could comply with those standards. I just bought the 9001:2015 and it seems I would have to change production and service from ground up. In this case the price of the machines would reflect this also, eg: 200 % more. It's btw. odd that we went from a 180E shredder to a v4 extruder for 6000e

I am honestly lost about what happened

(edited)

12:59 PM

So yeah, a little guidance about all this and where the PP is sailing would be very welcome

@Deleted User well, you see, that very much depends on your goal. Nobody needs any certification to run small workspace using PP machines to recycle local waste. On the other hand, if you want to build a factory which produces industrial machinery for institutionalized clients you very much expected to have 9001 cert

yup, that's there we want to be

out of the garage, with a very good price/value ratio

hi! I have a problem. I can't download starter kits for shredder or other. When i click to button open this page

@EpikYra maybe this post should rather be moved to the #deleted-channel channel ?

1

If you can send here a drawing of a new shredder 2.0

@Deleted User I don't think your case is common in PP community then, I believe majority here is very far away from industrial scale both in plans and practically ;)

@EpikYra https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-shredder/releases/latest/download/starterkit-shredder.zip

1

@Deleted User not that I think there is anything wrong with it

@Arseniy (PL) : yeah, trends show we have now way more quality clientel (schools, small - enterprise) in the door, far from what PP had on mind in the beginning. Not sure though how to deal with all that. For now, we roll out a new factory and learn 9001:2015 | 14000:xxxx inside out

@Deleted User that's great!

yeah, and lots of headache

expectations are high

1:18 PM

but hey, there is good in it, we started developing at least as system to track production , service, .... aka 'PP Open Factory', we're getting there

1

Well, can you please write down notes and important points about this process so others would have it a bit better if they choose to follow that path

yeah; there will be even a kinda programming language in place (https://github.com/plastic-hub/lang/blob/master/natives.md), with that we document all in https://github.com/plastic-hub/factory/blob/master/templates/part.md and stuff like that - actually fun

Привет!

6:28 PM

есть Русские?

Hi, I havent found a reference to this issue, but when downloading the Shredder Pro kit and oppening the Assembly.SLDASM file it pops up with several errors of missing files. Some can be found by relinking the path, but some seem to be completely missing

@Vlas #🍞russia

@cubyoner maybe write it in the #deleted-channel channel

(edited)

PET Grinder update : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElOnSA7pS18&feature=youtu.be

Plastic Hub

Pet grinder hack

@Deleted User This is very nice! Did you mention something about a 24VDC motor for this grinder? And how do you rate the needed power output of the motor? Since you told that it is running on 800rpm, I assume that the power can be lower that in the v3 shredder motor?

2:23 PM

This is my pellet extruder under development. It is happy with standard pellet size.

1

2

2:23 PM

@bloftdesignlab : not sure about the 24v though; I could only guess that's getting insane hot then, no idea; @3dSeed said 24V

Happy to hear about your progress btw. ! What's the material you wanna print ? The work here is rather about PET and of course to have something to add to v3

Next time I check the amps and torque needed but I'd say any 220V - 1500RPM reduced down to the half will do.

2:33 PM

sorry btw for not responding on the 3dprint channel, fully forget it

I'll be back, soonish

@Deleted User Yeah, you're right

I mixed up you guys. I don't restrict the material to be something specific, I'll try to come up with a solution that fits for the majority of plastics. Maybe even clay. But, for starters I'm going to use commercially available recycled & repelletized HDPE, LDPE & PP. PET is on my list too, but in Finland it will be a little difficult to get large amounts of PET. Our bottle recycling system works quite well, but I know this material is one of the most dumped material in the world.

wow, respect - let us know if you need help, @3dSeed is your 3d print guru

@Deleted User & @3dSeed thanks! I'll keep you updated. You're doing a great job with the grinder. I will start to build it once I've had the chance to test the extruder through and through.

Pricing hex bar stock today.

@Deleted User Nice job! How loud is it?

pretty loud

it makes chop chop chop chop chop chop

6:33 PM

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto - gonna make another video - this time without the forgotten M8 nut inside, ruining the assembly just before the video from today, lol

In documentation of the shredder it is said, that you should not put your hands in the moving pieces. That's a good advice. But I'm missing for security reasins such an advice directly on the machine such this one: http://www.safetylabelsolutions.com/Warning--Crush-Hazard--Hands-in-Gear_p_340.html. Another Idea complementary could be to put a cover on top of the shredder. When it is opened, main electricity is interruped and the blades should stop. And/Or, you could also grow up the container on top of the shredder such as it would be impossible to reach the rotating blades with the hand.

Warning - Crush Hazard - Hands in Gear

6:35 PM

Same for any hot surfaces: https://www.safetysign.com/products/11205/warning-hot-surface-sign

Warning Hot Surface Sign I5743

Remind workers to avoid contact with hot surfaces, failure to follow instructions may cause burn injuries. Order your sign today.

@alexak - yeah, all that sensory has been implemented already (https://github.com/plastic-hub/firmware/tree/master/shredder-extrusion#behaviours), there are a couple to come : enclosure / service door open, etc ... (edited)

That's a good idea

With the displays the user could be at least be adverted and the buildes should be protected legaly. Laws are very strict in Germany (and I suppose in other countries as well..)

6:46 PM

Cool the arduino controlling system

Hello. Somebody can tell me where is possible to download the Shredder Pro version to build it? Thanks

@@Pedro S In the download kit, build -shredder pro. Go to precious plastic.com

Thanks Landry, but on the PartCommunitu isnt possible to donwload, and on the PreciousPlastic website i didnt found a donwload link for the cad file

1:24 AM

@Landry Thanks Landry, but on the PartCommunitu isnt possible to donwload, and on the PreciousPlastic website i didnt found a donwload link for the cad file

1:26 AM

Landry Thanks. The website is different and on the old it could be possible to donwload from each machine section, but now i understand, there is a place with all of the files. Thanks a lot.

@Pedro S Starterkit Shredder Workspace Direct download: https://cutt.ly/starterkit-shredder (417MB) There you can find the the files to build it...

Hey everyone - have been there specific calculations behind the v4 extrusion axial load bearing block ? Just asking because if it's not really 100% necessary, we'd look for an alternative design... Especially because we're looking now at 1-3 days precision machining and an extra material bill of 300 Euro or so ... However, I could imagine that we could keep using the reducer bearing(s) but place another thrust bearing in place just. In recent modern reducers in the higher price segment, those bearings do indeed have quite some space for axial load. Past experience showed that our previous screw designs using a flight width of 22mm and a usable length of 65+cm (as used now in v4) had no trouble with a 800W-3P motor and using it's bearing as rest - bearing inspection also confirmed that - we didn't put a filter in place btw. From what I see there is basically just a 20% increase of plastic volume to be moved though that screw and there are only a few products/applications which need to extrude at higher speeds... I have excessive extrusion screw formulas but I wanted to bump here first before doing the entire math

Any thoughts ( @Peter-Bas ) ? (edited)

Yeah, I also heard that when filling up larger molds there is actually not that much compression needed or desired, and there are different screws for that (mixing segments) which also would lower the energy bill and overhead btw. Anyway, I guess I have a walk to nearby injection companies

(edited)

Is there a consensus on Shredder box steel type? We've used stainless for box sides as a standard, and are updating our blades to use the AR steels now. But I wonder if I should likely keep using stainless for the boxes for atmospheric protection, vs. coating and protecting a hot-rolled carbon steel.

Our first batch of injection moulded parts. We designed and manufactured the parts and moulds in house and used HDPE collected at our site and our @plasticpreneur-Flo injection machine to produce these finger combs for sale through barber shops. Follow our instagram channel for updates http://www.instagram.com/themakerspace (edited)

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Welcome back to Instagram. Sign in to check out what your friends, family & interests have been capturing & sharing around the world.

3

@mechanic sorry, on the first picture, is it all flashing? Do all your items come out like that?

@🤙v4-team , hey there. sorry but folks keep asking us about v4 machine specs. I am not sure it's a bug in academy nor those numbers are just ballpark numbers , nor that you actually tried 220V engines, for instance, v3 extruder needs now 6x times more than before, so - there is a little confusion now

Anyways, v4 extruder : I am confident this works with 2.0 - 3Kw - 220V !? v4 shredder :I am confident this works with 3- 4 Kw - 220V !? thanks in advance (edited)

11:14 AM

because, if we can't agree on the specs, I would point them to the wiki instead and that's causing more confusion though ...

How can you be confident without trying? This is the specs we worked with and know for sure it works. We might add more options in the future, but not without proper testing. (edited)

confident because of observation and I'd say we have a sort of baseline also with own & other / similar machines on the market. So, no one tried 220V yet ?

11:24 AM

mh, but thanks - I will risk it

I guess the high extruder specs are because of certain products as larger beams or bricks though

11:26 AM

btw. 220V would open it to ten folds of more users

@Deleted User what type of resolution are you getting from your printer?

I dunno exactly - this is more @3dSeed's terrain - I can only judge from what I've seen so far : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbxNa3WLpjA. To me, this is more than enough to print lots of stuff for the workshop ... Later this spring we try printing it with larger diameters ...

very blobby at the moment the layers a not fully formed I get a half layer and then a runny blob and then it completes the layer and then it does the same on the next layer

yeah - is it still PET we're talking about ? Anyways, I finish the grinder optimization (coming great so far, 400W motor via belt, particle size down now to 0.7

this weekend and @3dSeed does some bundles - along with opensource options. I know it took him ages to tune the printing but no worry, the upcoming kits will help you with that. It's around the corner now

(edited)

@protohub are you 3d printing PET?

@Deleted User sorry I forgot to mention hdpe

mh, I didn't hear anything good about printing HDPE; @DisruptivelyUseful prints PP since a while: https://www.trashprinter.org/ (edited)

confident because of observation and I'd say we have a sort of baseline also with own & other / similar machines on the market. So, no one tried 220V yet ?

@Deleted User we have been running 2.2kw 220v shredder at 40:1 gearbox on shredder v3, it can eat about 4 PET bottle tops before the overload turns it off, so it will definitely work for softer plastic at slowe speed.

yeah but that's for a shredder with the cutting edge way to far from the shaft

12:40 PM

but yeah, that's right

12:41 PM

morrentradings shredder wants just 1.1Kw, and it eats nearly everything https://www.morrentrading.com/shredder-s/basis-shredderblok-am2018-200

hello hello, new here! And sorry to interrupt the conversation... I'm wondering who I can talk to about getting Precious Plastics machines built and set up in a new london makerspace? Currently in the fortunate position with funding to spend.. any help would be much appreciated!

@Hayley try posting in the united kingdom channel you'll have better luck there

1

@protohub , @3d-seed - for PP meets 3Dprint related discussions and projects, please join a dedicated Discord server here : https://discord.gg/j7K7n9e. There are also other projects receiving more detailed updates

Hi, New here.. Wondering can i make electric furnace with aluminium die will i be able to make sheets

@rag well, without any details, based only on what you wrote - sure. Melting point of aluminium is much higher than an plastic

6:10 AM

Getting a sense of the scale of v4, it's intense!

hey guys, why the shredder pro videos are private??

@Deleted User You need to pay attention to the required torque. This is more or less a fixed value you need to turn the screw during extrusion (And i guess shredding too). Basically power = torque / speed. So increasing the speed means an increase of the required power. Also take into account the efficiency of the reductor. a worm gear has a worse efficiency (+/- 70-%) compared to a bevel gear (+/- 90%) for example. The voltage doesn't realy say much, Power = voltage * Amperage. So the if you use 230V you draw more current (You'll have to make sure your fuses can handle that)

@Peter-Bas - yeah - that's what I understood too with my humble skills. I based my assumptions on a 25mm screw diameter but with v4 screw parameters as yours which is running just fine with 750W | 3P on single phase via VFD, for most PPers. So I guess the extra power is needed for higher & faster throughout and for certain applications. Thanks a lot for the answer! (edited)

@Peter-Bas : since you're around - what's your opinion on grooved barrels ? was wondering to upgrade to it - https://precious-plastic.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/ExtrusionScrews.pdf

Cool, you need a lot more torque for the V4 screw because the pitch is different (higher pitch angle for better transport). But with a torque value of around 100 Nm you should be fine with the new screw. With 750W you just need to limit the speed a bit.

12:59 PM

Grooved barrels can be interesting when you have feeding problems, but I think it's not really needed usually. It helps in the feeding zone, because the granules are transported with a stick /slip principle. But the barrel itself (with seamless tube) is a bit coarse of itself too. So I haven't had problems yet

@Peter-Bas the videos aren't working

Hello from Mexico! I'm new here and sorry if some times I writte wrong in English. Now I want to build a basic shredder, but in my town the laser cut pieces with stainless steel are very expensive. What other material you recommend me to the laser cut pieces?

@Sofi Have you tried quoting the newer materials specs for blades, AR 400 (prehardened, abrasion resistant) ? Its a little cheaper than stainless materials, but is also easier to cut. Maybe a better price there.

I didn't try with AR 400 ( I didn't know this steel), but I will do it. Thanks a lot for response.

@Sofi others might include 4140, 4130. Make sure for the blades that they are hardened and not annealed.

7:18 PM

and for the box pieces, it looks like the suggestion is to use mild steels, so no stainless necessary unless you're going for the corrosion resistance. I kind of like that added factor, but it does raise cost.

@CitSciWorkshop aa okay. What do you think to use aluminum for the box pieces?

steel is way stronger. I'd stay away from Aluminum except for small mold applications.

@CitSciWorkshop why do you advise against annealing ? Usually annealing makes metal tougher

@Arseniy (PL) hardened is better for blades specifically. I use annealed 4140 in other parts though. Blades should be hardened.

@CitSciWorkshop haha, I actually mistook 'annealing' in my head for 'tempering'. So you are obviously right (edited)

Tempering would be nice. I want a foundry...

btw, has anybody experimented with carbide inserts? maybe that's an overkill for plastics though

digs hole in yard for foundry

@CitSciWorkshop o cmon, small forge is absolutely diy'able

1

Carbide tipped composite blades in v5. yes please.

1

youtube is full of videos on diy forges for knifemaking out of propane canisters

8:18 PM

how about something like that:

Someone was using the hex bars we use now with knife attachments too, looks pretty cool.

I'm trying watch the build videos for the Shredder pro and other pro videos, but it's saying the videos are private. I am logged into precious plastic Web site. Is any one else having this issue or is it just me and if so how do I fix it?

@Aeternus ive had same issue all day. I think it has been reported in #deleted-channel

Thanks @lechatblanc

@Arseniy (PL) We were working on that. It has many advantages, but comes with the downside that you need high end machining centers to make them. So it would not align anymore with the goal to be accessible to many people.

Hey, new builder here- what pipes and rods did you guys use for your injection machines? I assume I'm gonna be getting a rod from misumi, but as for the pipe, I'm at a loss for getting something cheap and effective. for those more experienced in the machines actual operation, how flush does the fit have to be to reduce the chance of plastic welling up around the rod?

@ProtuX but really... ^ I've been trying for about a day, and gotten no one who's actually told me anything about sourcing or sizing the barrel. if I can get parts well enough, I might go about working on a deliverable kit.

@nubnubbud which 'rod' exactly do you mean?

the one noted as "roundbar" in the injection bill of materials, but the tube it slides into as well. I couldn't find anywhere on the site or in the forums where there is a suggested supplier, even though the video states they used the "universal plumbing system".. I looked it up and found nothing much, and certainly no standard that included 34mm OD pipes, unless it's japanese/korean standard, but that wouldn't make sense, because the video was made in europe, and they just had it lying around (edited)

12:36 AM

I would get it machined by misumi, but I'd prefer if my own design could be made by others easily.

search for 34mm steel tube on ebay was a bunch of different ones

getting closer, there's one with 1.5mm walls...

12:46 AM

I think... it's just completely unavailable in the US, which explains the low adoption rate over here.

12:47 AM

I'll try searching international ebay

Yeah, noticed most of them were selling for €

I'm still not finding anything though, even on international ebay. I'm finding the fittings, though. is it exactly 34mm, or 33.7mm? I think that's a standard somewhere too?

12:52 AM

like, I'm getting clamps and fittings for them, but no pipes proper

Are you searching for tube or pipe?

pipe, I'll try tube...

12:58 AM

so close.

12:58 AM

there we go, got the international sellers mixed in.

@nubnubbud : it's called 'plunger' & 'barrel' - but nothing off the shelf. the material is 'cold rolled steel'. You will have to go to your next industrial area to find a machine shop which then can point you to a metal trader. After you found this - of course in imperial standards - you often still need to get a 0.1mm clearance between barrel and plunger, ie : sand paper or better lathe. Normally, in injection you want 2 different materials for the both - that's why an extra clearance to prevent bonding. Some use stainless plungers but also there it's hard to find this exactly in this size. On Ebay (germany) : you want to look for 'Präzisionsrohr' (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Pr%C3%A4zisionsrohr-nahtlos-E235-L%C3%A4nge-500mm-Pr%C3%A4zrohr-%C3%988-50mm-H%C3%BClse-Blank/192285206774?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=492218923697&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) aka 'precision pipe' - but even though - this is way more expensive than your next nearby metal trader. Hope this helps (edited)

Präzisionsrohr nahtlos E235 / Länge 500mm / Präzrohr Ø8 - 50mm...

Finden Sie Top-Angebote für Präzisionsrohr nahtlos E235 / Länge 500mm / Präzrohr Ø8 - 50mm Hülse Blank bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!

that is actually a huge help. thanks!

DM me if you need more help - it's rather easy to get from a nearby metal machine shop - which you want also soon as your partner & friends in the PP business

(edited)

1:06 AM

btw. you want at least 4-5 mm barrel wall thickness.

I assumed so, if I was going to be putting that much pressure on the inside of the pipe, which is the weak direction for a cylinder

1:07 AM

that's why I didn't spring for the 3mm walls XD

1

1:09 AM

did you mean a cnc shop, or what? where I am, we're stuck in the beginnings of post-consumerism, so all the shops serve big companies, and it's usually cheaper to buy products and break them down for a part than to go to get a part custom made. (edited)

1:10 AM

(this is one of the reasons I want one of these machines.)

Hello everyone ! We are an association, we have a Fablab in which we have 4 Precious Plastic machines. We didn’t make them but ordered them from the Bazar, the problem is that we made them imported into our island (Reunion) as machines and not as parts. As a result, we had customs problems. The machines stayed there and came out only if we brought them up to CE safety standards within 12 months. It is for this reason that we come to you. We know that within the Precious Plastic community, some of you have been working on upgrading machinery, the problem is we can’t find informations about it. We would like to know, if it’s possible, on which machines this work has been carried out, whether some of it has been completed, and whether this work will be shared. We would like to find out if you can help us with our project to bring Precious Plastic machines up to CE standard. We are already working on this subject in partnership with a technological high school and a IUT. If you could share with us the work done about bringing it up to standard, we might not be working on what has already been done. On the other hand we could concentrate on what on the contrary has not yet been and so, do our best to help you in this huge work of bringing the machines Precious Plastic up to standard. Thank you!

@nubnubbud : you can also look for 'welding shops', or any small enterprise who's doing repair work for bigger stuff like agriculture machines but also do lots of custom stuff like large fences,... . those guys have usually a lathe and good suppliers. so yeah, CNC shop might be not the thing you're looking for - but yet - they could help you too. where are you located ? I can find something on google maps for ya (edited)

yeah... I'm totally scared to approach those kinds of places. This is the US, so I know to begin with, I'm gonna look really silly, going in there and asking for metric stuff. I looked around (I live in Los Angeles), and all the places did basically one thing. about three quarters have no real way to make their own products, and most of them that can seem to require you to be a large company to do business or call for a production order.

10:17 AM

I have found a few welding shops though

10:18 AM

I can only hope they're nerds like me =u=

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@nubnubbud McMaster-Carr ?

1

I was thinking of that, or misumi!

MetalSupermarkets?

I like misumi more, because they're more worldwide, and have a stricter standard, and no minimum on orders.

10:20 AM

...never heard of metalsupermarkets.

10:20 AM

let's see...

Closest to you is anaheim

well, then I'll ask you- do you know which imperial pipe sizes fit flush?

10:21 AM

'cause I don't XD

Haha, don't get me started.

10:22 AM

Imperial pipe standards are nuts, especially threading

it's just... nothing fits neatly in imperial

You can google nice tables thiugh

I hated it, even as a kid

@nubnubbud - creating a good relationship with a nearby metal shop is priceless - nonetheless. if you're lucky they let you watch them over the shoulder and teach you lots of things - as well help you to get your business going

we love family businesses

@nubnubbud also check local makerspaces/fablabs -they might be able to help you

10:24 AM

They might have info and existing relationship with suppliers

I think I might, though the $150 a month is steep =3=

And @Deleted User is right - establishing connection to local machine shop (if you don't have one) is really needed in the long run

I agree with that, at least.

10:31 AM

man, why does this country have to use caveman units. I looked up metal supermarket's video, and their suggested tolerance for a near flush fit is like .5mm

hmm... there are lots of places where the listed parts are nigh impossible to get without having someone make them custom and at that point, it's no longer standard. Areas without a strong infrastructure will be largely unable to make these machines completely out of scrap, because of the precision requirements, but areas with too much development have no easily accessible scrapyards or places to use or store these machines, hence why LA has thousands of people wanting it, but a total of two places have been set aside...

11:10 AM

I think the solution is to make a standard. but that's hard. really hard. but- precious plastic might have it easier than one might think.

@nubnubbud i think small machine shops with manual machines still should exist

11:11 AM

For odd repair jobs etc

not really, or at the very least not ones that are open without a $150 a month subscription.

11:12 AM

machine shops won't let some stranger walk in and use their machines after all

Even if all you have is hollywood, they still use some machinery which breaks and needs repairs. Agriculture usually need a lot of repairs

11:12 AM

Sure, i was talking about commercial shops where you can order details to be modified

11:13 AM

Like, take couple of thou off of standard rod or smthng (edited)

oh, of course, but that kind of thing I'd imagine is expensive. I'll make a call tomorrow, but I expect it to be about $50-$100 for a couple pipes.

11:21 AM

it's a post-consumerist society. the amount of people who know how to use electric construction machinery around here is very low, mostly limited to people who are trained as professionals. I was the only one out of ten people moving here who actually knew how to attach and hook up an internet modem, and the others were scared of me opening a microwave to turn down the buzzer.

@nubnubbud btw, a tip. You buy a standard pipe and then modify a rod/plunger to fit

I see...

1

It's much cheaper to modify the OD of a rod than to bore out the pipe (edited)

man I just need a lathe don't I XD

Yup ;)

I know how to use one, as if anyone would let me touch theirs D

yes- check craiglist - any larger 1000$ lathe with taper cross compound with an adjustable 4 jaw chuck will do - it's going to be the leg of your business

11:25 AM

may take months to find the right one - please check buying guides on youtuve

@nubnubbud also, don't you think you actually don't have to have sliding fit for a whole rod, just a plunger puck part/piston? Not sure what you are actually building though (edited)

I think the issue for cities adopting precious plastic, though, is largely a space one. I have no space to put a lathe, I'm pushing it with just an injection machine.

11:28 AM

so, I'm doing something crazy. I'm redesigning and stripping down the injection machine further, till it can be stored on a closet shelf.

@nubnubbud in continental Europe a lot of spaces/buildings/land is owned by municipalities who often have no idea how to use it. So they are more than happy to rent it for cheap to such innovative/socially valuable/insert your creative description here project

oh. well in the US it's exactly the opposite. all the land is owned by landlords or the city, so if you use anyone else's land for something you'll be sued for trespassing, and land everywhere but the middle of nowhere is so high in demand, most warehouses lease it by the foot.

Well, maybe than makerspace/hackerspace fee is cheaper and you can run your machines in there

11:34 AM

And anyway you all have two car garages so space shouldn't be an issue /sarcasm

1

I gotta say- a $10 a month access to an empty room, would solve so many of my issues.

11:45 AM

in any case- it's reasons like these that I'm gonna make something standard, that's quick, cheap, and dirty, then figure out how to make more later because I kinda need this one now XD

I'm going to make a design that can be put together with nothing but a drill, bolts, some drill bits, a couple screw taps, and the starting materials in a day of work. because that's not a dumb idea at all /s

11:55 AM

but basically, the idea is to make the most portable, basic injection machine possible with a decent shot size, by sacrificing safety and efficiency

I remember that someone made all of the shredder blades by hand, so making a full diy injection machine doesn't look impossible in comparison

I mean, what if I made it a bench, where you just sat on the seat to push the plunger down?

11:57 AM

you would work by taking a break.

11:59 AM

the one thing I have going for me is that I'm pretty good at making things sturdy, and optimizing where value isn't needed. basically: get a good barrel and plunger, and beyond that, your only real concern is holding it to the mold, and pressing the plunger down. all the rest can be sacrificed, except maybe the heater and PID controller

@nubnubbud check out andy machines in YouTube

12:00 PM

He has benchtop injection machine, with plans for patrons

... now that is wonderfully minimal, and the pipe he's using is almost identical to my plan!

12:05 PM

though, that's a whole lot of machining for how it works. (edited)

12:11 PM

I also wonder if you could make an air pressure injector. it would be more mechanically complicated, but the barrels would be easier to clean, and replaceable.

@nubnubbud do you mean a plunger activated by air cylinder? Or by air pressure itself? If former, than yes, if the latter - not sure why and how

air pressure itself. if you melt enough plastic in a chamber, applying air pressure to the air above it should shoot it out. The main benefit would be that there's less to clean, and construction would not depend on having a specifically sized barrel. in fact, you could have a number of barrels of different shot sizes to switch out, or for different materials, to prevent cross-comtamination (edited)

12:19 PM

but that's later, for now, an injection machine that uses only parts you can get anywhere, and no tools that need floorspace!

@nubnubbud haha, but then, what's next? You'll still need CNC'ed moulds to inject into

ahaa- I've got a friend with a resin 3d printer.

12:23 PM

we're a team

I was pretty excited by this 3d printed resin mould idea until I saw the price for a liter of high temp resin: 200$

(edited)

Does it print metal?

nah, but you don't need that. if you brace the resin mold with even just wood, it'll hold up.

But won't it melt itself?!

it's a resin, not a plastic.

@Arseniy (PL) https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-3d-printed-injection-mould

Sounds insane to me. But thanks @John

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you can even see how it 's filling up.

12:26 PM

perfect for troubleshooting

but as I said, you can have two cnc'd moulds on the bazar for a liter of the resin they used

12:27 PM

don't know if it's worth the trouble

https://www.filamentone.com/products/phrozen-tr250-high-temp-500ml-3d-printing-engineering-resin?variant=30299791720542&currency=USD&utm_campaign=gs-2019-09-12&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvJXxBRCeARIsAMSkApo9jEM3g9unbvEatd3AnsJU_21bYXTiU49bHC94FJpfayQ6Jk0lyLAaAsdeEALw_wcB

Phrozen TR250 High Temp 500ml 3D Printing Engineering ResinDefault...

High quality 3D printing resin by Phrozen. Phrozen TR250, is an engineering grade resin, with excellent mechanical characteristics, and thermal resilience that allows it function normally at temperatures up to 200 degrees Celsius. Spec & Properties Color: Deep Grey Volume: ...

12:30 PM

you just gotta know where to look~

12:31 PM

formlabs resin is nice, but it's like going to apple. way overhyped.

@nubnubbud but it says it's Tg is only 100C. Not sure what Tg is though

glass melting point maybe?

12:33 PM

glass transition.

12:33 PM

huh, you're right...

Ok, so it's 'baking' temperature after print i suppose. So there is no info on how heat resistant it is?

but then again they advertse "thermal resilience that allows it function normally at temperatures up to 200 degrees Celsius."

Hmm wait, glass transition t should be relevant for termoset stuff, but this one - isn't it uv - set?

yeah, exactly. I think it works like this- the glass transition temperature is 100c, technically. it can be worked then, but it still works normally to 200c, which leaves me to believe it's very rigid even when it's "technically melting"

12:37 PM

kinda like how glass in the sunlight will slowly go limp and sag over a century

12:37 PM

yes, glass in the sunlight is "molten" but it'll still shatter 'cause it's not soft

well, it's 4 AM here. so I'm gonna sleep- but in any case- I should have the initial design done in a day

12:48 PM

I think I'm going to use standard aluminum extrusions for the chassis because they're cheap and easy to attach things to for mods.

Hello, I'm Fatma! i have a question about motors of machines... According to Extrusion Machine, What does the output Speed affect on the Extrusion machine, How Much Should the output speed be for the average machine?

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1:20 PM

and How can we use 380V motors as 220V?

1:22 PM

I mean, precious Plastic's website says an output speed of 40-140. When it's 40, what purpose can we use it for? when it's 140, what purpose can we use it for?

1

Hi, I'm requesting a quote from a local laser cutter for Shredder parts. I'm hoping to get 2 or 3 sieves made at the same time. Primarily I want to shred polystyrene yogurt pots for making sheets and compressing fairly blocky products. Can anyone offer advice on sieve hole sizes etc? Thanks

@lechatblanc hi, i hope you are not implying that you'll be cutting holes for the sieve on the lasercutter?

@Arseniy (PL)

2:03 PM

I was kind of implying that, yes. I've stamped sheet mesh...but saw a video implying that different spacing and hole variations could be beneficial...I guess I should just keep it simple, right?

Well, lasers are priced by the cutting time, so it'd be very pricey

2:05 PM

Usually if you are able to find a laser cutter, you should be able to find a punch press, they can be manual or cnc

2:06 PM

But really I'd be surprised if there were no mesh available with needed spacing.

I believe that you can buy different mesh with different holes size from the same supplier...?

@Ley Klussyn that's my experience too

Ok, great, thanks @Arseniy (PL). I don't have much budget, anyway, so that's useful advice.

2:09 PM

@Ley Klussyn @Arseniy (PL) do you have shredder machines? What sieves are you using?

@lechatblanc sieves are per-purpose, exchengable.

Anyone who has built the shredder, can you indicate the power and torque of the engine that you think is ideal for the basic version? I was thinking of putting one with 1.5 KW with reducer to stay around 60 rpm and a torque between 180 to 250 Nm. The question is that on the PP website it indicates that the required minimum torque is 1000 Nm. Is that correct? best regards

1

I don't have a shredder (yet!), I will probably make 3 sieves, big medium small, like on the Academy.

1

@Pedro S I have a 1.5kW shredder that reduces to ~55rpm and it's a beef, I have not seen it stuck yet

2:41 PM

here you can find a nice calculator to see if your motor is ok to shred plastic: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/will-it-shred/

Andy Noyes

Will it shred?? - Dave Hakkens

The questions often come up, “will this motor work?” “How many rpm do I need, how much power?” There are several other threads about finding suitable motors and gearboxes In truth there is no - Dave Hakkens

1

or the non MS$$ excel way : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1EVJQ_gZuqKq5FcXC_a0_5Wt7lf9Qgm9KRfWF05pfLqE/edit?usp=sharing

1

but just out of curiosity - 1000Nm on the little v3's 20mm driveshaft ? I felt already nervous seeing 600Nm on a 30mm driveshaft ... not sure though that even a perfect assembly and knifes are actually made for this kind of force ... is that a bug ? (edited)

3:02 PM

1 Nm is basically holding an apple (100g) with a stretched arm,...

Has anyone started building the v4 machines?

there is a few in the bazar. Havent seen an injection machine yet tho

@ProtuX everyone is posting stock photos from the download package. I interested if someone other than the v4 team has started building the machine for themselves or others

2

1

We're building v4, but not posting listings until we can show actual production. (edited)

@sharma.sagar94 : yup, but only production planning, extruder and sheetpress currently in redesign (make it ship-able, safer, ...), shredder isn't really interesting for us and we decided to make some kinda affiliate with Morrentrading - sort of v3.5 shredder - right on the money, adds 'just' 1K instead 2.5k to the bill

at the end we just merge it all into existing products (edited)

9:25 PM

whereby we go for a 80x80cm sheet sheetpress - I couldn't figure out why 1m and clients confirmed this as well

9:30 PM

btw. any ideas on how to integrate the cooling press in the same machine ? we might use 8x8cm alu profiles (headache) to hold all together ... was wondering to use the same jack for both presses just - possibly more a forum question though ...

9:34 PM

for the sheet press rails, we take SBR20s btw.

@Deleted User do you source such parts locally or use aliexpress/alibaba/taobao?

9:36 PM

@Deleted User also, those rails will be mounted vertically in the sheetpress, right? Why then go for the supported version? there won't be any sag...

9:38 PM

I was thinking about using beefy cylindrical rails/tubes as part of frame itself and use them with bronze bushings

9:41 PM

also, if you'll use hot press's jack for the cooling press that means you won't be able to use hot press for the quite long cooling time, right? That will limit your throuput

@Arseniy (PL) : aliexpress & friends : less and less

rails: yup vertical ! bushings : yep, that's usually the way - still, using replaceable 5Euro SBR trucks makes it more easy. I kinda hope to wrap it all up and close it with a door due to massive fumes - we know this is getting troublesome - even though we install fans. Anyways, we have a guy taking about those details soon

timing : yeah - now you got me - was just thinking loud as said (edited)

@Deleted User

that's what this chat is for

(edited)

i think this can be fixed using some sort of 'spacers'

@Deleted User actually I'm not even sure if hydraulic jack is needed for cooling - I believe cheap woodworking clamps should be enough if the cooling planes (between which the sheet is sandwiched) are stiff enough. I'm thinking, it's already pressed into sheet, cooling press is only to prevent deformation during cooling (edited)

1

our thermo-forming /wood guy said the other day using fire hoses as press might do the trick - since there is a guarantee for even pressure - just very tricky to seal those chunks up. does this make sense ? I am not really fan of air compressors but ok

@Deleted User akhem, I failed to visualize that actually - do you have any link to how to use fire hoses as a press? Is it similar to rubber 'pillows' which are used to lift doors from hinges? you pump air into them with handheld pump and they exert crazy pressure (edited)

not really - right now ... basically you cut them in pieces and make a square with those hoses, then you connect them to each other and fill it up with a compressor - he did this for a few wood projects and said it's awesome. the fire hose connectors however can get cracy expensive. (edited)

@Deleted User wow, never heard about it, cool

yeah - an old fashion designer - I often just understand just a fraction when he's talking

(edited)

thanks @John

11:35 PM

So you think i dont need a 2.2 kw?

for the basic version I'd say 1.5kW / 60rpm is enough

@Arseniy (PL) I have a laser, and I have been excited to cut custom meshes for a while. Sheet for meshes can be cut in 2-5min

a little update on my own version of the v4 extrusion design. I omitted the expensive machining. lasered the hopper, use a flange bearing, and chain flex coupler between the gearbox and the screw

5:07 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAKbRXlAGCI

metzindustries

Precious plastic extrusion screw

@Butte (PP Philippines) cool! What did you use as an extrusion screw?

the preciouos plastic upgrade screw from v3. I changed the shafting to 1 inch for the flange. makes much easier to attach a couplper

hmm... I was thinking about it, and how much force needs to be applied? would about 100 kilos of weight on a straight plunger be enough to inject plastic on its own? (edited)

can we really just have a pipe that we push manually into the injector?

@nubnubbud if you are talking about force in the injection molding machine, there are class 2 lever-operated ones. 50 kg on the end of 1m lever with the cylinder 0.2 m from the fulcrum should result in 250kg on the cylinder (if my math is right lol)

I see. so, it needs more force. got it.

Levers ftw

also, how does the rod remain straight above the barrel when the lever turns up? is it really just that one extra joint doing that? or are there some ratios I need to know?

There is two point fulcrum

I'm just wondering how small I can have that other joint and still have it work.

Make scale paper 2d template and experiment ;)

gah where are my legos when I need them XD

Hehe

alright, I ran some numbers- I can't use a lever on a design this compact

2:46 PM

it just doesn't have the room.

2:46 PM

looks like I'm making a 1/2 scale model of an arbor injector XD

You mean for storage?Can't the lever be detachable?

no, I mean actually being able to draw the plunger all the way out

2:47 PM

at my size, the plunger would need to be on the end of the lever. the hand part.

Also, remember that pipe/barrel length determines how much plasic you ll be able to extrude, how big your objects will be

2:48 PM

So it can't be too compact

yep. and mine should be able to do almost as much as the arbor, with half the size requirements- almost 80cc's of plastic.

@nubnubbud not sure what's your design then if you think you can't fit the lever there

you can make the lever like a piston

2:51 PM

with sort of set screws to adjust the lever length (edited)

@Deleted User is the top connection (link to the lever) a sliding one?

yes

Nice

can the entire plunger come out of that without deconstructing it?

but the links were actually not optimal on this build, there is a linkage design tool : http://blog.rectorsquid.com/linkage-mechanism-designer-and-simulator/

2:54 PM

yep

there's btw. another variant around : https://preciousplastic.com/solutions/machines/community.html | 'Flywheel' - but yeah - the arbor design is becoming a trend recently. However, an open source version is here : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/arbor-injection-press/ but quite a difficult job to make one right - the first time especially - hadn't much time to upload production videos ..

for a moment I was just considering attaching a steering wheel to a lead screw, and screwing that down with a plunger on the tip XD

3:10 PM

simple stupid, you know?

yup, that works too ! I had a prototype for this - but messed it up badly since the welding pulled the nut so badly that nothing moved anymore. my wheel was around 60cm diameter. let me check, i still have footage somewhere (edited)

well, my design has not a single weld so that's promising.

yeah !

did you at least prove that the spinning didn't allow the plastic to slip up the sides of the plunger more easily, or did you have a way to keep the plunger from spinning?

3:13 PM

...actually that's probably not too hard.

@nubnubbud plunger and screw don't have to be same part so the plunger can stay in place

exactly

In my build I had a linked plunger - to the ACME rod - driven by a wheel through a nut - welded on the barrel end - was rather difficult

@nubnubbud so, is your goal to make it as cheap as possible? Because than what will you use as a screw? Allthread won't cut it I'm afraid

3:16 PM

I think a lever is easier and cheaper to make

3:16 PM

Also, it'll be quicker to operate

there are some problems with larger lever based injection :

you can't actually see much when pulling - that's important when you fiddle around
well, the height of course
i see often folks holding the frame whilst another is injecting
to fill up an iphone mold, it seems to need 2 people whilst with the arbor it's a piece of cake, with one arm just

I want a nice little desktop model with easy operation, as cheap and small as possible, while also giving good extrusion. basically, the dream

3:22 PM

however, I can go to $300 for the parts if it satisfies the size, extrusion, and easy operation requirements.

@Deleted User oh, i was referring to the pictures you posted as levers, you call them arbor right?

no, the arbor is this beast

3:23 PM

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/listings/785106-injection-machine-arbor

hang on, got something forya : https://www.instagram.com/p/B7cZ0ZtH52I/ I made one like this a year ago - but also, harder to make

@nubnubbud thx!

what's the extrusion volume?

not much ... 20cm stroke, 30mm dia or so - but it's nice & enough for many in the PP crowd

3:25 PM

lunch time , have fun

I see. mine as it currently is designed, should max out around 70.

Now that i think of it , itd be fun to design a foot-operated one with big mechanical advantage...

all I need is a reliable way to get the plunger all the way out and in, an easy, secure way to attach a nozzle, and a way to hold the barrel in place.

3:27 PM

the last two may be one and the same

3:28 PM

lead screw is definitely cheaper than rack and pinion, it looks like.

3:29 PM

it also has the advantage of being able to retract the entire plunger in almost no space at all, and can produce literal tons of force easily (edited)

3:30 PM

aha.

3:30 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/10mm-diameter-lead-screw-with-trapezoidal_60329405615.html

3:31 PM

if I use one with a steeper pitch, I can make it extrude in fewer turns, at the cost of power. (edited)

@nubnubbud for that look for multistart screws

...what's the advantage there?

3:33 PM

...

3:33 PM

oh

3:33 PM

that's super sneaky

3:38 PM

but I think pitch is more important for me right now, I'd prefer to have huge threads if at all possible. easier to clean and maintain

i won't make it too steep - it really wants some power. i'd say a larger wheel - also heavy and a screw and nut like this would do the job : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVW7Q469RnA

3:52 PM

the guy is using 'Delrin' as nut - also used on military grade mills - little wear out and self lubricating

3:53 PM

those screws are cheap btw.

Hello guys, I'm trying to start PP here in San Francisco can you please advise me which methods would be applicable to creating table legs?

@Stomper Pupper injection moulding can do anything. But for the table legs it would be quite a big mould (very expensive, comercially ordered probably not less than $10k). (edited)

9:21 PM

or you could extrude big beam and machine it to make legs, similarly to wood

For big straight table legs I would go for the extruded beams. With a similar method of this one : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-bench-with-beams (edited)

thank you for the advice guys, my idea was to design a 3d model or clay sculpture and make my own mold for the injecction process. I assume other people on here have made their own injection molds but injection molds are new for me

they're kinda tough to make. I heard tell of someone actually being able to print an object, make a silicone mold of it, and inject into it, with a metal casing to brace it and stop insane warping.

1

4:48 AM

not sure how well it might work, but it's definitely worth a try.

4:50 AM

if it works, it might become a standard for low precision, low run count injection, seeing as overhangs and draft angles aren't really important with silicone.

Hi all, has anyone used brass for the hex shaft? I'm having trouble finding steel or stainless

Good morning everyone. a user asks us here whether they could recycle nylon fishing nets (PA6) with v3 or v4. In particular, is the shredder and extruder able to process it ? thanks a lot

@Deleted User i guess only experiment will tell. Don't suppose many ppl have free access to fishing nets :)

1

8:17 AM

@0502 nope, brass is way too soft for torque-transmitting applications

8:19 AM

@0502 instead of hex you can use cylindrical shaft with keyway[s]

8:20 AM

Obviously then the knives need to have round hole with a keyway too :)

@Arseniy (PL) - are you sure about that ? there's quite some violence in those shredders - I wouldn't do that because this may wear pretty out quick - I guess. (edited)

@Deleted User well, keyways are very widely used for torque transmission on all kinds of pulley shafts.

8:36 AM

Machinist handbooks should have a table with the sizes of keyways needed

@Deleted User @Arseniy (PL) if not hex, or cylinder with a keyway, then maybe a square shaft? As well as the torque transmission advantage, it seems the hex shaft is mainly there to easily orient the knives at 60 degree intervals.

1

@0502 - where are you located ? we can send you one - we have lots of spare parts not being used at the end ...

@lechatblanc @Deleted User not sure why you think keyway is inferior or not enough for this application. Almost all gears and pulleys on big lathes and mills (many kW) are fitted with keyways. And the stresses on a lathe are much worse than in plastic shredder (although loads are handled by bearings, not keyways)

@Arseniy (PL) @Deleted User . I agree that keyway would be totally adequate. While the hex shaft seems to offer the advantages mentioned, I think it's a potential obstacle for anyone unable locate or afford a laser/plasma cut service.

9:36 AM

@Arseniy (PL) @Deleted User @0502 does anyone have experience of cutting the shredder parts on a bandsaw?

well, the stuff coming from the laser has often some play, especially circles don't come out precise - even though we tried the best laser services - and so you would end up with some play - that makes it quite a different ball park compared to a perfect fitting gear, no ? there was a Russian guy on youtube, he had a play around 1 mm play on the hex - it did end up pretty bad (edited)

9:39 AM

in top - stainless is kinda gummy ...

@Deleted User that's my next point actually ;) for round shaft holes you don't need lasercutting - you can drill it with a holesaw or mill it

In New Zealand so shipping jumps up the cost. Will look at costs of getting one machined vs shipping one in from Australia

9:42 AM

Thanks for the advise

@0502 well, google search on 'new Zealand steel hex stock' does return something, doesn't it?

20,24,30,35mm. Even the V4 50mm isnt available and another guy here had to have one machined. Been emailing for a week so will keep going for I machine one

@0502 : you might be lucky checking the old map : https://oldmap.preciousplastic.com/ - @More Than Ten Cents is next to you though (https://morethantencents.com/)

That's plan b

1

Hi, sorry for being late again

Here the PET grinder (to print it); I am as always open to suggestions. For now this works well with a 400W - 800W | 1500RPM motor via pulley. More updates on Github (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/idefix). Some build videos and other things as component sourcing will be added there - For the printer - see frequent updates on the galaxy server, there is an amazing crowd now too

(https://discord.gg/j7K7n9e)

@Deleted User what if you make that static angled knife horizonal? As in that Indian video?

@Arseniy (PL) : yeah, that's the plan for the next major upgrade. (2-3 stationary knifes) . For now I am happy this works quite flawless and relative fast. let's called it a v3 addon

12:09 PM

problem is that the mount occupies quite some space and the sieve wants around 1 cm clearance around the mobile knifes circumference. but yeah, it's a little hackish

I found some metal shops, and the guys were pretty nice!~... but they all agreed that anything remotely precision can't be done at their kind of shops.

1

1:05 PM

one of them even mentioned misumi, my current go-to for parts.

@nubnubbud great, you already did more than the majority of lurkers here ;) out of interest, what kind of precision were you asking and for which parts?

I was looking for things within about half to a quarter of a mm

1:14 PM

on all sides, of course, so up to 1-.5mm thinner than expected

Misumi looks great, many us machinists i follow order parts there, but it's pricey

it is- but it's 100% quality

1:14 PM

they also have shops and distribution centers worldwide

1:15 PM

so if you make a misumi parts list, you can just hand it to other people. their v-slot extrusion is dirt cheap though!

@nubnubbud that precision shouldn't be hard to achieve, hmm I'm puzzled what kind of shop they have (edited)

it was just a general stainless steel workshop. I didn't see a lathe, and they didn't seem to have anything more than a couple millimeters thick. it's all in the space of a couple garages.

Oh i see, makes sense (edited)

mostly, they just seem to work on car parts and custom heavy duty welded mounts

1:19 PM

still, they could totally make a frame to spec, if I wasn't designing it to be hand-assembled

1:20 PM

but I finally have just two last things I need help with, I've got everything else handled besides! (edited)

1:21 PM

1: how do I put a nozzle on a 20mm pipe, and what nozzle? 2: how do I firmly attach this heated metal pipe to the frame?

Pro tip - there is big community of machinists on Instagram, try searching there for local ones (edited)

gah, that'll be tough. I've seen them though.

Well, 1 is tough without threading or machining (edited)

1:26 PM

Actually, nozzle should match your moulds

1:26 PM

So you also have to think how to press nozzle into the mould

yeah, I was thinking of using something like a lead screw or car jack (plastichub's idea) to make a flush fit to the end of the pipe.

@nubnubbud hmm, 3dprinted moulds pressed into the nozzle/pipe by a press?

that would probably crack them.

1:44 PM

I was thinking something like this, where the inside of there the nozzle would be, is just a gap in the mold

@nubnubbud yep, also thought about same, could work.

the issue is, if you have multiple molds, you have to be pretty fast on the uptake or you'll lose plastic. the upside: no threads to mess up, and no machining to do, plastic throughput is basically unlimited in speed, enough to be able to make runners of smaller objects, as it remains hotter longer into the mold, can be changed very quickly. the downside: not as reliable as a threaded connection, can leak, must be held firmly in place, requires a silicone ring, and cannot be resized for smaller molds. (edited)

1:53 PM

(it's good for big things.)

@nubnubbud to change moulds you lift the plunger so suction is created. Think syringe

ah. right. I have to remember- in 3d printing it just relieves pressure, no suction because there's some clearance XD

Well, I've seen some printers that reverse the motor when moving between printed parts to prevent oozing and 'hairs'/strands

yeah, exactly that. a lot of people thing you suck some filament back in, but you don't. in fact, pulling it back too far just pulls a little hot plastic into the cooling section, possibly clogging it.

ahaa

3:18 PM

https://www.threadtoolsupply.com/m20-male-12-npt-male-316-stainless-steel-thread-adapter-atex.html

3:19 PM

I might just have to list various adapters that can work with it

@nubnubbud wait, is your pipe threaded at the end?

you'd think 20mm would be a standard size but it's almost never used :/

3:19 PM

and no, but tapping it shouldn't be too hard, even without a clamp.

Standard sizes for pipe threads are imperial

...

3:20 PM

everywhere?

Yep :(

why...does...AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

NPT - National Pipe Tapered thread (edited)

the nation in question there is the US! it was never to be used other places gah.

Oh well

man, this sucks. I think I reallt might actually do that mold trick then

The only pipes that are metric here in eu that i can think of are copper ones for heating.

it's so obvious that the metric system would be better- they have a very clear and small list of standard thread sizes, pitches, and qualities.

3:24 PM

like, you have m20, m20 fine, and m20 extra coarse. there you go

Haha, you are thinking about ISO metric threads, they are few. But there are many more metric threads which are not ISO - eg extra extra fine , with all possible pitches

well, it'll always be like that, but the fact that there's an online list of all the "super standards" helps.

3:27 PM

but also- an m20 bolt... can be used to plug an m20 internally threaded pipe.

3:27 PM

it's modular. construction and plumbing would need the same tool sizes.

Well, in plumbing there is the reason they use npt instead of metric - npt is actually conical, so it can be sealed so water won't leak. Metric threads leak

ah.

3:29 PM

that explains why the last threads are so tough

3:35 PM

ah. misumi actually has a section just for injection molding

3:40 PM

in any case, if it's true that most of the world uses imperial for pipe fittings, that makes my choices, if less satisfying, easier

hmm... misumi has some standard shaft collars with threaded holes. I could possibly use that as a clamping mechanism to give it interchangeable nozzles? that doesn't sound so useful though.

Any thoughts on CNC plasma versus laser cutting the shredder gears? Plasma is definitely not as precise.

I'm building a plasma cutter. When it's done I'll be documenting it and modifying designs to account for the reduced accuracy.

@Deleted User @Arseniy (PL) if not hex, or cylinder with a keyway, then maybe a square shaft? As well as the torque transmission advantage, it seems the hex shaft is mainly there to easily orient the knives at 60 degree intervals.

@lechatblanc I've been suggesting dual cylindrical shafts for a while.

1

https://i.imgur.com/fp3xn70.jpg

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) love it! I'm stepping closer and closer to making a unit with tools I already own.

What tools do you have?

Plasma has a very wide HAZ (heat affected zone) while laser's is just on the surface of the line cut. That as well as the amount of material destroyed inside the path of the cut make plasma a hard process to adapt to tolerances.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) pillar drill, grinder, hacksaw, files, arc welder and jigsaw etc.

The reason I opted for dual cylindrical shafts, was because you can do that precisely with something like a drill press. And that's the one area on the older shredder design that actually required the accuracy of laser cutting.

1

8:22 AM

And the idea of repeatedly sending off new designs to some third party seemed pretty crap. Especially if people wanted to iterate through and test new concepts.

1

Yeah, exactly. Its a nice choice to have, though. Horses for courses, I'd say. Personally I'd rather spend the laser cutting fee on a tool upgrade, or more materials.

Yeah same.

8:27 AM

Precious Plastics is very much a peripheral pursuit to my main activities.

But hey, I got a laser cutter for like minded people to iterate with. I was tired of constantly waiting for parts and so I went all on Inna laser for metal. PP is first in line from me.

Where are you based?

8:31 AM

Oh, regarding the heat affected zone. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but the big issue here is that your sheets can sag as they get close to the melt temperature.

8:32 AM

And this is most pronounced on a large sheet, with slow cuts.

I'm out of Boise, USA, but I serve the world.

8:34 AM

Re: HAZ the laser moves quickly with a tight beam and acts differently with assistive gas. (edited)

So, for the cost of international shipping, someone with their own tool can cut the plates. So while that's nice that you're helping others. My intention is to make the tools (Plasma CNC) open source and cheap.

8:35 AM

Plasma can move quickly too. It seems though that the machines are not designed to.

So the big thing about plasma is that it hardens through the material quite a bit.

8:39 AM

Int'l shipping. I've been setting points for economy of scale that will let a producer buy a few for a good price and attain the best process quality before they'd need to buy a machine to cut themselves. Retail laser prices are too much, but tightly packed parts ready to weld would be easily shippable duty free pretty much everywhere. (edited)

What do you mean when you say plasma hardens through the material?

It has a wider spread of heat, and heats into material on either side of the cut path, sort of shock hardens it.

Yes, but isn't this largely due to most Plasma CNC's cutting quite slowly?

That is a big part yes, but generally the "beam" or stroke of the plasma is much larger than a laser beam.

Ok. So the reason I'm asking this, is I've asked a few people more familiar with it as well, but I want to have their advice reinforced, which you did.

8:47 AM

I am converting a 3D printer into a plasma cutter. Certain geometries of printer are fit for this purpose, for a long list of reasons. But the most compelling is the speed with which you can move the head.

1

not only that, speed/power/material

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) what is it about speed?

So there's a few reasons I think speed is important. Rapid acceleration means more even cut thicknesses, as the movement rate will be more constant.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) wouldn't the size of 3d printer severely limit is utility of converted into plasmacutter?

Faster movement rates will mean lower time over the various areas.

less power applied to the area over time...

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) but for plasmacutter speed can't be high or it won't penetrate

means not cutting through all the way, burned metal. ^^

And possibly; travel moves at very high speed might result in no effective cut, allowing you to not have to turn it on an off as much.

8:54 AM

It seems to me that a lot of plasma cutting CNC demonstrations move much slower than the time required to cut through.

they'd be moving as fast as they can if it meant better $$. Trust a material limitation, is my advice.

It seems more like it's a limitation in the CNC machines.

8:55 AM

The machines are not designed to move quickly.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) hm what do you base this opinion on? (edited)

I'd research everything you can on "Plasma speeds and feeds" to get a handle on it.

They produce large table machines that have obviously heavy components.

8:57 AM

The effect of that is they can't accelerate or decelerate as fast.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) if you don't have access to plasmacutter just watch some yt videos. Pay attention to how fast it's moving prior to cutting when homing

Sure, they move fast once they get up to speed.

8:58 AM

But they practically stop on corners.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) that's the thing, they don't need to move fast when cutting

8:59 AM

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) unless you are cutting 1 mm foil

@Arseniy (PL) if 1mm is foil, how do you wrap your sandwiches.

1

I think you're missing a crucial aspect of what I'm saying here. If you are not cutting at a consistent speed, then you are not producing accurate cuts. The weakness of these big machines is that they cannot cut at a consistent speed because of acceleration and deceleration rates. Which means that the only accurate cuts are slow cuts.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) btw, what kind of thicknesses to cut are you aiming for?

every production machine I've used IRL has machine speeds far above the material limitations.

4-6mm. I may redesign parts to suit 4mm.

@CitSciWorkshop that's my experience as well

This just doesn't add up, from my understanding of the limitations of the geometry they use.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) it's better to see it with your own eyes - there are plenty YT videos

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) By all means, pursue and research your theories. I think we just don't want you to spend a lot of your energy on things that can be proven within industry. I would enjoy seeing your work and results.

Yep exactly

https://youtu.be/s8NBwxJf4Rs?t=140 - so you're telling me you have seen plasma CNC machines accelerate this fast?

Jeff Rodriguez

GARCAD 400mm/s print speed, 16m/s/s acceleration.

Again, material limitations.

Again, I am not talking about max speed. I am talking about time to speed.

https://youtu.be/w92SSzBQGpE

WinnerCosmed

MY DIY CNC PLASMA CUTTER

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) what is your use case that you think acceleration is so important? It's only relevant when moving between parts, isn't it?

No. It's relevant to accuracy.

9:09 AM

Cut accuracy.

How?

@Arseniy (PL) It can help with cooling effects in metal too.

Cutting is done on constant speed

People don't cut slow with plasma cutters because they take a long time to go through the steel. They cut slow because that's how they get a consistent cut thickness.

nope.

I have seen plasma cutters moving at high speed and as their speed is changing the cut thickness changes.

everything you see in Dan's video is a prerequisite of successful cutting through the material.

9:11 AM

Pierce into material for thickness. Speed for consistent through cut, and acceleration to next spot hole.

Are you arguing that if they moved faster they would fail to go through, because there are plenty of videos on YT of much faster cutting.

9:13 AM

Often with advice in the desc/comments "not to do this" due to lost accuracy.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) maybe you can rent a handheld plasmacutter and try cutting with it first at least. That should clarify a lot of this

Yeah, I should do some experiments with the relevant materials.

Plasmacutter is not a jedi sword, it needs time to penetrate and cut

@Arseniy (PL) YES IT IS

9:14 AM

haha

9:16 AM

We are all Jedi here. Good Night/morning/afternoon friends. Please ping me if I've helped you and I will continue to do so.

1

You can see in this video, fast cutting, but with noticeable lag in speed change; https://youtu.be/9KA45TLTcm4?t=55

Uni-kat CNC Solutions

Uni-Kat Glimmer high speed plasma cutter Uni-kat CNC Solutions

Hi there! Does anyone if the the extruder screw shaft on the extrusion pro need heat treatment? It doesn't seem to specify anything on the drawing

10:27 AM

*know

@treesareforhugging the only place that may require heat treatment in ideal conditions is bearing seat. To prevent wear from rubbing the whole screw could be treated (edited)

10:34 AM

That is, if your screw is not rubbing on the barrel (edited)

Thank you for that @Arseniy (PL) ! Hopefully it comes out pretty straight

@treesareforhugging unfortunately wedging and clogging and rubbing happens quite often so if you have an opportunity it may be actually better to heat treat the whole screw, when i think of it now...

Thats good info @Arseniy (PL) Will see if I can track someone down locally who can help with that. Should improve the life of the screw as well if some GF plastics or weird stuff goes through regularly as well.

10:40 AM

Only saw your edit now! Totally agree

there is actually some clearance, about ~1mm between barrel and shaft.

10:46 AM

here a 3d explorer : https://a360.co/2FABaSA

Thx

alright, so correct me if I'm wrong here, but is a 20mm hole a good size to use a 7/8ths NPT tap on? I think it is, but before I get one, I want to make sure.

@nubnubbud there are tables for that that contain drill size for each thread size

I know, I just want to make sure I'm reading them right, and ones that include 7/8ths are hard to find =3=

@nubnubbud also, for npt which is tapered, you might need to use tapered reamer first.

10:57 AM

I don't have practical experience threading npt sadly

10:58 AM

You know, pipe threads are imperial, but not all of them are npt (tapered)

aaaaaa okay.

Nps* threads are Straight

10:58 AM

Maybe try to find those

also, if I enlarge the hole by about 1mm, I can tap it for m24, and that I know is pretty standard.

@nubnubbud remember to check prices of m24 taps :)

maximum oof

@nubnubbud but it's unrealistic to enlarge the bore without a lathe

yeah at least 7/8ths was 25 bucks

In US maybe you should stick to imperial bore sizes

that was the plan. maybe with the kit I should explain what taps you can use to get good results for multiple systems.

11:06 AM

so the only extra tool they need is a tap and tap wrench.

11:08 AM

better than custom tapping all of them before I sell them, and better than sending a tap set for like $100 each time XD

11:11 AM

besides, with this thing's apparent starting price, it should go without saying that corners were cut (and others not) to be able to make it for so little, even from misumi

OH

Hi, I saw the Build video for v4 shredder. Some thoughts off the top of my head: I am unsure if this is something that will work well in our Philippines market. Some of the parts are imported or quite expensive. At the costs for materials I do not think it is competitive with the Chinese machinery. The v3 is very competitive with China but somehow we need a better solution. the gearbox is the most expensive issue for us over here. I can buy the gear motors, but the pricing is really really high. However if I can waterjet a gearbox... and use a conventional motor, then we can really make a impact. However the frame will need to change. Kind of a big engineering job. Second the v4 pro extrusion... I did a laser cut hopper with a flange bearing. The solution seems to be a better deal than the machined coupling design. Also over here, we are getting some mentoring from a experienced engineer, and he has noted that our extrusion machines are over powered. Meaning that the motors he uses for his bigger machines are belt and pulley reduction and only 1.5hp for a 2 inch screw. He also says that we need a thrust bearing on the v3 to keep the screw from pushing back out of the barrel and to prevent problems with the gearbox breaking the oil seal because it pushes back. He said this will be something that will develop not right away but after a few months of production wil become obvious.

1

I was looking at the shredder myself, and kept thinking... "why not just bolt a really heavy plate and manually spin that up with a handle before you drop plastic in?"

11:28 AM

just let momentum do it. no power or electronics required

11:29 AM

flywheels are wonderful sources of energy storage

@Butte (PP Philippines) IMHO I agree about overpowered. Belt and pulleys should be able to replace the gearbox

also I just learned that M22 thread pipe is a standard in the US!

11:30 AM

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Care-3-8-in-Male-NPT-x-Male-M22-Pressure-Washer-Hose-to-Trigger-Coupler-AP31085/203353091?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-203353080-_-203353091-_-N

11:30 AM

for pressure washers

Lol

XD

Because why be consistent

well, it's 3/8ths here, and 22mm everywhere else, so it seems that there's a lot of need for cross-connecting

I use 5hp for the v3 shredder. step it down from the motor 1750 rpm to 437.5 rpm to a center axle. because I step up the torque, it goes into a 15 tooth type 50 sprocket that turns a 57 tooth sprocked on the shredder. evedrything is packaged in a galvanized steel 3mm thick sheet metal frame that is laser cut and cnc bent.

and an m22 thread I should be able to (messily) tap without too much trouble.

the margin on the belt and pulley design is good enough to pay our workers, overhead, and community organizing for recycling.

@Butte (PP Philippines) so the resulting speed of 437 RPM - does that work ok for you? Isn't it a bit on the high side?

11:37 AM

@Butte (PP Philippines) out of interest - who are your clients to whom you sell shredders (if i understood correctly)?

(also, for the shredder, I personally don't need too much speed, so I would just get an electric stepper motor like the nema34 and step down, to give it massive torque)

11:38 AM

(not super sure of the feasability of that but I'm a dumbass at times I'll do it don't tempt me)

@nubnubbud why not some used ac async motor? They should be cheap and don't require much control (edited)

can you link one you might use? I'm only seeing motors over $100

@nubnubbud so are you saying good enough Nema34 with controller will be cheaper than $100?

like I said I'm not sure how feasible it is

Did anyone work on Hexagonal Funnel to build solar oven?

but I've seen some stepper motors that are really, really strong.

Is the Hexagonal funnel good enough to build a solar oven to melt plastics?

okay no I see the controller is too expensive. strange, because smaller controllers are super simple, and big ones should only be more for materials

11:47 AM

all you have to do is send power to the motor in sequence, 2 leads at a time, and it'll go

11:54 AM

...keep me away from electronics XD

@energy please don't spam unrelated channels with the same question. This is probably the right channel for your question. If nobody answers right away than maybe nobody has an opinion or they will answer later. (edited)

So, sorry. I’m in dire need of information regarding the question I posted.

11:59 AM

I have limited time to prove myself, hence the spamming.

@energy : there was a project mentioned sometime in the monthly news - but I can't find any details. Evtl. @Kat may still remember about the solar extruder.

@Deleted User thank for the information.

please search the forum as well : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/search/solar/ | however, it was last year june - sept. or so on youtube

12:11 PM

and : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/search/fresnel/

I would search for fresnel sheets.

12:26 PM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/400X300mm-Optical-PMMA-Plastic-Solar-DIY-Projector-Fresnel-Lens-Plane-Magnifier/173888690387?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3De933d6a93a0b44de82850b635052fc69%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D173237424531%26itm%3D173888690387%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

12:28 PM

also, consider using a "heating element" inside a clear container that you hit with a magnifier to steadily heat it

12:29 PM

something like a piece of black cast iron or similar, that way you're not just burning holes in the plastic, but making a solar-powered heat chamber. (edited)

Yeah, but I want to make a design which resembles solar cooker.

12:31 PM

I have narrowed the design down to circular collected and Hexagonal collector

I was able to hard boil an egg in a black-painted jar set in half a tinfoil covered box, as such

12:35 PM

12:36 PM

the air in the jar hard boiled an egg, and I call it that because even when it was cracked open and poured inside, it came out as an egg disc XD

but that meant a crude 3rd grade construction out of mostly trash got about 100c. don't over-engineer (edited)

I need a temperature of at least 200C as working temperature.

I'm aware, but in my design, there were no magnifiers. make it large enough, and you can melt salt.

Yeah, I’m working on that.

if it's just a point, you're looking at possibly 200-400c easily (edited)

1:16 PM

but the issue is getting that heat to stay still, in the object you're heating, which is where the cast iron comes in.

Nah, I need an area of of at least 1sqm to 2sqm

then you're going to need a magnifier the size of a house.

1:17 PM

you're much better off making a heated chamber that size

What if it’s a concentrator with Aluminium material

eeeh... you're still fighting air taking away your heat.

1:18 PM

and thermal radiation increases the hotter you get, meaning the hotter something is, the more easily it cools down a set amount

1:22 PM

air is a pretty good insulator if you can keep it in a box.

1:22 PM

I would suggest something like this:

?

gimme a sec

Okay

1:34 PM

basically, a metal box with a number of small windows in it, and behind each window, a black oxide treated piece of metal, or something similar, to make the heating elements. (edited)

1:35 PM

this should get pretty hot inside, just, I'm not sure about the 200c part

1:35 PM

maybe if you use some kind of insulation around the box it'll work.

1:36 PM

putting the heating elements lower will be more efficient, because less heat will be lost out the window, and you want the windows as small as possible

@nubnubbud won't hot air escape through the windows?

not if they're windows. they would if they were just holes

1:37 PM

also, if you're super fancy, use double-paned glass.

1:38 PM

this would also need a mount to track the sun, etc.

1:40 PM

or you could do what I did and paint the box black, and reflect as much light as you can onto it with mirrors, though a big box takes a huge set of mirrors.

alright, got the nozzle configuration set. the tube is within .5mm of a number of standard pipes from around the world, and 22 is pretty common in a number of places too

@energy @Deleted User This was the solar powered extruder: https://www.instagram.com/p/BxcHA3IFymW/ (Didn't find any plans online yet though)

3

Ok, so it's closed chamber that is heated. Interesting challenge to make an oven based on that concept

@Kat : i think the pic makes it clear - no plans need though

1

2:05 PM

ah, doesn't seem a regular extruder - no idea ...

@Arseniy (PL) no, it then gets divided a second time with the chain and sprocket. Sales are partially to college thesis student projects, some government agencies, entrepreneurs, and small businesses

I work @ a university and got a couple of grants to get machines built, but I can't find blueprints for the 3 Pro versions of the machines. Are they there and I can't find them? are there only the video tutorials for the new machines?

@Professor_Corbin Would you be willing to share your grant proposals?

Absolutely, one of them is for a Keep Louisiana Beautiful grant ( a subsidiary of Keep America Beautiful ). The way I see it the more people combating the problem the better! if my wording and justifications can help others get there I'm all for it. I would need to clean it up a bit to make it public and post-able (removing names and such) and I have a few too many irons in the fire to tackle it right now. But if you want it for personal use hit up my email covherc@nsula.edu and I'll send you what I've got. Put PreciousPlastic grant info in the subject so I don't think its email trash, same goes for other interested parties.

@Professor_Corbin Just sent you an email. Thanks!

Hello do anyone now what we had to wipe on the mould so that the plastic is not sticky? I'm thinking making a medal using recycle plastic somehow it's to sticky when I do the compression process.

1

@zila well there are special sprays you can buy, mould release

8:21 AM

Or search on YT for what people use instead of specialized compounds :)

8:22 AM

Also remember to include draft angle in your model's vertical faces

@zila also consider the temperature of what you're injecting. some mould releases might not be that nice/might gas off at 200c+

Yo PP v4 people. I'm having a hard time understanding why there is a arduino involved in the shredder pro control circuit. As the same function could be achieved with more basic parts, for a similar cost(/cheaper if you get it from scrap or scavenge it) Can anyone shed some light as to the thinking behind the arduino intergration?

9:10 AM

(Dunno if this is the right channel for this)

@TRM user-fiendliness

arduinos are dirt cheap control units, that allow you to modify the code easily and to suit your personal use cases

@TRM could you maybe help developing an alternative solution?

get a cheap one to do only that, or get a bigger one with more slots, to do things like add a mixing arm or a timer

9:12 AM

the really small cheap ones go for like 8 bucks.

I can see the utility of a timer. But from a Electricians point of view it seems more complex than is strictly required for driving a motor with forward and reverse functions

also I'm looking and I don't see one on the blueprints I got

https://github.com/davehakkens/shredder-reverse/blob/master/Schematic.pdf

davehakkens/shredder-reverse

code for reverse system on big shredder. Contribute to davehakkens/shredder-reverse development by creating an account on GitHub.

9:14 AM

Thats the one im looking at

@TRM remember that everything is being done by volunteers so if somebody is familiar with some technology is easier and faster to include it as a proof-of-concept instead of looking for an ideal solution

9:16 AM

But now we are at the point where we can iterate and search for optimal solution

Absolutely, I'll see if I can find some decent ready made diagrams, Or draw up what im thinking

https://youtu.be/MlYdd5I33Oo?t=361 for builders, remember, this is always an option if you have a lathe or order parts! I totally forgot about this, though I've seen it done before!

11:22 AM

you can freeze one pipe, and heat the other, to friction fit them together. weld it if that's not enough!

how much force is needed to pull a shaft up, after injection? don't want to overspec this thing too hard.

@TRM: Arduino & friends (industrial variants) gives us a nice platform to enrich PP for more machine variants which are now more and more requested by schools, startups, fab labs, universities and now also shops, restaurants, bars. As one of the very few open source contributors, we're exited to see increasingly the fruits of having such open platform. It isn't just about the motor but also extrusion (touchscreen for profiles,..), automatic injection, etc.. We encountered recently a larger client (mineral water company) who wants to place a vending like shredder machine all over the planet. In the first revision alone (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/asterix) I could spot around 20 sensors and there are many other things to be built on top : plastic scanner, barcode scanner, etc... Having it open-source and easy to hack/mod is a unique chance for us as vendors (with DIY roots) to en-flourish the PP eco system in many directions. Here are some other systems still to be developed : https://github.com/plastic-hub/firmware. At some point we may switch to better quality PLCS but for now, we just got started

Does this make sense ? I am happy to see your ideas. As for the shredder, we're rally happy have a very fine control over the Motor via Arduino->VFD. In our auto-reverse version, we could optimize the shredder experience to a max, saving also lots of time and energy

I am opting-in as next the hall sensor - which gives us a way to add energy saving profiles. (edited)

does anyone here have much experience with shaft couplings?

@nubnubbud : shoot your questions just, this is the build channel of PP

well, the best option for me at the moment is to simply have a rigid shaft coupling from the lead screw to the plunger, but While I recognize a little twisting or pressing together isn't much of an issue, is there much suction when raising the plunger, and if so, would it be enough to pull a smooth shaft or the lead screw out of the coupler?

@nubnubbud that's the disadvantage of your lead screw design - you have to invent some smart coupler. So ideally you want plunger part to not rotate while still being fixed to the screw

(I intend to use a slitted coupler for maximum gripping friction)

12:20 PM

I was thinking, actually, a rotating plunger might mitigate some of the suction issue.

What is your piston diameter? And the screw's? (edited)

lead screw is 8mm, plunger is 20

12:20 PM

and both have to fit inside a 20mm tube

12:21 PM

yeah, I know XD

Hmm, 8 mm? Around 200 kg?

12:21 PM

How long do you want it to be? And how long the piston is?

it should work if the force is compression or tension along its length and a nut at the top, and by using a properly set rigid coupling, I can enforce it. (edited)

It'll bend 100% in the middle

12:24 PM

Hell, they bend from looking at them even on 3d printers sometimes

all the bent ones I saw on 3d printers were from shipping. they don't actually hold up uneven weight in most designs.

I'd suggest to use thicker one anyway

12:27 PM

But regardless, the coupling - could you plz attach a pic of what you want to use?

(my original design was a 12mm lead screw)

12:28 PM

https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000021514/?CategorySpec=00000043702%3a%3amig00000001444726%0900000043726%3a%3amig00000001444724%0900000043616%3a%3anvd00000000000002%2cmig00000001444711%2cmig00000001531650 https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000130100/?CategorySpec=00000043702%3a%3amig00000001444726%0900000043726%3a%3amig00000001444724%0900000043616%3a%3anvd00000000000002%2cmig00000001444711%2cmig00000001531650

12:29 PM

these are the two, but I'm not good at calculating the suctional force of melted plastic in a g6 tolerance tube, so the various values don't mean too much for me

12:30 PM

the more expensive one will definitely work- I've used a compression fitting before, but it's several times the price of most other options, more than the entire plunger!

I think i have a more primitive solution for you

is it a hole and pin?

Axial hole in in the piston with a diameter and depth to loosely fit a nut screwed on your screw. You insert the nut and cover it with the thick plate/washer which is screwed to the piston

12:34 PM

Captive nut

12:34 PM

Screws rotates, piston doesn't, but it's pushed down by the screw (edited)

12:36 PM

When unscrewing, the nut on the end of screw pulls the washer up and the piston with it

12:37 PM

It might not work but at least you can test it without ordering anything

hmmm, that's a lot of machining, that I know how to do, but don't want to for 10 or so machines...

12:39 PM

that is, manually, without power tools besides a hand drill

12:41 PM

there has to be some other kind of caveman tech to use...

@nubnubbud hmm 1 large hole and say 4 m6 holes to fix the washer...

Hi, I have been quoted 1600 euro for the laser cut parts for shredder V4, including hardox parts, is that good price or bad based on your experience?

@Petr Hlinka have you checked the bazar for ready kits/parts?

Assembled shredder is running for 4500 euro since i last checked

But yeah I see what you mean about having a arduino to add versatility and expandability

yeah, when things settled and those machine can enter finally public spaces, we're of course moving over to custom PCBs and the like

1:24 PM

if someone knows a mid range Arduino compatible PLC, I am all open ears - we're looking for one with ~30 IO pins, mod-bus & I2C capable (edited)

arduino, as far as I know, use atmega chips.

1:30 PM

as in, you could build an arduino on a breadboard if you have an atmega chip.

1:31 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sww1mek5rHU < a guide on moving from arduino to embedded microchips

thanks, but nah, need something robust & plug'n play - life is hard enough

1:35 PM

actually, looking at PI & friends, then setup becomes relative trivial and there's space for touchscreen and comes with WIFI (metering,...) : https://www.linux.com/tutorials/6-industrial-touch-panel-computers-based-raspberry-pi/

Linux.com

6 Industrial Touch-Panel Computers Based on the Raspberry Pi - Lin...

In the smart home, voice agents are increasingly replacing the smartphone touchscreen interface as the primary human-machine interface (HMI). Yet, in noisier industrial and retail IoT environments, touchscreens are usually the only choice. The industrial touch-panel computer ...

oh, you're going for an ultimaker vibe.

1:36 PM

the nice touch screens, plug it in and it starts with presets, customer support, etc.

exactly - yeah, we may add also fume sensors and the like - best would be having manuals, profiles, etc.. on it -

Remember to connect to wifi so my shredder could use Twitter! /s

lol, you mean like at the beginning of IoT ? '2014 : we could put a chip inside...', later on in 2017, 'f** this, let's put a chip inside', lol

1:44 PM

see : https://twitter.com/internetofshit?lang=en

personally, the reason I like my cr-10 printer is because it's as barebones as possible. if something's wrong with it, I always know how to fix it because all the components are right there, and I know all the computer in it does is move the motors and heat the heaters

1:46 PM

enthusiasts like smart products because they're easy to use, engineers hate them because they know more parts means more things to go wrong.

1:47 PM

I wouldn't trust my computer if I didn't build it myself XD

1

@Arseniy (PL) the idea is indeed building screens (in progress), ie: 'PP recycled xxx tons today, created 3 jobs today, saved xx kilowatts, prevented xxx tons chemistry due to single stream recycling artefacts,....' (edited)

1:50 PM

because, we really need more folks getting into

it's happening guys

PlasticHub-BCN have you seen the Duet boards?

1:55 PM

They're 32 bit RepRap 3D printer boards with an enormous amount of customisability, and they're completely open source. So you could potentially even modify them to suit your needs.

1:55 PM

That is; after prototyping on the full price board.

cream, features GPLv3 and CERN HW license - right on the money, thanks a lot !

You ain't seen nothing yet.

I love the GCODE interface, makes it perfect for a PP automatic injection addon on

Go ask some questions on duet3d's forums and I BET dc42 will respond within 24 hours. He's one of the lead devs.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) - you're right - i am burried too much in production since a while

Helped me learn how to built multiple geometries of 3D printer.

imagine a unified machine where plastic bottles go in the top, and injected pieces come out the bottom in series.

or printed - that's on my list though

I'd personally prefer the machines to be separate, but that's just because I'd like to be able to tinker with them individually.

2:00 PM

Oh BCN; I may have just been talking to you on FB. I'm James Rowlands.

oh, let me check - that's a while ago I guess; will ping you sson again, lunch time - lot's of brain food here today - thanks guys !

I personally run about 5 Duet2 boards. This video shows one of the reasons they're amazing for prototyping; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyWolKFzb-A

David Crocker

How not to treat your 3D printer electronics

1

they probably have components to make it very hardy against shorts and improper wiring, like arduinos are.

Yes; much more than the budget printer boards.

I still remember when I got my first printer, and wired it up, and plugged it in, and the cord exploded, so I called in and they were like "oh, our instructions are for the old board. the power supply leads are opposite on the new one."

2:27 PM

and by that point absolutely everything had fried parts.

2:28 PM

so I took it apart and I'm a proud owner of... way too many spare parts.

2:28 PM

they did refund it, at least.

Ohh boy. That's a pretty big screwup for instructions.

yeah, the exposed 220v mains cords shocked me as they tore loose. if it wasn't someone as lucky as me they could've killed someone. (edited)

So many like that still.

2:44 PM

Cowboy shit.

2:44 PM

And little to no effort to make people aware.

to be fair, it was the bottom of the barrel at the time, before the cr-10 came out, full kit. it was obviously a clerical error in the company, putting the wrong instructions in the right box, because they had just switched their power supplies to (get this) safer, lead-shielded supplies.

2:48 PM

benefit of the doubt, because even the guys on the phone had no clue they switched power supplies and were freaking out a bit.

2:51 PM

it was when flsun was just starting out. I think

@cellsmanado that's probably wrong channel? Maybe try #deleted-channel ?

Ups sorry I was wrong

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) - ah found you back in my messed up FB account ! For anyone else: Mortar created a general recycling wik and evtl. we merge precious-plastic.org. I think the french group is also working something like this ( @Nick - PP France ) ? So with the PP system we have then 3-5 systems about recycling. Time to consolidate, guys. Let me check how this could look, we have as mentioned a new wiki language in progress which can deal with all. we're very happy to see that. Was thinking to team up with OSE as well ... (edited)

@Deleted User new language? Do you think it's needed? Can't it be just wiki?

not new, all based on Markdown (and HTML) - just building on top of it (https://github.com/plastic-hub/lang/blob/master/natives.md). and yes, after documenting own production, and projects, we need a few enhancements like display filters (basic, advanced, language and automatic unit conversion) and a bunch of other things, making it possible that anyone can contribute and course enabling interop among different systems. (edited)

@Deleted User do you have a working prototype to look at maybe deployed on some server?

yes, but it's all buggy as hell right row - let's continue this in galaxy#language. the pipe is Markdown (academy,...) -> Stencil (turns it into an app with rich widgets) -> HTML.

ahm, somebody asks us we could do the sheetpress for 1.20 x 2.40 meter sheets. I guess we won't get away with scaling the current design just. Anyone knows it's possible to sync multiple hydraulic jacks via electronic valves ? Those would need sort scales for feedback then I guess.

@Deleted User you can connect multiple cylinders to the same pump i guess?

that's the idea yeah - makes me headache just thinking about

I still want to try rollers to produce flat plastic sheets...

yeah, that's plan B - just I've got not enough infos on this. But isn't it that just pumping all jacks up til it can't anymore would do. I can imagine to build the upper structure for that

Yeah, that would be a behemoth

and 64 Amps

Such big envelope kind of asks to use gravity and floor as the base

mh, deal !

5:04 PM

great, thanks mate

5:05 PM

now let's find a car fitting on it

While I was working out the parts, I was also building a 3D model to make sure it all worked, mechanically. here's how my design roughly looks.

1

8:49 PM

8:52 PM

that's a really long lead screw, I know, but if you store it in the depressed state, it shouldn't be able to bend much in any case, except at the top. the delrin nut attaching it will probably be enough to handle the twisting and swaying when it's up (which it should only be when supported by hand anyway.)

@nubnubbud hmm for some reason I was thinking you are going to fasten the nut to the pipe itself (at the top)

8:53 PM

that way you don't need all that construction at the top

nah, there'd be no way to get the plastic in if I did (edited)

8:53 PM

and that is a good point.

hmm, maybe a cutout in the pipe...

8:54 PM

or just a hole and a funnel

like I said, goal#1 of this thing is to be able to be shipped and constructed as-is, or with a couple hand tools at most

oh, I misunderstood that

8:55 PM

you are going to sell that?

so if someone wants a precious plastic injection machine on the cheap in their apartment, they can have it for 500 bucks

8:56 PM

you can just cut plastic up manually, and throw it in.

wait, but if you want to sell it, isn't it better to build it using cheaper materails than alu extrusion?

8:57 PM

you can bolt steel square tubes as well

just saying, that entire vertical bit, those two tall struts? those are 14 bucks.

8:57 PM

total, 7 each

what is this extrusion? 4040?

2060x500

8:58 PM

misumi's aluminum extrusion is cheaper than openbuilds!

I was asking about the top and middle ones - the ones that actually bear the stress. is it also 20 ?

2020

ouch

the one modification that I'll have to figure out, is if I need some allthread tension rods on either end of the pipe

9:00 PM

but that's what testing is for

9:01 PM

as well, the plunger for this is 12 bucks! I really worked on optimizing the price~

personally I think current version is a bit underbuilt but hey, I like to be surprised

(edited)

underbuilt just means highly modifiable when it's made out of these.

9:02 PM

but also, they are pretty strong. I've never seen one bend

well, if it's an endproduct, it doesn't need to be modifiable i think. It's not like software development where you can just refactor existing code to perform better...

9:04 PM

anyway, don't want to discourage you, wish you success

9:04 PM

plz show it in action once built

I think exactly the opposite, like the CR-10. it's underbuilt, does what it does and nothing more, but has tons of room for mods.

well, good point

...for example, that built in tube you mentioned. all you need is to get a new barrel and you can have that exact version of it yourself.

9:07 PM

all I'm doing is providing a workable base.

9:08 PM

at the cheapest possible price for such a design, to get people started

@nubnubbud don't you think the ones who'll probably modify it will actually build it from scratch themselves?

maybe, I won't stop anyone, it's a simple machine.

9:11 PM

but the reason I keep referring to the CR-10, is that it's the same way. it's barebones, has no special features, made of extrusions, but it works better because of the simplicity, is reliable, and is cheap. because of those reasons, there is a huge fanbase around it,

9:11 PM

9:12 PM

to the point that everyone makes mods for it!

9:12 PM

tinkerers love being able to share their ideas and methods.

9:17 PM

I don't expect that much, but I do expect people to figure out what works and what doesn't. I'm going to incorporate my first few mods into the base product, because nothing is right on the first try.

Hi! I'm an artist based in Pennsylvania in the USA and I have a couple of questions for the community. Has anyone ever experimented with recycling plastic into paint? I have found out that Rutgers has successfully recycled plastics into acrylic paint and Sherwin Williams has developed a way to recycle unused latex back into acrylic. Is there a way to safely recycle shredded plastic back into an acrylic paint?

https://patents.google.com/patent/CN1384162A/en this seems to be a patent for the process.

CN1384162A - Production process of converting waste plastic into p...

The present invention relates to a production process of converting waste polystyrene and other waste plastic directly into paint. Waste plastic, ethanol and acetone in the weight rati oof 6-7 to 1.5-2 to 1.5-2 are mixed with stirring, and deposited and separated to eliminate...

omg looks like a quite nasty process - mix a lot of pvc and aceton and heat it up for several hours. what can go wrong

Well to be honest, human beings have been painting with worse materials for centuries. I guess what I'm asking is it possible to grind plastic into a fine enough powder to mix in with water based or existing acrylic paints?

@thismaterialbody are you after texture then?

Yeah for sure.

I mean you can melt down colored ABS and paint with the slurry.

@nubnubbud hot slurry ;)

I think the goal is to turn it to a molecular powder with chemicals

I believe acetone and ethanol in that patent are meant to dissolve plastic but my Mandarin is a bit rusty to fully appreciate what they are doing :) (edited)

@thismaterialbody you could mix a powdered plastic in resin, maybe? Seems very experimental, but not to say you wouldn't get some good results.

10:51 PM

@thismaterialbody with out the use of a solvent or heat, i think the only way to use plastic as a pigment would be to trap it in something that sets hard. Resin could be good, but I guess also you could use PVA glue, which would be far less difficult to work with. I'm not sure how long it would last, though. You could also try wax or varnish?

does anybody know rough extrusion diameter - output relation?

11:37 PM

@Precious Plastic do you have information on this?

@Milan | QiTech what do you mean by "extrusion diameter - output relation"? Your output is how much plastic you put in the machine

@lechatblanc thanks for the feedback, it gives me somewhere to start

1

@Milan | QiTech I think what you might mean to ask is the extrusion nozzle diameter, and diameter of the extruded filament- they're both different and variable! you want to use a nozzle a bit bigger than the right size, an auto-spooler, and a sensor of some kind that constantly measures the filament's diameter, and makes slow, slight changes to the speed it winds the filament.

Hello all, just asking myself about the ones which sell their machines and how they supply mandatory technical documentation (e. g. manuals for installation and operation). Also how do you deal with approval processes and all the law-related thingies? (Of course, that all depends on where you build respectively sell your machines.) I ask this, because I'm kind of a specialist at this subject

Just thinking how I could possibly contribute (e. g. content for the Academy pages at the PP sites, consultancy, even a CMS for technical content and translations of that content). Cheers, Florian

1

@Arseniy (PL) @nubnubbud no i mean given a constant speed of lets say 10rpm what output is the max output possible of a 20mm / 30mm screw in a given time (lets say per hour). The Hopper is obviously always filled. to get comparable results

@lechatblanc I've been suggesting dual cylindrical shafts for a while.

You sent me a jpg of your dual cylindrical shaft design. Do you have a 3d model that I could open in Fusion360? @Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

Hey. Anybody tried the basic extruder against v4 pro extruder? How huge is the difference in productivity?

@Yann @dobermann#1223 When I quote as you can see there is strange numebr.

@lechatblanc hey. I don't. It was a mockup. Not a complete design.

3:17 PM

The idea was to demonstrate replacing both end plates with pillow bearings. But I would need to do the in depth design work on it once I've done my work on the machines I plan to build it with, and I'm now looking at the v4 dual rod shredder and wondering if I can mod that instead.

3:18 PM

Do you intend to continue producing the older design?

Yeah, I was thinking the non-pro shredder version. I'll have a play in Fusion and see If I can create anything useful.

So if you want to replicate my usage of the massive pillow bearing, I believe the the version I picked had a 60mm diameter for the shaft.

3:32 PM

This spacing with 2x 20mm rods allowed room on each of the knives for both rods to have good clearance.

3:33 PM

I think the first thing worth checking is if you can find the large pillow bearings locally at a good price. I could get them here in Aus reasonably.

Great advice, thanks. I'll keep you posted.

Please do if you have the time.

3:35 PM

I'd love for this idea to be helpful.

3:36 PM

My intention overall was to eliminate lathing, but also to make precision laser CNC'ing as a part of the process. If that's possible I think the cost of the shredder could drop. But I want to investigate if the same can be done for a beefier version of the v4 shredder myself. I'm just waiting for ideas to come to mind.

1

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) could you please just post your picture here?

@Arseniy (PL) @Mortar Art (Melb, AU) This is an image of the concept we were discussing. Is this what you mean? https://i.imgur.com/fp3xn70.jpg

@lechatblanc thx

10:33 PM

Just checked, such bearing system is around $20 for 50mm shaft. For v4Pro it's x4. I'm thinking about using bronze/polymer bushings instead since the RPM is so low on shredder. Bushings are $2 :)

$20 is about what I can get them for here.

10:03 AM

To me that

10:04 AM

*To me that's acceptable. Considering that's a pretty big part.

10:06 AM

My hope with a v4 design is that I can figure something else out.

Yeah, roughly £25 in UK for 60mm diameter.

any screws for the v4 extruder available on the bazaar?

12:59 PM

or what type of CNC is needed to mill that big thing

Hello! I am new in this community and I am really happy to be part of it. I have a question. It´s posible to create a multi-injection machine by introducing a harder structure in the version 1 compression machine? you could introduce several stackable moulds or is the pressure not enough to fill the mould? Initial machine costs will be lower and moulds cost higher but I think you will take less time to produce each pp product. I take advantage of this message to ask if their is any build space happy to recibe me and introduce me in building techniques.

well, a common way to handle multi-extrusion is to simply have two molds.

2:10 PM

one mold for one color, and one mold that fits said part- and a space beside it for the new color.

@nubnubbud maybe I haven´t express well. By saying multi-injection I didn´t refer to doble injection of a same final product. I meant to say several molds of the same final product injected AT THE SAME TIME in the version 1 compression machine. With a higher compression of the machine and the correct temperature different moulds could be filled. If its still hard to understand I can draw a section explaining it.

@humberto it's common to have double or quadruple moulds sharing the same intake

7:45 PM

It's not even the pressure that matters, mostly the volume of plastic to fill the mould

Got a question on temperature controllers. Can you give a name or link to a controller that can be configured/programmed to follow a cycle? Like, 30 mins at 100C then 40 mins at 200C etc

https://smartpid.com/ not sure though - but it says it can be programmed

@Deleted User thanks! My bad, I should've specified better - I'm looking for something either opensource or available on aliexpress.

it will be relative expensive, as alternative: you can interface a thermocouple (Max6675) via Arduino as well control the relay.

11:47 PM

there are also PID algorithms/libs out there

11:50 PM

i've got some setups here in the shelf, if you need a hand with coding or so ...

11:55 PM

have a try here : https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/pid-controller-with-modbus.html | evtl. you can find one of these somewhere on aliexpress too. not sure how you wanna interface this thing, you could control those via arduino -> modbus

pid controller with modbus, pid controller with modbus Suppliers a...

Alibaba.com offers 419 pid controller with modbus products. About 57% of these are Temperature Instruments. A wide variety of pid controller with modbus options are available to you, such as usage, theory.

@Deleted User actually looks like smartpid is on GitHub (although last commit was like 3 years ago), will investigate. Thanks again!

Hello everyone ! Some of you have been working on upgrading machinery upto CE standard? There are not so much informations about it. I'm working on it and i'm open to sharing. Thank you!

Still searching for a place to get the screw made for V4 extruder, has anybody started building the v4 machine yet?

@Deleted User hi, could you please share what you were able to find thus far? Do you know what is lacking?

Would be great to write an How to on the topic of „Getting the machines CE ready“. It was a subject which was on the list for v4 as well, but there was not enough time in the end to fully cover that topic. I will start a google document on that and invite everyone who is interested - what do you think? @Deleted User @Arseniy (PL)

2

@Fritz @easymoulds sure!

12:36 PM

Just checked the europa.eu 'ce marking' page (sorry can't paste a link) - it's a very nice piece of documentation . Seems like to get CE label for any PP machines (assembled) an assesment by a Notified body needs to be performed as those machines clearly fall under one of the categories listed in Annex IV of Directive 2006/42/EC on Machinery. 'Notified bodies' are just institutions/for-profits-companies in each of the EU countries. CE marking required to market product in the EU.

12:38 PM

And there are couple of other directives that require checking for compliance (possibly by manufacturers themselves without 3rd party institution - needs to be verified) like RoHS and already mentioned LVD

1

sorry can't paste a link If you're on mobile, try a long press (about ½ a second) on the text input field. I get a "paste" pop-up. But I have a custom, full on-screen keyboard, so I generally Ctrl+V. To copy text / URLs from a desktop screen, quickly, try an online QR generator.

@Frederik C (ZA) thanks for advice, but I was actually reading on a big screen of a corporate pc at work ;) and it's a bank so discord and such are banned

1

does anyone have the cad files for inventor or know which program the cad files are for?

I've opened them with fusion360.

You can open the .step files with all CAD programs. Native is SolidWorks 2018

laser cut a wood shredder blade template today.

when it comes to shredding stuff, it kinda feels like a blender and a sieve might do perfectly fine, wouldn't it?

4:18 AM

like, a big one.

Whats the template for? Casting?

Guys, have you seen anywhere the calculations/experimentation data for shredder? Like, calculations for torque / rpm / power / shaft diameter?

Data for Torque, rpm and power here (but no calculations): Shredder: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder Shredder pro: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro Calculations from the forum (V3): https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculations-required-for-shredder/ https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/almost-definitive-guide-on-motors-wip/

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto thx!

9:17 AM

Something doesn't add up - where the insane 1000nm torque came from, does anybody know?

9:22 AM

Ok,i see now, it's because of very low rpm of 25

9:24 AM

But still, it should be 840nm for the motor of given minimal power 2.2kW.

considered the gear box?

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto you mean efficiency of the worm drive? If we take it into account then the torque value will be even smaller - for the gearboxes i see on the market (helical worm gear) is around 85% so the output will be 840*.85=714nm

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto not sure I understand. I'm trying to understand where 1000nm comes from. 2.2kW motor at 25RPM produces max 840nm (assuming 100% efficiency)

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto 25rpm comes from your link for shredder pro

11:50 AM

Your calculation only works when you use a motor without gearbox for your shredder axle.

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto not sure what do you mean by that - torque is dependent on power and rpms only (ommiting efficiency) (edited)

For the V4-Shredder the calculation should be the same. No, the torque is changed by the gearbox.

No, the torque is changed by the gearbox.

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto which formula do you use? I feel like I'm missing something here. Gearbox trades rpm for torque. So when we convert motor's, say, 1400rpm into 25rpm (56:1 reduction) with a gearbox we get increase of 56 times torque.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) No more of a test to see the scale of the blade in real life. I will work on laser cutting the AR400 blades in the coming day or two.

@Arseniy (PL) You are right, it should be 840 for the 2200W, but i think they took tho 3000W for Minimum, because 3000 - 4000W is recommended. For 3000W it is 1146Nm... (edited)

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto so it's still a mystery...

I think the 2200W (or the 1100Nm) is just wrong there and the minimum power for the V4-Shredder should be about 3000W. Maby someone from the V4-Team can say that? @Fritz @easymoulds ?

the minimum power for the V4-Shredder should be about 3000W.

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto is this opinion based on calculation? If yes, could you please share which shear stress value was used for which plastic?

No, thats just the interpretation from the website. We can calculate the power theoretically, but the experimental data and experces from the already build V4-shredder will always be more exactly. Maby the V4-guys can say wich power is enough for wich plastic. 3500W for PET for example...

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto what I'm seeing is morrentrading for example is using two 1.1kW motors.

And do you know wich plastic you will shred? For thin PP it should work with two 1100W-Motors i think... (edited)

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto well, it's not like shredders can shed only one type of material. It will shred everything that has the shear stress value less than the maximum value for the shredder.

1:41 PM

So, same question again - did anybody see calculations behind v4 pro shredder? How the axle size was chosen for example?

hey, we decided to understand v4 as follows - also to avoid re-researching all over again (expensive) and be confident about what we sell, even though it might get a little risky but still predictable and yet affordable to replace a motor just : v4 as is : the upper extreme (400v) - rather exotic clientel who is interested in big things like bricks and shred really thick stuff v4 for the regular v3 clientel : cut the voltage by half, increase watt (shredder = 3Kw, extruder = 3kw) by 30% what remains open is the upper 140 RPM for the v4 extruder - which is insane fast for an extruder so we assume it's for bigger molds as the bricks - only I guess, so we we stick to 40 - 80 RPM for now

(edited)

2:08 PM

but yeah, would be great to see the actual research data - because there is indeed folks who take insane mortgages to buy into v4 whilst not really knowing what they getting into.... (edited)

@Deleted User do you maybe know who's behind v4 shredder out of v4 team? Somebody had to do the calculations/experiments to determine machine parameters to build. I'm afraid that this knowledge could be lost if not published

Arseniy; if you get to this data, can you please tag me?

I remember a hole bunch of guys working on that beast - and I've seen experiments with extreme large/thick pieces and I can only guess they went higher and higher because of that really big pieces to be shredded

The guys are here from time to time - you can just hope they see that discussion here though :-) But hey, you will be fine with a dual axle shredder as Morrentrading has, 1-2 Kw . ( @Landry , @Pacoacu13 is your friend ) (edited)

One thing I personally wonder is if there's value in having a fly wheel on shredder axles, as this might help maintain torque when the teeth grind into something thick.

may be for a human powered one-off fun shredder, I wont do it for many reasons (safety,...)

How's it affect safety?

well, for a commercial shredder you have to wrap it up. moving parts are a nogo

Ohh.

there is quite some folks getting killed at lathes because of hairs and what not ...

Yeah. My first job was a fitter and turner.

2:31 PM

Fortunately not dead.

2:31 PM

But a fly wheel shouldn't be anywhere near as dangerous. I guess the distinction is in the type of workplace.

2:32 PM

The level of OH&S training.

flyhwheel : yeah, if you make it big enough, like 1m, and really heavy, like 200KG or so, you could be fine with a single phase motor and a pulley system - not sure though because shredding speed is rather low and I don't think you can pickup enough inertia to make sense of it.

you can make them lighter if you make them wider.

2

@Arseniy (PL) Did you already saw this: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/v4-shredder-double-axis-indexblog-4/ ? No word about calculations what i saw.

Yann

V4 Shredder Double Axis – [INDEX+BLOG] - Dave Hakkens

Hey community, We are 3 guys to work on the V4 shredder double axes, Landry (@landry) from France – a industrial designer and engineer, Paco (@pacoacu13) from Spain – mechanical engineer, - Dave Hakkens

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto haven't seen this, thanks a lot!

nice flywheel setup : https://www.instagram.com/p/B73j7Xinfe8/

1

10:19 PM

just got the v4 screw, omg - was amazing to hold this beast in my hands - 3cm flight width, imagine to pump plastic at 140 RPM : https://www.instagram.com/p/B73P_kTibq4/

Speed isn't too much of a factor, if the machines can be made more cheaply, and use less power.

12:28 AM

I'm more interested in encouraging people to make chips in large domestic / business situations during peak days for renewable energy.

2

12:28 AM

That is; have a hopper loaded up, ready to go.

Hey everybody, somebody has an idea how to detect that a drawer is full of plastic flakes ? The drawer itself is on rails and has a spring loaded door which opens when you slide it into the machine as well it has wheels (like trolley). It's made from stainless sheets. Possibly an ultra sonic sensor could work but not sure those cheap ones do the trick. (edited)

@Deleted User Some kind of IR recepter/emitter to see if something blocks the light path ?

lots of sensors will do the job! IR sensors would be good for stainless containers, as you can simply bounce the light off the inside of the container to check if it's full or not. weight/pressure/tension sensors may be used to determine the exact weight in a container. alternatively, you could periodically lift it, and turn it over. that way you can be sure it's empty!

yeah that's that I had on mind first but I think just invites the flakes/dust to get through that hole and since it's all statically charged it might cover the sensor as well - not sure (edited)

1:09 PM

pressure sensor: mh, didn't thought about this - i guess that's quite harder to add.

ah, I think I got it : since the plastic type as well the fill rate based on observation is known - as well the shred time (there is a 'drawer loaded sensor') , I could estimate 'full' just in the software. kinda solved - thanks guys

.

1:27 PM

unless somebody - re- shreds, damn .

This might be a bit of an oddball one, but what about you put an LED strip about 70% down the inside of the container, and light sensors around the rim of the container.

1:29 PM

And when the light sensors can't see light from the LED (you could use a specific wavelength) you're done.

1:29 PM

Because the LED is covered.

@nubnubbud the best way to go with a flywheel is locating it on the fastest shaft, make as wide and thinnest as possible having in mind that the energy stored in it depends on the mass and speed. In the shredder case it would be better to lacate it the motor shaft.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) : that's genius, let me check - I think I am out of pins for that, on a ArduinoMega.

I think you can get chips which just give an open-closed output based on detecting light.

1:35 PM

I have another, potentially simpler idea. But I need to draw it.

1:38 PM

1

1:39 PM

So this idea has a door on the top of the inside of your box that is on a hinge.

1:39 PM

As the box fills up with flakes, this pushes the door up until it hits a limit switch.

1:40 PM

Any sort of raised hinged object that responds to the correct amount of pressure would work for this.

yeah - awesome - let me try this in CAD, not entirely sure yet - how this works

Hopefully you get something.

1

1:48 PM

Ohhh, something I often go on about. If you want switches and sensors, break down E-waste.

1:48 PM

Printers for example have heaps of useful stuff in them, from plastic, to stepper motors and endstops.

yeah - thanks already a million - there is some challenges like plastic getting into the switch/sensor over time. and yeah, I have shelfs full of that stuff, we pulled that out of the urban waste containers (heist like, at night)

Oh nice.

Hello! Question about building the shredder in north america (motor & power): I have a 1:30 worm gear reducer box and am trying to figure out which motor to buy and have run into hours of dead ends. Our outlets are 120V, through we could potentially get up to 220V. A lot of motors I find online that are around 3 HP have too high of RPM. Is finding a motor to fix these requirements possible? I'd love to hear what other people have done or thoughts from someone more knowledgable than myself. (I am a student trying to build this for my university makerspace and have little background in electricity)

What do you guys think about electric griddles for small(er) scale melting? I'm thinking like....two electric griddles that would work like the heat press......if I could figure out how to add pressure without them exploding I feel like it could work

@anna_lynton Have a look here: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/almost-definitive-guide-on-motors-wip/

beltran

(Almost) Definitive guide on Motors (WIP) - Dave Hakkens

Hey everybody, I’ve summarised a bit of the various posts on the motors that can be found around in this forum, and wrote this Google Doc that you can all see, comment and edit. check it - Dave Hakkens

@h0neycrumb Check out T-shirt presses. They're like large flat irons (sort of) and when properly hacked make for a nice low pressure hand press.

@CitSciWorkshop oh shoot! that would work perfectly! thanks for the tip ❤️

No problem! Usually the heat element is the lid, so I just took that off and measured the mount holes and made that the bed. It works great for quickly testing molds.

@🤙v4-team : are there changes in the solidwork files to be added ? just asking because it seems to take us quite some days to group components, etc... Also, can we make a PR with the new version of it ? thanks a lot

Another thing, I was wondering how to improve the extrusion process (custom firmware via arduino) : How about a foot-pedal : eg : hold = extrude, release = stop ? Also, that way it may make sense to measure the time and save at as preset for injection moulding, together with the VFD speed. It would need then a only flip switch : manual and repeat. there is actually quite some stuff for gamers & musicians out there : https://www.amazon.es/Moukey-Bluetooth-Cambiador-Tableta-Android/dp/B07JFNHNN1/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_2/258-2964151-9776416?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JFNHNN1&pd_rd_r=0ee2c43f-3b7d-4353-89d8-273a12ad5c4f&pd_rd_w=VLN67&pd_rd_wg=v8kdw&pf_rd_p=86c37ee7-52d9-436f-a312-1b7beff34614&pf_rd_r=GCT5D41VM9Y53X4MMMGS&psc=1&refRID=GCT5D41VM9Y53X4MMMGS suggestions are welcome

@Deleted User i used sewing machine pedal for something like that

yeah, I need something as commercial addon

amazon is full those, 12 euro, easy to hook up

12:23 PM

ideally, this could be added to any v3/v4 extruder - in top of jam-detection.

12:24 PM

evtl, all via touchscreen controller

@Deleted User and my goal is to build this - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRGZQ5t4XCa8i84YT19OJEw

Andrey Korotkov

2

@Arseniy (PL) - yeah, having this since too long on my list too - everyone one wants this machine so badly

- at the end I thought it's better to build first the perfect extrusion controller (presets for speed & temps, footpedal, PID controller) which is happening right now btw. we have enough requests for v4 extruders and its relative easy to make. Here is the Github repo for all that : https://github.com/plastic-hub/firmware . I have also the basics done for the automatic injection. updates soon about. (edited)

12:46 PM

@Arseniy (PL) : will ping you on the galaxy server, I have the CAD and other stuff there

interlockable sheet press system in progress : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/sheetpress-cell we still have to figure how to have an Arduino compatible controller for the hyrdaulics

3

1

btw. there are 3 open challenges for this system - not sure though it's really possible but we try :

integrate thermo - forming
integrate cooling press
hydraulic

(edited)

Are there changes in the solidwork files to be added ? just asking because it seems to take us quite some days to group components, etc... Also, can we make a PR with the new version of it ? thanks a lot @Deleted User

Haven't heard about this problem. Works here. Anyone else it?

sure it works, it's just that it's not exactly easy to work with files like that, anyways our CAD guy is on it, no biggy (edited)

4:41 PM

sorting the step files in Fusion360 is quite harder btw.

@anna_lynton have your considered using a step-down gear of some sort to reduce speed and inprove torque?

Did somebody tried to source the v4 extruder parts already ? There are quite some exotic parts which are not really available to businesses in Spain (france, italy, netherlands at best). More or less, this feels like it's better to design this from scratch with more available parts - the whole bearing block part ends up in 1000 Euro.... However, the only non exotic part are the tapered bearings (SKF brand). Also, anyone tried a simpler design ? From my understanding the only real problem is to deal with the axial load - so in practice : 1. weld a register ring on the screw - then clean it on the lathe so that this ring sites on the taper bearing ( a bigger one as now) 2. make the taper bearing (which is below 50e) sit on a motor connection plate 3. eventually : make a housing seal the taper bearing - rather difficult anyways, we're handing this over to some more skilled guys than us. Eventually there is even a ready to go component out there which enables high axial load. (edited)

2:03 PM

since this is getting quite excessive, we're sharing the redesign and sourcing infos here : https://github.com/plastic-hub/pp-v4/tree/master/extrusion (edited)

hey guys, is there any project/example/document on how to process/melt/mold plastics into bricks or similar building blocks?

2:49 PM

(i know about ecobrics, but that's too time consuming)

@Deleted User regarding point 1 - I'd rather use spit collar - just a bushing on a lathe, saw it in half then screw two parts together on a shaft - that way you'd avoid welding.

2:57 PM

That Chinese screw has unknown weldability...

1

3:04 PM

On your pic the tapered roller bearings should rather be switched to be in the back to back orientation

3:05 PM

@LavRadis I guess you can create a mould a use mould injection/extrusion

it's welding fine - same for milling

3:06 PM

mh, thanks mate - i was wondering about the taper bearings too

That design is pretty common in spindles - I'm building one at the moment to be a milling attachment to the lathe (edited)

3:09 PM

Actually I'm not sure if such configuration isn't an overkill for this machine - maybe couple of simple roller bearings plus one thrust bearing would suffice

yeah - i am still puzzled - this will haunt me for a while.

3:12 PM

@LavRadis : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-extruded-plastic-bricks

3:13 PM

it's all we've got so far but i remember a kind of PP on steroids version for this, hang on

3:14 PM

@LavRadis : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUW7F2negQg

Ekojunto de Costa Rica

Construcción de casas ecológicas en plástico reciclado - Ekojun...

3:15 PM

would be great to know about the hazardous effects as well how much less flammable this is.

3:19 PM

Hello there ! My team and I are going to build the extrusion machine (version 3) and we are looking for a screw which suits Precious Plastic drawings. We are in Europe, any tips to get one quickly or who to contact ? thanks a lot guys

1

@Arseniy (PL) , found something a little more bigger : https://www.bearings-online.co.uk/item/3346/KOYO/HM801349HM801310-KOYO-Tapered-Roller-Bearing.html?vat_inc=false&currency=EUR&action=changecurrency&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4NTxBRDxARIsAHyp6gDpA-ngbWTVz6pgzw_xB6pPvh_jD1-G1Z3k6l9V0r1SeTa_2PzTM8waAkkuEALw_wcB ID: 40mm, OD: 82mm - this should be sufficient and also it seems to have way better load distribution for the reducers we use here since a while - having a much larger bearing radius than the one seen in v4.

@Deleted User since you don't need big rpm, the bigger the bearing the better :) just remember you always need a pair

yo, thanks mate

Anyone knows where the new 'basic' shredder files are (https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/en/listings/843716-shredder-v3-dot-1-kit-without-electric-system) ? Can't find it anywhere on Github nor in starterkits (which are also just zips made via Github).

yeah, pretty much all 'shredder' folders still use the old version

- even the community page points to the old version : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21; so where is v3.1 ? thanks in advance (edited)

Hey! Have someone know if its possible to shedder fishing nets to recycle them?

@Landry (shredder 3.1 files) ? thanks

Mmmm

I am not shure that a shredder would be the best option. It is to slow and it may jam the shaft. Has someone shredd ropes or clothes?

@iMack : i have seen good results with dual axle shredders dealing with jeans

8:33 PM

Recycling nylon PA6 (nets) came up a few times but we have no real data on it

That's a start!

you can ask the maledives team - they did some work this way .. check youtube, his name is paul or so

I would love to know more about the potential for recycling fishing nets as well

1

Maledives team recycled fishing nets then?

@MamaQuchaPerú - let me kick some doors and come back to this - will ping you via DM

Thank you some much!!!!!

8:36 PM

@Deleted User I would love an update as well if you’re willing

no biggy - have enough requests here too - send me your email

Are there downloadable blueprints already created that use US gauge materials, ie. English measurements like 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 inch and possible using 120V motors?

1

That could be a question for the North American channels?

Thanks for that. I posted there just now. Are you in Melbourne. Trying to make a shredder for my son and daughter there. Anywhere to get the parts cut for the shredder?

@Palomino Plastic we used Alliance Laser in Campbellfield, good pricing and fast service.

Did you have to make several for the good pricing or can I get a single set for them?? Which version of shredder did you make. That's not far from them in Kew and St. Kilda.

They do one offs, at least they did for us. V4 shredder

In Melbourne you probably want to use metric measurements.

7:49 AM

I'm in Windsor myself.

The reason to build them there is to make them in metric rather than build here in Seattle and ship. Any idea how much for just the shredder box. My son is a metal fabricator.

PPV would be best to answer that. But if your son is a fabricator, he can probably weld right?

7:52 AM

So you just need the laser cutting and possibly machining? Unless he can lathe the main shaft too.

Oh yes, quite well actually. The complete box with bearings and shaft would be what we need. No access to a lathe at the moment.

Have you seen the alternate plans which use a hex-bearing?

7:57 AM

Also, if you're still considering the v.3.1 shredder, a lot of people upgrade the shaft.

I have not. Hex shaft lathed down to the bearing size was the plan. All this done at Alliance laser?

Not sure.

8:02 AM

I personally had Ultimate Laser recommended to me before I went down the very long winded path of building my own CNC mchine.

8:02 AM

*machine ... which is not complete.

8:03 AM

Can I ask what your son and daughter have planned for the shredder from a business / community POV?

@Palomino Plastic What version are you building?

8:05 AM

Alliance only cut, they do not lathe or mill, you will need to get the shaft done elsewhere.

https://www.thebigbearingstore.com/206krr6-hpc100gp-1ah06-1-special-ag-bearing/ this was the bearing someone was discussing elsewhere. No idea if it fits the current design without much modification.

206KRR6, HPC100GP, 1AH06-1 Special Ag Bearing

Find all the bearings, bearing housings, v-belts, oil seals, collars you need and more including the 206KRR6, HPC100GP, 1AH06-1 Special Ag Bearing at theBigBearingStore.com

I am in the beginning phase of putting this all together. Creating a community in Seattle and trying to duplicate or at least advise my kids to do the same in Melbourne. Possibly to set it up for me to do what I can when I'm there. Thanks for the info. Lots to think about and act on as I'm able.

I'd be curious to work with people in the Inner South East ... ie St. Kilda to build a local community for this.

8:24 AM

So if you progress on this, let me know.

That's what it'll take. Both my kids are busy with school and work but have expressed an interest in this. It's a process that needs a lot of people to contribute and of course a lot of free time none of us really have.

8:39 AM

My name is Steve, what is yours?

James Rowlands. I'll be on here pretty frequently. I also have friends in Washington state.

8:41 AM

My main interest is on the information and design side.

I'm in Seattle. Please have them get in touch with me to coordinate efforts if that works for them. The shop I am working with is also interested in design and improving the process. Not sure where it will go or their involvement but I'm motivated to try to make a difference. In as many areas as possible.

That's what we are all here for to make a difference.

9:03 AM

The PP movement has and is gaining nice momentum.

Agreed. A

9:07 AM

nd getting more organized.

I think it requires a concerted effort to maintain the momentum.

hi, 'maintain the momentum' : since this is the build channel: From what I've learned doing a wiki and endless hours in the forum; people seem to search a lot for a cheap way into plastic recycling (according to wiki stats) - with zero budget or a few hundred bucks only. And there is this giant and often rather silent part who's just buying the machines for big $$ and do the thing just (private schools, handcrafts,..) . However, From our side we do a new library system to collect all those great ideas, machine variants but also completely new machines. Sometimes it needs just a picture to make a change and so this will be a fairly simple app : "The PP user submission", I hope we can migrate that content into the v4 how-to/library section some day. For now, we spotted so far a few dozen of projects, machines - quite stunning things so far. There is probably a few hundred more interesting projects/things on Instagram alone btw. You could employ easily 2-3 people for years to create such library - also adding pre-PP techniques, designs, projects,...

1

here's for instance a genius machine which could be built anywhere , it takes hand cut flakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4uGuTAm5jI& (edited)

AndysMachines

Plastic heat press machine

3

Love the way Andy uses the 17mm Allen key in his shredder.

1

Hey guys, building our first injection mold which will be the coaster!!! I’m using 1/4inch (6.35mm) steel plate for top and bottom. Do we need supporting braces to prevent warping or will this be good on it’s own? Thanks in advance!

Someone who has already build the injection machine? Of What inch the solid bar has to be?

I am not really happy with the v4 shredder design. the gear motor is very expensive, the motor couplers, also, and it is a lot of laser work. So instead we here at Precious Plastic Philippines are developing our own high speed shredder. We are estimating that the costing to be close to our v3 machine and double or more capacity. Blades are off the shelf wood planer blades, 5 hp electric motor, speed is 525 rpm belt driven.

2

5:17 AM

cutting width is 266.7mm.

1

I'm very interested to see what you come up with.

5:35 AM

Will you open source it? And would you mind chatting to me about which parts might require very accurate cutting, so I can potentially adapt it to plasma cutting?

@Butte (PP Philippines) have you seen this? https://youtu.be/D0lj4guJoBE

Ansari Machines

Scrap Grinder Machine | Ansari Machines

@sharma.sagar94 do you have a video without the music so you can hear how loud it is?

Here is it loud as a big circular saw: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYtiIpK53Rk (edited)

Mukesh Panchal

Plastic scrap grinder machine

what's exiting is that those machines are usually built for a fraction here in the EU

It´s crazy. Without any protection...

Hey everyone! I'm trying to build a shredder of my own for just PLA from 3D printers. What's the best setup for shredding 3D printed PLA, double axis or single? Also, what kind of torque should I be looking for in a motor? Also, I'm super new to this community so sorry if this is the wrong channel for these questions.

@Arseniy (PL) V4 extruder simplification : what you think, Do we get away with this ? Still a work in progress - no sealing yet in place. also, I couldn't figure why using 2 of them but no problem to add. Right now this could cut price already a lot .. (parametric solidworks CAD is here https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/obelix). Bearing : SKF 32007 - X

looking good

yeah, I am stunned, our new CAD guy, @3dSeed is doing his ninja thing, I can't remotely follow what he's doing at the screen, to me it's all porn

Are you guys answering people in DM, or do we need a build FAQ link? I'm not going to try answering build questions.

@Frederik C (ZA) : we do lots of DMs and invitations about this subjects

Okay, but everybody doesn't see that... so it looks kind of weird...

@Deleted User looking at the posted picture only, I only see one tapered roller bearing (yellow) - that won't work, they always need to be in pairs. Not sure I understand the function of a faceplate attached with white things -is it a bearing mount since the piece to the left can't be machined? Do you have a fusion 360 or sketchup model maybe? Don't want to pirate solidworks atm :p (edited)

@Deleted User aargh, I'm toocurious so installed SW viewer (installation process was such a shitshow, almost 300megs for a viewer, plus they require ton of personal data to sell their 'business partner'), fuuu. Anyway, looks like Obelix is a Shredder and injection is Zoe - https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/products/zoe/cad/Zoe.SLDASM

10:30 PM

@Deleted User so you'll need same flange on the other side o the gearbox with the second tapered bearing. Did you find a gearbox with a hollow shaft? What's the connection between that hollow shaft and the compression screw? it's not in the CAD

@Arseniy (PL) - hang on mate, will update this for fustion tomorrow - i am out for today

10:30 PM

but hey, thanks a million already

10:32 PM

we weld the screw into a 'shaft extension' and slide it into the motor, the motor plate will hold it back via taper and a register ring weld on the screw as well

I'm confused by 'slide into the motor' part - so your reductor/gearbox has a way to accept shafts? The one I'm eyeing atm has it's own shaft sticking out from both sides...

right, see you tomorrow, yep - it's hollow shaft, we extend the screw for a long shaft which goes into the motor but also has a ring on it, which push against the taper which is hold by the motor plate : https://raw.githubusercontent.com/plastic-hub/products/master/products/obelix/renderings/persp.JPG

@🤙v4-team : Hi, can you confirm that there is no source files of the version 3.1 shredder ? I asked @Landry already but no response... That would also mean there is no update for v3 users ... In this case no worry, we develop this from scratch again - luckily we updated already for the 32mm hexbar at the very beginning and it's one of the most requested link in the wiki - no problem to add PP like docs around. @CitSciWorkshop : how is it going with the imperial conversion ? I am just asking because we're updating all site, files, ... this days thanks in advance & kind regards (edited)

I still haven't seen any imperial shredder files. If anyone has some please send them. Thanks.

@Palomino Plastic : I have only the imperial version of the 2.1 shredder - made by our hero Oliver : https://github.com/plastic-hub/pp-v4/tree/master/v3/shredder | still need to convert this to Fusion360 but the laser files are there. (edited)

I'm working when I can on it. I've cut my own files and am working on assembly. Anyone can put in the time as they like as well.

I just want to be able to validate them before releasing. V4 hasn't even been out a month, I'm taking time to do it right and stuff.

@Palomino Plastic side question; is it really that difficult to get metric hardware in the US?

Difficult and expensive.

Metric fasteners are more common than SAE, but it's still a specialty item for steel bars and angles. Sheet is much easier to find since it isn't milled in the USA for the most part, but industrial buyers are still ordering sheet in imperial units, so China is still making them. If you're working with scraps you're more likely to find imperial in the scrap bin.

Even when you're buying it, the dimensions are wild. Width and thickness will be in mm, length will be in feet, and weight will be in pounds.

I'm lucky, I have two spots that have loads of metric hardware

I've got McMaster Carr and Parker Steel. McMaster is great if you only need a few pounds, but Parker can ship out a whole truckload with enough lead time. I'll keep an eye out on dimensions while I'm working to get some more midwestern leads.

Tacoma Screw has a good website, then I've got a small local shop that just seems to have everything.

Steel Warehouse carries EN grades with a ton of locations. They've got a 5,000lb minimum, though.

5:45 AM

I thought for sure Ta Chen would carry metric, but it's special order.

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto sure ive seen those, sure these machines are loud, but if someone wants to set up an industrial level machines (output wise) don't they consider that noise will be the default thing?

@CitSciWorkshop : thanks a lot for the update :-) @Arseniy (PL) : here is the fusion preview/file : https://a360.co/2GQfwdx - we've added another thrust bearing, hopefully also assisting sealing it up. thanks a million looking into it

mine is similar to those in the videos. High speed units.

Does anybody has a laser cutting list for the shredder?, I having difficulties in understanding the 23 x 13 blades SHRPRO-V1 1130.00-A Shaft 2 assembly.pdf. I am trying to send a qty list to the laser cutting company. Thank you

Hello, I am french and my school asked me to build the project. I'm in charge to build the compression machine and I have a question : How many degrees does the oven have to reach ?

@Coach Steeve https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics There's a poster with melting temps

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

@lechatblanc thanks man

Yes @Deleted User i can share the v3.1 shredder and make a "how to" i check it.

6:41 PM

It will be not perfect for the 7 January but now is it good

1

cool, very cool - thanks a million

@Landry that would be great

Hi, the specs of the v4 Sheetpress say 400V but the bill of materials points to 49 220V - cartridge heaters, @jasonknight , any ideas, is this a bug ? We'd like to order a number of systems and just want to be sure.

8:47 PM

madre mia , 49 * 300 Watt, in PP version 10, we ship it with a nuclear plant included

ah, found it, never mind :

8:56 PM

Hello everyone, my school just bought some v3 and v4 machines and was wondering if there would be any issues in using a CNC to cut plastic sheets as opposed to a jigsaw or some other method.

Maybe just the issue of excessive microplastic production?

6:44 AM

@Butte (PP Philippines) - impressive !

not my drawing though. We have a guest engineer from the Netherlands for a couple weeks.

yeah, we have one from Australia here, doing all a hell of re-designs and also lots of new machines - there is now a realistic chance that there will be a 3.5ish kit, filling the void to 4.0.

@Butte (PP Philippines) what does the inside look like?

@Deleted User can I see an example of some of what they're working on? I think you showed something recently, but which machines are getting redesigns?

not really, except you have solidworks (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products), but more or less :

sheetpress : interlockable, doors (fumes), better heat distribution ('sheet press cell')
a new shredder & extrusion combo : new options: dual axle shredder and v4 extruder (that's a remake of 'zoe' , being called 'obelix')
PET grinder : stand-alone or addon ('idefix')
full automatic Shred vending machine for public spaces, with lots of sensors, also bar code and plastic scanner ('asterix')
automatic injection addon for v3/v4
arbor injector : second gear to add more power - but only reduce wheel diameter, it's already powerful enough ('elena')

(edited)

8:14 AM

should be all there and ready for copying this months. we're quite on schedule this time

8:15 AM

ah, fully forgot : more simple version of the v4 extruder ('lydia') (edited)

The shredding vending machine would be so interesting to so many people.

8:46 AM

The PET Grinder I think I saw at one point. That's quite a simple device right?

8:46 AM

Are any of these designed to be possible to produce with lower resolution cutting?

PET grinder : simple - yes, still have to generate the docs. what you mean by lower resolution cutting ?

8:49 AM

but yeah, we try to design all machines being possible to make with plasma, to stay DIY like

(edited)

Plasma CNC.

right, yes, that's the goal

One of my key projects for Recyclopaedia is demonstrating a path from having a 3D printer, to having a CNC plasma cutter.

8:50 AM

For people without large amounts of space or the money for a co2 laser setup.

yeah, we do develop one for us now too, it's hitting the 10k (cutmaster 60A) with a good THC

I should mention that I was talking to Dan Taylor about this too.

8:51 AM

Are you doing a large table Plasma?

yep, we share the outcome in March in https://github.com/plastic-hub/factory

Mine is a smaller footprint machine. So good. We're not duplicating each other's work.

on youtube pro folks keep telling you that doing a good plasma table is quite tricky, often you'd end up buying a commercial table just. we go for a 2.50 x 1.50 m table - it's btw. often also a good & solid revenue generator

8:58 AM

for us the key is to create new products faster

Yeah, I've heard that too. But I've seen what the pro tables do better. And it's really simple to achieve that with a smaller footprint.

yeah, let's see

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- we are trying to source the v4 extruder motor & reducers | the docs are very confusing and at the end we don't know what reducer we should buy, it's say no worm drive but in the video it is, also, it mentions 263 RPMs output speed whilst the motor plate shows 1460 and there is again no mention about the reducer. .... also the link to the reducer page points to a dutch site with no search or glue or specs of the reducer which is btw. insane expensive 1000E. So what reducer we have to buy now? In other places it mentions 140 RPMs extrusion speeds but nobody knows for what or why,.... anyone can shed light ?

9:17 AM

damn, that might get very shaky & expensive to figure this all out. (edited)

9:20 AM

actually we would need a proper and complete table for the RPMs:

per flake size
per product | application
per plastic type

https://www.engineersmate.com/ good site to found a motor if you are in uk and after good luck can’t help I built v3 extrusion

@Elora : thanks a lot. The biggest problem right now is to match those rather inconsistent numbers on the academy pages to an application. we don't know it's for making bricks, beams or small molds ... (edited)

at the end we would need to know only the min. & max. out RPM whereby the max. should give a glue for what ...

9:37 AM

i don't think that anyone is doing bricks with this machine

we've made some estimates : output speed should be 80 RPMs at standardish 50Hz (which is the double of v3), so with the VFD, you can increase/decrease 45%)

@Deleted User The specs are to match the output rates, independent from what you put in the end - feel free to modify it to match your use case

Lets keep it short- i spent several months in shredder research. And its an insane complex topic! Why? For example you have an injection machine, the parameters for that are fairly simple:

Heating elements with Power X
A barrel with a thermal capacity
Flake size
Plastic type
time the plastic needs to melt

The huuge difference to a shredder: you can calculate all those numbers because you know the input! For a shredder you have:

Blade cutting geometry (I talked to professionals in the $$$ industry, guess how they figure it out? Try and Error!)
Blade grabbing geometry: If its too big it will jam the motor more likely, if its too small it wont grab the parts
Material: Each material has his own elasticity -> for the optimal result you would need specific blades for each material, further for each compound!
Part Geometry: What parts you can feed into a shredder will determine its basic principle (high rpm Granulator, slow rpm Double axis shredder, high rpm single axis shredder)
Thickness: How thick is the material? If it is too thin it will build up friction between the blades and heat up. If its too thick the motor gets jammed.
Motor power: You can overload normal motors by a certain factor - according to its mechanical ability to overload the reducer!
Motor speed: Mainly we looking into thermal issues if it runs too fast you have to pause the process -> wait until cooldown to continue + if you want to reduce the costs you might be limited from the torque as well. So we use a 1200Nm output and can shred everything up to beams and half of the bricks.

The tricky question is now: How long? So of course you can overload motor and mechanics, but better to stay 30% under its limits. The problem of everything: We would need 10 years+ to figure out the relations between all those parameters.

ok, thanks a lot Fritz, trial & error is exactly what we can't afford in the middle of the production of those machines, clients expect us to have this done for them ..

9:53 AM

so we go now for 1:20 for a 1500RM at 50Hz, that matches the experience with a similar screw design

So then just stay to the specs or spend research in what you want to change - i know the shredder is a really expensive machine. But to get the same machines from an industrial supplier would cost you at least 30k€ upwards to achieve an average(!!!!) output of 50kg/h. Most manufacturers dont even supply this number, they only offer the max. output. Which is a bit below 100kg/h compared to a 10kg/h for the v3 shredder.

9:56 AM

Which torque you get for this ratio?

yeah but the current specs make no sense : 230 RPMS ?

9:57 AM

i wasn't talking about shredder btw. but I look into your comments later

9:58 AM

torque : let me check

10:00 AM

280 Nm

10:00 AM

1500 RPM | 3Kw, 1:20, 380V

Ahh for the extruder :DD

yeah,

So you have: 3kW, 75rpm, 280nM You Need 3kW, ~1:5, 290rpm, ~100Nm Ideally you pic a bit higher reducer, not sure what is the next standard number on that. Something like this: https://www.maedler.de/Article/43007100 Searching for a reducer combo is your job then^^

yeah, that's the tricky part: very weird to see 290 RPM - we'd like to know for what exactly

11:21 AM

because, we've seen much better quality beams done with a similar screw design (22mm flight width) and those came out around 60 RPM (800w, v3, 1:30). Actually I haven't seen til now not a single beam remotely good as that on the public channels ... (edited)

11:22 AM

apparently also good beams need some time in the extruder

what is "good" in this case?

good surface finish

11:29 AM

on the public channels - they mostly look badly f** up - would involve a planer,...

11:29 AM

and worst : no good filling, often hollow

best surface finish = heated mould - the extrusion speed is more about productivity

yeah but productivity wasn't exactly asked, quality yes

11:34 AM

I think up to 90% of the users / clients we have won't consider doing this as 'business' - for that we have little to no evidence ....

If you buy a 5k€ machine you better should i guess

yeah, but no - things might change if we have viable and high quality products, easy to replicate but I don't see us anywhere near that and the crowds we know seems to have pretty other plans with that machines

11:51 AM

that's why we're focusing more on a version 3.5 ish PP kit (edited)

in my opinion the extruder is difficult in general from a "business-standpoint"

to me it's kinda predictable, and relative easy to automate , no ? (edited)

The question to me is what products you make on it, which price range you target and which audience you want to adress with those products. 2. Automation is never easy^^ I have seen multi mio euro robot plants failing on a daily basis - thats were we are not anywhere near yet

well , at least it's possible, an injection addon for v3/4 is in progress (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/automatic-injector), not exactly rocket science - let's see first someone creates a good product - that's a hard thing to do with recycled plastic though ; I actually doubt someone wants to spit 24/7 parts with that. most folks we know do this a lot for fun (aka the real and original PP - yeah ), and the lion part is in a educational context. only the injector made it til now into existing small enterprise. on of our kits made it even into a permanent museum, still waiting for pics (edited)

Does anyone have experience using metal fillers? I was wondering about doing a low tech mod on an Auger drill bit using a high temp resistant filler. Gradually filling the screw thread to increase the pressure closer to the outlet end. This sort of material: https://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Weld-37901-Adhesive-Extremeheat/dp/B01N2Z1K11/ref=pd_sim_263_1/258-0283853-7664272?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N2Z1K11&pd_rd_r=b1fc8785-fd5f-4381-b6ab-91cee572c833&pd_rd_w=1dyvW&pd_rd_wg=aR489&pf_rd_p=2fd67464-3829-4391-8747-f4fac7516a6d&pf_rd_r=TMSFCZP9K7V7D3VYSB6M&refRID=TMSFCZP9K7V7D3VYSB6M&th=1

12:34 PM

Using filler to achieve something closer to the upgraded auger.

@lechatblanc : I tried hard, https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/adding-compression-to-wood-auger/. it's possible - sure, with lots hours, count easily a day, and you want this with a good MIG Co2-Argon welder; Fluxcore will leave near unfix-able mess

12:49 PM

and the next problem is that the root isn't really made for high torque, might break

1

using fillers might be a little like TIG - which I also tried but then you might also spent a long time with dremel to get it all smooth ... (edited)

Can anyone please tell me what the thread dims are on the std PP injection moulders? We need to source a new one and I can't seem to find it. It's a female to male reducer and apparently it's a plmubing fitting

@Deleted User that's a really interesting thread.

I just cant get the resolution on a plasma table for v3 shredders. I have owned a pro torchmate machine and built several over the years. Really got to spring for the Fiber laser work.

@Butte (PP Philippines) - have you seen , hypertherm powermax or cutmaster setups ? this is looking good to me, our partnershop has one, fully enough for me

what's a fiber laser cost anyways ?

PM sent

@Nathan-PPLancaster Its a G1/2 or R1/2 on the output side

1

@Fritz @easymoulds Thanks man! Appreciated.

@Deleted User - still thinking about modding a wood auger bit to make it more like the compression auger. I can see the benefit to grinding out a large SDS masonry bit. That's something I think I'll do. Its easier to take things away than it is to add things on, after all! I'm also considering High Heat resistant tile grout. The type that is used near wood burners. The advantage with that is that it can be sculpted and easily handled. Heat resistant to 1000oC. (edited)

6:08 PM

I appreciate the steel auger bit will expand, but at temps below 300oC it's fractional. Some grout/adhesives are designed for heat on steel substrates, too.

yeah, keep in mind that the rest of the SDS apart from the tip is rather mild steel. it might wear out in no time. plastic whilst extruding is really abrasive; and mate, don't wanna kill the fun you gonna have but a v3/v4 extrusion screw is just 200$ after all.

1

On the motor power / rpm discussion. Fritz was right, the 290 RPM is the outgoing rpm of the reductor. You basically need around 100 Nm to turn the screw independant on which rpm you use. Power = Torque / speed so if you asume a fixed torque, the power and speed rises linearly

1

9:20 PM

directly comparing screws to eachother is tricky too. Compared to the V3 screw, the V4 screw is designed with a larger pitch for better troughput. the V3 one had a shallower pitch angle which required less torque but intoduced a lot more shear (and heat). The geometry determines a lot there. Its like driving a wood screw into a plate compared to a finer pitch bolt. you need less torque to rotate finer pitch bolt but you need to turn it more to get it to travel the same distance

yeah - i just took home turned screws as preference, and we've been pretty close to yours, at least pitch wise

just the speed is very confusing indeed, we always came back to 40 - 60 to have a nice & decent quality, for 4x4 or 4x6 cm beams, solid - no hollowness or anything as seen on the public channels (edited)

9:42 PM

yet, 290 RPM is for what ? beams, molds, baskets, all together ?

that btw. also enabled to lower the footprint for v3, from the now & suddenly recommended 1.5 - 2kw, it just takes 800W, at 220V instead of 400 , at 1:30 - a simple 270E motor & reducer combo - and those streams of beams come out just perfectly - plus you can run a shredder on the other side at 2.2kw, often - the same time. That's also a nice balance with your green policy

(edited)

9:55 PM

in top, this setup will make it available to about 10 times more users, something I love to see always (edited)

Hello Everyone! I am a Canadian engineering student leading a club project to construct a plastic extrusion machine to recycle the 3D printed waste being produced at our university and Precious Plastic was a big part in deciding on that project . We just had our first meeting yesterday discussing the design and wanted to get some more experienced opinions surrounding the ideal dimensions for the barrel width and length before purchasing the first parts. Given the lower thermal conductivity of plastic, would having 2 heating bands with an inner diameter of 3/4" to extrude PLA at a 1.75mm thickness work? Or would we need to get more bands and/or decrease the barrel diameter. Also, we are debating of using an Arduino based PID control system for a greater learning opportunity, has anyone done that? Cheers (edited)

Buenos días, estoy armando la trituradora la básica, y no encuentro las especificaciones del eje!

@Bigfoot extending PLA becomes quite brittle really not suitable for stuff like beams etc. Better for aesthetic items. But if you want an extrusion machine try replicating the V3 one first and them improve on it. That's hard enough. I'm from a strudent team in Australia as well

@Qure Plastics , we aren’t intending to create the beams but rather turn the PLA back into a 1.75 mm filament. That way the recycled product can take many different forms. (edited)

There's a few machines for this you can buy online might want to get inspo from there

For sure, the issue We are running into is very little mention of specific measures (edited)

Personally, rather than attempting to us PP machines to produce a filament line, I would consider buying one from a site like Robotdigg.

2:32 AM

Use the PP shredder. And aim for fine grains.

2:33 AM

But a dedicated filament making line will not be too expensive, and there's at least one part of the filament line that has not been reproduced by PP. You could also look at other open source filament lines.

All good points that the team is taking into consideration but I am hoping to get some advise on the diameter of the pipe.

I would concentrate on finding a screw and a complimentary seamless pipe and follow the v3 build plan. You'll have a system from which to experiment and iterate. https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/arduino-extruder-controller/

Ivan Jakesevic

Arduino extruder controller - Dave Hakkens

The arduino controller for the extruder machine. It can control 2 output heaters, for example 1 heater on one output, 3 heaters on the other output (heaters are represented by the led diodes, - Dave Hakkens

1

@Deleted User we are very happy with the outcomes coming from the pneumatic injection, it needs addons like heated plate for flat moulds, when we need to inject more than once or changing the barrel for a bigger size (also plunger), but generally speaking we are producing 10 times faster than with the original.

5

Love the wooden handle!

1

@Plastikourgeio Nice machine! Do you have photos from the product or videos from running?

(Or a website;)) The handle is only for open the hopper, right?

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

8:59 AM

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto the handle is to open the dispenser, that drops the shredder plastic into the hopper

1

9:01 AM

1

9:01 AM

9:02 AM

Looks good. What are they? https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/598887270636060694/674887303365263373/DSC09222.JPG

@Frederik C (ZA) soap holders for a brand called Terrorist of Beauty, based in Hamburg

1

9:06 AM

You send your shampoo, gels, whatever you use in the bathroom contained in plastic and they give you a free holder when you buy their soap, which it should substitute your plastic

So, this is "sold" (value added) in an independent retail / online store?

kind of, you need to send the plastic (free of charge) and when you buy the soap, they give you the holder

Interesting. There have been questions in #deleted-channel about examples of selling products to outside retailers. I know of only 2 examples. So, maybe this is a 3rd. I'm not sure how to best document examples of partnership with established retailers, but collecting examples might help to give people ideas.

@Frederik C (ZA) count on me, we produce also this lams, that combines reclaimed wood and paper waste. We do this for other people that sells them, also small souvenirs (eg Cyclades heads or spin tops) (edited)

9:20 AM

So, you sell mostly to other businesses and not on the bazar?

1

@Frederik C (ZA) to be honest I don't think our products are to the level of what it is sold in the bazar. However, our clients love them, because it means something for them

1

@Plastikourgeio Repost in #archived-showcase

ok i will

@Arseniy (PL) , @Fritz @easymoulds

10:49 AM

And everyone

10:49 AM

Do you work on upgrading machines to Standard to ? On which machines did you work ? It would be great if you work on it to and if we could share our research.

10:49 AM

Yes, I will share what i’ve done. First of all, I will organize my work on a document to make it understandable. I mostly worked on the shredder till now. In fact, it would be great to create a « How to » or a space where the commaunity could share there work about standard CE upgrading machine. Where could we create this sharing space ? Did you already create the google doc @Fritz @easymoulds ? A notified body, is coming to do an assesment on the machines that i have. They come to guide me on How to upgrade these machines to CE standard. If you have some specific questions to ask I will ask them and you will have a professional answer so let me know. @Arseniy (PL) " CE marking required to market product in the EU." I think it’s also very important and essential for getting on assurance in case of any problem.

Interesting. There have been questions in #deleted-channel about examples of selling products to outside retailers. I know of only 2 examples. So, maybe this is a 3rd. I'm not sure how to best document examples of partnership with established retailers, but collecting examples might help to give people ideas.

@Frederik C (ZA) I think that if I had access right now to injection molding, and a shredder, I'd be approaching certain businesses for my existing proprietary products.

1:28 PM

At the moment, I only sell them at a very low rate because I 3D print them.

1:29 PM

But I'd be able to lower my costs and interest brick and mortar stores of certain kinds pretty quickly.

Here is my version of the Injection machine that is designed to be easily packed & shipped. It maintains the same geometry as the V2 machine, but has bolted laser cut construction. When it is complete it will be available for sale in Australia.

Ready now :) So how i think about is - that people who are professional (!) machine developer, engineers or people with a prooven track of record will be invited to contribute on specific development tasks. This is not to restrict access, but to avoid "troubleshooting" questions and keep the conversations very focused on a high level. After a defined timeframe there will be a conclusion document/how to/ academy article published which offers the resulting information. This is a test to establish a kind of community based development towards common goals which are detected as relevant. For now there is only the topic of "Certification" active, if it succeeds we can continue with other things. For an invitation please PM me your E-Mail and a short statement why you feel interested/qualified to join @Deleted User @Arseniy (PL) @Deleted User Do you get a full review for your machine? I know it can be super informative to go through documents like that!

6:27 PM

It became a Google Groups in the end, becase it offers a really good and proofen chat structure for development projects. The gDoc can be used as a conclusion document down the road.

@Sunshine Coast Maker Space , nice, did you check https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/arbor-injection-press/ ? Our best seller so far, rev-2. , 60 units out there so far - often in a shredder & extrusion combo; folks seem to love it since it's small, easy to ship, transport, extend ; also a good MVP btw, relative easy to make if you're since a while in metal work. In rev3 we switch also to plasma-able parts and a second transmission gear to reduce wheel size, 300e material, 30Kg, 900e Bazar - right on the people's wallet size

according to wiki stats, it's the most copied community machine design. Our community hero 'Stan' archived a quite stunning work with a small scale version : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/portable-desktop-injection-machine/. Was wondering to make this as commercial unit as well, demand is quite high for that. (edited)

1

@Sunshine Coast Maker Space : if you could share your design in a similar format as here : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/elena, I am sure others can check it relative quickly during their production

(edited)

1

little change about sourcing heatbands : we're using those here from now on : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33048321207.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.11134c4dc0IWKW. we just tested those a few times and they seem superior to those you can get from tc-direct or the ones for 5-8e. We switched to those because our our suppliers couldn't deliver anymore since we open sourced everything

We can't tell for sure about long term artifacts but we can say they heat up fast and draw less energy and there is also less oszilation in conjunction with a decent auto-tuned inkbird PID.

US $19.25 10% OFF|LJXH 35mm Inner Diameter Ceramic Band Heaters He...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

Was also my first choice on heatbands. Pretty good until some plastic drops on them and you try to clean them

But looks very similar to the stuff the "professional" guys use: https://www.pmseurope.com/collections/oem-barrel-bands/products/barrel-band-arburg?variant=7504074113075

Barrel bands for Arburg

Replacement barrel bands for arburg machines These Arburg bands include Plug and Thermocouple hole Quick-release stainless steel sheath hinged for easy installation Available with Heavy duty two prong plug Flexible armoured leads Insulating cover with adjustable screw clamp 1...

1

@Sunshine Coast Maker Space nice!!

Has anyone tried to heat the plastic before it gets shredded?

hello everyone

1:40 AM

i need to know what is the calculation to select the motor power for the extrusion machine

https://youtu.be/rPQvn2LuNmQ

Rutgers Today

Rutgers Builds Bridges with Recycled Plastic

Hi folks! I've got a 3.5 kW 3phase motor for a shredder, now I'm wondering if a 4 kW VFD would work for that or if I can also go for a smaller one. Since I will only run it around 70 RPM. With my dangerous half knowledge I thought that the output power will be also drastically lower when I slow the speed down. P=M*n/9550 If the momentum is the same the power should go down with speed. ?

@Fritz @easymoulds - as far I remember 'Plasticpreneur' stated several times to have CE certification for all their machines. Possibly they can help your new working group, I actually thought they do help the community already in this regard. We dropped the whole process in favor of 9001 & 14001... (edited)

Machinery Directive 2006/42/EC - ANNEX IV item 10, includes injection or compression plastics-moulding machinery with manual loading or unloading, which I think is our case (edited)

hey, does somebody knows an alternative brand to a Haas or Optimum ? We'd like to get a new CNC milling machine (VF2ish - as workhorse), below 50K. Not quite sure actually what to buy; a new one or a bigger one but second hand (www.machineseeker.com seems to have good offers). I guess we want some warranty & service.

@Deleted User For machine parts? I guess Haas is pretty good in universal use, especially to start with. I looked recently into some Mikron machines - just they are big and heavy -.- I will look into some smaller UHPC bases soon, to get away a bit cheaper than Datron.

yeah, pretty much universal stuff, we'd like to machine 10 parts at a time, just a few different tools. thanks mate, i will have to look at the names you just posted. i kinda hope we use it also to finish also plasma cut parts - if really needed. i guess at some point we just outsources all but more in 2-3 years when we got a better handle on all.

Does anyone know how "The quest for the ultimate extrusion screw" ended? https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/the-quest-for-the-ultimate-extrusion-screw/ I went through 91 replies and my conclusion was to buy it from Alibaba. Still, ¿has anyone fabricated one?

Siemen Cuypers

The quest for the ultimate extrusion screw - Dave Hakkens

In the plans of the current extrusion machine a basic drill is being used in the barrel to push and melt the plastic to the nozzle. This seems to work, however, in the industry a different type - Dave Hakkens

We have some for the v4 Exturder in Eindhoven- not sure if they are already listed? @Joseph Apart from that check which one of them is the model that suits you, we collaberated with him on a design: https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine

Just got to Mauritius, will be building an injection workspace in the comming month

7

@Fritz @easymoulds : haas vf5, fully loaded, 65k, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2327334780838248/. i checked the other brands but we feel better with Haas being just around the corner, also for training.

VENDO CENTRO DE MECANIZADO HAAS VF5

Vendo centro de mecanizado HAAS VF5 con recorridos x:1270 y:660 z:600, cambiador 20 herramientas, cono iso 40, sonda de medición de herramienta, sonda de medición de pieza, refrigeración a través del husillo, control haas, extractor de virutas, 8. 000 r. p. m, AÑO 2013. UBICACIÓ...

@Deleted User Check the spindle hours when you buy it! A new one can be easliy 10-20k extra.

yeah, the configurator just made me cry : https://www.haascnc.com/content/haascnc/en/build-and-price/choose-options.VF-5%252F40.html , with all extras the bloody things could cost twice, they even charge for 7 spare M commands, f·$%f$%·$5

No1 reason why I personally would not buy in into the Haas eco-system. I don't like companies which treat their customers like idiots. Haas itself makes so many things right, but I dont want to call in a service technican every time I want to connect something to my controller... Just makes them super unsympathic in my point of view. But there are not many alternatives in the same price range - the only option would be to look into machines from Asia.

1

yeah, heard about : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIjNyUSE-5c&ab_channel=Nerdly. our other concern is to keep as much value as possible, in case we want to ditch it ...

11:08 PM

for 65k I could possibly build 3 workhorses

little update about the dual sheet press (interlockable, target sheet size 1.22m x 2.44m)

the CAD is done (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/sheetpress-cell/cad)
the hydraulic pump (10000PSI) will lift both via hydraulic cylinders (joystick) - BOM updates soon, we maintain all the updates on a new forum (WIP) : https://forum.precious-plastic.org/t/welcome-to-the-dualsheetpress/
gallery : https://rawcdn.githack.com/plastic-hub/products/e6d65c6b62d77269ae140b66402dfd1f5fc16f00/products/sheetpress-cell/gallery/index.html#/0

(edited)

5:23 PM

Nice machine! looks great

Hello, do somebody know the calculations of the shredder pro v4 like shaft diameter?

Or how you calculate the shaftdiameter of a shredder

@luuk I think it was made from experience, trial and error and maby a good feeling with oversizing ;) See also here: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/v4-shredder-double-axis-indexblog-4/

Yann

V4 Shredder Double Axis – [INDEX+BLOG] - Dave Hakkens

Hey community, We are 3 guys to work on the V4 shredder double axes, Landry (@landry) from France – a industrial designer and engineer, Paco (@pacoacu13) from Spain – mechanical engineer, - Dave Hakkens

Hi, someone know the excact area of the steel sheets needed to build the shredder? (not pro)

Here is my version of the Injection machine that is designed to be easily packed & shipped. It maintains the same geometry as the V2 machine, but has bolted laser cut construction. When it is complete it will be available for sale in Australia.

@Sunshine Coast Maker Space @Rory - Sustainable Design Studio looks pretty cool

1

hey everybody, we settled on a simplified and cheaper version of the extrusion v4, currently in production, test/reports, BOM etc.. on its way, open source files : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/lydia-v4

plastic-hub/products

Contribute to plastic-hub/products development by creating an account on GitHub.

1

7:33 PM

basically a little bigger version of 'Lydia', boils down to 2 taper bearings, a thrust bearing, a motor plate, a bearing housing, one more PID, jam-detection and that's pretty much it

Any recommended online .STP file viewers (preferably mobile-friendly) for folks who can't (or don't want to) install current CAD programs?

Have you tried OnShape? it's a web based cad package and requires an account but it's pretty mobile friendly if you just want to use it as a viewer.

2

little 'trick' to dial in hexbars faster on an adjustable 4-jaw-chuck, keeps it below +/-0.05 run-out.

2

Is that tight fit tube stock, or did you bore out a bar to the large diameter?

yep, it's bored out right on size; i had all sort of other ways to dial it in but this one seems best; with a very good 3 or 6 jaw chuck that problem doesnt really exists but I love the 4 jaw chuck too much and I am too lazy to switch back to 3 jaws for the other jobs. After a while you get used to dialing in pieces anyways- below a min, at 0.01

(edited)

2

1:13 AM

What a rewarding day. Got the validation box together. US steel sizes adapted to standard PP v4 design. Just facing and surfacing the blades and hex axles now.

1:14 AM

And Yasmine the laser cut brick mold pieces.

are there drawings for the basic shredder somewhere? I can only find the pro

They are in the main download kit in the Shredder folder

Here in the Philippines now seeing signifigant supply problems for machine parts.

2:02 AM

I am unable to buy both Japanese and Chinese bearingss

2:02 AM

Euro bearings available at 2x the cost.

2:03 AM

We may be unable to build more machines soon if the virus situation continues. Also many cases here, but not 'confirmed' because no test facilities.

Stay safe @Butte (PP Philippines)

Good day friends . Please tell me where I can download drawings for manufacturing equipment for plastic processing

All download kits are listed here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download [FAQ] [starter kits] [download] (edited)

thank you very much

1

Hi guys ! I want to building an injection machine but i.hâte trouble to understand some informations about thé material. Like for the roundbar the details are: 26 x 680 mm . I understand that 680 mm correspond to the diameter but what correspond.to 26 ? Thanks for your help

2:28 PM

@el_reb other way around, 26mm diameter with a length of 680 mm

@CitSciWorkshop are you using hardox material?

Hardox seems to be an EU brand name. We are using prehardened AR US equivalents.

8:35 PM

AR for abrasion resistant.

@CitSciWorkshop are you having any difficulties in finding 2.5 mm thickness sheet, coz its super hard in India to get those

We have 3/32" (2.4mm) thickness here. For this I just ground down pieces of 0.120".

@CitSciWorkshop oh ok

little update about the PP Firmware being now rewritten for a lots of more sensors, assisting in a sort of autonomous mode : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb1joRiQPkE&feature=youtu.be (https://github.com/plastic-hub/firmware/tree/asterix/shredder-extrusion/firmware-next)

Plastic Hub

Firmware 2.0

Hey, we put all the laser files except the upgrade folder in one pdf. It seems laser guys prefer this to the pp shredder pro folders (edited)

JajroodShredder-Model.pdf

30.07 KB

8:35 PM

How do you guys check how many times whether your download kit is most recent or was it updated since you have downloaded the kit? (edited)

@alistar : see https://github.com/ONEARMY or https://github.com/plastic-hub/pp-v4/ (synced and contain as well community updates)

8:39 PM

thanks btw. for the PDF, I will add it (edited)

8:43 PM

@alistar : you have a link to your team/project ? just to keep the credits in tact for each contributor ..

Does anyone know the dimensions of the plastic brick offhand? I have downloaded the plans but they are in DWG and I don’t had a CAD program to open it. A PDF of the dimensions would be handy

@PlasticHub: great, Its http://wiki.ashghalance.ir.

@alistar : thanks a lot ! great work, now we have 2 media wiki projects

@Deleted User Love the new Lydia v4!

1

@Bauple : we re-do the CAD next week (nice exercise), hang on (edited)

Playing with an idea for a mould for a small pulley, has anyone tried making moulds with multiple layers of aluminium sheet?

1:20 AM

these are 4mm and 2mm, bolted through

I don't see any reason it shouldn't work

I am thinking to glue some of them together with hi-temp gasket sealant

As long as you can get those inner pieces out

yes those would be glued together as a plug and glued into the base

1:22 AM

a small pulley to house a 6000 bearing

You would probably be better using solid pieces in the inside, to minimize the seam making it harder to remove

1:23 AM

Just clean up the seams if you can and I think it would work

yea, although i kinda wanted this to be something that can be cut on a laser cutter from sheets

1:24 AM

a really simple mould which can be downloaded

I think it would work, it really just depends how hard it is to get those inner pieces out

1:25 AM

You might need a mold release or something on the inner plug but worth a try

what is the most common attachment people are using for the inlet? is the screw on type still used or are people using pressure with a ball nose nozzle?

I would guess a mixture of both. People are still building the original as those plans are the prominent ones on the PP site.

1:29 AM

It should be easy enough to make a set of plans for both

yea i guess so, for the screw adapter it would need extra layers

1:34 AM

once the centre plug is glued together it could be dressed a little bit to give a draft angle

1:34 AM

would make sure the bearing is nice and tight too

You could just add another plate for the screw, add some gasket sealant so when you assemble the mold it seals the screw plate to the outside mold plate.

1:37 AM

Just for an easy screw option

i was thinking a layer with a hex hole and then a layer with a round hole, to encapsulate a fitting like these guys do: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/listings/885880-carabiner-mould-precious-plastic-v4

Carabiner Mould Precious Plastic v4 - Precious Plastic Bazar

Carabiner Mould Precious Plastic v4 for €90 per Set by easymoulds on Precious Plastic Bazar

That could work

1:48 AM

could be an easy setup too

great, thanks!

interested in ecobricks???

7:07 AM

greetings! from Port-au-Prince I applauds to the multiple works undertaking daily for the environment... I am Andy running a collection center in Haiti open for any suggestion, or request!!! thanks! anyone looking for LDPE??? inbox me at tycrecyclingservices@gmail.com

Hello everyone ! Just a quick question about the electrical requirement for the machines as I am not an electrical expert: is it required to have a 3-phase installation ? Does it depend only on the motor ? Could we use the motor on a 1 phase installation ? Thanks in advance

(edited)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cE34YHsRY88

Jeremy Fielding

Three Ways To Run A Three Phase Motor On Single Phase, And the Pro'...

1:46 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGKZ51zg0X8https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGKZ51zg0X8

Handmade Extreme

1 Phase to 3 Phase Rotary Converter - 230V to 415V

1

hi, we do the CAD for the brick mold (smaller variants, etc...). Who's the original author of the dwg files ? (https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-extruded-plastic-bricks)

Another question, @🤙v4-team : is there no 'official' v3.1 shredder release at the end ? We tried to get our hands on the files but no luck so far. Anyways, no problem to develop this from scratch - that was the most wanted update and we'd like to build on the new v3.1 layout/design (addons, etc.. ). Thanks in advance. Btw. we've got finally the brick mold into the CAD. If anyone has a specific down size on mind, let us know. No problem to add this now.

PDF versions are also nice for us "noobs" who don't do CAD, but just want a looky-loo at the plans.

is there no 'official' v3.1 shredder release at the end ?

@Deleted User nope. Still testing. might release it as a how-to. And if we really like it could be added to download-kit. But first. Proper testing

1

v3.1 ? was there a v3.0 ?

I thought it went from v2.1 to v4 pro

right, thanks a million. @John , yup - there is a bad ass v3.1 update which fixes the shaft size problem. we used from the beginning 32mm hexbar, and in v3.1 its 36mm or so

1

4:38 PM

we might add a system to put different axles in there, pops up frequently ..

Sort of correct @John. The confusing things is always: Precious Plastic (the project) releases version. Currently we are in V4 But within that machines or applications can be in its own version of development. For instance currently: Shredder: V2.1 Shredder Pro: V1.0 Extrusion: V2.0 Extrusion Pro: V1.0 Sheetpress: V1 Community Platform: V1.0 Etc

2

@Bauple , here you go : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/moulds/bricks ; the other 2 molds are still in progress but you could easily multiple from the drawings.

1

Hi Dave, when I have my concept drawn out in CAD, would you be willing to have a look at it?

hello im gwendal, planning to start a project in a tiny island near dominican republic. to help reducing the big amount of plastic coming everyday to the shore, and help the small community living here stop burning it. looking to build a shredder but wondering if they were a alternative option from making blade with lazer cut ? could i find similar recycling from other machine? do it handmade?

1

Can anyone identify the threaded connector used on these moulds? It's a really neat system, should be adopted as standard https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/listings/885880-carabiner-mould-precious-plastic-v4

Carabiner Mould Precious Plastic v4 - Precious Plastic Bazar

Carabiner Mould Precious Plastic v4 for €90 per Set by easymoulds on Precious Plastic Bazar

just get a plug and drill out the center

aha!

11:20 PM

thanks

or something along this line... https://www.mcmaster.com/4624k42

11:23 PM

but i think a brass plug would be cheaper

hmm nah the plugs have a deeper head

1/4inch pipe thread ones https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Control-23152X4-P15-Brass-Head/dp/B01MT3T4DE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=brass+plug&qid=1581978271&sr=8-8

i need that low profile head

11:27 PM

and the same G1/2" thread

what about this one... https://www.amazon.com/Bushing-Reducer-Reducing-Adapter-Fitting/dp/B07SHS78WD/ref=sr_1_18_sspa?keywords=NPT%2B1%2F2%22%2BThread%2Bhex%2Bbushing&qid=1581978580&sr=8-18-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNzE0NVdKOEo4SDRFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQwMzU1MlhWU1pKTjhaUkFOMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDMwMDgwMjVNTTVWUkczODVPQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

Found this interlocking brick.... seems to me that can be extruded and cuted by sections

@iMack I think that might be hard to extrude, that big hollow cavity on the one side

11:35 PM

but you might be able to build a mold to include it

11:36 PM

injection mold should be easy enough, but would be slower

11:36 PM

you have a link for that?

11:36 PM

i'd be interested in how the layers lock withe the one above and below

They have two different heights.

Looks interesting

http://entrenos.eafit.edu.co/noticias/2020/febrero/Paginas/ladrillos-que-se-entrelazan-entre-si-un-sistema-al-que-se-le-otorgo-una-nueva-patente.aspx?elqTrackId=209d4c4f3820487ea233d99829aab606&elq=aaf939104fa34d4e99c888ba3a10483b&elqaid=10052&elqat=1&elqCampaignId=9561&elqcst=272&elqcsid=1195

I am working on a design for a small sheetpress that can operate on domestic power with Jeff Wubbs and wondered or everyone would like to have a look at our designs when we are done

2

@Timberstar did you see these images of the easymoulds re-comb mould? https://www.instagram.com/p/B8rL3Myo5kK/?igshid=1qloby51daeby

Hi all, my plan to build a shredder has been a long time coming and I have help from friends who can do the laser cutting, so time to get real. When talking about the Shredder Pro version what type of electromotor should I buy? Preferably 220 V as a 400 V source isn't close by nor easily accessible. The engines I found run at too high rpm. I'm based in the south of the Netherlands so something that ships there would be great. Something that comes close to what is required: https://elektromotorshop.com/elektromotor-elektromotoren-kopen%20-220v-380v-400v-shop-online-12v/elektromotoren-230-volt-elektromotor-kopen-2.2kw/ml-100l2-4-3-kw-1500-rpm-elektromotor-230-volt

ML 100L2-4 3 kW 1500 rpm elektromotor 230 volt

ML 100L2-4 3 kW 1500 rpm elektromotor 230 volt draait op net spanning 230V 1500 rpm

It is my understanding that you would need a gear box for the PP shredders to reduce the rpm and provide more torque.

You're right, I completely missed that. I'll expand my search thanks

here's one in Belgium that could work. Expensive tho, and above the specs (5.5kW / 29rpm, spec says 3-4 kW) https://www.2dehands.be/a/doe-het-zelf-en-bouw/motoren/m1506808108-motoreducteur.html (edited)

② MOTOREDUCTEUR - Motoren | 2dehands

Motoréducteur 230v/400v 5,5kw 29 trs/min avec frein idéal monte charge grue manège pont roulant .....

The shredder I won on ebay comes with a 10hp motor

12:32 PM

The motor alone was worth more than I paid.

do you know the rpm ?

It is higher, but different type of plastic shredder. It uses the bar knives like a wood planar

oh ok. Can't wait for a demo vid

my bad, only 5hp

12:34 PM

the bigger one is 10hp

12:34 PM

https://rotogran.com/product/ph-series/

12:34 PM

older version of the ph-88

12:35 PM

supposed to come with a bunch of different knives and mesh sizes

12:35 PM

its even been adapted for household power instead of 220V 3phase

what a beast

i am paying more for shipping than i did for the item at auction

12:36 PM

but all total with shipping is less than US$600

12:37 PM

shipping was over half of that

12:37 PM

it came from a guy that used it for failed 3d prints from his print farm

12:39 PM

i've had request for pictures and video so people can see the workings. so i will be posting those for those interested

@lechatblanc no i hadn't, thats a nice one too. I wanna use the same pipe fitting but trapped between thin sheets:

Right, hence needing low profile. Are these pulleys for giant 3d printer?

yep

1:14 PM

turns out pulleys are not all that cheap so I thought hey why not just make them

1:17 PM

but Id like to be able to release a mould desiggn which anyone can download and cut with a laser or cnc

Sounds cool. Also being able to offer a standardised part made from recycled plastic is a boon to other makers.

Your screw will gut full of plastic, or do you close the head? Why no thread in the middle cylinder and the screw from outside?

The middle bolt head forms part of the moulded shape, it's 10mm diameter which will make the 10mm centre hole for the axle of the wheel. I don't think it will matter that it gets plastic in the head because when the middle section is bolted together it won't need to come apart again. (edited)

1:29 PM

I didn't want to tap a thread because most people don't have tapping dies

1:33 PM

1:36 PM

Like this it could even be made by hand cutting and drilling the sheets, and hand filing for the U groove profile

1:38 PM

i just need to confirm the depth of the head of that brass fitting to be sure it will fit between the layers

1:40 PM

The pulley will form part of an assembly which has other recycled plastic parts too

well this went from 0-100 real fast for me XD

2:17 PM

Still I'm impressed with the ingenuity

thanks!

2:24 PM

I would love if someone wants to go ahead and make one of these and try it out, i can provide the DXF files

hi, we emptied the stock for cartridge heaters for the v4 sheetpress (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32867272365.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.79bd4c4dEttOsK)

| I can't find another supplier on Aliexpress; Anyone knows an alternative in the EU ? @🤙v4-team : btw. the BOM for those heaters is wrong, it says 49 pieces for 240 Euro whilst it's ~9.50 for one alone; so it;s double more expensive ...

US $9.53 10% OFF|LJXH Cartridge Heater Element 220V Single Head Hea...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

4:06 PM

Another question : how do you guys deal with AliExpress and Amazon VAT ? I found only a trick called "Ali Invoice", basically a Chrome Plugin which generates an invoice but not sure yet what the accountant has to say (updates soon).

there's no VAT so no need for an invoice I think. VAT Invoices are only useful so you can avoid paying it in EU or be reimbursed in your country. So as long as you can justify the purchase to your accountant you'll be ok. Usually I just send him a printscreen of the order email ^^

4:12 PM

didn't know about the plugin, looks cool ! too bad it's not available on firefox

4:15 PM

as for Amazon, they have a "Amazon for Business" service. One of the features is that you can choose to only see the sellers that can give you VAT invoices (edited)

@Deleted User I've heard that parts from China and Japan are getting difficult to get hold of because of Corona virus. Bearing production is almost stopped so European bearings are going up in price.

yeah, we only order heatbands from there, and the last packages had only 2 weeks delay, lets see

4:35 PM

thanks @John , let's see what the accountant has to say about - as often there is this 'spain is different' thingy

@Deleted User note that those cartridge heaters are sold in pairs

thanks a lot

6:58 PM

since you're here: what you think about the 10 cm variant ?

If anyone can’t find those exact cartridge heaters, there are loads of options that are slightly different. For the V4 sheetpress, I recommend staying within the following limits; 10-12mm diameter, 270-300W, 80-120mm length. (You will need to adjust your aluminium block dimensions accordingly) (edited)

right

@Deleted User remember we talked about adjustable moulds made with lots of pins? It's arrived: https://www.compositesworld.com/blog/post/dynapixel-automated-reconfigurable-molds

DYNAPIXEL: automated, reconfigurable molds

CAD-driven system cuts time for design iterations, enables cost-effective customized jigs and molded parts.

2

1

holy moly, yeah, i remember very well

(edited)

it seems to be mostly for vacuum forming...

7:58 PM

i posted earlier on Galaxy about an idea for vacuum forming sheets from the sheet press by flipping them onto a mold

evtl. a nice sheet press addon , possibly have to crash the bank for that thing

7:59 PM

lol, at the same time

sheet press needs a removable plate for the plastic so the machine can stay hot, then also the plate can be turned upside down so the hot sheet drapes over a former, then vacuum from below (edited)

My low-tech silicone moulding idea is sort of like that. But you have to make the first sample product, by hand, out of wood. They will probably increase the "resolution" over time, right? Like a few thousand hypodermic needle-sized actuators?

@Timberstar @lechatblanc regarding the mould, I just use a G1/2 nut and a double male adapter - the nuts are a bit hard to source, but the best option I came up with so far

@Fritz @easymoulds Aha ok! I was thinking it was one part. I think either way would work with this design actually as long as that hex part is 5mm deep

3:09 AM

even better if it turns out to be 4 as most of the mould is from 4mm sheet

It has to be two parts, if it would be just one you will have a pretty hard time to work on tolerancing your sheets

So the "double male adapter" creates an axial sealing when tightened towards its bottom. If it is just one part you have to make sure everything is toleranced below 0,05mm in order to prevent escaping plastic at the adapter. And the nuts itself already vary by +/-0,1 mm ...

5:25 AM

(in thickness)

hm yea ok.. thanks

8:54 AM

i might have to go with the blank as in the drawing because I cant go any deeper, i'll put a nut on the outside to make a seal

Hello fellow humans, Has anyone built the geodome on here? Or has anyone made one completely from plastics? Beams, mounts the lot?

@Zero Plastics Australia that is actually my plan as soon as i lay my hands on my V4 extrusion machine (hopefully in upcoming weeks :D)

12:13 PM

my plan is for it to be made 100% out of recycled LLDPE

12:13 PM

beams, connectics & sheets (with ironing method)

Has anyone build a v4 shredder pro yet? I have some questions to ask

@sharma.sagar94 : just shoot, metal workers don't care much about what machine it is after all

4:15 PM

got the v4 extruder motor plate done, after 6 hours 3 cm thick, 16cm diameter, registers on both sides. that won't be possible without a larger lathe, thanks to the adjustable 4 jaw chuck, it's dead on 0.02mm. 3 more parts to make, we publish a how-to gallery. what a beast :-)))

1

@Deleted User by question i meant I have a request to conduct a test, so it should be someone who has the machine at their disposal

Is there anyone help me design a machine that can produce 60 - 80mm thick hard plastic sheets? Need to also be at least 1m x 1m in size?

7:36 PM

If it could use recycled plastic would be even better?

@Dazza 80 mm thick sheet

Yes

@Dazza that would weight around 90 kgs, and the amount of heating element required would be great and even after that the plastic would melt or not who knows

For something like that, you might have to look at different techniques, entirely. Additive manufacturing or using a densifier to pour the plastic like concrete. I have no idea if injection could work. I'm guessing no. Unless you use several injectors. (?)

Thank you, if the multiple injections method was feasible, what sort of costing approximately would this system cost to set up?

@Nick - PP France have you tried making the molds using an injection machine?

@Zero Plastics Australia no, i only have a compression machine atm

if the multiple injections method was feasible, what sort of costing approximately Yes, it's a big IF. And it would be sooo slow. But essentially it would be like extruding several beams, simultaneously. So the price of an extruder x N (the number you need.) Probably with some more complex control system (?) I'm not really the person to ask. It's highly speculative. And most builders probably wouldn't even try and advise you to look at fully industrial machines. On a smaller scale, I'm thinking a really big, DIY 3D-printer is probably your best bet, for something with those dimensions. Unless heat welding two sheets on the large surface is feasible. Again, I have no idea.

Is building the Shredder Pro out of SS304 a good idea if we keep the cost aside for now?

hey everybody, did the second part for the v4 extruder:

about 1.5 days to make
around twice as much more support for axial load
about 2-3 times cheaper ( material fees now at 70 euro for the bearing block, instead of a few hundreds)
about 2-3 times more available parts
but best part : needs only a big lathe, but no TIG, no mill and the like
scale-able for even bigger screws more updates soon, happy tackle (gallery) : https://rawcdn.githack.com/plastic-hub/products/ef907aeff650e74bbff1882c667a2481dca3e33e/products/lydia-v4/making/gallery/index.html

(edited)

random

10:04 PM

and sorry guys, we've just got told that there is basically no way to contribute to v4 updates; also we've got banned from the feedback channel - just for asking about so we have to keep maintaining updates for v4 elsewhere, no biggy

So for the 80mm thick sheets. What about a combination press and injection mold? So you place the mold in the heated press so the mold stays hot. Then you use an injection or extruder system to fill the mold. The heated press keeps it warm enough so it doesn't solidify between injections/extrusion. This makes the production of the sheet faster than waiting for it to thoroughly melt. Built the mold with a floating top so you can get an idea of when the mold is full because it wants to float up/put pressure on the top plate of the press.

10:09 PM

Just a thought, but the only way I can really see getting such a large block made.

1

2

I am making a plastic extruder... Does anyone know a cheap motor that would work well for this?

1

If anyone wants it, I have just made a rendered model of the shredder v4 for fun

1

Parts shortages due to the virus really hitting harder here yesterday. My motor supplier is out of stock and he said 'maybe' in a few weeks if or never resupply. flange bearings for the v3 shredder scarce unless I get SKF brand at 2x the cost previously.

1

The other option for large blocks of plastic 1.2m x 1.2m x 80mm would be to solvent weld them. That would depend on your plastic. You could solvent weld (coat surfaces with solvent and then press them together while they dried) ABS with acetone, PETG (and maybe PET) with ethyl acetate. I am sure you could find others for different materials as well. It would be cheaper than making a large injection/extrusion mold to go in a press/oven. It would just take extra steps (make lots of thinner sheets, then coat with solvent and press them all together until dry). Just another thought on how to get the thicker sheets.

1

BTW, I noticed that my silicone mold release spray smelled like lemons. It is 2 USD a can. Yesterday I was at a sotre and they had furniture polish for less money. Reading the ingredients, it is the same thing. Silicone oil, propellent and lemon scent.

3

@Butte (PP Philippines) that would work, I've either read or heard it somewhere, i dont remember where

The other option for large blocks of plastic 1.2m x 1.2m x 80mm would be to solvent weld them. That would depend on your plastic. You could solvent weld (coat surfaces with solvent and then press them together while they dried) ABS with acetone, PETG (and maybe PET) with ethyl acetate. I am sure you could find others for different materials as well. It would be cheaper than making a large injection/extrusion mold to go in a press/oven. It would just take extra steps (make lots of thinner sheets, then coat with solvent and press them all together until dry). Just another thought on how to get the thicker sheets.

@Arson you could also just fuse them together with surface heating :p why do complicated when you can do it easily :p

10:42 AM

i'm curious @Butte (PP Philippines), on what process do you use mold release spray ?

@Nick - PP France I solvent weld 3D prints, so it is my first thought. I figure it would be easier than trying to surface heat 5-6 sheets of 1.2m by 1.2m. To me I can brush on the solvent, stack the sheets, and then press them and let them set and dry easier. But I am sure they each have their pros and cons.

pros = maybe faster to do depending on the process cons = big limitations to re-recyclabilty :)

@Butte (PP Philippines) : just got some feedback from aliexpress suppliers after asking them about the virus situation - they told us that 1. virus is now under control, and there is business as usual ... anyways, lesson learned - for us at least, don't rely on China

@Deleted User india would be happy to help

yeah, wasn't there a aliexpress like version in India too ? can't recall the name .

If I was to build the shredder pro, would I really need 23 of the 13 tooth 6mm hardox blade?

@Deleted User don't know about that but I can certainly buy and ship items to you if the quantities are reasonable

Hi everyone ! I am going to build a shredder and I am looking for my future motor. When I asked to a local shop for the motor, he asked me if it needed to come with the gearbox. I am not a electronic or mechanical expert but I looked into it. From what I understood, the gearbox is used to lower the RPM output of the motor to make it more manageable. My questions are:

do I need a motor with an integrated gearbox ?
is it exactly the same motor I can use for the shredder basic and the shredder pro ? Thanks in advance

Hi Thomas, you can usually buy the motor and gearbox separately, the gearbox lowers the rpm, but also increases the torque. As the pro shredder is larger, it requires a bigger, more powerful motor than the smaller single axis one

3:50 PM

Where are you based?

Hi ! thanks for your answer, I think I got confused because in the shredder pro making video, we can see that a gearbox is required to generate the torque needed, but I was wondering if another gear was already inside the motor case itself ! So i guess the answer is no

I am based in Cyprus

We are trying to start a community point there !

Does anyone have plans for a diy hand crank shredder?

Hey everyone, do you really need stainless steel for the extruder or is ordinary steel oke? Many thanks!

@Jappetto Bicycle shredder (?) https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/605683727770583050/675268121141182464

Good morning everybody, we've got now 6 requests for the dual sheetpress - mostly from small enterprises, in 2 weeks just. They told us that a size of 1.22m x 2.40 is just a perfect standard. Looks like a unique business opportunity for builders. There are still open challenges to solve : 1. too many holes for the cartridge heater blocks : TIG might be fine 2. use heatwire instead of cartridge heaters (i am waiting for parts) 3. make it ship-able : solved : one press cell is now 1.40m | 1.40m x 60m 4. ideally the press plate has no holes at all and can be tweaked for vacuum forming as well, @Timberstar had a few good ideas recently, will report back soon 5. hydraulic system : not tested yet, but soon 6. split the press plate into 4 heat zones, for 50x50 sheets 7. integrate cooling press : seems difficult but not impossible :-) we keep the updates as said on github till all is sorted : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/sheetpress-cell happy building (edited)

2

@Deleted User i was wondering about this type of silicone heat pad.. they are for heating oil barrels, but maybe could be used flat, this one goes to 220C: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/general-heating-elements/1065430/ (edited)

4:41 PM

there are cheaper ones: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Oil-Drum-Heater-55Gallon-Silicon/dp/B07QXN8VNL/ref=pd_sbs_328_1/258-2572797-4789548?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07QXN8VNL&pd_rd_r=dae6d6e0-bf10-4934-9ad7-4829af769a9c&pd_rd_w=BcudJ&pd_rd_wg=itOfK&pf_rd_p=96cae456-8d7a-4bc1-91c7-9b20b4dfd7c9&pf_rd_r=NQ9TASAVAHK78K1AKCGM&psc=1&refRID=NQ9TASAVAHK78K1AKCGM (edited)

4:43 PM

just need to fix them to the back of a metal plate, maybe just glue them on with silione

Why do people need to heat barrels?

recycling cooking oil into fuel

1

4:45 PM

also in the food industry

4:46 PM

some stuff is too sticky to pour out unless you warm it up

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9yHR_YBXyM

BriskHeat Corporation

BriskHeat Drum Heater

@Deleted User or DIY version using silicone, this could be a good way to go https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHbbZnK9E0c

Adam Adikimenakis

How to make you own Heated Bed for a 3D printer

5:40 PM

maybe better to squash the silicone between 2 sheets though, to make sure there are no air bubbles. I would try to do without the metal tape too.

5:45 PM

I imagine the teflon element in a layer of silicone squashed between 2 layers of aluminium sheet.

yeah, we had also larger hot beds on table - god ones actually but considering you want to melt 3cm thick sheets we didn't want to take any risk

5:47 PM

220 degc for hours, ....

3cm... ok...!

#v4-extruder wasn't too hard after all, mainly lathe, a bit welding , 2 days now. motor plate : OD 16 cm| 3cm thick, bearing housing: OD 95mm, ID 62mm, drive shaft : 35 mm | screw shaft was 20 mm - I just welded a 40 mm bar on it and turned it down to 35 mm and left the shoulder | barrel flange : cut off from the bearing housing as well.

1

7:18 PM

pretty much design on the go actually ... accuracy 0.05mm - thanks to the adjustable 4 jaw chuck (edited)

From which material are the spacers made of the shredder v4 pro?

@luuk : mild steel , according to the BOM (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Lxjf18IIPvAGDSyj3Mgu82NhVF4AmeHptwvmrgrhuyU/edit#gid=1259853839), if not, check the jump page : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/shredder-v4/

Hello.

I need information on Styrofoam powdering machine. Please revert. Thank you

It is taking a lot of time for me to powder a cement bag of styrofoam; nearly an hour for that. Therefore, I am in need of a machine which can powder styrofoam of huge volume within a just time. Please revert. Thank you. I am actually making concrete out of styrofoam, so the quantity required is huge.

@Bharani commercial machines tend to compress bales of eps in to high density and then shred. Not sure if that would suit your application. EPS as a concrete additive seems pretty radical. Assuming its been tested for strength and durability? (edited)

Best to ask in #🍚india. The rest of us can only web-search and hope that we are looking at the right thing.

Hey everybody, we're designing v4/v3 extrusion addons/improvements the next weeks. In particular an extrusion controller, where you can add and enable features as you go : basic improvements: 1. joystick or momentary button to record and replay and extrusion times; might be handy to fill up molds faster this way 2. 6 programmable speeds : rotary encoder dial knob 3. foot-pedal extra safety: 1. jam detection 2. min heat time before you can extrude 3. motor overload/heat detection class room features: 1. touch screen to select profiles - this involves multi-channel PIDs - finally automation features: 1. clamp system to enable full automatic injection - this will be added as addon and you have to wire your existing extrusion accordingly, comes with touch screen as well 2. pellet cutting system if I forgot anything, ... let me know. there was filament on the table again but we dropped it since only PET seems suitable but requires a different screw anyways.

@lechatblanc We have Styrofoam which is made suitable for refrigeration packing (which I feel is sufficiently dense). What is the machine which shreds EPS? This concrete can be used for partition walls, shed roof tops & for flooring. May I request the details of the machine?

4:16 PM

@Frederik C (ZA) Oh ok. I will try. Thanks

1

@Bharani try eps-recycle.com . I can't vouch for the quality or price.

#archived-machineser-warning : no refill of the AliExpress stock for cartridge heaters

- anytime soon. what's left are those 100mm cartridge heaters but even those are soon gone to

my bad, it's refilled now again : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32867272365.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.133d4c4dqQ8stz

@🤙v4-team : is this kind of quality and 'craft' still possible with the v4 extruder 'recommended' speeds of 200 RPM + ? Sorry for coming back to this but I remember well that this was only possible with pretty low speeds ... thanks in advance. I am also wondering that the shredder extruder combos are still possible with speeds that high. I opted for now 1:10 on 1500RPM so that I can still go 50% down on the VFD; 75 RPM is still insane fast for extruding

(edited)

@Bharani are you looking for something like this https://youtu.be/4wbcwirrJAs Or this https://youtu.be/G7nMnN-q5Vo

James Biggar

Build A DIY Styrofoam Mulcher

Plans Available

East Field

eps Styrofoam shredder-recylcle foam grinding machine

@Deleted User VFDs can do 1-100%

yeah, just that anything 50% below or above rated speeds will heatup the motor badly - it's not recommended

10:43 AM

I would love to meet the guy who turned PP into this factory/workspace stuff ...

how about vector control?^^

mh, will have to study it first; how this will help, i mean in practicable terms ?

10:49 AM

yeah, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_control_(motor) doesn't give amazon links :-))

Vector control (motor)

Vector control, also called field-oriented control (FOC), is a variable-frequency drive (VFD) control method in which the stator currents of a three-phase AC electric motor are identified as two orthogonal components that can be visualized with a vector. One component defines ...

so you're saying some VFDs have this built-in ? can't find much on the shopping sites.

Normal VFDs drop their output current pretty bad under ~30%, so Vector Control works against that and enables regular operation at lower speeds. You find this in all industry standard (younger than 10years) mid-prized VFDs. But needs a bit more care on the motor selection ;) e.g. https://docs.rs-online.com/6f08/0900766b815c01fb.pdf

cool, thanks - i have a couple of MX2s here - will try it out

MX2s start from 400$, for 3-4Kw it's near the double

i guess you can find it even in chinese no-name VFDs nowadays

so I guess I have to watch out for control-methods : 'Phase-to-phase sinusoidal pulse with modulation PWM (Sensorless vector control, V/F) '

@Deleted User @Fritz @easymoulds yea! PWM brushless DC for the win! can be done with arduino :https://github.com/misan/dcservo

misan/dcservo

Position control of DC motors. Contribute to misan/dcservo development by creating an account on GitHub.

i don't think there are that many DC motors with 2kW+ out there @Timberstar

4:36 PM

Nice project however, good motor control tool for Arduino

@Fritz @easymoulds https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1418/1KW,-2KW-or-3KW-110BLF-Brushless-DC-Motor

1KW, 2KW or 3KW 110BLF Brushless DC Motor - RobotDigg

This series brushless DC motor, compared to the existing products in the market, because of the design innovation makes ...

4:41 PM

https://en.nanotec.com/products/1532-asb87s048030-enm/

ASB87S048030-ENM - Brushless DC motor with protection class IP65 – ...

NEMA 34 BLDC motor (86 mm) with protection class IP65 (except shaft output). This motor requires no additional Hall sensors and is therefore extremely fail-safe. The reference signal is synchronous to the hall phase for even more exact positioning. For higher torques and a wid...

Okay then we only need a 1:10 reducer and a motor driver. Sure you can use one but it wont be the most efficient solution. Thats why nowadays most servo motor above a certain power rating are AC driven.

yea it might not be ideal for a shredder.. i'm looking at them for our 3d printer project instead of steppers. PMW seems to be industry standard for larger machines where missed steps are a bigger problem

4:49 PM

and backlash

4:51 PM

ODrive is an open source board for AC servo control: https://odriverobotics.com/

ODrive

ODrive - High performance motor control for robotics. Open source and affordable.

Super useful for those size servos of a 3D printer! Always planned to convert to servos, but never got started becuase the steppers just worked always "good enough"

1

i think Odrive would be ok for a shredder no? 100A power...

shredder rather not I'd say - the discussion started about the extrusion - in particular being able to extrude slower than v4 exposes right now. also, the extrusion & shredder combo is the most demanded machine for us; so we need something which enables us to run a v4 or v3 extruder together with a v3 (80RPM) or v3.5ish (50RPM dual-axis) shredder - not simultaneous but may be it does

morrenttrading's shredder wants just 1.5kw. However, to me this seems all possible with one motor config but tests will tell soon the facts

For now I am confident that there is a sweet spot in the 1:15 -1:20, without adding too much pricey extras - even though not perfect but good enough for most users we have.

robodigg in trouble : https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=4UA-5eQmYBI&app=desktop&ab_channel=RobotDiggShanghai back to manual machining extrusion screws

|-:

10:21 AM

That must be scary as a citizen, but also as a business owner.

yeah, it's pretty odd feeling too, sitting here at the screen being worried about supplies whilst folks down there die en mass. I was about to say, luckily there is still injection & shredder machines to sell .. - feels just like on the titanic (edited)

10:24 AM

aus stock exchange lost $52b value today, mostly cos everyone has been releasing downgraded earnings whatsits thanks to the worlds factory being mostly closed

little update, Robodigg said that they may continue after 15th of March.

10:36 AM

@Deleted User - oh dear - here's a new ticker : https://www.theguardian.com/business/live/2020/feb/24/coronavirus-spread-china-stock-market-sterling-ftse-italy-korea-gold-business-live time to initiate 'Precious Life'

10:39 AM

yeah it's shitty all over, feel bad for the guys on the ground over there

hey everybody, our v4 extruder followup is now pretty much set (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/lydia-v4) the only things left are firmware updates, BOM (optional comfort & safety as requested often) : jam-detection, contactors but also a remote joystick to record´n replay extrusion times as well control extrusion speed. More or less in materials this is about 2400 Euro, but already with all extras as better heatbands, PIDS, joystick. Another thing which is still unclear is the hopper mount but I guess we follow just best practice and do the circular flange as already tested by @Butte (PP Philippines). Also, as said, this variant is easier and cheaper, stronger as well it's scalable.

5:38 PM

Hey, need help with injection machine

5:46 PM

Which PID Controller should I use? C100? C400? C700? C900?

its c100 but it has weird issues as *overshoorting', 'inkbird itc-100VH' is a better choice

Thanks a lot

you're welcome

what you guys are using to make the books ? we use for now zoho books (pretty nice!) but yet, it seems we have to employ somebody half-time to just get this one right and in sync ... exhausting.

7:38 PM

in top of books, there is a whole of other bunch tools : CRM, ads, calls, support. ... so its near full time to get all this done right .. (edited)

anyone active in Thailand?

@Patrick see #deleted-channel

Hey everybody, since the v3 Shredder is by far the most requested machine as well we figured a few more things in the last 12 months building it as well the community's interest to shred other things as well, we thought it's time to re-design the whole thing just:

quick replaceable sieve
32mm hexbar, 30mm shaft as already done since long in our production
challenge: quick release of the entire axle for a different blade configs - Styrofoam, textile, and whatever comes along
hardox 6mm blades but with 1/3 - 2/5 less for the cutting edge's circumference, that should lower energy waste a lot
also, we won't do the v3.1 flanges for a number reasons like maintaining compactness (lab setups, bench configs) and modularity - ie: PET grinder add-on
all the other extras are already there : auto-reverse and soon auto-shred as well auto-suspend/resume
5 more blades
backward compatible wherever possible - so you can upgrade with minimal invest

It's getting a little custom but don't worry, we keep this 'DIY' all the way long as well keep the price low as possible. We don't know yet the perfect speeds yet but time will tell soon. Any thoughts are welcome (as always, this is gonna be open source and your credits will be listed). (edited)

my prototype injector's parts are starting to arrive. let's see if I can make it for cheap enough to sell effectively.

1

if I really get it going, it'll be $500 (not counting shipping) and require less than $50 in tooling, assuming you have none to begin with.

1

1:20 AM

(but no promises XD. in any case, it'll be like a budget arbor injector.)

I am trying to assemble the injector for my school and I was wondering what gauge wire to use for the electronics? I have the power cables already

Anyone ever looked at making a small press? say a foot x foot sheet press? I'm looking at maybe using two heat press (t-shirt machine). Those machines use one heated plate. I was thinking about taking one of them and disassembling one and using the heated plate and temp control for the bottom of the other. That way you end up with two heated plates. It would be a pretty cheap machine (under US$400).

yep, it´s a project for now, @Butte (PP Philippines) did a cool one, and ours is on the way, 50x50cm, materials around 400E (edited)

Are there any plans?

@Arson , not really, but a directory, we maintain some community driven projects in a fixed place : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/community , will be there some time after we massaged the v4 sheetpress details. (edited)

Hello. When you take the plastic from the mould, should it have cooled down? What temperature should the mould be? Thanks!!

if the plastic is not cool inside the mold, it'll bend when you take it out. some people dunk the mold in water to speed it up, others wait, to reduce stress and shrinkage a bit. harder plastics probably benefit better from extended cooling times

1

great, thankyou @nubnubbud

@Arseniy (PL) You are right, it should be 840 for the 2200W, but i think they took tho 3000W for Minimum, because 3000 - 4000W is recommended. For 3000W it is 1146Nm... Arseniy (PL)28.01.2020 @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto so it's still a mystery...

@Arseniy (PL) They edited the torque value for the shredder pro. Now it´s clear right?

the v3 extruder btw. is now also suddenly quite off ..

2:40 PM

1.5kw at 400V on the little wood auger might even break

2:43 PM

prices:

motor is around 280 | 3p 800W, with 1:30 reducer (for good quality extrusions)
compression screw : 120$ + 60$ import
5 heatbands each 22Euro
PID controllers : 20E but better 80E

hi, we already built an injection machine, but we have a problem, the barrel is very dirty, after several cycles and we must clean or the parts come out dirty, has anyone had the same problem?

5:26 PM

someone who can help us PreciousPlastic

Hello,

6:18 PM

I am in the process of hiring out the machining of the HEX bar for V4 shredder shafts, can any one comment on using 1018 cold roll steel vs 1045 hardened? I am in the USA. Thanks for the help.

6:21 PM

Maybe a better question is, Do I need hardened steel for the shaft on V4 shredder, or will a cold roll HEX bar be sufficient?

hi, we already built an injection machine, but we have a problem, the barrel is very dirty, after several cycles and we must clean or the parts come out dirty, has anyone had the same problem?

@JuanCJC Are you using a normal temperature? Is the plastic clean? You can always add some wax into the mix to clean it up? You can also soak a cloth with hot wax and clean what is visible

Hi, @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland the plastic always is clean, the temperature of the tube is 190 degrees and the nozzle 210, what type of wax do you use so that the plastic does not stick

6:30 PM

An example of the dirt that it generates, we inject material before starting the production but still I have to do 3 to 4 cycles to make it cleaner.

We never added wax, might be one of the following: wrong temp, dirty plastic or corroded metal (should not happen normally)

the basic shredder is also using suddenly 400V : https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder. How do we deal with this new & confusing specs? As it's now, we can't link to to that site, plus we would have to place a statement that the page has errors

10:52 PM

just being curious ...

10:54 PM

looks even a little abandoned : 'Latest commit - 26 days ago'

Has anyone picked up on the fact that there's a relatively inexpensive micro extrusion screw on Aliexpress noawadays?

post a link

2:50 AM

@Deleted User where are you getting a compression screw for $120 assume USD?

Hello fellow humans, What would be better for making injection molds on a small to medium production scale? 2 injection machines or 1 extrusion machine? Thoughts?

Injection would allow you to make two at once, plus its a measured amount to suit the mold capacity. The extrusion does not just start stop it has a warm up and cool down and the extrusion continues even after the motor has stopped. It also depends on the mold for example a beam takes a couple of hours to extrude so the only option is extrusion. If its say a drink coaster, it would be more economical, time and material to inject as its a predefined amount of raw material. Hope that helps.

@NoMorePlastic thank you. Yeah I just didn't know what the extrusion machine was limited to but didn't think of the flow on, injection machines it is then. Thanks again.

@Zero Plastics Australia Go for increasing of cavities until the max injection volume/pressure is reached. Then you might go for a second machine to heat up the material simultaneous.

@Fritz @easymoulds thank you, I'm sure I'll have more questions on this as well once I get some injection machines.

Hi, @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland the plastic always is clean, the temperature of the tube is 190 degrees and the nozzle 210, what type of wax do you use so that the plastic does not stick

@JuanCJC For which kind of plastics? that sounds an awful lot of heat. I have tried several and the one recommended by PP the mirror glaze and it works well.

@NoMorePlastic : https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine but weld another shaft on it, it comes with a cute hex out only (edited)

@NoMorePlastic : https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine but weld another shaft on it, it comes with a cute hex out only

@Deleted User We had custom made with a 1 inch round shaft output and 1/4 inch key (imperial shaft and keys more easily avail in the Philippines)

Precious Plastic design single screw and barrel for extrusion machi...

Plastic recycling extrusion or injection Precious Plastic advocates plastic recycling. Precious Plastic created machines...

1:21 PM

Previous generations of machines we used a impact wrench socket to connect to the hex shaft.

cool, we´re never short of ideas

1:22 PM

our screws are 26 and put a 25mm shaft on it and then turn it down to 24 - to be perfectly aligned with the screw

@JuanCJC Looks like degradation and also air bubbles in the barrel. Try smaller plastic granulates and the time the plastic is in the barrel. A feedback is appreciated

@Deleted User @Butte (PP Philippines) thanks guys, we shopped around for a month getting pricing and the best we found was $800 USD for just the screw! Sad I have to go overseas to get value.

So I'm not seeing any of the machine cad files or drawings - am I missing something?

They are in the download kit

that'll do it! thanks!!

#coronavirus Might be a little off topic but if you rely on China & friends, here's pretty much the best tracker I've found : https://bnonews.com/index.php/2020/02/the-latest-coronavirus-cases/

BNO News

Tracking coronavirus: Map, data and timeline

The tables below show confirmed cases of coronavirus (2019-nCoV, officially known as SARS-CoV-2 or COVID-19) in China and other countries. To see a distribution map and a timeline, scroll down. There are currently 85,684 confirmed cases worldwide, including 2,933 fatalities. W...

3:07 PM

we've made 2 refunds this days due to robodigg's uncertainties ...

I've heard that it's a matter of 2 months from now on that it's everywhere which makes sense. Anyone an idea how this look like ? Emergency state ? The end of the monetary world, should we move to the mountains with enough food, water filters, etc.. ... ? However, things I've learned from 2008 was that the government can't be trusted nor had any competence to deal with a crisis at scale. Suggestions are welcome

@Deleted User it's definitely going to throw a spanner in any long term plans you might have to work with other people in person.

3:27 PM

From what I gather, once it's a local epidemic you're going to want to figure out ways that you can be productive working from home.

If I've learned anything from playing Pandemic, Madagascar will be safe

1

Governments around the world are going to be swamped by cases, and due to the high number of people who require treatment, the best thing you can do is avoid getting infected as long as possible.

amen to that - already doing some prep work this way - a pity, we planned to setup a complete open source factory

Doesn't mean you can't.

3:30 PM

But it'll be complicated.

well , i prefer to spend the money on a remote location

Oh, and your regular P2.5 dust filter masks are going to do more harm than good.

3:32 PM

They'll create a moist environment for the virus to survive in.

3:33 PM

From what I can tell, you'll want something more like the wartime chemical biological full face mask.

3:33 PM

With an anti-viral spray.

someone knows a spray ? found only this here :https://time.com/5791414/airlines-disinfectant-coronavirus/ but's not available to the mass

@Deleted User Well I already live in the woods, off grid, solar panels, rain water, Berkey to drink it.. I guess it's already a good point !

8:58 PM

A spray? Why? Better wash your hands and avoid crowded places

1

@JuanCJC Looks like degradation and also air bubbles in the barrel. Try smaller plastic granulates and the time the plastic is in the barrel. A feedback is appreciated

@Andreas what do you mean by degradation?

@JuanCJC The plastic degrades from the heat. It breaks down. Gets cooked too much and the polymer chains break.

9:00 PM

They can scorch and burn

9:01 PM

Same thing happens in 3D printers when you see a dark inclusion in the print

9:02 PM

Could be that there is some residual that was left in the barrel and it got too much heat from the end of the last injection and the start of the new one

I think that is why plastic remains stuck in the tube and during the initial heating, this degradation occurs, how can i clean the barrel?

@Marie.Pan : yeah, the spray is rather for cleaning up supplies - and of course to put another badge on our products/projects 'virus free', right beside the almighty 'true open source' badge

(edited)

I think that is why plastic remains stuck in the tube and during the initial heating, this degradation occurs, how can i clean the barrel?

@JuanCJC add demoulding wax and "sacrifice" a bit of plastic, change the colour so you are sure all the degraded plastic poops out.

Hello everyone ! I would like to study the possibility to create my own 3D FDM filament with an extrusion process. Does some of you have been working on this ? The objective would be to make a 1.75 diameter filament for my FDM printers. I guess it s a pretty complicated project ;). Thanks in advance

@Samoth : have a look here, yeah - you gonna need quite some tech for that : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/articles/filament/ (edited)

@Samoth : have a look here, yeah - you gonna need quite some tech for that : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/articles/filament/

@Deleted User thanks ! there are some very interesting things on this guy's channel. Indeed it looks pretty techy!

PlasticHub

About making filament - Precious Plastic Library

precious plastic machines tutorials shredder extrusion injection bazar wiki filament mold molding

@Samoth there is an very good video i found on that topic, i did not build that thing myself, but the vertical setting he uses looks really really good. It's based on an commercial filament extruder, but the setup looks great and the outcome looks realistic https://youtu.be/59QVttTdLLM

Tony Nameless

wellzoom desktop filament extruder review

Wow looks pretty good ! Thanks for sharing !

1:52 PM

I wonder if such extruder can be used to extrude dirzctly into molds to have a multi purpose system

Open source ecology also has a decent model, the extruder itself is about $150 in terms of parts https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lyman_Filament_Extruder

Lyman Filament Extruder

@Samoth if you are trying to mass produce filament to sell this would be my suggestion. Perhaps if there was a locking mechanism like this https://www.staubli.com/fileadmin/_processed_/1/2/csm_motorsports-couplings-sph-ba-clean-break-tim-2x-29182-jpg-orig_e28d941d98.jpg So that you can link the main melter to a filament making extension. The extension would push the 2cm square tube of incoming plastic into a splitter set to divide it up into slightly larger than your desired size. Sub heaters keep it warm while it passes through a nozzle set to the desired size.

10:18 PM

Then have a single motor rotate several spools.

I heard you need to lots - Lots of machines to actually make $$ with that, up to 40. The smallest all-in-one machines is around 8K. (edited)

You could make money with one. But if you are talking making money to live on and do it full time. Yes, you would likely need a lot more.

10:20 PM

Most DIY ones are 2-8 hours per kilo

Has anyone made frisbees from recycled plastic?

1

That seems like it could be done with a simple mold

11:32 PM

11:33 PM

http://www.madehow.com/Volume-5/Frisbee.html

@Titankore.ai I would think it would be filled from the top or bottom in the center. That way it can get the spread effect on any color changes.

Frisbees need flex, though. And need to be very light. I think material properties are the tricky part. What plastic type do you use? Intuitively, a thin HIPS layer seems right. But HIPS typically snaps when it's very thin. Also, this should be in #deleted-channel. (edited)

@Samoth if you are trying to mass produce filament to sell this would be my suggestion. Perhaps if there was a locking mechanism like this https://www.staubli.com/fileadmin/_processed_/1/2/csm_motorsports-couplings-sph-ba-clean-break-tim-2x-29182-jpg-orig_e28d941d98.jpg So that you can link the main melter to a filament making extension. The extension would push the 2cm square tube of incoming plastic into a splitter set to divide it up into slightly larger than your desired size. Sub heaters keep it warm while it passes through a nozzle set to the desired size.

@Titankore.ai thanks ! the idea is just to show a complete recycling ecosystem. We are opening a fablab and we want to offer FDM capabilities + recycling capabilities. I think it's important to show that we can have a recycling loop from FDM waste to FDM new products. Si it's not about making money or having mass production. Thanks all for your insights

Just an idea for speeding up the process of adding new molds to ones personal library. 1) 3D print the various versions of the mold to do a test run in recycled cardboard of the object. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ItPfhx3ulw 2) Use "Lost pla casting" to remake the molds in scrapped steel or aluminum https://youtu.be/0ow4x0jadJY (how to make a diy mini foundry https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mjlwc4x3GKE) 3) Now you have a new set of molds (a part tree can hold multiple copies to up production) that will last. Since cost of making custom molds goes down drastically it makes it easier to make a larger variety of products.

XYZAidan

Recycle Cardboard into Anything with 3D Printing!

VOG

Lost PLA Casting planetary GEARS gearbox - from 3D printer to alumi...

Made in Poland

Making Electric Aluminum Foundry DIY

6:21 PM

Files for molds could then be shared, people with foundries could cast them for those that don't.

1

6:25 PM

Hello! Im trying to pull up the blueprints to laser cut the parts for the shredder but my microsoft computer isn't working well with the format of the downloads. Any suggestions?

DF

@JuanCJC add demoulding wax and "sacrifice" a bit of plastic, change the colour so you are sure all the degraded plastic poops out.

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland what type of wax is used?

inside a lego factory : https://www.facebook.com/BeyondtheBrickTV/videos/2538879656222995

DF @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland what type of wax is used?

@JuanCJC Mirror Glaze does the job

@alexg Problems with the dxf-files? You can see them with cad-software and your laser-guy can read and nest it with his lasercutter-software;)

1

Is there somewhere a cad-file (.stp, ...) for this shredder box (complete assembly)?: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21 Thanks! (edited)

11:00 AM

hey guys i am ordering the gear box for the shredder pro, the gearbox manufacturer are asking what is tge rotation direction of the gearbox?

11:01 AM

i told them we need both clockwise and counter clockwise. But i think there is a main rotayion direction hence the question

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto : that's all we've got : https://github.com/plastic-hub/pp-v4/tree/master/v3/shredder/cad

11:07 AM

otherwise : the 32mm hexbar version : https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2b6df80/g/shares/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd968a762c6facbd3b0a4?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0BjAE1wA4ATADMA7JwC0AFkkBmAEZS5nRuL4BOOUPEA2XIzlyYAVgEyYnIWgC%2BIALpA | as well the solidworks counterpart : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/zoe/cad

11:08 AM

you can ask @Landry for the v3.1 version

it's overdue since years now

does anyone have separate pdf files with the measurements of all the lasercut parts for the shredder? I am here in India and apparently the workshop where they can make the parts need not only the dxf files but also pdf files with all the measurements. Would be great if someone could help me out

@Nikolalelu : you can open the CAD files in Fusion360 and create drawings there

4:57 PM

actually they need only a single scale to map those dxf files - if not - something is wrong in india

4:57 PM

@Deleted User heyyyy nothing is wrong in India

My supplier doesn't need any drawings ince dxf are provided, this is some weird request that @Nikolalelu is being asked for by his supplier

normally they would only need the dxf file and could use software to tell the machine how to cut it right?

5:13 PM

@Deleted User so I can type in the measurements in Fusion360 and then export it as pdf?

normally they would only need the dxf file and could use software to tell the machine how to cut it right?

@Nikolalelu yes

Hi! Im new here and not sure if this is the right forum but I thought id give it a shot! Does anyone know what particular type of Silicon oil is preferable to use for compression moulding for a quick and easy release that doesn't leave a residue or impact the surface of the plastic? Links to a product would be fantastic! And preferably in europe or even better in Sweden would help a lot. Thank you!

CRC 03300 Silicone Mold Release Spray (Net Fill Weight 12 oz) 16oz Aerosol can. https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0013IZSDM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_NyvyEbSYWHVST

8:44 PM

CRC 03300 Silicone Mold Release Spray (Net Fill Weight 12 oz) 16oz Aerosol can. https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0013IZSDM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_NyvyEbSYWHVST

@sharma.sagar94 Something like this @emily-claire

1

hey folks, it's happening ! Our client convinced us to put a display on the vending shredder (bars, schools, codename 'asterix') to show some performance data. However, since it's the same soup as putting a touch screen on a extruder (v3/v4), we do it in one wash. I just received a RPI4 with a nice touchscreen (just 100$) and toyed with it, it works flawless and boots up pretty fast. Not entirely sure what all to offer on the extruder touch screen but, temperature profiles, automation assistant came to mind. The joystick will replay certain extruder times. Fun stuff but seems legit consider somebody wants to make a business with that

Material fees for the very v4 remains near untouched: 1800E, actually cheaper now because we're ditching the expensive inkbird PIDs for din rail variants (alibaba). In top of touchscreen, you can also control the thing from your phone since it's just a webapp ! Fun stuff, it's basically functioning like a better welder, you store your last settings in a memory slot, well, and more

(edited)

2

1

10:06 PM

please notice btw. the modular design, always ready to plug another device, no waste guys !

What kind of tube tube have you used for the injector, I have not found a completely smooth one in Colombia, I need help

hello guys, i am a new member. i want to ask a question about shredder pro. why are there two types of knife. one have 6 teeth in a knife, the others have 14 teeth.

CAD-Model shredder 2.1

1

1:11 PM

00_shredder_3D_model_v2.1.stp

3.94 MB

1:14 PM

Ahoj, if someone needs a cad model of the shredder 2.1. I just constructed the laser part changes from 2.0 to 2.1 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21) and added the new hopper with the pusher...

1

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto do you know why are there two types of knife. one have 6 teeth in a knife, the others have 14 teeth in shredder pro

@richard997 they've tested it and found it to be the best possible combination. The v4 team have spent almost ba year working and developing it

Hi all- I, like many most North and Central Americans, am looking for definitive conversions of the plans from Metric to Imperial. Yes, I wish we could convert the whole world to the simplicity of metric measurements - though until then it’s incredibly cost preventative to do the project with metric stock steel. Does anyone have the plans for any machines or CAD with all the measurements already neatly plugged in? Otherwise I feel we need a committee to really get this done

2

very, very sexy 'builder' Instagram account : https://www.instagram.com/swisstoolmaker/

Hi all! I'm new here and currently situated in the US, does anyone know where I can buy the electronics for the Injector in the US?

@Benj : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/injection/, look for 'inkbird' or and 'pid temperature controller', or 'ssr', comes often as bundle. heatbands : currently china is pretty bumpy but last orders had only a delay of 2 weeks : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33048321207.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.775ec005KEFgnF

12:20 AM

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01N2XZ4HV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

leaving this here for inspiration

@Butte (PP Philippines) seems to have a next gen version :-)

2

1

Hello friends! I was given a chopper for SolidWorks assembly project "SHRPRO-V1 1000.00-A Shredder V4 Assembly.SLDASM", but there are not enough files. Does anyone have a complete archive with all the files?

This is all needed files:

2:00 AM

SHRPRO-V1 Hinge.SLDASM SHRPRO-V1 19 5V 500mA power supply.SLDASM Current limit pkzm01-63.SLDPRT Display 16x02.SLDASM SHRPRO-V1 15 3 phase general switch.SLDPRT SHRPRO-V1 20 Cable gland M25.SLDPRT SHRPRO-V1 22 DIN rail.SLDPRT (edited)

@davehakkens Hi, pls add files to precious-plastic-starterkit-shredder-master.zip

weird, in my version there are only washers and spacers missing (edited)

@axez : there are more parts in .. /00 - Commercial parts

10:54 AM

but you're right, those files are not there

incredibly powerful small actuators running on RS485 open protocol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsOPZltbvgM

Skyentific

I found Best Robot Actuator (GYEMS: RMD x8)

but you're right, those files are not there

@Deleted User And in the description @davehakkens need to write a version of Solidworks. I tried several and did not understand which version of the files. As a result, I looked at the files in SW 2020. (edited)

1:37 PM

And why there are no drawing files. (edited)

@Deleted User Hi my name is John from ukraine l have been following. you in previous plastic, l want to invest on this work shop as a business, but l do not know we're to start,please can u give me ideal of the finish product l can produce with this technology

How to get started: Learn about plastic: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/basics Find one or more niches for yourself, in the Precious Plastic Universe, in your location: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/universe/universe Check the map to see what's near you: https://community.preciousplastic.com/map Calculate the financial action plan, if you are planning a formal business structure: https://preciousplastic.com/solutions/business-tools Deciding what products to make is a long, trial and error process that depends on your environment and community. You can get ideas from: The #archived-showcase channel on the Discord server, https://preciousplastic.com/solutions/products and the community tutorials at https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to. (edited)

@Lukeman. John I am afraid there is not more material available at the moment than listed by @Frederik C (ZA). Major problem is if it's any 'good' and 'sells', even the so called eco crowd usually don't share much details about it - apparently thinking only them should be able to sell it - on the entire planet, produced often in a little workshop ... (edited)

@Lukeman. John : be prepared to spend a good load of time & $$ to find a good product, pretty quick you may realize that you need a specialized process & machinery ...

is 3 tons enough for an arbor press? im wondering about the possibilities of this type of jack:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zerone-Automotive-Electric-Scissor-Lifting/dp/B07BRK3S9X

Anyone who has already a low cost or self made washing machine for Plastic flakes?

is there anyone can help me to make a video for redrawing the blade of shredder V2.0 in inventor software.

Another incredible piece of tech, could be useful for builders, especially for mouldmaking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iW6AHl0UvG0

Thomas Sanladerer

First look at the Shaper Origin - a template router that needs no t...

10:54 AM

obviously dont try to do 2mm depth of cut in aluminium like he does

been waiting on them to finally release a 220v version

11:06 AM

they don't seem to be in much of a hurry

11:06 AM

plus 2500usd cost

11:11 AM

at least the handibot is available in 220. more spendy tho at about 5k https://handibot.com/handibot.php

I wouldn't mind running it on a transformer, but yeah... pricey. I imagine it could be made to pay for itself though

11:13 AM

The positioning tech is very interesting though, there could be a few applications/hacks, maybe with an extruder in place of the spindle etc

oh neat, the handibot is some kind of open source as well https://github.com/Handibot/handibot-hardware

2

1

made from.....sheet plastic? could this thing replicate itself out of PP sheets??

I assume it's sheet metal

11:17 AM

no idea

it says ' rigid, aluminum-reinforced frame '

11:20 AM

whats the stuff which is being reinforced? I reckon it might be sheet acrylic

11:25 AM

in the exploded diagram I can see the aluminium sheet parts

11:25 AM

reckon it could replicate those too

11:29 AM

someone who is making PP sheets should approach Handibot and try to form a collaboration

@Deleted User the bill of materials says its actually HDPE sheet!

12:09 PM

https://github.com/Handibot/handibot-hardware/blob/master/parts/HandibotV1.03.00%20BOM.pdf

Handibot/handibot-hardware

Open Source Hardware for the Handibot Smart Tool. Contribute to Handibot/handibot-hardware development by creating an account on GitHub.

that is pretty darn rad

yea! nice find!

Hey ya all. I am new here and i just want to start with the injection moulder. can someone point me to an precision tube vendor that is suposedely not on ebay and overpriced? the tube for the machine would cost 30 bucks. couldnt i get a 35mm one with 3mm wall from here? https://www.hytec-hydraulik.de/verschraubungen/rohrleitungshop1.html would be 11,5 for half an meter or even the "Gewinderohr" ? which has 1inch pipes that have OD 33,7 and ID 25mm (edited)

Rohrleitungen und Hydraulikrohre im Hytec Hydraulik Onlineshop

Stahlrohre, Edelstahlrohre, Gewinderohre und Rohrbiegevorrichtung im Hytec-Hydraulik Online-Shop. Wir bieten: 24h Lieferservice, niedrige Versandkosten, kein Mindestbestellwert, technische Beratung, Schlauchkonfigurator, u.v.m.

Sorry I do not speak english very well. but I'm having trouble downloading the plans to build a Shredder Pro

We will use a chromed steel tube internally, but its interior is 31.4 mm, has anyone made the calculations of what is the limit of injection force?

Touchscreen for PP machines is moving forward

1

++

--

TakeRep <User:User> [Num:Whole number] Invalid arguments provided: Not enough arguments passed

1

I didn't make an "invalid argument!" You gave an invalid response. I've passed plenty of arguments! F$%k you, robot! You're not the boss of me!

9:45 PM

Sigh... Okay... I'm sorry, robot. Are we still friends?

Oh... I see... The old silent treatment. Okay...

I didn't realize we had a bot >.>

10:08 PM

Other than Kat

she da best bot

1

I didn't realize we had a bot >.> You can't have auto-roles on your server, without a bot. PP Bot is based on YAGbot. But auto-role management is pretty much all it does. Most other functions are not configured.

Yeah, bad brain moment. A "thought toot", if you will

TakeRep <User:User> [Num:Whole number] Invalid arguments provided: "++ @Frederik C (ZA)" is not a whole number

I knew you couldn't stay mad at me... You little flirt...

1

@brootio : 30e is already the half of Ebay's offers as far I remember; however a metal supply near you would be around 10 bucks, yeah (edited)

12:29 AM

5mm+ is better wall thickness!

12:30 AM

heatbands come for 30, 35, 40,...

12:30 AM

@Frederik C (ZA) seems a funny bot today, i want one too now

she da best bot Yeah... the ones programmed in Germany are very life-like. Almost human.

Well... it was nice being on the server guys... I'll look you up after my ban.

@Frederik C (ZA) ? usually it's just me and some fake me-s getting banned

@Deleted User Hello, what software did you use in your last screenshot to make the touchscreen menu ? looks nice.

https://github.com/plastic-hub/control-freak, but i have to fix quite a few things as I notice, browsers changed a lot the past years

i guess it needs some powerful controller to run those screens at a reasonable fps rate?

not really, it was made first for wall computers (raspberry/beagle,..) - controlling building and theater equipment; but yeah, with 100 + devices in the system it gets some glitches. later on, the interfaces were primarily rendered on more powerful phones and tablets and most of the logic is running there then (webapp). the author can choose where the code runs: on the server (PI or bigger) or on the client side. I am adding now more protocols: profibus, CAN and modbus

for now there are abstractions for serial, udp, tcp, rpc, mqtt. some of them are quite fast, fast enough to show a realtime equalizer (FFT)

(edited)

11:14 AM

the client who gave this in contract did mostly AV hardware interfaces for cinemas/theatres. took me/us around 4 years to make it

11:20 AM

so yeah, if it's just button interfaces, it can be PI3+; if you have real time data as FFTs, then better PI4 - depends also a little on the protocols and hardware you can connect it.

oO impressive work! Did you consider a combination of an ESP32(+simple control hardware) for collecting the data and using a Phone for the advanced controls?

not really yet - I am actually looking for an alternative stack and there seem now more stable and update to date HMI makers out there - still undecided but we need actually something soon. The 'control-freak' software as it is now became quite a big piece of mud over the years - despite there is high quality code (IBM & friends) and it's insane flexible, and well, open source. most good IoT/HMI interface makers won't run locally as far I remember but technically if I'd would make the hardware all accessible via MQTT or the like, folks can use whatever they want. Was even thinking to map PP machine functions to GCode just, which is also a big question right now ... I am quite outdated honestly, and now the market is full of stuff, no idea. I love the Arduino compatible platforms a lot and we wanna keep it this way. (edited)

for now I am very happy about this here : https://www.controllino.biz/product/controllino-maxi-automation/ . it replaced relays, power supplies, DIY din rail mounts and the tedious wiring - rather messy. there were other din rail options but double the price.

1:16 PM

easy to hookup on a PI via serial (also for remote firmware updates)

Yeah seems like a reasonable build

I know as soon as you dive a bit deeper into HMI development. I planned to set up a combination of Nextion Display for the UI (they have an awesome UI editor) and an ESP32 for network connectivity and a simple set of hardware user elements - because you dont want to have the button you press 200 times a day as a touchscreen window. G-Code would be an option, but I guess it gets really messy if you have to implement realtime functions in there. I don't know if there are any Arduino frameworks for sensor readout and machine control out there? Somehow a total no-brainer for all those Linear scales, RPM controls, inductive sensors, temp sensors... its not rocket science really^^

2:48 PM

alright, finishing my machine up, but I'm a bit concerned; the suggested heaters only have two wires. I'm not quite sure how to ground them to earth, as suggested by the wiring diagram here.

2:49 PM

that is, unless this simply means that a short inside the band heaters will ground to chassis, in which case I should connect the chassis to ground.

2:55 PM

is realizing just how important that fuse probably is.

@Fritz @easymoulds : yeah, will check it out, sounds great already. GCode came to mind to make the extrusion & injection clamp addon easier going but yeah, a simple 'command value' with a good response - protocol will do this better. implementing support for AV hardware showed me actually lots of insights on how to do that - mostly real time based feedback (edited)

@nubnubbud you just place a bare wire between the barrel and one heater. -> they are all connected to the same barrel, so assuming they are conductive it should be fine. To check your machine savety the total resistance of the earth line from the plug to every electrical or conductive part should be below 2ohm

@nubnubbud : yes, that's the idea - unless you want to put some heat resistant ink on the barrel (you should) then yes, ground each heatband which is also demanded by some regulations as for public installations like museums, ...

I'm making this as barebones as possible, leaving mods and prep like paints and such to the user, but I'm using heat-proof silicone coated wire throughout the entire machine, as any part, almost, could get hot, with the amount of throughput it should be able to handle.

3:01 PM

I imagine that'll be better than bare, touchable wire in this case.

well, shipping 'complete' machines unlocks usually better margins

but shipping "easy build" and "expert build" kits I'd imagine pull better sales numbers, with a much lower price.

3:05 PM

as well, those who know how it goes together, and how the parts work, can fix it if something goes wrong, or modify it more reliably, with better understanding of the processes

i can only speak for the average audience we have here, 80% total noobs - not knowing even what PID is. the idea is to remove bad surprises for them upfront - imagine a skilled guy is inspecting their machines one day

which is likely to happen anyway because you shipped a half machine, rusting away ..

most of the machine is aluminum. it's not gonna rust.

3:13 PM

aluminum, stainless steel, and only really the inner mechanical parts (which can't get the treatment anyway) can rust.

3:14 PM

and for the noobs, it's an easy build. bolt together, and put the temp sensor in the right place.

3:15 PM

the cheaper option is the full kit, where I just ship out the parts, prepared as needed,

3:15 PM

in both cases you shouldn't need more than a few hex wrenches to construct it.

cool!

https://www.behance.net/gallery/66902733/Heat-Press-Machine

Heat Press Machine

Heat Press

1

hey! does anyone has a good website (hopefully European) where I can buy a set with: PID + SSR relay + Aluminum heatsink + Thermocouple for the injection machine? Thanksssss

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B01N2XZ4HV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, aka' INKBIRD ITC-100VH'

6:05 PM

or if you don't need it precise : 'RexC100c ssr' https://www.amazon.es/s?k=rexc100+ssr&i=industrial&__mk_es_ES=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&ref=nb_sb_noss

6:08 PM

hey everybody, we're on re-designing v3 shredder. as said the cutting edge is too far from the shaft and often there is no benefits - at least for most clients we have. also this design currently pushes you actually into the 3-4kw range to make it really flawless and yet, those blades are not really made for. So here is the thing:

we hope to have still great shredding experience with 1/3+ less cutting edge circumference, since this is unlocking significant more torque:
we increase the blade width to 6 mm
we add 5 more blades (in a variant)
as next we adjust the stationary blades
32mm hexbar/30 mm drive shaft (optional to ensure back compat) optional :
side plates with quick axle release for other blades
does anyone knows about the quick release for the sieve ? , there was a video but I've never found the actual files,... all in all this could be a nice upgrade pack also for existing builds let me know if we forgot something, we send the first laser cut order next week.

god speed, g (edited)

@Deleted User a smaller dual shaft shredder should be looked into I think Somewhere between v3 and v4

yeah - exactly - i think this refinement should fulfill a good v3.5 - which should be the end of it. dual axis comes with other problems as I've seen, couldn't get even MorrenTrading running well with a sieve - yet.

8:34 PM

besides, given the size constraints, we have to put also a kinda electronic plunging system on the dual axis - solved btw, will update here as soon those 4 nema17 pulling the door (plunger) well up and down ... (edited)

@🤙v4-team Heyo, I'm building a PCB for open sourcing based on the strip board schematic. Just want to verify that the top connections to the cap and resistor are to 5v? and the box with X in it is the signal from the hall sensor. Is that correct?

yup - whereby this might be already built-in on the VFD usually, as out signal, or on the board - well, if you use one .. easier to replace from remote btw.

@Deleted User a smaller dual shaft shredder should be looked into I think Somewhere between v3 and v4

@sharma.sagar94 check out andysmachines on youtube. He built a small dual shaft shredder which could be exactly what you are looking for

yeah, thanks but no, dual axis as said seems to be kinda can of flies at the end, considering the hacks and addons to be installed for the sizes we need. we can only afford this for a paid edge case, for bottles only, no reshredding, low power/noise, ... in top, we have not a single fully documented build out there and there are still too many v3 builds out there which we want to back support first btw. as well... now with the virus kicking in, super markets empty, schools closing, private schools next, being a major clientel - maybe it's a good moment to play with ideas

Hi everyone

... I’m a local welder/fabricator from NJ USA and I’m looking to open a machine shop that could help the community reproduce recycled materials into useful products. But I’m doing research to see what is needed most from the community. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Very excited to be apart of the Precious Plastics Community.

2

cool robotic arm, could be made from injected parts... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qihjxvOIFr0

Gear Down For What?

Strangely Satisfying Tentacle Robot - Richard 9000

@Timberstar yeah, we gonna start the revolution from home these days

nice catch!

1

another perfectly useless machine to use til it's over : https://gizmodo.com/to-complete-one-rotation-this-machine-requires-more-tu-1842128408?utm_content=120259128&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook&hss_channel=fbp-153488801415&fbclid=IwAR0iwklpbuo18D8myFq9m3ZDerXzst1uf4qAfY2frNX2ziujjp4ZJZUc_VI

To Complete One Rotation, This Machine Requires More Turns Than The...

Machines like blenders, washing machines, and even your car use reduction drives made of multiple gears to increase the torque or decrease the speed of rotation coming from a motor. Taking that idea to its extreme, Daniel De Bruin built a machine with 100 connected gears that ...

1

^^ #just-chatting

anyone actually tried making molds for gears yet ?

Because almighty Stan mentioned on the forum 4 months ago or so that even 3d printed gears could get you a sort of PP micro factory geared up. The build below basically just needs a better gearing and it seems it could do this with ease

(edited)

btw, the v3.2ish design feels quite alright to me, bicycling or hand shredding might be possible as well

Fix your assembly

@Jonatan | NL ? which one ?

The one you just shared a picture of, a whole map with old stuff lol

ok, what you wanna fix ? - it seems OLD stuff imported from PP v3 for back compat referencing, not sure what you mean

Hey! Where can I found pattern for shredder?

11:43 PM

For cutting parts

11:45 PM

Also, what is the width for metal list?

@! Sshimchuk ART | Wobblebug™ , which version ?

11:48 PM

there is v3.0 (outdated), v3.1 (currently proprietary), v3.1 unofficial, soon v3.2 unofficial, in june we hope v3.5 (dual)- unofficial, and v4 (edited)

The Cad and DXF files are in the new v4 download kit for both current versions, @! Sshimchuk ART | Wobblebug™

@CitSciWorkshop : current ? 3.0 is as said outdated, v3.1 is kept hold back (fixes shaft problem), but at least there is the unofficial 3.1 : https://github.com/catx23/now-project.eu/tree/master/projects/precious%20-%20plastic%20-%20v3/3.%20Build/Shredder/Blueprints/00_laser%20files/32mmHexbar (popular download, 32 mm hexbar, fixes shaft problem). @! Sshimchuk ART | Wobblebug™ if you can wait a few days, we're rolling out v3.2, incl. fixes for the shaft problem as well the 30- 40 % energy waste of v3.0, well and a few other issues (assembly) as well a better auto-reverse which you definitely wanna have too. luckily we've got now lots of spare time

catx23/now-project.eu

Misc files for nowproject.eu Catalonia site - CNC training course material - catx23/now-project.eu

12:57 AM

how is the imperial update going btw ?

I'm speaking in terms of PP official release from 7/1/2020 in the main download kit. Not like, just opinion..

official will be always behind production builds, and we're not the kinda people leaving folks with issues ...

Going great, last parts for our first batch arrive tomorrow, stayed true to the design and made no more than single order changes for available material.

cool

Issues with the basic version?

are you joking ?

No, I'm not. It has limitations, but we've never had functional issues with those taken into account.

1:01 AM

It's a good design.

the forum is full of it - and folks were waiting for updates since years, and now it's just one guy making profit whilst everyone runs else into trouble

From what I can see, the 3.1 adds a flange, and hex axle mods. Not hard to reproduce.

and no, it's wastfule design, and doesn't make sense looking at what people wanna use it for; i guess PP blew terrawatts through the window

1:03 AM

the flanges are just annoying thing

Huh. Well I guess you're welcome to your opinion. It's just kind of funny to live on this forum and bag on it at the same time.

opinion ? there is decent science and a hell of complaints behind

1:06 AM

anyways, we won't ignore any of the complaints, or facts - it's our business and responsibility to get the best out of the design - it's not too bad though. (edited)

I don't think anyone else ignores issues to complaints either, tbh. It's a matter of being supportive about shared ambition for improvement, and respect for what others have provided to the cause. I don't want to tick you off, just saying. (edited)

here's the v3.2 for now : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/shredder_v3 | there is excessive work the next days.

1:12 AM

hasn't much to do with respect, if there is something faulty in a car, the company call is it back - instead of waiting for years and make profits with updates.

1:14 AM

but we do of course have respect for whose who take this issues serious

(edited)

But PP isn't a brand you buy, it's a project and platform, and fellow car makers don't take a car company's plans and make/sell them themselves and blame the company for bad plans if they get a complaint. I don't know if your analogy sticks. Maybe a convo for another time. This thread is about #archived-machines

problem is there are folks keep downloading the wrong plans and community updates are kept far away from them. those folks spent serious money; that's at a point where you can't hide behind the 'project' thingy anymore. so yeah, might be not a problem if it's just a few who go through those issues/problems, as long they're skilled and have the resources,.... anyways, old story - ... (edited)

To your point, when someone asks for the PP laser files and you divert them to your own work in development, that is confusing. Clear answer, updated laser files are in the main v4 download kit. We help improve not "on the side" but " as a part of". Maybe that is where we disagree and I'll leave it at that.

oh we tried all sort of things to get updates in there. please don't forget the context, we do this for a living and we do have serious engineers looking over our shoulders. so yeah, there might be a thing you call official but that's far from what is out there, tested under real conditions, for a very demanding clientel. (edited)

1:37 AM

has btw. nothing to do with trying to divert them, we protect them from a faulty build, that's it.

Interesting perspective. We're professional engineers as well, we don't seem to hold the same opinions.

apparently

it's not just engineers - luckily, it's also guys being in machines over 50 years; math and experiments is one thing, finding the right reducer for the job and requirements seems to be quite another story ..

look how beautiful open source can be : the 32 mm hexbar version btw. has been downloaded around 3000 times; with the reduced blades - as back port, aka v3.2 we might archive a 40% reduction in energy waste - as well reduce the entry barrier even more (now suddenly 400v). so it's not just lowering the risks of shaft breaks but also the required overall power. this worth every single cent and watt being communicated or why would you even remotely discredit such updates if you can't do it even yourself .... (edited)

2:11 AM

especially considering that those machines are imperfect, I'd be extremely happy if somebody fixes issues ... and look what happened too: PP is now at universities, shops, labs, ... for a good reason, another reason to be extremely happy about new yields (edited)

btw. if anyone has ideas on how to swap the entire axle and stationary blades together out of the v3ish housing faster, ... there is still lots of materials folks can recycle. we solved so far the coupling problem, different speeds (belt system on the other side). we had the idea to cut a U slot, upwards the axle but the stationary blades still need a way to get out. making another box inside - as cartridge like dropin would be great.

@Deleted User @CitSciWorkshop I'm kind of triggered by this discussion. You both have good points. It’s basically the same problem we have in all larger factories. I work as a production engineer at Philips and this improvement thing is always a problem between managment and working floor/ operator.

1:44 PM

In my opinion the official releases from Precious Plastic should serve as the standard design, and these are the ones we should refer to in this Discord. And yes, I do agree that the V3 isn't perfect but just let us stick to it for now.

1:45 PM

the V3 isn't perfect but just let us stick to it for now. First of all @Deleted User in my opinion in this discord we should only refer to the official V3 and V4 releases when people ask for help. They might not be perfect, but these are the stardards we have now. It’s great that you made a lot of improvements and really good to share them. But they should always come with a disclaimer that its not the official design. Maybe see them as a different brand. In my opinion, these should belong in your own dedicated server for Plastichub designed machines. It just adds to confusion.

2

1:45 PM

Another thing which I’m kind of bothered about is that you kind of market your own designs here, and bash the published design with it. In my opinion the discord is not the place for that, at least maybe on. The V4 designs are well thought trough and tested by a team of engineers. Compromises have been made here and there so it might not be perfect for every builder, but you can’t please everyone. A choice for these machines was made to focus on larger troughput to help recycle in a bigger scale, for larger initiatives. Maybe less for the individuals. Improvements can always be made, but the way you communicate things here of the discord lacks a bit of respect. That’s no way to help the Precious Plastic concept forward. I the demand for improved V3 machines turns out to be big, then lets focus on that for the next version right?

1:45 PM

I do agree that it’s hard to communicate improvements to the V4 team. What we are missing here is a proper way to communicate ideas to the team. I would suggest something from lean manufacturing called Kaizens. Basically improving the standard by small incremental improvements.

1:45 PM

Maybe like something in the How to’s format on the website and turn it into a Kaizen form. Take a problem with the current design -> Describe the problem in detail -> Describe the cause for the problem -> Suggest a solution/improvement. The Precious Plastic team could then take the the form, evaluate it, test it and implement it in the current standard. It could happen that a suggested improvement doesn’t work or can’t be implemented for some reason. Then the team can give that feedback to the person who wrote the kaizen on that same form. This seems to me a more structured way to do it. Precious Plastic may need to hire people to run this, but that’s up to the team to evaluate.

Ok, in the mean time we use our updates, hard earned in production. Users are usually eager to get updates, we stick to that, especially looking at the forum/wiki traffic on it. Some of the machines even needed updates to make it work locally and certain contexts at all. We are happy to share this back, with all variants we found. I think it's fair to let users choose whats best for them self, isn't it ? The way it is advertises and widely understood, PP is an open source project and effort world wide - it's not bound to a specific group. Or why would you publish a blue print when you know there is a cheaper and better way doing it ?

1:52 PM

developing this machines is going really really fast, I think it would be too much waste, waiting for approval of anyone.

1:53 PM

the how to section won't work in many ways for us, I am afraid.

You need an entity to maintain the standard. If everyone just randomly puts out updates, there won't be a basis to go from

that's why you update the base, it can't hold us back because it's too slow.

That's why i suggested, publish that on your own brand.

once again, leave at least a choice to the user.

1:57 PM

yeah sure, we call all this now 'PP, powered by PlasticHub.ORG' - its mostly PP - just with updates.

I'm just telling you, a structured platform for improvement implementation isn't there yet. But just allow the PP team to figure it out. I think there is a basis for that to be made on the website

yeah, i am not pushing for anything, we just publish updates and if there is a benefit for the user, we mention it of course. it can decide over kilowatts, and $$ in the 4-5 digit range.

2:01 PM

there is no change needed btw. on the platform, we found a good way doing this now.

2:06 PM

it's like with bleeding edge software, there is no standard, everything got outdated by tomorrow, folks know when to jump on and off. (edited)

1

It's not benificial to precious plastics as a whole to do it like this. We need a standardised design to scale it up on the long term

2:14 PM

With software it's different with updates. That doesn't require large investments to purchase. This is hardware

2:15 PM

I suggested something from lean manufacturing, which is a proven way of doing things in industry. Lets just look into it

ok, we need progress and new yields - fast! take it or leave it, we keep moving, sorry dude, progress is what defines our success and well being and it turned out very well for us.

2:18 PM

evtl. we can work a library of designs some day, one machine for each application and context

2:18 PM

so the users can pick what's best for them

1

That's fine, just make sure to publish it under the Plastichub brand. The way you say it makes you sound more like a competitor then a precious plastic partner. Not really constructive in my opinion

btw. the current wiki/library's traffic just confirms that, folks are eager for different approaches, budgets, variants,...

2:21 PM

we share all and based all on PP, that would require us to change everything, for something which dosn't even worth thinking about.

2:22 PM

competitor to what actually ?

I said all I wanted to say.

yeah, thanks - still have to read all over again, having the machines dancing here on the side

2:33 PM

so for now from I understood, we have to say 'unofficial' updates for v3.0, or 'unofficial' v3.2 with support for official v3.1 ?

2:33 PM

because there is sort of semantic versioning we have to keep, ...

yeah, let us know soon how to deal with that, there is tons of updates coming. I could imagine to alter infrastructure (services, manuals, translations, folders,...) to a certain format, eg: PH_PP_Shredder_v3.1, reads as PlasticHub_PrecisousPlastic_v3.1 so it's clear, it's an update from PH for PP.

I guess just PH_Shredder_v3.x etc

ok, I hide the PP part but state it in the context, works for me.

2:54 PM

yet, on a daily base communication, it's then 'unofficial' update or, I guess

2:57 PM

challenging as well interesting task to figure a nice format, addressing part/components numbers in the PP universe

@Deleted User I reckon you're one of the most vocal and most passionate contributors to this discord, and you clearly know your stuff. It's brilliant that you want to push this project further forward and understandable that you might feel surprised by comments made about your contribution. I actually thought for a long time that you were part of the official development team! (Which again shows how much you understand these machines) I definitely don't want to frustrate your efforts, just like nobody else would want to frustrate the efforts of the developers. You're doing great work, and it's really impressive to see you accommodating criticism from the group.

1

thanks a lot , yeah, there seems to be a little confusion, I recon that too since a while. Folks are even linking to the library when they speak about PP. Let me find a work-around- not exactly easy, swimming in the same boat

1

PH update (rev.C) for 2.0/2.1 shredders: https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/shredder_v3.2 | we have the new knifes here for testing next week but seems a no brainer, should do well with less power for bottle lids and the like. Laser files, CAD, etc.. all there.

Did someone run the shredder (V2.1) with a small and slow motor (so slow that you have more than 300Nm)? Any examples, Videos, Photos, ...?

(edited)

8:33 PM

2.x wants it in the 60 - 80 RPM range. slower will jam it easily. here´s some math: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculations-required-for-shredder/ 4.1 wants it in the 20-30 RPM range, due to smaller cutting diameter though, so you could be fine with the ph-3.2 version I just posted (30% less cutting diameter than 2.x), and about 10 blades less with this motor

(edited)

Someone posted this torque list in the forum. We don't have a lot of rotational mass, do we? So I thought that only torque counts. It would be super slow at 15 rpm, but will cut well with the 350Nm (at 550Watt) i think

... Does anyone have an example, experience, ...? Thank you! (edited)

I can tell you only what I've seen , at lower speeds it starts jamming just but that might be of the inertia in the motor running at it's optimal speed, usually at 1500ish, at 1:30-40 (edited)

@Peter-Bas : I went through your post again in detail. I am afraid to say no, we mostly disagree; precious plastic is understood as global effort everywhere, worked out by thousands. There was no mentioning that it belongs to a few and only a few can publish updates or do innovation or dictate others what to use, to do or not to do, .... That would be fatal, there is also no need for a 'standard' or the like - we're far from needing one - but we do wanna create a sort of standard design building blocks which are applicable for many. However, we understand also PP like many others as idea, rough guide-line at best - and it's only a guide line for those who really need one, we can take it from there and do the best out of it. If you would bury progress behind under a central censorship, you could also bury the entire project because in no other project we could have see this vast landscape of innovation, new ideas, new processes as in PP. We're sure there might be more outcome for everybody if we establish better protocols and tools to give innovation more space. So for now we go on with what has been advertised : an open source plastic recycling movement, and it's a very free and skilled one ! We do however appreciate that there are more dedicated teams, willing to share their efforts. With decades in the open source movements, projects usually live from going and coming developers, there is often no ownership model per se. From our side as side, we do everything that updates are back and forward compatible, it's as said based all on PP - just with updates, no need to rebrand or such - that might be indeed very confusing. Btw, we are also happy that our designs are getting copied by other professionals; i think this speaks for itself as well. god speed, g (edited)

1

Okay, good luck

yeah - exactly - i think this refinement should fulfill a good v3.5 - which should be the end of it. dual axis comes with other problems as I've seen, couldn't get even MorrenTrading running well with a sieve - yet.

@Deleted User I was thinking something along the lines of what "recycle on the spot" guys did

@sharma.sagar94 that would be great indeed. As often we lack good and complete data for such designs and it takes ions to figure this all out, per design. I thought now is a good time to play with ideas but our area is cut off from suppliers; no idea when we could start with new projects, I assume there is now a blackout for months .. Anyway, when it comes to shredders, we are focusing now on a full automatic design which doesn't need any attention or intervention. This way we can guarantee our survival on the public market since those vending like machines are now in demand, yeah ! Quite a pile of work to get this smooth : hopper loaded sensors, automatic plunger system (currently abusing a 3d printer board to auto-home 4 leadscrews lifting the plunger), master controller for read outs and touchscreen, bla bla... - all available as PP addons, as always

(edited)

This may be a basic question but what CAD software do I need to use to open the CAD files in the starter-kit? I have tried a couple and can't seem to find what opens these things.

.stp-files you can open with any cad-software...

2

Anyone building the v4 extruder pro? How do we index this chat by machine build like the bazar?

1

@GarrettCadou : yep, we did. and no, we don't have channels per machine on this server anymore. (edited)

I have seen lots of talk about an upgraded V3 shredder, has it been done? Are there any cad files? We built the v3 and were very disappointed. We are getting a few people asking for them but we don't want to sell something that does not do the job.

@GarrettCadou For now, the old forum is probably still your best avenue to have a very dedicated thread. Or a separate Discord just for that topic. One of the benefits of Discord. It takes just minutes to start a new one. The drawback of both is that information tends to get scattered across many threads, making it cumbersome to follow a logical conversation / series of updates. Also: This is not the start of another pointless "debate" on which system is "best." We all know the pros and cons of each system by now. (edited)

@NoMorePlastic I am afraid those smaller shredders are always just a pita to work with. To make it really foolproof, for what ever object, you will need to integrate these components :

auto-reverse,
auto-shred (hopper loaded sensors)
auto-plunge
and a little more complicated : auto-reshred (suck flakes back into the hopper). this part is currently the last obstacle but idea is to dial in the the target flake size.
well, and a bunch of safety routines, overheat,... However, we do have updates for most problems, let me know which ones

(edited)

Nice Testrig! How does the Auto Plunger work? And how do you prevent a damage of the threaded rods over long time due shock? (edited)

haha, I was about to ask you that; for now it seems that standard M8 printer leadscrews do alright for bottles; at worst we switch to CNC leadscrews (greased). It indeed wants quite some pressure. How it works : we're still fiddling but the first tests however showed very promising results; it wants to be well synced with auto-reverse. there is a cat flap like door which closes after tossing the bottle, then the very same door acts as the plunger; was needed to preserve space. I make some videos when it's done - i guess this week or so. After plunging, it's homing - all GCode driven for now

As long as you dont have harder materials like PS or solid blocks of production waste: all cool. The problems will start when you use them - if you would run the setup for a longer time the ACME thread (even worse for ball-screws) would wear out pretty fast. So either you know the impact of those trow-backs of material and dampen it with springs (and solid oversized screws) or you go for hydraulic or pneumatic actuators, which are not affected by shocks (because they dampen the shocks with all their force). Thats why all the industry is using those actuators for these applications.

makes sense, great ! thanks a lot. what you mean by shocks ? it's just pushing stuff down.

2:45 PM

it seems that we need to push the bottles down a little while only til it starts shredding - which is pulling it down faster than the plunger (edited)

If you throw in bigger (solid) plastic parts it happens that the material is thrown back and creates shock towards the actuator. This shock will either result in wear of the acme-nuts or is dampened by the actuator (pneumatic/hydraulic). Maybe a spindle drive can work if you use really rigid spindles for the small shredder.

ah, alright. no, it's really light stuff for now only. we also have to stay in the budget but if it's finally approved, we will consider it - thanks a lot !

Any ideas how measure the size of flakes (auto-re-shred) ? All I am left with is OpenCV Object Recognition, via 2 different cameras.

I think that you don't get to the point where you have to shoot with canons to birds - in most cases a simple mesh under the shredder will do the job?

that's an option yeah but yet, I'd love to investigate this part

3:34 PM

because, if i can determine this, then it's easy going to blow it back into the hopper, til it's the size needed.

Lets talk after we got 500kg/hour

:-), well it's for schools and bars - small time stuff; but , no other intervention than bottle in & chips out is allowed in this case.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_atw3e0nIrg

Ivan Miranda

3D PRINTED CNC CUTS METAL (from scratch)

latest from robotdigg, are these the v4 screws? glad to see he is still ok.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzwdVtcL3jc

RobotDigg Shanghai

Screw and barrel for pellet printing, desktop extruder and injectio...

3

don't jump yet, that are all OUR screws !

2

https://blynk.io can run arduino, pi, and a number of other modules via a smartphone app. could be an interesting route for controlling PP machines (edited)

Blynk

Join the most popular IoT platform to connect your devices to the cloud, design apps to control them, and manage your deployed products at scale

1

Re: Ivan Miranda's CNC https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/598887270636060694/689159821727236103 What metal type and hardness can one expect to be able to cut with that? (I watched it a few days ago, I think he specified the maximum thickness somewhere in the video.) (edited)

the thickness usually only depends on the machine

However I can only recommend once this thing is running to make yourself proper aluminium parts for the machine, before it dissasembles itself^^

9:35 AM

And please, use a solid plate for the x-Axis instead of hollow profiles.

9:36 AM

However a much better approach than the MPCNC

I used to build an Openbuilds mahchine. a desktop CNC machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_atw3e0nIrg

@Titankore.ai

Ivan Miranda

3D PRINTED CNC CUTS METAL (from scratch)

10:09 AM

this one.

10:10 AM

no quite recommanded

10:10 AM

for hobby is ok. for product, i choose industrial solution.

10:13 AM

i just disassembleed the machine 3 month later.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hUcQuxwFbw

RobotDigg Shanghai

Face Mask Making Machine is Money Printer

seems there is a high demand for the 'nose clip' for face masks. Its a thin extrusion with 2 pieces of wire inside.

'Face Mask Making Machine is Money Printer' : I guess in a better world they'd seize the masks/machines and put him on therapy for tasteless business prospects (edited)

i think he's joking

hi can anyone tell me more about motor specifications for the shredder?

It seems most of the World gets their masks from China. Meaning the supply chain has been cut at the source. Amazing how governments "think ahead", isn't it? It makes conspiracy theories understandable, because after some time, it's hard to believe people can be so stupid, without actually trying to be.

I'm given to understand this is the motor FAQ: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/almost-definitive-guide-on-motors-wip/

4:27 PM

@Fritz @easymoulds @ShrednMelt_Xu So, no DIY CNC option for cutting shredder parts? That seems counter-intuitive, but I'm not a "technical guy."

@Frederik C (ZA) for hobby. you can use that to cut parts only in Aluminum.

4:30 PM

but, Aluminum is soft metal

4:30 PM

it wont last long . (edited)

Is a waterjet cutter more expensive or less expensive than a laser cutter?

it depens.

4:33 PM

compare to waterjet, outcome of laser cutter is better.

4:34 PM

laser cut is more expensive

What about drill-press bits to drill hard steel? And making holes along the cutting edge, then grinding it down to size?

oh. that will take a lot of work. you can imagine how long it will take to make just a pice of blade.

4:40 PM

truely handmade piece.

Someone posted about that method months ago. I can't find it anymore. I was wondering if the money saved is worth the time, for someone starting on a shoestring budget.

2

1

time is money. i wont waste my money.

1

4:46 PM

you know, actually i took visit to a mask factory yesterday.

4:47 PM

do you know how much it will take to make a the production line ? make a guess

4:47 PM

@Frederik C (ZA)

Anything I say will be ridiculous. I have no experience in manufacturing.

come on, just guess. in your opinion.

4:50 PM

I really can't estimate.

Also, we should move to #just-chatting. (edited)

1

Hi every one. rigth now im building the shredder and im about to lasercut all the steel parts. But i only have standard steel (not stainless). Does anyone knows the consequences of this in the machine functioning?

@NAGA Another issue is that i got a 2.2kV motor geared down to 104rpm. Anyone knows if at this rotation speed the torque is enough to shred plastic without problems?

@davehakkens boss can u help me out please?

You don't need stainless for it if you not operate very close to the seaside and if you have a closed workshop

Don't use water while shredding.

7:56 PM

If the speed is too high you can end up with generating too much heat, so you have to pause the process. Also you will have less torque = it will jam faster

7:57 PM

If you have/ can get a VFD you can reduce the speed to whatever works for you - but by reducing you will loose torque again.

7:57 PM

@NAGA

@Fritz @easymoulds Thank you very much!!

hey guys, is a screw tip necessary for the pro extrusion machine? what is its purpose? thanks

@Deleted User what else would you use instead?^^

almighty AndyN on fire again, here's your injection addon : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCEvjRdkjrU&ab_channel=AndysMachines, looks like this could be applied to v3/v4

AndysMachines

Building a better automatic injection moulder (DIY) -part 1

11:05 PM

@Fritz @easymoulds : there are different screw tips as far I understood - was wondering about this too - we added grooves for mixing for now

aahhhh he talks about the extrusion screw? I thought about the extrusion barrel screw-connector

11:06 PM

The clamping looks pretty cool, just nooo clue why he uses hollow tubesteel....

yeah, me too, possible shop left overs but fuck it, as long it works :-) screw tips, here some common types : https://www.google.com/search?q=extrusion+screw+tips&sxsrf=ALeKk03t3ZMSeN8zxGqmRhsGECEdWsFQBw:1584482769299&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=RdR2IcuB7GYVEM%253A%252CP_cgG0kHwVyWtM%252C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kRokVk8a6pJwDCU2IYq2cXaTJUzgQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjqnfekwqLoAhVmBGMBHfFmAQEQ9QEwAHoECAoQGw#imgrc=RdR2IcuB7GYVEM:

i believe some of them function like a valve, closing during the injection phase, sliding to open during the priming phase. Different shapes are also deigned for different types of plastic (edited)

Hello guys

6:50 AM

Wonder if you can help me with electronics, how to start learning!? :c

how to start learning!? :c

Ongoing question for many of us. Stick around.

Big topic, what you want to learn about it? The main question is also if you want to learn everything about a category or more like "get the machine running" - for latter one you can just start following the manual until you get stucked and come back.

@Ianko : the Arduino starter kits are great in many ways (https://store.arduino.cc/genuino-starter-kit). For general electrics (power circuits), Youtube is your friend. Looks like the virus may create an army of talents, building revolutionary machines for micro manufacturing from home

9:01 AM

@Fritz @easymoulds I have no idea

Can't find the use of a screw tip on Google (I have no experience in building machines but I am willing to learn

)

9:05 AM

@Deleted User indeed, the screw tip isn't listed in the documentation; but you can make one on the lathe & mill. we used chromoly for now but I am afraid it's wearing out in no time since the tip section is the most violent and abrasive one (heat-treat should do, for a while).

9:07 AM

@Deleted User Thanks! Do you know what the function is of a screw tip?

9:10 AM

I guess it's for liquifying/ mixing, makes sense looking at the insane speeds

9:11 AM

Oké thanks man!

@Deleted User : let us know how your build goes, a few parts were only available in some countries and so we had to find an alternative design which turned out also more easy, cheap and powerful

@Deleted User We are planning to build a recycling center in Gambia during the months of july and august, by now we are doing some preparations, but because of the lack of money and technology we are trying to replace some components

right, well here is the 'mostly lathe only' version, you can get away with 2 taper bearings and a thrust bearing : https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=159 | CAD files, etc.. all incl. about the lathe: you'll need a very good 3 jaw chuck chuck, or adjustable 4 jaw chuck. keyways need a mill but you could do it with an angle grinder too

(edited)

10:59 AM

thanks a lot!

I'll start building the pro shredder, or at least I'll start trying to do so haha

does anyone have a price breakdown on what an extruder would cost that is large enough to make plastic 2x4s? preferably a kit or prebuilt. I dont have tools to custom make one. I scrap and recyclable ewaste and all the plastic is getting burnt for heat or thrown away so i want to make 2x4s so i can make things like park benches or furniture with it.

2

Hey guys, where can I get the file with the molds for the Hardox 400 pieces for the Shredder Pro

@Ianko the V4 Download Kit has DXF's and laser files for cutting in "\PreciousPlastics\v4-precious-plastic-kit\precious-plastic-kit\3. Build\5. Shredder Pro\Shredder Pro Files" is that what you might be looking for? (edited)

1

@CitSciWorkshop Thanks for the info, I'm new in this community so I really appreciate

5:57 PM

Greetings from Chile by the way

4

1

@Ianko happy to help!

@Deleted User The screw tip is used to streamline the flow to the nozzle at the moment. We designed the screw to have a flat face at the end with a threaded hole. This way it is prepared for any add-ons like shut of valves for injection molding or mixing elements for extrusion.

1

@Peter-Bas : where to get it ? it's missing in the BOM btw.

6:59 PM

there are also other parts, only available in certain countries btw. ..

The screw tip should be there. Other add-ons are not on there yet. The screw design just is prepared for it

yeah, just asking in case others ask again, latest version https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14AzvGXF-KGlYrc79eihJhmff0n_5hrI9Y-tWOBZUC9M/edit#gid=346553992 , not there. i will leave a note in the library that this can be machined retaliative easy for now

Extruder BOM

BOM Netherland Type,Item,Qty.,URL (Europe),Price,Part/Assembly Number,Notes Beams and Sheets,Hexagon stock Ø41 mm S235JR,0.1 m,https://www.hattemleeuw.nl/,€ 75.15,EXTPRO-V1 1100.01, EXTPRO-V1 1140.03,Ordered per 3 meter Beams and Sheets,Seamless tube stock Ø40 x 5 mm, DIN 239...

I can't find the Pro Shredder Files, I need the molds for the laser cut :C anybody can send me the link? thanks

@Ianko : it's all in the starterkit : https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-machine/tree/master/3.%20Build%20the%20machines/5.%20Shredder%20Pro/Shredder-Pro-Files (here the zip : https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-machine/archive/master.zip)

1

7:42 PM

but yeah, kinda hard to find those files indeed

1

@Deleted User thanks!

7:52 PM

Hey and there's anything like a main guide for understanding all the files that are in this link and how to use them?

not yet, but anything in ./CAD is for SolidWorks 2019+ / Fusion and ./laser is for, well the laser guy (edited)

haha the laser guy, perfect

7:55 PM

thanks again

Hey guys, how can I download the laser cut files from github? I can't find the option

@Ianko Download the hole kit

4:08 PM

Thanks man!

not very sexy yet but getting there, plunger success rate t 99.9%

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iijNF1jjTY&feature=youtu.be

Plastic Hub

Asterix proto

4

that looks really cool, nice progress try now F3000 for the gcode of the plunger

1

@Deleted User wow, amazing!

3:48 PM

maybe i will use linear actuator

3:51 PM

im still working on shredder. trying to make a XL V4

3:51 PM

3:52 PM

the size of cutting chamber will be 256mm*500mm

3:52 PM

shredder pro V4 XL . haha

Oh cool! Is this the original version or redone? Can I somehow get or download? What version of Solidworks?

@ShrednMelt_Xu I find it amazing mate, you have the files for your XL version? I'm looking forward building a bigger version of the Pro Shredder !

@Ianko @Ianko still working on it. i will release files when i finish it.

Hi, concerning the compression oven can anybody tell what four band heaters 35x45 mm are doing in the BOM? The youtube video of how to build the oven doesn't show Dave using band heaters. The blueprints don't do so either.

@Florian_All_We_Shape maybe they mean this one?

10:40 AM

10:42 AM

bended heater? i guess....

10:42 AM

i just check the model. yeah. .....very confusing.

Hey guys who do CNC stuff.. would it be possible to drill a hole into a mould, then use that hole like a tube to pump hot fluid or gas? I was thinking it might be possible to make a simple mould that you can pour plastic directly into, then pump hot fluid around it in the mould to melt the plastic to the mould shape

@eric_OZ It would be possible, but not very time efficient -> you could also just put a compression mould into an oven?

6:13 PM

Which still takes extra long time... So there should be a specific need over an injection machine for this application i think.

@Florian_All_We_Shape maybe they mean this one?

@ShrednMelt_Xu Could be possible, but I noticed, that the electronics in the BOM is the same as for the injection machine. Probably it's just a mistake.

2:13 PM

I guess, I'll have to look at how I connect the power supply when I know the type of oven I use.

Hi! How can i download draw of extruder base version, not pro-version?

Download the hole kit: https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/releases/tag/V4.1

Is it base version?

As i know, the basic extruder has no starterkit, so you can find the build files in the hole kit.

2

8:45 PM

Or take this;)

4._Extrusion.zip

6.5 MB

Thank you wery much!!!

@sharma.sagar94 do you have the CAD file of this model

@richard997 : you can try contacting the author to get the files (good luck) : https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=companies.view&company_id=58

@richard997 @Deleted User yeah those are not my files, and I don't have them

@sharma.sagar94 so where did you get this figure?

From the bazar

11:12 AM

@richard997 : you can try contacting the author to get the files (good luck) : https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=companies.view&company_id=58

@Deleted User Follow this link

All vendors :: recycle on the spot / studio.rawparadise

A few tweaks needed but I think this approach will work for V3 style injectors, this is a mould for a pulley wheel

3

3:19 PM

3:20 PM

3:25 PM

I don't have an injector to test it with so if anyone wants to beta test this get in touch

3:27 PM

The pulley is for 8mm diameter rope/cable and uses a standard 6000 bearing with 10mm axle bolt

Hi, Guys.. I am Building the Shredder pro, can somebody recommend me a laser cutt service in the US so I can send the files for the blades...? thanks in advance..

@CiD maybe someone in #🍔north-america will help you?

I built shredder v3.1 from aisi 304. As in blueprints. What do you think about building shredding block from steel marked 66Mn4 (66G or Ck67 or 65 Mn)?

Hey guys, just made an easy electric diagram for shredder

PLAN_CABLAGE_BROYEUR_BON.pdf

353.73 KB

1

4:20 PM

2

which channel I can find out about 3d printing? I would like to pivot our plastic recycling to making ventilators.

@alistar : i've sent you an invite, PP Eindhoven doesn't want to know about 3d print so we're doing in the exile

(edited)

7:24 PM

@Landry : source files are always welcome, easy to translate

Good news for v3 & v4 users : 1. auto-plunge works flawless, I kept throwing hundreds of bottles by now at it : will be part of the shredder v3.2 upgrade package - v4 compatible 2. auto-reverse works flawless in top of it, I tried from hard stuff and of course 2 bottles at it : will be part of the shredder v3.2 upgrade package - v4 compatible 3. the v3.2 firmware comes also with jam detection for extruders, can be activated in a config file : shredder or extrusion, or combo 4. we're testing right now an altered version of 2.1, with around 33% less cutting circumference, lowering as said energy waste by 40%, will be part of the shredder v3.2 upgrade package 5. advance extrusion controller (v3/4) postponed to May but with the new framework it's a piece of cake 6. smaller version of the v4 sheet in progress, for v4 sheetpress however we're ditching the PIDs for Arduino controlled variants in order to have energy saving for smaller sheets (heats only the 'inner' zone) 7. we're building this days the v4 dual sheet press: makes 1.2m x 2.4m sheets as often requested; looks like we have to find a solution to activate cartridge heaters in a controlled fashion to stay below 32 amps, input is more than welcome god speed for the ultimate micro manufacturing PP station g (edited)

8:45 PM

v3.2 means v3.2 unofficial of course :-))

1

@Timberstar , how cool : https://dgiluz.wordpress.com/2020/03/23/its-working/

dgiluz

It’s working!

500 patients in northern Italian hospitals are receiving right now ventilators, produced by hacked scuba gear that was shipped by Decathlon! This is incredibly cool. Big hugs to Isinnova and their …

5

I'd appreciate some feedback on the idea to build a v4 shredder with a single phase motor initially, then upgrade to three phase when I move the operation from my home shop to a commercial warehouse.

Any tips or hints on how to make an extrusion screw for v4 pro? At least what kind of machine it requires so I can find a machine shop that has the right capabilities. My usual machine shop cannot make it, but can do v3 upgraded screw.

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug : just buy one on robodigg (~100$ + 40$ import), otherwise you can do it on the lathe but it's insane job for 2-3 days : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPhJLgrPAI. you also need to send them for hardening which can add another 200$

Plastic Hub

PP Extrusion Screw

making the v4 screw should be btw. easier since there is more root material (less shatter & bending), non-the-less, this is going to be quite a challenge even for pro machinists, a lot of things can go wrong.

Thanks @Deleted User , i think even with shipping fees and customs fees it's still cheaper than having it fabricated here.

ah, i see where Ciledug is now; yeah - that might be cheaper to go there to a screw manufacturer just. Robodigg is quite close to you btw. Anyways, make sure you get it heat treated and plated otherwise your screw will wear out in no time. 2-3 days at the lathe - doing this sort of job would cost the company about 2-3000$ here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GridDLZ56yQ (edited)

Glycon Corp.

Feed Screw Manufacturer Design Machining Rebuilding USA | Glycon Co...

9:53 AM

because when it comes to friction between plastic & steel, metal will always loose

@Abe I have plan for build a v4 shredder with a single phase motor. the my supplier told me that. right now . they can provide 4KW single phase motor. but the output power is just like 3kw in three phase.

10:57 AM

less efficient

10:59 AM

and the amperage of single phase motor is very high compare to three phase motor. around 26A

11:02 AM

maybe i will get one to test in the future.

right now im buillding my shredder pro V4 XL. Beautiful,but DANGEROUS !

11:10 AM

11:11 AM

5

@Deleted User Thanks for the invite.

.

HI, what is the gap between shreader screen and the blands, V2 and V4. I dont have CAD to open the files and the 2D drawings dont indicate. Im modifiying and existing machine. Thanks (edited)

7:53 PM

I've just acquired this actuator. Stroke is 600mm. Has anyone experimented with these for an injection machine? It's pretty powerful but I think it might be a bit slow..?

@Timberstar good idea. I use these in my trade as liniar gate actuators. When installed on a gate there is a triangle shape that they mount in. The forces in this configuration is quite large ie you can not use G clamps to hold it togeather (onto the gate). I think you might get good result from this.

1

not quite sure I've got this right but the standard actuators are in the 330lbs range, which is around 27.5 ft-lb which is around 35 nm. one 1 nm is around holding an apple with a straightened arm. on the by now standard abor injection -single gear / mod-3/ 22 teeth, we have a transmission of around 1:60, depending on the handle length -we use average of 60 cm which should be around 60 Nm which is quite alright for most cases :-). as long you keep bottle necks like nozzle under control and plastic well melt you should be fine

(edited)

@Deleted User you mean you think it might be possible directly in-line, not with a lever?

be prepared for the worst

good idea btw. !

11:54 PM

could work directly, yeah, depends on mold, plunger clearance, ...

Will be great if it works as they are not very expensive, but i think it might be too slow, videos i have seen of the v3 injector in use , people seem to pull that lever down as fast as possible

in some cases slow is fine too

AndyN worked out a nice mechanism increase to forces with a car jack like link system (edited)

11:58 PM

dunno how fast those actuators are actually, just pump volts at it

its 24v so im waiting for a second battery to charge before i can test it

TPU for instance wanted it rather slow - helped to eliminate air voids a lot. we do more testing on masks soon. it's like honey, it literally spills in the mold by self.

ive been trying to make a mask mould but Squalidworks is not liking it

there are at least 2 masks or more these days

this one is actually really well designed and ready to make into a mould: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4227473

Respirator by Budash

I hope this helps everyone

12:08 AM

but my computer is to old and slow to handle the poly count

how you want to make the mold? damn, remind me to send you a new computer after this crap

i was thinking either a 3d printed mould or a resin mould made from a 3d print

and then aluminium cast came up here recently, can be hand polished

12:12 AM

more beer cans man!

12:13 AM

here we get fined for picking beer only, i show them my PP badge next time

yea although its quite a bit more of a job

12:13 AM

Ha!

yeah, alu casting takes a while; apart from the fumes i enjoyed it everytime. with some luck you could ball mill finish it on a mpcnc apearently

Slightly different but related topic, my brother is working with hight temperature Silicon to make moulds and we had the idea of making the 'barrel' as part of the mould by casting the 'plunger' in the silicone too

100+

when the silicone mould has gone hard, cut open the bottom part to remove the part pattern, and pull the plunger out leaving a cylindrical void. Fill it with plastic flakes; put the whole thing in the oven, when it's melted, remove from oven and plunge

yeah, silicone keeps coming up here a lot too

My brother says its great

12:21 AM

He is making underwater camera parts from bottle tops for the BBC (edited)

you don't want heat to silicon - as far i understood you want to squeeze it out in water, lay it out in a press mold and wait just

12:22 AM

ok, 2 ideas more though

no I mean heat in the oven to melt plastic in it

ah, my bad , ash on my head

the idea is to be able to do something like injection without an injection machine

100+

i will get him to take photos

right, let me pick up some shots to get over it

Hi i am pretty new on this platform and dont know if this is the right forum but please hear me out. We , foundation, are trying to build the machines in Mali, Bamako but we cannot find people to do it. Importing would be expensive but i think that we dont need people with University degree. Can you let me know what skills you need to build these machines please?

@JDJ : well, tells us about your resources, we can help from there.

8:54 PM

1. you have basic power tools, welder, lathe, ... ?

No we dont but we are looking for someone who has. Until now i did not know what we need so what you wrote is already helpful

yeah, more ore less it's like in the videos, more is better.

so someone who is a welder would be a good start to ask?

basically, but someone who has a lathe and/or mill has also a welder, you need both

8:57 PM

yes i understand

how about laser ?

to cut the iron

9:00 PM

we probably have to look for a professional place to have a laser

yes, shredder parts are done with laser but there are also ways without = drill press & anglegrinder & dremel & file

this is useful info.

9:03 PM

In Kenya did you build it locally or had it made somewhere else?

The pilot workspace in Kenya was before V3, I think. You'll have to ask someone who was on that team.

@Frederik C (ZA) Ok thanks

v4 DIY screw tip: should be violent enough -at least in theory - to get better consistency at high speeds for v3 extruder. needs mill and lathe, but you could do it also with less. i made the radial grooves a little more random with the ball mill, adding a little more turbulence :-) 4 hours, another 4 hours to make it more shiny though

1

@JDJ machines in Kenya: the more tricky parts were brought from NL (like the shredder lasercut parts, extrusion screw etc.) but oven, frames, motors, etc. were sourced and assembled locally.

well, I have all the parts. it just so happens that the hardware I was shipped, was different in spec to the hardware I was testing with. I can't believe this is already a month long project =3= but all my tests thus far seem to hint at success. will be testing my new heating system before I can finish the chassis. I gotta say, though, it's really hard to tap pipes without a clamp. there's a reason most designs are exterior threaded, too. (less cleaning after use/easier to thread with a die, dies seem less likely to break/easier to get started.) (edited)

for folks who don't have access to larger lathes taking 45mm stock nor have follow rest thread cutting, etc... goes quite simple, 2 hours or so.

4:02 PM

the screw tip however shouldn't be more than 1 cm away from the last heat-band

I have a few queries regarding sheet press: 1) Has anyone used any other heater element shapes & sizes ? 2) Why does the grid go diagonal ? 3) Is the 10mm press plate thickness necessary as a heat buffer for even temperature ? 4) Would electric linear actuators work in place of lifting jack ?

@Knight of hearts : 1. not yet but we were about to test others 2. structure, the lower table is around 80 KG 3. looks like, yes 4. I don´t think so, we end up with a hydraulic system requiring a 3Kw motor for the pump, and around 35 Liter deposite tank, cost alone 1600 Euro here - but that´s a for a dual sheetpress (edited)

Thanks very much Catalonia, also do you know why heaters are staggered between top & bottom plates ? Surely you need complete & even heating both sides ?

ahm, not sure I understood but yup, you have to heat from both sides : https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2b6df80/g/shares/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd96830189e0500fec9e9 (right click hide parts)

@Knight of hearts I was actually considering using heating cartridges for my own design, though I'm not sure they'd be useful for an area that big. maybe they make flexible mats? if there are two mats that can be used, it could be simple to build the entire thing out of a few shits and bars of metal (edited)

Hi community, is it possible to put a 5HP motor with 920 rpm direct on a PP V3 shredder? Or do I need a reduction? Anyone with experience?

10:16 AM

I'm scared to break my shredder box :p

@LaurensDV i think that will be very dangrous. too fast to handle .

Has anyone tried doing the nozzle connection by drilling and tapping a flat sheet and then welding to the end of the pipe?

@LaurensDV i think that will be very dangrous. too fast to handle .

@ShrednMelt_Xu Indeed, but industrial shredders are very fast so I was thinking there was a chance :p

@LaurensDV depends on what kind of shredder you use. they only use fast speed in a closed enviroment.

@ShrednMelt_Xu yeah i've seen one, they're very good and well protected

10:39 AM

Thx fr your advice! I'll look into a gearbox

@LaurensDV hi, I am a gearbox distributor...let me know motor and I can give you suggestions.

1

Hi, anyone has a working copy of Autodesk 2018, 2019 ? And if so, could you upload this here https://github.com/plastic-hub/pp-v4/tree/master/v3/shredder/imperial as step files ?

@David Gramlin : so you're saying that the shaft moves away from the stationary knifes, or in which direction ? there are solutions either way.

@Deleted User The blades move toward the stationary knives. And the blades rub the sides of the machine.

@David Gramlin can you take video or image to show the problem? maybe i can help

@ShrednMelt_Xu I'll be at my shop in 2.5 hours. Then I'll post a video.

Making thermocouple mounts for extruder/injector. Takes 2 hours for 5; the sensor penetrates the barrel by 50% for better readings.

2

1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiuoQ05Pwv4&feature=youtu.be

Daniel Silva

¡Chilenos crean mascarilla "anti" coronavirus"!

8:41 PM

Chilean mask 3D printed

8:41 PM

Copper based also

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland , @Timberstar : what you'd do different ? there are only overpriced clips on the EU market, those are also more fragile and won't contain the heat that well. The other benefit is that the user can move them around to experiment

(edited)

11:06 AM

Besides, it seems to be a pleasant metal work entry exercise

@Deleted User just meant I was looking for it!

right, btw. still can send you parts if you need anything ...

let me go through my crazy bench... slowly adding rollers and tension

11:43 AM

thanks!

@Deleted User https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51iBR0ZaB0L._SY450_.jpg ?

@Timberstar yeah, but no

once you have to weld a nut on that (imperial) and pull a little on the cables a few times ..., I feel way better with a more solid clip and easy to install and move (edited)

12:42 PM

btw, those still cost 4E here

1

@Deleted User https://www.amazon.co.uk/KOSO-Exhaust-Temperature-Sensor-21-38/dp/B07J5T3G28 still flimsy i know but ready made for £7

12:55 PM

(edited)

yeah, i am sure there are a few hundred more ways doing this, yet, I love sticking to PP originating ideas, get sh** done @ home-shop

I am a little stubborn about this but I really enjoy it this way

12:57 PM

students and workers here too (edited)

1:00 PM

btw. we use the inkbird bundle, pretty solid stuff, nice tc wire, everything cool, except I need to hack it now for setting temp. via remote. couldn't find good din rail variants with modbus yet

good i was checking those out, I think you mentioned them before.. I was thinking maybe to start buying stuff but now all this chaos... gonna wait a while

1:04 PM

I have a barrel and plunger with a really good fit

1:05 PM

the barrel is already closed at one end so I think maybe I can just drill and tap for 1/2" BSP

Hi everyone, i'm new to this channel and i've seen a lot of energy in this community. I'm currently trying to build a pro-plastic shredder prototype and i wanted a feedback on the motor and the electronic part. I have to use a 1,5 kW, 220V three-phase motor , with max torque 699 Nm at 19rpm. I have seen in the website that the suggested power is 3kW, so do you think i'll have problems? Thank you

Getting together a cooling system for the thin-gauge extrusion. It is made with underfloor heating manifold and my old Peugeot 206 radiator. Still missing some adapters but looks like the fun is soon to begin!

1

More of a forum question/article : we have to drill 500 (4 sheetpress) M12 holes into the sheetpress aluminium cartridge heater blocks. any ideas ? that´s just the hole for the cartridge heater (8cm deep or so) there are 2 holes more per block for the mount screws but doesnt seem a good idea making holes into the press plates, was wondering to slightly TIG weld them in place just (edited)

9:02 PM

for now, since my CNC mill is more for high speeds and my mill is to weak, I was wondering to hack the drill press just using a NEMA 34 on the quill and some Arduino magic
the other option is to make a special setup on the lathe doing basically the same thing, just horizontal

(edited)

how thick are the plates?

the press plates are 10mm - i don't want to drill them for some reasons as evtl. vacuum table. the blocks to be drilled : 25mm x 50mm x 100mm or so. drilling alu above 10mm diameter needs really quite some power, already placed a 3kw motor now on the drill press. to get on 12 mm you need at least 3 passes : 6mm, then 10 mm, then 12mm

9:11 PM

and it want's to be actually a really good fit

9:12 PM

here the model, https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2b6df80/g/shares/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd96830189e0500fec9e9 (v4.0)

9:13 PM

i guess i mod the CNC mill for drilling just

to get a good contact you could use heatsink paste in the hole, then it wouldn't need to be a super tight fit

there is about 0.15 clearance total with a good standard drill, which is a lot, even though it's in a good vise. i guess i have to make a custom drill too.

maybe that hole can be done on the lathe? (edited)

9:29 PM

go smaller then bore it out

yeah, modding the CNC was really tempting but putting a 30KG motor on the gantry will break our house though. on the lathe i still have Nema34 mounts for the feed, just have to build up a drill on the tool post, the idea is to make this mostly automatic otherwise somebody will have to drill for 10 f$%·$%$5 days

nah put the drill bit in the tailstock. its only 1 hole right down the middle

mh, might be right, with a standard drill rather not but will try. geez, that´s getting really sporty. you can´t just drill 12 mm through alu on a lathe, there is no garantuee it keeps straight, besides, i guess my lathe is to weak for that too, even though it´s a bigger one

9:37 PM

okeey, thanks mate, will try a few things

9:38 PM

possibly a classical case of building the machine around the job, in 2 weeks

yea needs to be a centering drill bit, and independent 4 jaw chuck obviously.. it should stay pretty straight if it's dead centre as that's the least resistance

ye, will punch them good before just

it actually needs also lots of pecking to get the lub in btw. - well, and the chips out (edited)

nahh just hit it dry its only ally

that will jam the lathe and makes shitty holes for sure

9:53 PM

unless I EDM the drill for lub

once you are in deep enough you can switch to an end mill the same size

now we went from sporty to marathon (edited)

9:55 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NX7cAyK9rI

Dustin Masters

tailstock drilling tip

we all have to loose some kilos here anyway, cheers, will try a few things

would definitely be less work to do it with the power feed, worth making a block since it's so many https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTLcmESue5s

smallcnclathes

Drill 32mm using power feed in my centre lathe

mh, that gives me hope for the custom drill, boring bar is out given the length and diameter, those bend too easily

i still don't know how the 5038 al will behave at all .. thanks mate (edited)

also one quesion about the support grid which is below the plate, it's set at 45 degrees to the frame... is that neccessary? it makes a lot of extra work

great, i think i mod this with a limit switch as i used for making screws, now i get it

if it was square to the frame all the pieces could be the same

45 degc offset usually induces less shatter

i dont think it' gonna make a significant difference

11:14 PM

and it would be more even at the edges

it does, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GvNDcoYmEk&ab_channel=JoePieczynski (explains it at some point, can't recall what it was but made sense)

11:15 PM

anyway, time to sleep and dream about this huge mess of chips

that's enough alu to make some molds on the bbq (edited)

i think im talking about a different thing

mh

the frame of the base of the sheet press

11:17 PM

the squares where the heaters are mounted

11:20 PM

mh, not sure what you mean - you need 45 to get enough structure for the jack being in the center, everything else is based upon, incl. laser cut holes for wiring

11:21 PM

ah, no, - it's need this way, because of the jack in the center

11:21 PM

our diagonal plates are 1.70m long, a beast

so shorter span is better no?

11:23 PM

at 45 deg the strongest parts are a the corners and the middle is on the longest span

seems like a lot of pain for little gain

mh, let me check tom

11:26 PM

to me it makes sense, for now

11:29 PM

nah, you can't rotate this around since it's laser cut sheets, i am already p** they came out with too much play.

speaking of the press plates and structure, looks like i have to find a way to make the flat via set screws, the press plates are 1,30 x 1.30 (basically XL version). however, those are not flat, of course. i assume after welding all together, they might be off by 1 mm. i was wondering hot to get it really flat via set screws and laser but not quite sure it worth it; 1.30m doesn't sound much but it's a lot once you have this square in front of you. here are some methods I found : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/sheetpress-cell/tools/flatness

11:44 PM

laser gauges for flatness are insane expensive, I could borrow one just too

11:45 PM

I love the floor string walker too

Great idea to use set screws, i think it will be enough just on the corners and middles, and just use a straight edge to check from point to point, corner to corner

1.30 m straight edge ? i paid 300 bucks for 40 cm already

man a spirit level is gonna be straight enough

mh, may be - i was hoping for some extra fun

well you can always use micrometer guages between the plates later when it's set up

and a kuka robot which takes the measurements

to do it really nicely with a spirit level you can set it on the plate on 3 small strips of paper, one each end and one in the middle. then adjust until the middle one can move with just a little resistance

nice, that should do, great mate

11:57 PM

damn, i already bought the fog blaster and the laser

11:58 PM

good for the party sheetpress v4.1 inauguration party though

you can neever have too many lasers

yeah, tell that my cats

was wondering to make one my self; those cat lasers are too stupid for my cats and so I am doing it manually mostly

no, there is more problems this way, there are sheets in place for the wool, and the jack comes in with high pressure at the center (hopefully)

12:17 AM

anyway, there seems to be enough head room for optimizations

12:20 AM

integrating the cooling press seems very tempting

12:26 AM

here are 2 overview pdfs : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/sheetpress-cell/laser

12:26 AM

for 1.30m x 1.30m (edited)

1

12:30 AM

funny thing to build with 2 people only; we will have to come up with quite some ideas to get all in place.

yea it's gonna be heavy to get it out too!

yeah, 'send it just' is getting on a whole new level, luckily he 'picks' it up here

12:34 AM

damn, i gonna build a shed for it in front of the garage, great

mh, something tells me to seriously check the heat expansion of 5038 and the cartridge heaters

2:04 AM

still playing around with that grid thing

it's a late for that, even in the UK

bloody ISO fit and limits keeps biting back in here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvVMs2BZdeU

Tabletop Machine Shop

Limits and Fits: The ISO System

i bet the expansion is pretty much exactly the 0.15 you already measured

ye, gonna heat up some test blocks just, worst case is to take a 11.7 - 11.9 drilled block and heat fit the thing just (edited)

it's a late for that, even in the UK

2:10 AM

I'm on Corona time now, i barely even know what day it is

good, all i wanted to hear now

1

so do you plan to use a separate tray on top of the plate? or is the plastic directly on the plate?

2:28 AM

because if you have a separate tray it doesnt matter about the holes

2:28 AM

also easier for continuous production

there are 2mm stainless sheets among all, high grade

2:29 AM

i don't want the holes also for distortions

and that stainless sheet comes out with the plastic?

2:29 AM

like a cookie tray

dunno the cookie tray, good question, the holes however are insane work

2:30 AM

v4 vids seem to use stainless sheets

i know...I' ve been trying to think of other ways but it really needs a bolted connection for really positive contact (edited)

2:31 AM

I thought maybe heat conductive epoxy

2:32 AM

but you need to be able to take it out

technically after cooling it should get off by self, no ?

which?

the plastic, getting of the stainless sheets

2:34 AM

the TIG weld will be superior, i am not worried

2:34 AM

i have a hard time to make holes into a 220E 5038 plate

2:35 AM

imagine the f** doesnt work good enough,...

yes i imagine, i was just thinking you can have 2 stainless sheets, one you can prep while the other one is cooking, also you can take it out while it's still hot if you want to use it on a form

no idea, dude, i am buried under details ...

the sheet with the holes is stainless? ooof

i guess i have to keep testing for a week or so, the customer sends 100kg in plastic, incl. the additives to prevent fire

2:39 AM

no, 4.0 is using holes on the pressplate. the sheets are between the pressplate and the plastic

2:39 AM

i want no hole anywhere

yea

good nite, what a ride, thanks man!!!

night dude

Question. I’m getting A pro to build the injection machine and he wants to build the frame in Stainless steel and then he asks me: can the barrel be built with Iron or regular steel. Anyone know???

@Cookieman regular steel yes, iron no

Not stainless steel?

1:06 PM

@Timberstar not stainless steel?

stainless is fine yes

1:06 PM

just not cast iron pipes

1:07 PM

because they can't be welded

Hehe what is cast iron pipes?

here in the uk they were used in the past, don't see them much any more.

1:12 PM

in the states what they call 'black iron' pipes i think are actually steel

1:14 PM

but that would be the cheapest and easiest- 1" NPS steel pipe (Nominal Pipe Size) and a 1" steel round bar (edited)

1:20 PM

NPS schedule 40

1:20 PM

NPS 1-SCH 40 = O.D.33,4 mm - WT. 3,38 mm - I.D. 26,64 mm

1:21 PM

and 1" bar is 25.4mm which is a reasonably close fit

@Cookieman : using 2 different materials is highly recommended for the injector due to desirable thermal re-configuration. you will be fine with the same material too. as for stainless, it's seems quite hard to find barrel and plunger with the sizes needed. Best is to have around 0.1 clearance. If you're lucky, a machine shop can get you this done for less than 100 bucks.

1:54 PM

'thermal re-configuration' - ash on my head, I wanted to sound like a pro

Thx for the input

Hello everyone, anybody have any ideas, why Solidwork program 2013 cannot open the CAD file Shredder Pro? Thank for your sharing. (edited)

it's solid works 2019 but there are step files you can import

@Deleted User how to import that file?

@Kosal : File -> Open -> Set FileMask to Step, not sure it's there in solidworks 2013

@Deleted User Thank you, now it works.

#random-pictures, here the basic wiring for the single phase extruder variant. in the next iteration I am adding contactors and some little automation magic

11:15 AM

possibly a good idea to put number labels on all wires and map it in the manuals

@Deleted User like these, i'll find a non-ebay supplier though too..https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Linear-Actuator-1500N-150kg-Force-50-600mm-Stroke-Electric-Piston-2-Bracket/402102867582?hash=item5d9f32d67e:m:mwJr-EtODBtNxHb_EkGT-ww

12V Linear Actuator 1500N/150kg Force 50-600mm Stroke Electric Pist...

Linear Actuator Motor. Multiple Purpose Applications Linear Actuator. 1 x Linear Actuator Motor. Stroke length: 50mm/150mm/200mm/250mm/300mm/350mm/400/450mm/500mm/550mm/600mm. Color: Silver grey. Reverse Polarity Protection : Yes.

not sure though, they seem really slow, but 150KG sounds promising

5:13 PM

if you wanna try, we have some budget (edited)

many on amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multifunction-Actuator-Maximum-Lifting-Automation/dp/B07MFX5MB1/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3LUD6P3IZTA2T&dchild=1&keywords=linear+actuator+100mm&qid=1586272359&sprefix=linear+actuator%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-7

5:13 PM

i have one here i will be experimenting with but its a big one, 600mm

cool

managed to drill and tap the end of my barrel for 1/2" BSP... was really tricky without proper machines, had to use some very 'sporty' methods

yeah, i remember those times trying to make my own first drill press from scrap

5:18 PM

but got it work

, hand drill on 2 slides and 4 bushings

5:22 PM

dirrrty

5:23 PM

but super simple. the brass part will be part of the mould, the barrel has no nozzle of its own

respect!

although now it seems everyne changed to M20?

possible, yeah- default here too. M20 is because there at least a good M12 -M14 flow in it.

also those bsp die cutters are ££££, i checked

5:33 PM

luckily found one in a box of junk for this

5:35 PM

but i think in general this approach will help with the blockage issue, i can put the heat band right at the end of the barrel to keep it hot, the path of the melted plastic will be very short

that's the way, yeah

just thinking as well, with the actuator idea for a compact machine for schools etc the stability is much less of an issue if there are no long levers with kids hanging on them... just press a button and stand back

reminds me that we still didn't work out a good valve

5:41 PM

private schools are quite more flexible about this; public schools don't have much budgets usually

i just mean for the stability, you were saying that's a problem with the v3 design

yeah, i'm just wondering about how the structure will end up; you want to pull the lever down ? (edited)

no, put it direct in line with the barrel

5:44 PM

no lever

puh, well, it said 150kg, might work with soft plastic

5:46 PM

and smaller diameter, how much you've got ?

maybe 2 short actuators together, side by side?

have a hard time to imagine this right now; have to finish right now the toolpost drill for the cartridge heater marathon

cool, good luck

@Deleted User something like this? actuators pulling down both sides (edited)

1

bingo !

7:06 PM

thats 2x150Kg at ~30mm/sec ; might do, I would remove the barrel door in favor for more volume

7:07 PM

if that works, you just invented the most portable injector in PP - incl. the most awesome

happy birthday

7:10 PM

not sure though how to sync them right but still have some ideas from the double leadscrew auto-plunger

yeah i was thinking about how to stop them getting out of line... I think we can make one a slave to the other one with a couple of limit switches, if they get out of line it will switch one off until the other one catches up

7:18 PM

i just tested my 600mm actuator, it took 50sec to do the full stroke which is obviously too slow, but i was only on 12V and it should be 24V for this one.... Im guessing it will be a bit under 30mm/second, will try later with more batteries

7:21 PM

yea the door in the barrel can be removed, make it more like the arbor press where the plunger comes up out of the barrel completely and swings out of the way for loading (edited)

7:26 PM

Ha! got a better way to avoid misalignment too... (edited)

1

7:35 PM

like this it doesnt matter if they get out of line so much

quite a project, ordering now 2 here too

cool! what size?

same as yours

hahah ok.. im thinking mine is too big

7:37 PM

the one in that drawing is 400mm tall and I think 200mm stroke

7:40 PM

i bet they would take a bit higher voltage ya know... the 12v ones would probably handle 18v without too much heating, and would be faster (edited)

hm having second thoughts now about removing that door

8:13 PM

i think its necessary to have that upper section of the barrel because that's what keeps the plunger straight.. like that we can let the actuators pivot freely top and bottom, and the connecting piece pivots on the middle as well, where it's attached to the plunger. that way it doesn't matter if one side is out of line of the other, it will work the same at an angle, the plunger will stay straight because its in the barrel and the actuators will go at a slight angle, no problem.

8:14 PM

when they get to the end they automatically stop anyway so the other side will catch up at the top or bottom

also i think that top bar needs to be a triangle so it pivots right... not sure.. gonna get stuck in to a proper model tonight

8:28 PM

@Timberstar , sounds good and like revolution@pp ! no idea how that those actually work. enjoy! got my tool post drill covid19@frankenstein-ish done; finger cross ;-) i am out for today

1

here's what i mean about it being able to go out of line without causing a problem (exaggerated to show the effect, it would never get this far out of line)

1

yeah got it, may be we do the rest in galaxy ? the ~2000 lurkers here don't seem to have anything to add to this anyways

1

Is there any plan for making one of the open source ventilator project's molds? OSVentilator is a good one.

@alistar : not that I am aware of. I am watching their efforts (https://gitlab.com/open-source-ventilator/ventilator/OpenLung) but I am hesitating. For now, I am feeling little more confident with 'oxygen protofy' (see links https://forum.precious-plastic.org/c/corona-virus/45) since I could do this with the sheepress soon and it doesn't involve too much error prone components.

2:15 PM

OSV has btw. an excellent Slack with lots of peer contributors and side projects; worth checking once each day.

@alistar : MIT is releasing soon a similar device, FDA appliance pending : https://e-vent.mit.edu/

E N

MIT E-VENT | Emergency ventilator design toolbox

The MIT Emergency Ventilator (E-Vent) is a toolkit created for rapid response in a crisis. It is offered as open source, and will evolve as we learn more.

#sheetpress I´ve made a number of experiments regarding a good fit for the cartridge heaters : 1. the cartridge heater it self as used in v4 measures 11.91mm diameter (using precision caliper) , it didn´t expand much at 220degc, 0.02 +/- 0.01 2. with the best drill at 11.5 I had around, and a reamer I got, the hole end up at 12.1, and that was very carefully done on the lathe 3. I did heat up the Alu then also up to 220V and it did expand to 12.18 +/- 0.05 I looked up our suppliers but I couldn´t find a reamer nor drill at 11.9 - I think this should be at more 11.8 for a good heat fit.

4:59 PM

5:03 PM

the 25k energy bill from last year makes sense by now

@Deleted User Rubix previous Brammer in Galdacano is a good supplier of tools...let me know if you need their contact

2

yeah, yes please! I thought we're well connected with the industrial suppliers but there's always more and better

5:25 PM

found it, http://cms.brammer.es/rubix.htm. thanks !

How's this done right actually ? ISO fits & limits doesn't apply here due to heat expansion. (edited)

5:39 PM

@ごみ子 found it : https://es.rubix.com/es/escariador-de-maquina-hprc-alta-precision-au-1-100-carburo/p-G1409008140 | whopping 160E, this one makes a 11.73 nominal, so I heat the cartridge heater block up and it should be at around 11.9 ... (edited)

5:39 PM

thanks again

Hi, i'm planning to build/buy an extruder. What electronic components etc is "must buy" and which can i make on my own? I live on a farm so we have a lot of equipment and materials. Want the cheapest possible. Kind regards Mathias

barrel mount with shield support, 6 hours; not exactly party prove but it can take a punch, or two

2

btw. the square below (4x6cm solid) is simply priceless, I use it for a lots of steps : layout, work-holding, weld fixture, .... was wondering to make it as product but a bit more 1-2-3 block-ish (with more holes/taps)

Looking for info on how much force is required on the injector plunger, is anyone able to measure with scales while injecting?

Looking for max force, so with your tightest nozzle and most awkward mould

@Timberstar : nozzle consensus : good question, we had good thoughts in the forum : https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALeKk01zYIku4feJW979Zpq5K2-hRX1UUQ%3A1586520795915&ei=22KQXvm5N_3KgweoiprIBA&q=nozzle+OR+adapter+OR+mold+site%3A%2F%2Fdavehakkens.nl&oq=nozzle+OR+adapter+OR+mold+site%3A%2F%2Fdavehakkens.nl&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzoECCMQJ0oJCBcSBTEyLTc3SggIGBIEMTItOFDYTVi3XGCRbWgAcAB4AIABU4gBzgSSAQE4mAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpeg&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwi5k-DD6t3oAhV95eAKHSiFBkkQ4dUDCAw&uact=5 at the end you want folks to have not too much custom stuff, or at least easy to replace. here in the production, the time budge to make one is pretty low but yet, it takes around one hour. we've got no complains with the M20 and a M12/M14 bore approach. there is still open issues to tackle : a valve, turns out difficult to do since it has easily inconvenient consequences (edited)

2:21 PM

Stan said, I should ditch the thread interface all together

Yea I was wondering about that, but a heat fit wouldn't work since its a heated part... could be welded in..?

the barrel out thread, yes - it's welded

2:26 PM

heat fit : ye, doesn't work well - tried

2:28 PM

here are good eggs : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/pp-v4-mold-standard/

so the threaded interface youre thinking about ditching, you mean to attatch the mould? ie do it by compression only? im in favour of that, i really like your hack with the car jack pushing it up, thinking about an integrated version of that

no, the thread which comes out of the barrel and, yes - compression only is desirable

2:29 PM

the central pin in the end of the plunger? (edited)

Stan said i shouldn't but it's cool to push out left overs with each stroke (edited)

yea

2:31 PM

might be better to turn it from 1 piece

2:31 PM

quite long for the late though

it's faster via tapping just

2:32 PM

out for lunch

1

bon appetit

yo, challenge is to have a system which works both: vX injector and extruder. the customized M20 works both

ok

anyone an idea how to generate a square wave at 100KHz ? It´s for driving a servo via Arduino (spits out only 50KHz already using GPIO accel via ASM). I tried pretty much everything, incl. a the famous N555 timer which isn´t really square but worked at least (20KHz).

IT is a bit high but a synthesizer a bit tweaked could do it if you have no oscilloscope

great, it´s for shredder auto-plunger

I have a good scope, just having problems to install it for the homing which wants to be fast

3:18 PM

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland , i will check what i find this night on the scrap, thanks mate

@Deleted User thought about it while doing something else the big issue is that audio format is 96 KHz max :/ are you sure of your scaling? Most of my music production would struggle with this kind of frequency. You could try with an old computer from the time you could actually see what is going on inside coupled with a midi controller? That would basically make squares I think. No idea about frequency I would need to dig into the formats

Cooling system is running. Will do the first tests with plastic but the circuitry is working (thanks to a friend heating engineer) water goes through underfloor heating manifold then pump then car radiator. The filling is done by the T which offers a bit of waterhead and allows degassing the air out of the circuit

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland thanks, basically it´s just a clock speed problem, Arduino with it´s 16Mhz won´t do more whilst real CNC boards have no problem generating this.

5:31 PM

but you´re right, I could technically archive this with a crystal osc and big bunch of ·$%·$%654 fuckery to get a stable square (falling edge in the 5us). I just hoped somebody here knows a ready to go module.

Good morning. Shredder question: Does anyone know of a coupling with a key connection (motor, 45mm, 500Nm) on one side and a clamp connection (shredder, 20mm) on the other?

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto : you can try the BOM for the v4 shredder : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Lxjf18IIPvAGDSyj3Mgu82NhVF4AmeHptwvmrgrhuyU/edit?usp=sharing

Shredder

BOM Netherland Type,Item,Qty.,URL (Europe),Price,Part/Assembly Number,Notes Service,gears keyway machining,2,https://www.gta.nl/,€ 60.00,SHRPRO-V1 1100.03-A, SHRPRO-V1 1100.04-A Beams and Sheets,mild steel, OD19mm x ID16mm,0,3m,

2:37 PM

v4 extruder - economy version walk though - 18min talking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWpKdaYInZ0

Sources https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/lydia-v4

Plastic Hub

PP v4.2 c-edition - screw components

plastic-hub/products

Contribute to plastic-hub/products development by creating an account on GitHub.

Hi folks. Looking at building an Injector; I downloaded the starterkit but have also seen plasticpreneur's ultimate wooden build. Are there open-source plans for the wooden build (i've a cnc router so that build could be fastest for me) or - what's the most recent/best Injector build, if I want to make facemasks?

this is here is the only open source variant out there : https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=99. You could do that in wood too but you still need the arbor/transmission drive - which isn't exactly easy to make - even with a solid Lathe and the needed adjustable 4 jaw chuck. Also in terms of stability, durability, shot size, you might be better off with the original arbor injector. Sorry

3:04 PM

once you have the transmission, you just build the rest around it - pretty easy at the end

That looks good; I've lathe/4-jaw and mill too...space, time and materials, just wondering which is the best design to go for

well, then you're fine - was about to make video about the arbor today; I think there is no such thing as best design since it mostly depends on the tools and parts you have

3:07 PM

video should be this evening; that explains the essentials to make a good arbor injector

great

will ping you via DM

3:13 PM

ah, man. I just realised it's a linear stage. I built my cnc router & have quite a few bits lying around...gonna go dig through the pile.

@freemoore have you considered the v3 extruder instead ?

3:24 PM

it´s way more easy to make after all, yet involves a solid lathe and small mill to make it really good

just googled it - that doesn't look suitable for injection molding?

big injection molding is using extrusion screws, how the plastic got fluid doesn´t really matter to the mold

or maybe it does...does it have the same sort of nozzle pressure as the injector?

it´s enough to make beams, if done right it´s also enough fill up molds (depends)

3:28 PM

but yeah, complicated stuff might require more force as in v3.x

ok cool, i'll have a read. lathe is also cnc (first retrofit project) so if the extruder screw is short enough to be made with what I have, it might work

looks like you´re more than fine doing this !

i'm good for tools, aye. just that I can really easily lose focus when trying to design and build; helps me a lot to have a known design to aim for even if what i end up producing is ahem somewhat 'custom'

yeah, took me ages to get the abor as is now, nothing really to add or to remove. i remember my first trials, lot´s of just awful stupid things i did that days

3:32 PM

okey, gonna make the video now

cool, thanks for chatting

@freemoore : here you go : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yOqrhqlp7Q | details in another video next week but more or less it's all there.

Plastic Hub

Elena - Walkthrough

@Deleted User Great videos! So useful to see all the details close up. The indexing trick with the saw blade, you mean a circular saw? That's pretty neat and could be used in lots of ways...

yeah, circular saw, those come at 0.01 mm precision, laser cut : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTzyzqRcmao ; technically you can combine multiple

good to see your nozzle up close too, you find press fit is enough? That's great to know

Hello everyone...

possible, but want's to be welded but you can clean it up with and angle grinder well too ; otherwise 4 spot welds might do.

@Deleted User hi there

5:20 PM

@Timberstar hello

1

hey, I am out for today - did my PP voluntary help job today

5:23 PM

@dev_300710 : back to you tomorrow !

@Deleted User tc

@Deleted User Thanks, but 346€ just for the coupling? Will search for a cheaper solution than this: https://de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221005152435/?CategorySpec=00000190783%3A%3Aa%0900000190800%3A%3Ai%0900000190738%3A%3Amig00000002000589%0900000190787%3A%3Amig00000002000371 If someone has an idea, please share :)

the idea was to route you to a supplier and the naming - for v3 shredders you can do with much less, still count on 100E or so.

6:14 PM

we still do them on the mill & lathe, takes 4 hours with good tooling : https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/components/couplings/ (edited)

6:15 PM

someone should clean up the v3 BOMs :-))

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto : I just checked online near 'Dresden' but can't find anything; but you can ask around in the industrial areas, good luck

@Lauren Steller , you wanna look for "industrial exhaust fans", with min. 300W and more, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zentrifugalgeblase-Radialgeblase-Radialventilator-Radiallufter-1800m-h-230V/192530334046

Centrifugal Blower Radial Blower Radial Fan Centrifugal Fan 1800m³/...

TURBO Zentrifugalgebläse Radialgebläse Radialventilator Radiallüfter 1800m³/h 230VGebläse, Ventilator Lüfter Radial. en Kanallüfter Zuluft Abluft Absaugung Wand Rohrventilator Rohrventilator. •Motor 230V / 290Watt.

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto yes, and if you take one size smaller it will break: tested

Likewise all undersized DIY solutions will fail too. Better to save some money and get a proper coupler or look for a second hand one (if it matches the specs).

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto , yeah, McMaster is also pointing to 150$+ couplings given the constraints needed. I can put you a set for 100E (friend price) together with the injector in your package; they have 70mm OD, ID according to your specs, and they're keyed as well. (edited)

12:21 PM

for anyone else who's interested, doing couplings paid out ok for us; needs lathe, mill, cnc and a broaching bar (300e) just

@dev_300710 shared this video with me, very interesting to see the operating system on this machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBU-xRzTa08

Richard Moller

Automated all electric micro injection molding machine

9:01 PM

with cool music too

@Timberstar I've been watching youtube videos on smaller machines like this. I think it would be pretty easy to produce. just a small extruder into the adjustable moulds.

@Anthonyvanvolkinburg maybe not easy, but not impossible...

Yeah, not "Easy" but doable.

yeah, until you have to write the firmware for this thing - it's all relative easy but no worry, that's in progress too

I assume a 1/4 ton in plastic for testing alone

im interested in the paramaters which are used

there are 100s parameters, not mentioning the possible error states yet

(edited)

@Timberstar This is the machine i'd like to build: https://youtu.be/YWbRwreBXfk

Andrey Korotkov

Microplast double mold with tunnel sprues. 2х местная форма с туне...

2

for small stuff this can be 'relative' easy but as soon you're at 3+ tons in pressure you want an insane amount of sensors. takes years to get this really done nice and for everybody

I like that layout though. its a kinda extruder injector

9:07 PM

the screw doesn't move in and out

9:08 PM

yea I guess that limits it to relatively low pressure

noteworthy to watch & support in this regard : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFOtOOW2Ca7-eFZhMy544uw (support him on patreon, slow but he's moving well) , and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITEQbINk1xE&ab_channel=AndysMachines. And the russian guy wanted to open source but never did ..

Yeah, but for smaller stuff like those parts it wouldn't be a bad gig.

dunno, i don't see much trouble with resin pellets but with recycled plastic yes

@Anthonyvanvolkinburg yea its very neat and relatively low investment

yeah, parts are stupid cheap for a small version

eventually there can be properly graded recycled pellets, that can be something to look into as we start to get to the bigger machines

kind of labor intensive, but couldn't you just extrude and cut your own pellets?

yea thats what i mean, but would be good to have a standardized recipe

Dear friends. Please tell me the link to download the usual shredder, not PRO. On the site I see files for the Shredder PRO series thanks

for repeatability

9:18 PM

@KATERINI Co https://forum.precious-plastic.org/t/shredder-v3/49

@KATERINI Co : looks like I am not the only one being lost in all the clickery, https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-mix

9:20 PM

@Timberstar : doing major rework right now, link broke

ah ok

@KATERINI Co : PM me, we have updates.

gonna move to the plastic channel for thoughts on recipes

@Anthonyvanvolkinburg , yes you can, there´s is also a pellet cutter in the library : https://precious-plastic.org/library/machines/

Dang i guess there isn't any new ideas out there. ha

possible ya, we just rebake it down to DIY and sustainable open source

Dear experts, I plan to melt the granules into blanks of size 400x500 for a thickness of 200-300 mm. I want to try this block for milling instead of MDF. What do you think will work out? I am new to these issues. Thanks for the advice.

hey guys

@KATERINI Co there are problems making blocks that size because the plastic shrinks as it cools. The outside cools first and goes hard, but the inside is still melted... it wants to shrink more, but the outside is solid... so it shrinks towards the outside and makes a hole in the middle like a bubble (edited)

10:51 PM

This makes it unsuitable for milling

10:53 PM

Better to try to make a mould for the plastic in the right shape, that is the usual way

10:56 PM

Best dimensional stability is around 6mm wall thickness max. That's why most large plastic objects we see are hollow, often with internal structures such as ribs to add strength

@Timberstar just a side node from DMs with @KATERINI Co , she was considering throwing bottles at v3 or so

@Timberstar Thanks you

Anyone knows what to use to make machine manuals ? We use Markdown wherever we can, and it looks like that we can convert this to something "Adobe InDesign" can process via https://pandoc.org/. Ideally we want PDFs we can print, in multiple languages.

@Deleted User why not start with a wiki with a good export module so you don't need to print and you keep it dynamic?

Wiki is in progress (basically a tweaked forum) and it´s just an output among others as the Bazar descriptions for the Markdown files on Github (THE first source) which are also soon are written in something more custom which enables layout containers, language and other filters (covers most). I am still a little old fashion to put a manual in paper into the package :-). Idea is also to fill up the manuals with how tos,... We have some customers who´d prefer to have it printed just. Same for warranty papers, circuit diagrams, ...

1

3:07 PM

so yeah, it´s kinda dynamic already. PDF per demand. (edited)

So, is 'InDesign' still a thing ?

Does anyone mill their own moulds?

Hey so I'm on the website and I can't seem to find plans for the basic shredder (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder) , I can only find the "shredder pro."

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

8:21 PM

May be try this

@JMX Thanks, JMX. So I went to your link, and downloaded the "Shredder workspace," then I unzipped the file, and in folder "3. Build your machine" there is only "Shredder Pro" files. I'm looking for the regular shredder, not the "pro."

@SlappyHands : https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-mix/tree/master/3.%20Build%20the%20machines | updates for 30mm (v3.2 ce) or 32 mm hexbar (v3.1 ce) : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products

@Deleted User Thank you very much, that's exactly what I'm looking for.

PM if you need help - v3 is a little chaos, the 'official' version got no updates, but there are community updates (edited)

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland , indeed, turns out that synthesizers use programmable oscillators to create frequencies. I've found the Si514 module (https://es.farnell.com/silicon-labs/514cbb000112aag/osc-mems-prog-100khz-170mhz-5mm/dp/2930628), which is just perfect since it supports I2C, right on the money. happy plunging, can't wait to see it homing back at light-speed (3000RPM on a standard actuator leadscrew) :-))

1

Hello, everyone, I am starting to build Shredder Pro, I already check the kit , basically I will start with the machining part, My first question is What material do you recommend for its manufacture? I will start to quote this part and my supplier ask me

@Luis_OE I have no experience building those machines, but you should watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GWYJhAd-R0&t=1s if you haven't

it should help somehow

davehakkens

How to build a pro plastic shredder

Thanks I already have it, let me check again

1

hi everyone, I'm having trouble controlling the injection temperature. I set both heating temperatures at 150℃. However, one temperature drops below 40℃ and the other temperature continues to rise above 250℃. If I separate the electrical components from the pipes and test them, they work normally. But when I join it to a pipe where plastic is injected, problems arise. How can it be solved?

@Deleted User old synth are the best

Using the harmonics you could transform that into a tune afterwards

yeah, I have a friend who's doing very noisy music, with 8bit computers, TVs and what not (https://motsmusic.es/carnus-electronica-experimental-en-moia). Gonna see him as soon I can sneak out here. I've got just a little into it now; I feel also a little ashamed being so long in programming and still got no real clue about the hardware. I just starting grasping a little what the guy here is doing : https://eater.net/8bit. Nice new hobby

Hi there

1

@Timberstar looks like good linear actuators are quite out of reach, 700$ + https://www.thomsonlinear.com/en/products/linear-actuators

Linear Actuators - Thomsonlinear.com

Little to no maintenance linear actuators. Easily incorporated into automated processes. Comprehensive selection of linear actuators.

hm but those are really top of the line

3:42 PM

there are 3 versions of the 8" one here: https://www.servocity.com/motors-actuators/linear-actuators/heavy-duty-linear-actuators

Heavy Duty Linear Actuators

3:46 PM

but the trade off power for speed is no good

3:48 PM

the middle one, 115lb = 52kg, x2 = 104kg

3:48 PM

i think its still not enough right?

100Kg is more less what our does, more than fine with the most - got no complains til now. (edited)

but that one can only do 10mm/s at full load

3:50 PM

could be that its not gonna be viable

those from tomson do this and more, but ey, 700E ++ ... I am really fan of the manual machines

well i dug out the winch, looks very promising as a cheap gearbox (edited)

3:54 PM

58 teeth on the big wheel, 12 on the small one so 4:1

mh, 1:4, I hope the needed lever which adds the missing 1:45 won't destroy it

4:14 PM

just guessting

also seems like their (small) rack gear is fitted to the big one, so 2 transitions

just for ref : the abor here plunges 35 cm with 1, 1/2 rounds on the handle (50cm) - and that's very decent speed and pleasant to use

how long does it take to plunge?

4.5 secs , but that's just the fastest

4:25 PM

TPU/TPE want's it slow, PLA too as far I remember

ok so about 80mm/s (edited)

so 8kg*m/s

hi all, i am laurent from belgium, i am a makers, 3D and many friends… and search schredder for rebuilt PLA, PETG, and more via my extruder

5:57 PM

i am files for cut laser all item, but possible buy shredder plug and play ?

found this useful calculator https://www.custompartnet.com/calculator/clamp-force

Clamping Force Calculator

Calculates the clamping force for injection molding and die casting. Clamping force indicates the amount of force that the clamping unit can apply to the mold to keep it securely closed during the injection of the molten plastic.

1

I have questions regarding Extruder Pro. I can see that this extruder can create much wider bar than its nozzle. What is the nozzle size? What is the maximum thin and wide bar it can extrude? How create back pressure in the mold so that the plastic fills the whole section- not familiar with plunger with a high temperature silicone seal method? Reference read would be appreciated.

@dev_300710 @Deleted User What do you think about this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoSQT5fhs50 (edited)

KC Engineering

Hydraulic Power Pack By KC Engg Works Mumbai

So I am thinking that there is much room for improvment in the v4 sheet press. Based on my experience with my smaller compression molder. I made my mold water cooled which dramatically increased product finish and speed of finishing

2

2:46 AM

if the big sheet press was designed as each side has a hollow core that you pump water thru, I think the results would be better

@Butte (PP Philippines) yea this has been suggested, difficulties arise in machining the plate... but definitely on the cards for a future revision

2:52 AM

another approach might be to use removable 'baking tray' type plates which are cooled separately, allowing the machine to stay hot

Good evening, sorry, someone has the extrusion machine files but the BASIC, not the latest version

@Daniel Medina v3 is in the download pack

@Butte (PP Philippines) : right now we have the idea to integrate the cooling press which seems adventurous still ; for now we managed to re-design it for flat-packing, interlocking (for standard sheets 1.20m x 2.40m), as well heat & lifetime preservation for the cartridge heaters. the cooling press seems definitively an obstacle, the price is already high (edited)

12:11 PM

the other thing is that those folks are more interested in 1.20 m sheets, i am still building a shed here to get one build up

12:14 PM

@Timberstar : hydraulic pack is great, we receive one soon, 3kw and 40L tank; at 1600E or so. with the lockdown I've got some time messing around with it for a while before sending it. 'MakeItExtreme' made a few videos about : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8pJ3x7WSnxU

@Deleted User cool they actually have an instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic-Power-Pack/

Hydraulic Power Pack

Hydraulic Power Pack: After making a plunger presented on one of our previous videos and as we make machines that work using plungers, we considered it necessary to add a mobile, hydraulic unit in our shop too. This construction is the unit that transfers the oil with ...

1

@Butte (PP Philippines) : happy to see you back btw. I hope things are stable there

but no blueprints

@Timberstar : awesome, i think this can be designed on the go

@Timberstar Blueprint seem only good as long you can get the parts. Looking at the wiki/library traffic, seems like folks are mostly interested to source parts, PP wise there are lots of clicks on PIDs, heatbands, motors. Regarding marketing, I remember I started a rough outline here : https://github.com/plastic-hub/factory/blob/master/documents/Overview.md | this was initially outlined for a single entity but might worth checking how to apply this to PP as a whole.

1:30 PM

There is also a growing list of todos for tooling : https://github.com/plastic-hub/lang/tree/master/cli#conversions

on it

Can anybody tell me where the blueprints are?

simple, no ?

3

1

Maundg i am on2vhf your are message for mee ?

@Bezba : 400V is only recommended for the v4 shredder and extruder, you can run them also at 220V, it just sucks more amps; I'd increase the motor power by around 33% in this case.

OK thanks

No worries

I guess you wanna build v3 ?

@Deleted User lots of detail here, this should be a good basis for reverse engineering http://www.continentalhydraulics.co.uk/pdf/2013/power_units/little_champ_hydraulic_power_unit_kits.pdf

ye, thanks ! i guess the tank is easy; I still feel having no idea about hydraulics despite I toyed with lots simulators and watched endless trainings videos and books.I guess the missing bit of actually using and building it will add more confidence. Hydraulics seems a little like pneumatic to me, with too cheap stuff it's leaking everywhere

(edited)

but looks like this hydraulic power pack can be the ultimate mate for PPers owning a sheetpress & injector & extruder (auto clamping system). A complete system (assembled) to lift the dual press for instance is 'just' around 1600e (3kw). From what I see, this can be done cheaper - ie: more in the 900 euro range. (edited)

2:29 PM

much like in a steam shop, just the colin furze way : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1dTwm8Lmpc

colinfurze

Workshop Hydraulic System/Press conversion

exactly what im thinking... i am getting some mentoring about hydraulics from @dev_300710, i think we can make a version of this powerpack to be the centrepiece of a new set of machines

yeah, I'd love to have also electronic valves, the system I receive soon would have been just 1000e more with e - control :-)) (edited)

yea they (the valves) are gonna be one of the obstacles as they run on 3 phase. otherwise it could be a 220v VFD (edited)

2:33 PM

maybe some kind of workaround with servos operating manual valves..

Hey everyone, I need some advice. I left my injection machine on all night last night and now the bottom two heater bands aren't heating up. The PID controller is registering the right temperature and its showing an output of 100. Are my heater bands trash now? Do i need to buy new ones? Can this be fixed by just turning it off for a while?

Hi firstly thanks everyone for the awesome info... I have a questions though, purely theoretical.. When building the double axle shredder what is the smallest motor and gearbox I can use to build the shredder?

5:20 PM

Purely volumetrically... What if I want conserve space

Also, what would the quality standards and max times to repair.

@Dylan : https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro ? I could imagine to downsize it a little, eg: 2/3 of the blades only. About quality & maintenance, hard to say, it just left kinda wet towels

6:06 PM

Anyone an idea how to hold repeatedly 25x50x80 mm blocks in an adjustable 4 jaw chuck on the lathe ? I have to drill hundreds of cartridge heater blocks; I guess making a kinda quick clamp which I can dial in anytime might be the way to go

@Deleted User thank you very much

self aligning cartridge heater block 'vise' with automatic chamfering , 2hrs, you have to kick it out from the other side

(edited)

2

Handy reference http://www.sentridge.com/wp-content/uploads/mounting-dimensions.pdfhttp://www.sentridge.com/wp-content/uploads/mounting-dimensions.pdf

http://opensourcemachinetools.org/human-powered-generator-project-genny/

osmachinetools

Treadle-Powered Generator (Project Genny) - My CMS

A multiperson treadle-powered alternator that can be used for village lighting, cell phone charging or mechanical power to drive many … Read More →

10:28 AM

good source of power for v5 machines?

3

10:30 AM

might need a few of them is all

i love these guys, the concrete lathe also is great but i especially like the idea of taking engine blocks and using the perfect bore of the cylinder to mount a spindle

10:34 AM

sometimes wondered if a motorbike engine could be turned into an injection machine hehe

yeah the concrete lathe is really appealing

Hi, I am interested in pro-extruder by Precisions Plastic. With this extruder, how wide beam profile can be created?

Can we work with tetra paks on a shredder and then use something like hot pressing?

@Timberstar : then you might love Clickspring's work : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtWVA7_9Rik - the guy is in clock making but does exceptional remakes of ancient tools, in my top 5 youtube hero list

Clickspring

Antikythera Fragment #6 - Making A Hand Powered Drill

@abhasib : good question! depends on a few things like what plastic, preheated mold or not (quality!), beam mold back pressure (still to investigated). I'd say you will ok with 8x8 cm beams (and some fiddling)

I am thinking of preheating the mold.

@mrigi : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8J3_lgDVrdo | https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/project-kamp-sustainable-construction-methods-2/

8:57 PM

not sure the shredder does this well, but good idea to check it just, will let you know

What is the pro-extruder nozzle size to connect to the mold?

@Deleted User Guédelon seems like a futuristic experiment now lol

thanks @Deleted User

Let me know when you check it on your shredder

Thanks @Deleted User

@abhasib nozzle size: depends how you do it, everybody does his own magic there. let me find some pics back (edited)

Thanks a lot @Deleted User

btw, guys, i made a little system to make mini howtos on the go, we collect and extend all here : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/howto. get´s better over time, still have to migrate lots of old footage

(edited)

9:17 PM

@abhasib brutal simple at the end

2

9:17 PM

more in https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/lydia-v4/media

@Deleted User If 8 cm X 8 cm beam is possible, can we create a mold that can produce 8 beams of area (8cm X 1 cm) continuously? Plastic type PP; PE.

8x8 was only a wild guess, speculating from what I´ve seen in v3 (5x5), 8x1 should be no problem but I am just guessing

v3 might be able to do this too with high pitch screws.

9:42 PM

best is to probably use the cross cut surface, yeah, 8x1 can be done on v3 too, just slower. if not, please downvote me later

@Deleted User can multiple 8 cm X1 cm bar be extrude from a single mold? I am thinking of extruding 4 bars continuously in parallel, each 8 cm X1 cm.

good idea! might be possible for smaller cross sections, I pass on this one, anyone ?

We are working on a workable solution, but it is different from what you see advertised in the videos. I managed to extrude 10x10 before it went boom because of moisture in the plastic. I don't want to sell the skin of the bear before killing it but I am hoping to show something by the end of the month. Everything is stalled here and it is lambing season so it is even "worserer" ;) I think parallel extrusion is probably doable but you will spend so much money in the design of the flow of the plastic, the cooling and to remove the plastics that it is not worth it. I don't think with a PP machine you would save time because you would have a lot of reject. In line extrusion through die is the best in my opinion and clearly that's what all the industry is doing, there must be a reason

2

Would this be suitable for Extruder Pro?

@GarrettCadou 5hp is more than enough

11:37 PM

Colin Furze Workshop tour : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqTDfpIpub4&ab_channel=colinfurze - amazing what came out of this little shop!

colinfurze

Colin Furze Workshop/Tools Tour & Wolverine Claws

@Deleted User hydraulics... tiny little power pack he has, they are not expensive

still 800 bucks, 300-500 on aliexpress; I want this plasma table so badly, 10k

https://britonmade.co.uk/new-and-used-hydraulic-power-packs/191-2kw-hydraulic-power-pack-3-phase-12-lpm-at-1500-psi.html for 850, much more power

2.2kw hydraulic power pack 3 phase 12 lpm at 1500 psi - Britonmade ...

2.2kw hydraulic power pack 3 phase power unit

11:54 PM

im getting really into the hydraulics thing, opens up a new world

11:54 PM

aiming for a machine with 240ton clamping force

11:56 PM

something that can produce bricks at a profitable rate

100+

solidworks porn : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAY7Uuapw2E&ab_channel=EasyCADSolutions , watch his other videos, he plays it like a piano

Easy CAD Solutions

How to make 'HoneyComb Pattern on Twisted Toroid' in Solidworks 2016

1

@Deleted User that's great... 'twist control' is something i don't have

1:11 AM

nerdy physics porn https://www.engineersedge.com/mechanics_machines/mechanics_machines_menu.htm

Mechanics and Machine Design, Equations and Calculators - Engineers...

Mechanics and Machine Design, Equations and Calculators, Design of Load Carrying Shaft With One Pulley & Supported by two Bearings, Flywheel Effect or Polar Moment of Inertia, Lifting Boom, Davits Application and Design Equations, Large and Small Diameter Lifting Pulley / Drum...

1

oh man i am just dipping my toes into 5 point double toggle clamping mechanisms

1:43 AM

@Deleted User https://reader.elsevier.com/reader/sd/pii/S0307904X11001211?token=02D9193E5A56598350C3CEA1A989FB5F8737853D7994A958CA6E8FF75F2BC9A5D8C7860A3C4BE790E350CF2FAF887569 (edited)

1:48 AM

1

1:48 AM

it's big brain time

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Kuo_Mo_Hsiao/publication/245387542/figure/fig3/AS:828413094944768@1574520481293/Geometry-of-the-conventional-toggle-linkage-during-mould-closing_Q640.jpg a thing of beauty

1

oh neat, the gingery lathe people made a injection molding machine book too https://gingerybookstore.com/InjectionMoldingMachine.html

Build a Plastic Injection Molding Machine

How To Build a Plastic Injection Molding Machine, Gingery Vincent R, ISBN 1878087-19-3

2

PP vs. gingery https://twitter.com/i/status/1242802911656185856

Is this the simplest injection machine possible??? NEW METHOD - Resin Cast Barrel and Mould!!! follow for more photos...

12:14 AM

Aluminium plunge-bar is set in the centre of a can - it has a small 3d printed 'nozzle' section which it's sitting on

you could even use your car as sheetpress though

cast with high temp resin

12:16 AM

the mould for the part made in another can

12:17 AM

throw it at https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/howto too, the system picks it (edited)

gotta trim the faces to get a decent seal

12:19 AM

yea i will, this is my brother's work, i got him to take enough pics for a how to

it just wants pics, text is for kids

12:21 AM

you can though: 1.jpg & 1.md and done

how the part comes out; it's a nose cone for a towed underwater camera, will be turned down slightly with CNC lathe

1

12:23 AM

this method works by heating the plastic in the resin-cast 'barrel' in a normal oven (edited)

12:24 AM

since they are so easy to make you could have multiple barrels heating in sequence

12:25 AM

12:27 AM

here's the little nozzle part that forms the hole.. you could use anything, half a bottle cork.. my bro 3d printed something because he's like that

AndyN did this already before : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/projects/mini-heat-press/media/preview.JPG

time to step it up

12:28 AM

a little reminder though too : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/portable-desktop-injection-machine/page/3/

with a cast barrel?

no, just placed it here for small scale, keep moving

AndyN´s press though is kinda genius to punch the cans (edited)

well.. moving from small to big... we need a computer scientist who can build a genetic algorithm

12:41 AM

the rules of the algorithm are set, just need to code it up, but it needs someone very brainy

well, they tutored me 6 years with math and another 3 years with coding, just missing the uplink, what you do mean ? (edited)

I've been learning about 5 point double toggle clamping systems

12:45 AM

thats the mechanism used on the big machines

ah, i think i get it, but it's mechanics, the topic I loose always

12:46 AM

5 point clamp, i checked but had only links to pics

12:46 AM

research gate porn from recently ? (edited)

so the geometry of these systems is complicated, the only way to get optimized lengths is to run a genetic algo

vale bale, weekend food

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0307904X11001211https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0307904X11001211

deal

it will make your head pop...

already did, wanna cry

http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.828.9042&rep=rep1&type=pdfhttp://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.828.9042&rep=rep1&type=pdf

try again,

12:52 AM

too lazy right now

Key_design_parameters_and_optimal_design_of_a_five-point_double-toggle_clamping_mechanism.pdf

856.4 KB

1

12:56 AM

Study_on_improvements_of_the_five-point_double-togglemould_clamping_mechanism.pdf

934.79 KB

great, looks doable

but the best one was this one https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s12008-014-0245-0?shared-article-renderer

Optimization approach for synthesis of 5 point double toggle mechanism

This paper deals with double toggle mechanism used for exerting clamping force between movable and fixed dies of a die casting machine. Loop closure method has been adopted to determine the displacement of the movable plate. In addition to stroke ratio, velocity ratio and mech...

12:59 AM

but i can't find it now without the paywall dammit.. sure i downloaded it...

1:01 AM

essentially the aim would be to write a python or java widget that can calculate the optimal arm-lengths in the 5pt double toggle mechanism for a given combination of clamping force, mould opening stroke, mechanical advantage ratio etc

yeah, need that anyway soonish for ppv5ex-auto-addon

i just like it because its a closely guarded algo that maybe could be figured out and released to the world

i think it's also ok doing it on the fly here in the shop, eg: PI - Thumb - one eye close / one leg (edited)

to an extent... but if we want to inject 1kg shot sizes 45x per min it needs to be a bit more one eye closed but both legs and keep thumb out of the way

ok, enough eyes divided by legs for today

1:09 AM

seeya

'night

nite

#sheetpress I have two questions regarding the Sheetpress v4 I am currently building. The holes for my cartridge heaters are a bit too big. I used the Heat conductive putty from Briskheat to fix them in the aluminium blocks but unfortunately this doesnt fix them. Does anyone has anytips on this, maybe other heat conductive glue? In the build video from precious plastic they extend the cartridge heater cables by soldering them and they say you will need soldering tin that can withstand higher temperatures. Does anyone know what kind of soldering wire you should use then?

can you use some aluminium sheet as shims to take up the slop?

10:33 AM

silver solder is what I've used to solder hot stuff in the past

10:33 AM

"Most high-temperature solder preforms made with silver use alloys containing about 45 to 90 percent silver and the remainder composed of copper, zinc, tin and cadmium. They can withstand heat ranging from about 700 to 950 degrees Celsius"

Thanks that could be an idea, I was also thinking maybe to drill a hole in every aluminum block where I can put an adjusting screw in to fix the cartridge heater in place. But how important is a very tight fit for the heat exchange? For the solder I will check silver indeed, maybe thats an option!

Need help please. I saw this on the bazar. Thats the basic for the Shredder right? https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=342

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: Shredder kit

@Leendert , you have to drill them at 11.5; and then use a reamer, if you can't, you make custom drill for 11.93 on the bench grinder (with a fixture); does this make sense ? Actually, to archive best results, it's better to get them to 11.85 and then heat press fit them. To make the holes faster on the lathe, here's a clamp : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/howto/sheetpress/cartridge_heater/hole/thumb.md. (edited)

11:27 AM

so yes, it's important to have full contact all around.

@crisdeluxe yes, seeem like all parts are there.

@ごみ子 all parts for what? Excuse me but im really new and dont understand so much from this stuff. I want to build my first shredder on low budget

@crisdeluxe All parts for Shredder, seller has given his mail, you can also contact him. You can check parts with this video: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

@Deleted User yep was scared for that also. I made the holes too big unfortunately, used a standrd 12mm metal drill

Do you have an idea if I can still use the aluminum blocks or will the heat loss betoo big? (edited)

I guess you have around 0.3 play, assuming 11.90 cartridge heaters, heat expansion is around 0.1mm. Just thinking about that the heater has only contact along a line, ... I build it at the moment for clients too and to me it would be scrap. The paste might help, but I don't think it helps with efficiency over long, nor do the heaters last long that way.

12:22 PM

so you drilled them all ? gosh, sorry to hear that (edited)

1

12:25 PM

setting up a little furnace might save them

Hehe, hmm too bad, well luckily I ordered a second set of aluminum blocks just in case. I could start over again and use a proper reamer instead. Was a bit too enthuasistic with drilling :S

lol, some of the heaters are even 11.84 btw. I've found the perfect reamer, it's 160Euro just; still have to make a press setup, will update the howtos about soon.

12:33 PM

i gonna try making custom drill too this days, evtl. this sorts it

I thought maybe as a quick fix drill a hole in every block and using a adjustment screw? Or won't that be very good for the cartridge heaters? Of course removing the cartrige heater when drilling the hole

(edited)

well, you can try it, that gives a few more contact points over having a line contact only. i opt for doing it right, can't risk much at this price

Yep better doing it right indeed

having a hard time to drill the plate btw. are there stud guns for Aluminum ?

12:41 PM

interesting exercise to make one though, challenge accepted

I think there are, I used watercuttign for all the aluminum

12:42 PM

And do you have any advice with what kind of solder to use for extending the cartridge heater cables? Since it need to withstand a melting temeprature of 300 degrees?

good question

@Leendert heat transfer paste? for heatsinks

1:40 PM

https://www.omega.co.uk/pptst/OT-201.html

(for in the hole)

Thanks! I think it should withstand at least 250 degrees isn't it?

I've got told that heat paste works only good when under pressure and tight fits. It's not made for 0.3mm + loose fits.

Hi everybody ! Do you know where i can found this ?

@Deleted User that's a block bearing. I use to order these kind of materials at https://www.maedler.de/ But you can find those on many places

search for 'UCFL 204' ( 20mm shaft )

Anyone an idea how to document control panel / cabinet wiring ? I tried Eagle (free) but that isn't really that illustrative. Solidworks has stuff built in but might be overkill. Draw.io was great so far. Some users wanted a video about, and I didn't forget

So here some on the go docs (https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/howto/controlbox/wiring/thumb.md). In the picture the HAL9000B, shredder and extrusion controller, still needs another audit but it's settled so far.

btw. that's a nice follow up package / product for builders, takes 2 days to make, kinda ideal for c19 days since most parts still get through Amazon.

does anyone have the blueprints for the injection machine?

our new prototype design compression molder for making items such as dipper buckets and plant pots. Powered by 3ton air bag jack

7

does anyone have the blueprints for the injection machine?

@Francky https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download ta-daaaa (edited)

Hi everybody! I am interested in Shredder Pro. Has anyone tried the machine with other materials, such as paper or wood?

our new prototype design compression molder for making items such as dipper buckets and plant pots. Powered by 3ton air bag jack

@Butte (PP Philippines) Do you think this could work for Bricks?

I am just throwing this in the pond as I guess that's where it belongs and what takes my mind in optimizing my machines for now. The sustainability of things and optimisation. I am wondering if that could be a topic on itself. From heat loss, heat transfer, power optimisation, toxicity etc. I think there is a real thinking to have on the building itself, the source of energy we choose and what we try to recycle. I have so many questions and maybe actual feedback from my observations/experiments. I don't really know where to start. As we were chatting, could it be the base of v5?

1

I am just throwing this in the pond as I guess that's where it belongs and what takes my mind in optimizing my machines for now. The sustainability of things and optimisation. I am wondering if that could be a topic on itself. From heat loss, heat transfer, power optimisation, toxicity etc. I think there is a real thinking to have on the building itself, the source of energy we choose and what we try to recycle. I have so many questions and maybe actual feedback from my observations/experiments. I don't really know where to start. As we were chatting, could it be the base of v5?

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland All of these subjects are v5 material - much needed. I also feel too much on the 'we do it because we can' side instead of the 'we do it because we should' :-). From my observation I am missing also the link/workflow/protocol between production (workspace) & the educational camp and the machine builders - much to learn and I guess there's lots of good stuff out there but nobody knows about. You could create a google group/forum, publish milestone results in a document, ideally the first draft should be part of the academy project directory so everybody can see it and join. The forum and Academy has Markdown support, easy to transfer content that way. Once again, learn Markdown & Github folks, you're now all part of the biggest plastic research project in the world - there is lot's to be figured still ! Btw. whilst at it, in top of optimization, let's add automation. Amazing stuff you've done there recently, @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland. (edited)

8:17 PM

To me, we just got over 'make it work', there is still 'make it good', followed by 'make it fast' (edited)

1

@Deleted User hi! I changed to come here...

10:38 PM

But can't find the video i made of the shredder "working"...

10:38 PM

By the way, this was what the file said for the motor

10:40 PM

It is because i can't download the video, too heavy

How To: Resin-Cast Injector @Deleted User @Uplifted https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/howto/resin-cast-barrel-injector/ReadMe.md (edited)

plastic-hub/products

Contribute to plastic-hub/products development by creating an account on GitHub.

1

Badass. Thanks @Timberstar.

You're welcome

I hope i can get some visibility for this method, it's a great cheap way to experiment with injection moulding

@Timberstar : awesome, thanks a lot - looks like we need an onearmy-howto exporter

12:31 PM

@Ve Lxr , yeah - that's in theory, I can't tell whether this Sheet was made for single phase or 3phase motors. There is lots of things which can go wrong, motor too old/damaged or start/run capacitors missing (for single phase). Another thing which seem to happen a lot too is that the blades are dull or not optimized for cutting (will post a picture today).

Yeah,the eternal difference between theory and pratic! But sure that with your help, i will solve that!

what you wanna shred ?

12:48 PM

I am sure if you add a run capacitor you might have some more success with what you have, assuming the motor is ok. (edited)

12:50 PM

you can also take 5-8 blades out just, well and build a wall somehow

Prediction is not always perfect

(edited)

@Leendert , still did't get the reamer so I tried the poor man custom drill (expensive 12mm drill = ending up in 12.2 again). However, I grinded the drill on the lathe and it made awful holes (bumps of 0.1+ everywhere); but at least I've got it to make 11.8mm holes -might be ok for heat paste and non commercial builds. With the drill attachment & boring bar I could manage to clean it out nicely to 11.85, perfect fit when you plug the cartridge heater at 250degc. I keep posting all sheetpress related here : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/howto/sheetpress/cartridge_heater/hole/drilling/thumb.md Still wondering what to do about the rails. .. (edited)

@Jonatan | NL : I tried your variant, works somehow but leaves a heck of bumps :-

Rip

6:46 PM

another thing one can try still to dress the drill in a CNC spindel (3k RPM +) and move it a long a diamond wheel grinder

(edited)

Anyone has a full copy of ISO 14005:2019 (https://www.iso.org/standard/72333.html) ? Just got so far through 9001, at least knowing now what to do & what we can't do

To Yesterday’s post, mount a bench grinder on the lathe saddle. I got some great results, but grinding dust all over the lathe bed is a pain.

that sporty enough for you@Deleted User ?

8:59 AM

might be good for doing the screws too..

I tried the benchgrinder addon but mine was to weak and slow. @Timberstar we had a great discussion in the forum btw. : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/adding-compression-to-wood-auger/. Also, keeping the drill on diameter that way seems really difficult, it´s about < 0.1 tolerances, the grinder turns out really violent.

@Deleted User https://blog.rectorsquid.com/linkage-mechanism-designer-and-simulator/

dave

Linkage Mechanism Designer and Simulator

yeah, it's in my toolbox and in the library since long

6:01 PM

at the end I did fall in love with solid works mates

Hiya Guys I need some advice please I've been given a small shredder as a prototype (should be finished early next week) I need to get hold of an extrusion machine to make 3d filament I want to supply as many people that are making free PPE during this crises with the filament they need and I'm guessing lots of advice, I have enough plastic for now and I also have the agreement of my local council to give me all of the suitable plastic they get for free where is the best place to go?

you will not get printable filament for 3d printers out of a PP shredder and some DIY extruder

@ChrisHunnisett https://www.filabot.com/

Filament Maker - Recycle Filament for Any 3D Printer

3D Filament Extruders, make filament from almost any plastic. Allowing you to 3D Print with the materials you use for production. Recycle plastic into filament creating a closed loop recycling system.

9:52 PM

I'm gonna just post this now every time filament is mentioned (edited)

How do I respond to conversation that happened a few days ago?

PP yesterday 10:18. I think I got mixed up here. Grinder on lathe is only for fine material removal, really wouldn’t do this to turn a auger flute, that’s too much. But only for a finishing job if I couldn’t do anything else. Is anyone cutting these augers out of tool steel on lathe and then heat treating? And is anyone interlocking LHT and RHT augers to increase pump pressure?

9:47 AM

This prevents material just going round auger and forces it to travel

@ChrisHunnisett is this what you are looking for: https://preciousplasticmadrid.com/hilo3d/ we give 2 filament manufacturers, sorry page is only in Spanish.

admin

hilo3d

@Wint3rsmith i think @Deleted User mght be the only one so far to actually make the auger screw, and no twin-screws haven't featured yet

2:20 PM

@Wint3rsmith The Precious Plastic screw is available from Robotdigg https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine

Precious Plastic design single screw and barrel for extrusion machi...

Plastic recycling extrusion or injection Precious Plastic advocates plastic recycling. Precious Plastic created machines...

I am designing quite a few things at the same time at the moment and I would like to share it in a numerical format. A bit too rusty to go back to industrial drawing after 20+ years. So what platform would you use? I am Linux user, I have looked at some CAD but I find these softwares a bit bahh. I see that some people use blender with addons. Because I have done a lot of 3D viz etc I thought I might be more comfortable using that. Thoughts?

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I like Sketchup for roughing out ideas, then Solidworks to build proper models in order to produce technical drawings. A lot of peope are using Fusion 360 these days, seems to be most popular. (edited)

5:05 PM

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I recently had a play with OnShape which is web based software operating quite similar to Solidworks, and you can collaborate with others on the same model in real time which is cool

@Timberstar I can't see any Linux thing? I might seem rude but I don't think developing something entirely on non open source platforms is constructive.

just reporting what i do

5:10 PM

sketchup will run on linux

5:11 PM

https://youtu.be/l2wSXfnxMf0

Sherry

Installing Sketchup on Linux

get a windows workstation

, i am sad too to see my mint spinning up only for admin stuff

- tried too all : fusion in a windows vm (it's ok til some point. since the CAD stuff is already super tedious, you wanna get through it fast as possible, to me, SolidWorks is just the best, I started pimping CAD, VR, Game stuff 25 years ago ..

5:12 PM

actually all the 'usual' PP work runs best on windows I am afraid, photoshop, illustrator,... name it.

It is just that we are discussing open sourcing and I am never going back to Windows or Apple. First because I cannot afford it and also because I want to work with my machines and not fiddle. But I understand people get used to stuff, a bit sad

5:13 PM

So no liking of blender?

yeah me too but Linux folks created this mess themselves, it's brutal hard to make gui apps (edited)

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland ive never tried blender, would be interested

I just found this: https://www.blender3darchitect.com/blender-2-8-for-technical-drawing/ I did try sketchup when it came out, pretty cool stuff I can try to be a guinea pig. I looked at licencing, Onshape looks awesome but $1500 per year

Blender 2.8 for technical drawing • Blender 3D Architect

hmm i dont remember having to pay for onshape... think i just created a a free account

5:19 PM

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland there was a uk guy here yesterday who runs an organisation giving out free computers to people who need them, im sure you could demonstrate a strong case

I am reading more stuff about blender and it is like super debate about should it be used...

if you were prepared to go against your principles re. windows

5:20 PM

oh why?

Well on one hand everything can be coded in it, on the other one it is just a polygon modeller so without addons etc it is dimensionless and that kind of stuff.

5:24 PM

yeah me too but Linux folks created this mess themselves, it's brutal hard to make gui apps

@Deleted User I don't find it hard if you use a high level language like python. or use paraview as a base?

5:24 PM

if you were prepared to go against your principles re. windows

@Timberstar that is a thing which will not happen. I cry every time I have to use Wine to run an old software

2

yeah sketchup also i think is polygon based although recent/pro versions can export as solids. Solidworks is the real deal

5:30 PM

@ChrisHunnisett is the guy with the computers organisation

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland : yeah, that might be possible - still, yet, Linux share is too small to consider. Last time we did, doing 3D apps/games on Lnx is brutal; you want a good C++ API, OpenGL alone is also not a piece of cake, anyway - No idea how is it now, I dropped the ball 10 year ago

5:31 PM

but I remember the times of stackless python, blazing fast

I have a cluster at home so speed is not the limit. it seems to me that the VTK engine which powers most research softwares I use are the go to but it seems like it is not used by the software I read about... I am a bit dispirited. Might have to allocate a few proc to a VM

luckily there is still whisky in Scotland I just saw that .Net still exists on Windows!!!!

----- At the end folks, take whatever you want, as long you're on time with good results, as in software, take the best tool to get it done

either of you guys into php? im looking at phpBB as an open source forum but im way out of my depth, my programing experience ended with Basic 1.1 and HTML

I still love it, you could say it become a real programming language, just that phpBB made little use of it, it works but internally it's a desaster

id like to see a forum exclusively for machine building, i havent used the main PP forum since my password stopped working, and i get frustated with the topic-sliding that happens here on discord

I am with discourse, code and team exactly how i need it : https://www.discourse.org/team.html, needs a major work to simplify the interface but that's about it

1

5:45 PM

I blame covid19 that I didn't make progress on it , and Dave of course

(edited)

5:46 PM

anyways, still have to think how PP@next has to work for me and come back to all after

5:48 PM

there are actually weeks you could spend on it, from CAD software, user lifecycle, PR, insane

i would be thinking of it as something parallel to PP rather than 'next', although i know you only mean that as shorthand...

yeah, indeed, turns out as the DIY/edu app module in the big picture

kinda yea, but i think that's fine, that's what they set out to achieve really and actually it's working, just not quite how machine builders would like, we are not really the target audience

depends on how you design the flows, ideally we're all part of a big loop

there is a slight mismatch when it comes to the philosophy, doing everything for free is fantastic but very limiting, it's impossible to develop beyond a certain point running on goodwill alone (edited)

more a discussion for #meta

sure

6:00 PM

meanwhile i'm still trying to find the formula for the relationship between force in/out and link lengths for a 5 point double toggle clamping mechanism. somewhat out of my depth there too but im learning... (edited)

but yeah, the community in all their facets should be exposed as a whole organ, services, trainings programs, name it

6:01 PM

if done right, there is easily up to 10M or more per year in it, looking around since long now

found this fairly advanced diy injection machine- had to ue waybackmachine to get it- remember frames?

https://web.archive.org/web/20061007021315fw_/http://www.users.qwest.net/~kmaxon/page/side/mold_mach_137.htm

1

lol, can´t download all the files yet, but that made me lol : "The file itself is 125Kbytes and should download pretty quick."

1

it looks pretty wacky to me, maybe not very useful but it does have water cooling which might be interesting...

is, always was, never tried yet, off the shelf CPU water cooling set look tempting, 100e

hmmmm good idea...

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Re 3D Software : As a fellow lover and believer in open-source, I feel your pain. I've used FreeCAD for a while and it was enough for what I was doing, but it probably as limits and can be hard on the edges. I believe you could also use Blender, I personnally use it for more "organic" modeling so I don't know to which extent you can use it for CAD-stuff. But with the 2.8 update there's definitely room for a more "broad" usage. I guess it all depends on what you want to do. (Heavy mecanical work vs rough sketches) (Also for 2D drawings I did use LibreCAD, but didn't played around enough to have an opinion)

2

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland TinkerCAD for simple stuff perhaps...

1

Hello! I am wanting to purchase some extruded beams to make some things with, I am based in the UK, anyone making any that I could order? thanks!

#deleted-channel You can find more local people there I think

@Lazy_Turtle Good shout

1

Hello someone has the model of the blades for the shredder, I can not find it

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland , I guess you've seen this already but just in case, here are good answers why blender get's you nowhere : https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/53293/is-blender-actually-useable-for-engineering, it's a destructive polygon editor, nurbs at best

Is blender actually useable for engineering?

A moving design would be the final goal, but first I need to build complex shapes based on geometry as 3D modeling for engineering. Does blender have a work tree where you can rearrange the order of

1

@carlos24 https://cutt.ly/starterkit-shredder

@Timberstarthank you so much

3

I am new to the site so I hope "build" is the correct place to ask these questions. Ok, thinking of a continuous flow extruder screw system with a Hydraulic drive motor , feeding a sheet die 20" wide by 1/2" thick . question 1) do I need a larger diameter extruder screw to keep up with the volume of material ? (ie: 1",2.5",4.5") question 2) Can I use the Hydraulic drive direct to extruder screw and control speed by a manual vale reducing hyd fluid or will the extruder screw build to much pressure requiring it to be geared down and if so what gear ratio is generally used?

@GH_2 my tests of sheet extrusion with the PP extruder with a 4kW + gearbox were already limited around 15cm wide, 6mm thick. So I think you need indeed more volume. I have no experience with the hydraulic, I just know that my screw rotates around 70 RPM. re 3D software I have started on FreeCAD thanks for all the advice re cooling system

1

7:04 PM

I am using plumbing techniques for the static part of the conveyor belt

7:06 PM

at the moment I plan to extend the length of the cooling pipe to have a better heatsink and more contact with water. At the moment too much heat focuses on not enough surface to dissipate. I am also doing some tests of brazing pipes into the moulds to cool them. The idea is to use standard plumbing technique to setup your cooling system. Not all exactly cheap but if you want something efficient, it is hard to get actual cheap stuff (edited)

This is the die profile I want to use except 1/2" thick. I had planed to drill cooling tubes in the last few inches of the die as the material is pushed out the back than a water bath box if needed to cool material down further. (edited)

7:38 PM

I know faster RPM gives more volume to , but how much faster then the 70rpm can you turn and still get enough heat to get a good melt? (if you have trier before)

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland ideas for your cooling issue on the "cheap" (my area...lol) try to go to a scrap yard and find some thick 1"+ aluminum plate use the wide surface area to screw down to your current set up , on the top side of the Alum block drilling long wise across it , then tap the holes and use hose barbs to connect water lines for faster cooling , also if you have the room between cooling tube you can machine in fins like on a aircraft cylinder this gives you additional cooling surface to dissipate the heat even faster (edited)

hello I need some help with the electronic components

10:52 PM

someone use arduino with the shredder

10:53 PM

?

Why all of these different orientations?

2:53 AM

Some of these don't visually make sense.

different possible configurations of twin shot moulding, just thought it might be interesting...

I see. It is interesting.

2:55 AM

It looks like you could intertwine filament.

2:56 AM

Oh wait. Moulding. Okay I'm starting to see it now. I thought they were extruders.

nah sorry was just a cool image i found, not related to the previous poster

Hello how are you doing? My name is Ulises, I am from Argentina and I recently started building my plastic extruder. I have problems finding the necessary parts for my machine and I wanted to consult you, where I could buy within the country or in neighboring countries. If anyone could contact me, I would be very grateful. A coordinated greeting and thanks.

This is the die profile I want to use except 1/2" thick. I had planed to drill cooling tubes in the last few inches of the die as the material is pushed out the back than a water bath box if needed to cool material down further.

@GH_2 You will have extreme pressure in your die, anything under 2" forget it. What you can do is to use T bars etc to reinforce your die and save on aluminium. Not easy. I am working on other ways of making dies at "affordable" prices. It is far from ready but I will keep the channel posted

12:47 PM

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland ideas for your cooling issue on the "cheap" (my area...lol) try to go to a scrap yard and find some thick 1"+ aluminum plate use the wide surface area to screw down to your current set up , on the top side of the Alum block drilling long wise across it , then tap the holes and use hose barbs to connect water lines for faster cooling , also if you have the room between cooling tube you can machine in fins like on a aircraft cylinder this gives you additional cooling surface to dissipate the heat even faster

@GH_2 I think I see what you mean but if you could draw it, I think I could understand better. I am planning to ram small lengths of copper pipes into the mould and braze it in. Then I can use standard plumbing connections. Idea is to stay into standard dimensions so the design is adaptable in all countries. Ideally in the future I will have a pressurized circuit.

Привіт, хтось може скинути чертєжи для створення щредеру першого типу?

@O P A S N UA : https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Я скачую, але не можу розібратися де є чертєжи деталей які потрібно вирізати на лазері.

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland well this is just a rough drawing to help get the idea I use a mill to cut fins in alum but you could use a router with 1/4" endmill bit , you could stack what ever thickness aluminum plate you find at scrap yard (thicker the better) aluminum draws and dissipates the heat fast and the fins provide more surface are to cool, the water tube allow you to circulate cool water through a radiator or tank again for faster cooling

1

ok I see. I have checked with my plumber friend + available parts and in my case I could not find a barb that was the exact diameter I wanted. Also it is more likely to leak. I will spend £4 more per connection and go for brazed pipe to compression and 3/4" to eurocone and the pipe to my manifold

@O P A S N UA https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-mix/tree/master/3.%20Build%20the%20machines/1.%20Shredder/Blueprints/00_shredder%20laserfiles%20(V2.1)

ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-mix

Starterkit for a Mix Workspace. Contribute to ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-mix development by creating an account on GitHub.

5:39 PM

3. Builde the machines / 1. shredder / Blue prints / funny folder name = 00_shredder laserfiles (V2.1)

@Deleted User (edited)

7:12 PM

bigger bore, shorter stroke, larger shot size

7:12 PM

and better to keep the outsides of the tin can on

7:14 PM

full barrel heating in the oven

7:17 PM

@Deleted User various small updates to add, do i edit the original .md doc or go straight into the new one?

good question, I prefer keeping old versions

yea ill do it there first and then we can see about transferring over

7:34 PM

holy sh**, arbor wins

needs some kind of jig to make it quick to line up

7:45 PM

i reckon it doesnt get much more lo-fi than this though

Hi everyone! Can any of you tell me what is the size / specs for the wood drill in the first version of the extrusion machine? And what kind of motor should I look for (cheap)?

Hi everyone! Is There anybody able to laser cut parts from the v4 version of the shredder?

ok I see. I have checked with my plumber friend + available parts and in my case I could not find a barb that was the exact diameter I wanted. Also it is more likely to leak. I will spend £4 more per connection and go for brazed pipe to compression and 3/4" to eurocone and the pipe to my manifold

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I have drilled and tapped several pieces of 1" aluminum plates before, the threaded brass hose barbs with some T-tape does pretty good job without leaks but you could tig weld in a alum tube to replace the barb if you want to spend a little extra

1

@Deleted User Hi, how are you? I am back with questions... If you remember, you advice me to add a run capacitor to my motor... So... here we are... which one to choose??

3:43 PM

3:44 PM

Hello everybody . We are engaged in the production of equipment for plastic processing. https://yadi.sk/i/BDkK3o9tFDOhWA Link to the video about our production. We deliver to all over the world, we are in Krasnodar. Here is the first time and not always convenient. 89370035993 WhatsApp. A set of 4 machines 350 thousand rubles. We are engaged in 1.5 years. Dave's equipment has been improved. And exceeded productivity. Delivery is paid separately. But everything is negotiated. Watching where. .

55.mp4

View and download from Yandex.Disk

@Ve Lxr : https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Motor_Capacitor_Selection.php

Merci! Je vais lire ca!

Hello, I wanted to ask if anyone knows what material are the blades of the shredder 2.1, thanks.

@Joaquin hey! Before v4 stainless was popular and still an option now, butnypu might look at the metals the new v4 blades are made with, Hardox400/500 (US AR 400/500)

1

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland A purist option for CAD http://solvespace.com/index.pl

@Timberstar not maintained since 2016...

11:47 AM

Anyone has designed a cooling bath? I see the main idea but the link between the cooling plastic and the bath seems tricky (aka messy)

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Check out these guys. I haven't look too close but they seem to have some good designs re cooling.

@NoMorePlastic I think we are missing the link/ name

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland yea freecad looks like the best, you can execute python macros..

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland still on CAD@Lnx?, I tried Solidworks in a VM (VMware), works alright too

yep...https://www.filabot.com/?utm_source=adroll&utm_campaign=strategy&utm_medium=web&utm_content=web

Filament Maker - Recycle Filament for Any 3D Printer

3D Filament Extruders, make filament from almost any plastic. Allowing you to 3D Print with the materials you use for production. Recycle plastic into filament creating a closed loop recycling system.

@NoMorePlastic Thanks, I see it is air cooling and you can maintain tension. I am planning on using water (because I have it installed and not air) and I plan to properly extrude without mould so I can't really use air because of the high mass of plastic. I liked this one where you avoid spending $10000 ;) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RigJNWbyzhQ

Making Stuff

Filament Extruder #8 - Water Bath Update and Test Run

2

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland it was just for other ideas, got to do what works for you and your process.

No worries

1

That's my idea of making an adaptable die where you can change the section geometry you extrude. In grey it is aluminium bars. The holes are for water circulation and are meant to fit standard 22 mm plumbing coper pipe that can be brazed straight in. In blue are brackets in soft steel. My idea is simply to clamp it on the plate of the extruder I have. Limitations are 1 the friction on the aluminium, 2 the cooling being efficient enough 3 the volume of aluminium which might not bee enough to allow shaping the plastic. I need a 60 degrees drop and I am not sure yet how much I can dissipate the heat yet. Doing some tests on single small blocks at the moment. It is possible that you may want a a thin sleeve in contact with the plastic with direct contact with the water in the back with grooves on the edge of the blocks. But to keep it water tight I think it is challenging...

1

Hello everyone. I am new to the community and I am buying the parts to build an Extruder Pro, but in the Starter Kit I can't see nowhere about the relationship that the gear motor must have, or about what minimum or maximum speed it can run. I’ll appreciate your help about this topic Aurelio

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro Does this help?

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

2:59 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-JFVo6BDA4&t=3s

davehakkens

How to build a pro plastic extrusion machine

Many thanks Ryoma and Dave. I had not seen it. I am very pleased for your help

1

Hi, anyone who wants a solid auto-reverse via current sensor for v3/v4, I just tested the GRI8-01, works flawless and it's super safe and easy to install

Sensor : https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32880978350.html?aff_platform=aaf&sk=AYNZbMb&aff_trace_key=2e1af578187f4dcaaac62650643c39e3-1588321317009-02903-AYNZbMb&dp=haj.camillesonthehill.co&terminal_id=046e4cef9ca74f8bbe2ef13649c4bd2f&tmLog=new_Detail&aff_request_id=2e1af578187f4dcaaac62650643c39e3-1588321317009-02903-AYNZbMb You can btw. also use this for detecting jamming on your extruder, in this case it's even simpler because you can trip the contactor this way without any Arduino. (edited)

11:07 AM

11:08 AM

Let me update the Academy docs, so no one needs to f$% around with sh$%$ hall-sensors and the like :-)) (edited)

Hey everyone I’m new here looking for some info. I currently have started a small plant in Ireland and I am looking at building the v4 shredder where can I get the laser cutting drawings or are they available? Any help is much appreciated

‍♂️

Hey I tried to send the file but Discord does not support. What can I do?

@Bezba : you want to build shredder ´pro´ or ´basic´ ? (edited)

8:49 PM

in both cases you can do it with 220V, basic : 3Kw pro : 4-5Kw

8:53 PM

I guess we have to answer this til v5, sometime in 2032

8:56 PM

@greasetrap : https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download ?

@Deleted User already Bukit, awaiting power, basic version

9:12 PM

*built

2-3 kw for basic use is fine

Biggest that appears to be available in Australia is 2.2kw but now I'm questioning about if 3ph with inverter is better than 1ph??

9:17 PM

I've found this local supplier but not sure what to buy. https://cononmotor.com.au/

weboost_admin

Electric Motor | Electric Motor Melbourne | Buy Electric Motor Online

As a qualified electric motor Melbourne supplier, you can buy electric motor online at Conon Motor with confidence. We’ve already dealt with 10,000+ customers—— Conon Motor

2.2kw is fine but jams occasionally, you want then auto-reverse to get rid of the pain

9:18 PM

there is a detailed update from us soon about

I did find a seller on Ebay, he offered vfd for 3ph motor but it seemed to require 24A input, obviously I only have 10A at household power points

9:21 PM

OK thanks, I understand that, will be upgrading to pro once I have money and world resumes shipping!! Maybe next year

2.2KW 3Phase motors run on single phase via VFD (inverter), max. 10 Amps (edited)

9:24 PM

the beauty of 3Phase

I understand that but many of them say Max draw is 13+A?? This I can't guarantee

9:30 PM

VFD quite expensive so what's the benefit of going that way?

Max draw, possible, count more on 7- 10 A amps as average

9:30 PM

VFD, we pay around 100 - 150E on ebay

https://cononmotor.com.au/product/2-2kw-3hp-1400rpm-shaft-28mm-electric-motor-single-phase-240v-car-hoists-cement-2/ Like that??

2.2kw 3HP 1400rpm shaft 28mm Electric motor single phase 240v

Check our 2.2kw 3HP 1400rpm shaft 28mm Electric motor single phase 240v car hoists cement at Conon Motor

that´s single phase how it looks, the VFD gives you lots of safety, soft start and paves the way for auto-reverse

That's probably about same price as here in AU$ but before I spend I want to be sure things will work

9:32 PM

OK thanks.

motor should be per KG, around 100-200e, the gearbox is the expensive part.

9:33 PM

single phase = more amps

Hmm really?? Didn't think so. EBay seller has motors with gearbox for reasonable price.

i don´t know, we pay around 560E for the entire thing, new - good unit (edited)

The website I'm looking at doesn't have search function aarrgghh

9:34 PM

560€ is quite a lot of money!!!

i know, we do this for a living, can´t risk much

Got a link I can have a look at to understand specs??

9:35 PM

It's not my living, yet

not really, it´s from a local trader :

No website??

nah, that´s not how it works here, 2.2Kw, 3P, 1:30 , 220V, i can post the plate in a moment

OK ta

9:37 PM

What's the output RPM? I've had differing attitudes about what speed is best Dave's original video inferred 70RPM but other people have suggested as low as 20 is better??

1480RPM / 30, perfect for shredding, with VFD at +/- 50% of it, you can run the extruder as well

If your morrow starts at 1400RPM then 1:30 gearbox reduces to 46 or so??

9:39 PM

OK 1480...

9:40 PM

Extruded is next build. Separate motor & gearbox but same vfd at same time??

9:40 PM

*motor damn phone

9:40 PM

*extruder!

9:41 PM

It's 5:40am here, I should be sleeping, more...

9:41 PM

But I appreciate your input

9:47 PM

Looks like this website only has motors that increase to 2800rpm once they become 3ph and 2.2+kw. Very frustrating

1

1:18 AM

idea for a 5 point x 8 toggle clamping mechanism (edited)

Badass.

probaby not useful, just playing around..

useful as a timer for extrusion. you can make a measured slug of plastic from your extrusion machine with htis. replace the pump motor with a relay and use to switch the motor on the extrusion machine.

1

Hello There! I am totally new.... I live in Madagascar and I know I start from nothing and I live in a country where quite everything is missing... though I want to build up the whole machine ( sorry I am french and I am a girl soooo, i will use my own language!!

), the device that crunch the plastic and the other device that does the transformation... I start from scratch ..... PLEASE could you help me out thank you

@bubblefrog Si jamais dans #deleted-channel tu peux trouver le lien vers un discord francophone que tu peux rejoindre.

@Ley Klussyn yes !! merci excellent

1

Hi! Where can I find help with my shredder electricity?

probably in here

1:13 AM

if you actually ask a question

1

Hi, can anyone provide a link to a company that supplies the V4 extruder pro screw? It needs to be as per the precious plastic drawing

https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/doe-het-zelf-en-verbouw/gereedschap-machine-onderdelen-en-toebehoren/m1541223070-plastic-extrusion-screw.html?c=3c1f5dcc18d02a99040ca8de656940d2&previousPage=lr

3:31 AM

This is from the big sale

3:31 AM

of PPHQ

Hi everyone! Im Luis Filipe, from Brazil. i´m new here in precious plastic and im totaly in love with this comunity

you all gave so much hope

. I´ll take the opportunity to introduce my project and ask for a little help if you dont mind. Me and my friend are planning to produce plastic sheets in order to sell it to joiners and offer them an alternative material option and create a circular process with them. So we gona build a shredder in a bike and we need to buid a sheetpress. My question is: we want to produce sheets of different thickness, is the sheetpress able to do that? we would love to talk to someone who has already built one

. Thank you all for the attention

Hello, nice to meet you

I've never worked with a sheetpress and I don't know how, but I know that the sheetpress is able to do that.

4:18 AM

From the accademy

wow, thats nice! thank you so much @Lazy_Turtle

4:20 AM

you know where i can find more informattion like that about the sheetpress?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpress

4:21 AM

Watch this too if you haven't: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3OctDe3xVk

thats perfect. i´ll watch the video. thanks again!

1

@michael_makes_ : do we need to test the sheet press for real before shipping, we made some improvements of course. The problem is that we actually don't have 400V/3p anymore available, so we can just check mechanics. I guess as long we wire it up correctly it should be fine. We also install set screws to flatten out the press plates. Was also wondering to wrap the completely up with metal sheets ( & door) to assist better fume extraction. Is there an extraction fan you can recommend; for now we plan to install something in the 800W range, to make sure.

1:41 PM

Perhaps you have a list of things which can go wrong...

1:43 PM

The customers also asked for 6 months warranty,... finger cross, shipping a new product makes my heart beat high

Hi everyone! I'm new to the Precious Plastic community and volunteer for a nonprofit starting a plastic recycling space. Does anyone have any experience with the v4 Shredder Pro? There are very few videos available that show the machine in action and I'd like to get a better sense of its performance before investing several thousand dollars. Thanks!

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro　This might help

@Lazy_Turtle Thanks! I've looked through the reported specs and videos provided by Precious Plastic. What I'd love to get is some feedback from a real user or videos of the machine operating in a real shredder space to get a better idea of the operator's experience, any unexpected limitations of the machine, common pitfalls, etc.

Ok. I am pretty sure some friendly folks will help you soon.

@rbercich : hi, as alternative you can seek for an industrial shredder; you might get twice the performance, safety, ergonomy,... as v4 for the same price, indeed. The downside would be that you can't get so easily replacement parts since you often won't have the drawings, etc... but also that can be done by any near machine shop relative cheap .. Also operator wise, we have a strong community, developing restlessly extensions and upgrades for most machines, but you have to ask for it, PP central is usually too busy publishing any such updates, issues, warnings, etc..

(edited)

6:54 PM

For reference: industrial shredders start in the 2k range, put another 1k in it to refurbish it if needed.

6:55 PM

There is also a generic update soon for the electronics, adding safety and comfort.

@Deleted User That's a great suggestion. That was the first road we went down when we started this project. I looked into purchasing a used shredder or granulator. The issue that we ran into is that anything above ~3HP runs off of three-phase power and our building only has single-phase power. We looked at stepping up our main voltage and using a phase converter to power one of these used machines, but the transformer and phase converter (plus labor for an electrician to make sure everything is done safely/to code) was expensive. All told, it looks like the least expensive option is going to be to purchase a shredder pro with a phase converter already included, which will cost about $6,000.

@rbercich : You might be ok using a VFD (enables to run 3p motors on single phase) and a 4-5Kw motor for this machine, 99% sure. _ (edited)

8:43 PM

#machine-builders : Just out of curiosity, we do document production since a while. Do you think that those 'mini howtos' need more text (no problem) ? I usually try to get around, just as in yt videos ; I am not much in for talking (lol) : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/arbor_injection/wheel_handle/index.html; also folks considering doing this steps might just need an idea ... (edited)

8:44 PM

here's more of those : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howtos/

@rbercich we converted our workshop to 3 phase just for that. It cost us a couple of kidneys and the electrician took the rest. However it is incomparable. We have a 11 kW granulator from 1996 and I regret we didn't have the money for an actually bigger one...

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Thanks so much for the info! We're looking at a bill of at least $10,000 to install a three-phase line in our building. What's worse is that our energy company will only permit one-phase or three-phase; not both. So if we were to install three-phase power we would need a phase converter for all of our existing equipment that runs on single-phase

(edited)

12:59 AM

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I'd be interested to know what your throughput is with you 11kW granulator? I know it depends on the type and thickness of plastic, but on average how much plastic can you process per hour? (edited)

Hi there, I'm in the process of building the shredder pro, and was wondering if anyone can tell me how well the mesh works. The pp website said there was a tradeoff as compared to having a granulator as far as throughput is concerned, but has anyone experienced jamming or problems recirculating the plastic? Any info would be useful. Thanks!

@rbercich That's not really an issue you can use each phase individually, no need of any conversion. However I recommend some sort of balance in terms of usage between the 3 or your provider may complain. We have applied for a grant to get the 3P power in our workshop which helped a bit. It cost us £3500 then we paid the electrician to put a new meter box and then the fuse boxes and no be cheap with it. We redid entirely the whole wiring. You may just need to add the wiring for 3phase if your building is modern. Regarding the shredder we don't really calculate in hours of work It is faster than the extrusion, that I know. The high power is to be able to granulate thick plastics. It is not a race

2 new machine builder howtos added :-)

Arbor injection gear : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/arbor_injection/gear/index.html
Couplings : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/couplings/index.html was wondering whether I should keep doing that - it's kinda too simple, dunno ...

4

Hi comunity! has anyone thought of using an industrial electric oven to melt the plastic? I've seen some videos where the plastic is melted in a regular electric oven. I was thinking that it could be a cheaper alternative than sheetpress but I worry about the smoke. What do you think?

is there some open source Arduino based thermostat?

11:23 PM

drill a small hole, insert temp probe

11:24 PM

attach to switch (outlet or add to internal stuff?)

11:24 PM

should be doable?

this is the starter kit shredder. does anybody have the blueprints to this particular machine. I have searched the downloaded files but the blueprints for the starter-kit shredder where no where to be found. in the starter kit file the shredder pro was in that category. i don't know why. if one of you have the blueprint that will be very helpful. send me an email at 12flachner@gmail.com. Thank you

@Felix Lachner ;) its in de starterkit for mix workshop. https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-mix/releases/download/V1.1/starterkit-mix.zip

Hello everyone, I heard about the point in Eindhoven I am interested in Machines, what tipe of machines do you have it? It is possible send to Mexico?

send to where in mexico?

9:06 PM

also shipping is rough with COVID-19 so that may effect things for the next few months to a year, still look into it though

@wiely (NL GLD) thankyou.

1

Hello everyone. I've bought a shredder v2 from the Bazaar, it hasn't arrived yet, but am trying to figure out if the electric motor I have will work well or not.

11:42 AM

It's a Sew Eurodrive, 0.18kw with an 81.64:1 gearbox. I couldn't find the specs on the exact motor (ET63L) but the ER63L has 1.22Nm, so I'm assuming with the gearbox I'll have 99.6Nm.

11:43 AM

1350 rpm on the motor, 17 rpm after the reduction.

@ryanstev , welcome to the great PP Discord server, the support team is currently unavailable but let me try : you need at least 2-3 Kw and a gearbox at 1:30 to have around 70RPM at 200-300 Nm, ideally 3Phase motor via VFD on single phase motor, 220V. If you´re unsure, please browse the reference section in the library (https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/shredder/ ´Will it shred´) and on the academy which seems to recommend 400V but you don't need that. (edited)

On that note, i assume it makes sense to get a 3 phase motor with VFD than a single phase motor with VFD? (I would want a VFD in each case to control speed etc)

@0502 : yes, always, you burn also way less amps this way, the VFD comes also with lots of extra safety and optimization functions and adding a much desired auto-reverse is a piece of cake.

1

Is there a system like this, but not for huge amps, just for ease of use (ie no wires for power?):

3:13 PM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_busbar_system

Electrical busbar system

Electrical busbar systems (sometimes simply referred to as busbar systems) are a modular approach to electrical wiring, where instead of a standard cable wiring to every single electrical device, the electrical devices are mounted onto an adapter which is directly fitted to a ...

3:13 PM

supposedly din rails are just for grounding:

3:13 PM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_rail

DIN rail

A DIN rail is a metal rail of a standard type widely used for mounting circuit breakers and industrial control equipment inside equipment racks. These products are typically made from cold rolled carbon steel sheet with a zinc-plated or chromated bright surface finish. Althoug...

3:14 PM

also OpenRack exists, but is VERY extra, and is server rack sized

3:14 PM

and is on the left and right side

awesome, we're getting closer to the ultimaker of PP

if there isn't an open source standard (or any for that matter), i may plot one out and post it on the ose wiki

3:21 PM

need another rail standard like open rack, but for mounting stuff to walls

3:21 PM

was plotting "makerspace in a 40ft imc" type stuff

3:21 PM

drive a semi-truck to a town and they suddenly have a makerspace

3:22 PM

(or anything really for that matter)

3:22 PM

PP did make that container recycling center

how about the prices, I can imagine this doubles the material bill. Cables, wiring, etc.. however do last quite a while but still alright. A medi core shredder cabinet right takes around 100-300 bucks in components alone, and a half day work. This might push users over the edge though - nice option though nonetheless. If you want it really pro, it's more like 1000+ E; auto-plunging system, solar, etc.. not incl. For the extrusion not much different, with all features, rather the double.

no definetly lol, i go very overboard with my designs (perfectionism is a blessing and a curse), though you wouldn't need the HUGE thick bars if you weren't running mains through it (like for a led strip driver setup)

mh, what matters is that vendors can get this next door, with invoice and in budget levels. I feel already quite nervous selling 1/3 over a good price/value ratio; PP is quite a niche despite growing interest from the SMEs

no definetly, my plots are not the "main way to go". What has been done by others is MUCH more practical

3:55 PM

no debate there

3:56 PM

any way to wind the motors ourselves and make a 3d printed gearbox, that seems like a large portion of the cost

right, that's more or less already kinda deluxe : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/controlbox/wiring/index.html | still looking for a way to clean/wire the front panel connections better

PCB's can be milled with a 3D Printer like CNC router (can even use a rotary tool (dremel etc) based system)

first we need to establish a kinda standard; still a year away since everyday new things, ideas popup but it's settling so far

standard electronics layout?

this, plus addon connectivity via RS485 | control panels seem also need a sort of cable/wire interface (LEDS, buttons, ...)

4:01 PM

not sure we're on the same page right now but go ahead

Page is terribly layed out (cough cough Macrin!), and it may not be perfectly fit to this, but see:

4:01 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Universal_Controller

Universal Controller

4:02 PM

also this is barely used yet but also check out here:

4:02 PM

http://opencircuitinstitute.org/

yeah, still collecting more info for a next round with Marcin

do we want to explore those "industrial" communication protocols

4:03 PM

think i saw an arduino sheild for one?

cool library though ! thanks

np

4:03 PM

also pcb's can be etched with a 3d printer with a sharpie attached to it

to me it's rs485 - harder to implement but needed in noise environments

i love the connector too

right, have to get back to work, keep moving

lol people doing actual jobs while i lurk here

@Deleted User thought you were gonna take a break this wkend lol

i love your lurking

4:06 PM

@Timberstar : i use the bad weather as excuse to stay home

Hi everyone, I need help to connect the shredder with a cable and a drum switch please help me

5:47 PM

https://youtu.be/ZIDLNfFLKUQ

Élliot Létourneau

Connecting shredder to drum switch

5:47 PM

picture of the drum switch

?

Can you add more details, what the problem is, etc.. ; easier & faster to help you with specifics

8:34 PM

1. Check youtube 2. Have a multimeter to figure out how the switch works (set it into ´resistance´ mode, 0 = contact, -1=no contact), or a flow meter 3. try the connections of the motor to see what you want 4. apply the switch

(edited)

8:40 PM

here to figure how the coils are working : https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=motor+coil+checking

hey everyone! i am wondering if anyone has/knows where to find a more detailed drawing of the shredder v3 parts? The drawings of the pieces that need to be laser cutted like not only the overview but drawings of each piece which i could send in...

10:37 AM

Greetings from sweden

Hello everyone! Friends, there is a problem - where can I get schemes for cutting knives and turning shafts on the v1 PRO shredder?

Helo everyone! I'm working on a project of SheetPress but the cooling time of a sheet is pretty long for a production of 10 sheet a day. I would suggest to design a cooling platen for the cooling press. Do you know anybody who improve the Sheetpress this way.

7:10 PM

The platen could be made of 2 Aluminium plate separated by shim to create cooling zone with gasket to to sink the leaks

Also significant, the drawings are in metric (mm) and the standard dimensions of steel components in North America do not match components in mm. There is a conversion effort to be made. Do you know someone who has converted the drawings for Am.duN.

@Donald_Stim Hi, I've been working on it. building first US batch now and getting files organized to help release.

8:30 PM

but what is Am.duN ?

Hi, Thank for responding. Just a french translation... Steel in North America are rated ASTM, not in mm. We have to invest signifiant amout of hour to get it convert

it hurts me the non-metric units in the USA

8:42 PM

makes math for builds and BOMs hell

8:43 PM

and bit sizes are VERY odd fractions

Yes several our of conversion. We working with SolidWork but some hours to do

any way a Software Tool can be made for Non-Metric to Metric ?

I've got some offsets and common material thicknesses if you want.

8:45 PM

I had to make macros in CAD for the thicknesses and then apply them to groups. I was editing the laser files directly.

8:46 PM

@Eric Lotze I'd love to give up that part of my brain that has to store those conversions.

the real reason for the lizzard people taking over is to have control over all standards in use

so would that make them pro-metric?

I am not familiar with cad systeme. Drawing staff manage it. But if you made some work we will share our result

It has a learning curve, but also look into FreeCAD. It is Open Source, so no need to worry on Licensing.

Lots of extensions available for FreeCAD too. Not super intuitive at the beginning, but well worth diving into.

Actually I have concern about the production rate. 10 sheet a days that is not much. We are planning to extend the heat press to receive the cooling press on the same frame. But we would like to have a water cool platen for the cooling press. Do you know anybody who design some in the past

That would be new, but you can use the existing design in tandem with multiples of molds to increase output, and that's just the start.

It could be only 2 sheet of aluminium plate with spacer to create cooking zone and gasket

8:57 PM

I wondering if Precious Plastic could be interest in designing a prototype to validated the idea

If the output processing table is also a press, you can stack and continue to refine work that is cooling over time as well.

Do you know the cooling time af a sheet. it look like 10 a day

9:00 PM

With a cooking platen you probably produce 3 to 5 by hour

Can be a range of times. Actively cooling we gave large sheets a time of 10-15 minutes, passive cooling 30+ depending on size.

How you actively cooling the sheet into the cooling press

We just used air in an enclosure. Have other ideas, like essentially small AC instead for faster results.

We could just install ventillation over and under the lower and the uper platen. You actually get 15 min as is

do we have to worry about "Rapid Cooling Based Cracks"?

haven't seen that if the material is consistently pressed, and I still don't think this was "rapid" yet.

very true, i'm probably thinking too much of glass and ceramics, the plastic deformation to stress may help?

You are cooling the sheet outside the press. It dosn't finish waving

would a copper tube coil and a basic water cooling setup work well?

I mentioned using the output processing table with a press. just not heated.

You need good contact with the aluminim platen but yes it will be very efficient

I used to make my own paper and we'd press it and then stack a bunch of sheets and press them over night Same concept where drying = cooling

thermal paste + some sort of seal above the paste and tube?

9:15 PM

so my idea is:

9:15 PM

something like this on the plate:

9:15 PM

It will give siginficant result

a heat exhanger, yeah.

then some sort of thermal paste, or soldering below it

9:16 PM

and some sort of plastic/epoxy/insulation cover over it

9:16 PM

fiberglass wool perhaps?

Just plastic Shrink when cooling. If not in a press it will wave pretty much

9:18 PM

not obvious to install the tube through the ribs of the platen

9:19 PM

Rig could be nothed

i will try to make a sketch of my idea. I will post it in a few minutes

rib could be notched

9:31 PM

so i drew it with the piston

9:31 PM

so the metal press plate is on the bottom

9:31 PM

then there is some sort of:

9:31 PM

thermal paste

9:31 PM

thermal epoxy

9:31 PM

or copper soldering/brazing

9:32 PM

Also perhaps clamps can be welded to the sheet and pipe to hold it down?

9:32 PM

then there is some sort of insulator such as: (edited)

9:32 PM

fiberglass insulation

9:32 PM

rock wool

9:32 PM

expanding foam

9:33 PM

then this is all enclosed in a sheet metal covering

9:33 PM

with ports for cold liquid in and hot liquid out

This is pretty good. Keep in mind tha you want your coling time close enough To the eating time. So a pipe every 2 To 3 in should be enough.

10:06 PM

And To be more efficiant you could have 3 to 6 in/out

Quick question - what is the ideal/minimum thickness of laser cut steel that can be used for moulds? I'm looking at making quite a large compression mould which I will be "stick" welding together. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone! I'm building a sheetpress but the cooling cycle seems pretty long. I plan to have fans for the first generation to cool the cooling press platens. Do you have an idea how long it takes to cool a plate in the press if it has 1/4inch, (6mm) for example. I would like to figure out how many plates I can produce per day. Thanks

Hi everyone. We are working to convert SheetPress and its components to the North American Standard. We are going to build a dual system that includes the press and the cooling press on the same frame. We will add fans on the cooling press to speed up the cooling process. However, we are missing some assembly drawings. The ribs of the platens are missing on the assembly drawing. If someone could provide us with the complete assembly it would help us. Working through DXF is not very efficiant. Thanks

@Donald_Stim : let me check this evening, we actually made quite a few more drawings .. (edited)

6:06 PM

https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/products/sheetpress-cell/ (cad/renderings/laser) but that's the 1.30m version, and then is a 3d explorer as well : https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue2b6df80/g/shares/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd96830189e0500fec9e9 (edited)

@Donald_Stim > there is also a version adjusted to Australia : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/v4/sheetpress/variants/aus

6:37 PM

About integrating the cooling press, we're very interested - we tried but gave up - in the design it felt way off already

@Deleted User Thanks for working on the case. I have worked 12 years in the plastics industry and I believe I can come up with a design for water cooled trays eventually.

awesome, we need folks like you !

Anyone knows how to make heatbands & cartridge heaters ? Looks interesting docu for tonight, there goes your AliExpress shipping : https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5759068/ - The real price of shipping

Freightened: The Real Price of Shipping (2016) - IMDb

Directed by Denis Delestrac. With Trevor Hayes, Eric Wiberg. In an audacious investigation, Freightened reveals the mechanics and perils of freight shipment; an all-but-visible industry that holds the key to our economy, our environment and the very model of our civilisation.

1

hi guys, I m trying to Build a Shredder Pro. i did not find the blue prints/dimensions of the blades? anyone has them?

@Deleted User heatbands you looking for. http://www.equiplastinc.com/plaques4.htm

Hi guys! I wonder if the motor of basic schredder can be mono phase. Thank u!

Hello. Where can I find a how-to or instruction to build a sheetpress FULL system? Like separate heating and pressing? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpress

Anyone near or in Central Portugal producing v4 parts for all machines, shredder first.?

#deleted-channel Is the channel for you!

1

nice channel to upgrade your metal work skills, this here takes around a week to get right

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OfN7MaWEE4

shop and math

Red Seal Exam Prep Review Timed 238 Questions

gentlemen! I have problems with the English language, please help - we need drawings of a shredder, I would really like a direct link if there is one.

so so so, somebody wants to download, nah - we don't like that

7:06 PM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

@Deleted User thanks comrade!

I'm just a little confused

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

me too, don't bother

7:12 PM

someone studies the impacts of placing the buy or download button too far away

7:13 PM

wasn't that Amazon who earned 33% more just by placing the f*** button right ?

psychology is really cool

stats too

also there is an engineering degree for crowd managment/design

7:14 PM

forget what it was

i'd love to read that

7:14 PM

Marcin talks always about this - never really understood it

movin my rant on this field to just chatting

interesting, a thermocouple with a sleeve mount design which fits inside the heater band https://www.pmseurope.com/products/thermocouple-ring-type?variant=7525656559667 @Deleted User

Ring (sleeve) Type thermocouple

Ring type thermocouple... fits under Heater band. Fits over nozzle, barrel or end-cap Highly conductive brass and smooth large-contact I.D. provide excellent temperature reading We recommend a heater band 1 to 2 mm larger than normal

2

@Deleted User https://youtu.be/0bwRUf2wCyE i expect youve seen this, but v cool (edited)

TommyGun Machining

How to make a Dog Clutch

no, not really - but cool , ye. happy with the jaw spider couplings, only annoying thing is that they want rubber fillings to avoid grinding. Still have to upgrade to a proper table mill first to make this from good steel. would love to get the Optimum MB4 but somehow the green one here looks more promising for conversion : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFtQrWbbeI0

helo how are you i'm fine! we woyld like to inject that door handle thing not the one that came out now "without hands ", but the first one. Do you know where we can find the drawings for the cnc cutter ? thank you see you

Hey folks - does anyone have any recommendations for min tonnage of an arbor press to cold stamp PP/HDPE?

For the V4 extruder pro, where did people get the clamp/clip bushing from, pn# EXTPRO V1 06. There is nothing mentioned in the BOM list and there are no plans in the download file to make it

You mean V1 05? I found a site but they do only ship to french or dutch companies - the reason we changed this part of the design for something more simple. (edited)

Yes sorry v1 05, the clamp bushing that clamps the screw to the coupling shaft. Where can I find the new design?

@0502 , have a look here : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/machines/lydia-v4.html#build | the website isn't really ready yet but I put the new BOM in there this days (will send you the links via dm just) ; in short you can do this on the go, you just need SKF taper and thrust bearings right off ebay or similar.

12:50 AM

if you need more help let me know, we're doing a few v4 extruders this days - will add more videos/howtos anyways.

@Deleted User thanks for that. I'll keep an eye out for the BOM. They are really helpful since I have zero engineering experience and sending drawings to workshops is easy as long as no design changes are required

right, for a normal machine shop guy this should come quite easy, you design all around the screw, and the motor, quite a no brainer after all.

is that the new version hopper?

ups, not yet

was about to ask you to add it there as well; Lydia-v4's CAD is still a f**** mess

ok yea.. havent started on that yet

yeah, can't wait to see your name here as well

a pity they don't publish the real names anywhere

Sheetpress still coming along slowly..

you gonna start crying extracting all the new laser parts, drawings, ... see you in a week

hehe no i dont mind doing that once ive got a system going (edited)

yeah - I am really wondering we could automate stuff a little more in SolidWorks, I´d love to pull renderings, BOMS in a more elegant way. Apparently it has a script language, let´s see

1:18 AM

Possibly it´s part of PDM

quite a clickery

yea its possible but i think building in complexity is a recipe for trouble, personally i like a nice excel spreadsheet

there´s also quite some human error doing this all manually

thats true

anyways, bed time - see you guys for the next run next week

1

are you making cad for the "roller" station, and press, but not heat station as well?

just the press

ah

1:27 AM

how intense would it be to modify it to make the press, but no heat (cooling) station?

@0502 : I updated the BOM respectively, https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/14AzvGXF-KGlYrc79eihJhmff0n_5hrI9Y-tWOBZUC9M/edit#gid=1334194269&range=B46 | Be aware that you need somebody skilled looking though this.

1

12:59 PM

you also don't need that super expensive worm drive, nor motor, nor VFD - there are cheaper variants out there - doing fine too. I also ditched the screw for robodigg. With some luck you can build this with 1500 E materials (edited)

Nice channel - making injection molds, some tips and tricks there : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7opfb6OXeuw&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR0bRpTus2TxPPZF8MeCY58xBSPTIdywqQaJK4obZc4cm4QaNK3_g4JEtms

JohnSL

Customer Injection Mold Part 3

because near ALL of the industrial automation stuff imo needs

9:29 PM

pneumatic conveyors for pellets / powders (relatively easy to do)

(edited)

9:29 PM

robotic arms + manipulators (these are covered by DeltaX and Skyentific)

(edited)

9:29 PM

conveyor belts (not done yet?)

(edited)

the principle of automation is an important goal which wiill make plastic recycling profitable

Auger conveyors (easy af)

(edited)

9:30 PM

so main need seems to be conveyor belts?

yea actually you guys @Eric Lotze could help quite a lot with your experience at OSC

9:31 PM

moving shredded plastic is identical to grain

9:31 PM

pretty much

9:31 PM

and automating the sheet press will need conveyor belts

9:32 PM

i dont think anyone here has experimented much with those, or grain augers

i would think a nema somthing motor could be used for small slow ones, odrive for bigger ones, main issue is the belt itself

9:34 PM

also those passive rollers would be useful for logistics

9:34 PM

i just haven't seen any work on this, so if anyone else has feel free to share

if you have access to any open source designs invloving conveyor belts i´d be interested to see (edited)

9:36 PM

at some point it will be good to have a conveyor system to feed the sheetpress

exactly!

you guys entering now a uncharted OS terrain - It's excessive dev work, I dropped that 5$ 5V cheap Arduino amazon crap some time ago - getting an auto-plunger 'mature' was quite an adventure, I blew lot's of $$ up there alone. (edited)

9:39 PM

Just saying - even a good light sensor is more in the 100$ range

light sensor?

EMI is also terrible in those systems - you can chase your tail for days with the scope.

9:40 PM

anyway, keep going - we need good ideas.

as in stuff for controlling the belts, i'm confused

9:40 PM

as to what you were referencing?

it's extreme complex fast doing automation dev work alone

9:41 PM

and really $$

not doing it alone

9:43 PM

hard part is herding enough cats...

9:43 PM

granted 2/3 of my work is ideas/plots

we need well written and thought through ideas here at Precious Plastic - yup (edited)

9:45 PM

there is in fact quite a queue already to be taken to the next stage : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/projects that will be there in the next iteration of the library.

9:45 PM

a little more polished

9:48 PM

for sheet related automation, I was pondering with this here a little : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iNd17dBeAc. THere is a slight chance to roll out sheets through such system, if we could feed it right ...

Meanwhile in the Garage

DIY Sheet Metal Bender Machine - Making Metal Rolling Machine in h...

1

one thing

9:48 PM

some of the projects are redundant with ose

9:48 PM

"hydraulic power unit"

9:48 PM

is the powercube

9:48 PM

not bad, good actually there is intrest

9:48 PM

just no need for "redundancy waste"

9:49 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Power_Cube

Power Cube

9:49 PM

i just saw that one, i will do more digging

yeah, the 'steam shop' is back - just with electrons

by PiranhaClamp do you mean a vise ?

no, it's a clamp to hold cloths or so https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/projects/PiranhaClamp/media/preview.JPG

9:52 PM

quite popular among the PPers@fun

9:54 PM

I am sure, we could indeed make cool holding devices with PP tech, for the workshop ,...

oh, i hear them called "clothes-pins"

9:55 PM

makes sense

9:55 PM

good mold

9:55 PM

is there some sort of "thingiverse" like organization for molds?

but let me add the 'discussion' module to all that stuff - for now, here in PP, folks seem short of moulds, ideas ...

all the more reason to make it easier to post/organize them

9:58 PM

also the filament extruder project is semi-redundant with the:

9:58 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lyman_Filament_Extruder

Lyman Filament Extruder

9:58 PM

unless it is more industrial?

somebody said the 'F' word, I am out for today - have fun guys

1

i made a link to that github from the ose filament maker page

1

@Fritz @easymoulds , here comes the motor - guide page : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/motor-guide/index.html | first draft skeleton. If there is another chapter to be added, let me know, happy to add it.

Motor Guide

This is the unofficial Precious Plastic - Library

Hi there, anyone has seen a DC motor with a non-sealed (aka waterproof) terminal box. While troubleshooting my eQuad I realised that it was the case. originally it is fitted on racing bikes but I cannot imagine that it is not sealed. Just wondering if it is not supposed to be fitted with battery grease or something.

Any objections about these recommendations for v3 motor - basic usage ? if not, please add notes here : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eb--Gg3HZ8JGJO1WIvr3lhgKqxundp191kU7_-GANFQ/edit?usp=sharing That goes into the wiki and serves as FAQ - still have to substitute 110V, 380V ...

Google Sheets - create and edit spreadsheets online, for free.

Create a new spreadsheet and edit with others at the same time -- from your computer, phone or tablet. Get stuff done with or without an internet connection. Use Sheets to edit Excel files. Free from Google.

4:44 PM

Was about to add a table for 'professional use' but really don't have the data for

Hi all, I was just wondering if anyone casted the blades of the shredder with aluminum ? Would it do the job correctly ? (edited)

may require heat treating, also aluminum is considered a "soft" metal, but definetly stronger than plastic!

6:37 PM

sounds cool, i'd say try it and document it if you have the resources+ time

I thing I'll try it ! Sounds fun

you familiar with "greensand" or plaster casting?

The thing is, primary material is very expensive where I am (Madagadcar), and of what I know, there are no CNC machines available to cut steel. So I thought about aluminum, since it's easy to cast

6:40 PM

I will

l e m u r s

6:40 PM

also look into this CNC Torch Table, expensive but may be a good long term goal:

6:41 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/CNC_Torch_Table

CNC Torch Table

6:44 PM

semi-wrong link, here is the more recent one:

6:44 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/D3D_CNC_Torch_Table

D3D CNC Torch Table

6:44 PM

the wiki is a bit of a mess lol

Agreed, I've already lost myself lol

i made this to TRY and help:

6:45 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Construction_Sets

Construction Sets

6:45 PM

also i can be a sort of sherpa

Pretty impressive ! But how could you make a hole in a piece with it ? Switching on/off between each cut ?

yeah, it moves in the x and y directions, and the flame on/off, and "flow" is controlled

6:47 PM

also for more simple holes/snaps you can use the "ironworker"

6:47 PM

much more simple

6:48 PM

essentially giant scissors/shears with a hydraulic piston

6:48 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Ironworker

Ironworker

1

So much machine to build, I need another life (and a bigger bank account)

1

same (edited)

6:51 PM

i don't even have a FDM 3D Printer yet...

6:51 PM

or a welder

The price of those significantly dropped, they are very affordable

6:52 PM

I got a used one, a Geeetech Prusa I3 pro B (a chinese version of the DIY Prusa i3) for 100€

6:53 PM

The user got mad because he couldn't make a good print with it (the downside of the DIY I guess)

6:54 PM

It prints OK, but sure it might not be the easiest way to get started and enjoy it right from the beginning

yeah i am dealing with the "poor person can only afford to buy one tool" dilemma

1

6:54 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/The_%22Poor_Can_Only_Afford_to_Buy_A_Tool_Once%22_Issue

The_%22Poor_Can_Only_Afford_to_Buy_A_Tool_Once%22_Issue

6:55 PM

no solution besides saving i guess lol

6:55 PM

i am thinking a proper prusa mk3

That's a beauty

actually, you can do a lot with 10k already, still crappy but ok, you can kick something off

The Ender 3 is a killer too

incl. some income already

i want it to "just work' ie:

6:57 PM

auto leveling

6:57 PM

heated bed

6:57 PM

filament runout detection

6:57 PM

power loss protection

6:57 PM

high quality direct drive extruder + hotend

that's what i had when I started with PP, a 1K lathe, and CNC frankenstein

worth less than 3k in total

being picky i guess

6:58 PM

but also i don't want to buy a cheaper one'

6:58 PM

and spend more on upgrades/fixes/wasted filament

6:58 PM

i want a lathe so bad

1

exactly, it's actually cheap, dude, you have craiglist, you can get a decent one for 1-2k - time for a summer job - we do lots, LOTs of products on the lathe, you can also use it as mill in some cases

yeah being near indusrtrial area/universities can get all sorts of cool shit on cragslist etc

7:00 PM

rotovap has one broken part who wants it for free? MEE

a lathe, mill and a welder, there you go - a new machinist, changing the world

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1O0jDlG51N3jGf6_9t-9mw is the best at this

Marco Reps

Impressum Marco Reps c/o AutorenServices.de Birkenallee 24 36037 Fulda Please don't send anything there, for business inquiries contact me at marco@reps.cc I...

7:01 PM

basically yeah

7:01 PM

i will get a fdm first, then laser + cnc + pen plotter toolheads

7:01 PM

then make a dremel cnc + dremel/drill + 3d printed jig drill press, and angle grinder to bench grinder/belt sander jig

7:02 PM

then get one of those 4 in 1 welder/plasma cutters

7:02 PM

then i'd be set untill i settle down and make a proper makerspace

as Marcin said, skip the poor man crap - it's good for learning, but at the end - just waste

7:04 PM

saying that after regretting to have wasted easily 15k in my DIY time; that's the price for a small CNC lathe, spitting out $$ all day long

can be a learning experience

7:07 PM

also i've seen intresting 3d printers from e-waste

7:07 PM

like old cd/floppy drives etc

yep, all stuff catching dust in my shelfs now

time for a workshop tour video (edited)

Hello, I have a question.

5:13 AM

Is it difficult to build/assemble the parts/pieces for the injection moulding machine and from a scale from 1-10 how skilled do you have to be able to build it?

Does anyone know how to make the shredder without having the required supplies (belt sander, welding machine, lathe or drill press)?

1

@penguin1013 No idea...impossible I would say. Even just making the box, besides being lucky a find a perfect suitable one, or cutting the knives.....Isn't there any shop willing to help you build one ? Or maybe buy one on the bazar ?

Yeah, I was just curious

8:30 AM

Thanks for the advice

Since I'm not well equiped too, I'm trying to find ways of building the PP machines with what I got

That's nice

Talking about the blades, I think I'll try to melt it in aluminum

I like building stuff, but the thing is I don't have any equipment and I don't know any local shops in my area

8:35 AM

Cool

You can start to buy you some tools to get started

I'm thinking about just buying some parts from bazar and build it from there

8:35 AM

I also don't have any space

8:36 AM

for any tools so yeah

What would you like to build, or do ?

I'm just starting off with building a shredder

Just need some funding and internet connection should solve it

jk

Yeah

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0

davehakkens

Precious Plastic - Build the shredder

Have you seen this hack of a paper shredder turned into a plastic shredder ?

Not yet

It won't break very hard pieces, but It will be a good start for shreddind bottles, etc

That's cool

https://www.instructables.com/id/50-Plastic-Shredder-Grinder-Recycler/

$50 Plastic Shredder / Grinder / Recycler

$50 Plastic Shredder / Grinder / Recycler: Everyone in the DIY community and especially those who work with 3D printers, have one issue - plastic junk. It can be failed prints, project scrap leftovers, or maybe you are just looking for a way to shred and recycle your plastic a...

Thanks

Anyone on here have the V4 shredder yet. It’s a beast I’m in love.

lots of new design ideas here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9pEjYjBv7k

AndysMachines

Building a better DIY injection moulding machine part 2

awesome soundtrack, he had it in the last one too -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nX-RfSnBbSo&fbclid=IwAR053zv_yYbmT2dyygGnpybm7lwytanwbvhDx7gPvTX5-RC_zILUUNDtgf4

Daniel de Bruin

MECHANICAL 3D PRINTER - no electricty

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Ooooh that's neat.

Something like this is very important. Can't wait for the schematics.

Where can one find the design files for a regular (non-Pro) shredder?

2:21 PM

the shredder starterkit only has the plans for the pro version, it seems

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

The .zip / page on shredder 2.1 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21) has no docs on the machine frame

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

time to crowdfund the download button on the main page

2:26 PM

you can measure out the frame here : https://a360.co/2UZpiCW - it's more a design on the go

@ikbensiep https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/598887270636060694/685459525591236635 (edited)

2

@Deleted User reminds me of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptUj8JRAYu8

Aeo Jx

Markus Kayser - Solar Sinter Project

4:01 PM

3d printing news- large scale desktop resin printer just coming out, i can imagine it would be very useful in mouldmaking.. (edited)

4:02 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFpkMRC-4n0

Uncle Jessy

This changes everything! Peopoly Phenom L Initial Look - Full Size ...

There is a short crash course in 10 mins about using Github, on zoom : https://us04web.zoom.us/j/77018731600?pwd=WWpxQkpKY0RNNk42amdyR0F5MU1Fdz09 I am recording it but if you want to learn it, join just

1

Sorry I need to go to bed

5:26 PM

@Deleted User

5:27 PM

I can see you typing lol

5:27 PM

ok

don´t worry, have a good nite young ninja

1

Hi guys, I'm a Belgian living in the Dominican Republic trying to help solve the plastic pollution problem here. I wanted to start building the basic shredder but I didn't find the blueprints of the machine. Can anyone help me with this please?

7:18 PM

Oh nvm, I saw the previous chats and downloaden the 700 MB kit

7:18 PM

:p

@Deleted User reminds me of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptUj8JRAYu8

@Timberstar looks like the 2020 version of all time yt hero 'Primitive Technologies' (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAL3JXZSzSm8AlZyD3nQdBA) (edited)

ahh love that channel

Does any one know what the threaded rod's sleeve's name is? Here is a pic, what is the name for the part circled in red?

8:22 PM

I'm having trouble finding them for sale.

8:26 PM

Or is that just pipe turned down to size on a lathe?

basically, yes

8:41 PM

@reosed. , McMaster might have that on stock; where are you located ? (edited)

8:42 PM

or 'Phidgets' (edited)

8:43 PM

Hey everyone. I am new and trying to build the shredder. I have looked everywhere but can not seem to find the link to the files. Any help would be appreciated!

a new #how-to-download channel ?

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@xxCheese&Bread its in the big download kit

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Thank you!

You´re welcome

9:36 PM

was wondering to make a screencast, pretending to know nothing about PP, just want to build the machine - you actually have to click through 3 different sites and then still mark the copy and paste the download link from some howto - if you´re lucky, you get the right one

might be quite funny video to make with any john doe from next door.

Hi, anyone know how to visualize the plans? I downloaded the kid but my computer doesn't allow me to see them, or some program ...

Plans?

7:05 AM

Action-Plan_A0.pdf

1.02 MB

7:06 AM

@fran carvajal this one?

very cool to be able to buy these ready-made with a thread both ways.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T10x2-T20x4-Left-and-Right-Tooth-Trapezoidal-Lead-Screw-Rod-Long-200-600mm-cut-/123067394086<@456226577798135808> (edited)

@fran carvajal Do you mean the cad files? If you just want to see/visualise it you can see the machines on the academy or download a free cad viewer and import the stp-file. If you want to change the machine or add some stuff you need a cad software. Free ones like freecad, student version of better ones (like solidworks, ...) or you buy one... The oter files/plans are most pdf,...

there are 3d explorers for all machines on https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/

@Timberstar what for ? sorry - lost track

Hello guys, I have something special to ask you. Im funding a startup to plastic recycle with a v4 workspace and a game for mobile that I've been designing for 2 years now, I'm really close to getting real funding with this investor that came to me, but she requested I presented her more accurate market data. Since small scale and on demand plastic recycling facilities are RARE here in Brazil, I ask you, could you who works with plastic products please answer this formulary? https://forms.gle/aM1VV6eWDDoSHD9N9

Help us know better before we start plastic recycling!

We aim at creating wider knowledge among the universe of small / medium scale PLASTIC RECYCLING! Besides, the results of this research will give aditional, real world data for an investor + startup relationship that just started within a specific project in Brazil called Plasm...

nice vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuY2-OrT9ig

Stuff Made Here

Bending steel with plastic 3D printed tools

1

interesting technique, molds come to mind to

ooh yea good point, like those old jelly moulds

there is a part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cNeAOpR-Ws

mh, so a crappy MCNC and a press enables you to make decent metal brackets,... nice way to get ahead of the 'recycled plastic only' projects. That makes it easy - doing good chairs, shelfs, flexible workshop tooling (fixtures,..). Honestly, that's quite a value adder to most PPeers. Great catch.

even steel toe crocs, he did it with plywood die https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcjgrB9vTec (edited)

Stuff Made Here

Mass producing steel toed crocs with wood and a hydraulic press

11:22 PM

thats just a short step from a plastic mould

11:25 PM

the guy is an absolute trooper, he put so much effort into this

Nice.

Could the injection molding machine and mold use pneumatic quick connectors? Is there a chance of it working as a quick release or do you think that it would make a mess?

@reosed. we tried different methods of quick connectors, but most all lacking the tolerance for molten plastic making them unusable - e.g. Cam Lock connectors. The most promising solution is a welded or machined "C-Shape" where you can slide in the mould. (edited)

So I just saw the Precious Plastics Brick video.

1:58 PM

Has anyone considered using the plastic bricks as formwork for something like rammed earth construction?

1

1:58 PM

If it would work it would be revolutionary.

1

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) It’s a great idea. You could make forms for Compressed Earth Blocks (CEB): https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Compressed_Earth_Blocks Not sure if the compressive strength of the blocks could be reached using plastic formwork but I’m sure someone on here could figure out whether that’s possible.

Compressed Earth Blocks

I figured you could use a flat steel bar inserted down the inside of the bricks to add strength on the axis the compression would cause.

1

3:35 PM

The notion though would be to actually use the recycled plastic bricks as form work for the final layout of the building.

3:35 PM

As you could then use the brick as the unit of measurement for the building.

Hey Everyone! I was wondering if anyone knew up to what temperture the extrusion, injection, and compression machines go or what is their average temperture to work? (edited)

Hey @DanGus is this enough?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create In the download kit you find the diagram...

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto Thank you very much!!

Does anyone know where I might find a CAD file of the PP brick, so I could incorporate it in a design? Not the laser cut files for the mold.

@Mortar Art (Melb, AU) , I have only the first, small brick , https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/projects/Bricks

The 1 piece? I assume 3 piece is just 3 times the length.

may be, it's quite some puzzle work in solidworks, let me know if you need a STEP file instead (edited)

A step would be lovely. An STL would be best.

10:52 AM

For some reason I couldn't import the solidworks file.

10:53 AM

But actually the main thing I wanted was dimensions.

step file: https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/projects/Bricks/cad/01_SINGLE ~ drawings : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/projects/Bricks/drawings/Brick_single_ALL-Parts.PDF

I toyed a little with eDrawings from Solidworks, the web preview is quite nice, not as good as Fusion360 but quite close. However, that makes it even easier for SW folks to publish appealing and complete projects :-) Here the single brick sliced up: https://precious-plastic.org/pp/projects/Bricks/cad/preview_single.html

3:41 PM

Still, I am looking for 3d web framework which let's me select & reference parts in howtos, manuals, etc.. I tried Blender4Web but turns out excessive work just to get basic controls in there :-(.

1

Can you port maya via django?

You mean Maya, the best 3d editor - for gaming, animations, nurbs,... and lots other things ? I am getting little horney, hearing the name already

My Maya times are long ago for me, wasn't that 2001 or so ? As far remember it was actually done in C++ - no idea how it evolved over time

b l e n d e r

It is python. You can basically control it via matplotlib or other. so with a django server it could work? I will ask my master pythonista see what he thinks Blender is not high level so you will always struggle to make tags and link objects in an easy way. I am not a blender pro at all, just defending what I like in a totally dishonest way.

1

The latest Maya seems to run on Linux (god kiss autodesk sometimes), to where you wanna port it ? Either way, the problem is to have a web player for your CAD files, assemblies, parts, drawings, animations - the full show basically. Something I can embed in a library, howto, etc... Blender : yeah, seems nice but last time I tried setting up a good webscene I noticed the insane amounts of work to add nice 3D web controls (orbit, anmiations...) and sync it with the CAD. ... (edited)

Mayavi => Django => server

6:03 PM

I am speculating as I have not seen it working

mh, no idea what this means but sounds cool

6:03 PM

ok, some sofa homework for this nite

Mayavi, extra cool vtk blabla

6:04 PM

python megacool, you can make it eat anything

6:04 PM

django to communicate with the indian

Mayavi seems just a plotter, so we're talking about 2 different things though

6:05 PM

I was talking about https://www.autodesk.com/products/maya/overview?support=ADVANCED&plc=MAYA&term=1-YEAR&quantity=1# but great, you pointed me the way :-)))

Maya Software | Computer Animation & Modeling Software | Autodesk

Maya is 3D computer animation software with powerful modeling, rendering, simulation, texturing, and animation tools for artists, modelers, and animators.

Mayavi is a bit more than a plotter you should test it

well, ok; next life

At the end, for howtos, I just need something simple : https://www.skf.com/es/products/rolling-bearings/roller-bearings/tapered-roller-bearings/single-row-tapered-roller-bearings/productid-32007%20X

SKF

I see, I thought you wanted to attach objects to the view

you perfectly did, Maya, so happy to pull this out again

anyway, in my former life we used a lot paraview https://www.paraview.org/web/

not just objects, also a generic 2D gui - i implemented many for many 3d engines ; ...

they seem to have a web interface

very cool, thanks man - back to woirk

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Hello everyone. I downloaded the Kit and I wanted to build the Extruder Pro but when opening Solidworks it deletes some files that cannot be found. These are the missing files:

8:19 PM

Will there be someone who can share these files with me or who has the complete SolidWorks?

yeah, we love vincent here would love to meet him

8:21 PM

I remember having done some minor fixes for this design in the CAD, https://precious-plastic.org/pp/machines/extrusion-pro.html - hit the download button and try again

In the download links there is nothing

hang on, my bad

8:23 PM

here you go : https://precious-plastic.org/pp/archives/extrusion-pro.zip

Thank you.

5 mins. support response time, that's near SLA - I start loving this

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography

Stereolithography

Stereolithography (SLA or SL; also known as stereolithography apparatus, optical fabrication, photo-solidification, or resin printing) is a form of 3D printing technology used for creating models, prototypes, patterns, and production parts in a layer by layer fashion using pho...

8:42 PM

?

no, SLA = Service Level Agreement, basically a 24/7 pro support you'd technically put a big bunch of $$ on the table

ah

'Vincent' seems to be however the new 'Tylor Durten' in the V4 data, a real ghost, amusing me since a while

- aka 'Vincent was here' (edited)

I'm trying to find the technical drawing for the injection screw for the higher pressure extruder machine. Does anyone know if there is one or do we have to buy one from the bazar area?

@tomcat_meow This the part you're looking for? It's for V4 Also link to RobotDigg shop.. https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project

05_extrusion_nozzle_screw.pdf

115.75 KB

30mm diameter extrusion screw for Precious Plastic project - RobotDigg

Screw and Barrel for Plastic Recycling RobotDigg are glad to work with worldwide Plastic Recycling projects which can he...

thanks for that info, can't get it made cheaper than that. seems to be two screws now the 558L and a 600L and he makes the barrel as well. Do you know what the difference is between the 558L and the 600L ? I also noticed that Precious Plastic did a new video for the extruder pro with a larger screw. Is this the 600L the larger screw perhaps? (edited)

i need help building a shredder #archived-machines #deleted-channel

@tomcat_meow yeah v4 is the larger 30mm diameter and longer length with tip attachment options.

Is that the one the robotdigg guy is selling as the 600L? I also notice on the new extruder pro there is a lot more machining of parts . Is there anyone making those parts? (edited)

The 600L is a slightly longer basic size I believe.

6:13 PM

The one I posted is for Pro

Robodigg is a little silly about this, I think 558 was the screw, and 600 is the barrel, you can see that in the price when changing. be aware they changed diameter without really updating the drawings. The recent screws are now with keyway, normal shaft - not hex and a 1mm smaller diameter = 24.7mm (24.8 actually)

6:25 PM

ah no - it's indeed 2 different screws, the system just doesn't switch correctly between the specs.

6:26 PM

a little bit Russian roulette

good luck

Well I'm hoping to get an answer back from them. Meantime I'm downloading the cad drawings into fusion360 and see what's up and maybe get some quotes on having them done over hear (ontario Canada) by my local machine shop.

@tomcat_meow Whereabouts in Ontario are you? I’m in the south near Windsor.

I live in Kitchener but my factory is in St. George where I manufacture electrical wire harnesses C-T Wire Prep Inc. www.ctwireprep.com

@tomcat_meow Awesome! I’ll send you a direct message to chat outside of #archived-machines

@tomcat_meow yeah, me too - just saw your 'vending machines' - we might need your help !

@Deleted User Do you turn the parts for the latest version extruder?

all of it - just not the screw, - this time -) ; it's a hell of a job actually, why ?

I'm intersted in getting the parts and weld it myself and assemble

well, you might be lucky - as far I know - there are a few parts involved which are not available outside of NL and FR, thus the simplified version of it I've sent you

8:22 PM

check out also the 20mins video - sorry - for the length

(edited)

I did have a look at the cad files and unfortunately I have fusion 360 cad and it won't accept solid works files

there are STEP files for each version, as well the mentioned '3d-preview' - which give you fusion files. DM me

8:24 PM

it's pretty easy after all, design it on the go

@AZADTHEGREAT Just ask your question

Hello everyone! I am looking at the Shredder Pro files, and wondering which software should I download or buy? Any recommendations for software purchase or freetrial or good price?

Oh! and if someone could help me to understand how many parts of each laser cut file I have to produce... I m quiet lost here :c I want to send the files to produce the cuts, but I need to know haw many pieces of each part

3:19 AM

I'm having some problems assimilating this haha

@Deleted User useful https://youtu.be/xZQ-zlqybeU

Tab and Slot

Laser Cutting tutorial

upgrade to the injection

8:25 AM

I have upgraded the injection machine. Now loading by a removable funnel straight to the top

8:26 AM

also added in a triangular brace on the bottom. I was having problem with the frame flex and bending

2

8:28 AM

likely next build will have a full triangle frame to the top. the handle is 1 inch schedule 40 seamed pipe.

8:28 AM

control boc is 2x4 inch c channel, two pieces cut and welded to make a box, end caps are 3D printed. Also feeding the wires in the front

Here is the equipment we created. A full cycle of creating filaments for 3D printing from a PET bottle. For a home business, that's it. One coil can cost 500-700 rubles. And how much is a bottle?) Not at all. We accept orders in Direct. The price is 490 euros. https://www.instagram.com/p/CArvQNXHrvc/?igshid=15ma2bjs5yfx8

Login • Instagram

Welcome back to Instagram. Sign in to check out what your friends, family & interests have been capturing & sharing around the world.

Hello! Who have got this plastic shredder?How many output (kg/h) from plastic bottle (PETE)?

upgrade to the injection

@Butte (PP Philippines) Client does not like it

wants angle brace removed. Man the original design flexes so much, I do not what to tell her.

1:15 PM

do not know what to tell her. (edited)

I was doing some digging for that NON-OS Plastic Bottle Peeler + Spooler, couldn't find it?

1:49 PM

ALSO

1:49 PM

that lead be to the "air purifier" project

1:49 PM

there are already FLOS projects on this with good documentation, and preformance:

1:50 PM

the useful links page on this has some:

1:50 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Gas_Scrubber

Gas Scrubber

@Butte (PP Philippines) : send her just the pictures with usually 3 people hanging on it, one to hold the frame back, and another two on the plunger. best you can do with that thing is anyways, just shorten the barrel size

really we should look more into toggle mechanisms for these machines https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=resDZbBr7eE

Yes Yen GraphiTech

507 Mechanical Movements - No: 140 - Toggle Joint arranged for a Pu...

10:04 PM

the geometry means that the mechanical advantage increases as you get closer to the bottom of the stroke

i love this channel

10:06 PM

problem is rather doing those links, with the precision and strength needed, as next you need oil, channels, etc.. but yeah, I feel like at the beginning of something.

my current press design uses Oilite self-lubricating bushings... bronze is also an option, not too expensive

10:08 PM

https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Metric-Plain-Oilite-Bearings/OB202420-Plain-Oilite-Bearing-Bush-3735-p

OB202420 Plain Oilite Bearing Bush - BearingBoys

OB202420 Plain Oilite Bearing Bush (Metric Plain Oilite Bearings) at BearingBoys - £3.92 exc VAT. Inside Dia (d): 20mm, Length/Width (L): 20mm, Outside Dia (D): 24mm,

10:10 PM

yeah, using stock bushing here too, still, making the link is a little nightmare - each could eat up to 1-3 hours, ... that´s a lot in a normal PP day

and fm20 linear plain bushing for the sliders https://www.amazon.com/Linear-Metric-Closed-Bearing-FM20/dp/B00W4CGS0I

unless we outsource it, if we can pay 50 upfront ... not a good time right now either

laser cut parts though?

anyway, don´t get de-motivated, after shit storm time, there´s good time, as always laser: let´s try, that would imply 10 mm thickness to have enough leverage and stability

hm that seems like a lot but ok..

wait, yeah, a plate, a stock cylinder, seamless, weld and good. we need to get somewhere in the 20mm bushing height range

maybe 2x 5mm with a 6mm gap between

dunno , will have to try it just though

10:20 PM

has to be precise after all, i need to be able that a 6month trained student can do it, if not, well , then not

10:21 PM

telling you that after watching my 2 left hands

i think if the hole in the arm plate is cut precisely with the laser it should be quite an easy weld, the vertical rib can have indexing tabs into it too to make it easier to locate

gimme the CAD, let me check

10:23 PM

private repo is fine

ok just a sec

out for today, rocking already 14 hours today

ok

Hello

Anyone in EU willing to help me do some EU to US wiring translation? Especially anyone on @🤙v4-team that worked with the shredder. These lugs need labels. I believe the connections on GRN and RED lines are NC to A2, but would appreciate some verification. (edited)

https://github.com/TSltd/ElectricMiniPress

@Timberstar Is this link down?

its a private repo at the moment, still in development

1

6:27 AM

sorry should have been a dm

10:50 AM

Can anyone help with the motor?

10:51 AM

Is this one shredder proof?

740W, no. should be the double at least, also in size

11:01 AM

but can work with a small dual axle shredder

Is there a latest version 4 extruder cad files for fusion 360 to be had for download anywhere? The lydia step files seem to strip off the sketches and only provide bodies with no dimensions unless I'm uploading somehow wrong?

@tomcat_meow let me check - both versions.

@tomcat_meow looks like the official version is in a bad shape, missing parts, etc.. gimme 10 mins to see what's going on -

right, so here's the thing :

v4 official is missing only unimportant parts
the preview and downloads in the unofficial library are fixed and up-to-date
the drawings don't always contain dimensions because you can check that in the CAD
some v4 machines have drawings but didn't include the drawing source files

PlasticHub - Variants

Lydia v4 is quite another story, also there, we only add drawings with dimensions when needed to produce parts Unofficial Library : most machines have a Fusion360 Web View, you can download the Fusion file from there. In case it's a v4, I mostly used their step files to import into Fusion and then made the scene 'public' Sorry for the mess, I am still trying to get a handle on it - it's not exactly easy and we're just in the middle of fixing the files and the system but technically, you're ready to go. If you need a drawing, you have to make one in Fusion360 or Solidworks - I know that's aweful too since you loose the link to updates this way.

7:41 PM

I could employee 2 CAD guys, the entire year to make this roundish

7:43 PM

@tomcat_meow I am uploading however right now another fusion360 file - hang on

7:44 PM

nobody said it's going to be easy

7:47 PM

@tomcat_meow : https://a360.co/2zGj9CU

Fusion

Share 2D and 3D design files and project files with anyone.

7:47 PM

There you can download the fusion archive file as well.

ok thanks , I'll check this info out when I get home.. work is done for the day here. I really want the dimensional information so I can send out for quotations to a few of my machining places. Always easier with proper CAD drawings in case I want to modify. I did download the pdfs so I could use them as attachments and email out.

Yes, I understand the problem. Pretty much all machines, files, components, docs,... have to be polished and updated; for us - as vendor - we're spending significant time to get the material in a top notch shape, ready for production - I assume it's just months away to fully digest and update v4 material. However, some machines already received updates (completeness, CAD fixes, ...). It's a giant job for 3+ people getting this nice for anybody who wants to jump in.

Yes large job and once the drawings are done I have to co-ordinate with office staff a bill of materials into quickbooks enterprise which is our office accounting/manufacturing software , so when someone orders a machine it spits out all the purchase orders to the various suppliers and then train the workforce people on assembly for the prototype and first number of machine orders. Drawings are also required for ISO9000 for us as well as detailed build procedures.

10:08 PM

I also have to put together a proposal for government grants associated with recycling plastic. I just missed the deadline in Canada for this. Happens every year from January to May. Government was willing to grant good proposals up to 150k first year and if proven concept then further implementation 2nd year allowing for 1 Mill in grant money if jobs created... but sadly missed the boat for this year.

That's amazing to hear. Didn't know about 9000 and quickbooks (being on zoho, still). Yes, that's my understanding too; the easier and better the input material, the faster things can move. Sad to hear about the grants, that have might be a nice case study for PP's portfolio.

Grant will likely happen again next Jan

I am looking since a while into 9001:2015 and 14001; so there are reasons to look into 9000 as well I guess.

Yes we need 9000 for other products we produce. Also have to have UL and CSA approvals for any machine we produce and drawings are needed for that as well. That limits the components I can buy as well they have to be UL and CSA approved such as heaters and vfd, motors and electronics. Hard to find UL and CSA on alibaba sometimes.

10:26 PM

I already have two people DM me on here wanting extrusion machines which I find crazy... I don't even know what the selling price will be as of yet.

Interesting - haven't heard about UL and CSA either. We use here simple thumb rule for pricing, min. 50% margin, and then think about what it actually worth on the market, leaves us with just fees and a little labor paid but I can feel good about. For the v4 extruder, 3000$ will be alright - there is still lots of head room for improvements, evtl. you can make it a 5K machine. Working since a while on a PID and touchscreen interface; not sure though there are clients for such things.

Yah I'll probably do the touch screen as well with raspberry pi eventually or some other hmi . I use a stand alone hmi which runs on 485 bus for vending machines because it is a large machine and many sensors so everything is on the bus.

11:17 PM

and with vending machine the payment processor is on the bus

yeah, there's good stuff out there (https://www.linux.com/topic/embedded-iot/6-industrial-touch-panel-computers-based-raspberry-pi/) already. Right now, I found it rather challenging to make a good PID in code alone. If anyone knows a DIN variant, via I2C or rs485. There are some on AliExpress but I'd love to have this on the Arduino (in particular 'controllino') just. However, Ideally users can select temperature profiles along with extrusion speed. There is then as next the automatic-clamping system to be interfaced - which turns out also bigger than initially thought. Not even sure this can be done with the v4 extruder as is. For the HMI I am using a past product (https://github.com/catx23/control-freak/issues/1) - still couldn't find a modern version. I had cxProgrammer and some other tools tested already - but not exactly sexy or flexible.

I will probably get there some day but for now I'll use the PID suggested as I have already sourced it over here . I don't have a price yet for a PID , should have that next week but I don't think they are expensive. Would be much nicer to adjust temps on a touch screen and have all bands looked after with one touch.

1

11:38 PM

program array for each type of plastic and temperature required once you know them as well as speed of motor

11:39 PM

First I need to build the volkswagen , then I'll get around to the lamborgini

Yeah, we use the Inkbird-ITC 100VH everywhere, 40$ with SSR and thermocouple - the auto-tuning is great but still, I think we should find better PIDs, not just for a v4 extruder.

are you using the robotdigg barrel or do you use the PP ?

custom made here in shop

what outside diameter are you using ? robotdigg barrel is 50mm and PP barrel is 40 mm

40

al thats a multiple of ten...

Re touch screen: When you wear PPE like heat resistant gloves, it is tricky to work it out. Possible but tricky, interface needs be very simple

Im want to make game..i need army f Off plastic space ships ..and troops .

12:54 PM

It will be bord game....i like to this all With recycle plastic ..

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland : yeah, that's why you will be able to run the interface also on the phone or tablet. As well, most operating controls have also mechanical switches. For the extrusion I have these tabs planned: Profiles | Temperatures | Motor | Clamping | Debug (sensors) | Times | Automation , just like on any industrial extruder HMI. Making something simple means in software usually giant work

The code base is already somewhere in the millions of lines code range; luckily I've done this sort of stuff for lots of years. (edited)

1:40 PM

Another big chunk is to document this system - also to keep it OS/DIY friendly

. I am having right now lots of fun with the new documentation system: https://precious-plastic.org/pp/machines/hal.html#build

Shredder & Extrusion Controller ‘HAL 9000’

Precious Plastic - Machine : Component :: Shredder & Extrusion Controller ‘HAL 9000’

Is aluminium the standard choice for the sheet press heatplate, not steel? What is the reason? Is it just because of the drilling, or is it better for heat transfer? cheaper?

Larger plates need larger face mills, with aluminium there is quite some more cheaper head room to get it flat than steel, though. The last mega mill I've seen was in the 10M range, and still, quite limited in size. There are of course also special machines to make 'sheets' flat, via rollers and what not.

8:48 PM

However, getting things really flat is expensive - there are docus about - just for that

It's a key for the entire world since the beginning - nice chapter in the technique encyclopedia. A surface plate for instance, 400 mm = 1000E, and more.

8:49 PM

Steel is also more 'living' ... any stress might bend it.

yeah i read the first flat reference surface was created by rubbing 3 stones together in alternating pairs

nice, somebody made his homework

1

so the question in this area is 'how flat is flat' (edited)

8:52 PM

and how bad is an unground sheet, can it be good enough

PP wise, anything +/- 0.5 mm might be ok - this chapter will haunt me for some time though for the 1.30m sheetpress. anything beyond, for the interested reader : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWa3F4bKJsE (edited)

New Mind

The Science Of Flatness

8:55 PM

A surface grinder however is one of the best investments one can do, no matter the trade.

i love that stuff.. also related, going from a flat plane to an axis https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djB9oK6pkbA

Machine Thinking

The 1751 Machine that Made Everything

nice, will check it out - here a snippet from the almighty PP forum : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpenv1ZqGx4 - https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/youtube-cherries-for-makers/page/3/ (edited)

8:59 PM

ah, I know the lathe video - porn - will check it again - just for fun

it looks kinda like one of the early PP machines lol

'Machine Thinking' should be sued for not making more videos

i still find it amazing so much was done without welding until about 1900

9:04 PM

im starting to feel like although 3D printing is cool, its actually laser cutting which is gonna feed the 4th industrial revolution

yeah, I 've seen amazing machines done all from laser cut parts recently in some partner shops. Will make more pics - but yeah - companies seem to replace a lot machines here in Catalonia - food, packaging, textile industry - name it.

9:08 PM

I am getting closer to a PP Opensource contribution protocol / user submission standard, fee free to add : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/products/todos.md

its seems like slot and tab is still a very under-recognized technique, almost nothing about it online

not sure though - when you receive the parts after all - there is lots of post work, sometimes not, depends for what.

theres some videos here http://tabandslot.com/ which show different ways to get better results.. I know there are other variations of the technique too but cant find info (edited)

notice, @Timberstar removed the shitty link preview, not complying with basic standards for websites :-)))

its apparently possible to just have a few small tabs and fill up the entire corner edge with weld

sick, luckily we have you - seriously - I want to replace a lot of hand jobs with laser cutting joy !

those guys build flat surface welding tables... kinda similar to the heatpress matrix in construction

9:14 PM

yeah like the guy says on the video, you get the laser to do all the work, a carefully thought out design could go together in minutes

sick, out for today - dreaming about my new table, have fun

1

hey guys, i want to build bricks with the Extruder Pro. I´m not an expert and I was wandering, if exrtrusion is the right process for melting 3,5kg of plastic (one brick). Filling the mold would take >5 min and i dont know if this long fill up time would affect the strength of the brick...

12:43 PM

different approach would fill the mold and then put it in an oven but the melting process would take a long time and I´m pretty sure the gases are not very healthy

you need the pressure of the screw to fill the mold cavity properly. You can speed up the process by cooling the mold

Visual list of lasercut parts of Shredder Pro cutting chamber (doesn't include hopper files, electronic box, or mesh). Let me know if Im missing something. Will make a proper pdf version then

1

12:30 AM

Also does anyone know any trick, script or macro to disassemble sheetmetal parts and lay flat in sheet nesting form in CAD

Fusion360 has a sheetmetal feature but uses different objects to flatten all. Doing this with solids is rather impossible, you could write a script putting them on the ground but that's about it, unless you help it with slicer planes and what not. Or how you mean that ? We use only handmade 'overview' drawings to help the laser guy and back tracking, he's doing the nesting with his own software.

12:53 AM

If you find any script in this direction, I am also interested, SW's 'explode' isn't really enough though

@sharma.sagar94 , you're right, there are no overview drawings anymore, and the drawing source files are also missing. that's all I have now - https://precious-plastic.org/pp/machines/shredder-pro.html#build we polish this folder some time soon - your pdf is welcome

(edited)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQCNMw7puB0

Marcin Jakubowski

Precious Plastic Pro Shredder Coversion to 3D Printed Parts

@Eric Lotze what a joke. has no idea of the forces involved

12:49 PM

no chance it can be done in plastic

12:51 PM

why try to reinvent something which already works

12:51 PM

laser cutting is cheap

12:52 PM

basic physics, you need something harder to cut something softer. plastic wont cut plastic. maybe for a few seconds.

12:53 PM

you could do it with sintered metal 3d printing, if you wanna pay 10x

actually, was thinking since long about a shredder made from plastic; you can shred other things, food, folia, styrofoam, ... 3d print waste as for the knifes, you could make them 1-3 cm thick, you can install hand grind cutters on it. - that's doable without much metal work equipment.

3d printing is exciting, but its not the answer to everything, especially problems which dont exist

i just love too much the idea doing machines from machines though

yeah for sure but laser cutting exists..

Can you laser cut plastic?

12:56 PM

My stupid question

and yet, you still need a shit load of special tools/machines finishing it up

12:57 PM

I threw some PLA the other day into the injector, it came out bone hard

@Lazy_Turtle i think it depends on the colour

12:58 PM

it wont cut reflective surfaces and i think colours similar to the colour of the laser either red or blue

12:59 PM

but for sure there are specialist ones which can

Ok

@Eric Lotze the objective should be not to make the machines simply cheaper, but to make them better, more productive and a more realistic investment rather than a toy. A 3d printed plastic shredder is never going to be better than a metal one at any price. A machine should be able to pay for itself or there is something wrong.

1:04 PM

and its usually not because the machine is too expensive to build (edited)

1:06 PM

its usually because theres no market for the end product

yeah - but still, I'd love messing around with 2cm sheets coming from the sheetpress - til today I haven't seen much amazing or really useful things coming out of PP, imo. What was btw. actually the outcome of the 50 product designers visiting Eindhoven last year ? I've seen only some furniture ideas (excessive work), possibly i missed something. cheaper/simpler means also more accessible, much needed in areas with no access to power/laser, ... EU won't stop offloading waste to poor countries ... Anyways, there is quite some demand from SMEs last weeks for the sheetpress - I keep bugging them what they wanna do with it.

yea plastic sheets are a viable product

Can't wait to see the first and large PP MPCNC

there are already companies commercially selling them at a known price

1:14 PM

if we are thinking about machines for education as the end product, thats all good, but its not a big market, its quite a niche

1:14 PM

im predicting a boom in SMEs post Covid

1:15 PM

and plastic recycling is a way people can make money with very little raw material cost

1:16 PM

there wont be jobs for people to go back to, they will be looking for alternatives

1:17 PM

another sneak preview

2

1:18 PM

it now has adjustable height settings for different thicknesses 0-50mm

@Timberstar what are ways to make machines more profitable?

1:19 PM

Or structure?

faster, less operators (automated), less power consumption, and of course cheaper build cost

1:20 PM

in that order, i would say

1:21 PM

speed and automation are the key

1:21 PM

oh and of course bigger

How about the structure of Precious Plastic?

1:21 PM

I've once thought about PP as a Franchaise

i see it as a decentralised open franchise

1:22 PM

anyone can basically put the logo on their enterprise and start making money

1:22 PM

in theory

1:22 PM

how they do it is a different story

Yeah

1:22 PM

I meant PP providing funding

1:23 PM

If they have $$

thats a question for $bussiness (edited)

for all that you'd first need an entirely different mind set for the organisers - we can't even have a simple forum, and lots of other basic things which shifts the focus to the community, the goal, ... PP is kept in a kinda jail - so you have to build something in top - which attracts also the right people - working on that

(edited)

im not sure, i wouldnt put so much importance on PP 'central' in terms of the wider movement, everyone is spread out geographically and builders are always doing things somehow in their own way

1:31 PM

in a decentralised movement the central node is mostly about having a 'flag'

1:33 PM

i dont wanna bad mouth central, i think they did a lot, its very different to a commercial setup... but all kinds of other things are developing organically all the time

you still need a management layer, acting responsible and fast, as in other fast growing projects, there is also a need for policy makers, platform designers, addressing certain needs. not blaming, just realize where we could have been - if ...

the 'organisers' are organising their bit, others can organise other things too and it can all work fine togehter

1:36 PM

im not sure, i dont see so much 'layers', but each of us developing skills to be able to get the job done

anyway, don't bother, I go with a fork

@Timberstar What do you think of PP branch, like PP Asia?

sure, why not, infrastructure just really doesn't interest me that much

1:39 PM

i guess its useful to break the language barrier

Like a BIG community point, to connect machine builders and workspaces together

1:39 PM

Can have Discord too

1:40 PM

Many machine builders are looking for clients, while many workspaces are looking for machines.

sure, but its too easy to get lost in thinking about 'how' we can do stuff without really having a clear idea about 'why'

To connect people in Asia, that's the goal

yes but its still just about how... we can connect everyone in the world but if its not about something positively viable there is no point, its all just a game about nothing

1:44 PM

when i say why i mean directly, why are you gonna melt this plastic and what are you gonna do with it

1:45 PM

if youre not making it into something useful, or at least beautiful, its a non starter. education counts, as i mentioned, but there are only so many plastic educators in the world and when theyve all got a machine, what next?

So are you wondering if it is possible or not?

no i mean your idea for an asia branch, its a 'how' solution not a 'why' solution

1

1:46 PM

we can connect up with them, first question will be, 'so why are we doing this?'

1:47 PM

'because its fun and educational' is not a very strong answer

To help people who want to sell or buy?

ok, but people must have something of value to buy and sell

You mean

?

#just-chatting - please

Alright

id rather talk about machines... @Deleted User the controller you made with the 'record' function, is the motion control all done by the arduino and the rasperry pi just for the user interface?

the record'n replay addon (https://github.com/plastic-hub/firmware/blob/master/shredder-extrusion/zoe/addons/ExtrusionReplay.h) is done on the Arduino; it's dirt cheap simple and possibly can be all replaced with analogue electronics. However, Arduino is great for IO (inputs/outputs), RasPI is not but is great to run apps and control the Arduino via RS485 or similar. The system is designed like that at the moment (more : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/products/asterix/). Applicable for the upcoming vending shredder (full automatic, with auto -plunger). I am using the same system for the extruder&injection interface sometime this year. Happy already that most works

(edited)

2:04 PM

ignore the printerboard, it's obselete now by using https://www.controllino.biz/product/controllino-mega/ instead as main I/O controller

@Deleted User ace.. so would it be possible to run a machine on just the arduino with push button controls but with the option to upgrade to touchscreen with raspberry pi later on? (edited)

that's the plan - yeah, already implementing it like this on a daily base - somehow

Here are the circuits for 'Zoe': https://precious-plastic.org/pp/machines/hal.html#wiring - took me a while to keep all 'modular' - still, stupid loads of work ahead

For the PP v4 extruder design they require taper roller bearings . They give a web page from eriks in the netherlands. Seems this link just gets you to the site with no particular bearing chosen. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for these bearings?

you might look for classic SKF 32006-x-q - make sure it's matching ID

ok thanks, I will look it up and see if it fits thanks

https://www.skf.com/ph/products/rolling-bearings/roller-bearings/tapered-roller-bearings/single-row-tapered-roller-bearings/productid-32006%20X those are quite standard, be aware that 'lydia' uses 32007, for 35mm ID

yes that skf will work for the PP for sure. the OD lines up with the bearing housing at 55mm and the ID is 30mm so it should work.

Amazon has but it is a knock off not true skf.

yeah, - stay away from amazon for this sort of things, your local machinists should have their shelfs full with catalogues from suppliers, at least that's how it works here

yah I have that one sorted out now with two alternatives. SKF and Timken 24 dollars Canadian not too bad. Local so I can drive and get.

I'm scratching my head over this one. BOM for PP v4 extruder calls up an Ammlock ALK 142/20/47. I don't see this component in any drawing ? Does anyone know what it is used for. It's a clamp with 12 screws. Doesn't fit any diameter or bolt pattern ?

9:02 PM

skip it I found it

it's used in over engineering

yes seems to have no real use for this clamp (overkill)

Now on to the next dilemma with this build that makes it difficult to do the way they designed it. The conical lock from Ammlock has no substitute that I can find over on this side of the world. I have an email in to Ammertech to see what this thing costs. Seems much simpler to modify the coupling shaft end to accept the 20mm end of the screw shaft and have a keyway instead of this ammlock conical bushing. Has anyone in North America found a direct replacement for this conical bushing ?

yeah - welcome to the club, that was the reason to drop the design and go for Lydia-v4 instead. At the end it´s still just a bigger v3 extruder - just with a better bearing block/housing for the axial load, well - and some more greasing for the bearings. The BOM as is now seems already invalid, even after signing up on same pages, you gonna figure that they ship only to NL and FR. Already complaint about but we´re apparently not better than some download link bots

, but nice to see that you, Mr. @davehakkens didn´t loose your last sense of humor. (edited)

12:32 AM

As said, buy the screw, take the motor specs, walk to the next metal guy, he´s doing in 1-2 days, no drawings and bloat, etc.. needed.

I will just modify the coupling shaft to eliminate the compression end and make it accept 20mm end of screw with keyway in both coupler shaft and screw . Drill and tap a set screw to hold key in keyway and that should solve the problem. Also make bearing body one piece but longer, same as if transition piece was welded on, and cut service access for keyway set screw and put same bolt pattern on end of the one piece as was on the transition piece and eliminate transition piece all together as well as welding the two pieces... much simpler design similar to lydia but accommodates the seimens drive. the KM drive and motor not available over here.

1:38 AM

I think the gearbox flange being 3 pieces is not necessary either , better to just make a solid flange and eliminate machining 3 pieces and welding. Only reason I can think of they designed it this way was to attempt to limit heat from extruder getting to gearbox somewhat, overkill again

yeah, PP, getting better with every build - ❤️ there is a solid hopper mount acting as heat sink and a fitting hopper, ready for laser cut - will send you links via DM tomorrow

the lydia model seems to not worry about heat to gear box either.

because it doesn´t

was sitting here for long on the table - still waiting for client feedback but tests showed there is no problem anywhere

1:53 AM

a little heat btw. is alright, depends on the grease though, like with a lathe spindle I guess (edited)

the gearbox flange width is 36mm thick which is crazy if I replace it with a solid flange. I will have to shorten coupling shaft same amount as I reduce gearbox flange so coupling shaft fits gearbox properly. Yah high temp grease is available

1:57 AM

probably a good thing I can't get that conical bushing , just forcing me into a redesign suitable for North America.

that´s the spirit! I only remember a little warm near the flange when heating up to 220degc, it´s 30cm away from the heatband after all

2:07 AM

flange at 16 cm diameter, around 3 cm thick

was a very sexy job somehow

2:11 AM

but hey, really good points to make more testings and iterations, thanks.

2:13 AM

I have to make around 3 new Lydias soon, I can do some video capture if anyone needs, quite simple after all. takes just a day or so

im working on a lead screw mechanism which also needs to withstand axial force, I was thinking of using a pair of normal thrust bearings either side of the shaft collar and a single radial bearing on the outside, since there are radial bearings in the gearbox

2 thrust bearings can be enough, newer gearboxes can take quite some axial load - not knowing the preassure

yea i was thinking that but the thrust bearings cant take any radial load at all, they need a radial location on both sides i think

best is to open anyway the gearbox and lookup bearing specs, some are good, some are terrible

2:29 AM

ah, sure

2:31 AM

ciau

i think i can just set a bearing in the centrehole of a plate and then have a secondary plate to hold it in place

2:32 AM

ok ciao

@tomcat_meow re. heat loss, its also a question of power consumption efficiency, ive been thinking an insulating gasket might be good somewhere in there otherwise the machine will take longer to get up to working temp (edited)

2:53 AM

once it's running, most of the heat required is generated by the pressure and shear within the material moving in the barrel - something like 80%

2:55 AM

by that point heat will be travelling along the shaft anyway so the gearbox will heat up a bit, i think its just about the warmup time

yes an insulation gasket between the gearbox and flange plate would be ok for sure and I will add that. This would mean heat transfer could only happen through the screws instead of the entire plate. Also the thrust bearings will not have very much radial load rpm is fairly slow at 260 rpm or there about.

1

mine is a different application though

4:29 AM

im doing a leadscrew to actuate a slider mechanism, im concerned that play in the sliders will introduce axial movement to the shaft

so i came up with this kinda double housing, maybe would work for the extruder too..

6:15 AM

what do you guys think about running a bearing against a lead screw thread like that? i was intending to use pre-threaded bar but it might end up better to do a custom job since it needs a collar as well

6:16 AM

then i can have plain shaft where the bearings are

6:18 AM

also whats the best way to add the collar? just weld it on and then trim it up on the lathe? what about building up a ring of weld and turning it back to dimension?

Hello, does anyone know which machine/process this is?

12:01 PM

1

Hello, I have a question. Is it difficult to build/assemble the parts/pieces for the injection moulding machine and from a scale from 1-10 how skilled do you have to be able to build it?

can anybody help with a shredder drawing with dimension and list of materiels to build with?

1

I'm working on the extruder for that but will be on the shredder next. Do they not have files to download on the PP site?

@Timberstar : yeah, you can just weld a ring on the shaft and then turn it down (https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/extrusion/clamp_flange/index.html), wants precision chuck , for 4j-adjustable.

4:58 PM

@tomcat_meow : how is it coming, really interested in your design

I have modified the 1110 flange plate to a solid piece 19mm thick now that should work with bearing body. I will modify coupling shaft length and bore a keyway instead of using the conical bushing method to drive the screw which means the screw will also have a keyway machined in it. Here is the solid flange drawing if anyone wants to see. https://a360.co/2MmBLe8

Fusion

Share 2D and 3D design files and project files with anyone.

@raffy_02 : hard to say, for a normal metal guy, there might be still challenges. if you want to make it really good, count on a 10 - even though - assuming professional tooling. you can make it work with less though

@tomcat_meow , fusion file is still being generated - can't wait

keep in mind if you use the plate it will have to go in conjunction with the seimens drive PP recommends and the coupling shaft may need modification for length because I made the 1110 plate width thinner by 17 mm

6:01 PM

I should have that drawing later today if I don't get bothered with other work on the factory floor

webview is still stuck ..

6:02 PM

anyway, i can show it to our gurus, I usually leave them the last word

hmm so the file isn't loading up for you? I've never shared a fusion file other than on our network here at work to other engineers in our company

6:03 PM

you have email I can send pdf

yeah, can take some time sometimes. I can wait

The siemens drive is rather just an option, if it comes to motors, you can perfectly be fine with less than siemens. Here it's around 500e for a good motor and reducer. I was surprised to see this expensive stuff on the v4 extruder but using then a rexc100 PID

(edited)

hi does anyone know who i can ask regarding shredder calculations since i can't create an account to use the forums?

I just got off a conference call with bosch and seimens . Bosch does vfd and seimens the motor/gearbox. I'm good for 220 3 phase power up to 11kw so only require 3kw . I really wanted to use 220 single phase power but vfd might not work... Bosch is on the phone to Germany to see if it can be implemented. I wish the world would get standardized on voltage levels.

@Abby : just shoot

6:11 PM

@tomcat_meow - i am impressed you go so far

oh thanks, i just wanted to know how to determine my gearbox ratio for my shredder. the green engineers posted about it in the forums but he used a number (5252) that i have no clue where he got it from to divide the torque so i don't know where to start

6:13 PM

@tomcat_meow - as mentioned via DM, any better 300$ VFD as Omron will be fine, they last forever, the HY VFDs is also quite alright. the Omron has btw. also the current analog output, which is perfect to detect jamming, idle and thus subject to addons.

6:19 PM

@Abby - for a standard motor speed of around 1500 RPM, you want a gearbox of 1:20 - 1:30 whereby 70RPM is best to run the shredder. There is a little tool as well : 'will it shred': http://precious-plastic.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/Will-it-shred-v1.xlsx (edited)

thank uuuu appreciate it!!

don't hesitate coming back if you are unsure - ideally you get the gearbox together with the motor - if not, that can be troublesome. have fun

i'm trying to do the calculations for the shredder because i'm trying to convince a company in my region to accept precious plastic as part of their go green concept but they need the math done first then prototyping

@tomcat_meow btw, if you go for Omron, you can benefit from some code - in development, I started porting a Modbus implementation for it, not just for a vending shredder but also to automate the v4/lydia/extruder via yet missing clamping system (https://github.com/plastic-hub/firmware/tree/asterix/shredder-extrusion/modbus/mtestom). They also provide rock solid PLC support and with their cxProgrammer there's also lots of headroom to add simple displays later, relative cheap - they do also have affordable touchscreens btw. With Siemens I feel like paying the double just for the name, and still - the OS community didn't pick it up as Omron - just saying. A good touchscreen from Siemens is alone in the 2-3K range.

yah I should look into Omron as well which model number are you using. I see 3G3MX2-AB004-E is fairly cheap

6:57 PM

I should also look for motor/gearbox in case seimens is too expensive

MX2 series, yup ! right - it's the most integrated and supported. We use different models per machine, per KW and input voltage. Not sure how too look this up right, my supplier does this for me

Easiest is to enter on ebay, 'omron mx2 3kw' or so, and go from there.

7:02 PM

If you have trouble let me know, I have also some easy Arduino code already in place: idle, jam, activity (auto-stop), ...

I will keep you in mind for code once I get there. Now I need to find alternative motor/gearbox .

also there, your next metal shop should have this for you in days on the table

mx2 series for 220V 3 phase looks like 3G3MX2-A2015 is 3.9 kw drive requires motor of 3 hp ... is that the hp size you use?

3kw at 220V - yup, support for 3.9Kw sounds right on - even though, I don't think anyone will push it that hard

7:56 PM

but hey, still have to wait for more client feedback - just got the first units out

7:57 PM

just make sure the motor supports 380v, with that the client can ditch the VFD later.

are you using same gearbox as on lydia v4 ?

ahm, not sure I understand but Fritz said the other day 1:5 but the overall quality coming out of that machine wasn't very convincing, so I went for 1:10

- that matches client experience/feedback, slower = better

what rpm was your motor top end?

1480 RPM - standard speed

so you would be 1480/10 or 148 rpm

that's right, with VFD you can push for max. 50% more - let's see what clients say - they usually never come back

except for buying more machines

(edited)

PP specs wants 263 rpm? seems fast then

it's extreme fast, we had similar screws before, pitch wise and slower was better, much slower - I guess it's because of this 'start a business' thing. no idea whats going

8:32 PM

could make sense though if you wanna fill up bricks ...

8:32 PM

the beams however looked all crap

Ok , 10:1 was many choices but 5:1 hardly any at 4 to 5 hp motor , 220 v 3 phase over here runs at 1750 rpm standard

8:35 PM

I found one suitable 5:1 for 500 Dollars Canadian or about 700 US dollars.

8:35 PM

https://www.emotorsdirect.ca/item/morse-206q140lr5

8:35 PM

seems expensive

8:36 PM

no sorry is 500 Canadian or 350 US my mistake

looks cute, I am not not convinced - input shaft size should be at least 30mm, better 35, 4Hp ish

@tomcat_meow - the reducer is the most expensive part on this thing, in the states you should get those for 250 - 400$, motor goes KG wise. I envy you getting it that cheap btw. I´d love to move the US, just for that. (edited)

did you ever get a price on the seimens motor gearbox PP put in their design? I still haven't got any price from them yet

No, i didn´t even bother, Siemens is not the brand for motors we´d support locally - or in our case, can´t afford in warranty cases... (edited)

did the fusion file get to you finally?

1:13 AM

just curious to know

no, please send it via dm as fusion archive or step just, welcome to fusion cloud f---ry

anyway, next monday i´ve guys checking designs around , no rush

1:23 AM

I have found another viable motor/reducer option that would work from NORD.com

6:34 PM

1

this guy built a shredder with a diy worm gear reducer https://youtu.be/fzZzXp9bBNU

diy chen

DIY mini shredder part 4：Sharp blade; 60:1 worm gear deceleration; ...

5:59 AM

also spotted this cool integrated stepper controller from robotdigg, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mymTYJk8whk very nice practical controller

RobotDigg Shanghai

RobotDigg stepper motor drive worm gear reducer

this pdf gives detailed workings for stepper calculations https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/manuals/surestepmanual/appxc.pdf

Does there exist any guide for building the machine optimized for tiny budgets? What is the absolute cheapest way to obtain the precious plastic machines via home improvement store parts, cheap online parts and cnc services, etc.? Does anything like this exist

8:08 AM

Obviously increased budget can increase quality of machines, with accessories, upgrades, better materials.. but the objective here is for functional machines

you can do a lot with a sandwich press.. or if you want to try a really basic injection process you can try like this https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/resin-cast-barrel-injector/index.html

Resin Cast-Barrel-Injector

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. ...

This is helpful! I am looking for guides to the official machines though. This would be good in the theme of low-budget options

What is low budget ? You can build each v3 machine below 1000 each. well, if you have all the gear , of course

(edited)

@Doeyo the machines are already designed to be as cheap as possible to build

8:17 AM

look for a second hand motor and gearbox maybe

Perhaps my question is more of an accessibility question rather than budget, but low budget is closely tied with high accessibility. I am interested in things like second hand, alternative parts, opportunities where contractors are cheaper than labor

laser cutting of sheet parts will save a lot of work

Ahh, okay, like the hopper components?

yes, nearly all the parts for the shredder are laser cut for example

@Deleted User impressive combination machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5DubnjAPCw

GD Custom Garage

How to make Plastic shredder and extruder Machine. DIY

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awesome, should be in the top 5 within the docs

10:41 AM

re sheetpress- I really feel bad drilling the press plate now as next

| made a hole marker punch template though, https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/sheetpress/cartridge_heater/press_plate_hole/index.html

Awesome to use the gravity pull too. The only problem could be steam build ups but maybe it is small enough

@Timberstar - what's the status on your smaller sheetpress ? I think we gonna just outsource the big one; not only it's too big for our shop but also to get a few iterations for free :-) However, the small one would be great and fits also better in nowadays budgets. 60cm is a great size - evtl. this can be also easier with a hydraulic jack - in the last version the mechanics involved seems a little scary too me (warranty, support wise).

Has anyone tried buiding a mouild for products like flip top cap ? can we make them with simple hand injection ? due to the recent covid 19 crisis these types of caps are in good demand in india as they are used for packaging of sanitizer

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6:15 PM

@Deleted User model is almost finished

10:17 PM

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dived in from a 3 day or so gap, what is that a render of?

new heat press in development

ah

10:18 PM

is it the roller based one or no?

?

so it is still batch pressed squares

amazing, looks like a real device, my congrats !

Don't leave that close to the posty

2

I think the fume hood should exceed the bounding box by around 20%, just to make sure, doors might be even safer, as on v4.1 sheetpress (your thing too )

(edited)

yea been thinking about doors but not sure which way they should open

10:57 PM

the hood can be extended a bit no problem

11:00 PM

not sure about hydraulic though, the point of this design was to use a stepper to allow automation

all good, no worry, will do this on the go, simple version as well, great stuff, let´s try talking this weekend, finally

for a hydraulic driven machine it makes more sense to just have a cylinder directly in line like the current press

11:03 PM

but it takes up a lot more space

as long it fit´s in the same package, i don´t mind, doesn´t need to be super fancy

thats what i mean, it wont

11:07 PM

i think hydraulics will be more expensive too, when we add the pump and everything, its pretty complicated too

11:08 PM

we'll see

okok, yeah - let´s talk nema34 and gearbox, if the drive interface could be outside, so folks can connect whatever they want ... perfect

11:09 PM

that would be the deluxe, happy already with less

i calculated for nema 23 and worm reducer, nema 34 is too big to fit

11:10 PM

calcs are on the readme

if 23 is fine, we´re all set

thinking to do the collar like this

11:11 PM

for the leadscrew (edited)

11:11 PM

so we can have the interface outside the box, looks like, no ?

so that the OD of the new section of shaft is the same as the screw, because we need to slide the bearings on from both ends

11:12 PM

what interface, GUI?

no, interface to the leadscrew, in a way the motor can be outside, but don´t bother - if you say 23 is fine, let´s try

no we cant do that because the motor is mounted on one of the moving parts of the mechanism

yeah, was afraid of that, let´s try

i think it will work

i trust you more than me (edited)

11:17 PM

this is the mechanism for adusting the sheet thickness

holy f

11:18 PM

sombody loves it

you should be able to use the lower bed to raise and lower it, maybe with a sheet inbetween to set the thickness, then slide those things across so the bolts have something solid to push against, although the connection will be mostly by friction when the bolts are tightened up again

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11:20 PM

i found arduino code for simple 2 button control up/down

11:21 PM

not sure where to mount the buttons

no need, doing this analogue -)

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will it have some mm ticker/dial/marking for thickness

it could have something just marked on the side, but really you just set it with the mould or with a dummy sheet. you have to take the side off to adjust the height so its not something you do all the time, and not when it's hot

11:30 PM

the advantage of doing it that way is that the platens are set perfectly parallel to each other even if not level

guys, with all your stories of presses I end up drifting away. Look at this :D https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schubert-Hydraulic-Veneer-Press-Split-Platten-Fully-working-Bargain/114245010787?hash=item1a99888563:g:~h0AAOSwUIhe1SKw#viTabs_0

Schubert Hydraulic Veneer Press, Split Platten. Fully working Bargain

Schubert Hydraulic Veneer Press, Split Platten. Full working order. Adjustable pressure & release. Was originally into three platterns. Now one large plattern, with new Stainless Steel plates. Can be changed easily to three, Just need to release the locking plates & cut the top.

yeah, that was our wood´s guru´s recommendation too - i´d love to see it working, he still has it in the back yard, i hope.

11:35 PM

not that easy to ship

it doesnt have heated plates, and adding them would be pretty awkward

oven first just though

would be excellent for stacking the finished sheets though for cooling

just for reference, pizza oven is around 700, the press above around 2k, that´s still 1k under v4

+ repair fees, +hydraulic pump fix, +transport = total f** too much, compared to a brand new v4 doing possibly way better, on a 1/3 the space

yea i definitely think a smaller size will be more appropriate for most folks, realistically floorspace you need 9x the footprint of a machine minimum. Particularly in this case, you need at least the length of the sheet before you hit a wall with it when taking it out

yeah, lets go for your 60cm, can´t wait (edited)

i was thinking too, although the idea of big sheets seems attractive, they migh t not be as useful as they look, since they cant be really used in construction

and only with special fire additives, just for reference, big sheets as 1.20 x 2.40 are indeed requested, makes most of our v4 customers, mostly in construction (edited)

i think using them to make medium sized stuff with CNC will be good, slot and tab style, id like to know if anyones given it a try

i don´t think so - in top, most sheets I´ve seen are looking really weird, seems to need extra grinding to get a smooth color, no idea.

i think its a bit early to tell from customers what will really work in the end, big sheets will be great but we need to really nail it with a smaller one first i think

yup, but then CNC, there are also unchallenged issues though, haven´t seen anyone cutting plastic quite right yet

12:37 AM

remember the v4 saw, CNC cutting posts ?

no?

came out terrible, but ok for trials lets say

12:38 AM

i am piggy though

yea machining plastic is not really ideal, better mould it how you want it to start with... there is scope for flat moulds for the press though...

it can work, just f*** flood it, as in the books

12:41 AM

see machinist hand book, special page for plastic

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also was thinking about @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland 's extrustion die project... wondering if it could maybe make H section extruded beams which the sheets could slot into

somebody said that extrusion dies need different plastic, @† Alexandre or so, 7 months ago or so

with a small sheetpress and an extruder you could produce the two components together, could make a range of basic stuff

12:43 AM

yea maybe just extruding into a beam mould in the normal way would be better

12:44 AM

need an L section one too for corners

right, need to sleep - having a real odd day with my new forklift tomorrow, I love that thing, would love to sleep with it

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12:45 AM

cool, chat soon

12:45 AM

good luck with it

no luck needed, it changed already everything, using it now also movable weld table, free** awesome.

12:47 AM

and I can park stuff as a half sheetpress, 100kg+ somewhere in the cloud

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiLWI62N5pc bedtime video, fall asleep to feeds and speeds

Carbide 3D

HDPE Machining Guide for the Nomad CNC - #MaterialMonday

Considering the number of HDPE pipes I collect on the beach there must be someone which can manage to extrude these guys

someone's probably done it already, it seems like an obvious idea.. maybe could be assembled with rivets

like these but PP http://plastic-panels.co.uk/plastic-panels-accessories/

wow, I just got the seimens pricing for the exact same motor/reducer PP is using in their design... 1885 Canadian which translates to approx. 1403 American dollars... kind of expensive in my opinion

4:24 PM

and that is buying direct from Seimens in Canada with no distributor

over engineered meets overpriced

don't worry you can go with way less on this machine, v4 is rather just a rough guidance, for those who need it

(edited)

6:40 PM

if the client really wants it 8/5, spend the money better on heatbands, safety, comfort, connectivity,...

how much do you consider way less? I know rpm's can be way less now but hp for the motor and torque requirements for gearbox

HEY does ANYONE have built / are building the shredder PRO? I have come across this issue: On the materials list there's this hexagonal steel C45 bar, of 50mm diameter and 1800mm large But all sellers in my country only have by standard the 2" diameter ones, which is 50.80mm, is it OK to use it without cutting off the 0.8mm??

I don't know the states, but here you get can get for 560E a real good engine with gearbox; possibly I am just lucky because I am getting those directly within an industrial supply chain. However, 600-700$ is a good price for the drive, I wouldn't spend less, or more - for this machine - it's just a bigger v3 extruder

6:44 PM

Til today we couldn't get any feedback, explanations - for some of the weird things in the v4 delivery - that's why we also opted for rethinking it just. (edited)

@lujc - yes, just cut it down with the face mill, see https://precious-plastic.org/pp/howto/shredder/hexbar/index.html#IMG_2316.JPG, it's 15 mins work

who makes the 560E gearbox?

no idea, i get it as bundle with the motor - there is no plate on it.

6:57 PM

looks like a SITI style gearbox

6:58 PM

the motor sounds like a jet engine

(edited)

@tomcat_meow - but again, I'd always ask my next metal shop in such case- show them the design and the motor specs - also ask the client what they wanna do with it - I don't think SMEs would by a PP Extruder for 5-6K, there is better for them.

7:11 PM

I wouldn't bother searching on websites for a motor, this size. You want warranty and good support. (edited)

7:15 PM

Besides, you may wanna partner up anyways with a good metal shop, doing this sort of machines - consider it your second home soon

Hi EVERYONE! I was wondering does anyone

have plans for making led light bulbs
how long does it take from melting plastic to intrusion mold then finished product? ( goal is to make diffuser & housing for led light bulb)

pretty ambitious project, worth following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkuVwBqNr4k

Nick Osborn

DIY SLS 3D Printer || Part 1

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Which machines are required for producing beams please tell me I have plastic pelllets like these available I just want to produce beams

extruder

Will these work fine?

HEY does ANYONE have built / are building the shredder PRO? I have come across this issue: On the materials list there's this hexagonal steel C45 bar, of 50mm diameter and 1800mm large But all sellers in my country only have by standard the 2" diameter ones, which is 50.80mm, is it OK to use it without cutting off the 0.8mm??

@lujc I am working on this but after looking around for people to help me build this and also comparing to buying one from factory its so much better to buy it ready builded

@ciscolara @lujc you can adjust the sizing of the blade holes to match. If you'd like, I have tested files for the blades that will fit.

nice design for a large sheetpress https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9nYgMtxWFY

maquiventa maq

Madera Plastica

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10:12 AM

and a cool cheapo shreder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOtk4fB_hng

RCPE channel

Molino para picar tapitas plásticas

@Timberstar Lol that soundtrack! Incredible set up though.

pretty ambitious project, worth following https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkuVwBqNr4k

@Timberstar this guy just opened a discord server

Nick Osborn

DIY SLS 3D Printer || Part 1

@Deleted User A few days ago, you give me the link to download the corrected Extruder Pro files, but the guys from the workshop who are helping me with it, told me that it still has these six errors with missing files: 1.- C: \ Users \ Vincent \ Google Drive \ PPV4.7 \ EFC5610-3K00-DRIVE.SLDPRT 2.- C: \ Users \ Vincent \ Google Drive \ PPV4.7 \ EFC5610-3K00.SLDPRT 3.- C: \ Users \ Vincent \ Google Drive \ PPV4.7 \ PT - PPV4.2 - Extruder - MB.SLDPRT 4.- C: \ Users \ alexa \ Google Drive \ Projets \ Precious Plastic \ 01 - Extruder \ V4 Extruder development \ CAD \ PPV4.7 \ PT - PPV4.2 - Extruder - MB.SLDPRT 5.- C: \ Users \ alexa \ Google Drive \ Projets \ Precious Plastic \ 01 - Extruder \ V4 Extruder development \ CAD \ PPV4.7 \ PT - PPV4.2 - Motor gearbox flange.sldprt 6.- C: \ Users \ gebruiker \ Google Drive \ V4 Extruder development \ CAD \ PPV4.7 \ PT - PPV4.2 - Extruder - MB.SLDPRT Can you help me to complete the file? They also asked me about the type of steel that would be used ... is there any specification on the kind of steel that is required to manufacture the parts?

1:38 AM

¿Do you know who sell these Extruder Pro in México? mabe it will more efective to start with it.

I think you don't really need this files but please try this one here : https://a360.co/3efibwd | you can download there a STEP file as well and it seems that the STEP file in the download kit is kinda complete.

@Aurelio : I checked again, yes - there were still broken references - I fixed them all. You can download it here again : https://library.precious-plastic.org/machines/extrusion-pro.html . (edited)

@Aurelio hello what are you looking for? If I can help you let me know, I am from Mexico and the fact is that we need to adapt this design to our country

2:55 AM

I am already starting to analyze pro extruder and I already quote mechanical side, maybe we can order 2 pieces and with better price

@Deleted User Again a thousand thanks for the help. I'm downloading the file to take it to the workshop

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5:32 PM

@Luis_OE Yes it will bee a good and cheaper way. ¿Have you registered in de México chat? I prefer to write in spanish.

i will look into that sls printer!

5:45 PM

i was watching / reading some projects on OS-IJB printers and this other "new" method of making a powder crucible with metal powder inside all out of powder layer by layer:

5:46 PM

IJB :

5:46 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIVdwP0RAN8

ytec3d

Oasis 3DP, an open source powder and inkjet 3D printer

5:46 PM

Powder Crucible One:

5:46 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDl57RmASyA

iro3d

What is iro3d metal 3D printer

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Hi. I want information regarding security, ventilation and filter. We gonna have our sheet press running soon. Thnak you

@Pat from our investigation :

put a powerful 800W + fan and suck it out
to make sure it's contained, wrap it up with - with doors - this is being added soon in the v4 sheetpress upgrades, unofficial - https://library.precious-plastic.org/machines/sheetpress-cell.html - send me a DM to get notifications.

(edited)

9:23 PM

In a month more or less we have another audit on this system. (edited)

@Deleted User thank you I will check this link. I don't get your second point about doors....I am looking for info for the filter...carboned? DM means direct message?

DM, yes = direct message. I think @Timberstar worked a little on filters for this system. About doors: It seems the hood is too small and it seems to need doors (complete enclosure for the heating part).

9:41 PM

There was also some material about fumes in the forum and on youtube. Still you have to check this with your local regulations - it's wise to consult an expert in some cases (indoors).

@Pat There was a recommendation on the forum that an activated carbon filter is the most practical way of dealing with VOCs in this context. Available from your nearest hydroponics supplier

then, for the enclosure and door, Jason Knight - the author of the sheetpress worked out a nice system ; had no time to full document it yet, but here it is : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/_projects/SheetPressOven/cad We might combine this later this year into v4 - safety & fumes concerns are top prio.

@Timberstar @Deleted User thank you guys I will check this out (edited)

@Deleted User I can't open or download anything in the second link you send from Jason Knight...do I need something special to do it?

hang on

here´s a 3d preview, you can download the format you like https://a360.co/3f78cJY (edited)

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1:07 AM

and here some videos : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRLoxLaxTU @Pat - here a zip, http://precious-plastic.org/products/soven.zip (edited)

is the person who made that video on this discord?

sometimes, @jasonknight - he´s rather shy

idk if it was even recorded with something with a mic, or what but the video does have no audio fyi. not certain if intentional (which is fine) or via accident

marcin has been diving into this today and probabbly will keep chipping at this for the week:

3:47 AM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Shredder_3D_CAD

Open Source Shredder 3D CAD

3:47 AM

a fork of sorts

3:47 AM

i don't know all the technical changes etc but feel free to check it out

This 5% tax feels a bit off brand for Precious Plastic. I've read through the comments and if there was an answer from an official member of the team, I missed it.

@Eric Lotze interesting design but i think he will be disappointed, it's just not going to be strong enough if it's not metal. he could try shredding some plastic in an office paper shredder hooked up to a high torque power source like a hand drill. he will see how much the metal flexes and the gears grind even with just a few small pieces of milk jug. not even the tough part around the bottle neck...

@tomcat_meow you asked a few days ago about the brand of worm drive reducers used... for design and reference purposes I have been using Motovario since they have all the CAD models online. There are other brands which build to the same pattern NRV 040 https://b2b.partcommunity.com/3d-cad-models/sso/nrv-worm-reduction-unit-with-input-shaft-motovario?info=motovario%2Fmotoriduttori_e_riduttori%2Fvite_senza_fine%2Fnrv_asmtab.prj&cwid=3444 (edited)

The cooling bath is almost in place. I sincerely hope that the ceiling attachments are really as strong as claimed... But without more room we have no choice. It is a galvanized planter, I plan to run 50x50 beams through it.

7

@Deleted User if I understand well, there a prototype of an oven with a complete closed integrated ventilation and the idea is to integrate this concept to the sheetpress?

in one of these channels

11:26 PM

pp cat and all them are making it

not sure about 'integrated', the current design has an extraction hood, I have read that an activated carbon filter is suitable, but i would not mount this on the press since it should not get hot. Better to run flexible extractor hose to a separate exhaust unit comprising inline fan and filter with venting to outside@Pat (edited)

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Hey guys, I'm looking for the shredder pro(with two axles) blueprint and files for laser cutting, I already watch the videos, download the full kit file (700mb) and theyre for the smaller machine, can somebody give me the link for that info? thanks

someone asked this yesterday or so i think

5:15 AM

need me to dig for a link, or are you finding it on your own? (edited)

All of the Pro files are in Build>Shredder Pro in the main download kit.

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland did you get to test your cooler? i'd love to hear how it went

@Timberstar it is not finished, I need to make a collector and the water circuitry. I have been delayed because I am lame at brazing

heh i think its ok to be lame at brazing, not the easiest of skills to learn i imagine..

11:17 AM

im excited about the cooler though, it represents quite an advance towards continuous production (edited)

In my opinion there is no other way. Each mould cost at least £400 for the beams and the finish is not nice. All my tests of proper extrusion show excellent results of finish. So it would make it more affordable too. At the moment the budget of the cooling is c. £1000 but that's mainly because I am testing lots of stuff that doesn't work

11:19 AM

Then you need a puller and a cutter

11:19 AM

and we can fight the big industry

yea! the puller would be some kind of driven rollers i guess? cutter should be relatively straightforward, something like a mitre saw maybe

11:23 AM

or maybe a hot wire/blade... less microparticles

I have seen 2 models, conveyor belts or bands for the puller. Yes the cutter is not necessarily easy. Probably at first you should slow the extrusion and cut

11:24 AM

many use a mitre saw

11:24 AM

maybe heated

hm i dont think heating a moving blade would work, i was thinking more like a guillotine

You can use brushes

11:26 AM

if it is HDPE it only needs to be 90 degs to avoid deformation around the cut

11:27 AM

you need a plain blade

11:27 AM

or you use what they use in the piping business some rotational blade

11:28 AM

it is not that expensive

Easy ;) https://www.reedmfgco.com/assets/Images/Products/Cutters-and-Cutter-Wheels/Rotary-Cutters/_resampled/SetRatioSize600550-RC42S_in_use_up.jpg

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how long is the die you will extrude through? is it heated or cooled?

cooled die, that's the plan

11:41 AM

I am starting with 5cm

ok quite short... yea this is gonna be really interesting

11:43 AM

will the die be inside the cooler tank or have a separate cooling system?

I have tried with 10 in forms and it is enough

11:44 AM

I can stack thicnesses, not really an issue for now

11:45 AM

Once I have a better idea of the cooling capacities etc I will get it laser cut and have a bolted system that should be way way cheaper (but we would need to get money somewhere for that)

11:46 AM

The die is having a separate cooling system

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11:46 AM

1

11:47 AM

the bars are coper pipes here

11:47 AM

the drilled blocks are extruded aluminium

11:47 AM

and in blue it is soft steel

11:48 AM

My struggle is to get the pipes and the blocks tight

11:48 AM

there is such a heat sink in the aluminium and the pipes that is really really hard to braze

ok wow!

This is hopefully a game cahnger but I feel quite stretched an lonely to be honest. Also it is a maelstrom of money

is it that shape so that you can adjust the aperture size?

yes

11:51 AM

Any bar/batten dimension from 2mm to 120

11:51 AM

And I suppose with some smart desing on the clamps you can probably go higher range

11:52 AM

Depends how much money I put in the steel really

11:52 AM

I was thinking 12 thick but it might need more as you can't really weld this with the angle precision

11:53 AM

I need to thread it

Hello freinds how are u ? I need help build pet bottle recycling to fiber staple i see some video on YouTube small machine https://youtu.be/FPXO5qs4WOk If u got any idea please let me know Thanks all

Сергей Добриян

Полиэфирное волокно

This is a thermal method like this (forget the name) :

11:58 PM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashspun_fabric

Flashspun fabric

Flashspun fabric is a nonwoven fabric formed from fine fibrillation of a film by the rapid evaporation of solvent and subsequent bonding during extrusion. A pressurised solution of, for example, HDPE or polypropylene in a solvent such as fluoroform is heated, pressurised and p...

11:58 PM

esentially "cotton candy" but with plastic instead of sugar

11:58 PM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_candy

Cotton candy

Cotton candy is a spun sugar confection that resembles cotton. It usually contains small amounts of flavoring or food coloring.The candy is made by heating and liquefying sugar, spinning it centrifugally through minute holes—by which the sugar rapidly cools and re-solidifies i...

@Eric Lotze thanks Eric i really need more information and i appreciate your help

Feel free to @ me anytime

@Eric Lotze thanks again

5:23 AM

Garage build

4

it is called a spinnerette for making polyester fiberfill... you can essentially make fiberfill exactly like cotton candy if you can get the machine hot enough

there was a linear one too "reel to reel"

3:04 PM

spray forming/blow forming (not blow molding though)

3:04 PM

for filters/flat pack insulation

Hi guys, I'm currently planning about building the shredder+extrusion machine, i'm checking the zoe of p-hub but i'm not completely sure about which knifes should i use for the shredder, i'm also looking the possiblity to aquire one, I'm in middle south Chile. please contact me u can help, thanks!!

you should PM pp-hub (pp catalonia here on discord) or via one of their other social media accounts (Facebook, instagram) for more info ! :) (edited)

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@Deleted User you are looking for a motor for which shredder in particular? What is the style of your local AC power available?

Hi community, we are currently in the process of building a SheetPress machine in Argentina. Would like to get in contact with other members who have done this, to learn from their experience. Is there anyone out there?

Primero (mi espanol is muy malo fyi lol) tu si usar espanol, MUY BIEN (imo) en #latin americs channel

5:13 AM

y transatadoras (malo espanol por yo lol)

5:13 AM

also we can use english too!

5:13 AM

so no need to be forced is what i mean

5:14 AM

@ccarrilloo is muy bien en espanol y muy bien translatadora (if you even need one lol, you may be better at english than me!)

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5:15 AM

ANYWHO (edited)

5:15 AM

try #🍌latin-america and also i can ask around, best of luck!

@holis : We collect, and fix issues here : https://library.precious-plastic.org/machines/sheetpress-cell.html#build, we also maintain the original which you can find in the same page. There are a number of serious issues with the original design, I hope we have it up and running next, a complete build report will follow.

Sheetpress - Cell

Precious Plastic - Machine : Sheetpress :: Sheetpress - Cell

1

5:02 PM

Anyone else interested building the sheetpress, don't buy the heat glue for near 130e mentioned in the BOM - it's complete useless and impossible to fill up the gap between cartridge heaters and the block. Anyone who wants the HeatBrisk pot, let me know - we send it free of charge to you

(edited)

@holis , #archived-machines , I'd like to add also that the sheetpress turns out really difficult to build - even though you have the best tools and machines at hand. Biggest problem is bend laser cuts (it just bends) as well the tubings and of course, having actually something flat you can build on. One little mistake can set you back in days and it's brutal hard to re-make the structural part; once you have to press plate connected to the frame and structure - it's impossible to move alone - even with forklift - it's brutal and dangerous . Our advise is to stay from this design until we have better solutions to deal with all the problems. For now we're using set and level screws all over the place, still - it's not exactly 'sexy' - yet you can make it. I think we also gonna outsource the whole thing - it's just not meant to be build in a workshop - that's a job for bigger metal shops (ie: 10Ton cranes, and the like..). Also some items in the BOM are rather hard to source. If you still want to make it, double the time just, instead of 4 weeks, count on 3 months - assuming you do this more on the side as us. - currently we call it here the black hole

(edited)

@holis recently saw this from some folks in South Korea that made it (without complaining

) https://www.instagram.com/p/CBHzMlSHdCp/?igshid=x1nba1g2xbzk

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5

yeah - this looks always easy in those goofy videos - til you have to actually make it - precise and good - with local assets and services ... (edited)

8:16 PM

it's probably ok to make this DIYish with little means but for a production horse, it's quite another story ...

8:18 PM

I am actually surprised you still didn't put at least a little note about the 12mm hole and the HeatBrisk non sense

8:18 PM

No worry, and as always - the community figures this out forya, with every build, every time - welcome to 'one' - army (edited)

8:23 PM

And no, @davehakkens - I didn't complain - we're here to report and warn folks running into trouble - unlike you folks - we take this issues serious - and if we can avoid harm to others - well, we say it- takes a few seconds to put notes in the build section. The damages building on the sheetpress alone is already 2-3 k lost for surprises. Thanks for that !

3

Also no worry - we got it - in PP - there are no problems, trust the king just

I think everyone knows building things is hard, and it's true, localized solutions can compound difficulties. That what machine builders do though, we tackle the hard stuff right? Sometimes people are that good where they make it look easy. Not a problem, no one said this was Ikea.

Yeah - anyway - feel free to merge our reports, recommendations, fixes, warnings into Academy, it's mostly MD - if you love the details of it though

(edited)

8:48 PM

I think in a month or so, we might have another iteration, in top of ours - for free - done by our metal shop gurus. We will update accordingly.

8:50 PM

aka, it just can get better and cheaper, no ? (edited)

2

Hi, I'm new here... I want to build the shredder and the extruder... but I have zero metal works experience and mechanical, although have some electronics skills... I don't know how to start... can some one help point a direction for me?

3:53 PM

Oh yeah sorry for my english... I'm from Indonesia... I'm not that good with english

@Darwin Liem the best way to start (imo) its learning the most important info on the academy of https://www.preciousplastic.com (edited)

Say hi to the Precious Plastic Universe

The alternative plastic recycling system run by people.

Hi I would like to build a shredder and extrusion space as well

So, I'm planning on making a better shredder since I've found the precious plastic one to be pretty unreliable in terms of dimensional stability and mounting. Having taken a look at some of the commercial options out there, the single shaft shredders most seem to comprise of bearings positioned inside the case, with an end plate bolted on, with the end plates sometimes milled to keep the end of the shaft enclosed. The twin shaft shredders seem to be the same for the most part, but with an longer body and an enclosed section containing the gears for driving both shafts together. The blades on the side seem to generally be secured by bolts from the outside, but some of them are closer to the precious plastic design, but rather than using threaded rods, they use dovetails, and the blades are slid in. The blades on the main shaft vary, some are a single cylinder with locations for hardened steel blades to be screwed in, others are rather complex sets of blades that are a single piece of metal. A few also use the same kind of blade design as the current precious plastic design. The most notable difference is that they seem to be milled rather than cut from steel sheets. Does anyone have any other useful information to add to this?

I´d consider multi pass shredding if you´re after a one-catch-all design. Supported input and output constraints have a big play in this; feeding and comfort can be also better adjusted in a multi-pass system.

in terms of stability and mounting, this here below turned out good enough though, some of the frame parts should be thicker - problem is rather the holding structure to the motor, it still manages to twist a 15mm thick and 20cm wide steel blade, by around 1mm at peak times. steel tubes or worst, aluminium beams are rather a bad choice IMO - the couplings won't like it.

Extruded beams just need extra stability designed into it. We've done plenty this way and haven't ever had issue with a frame, but we take great care in our method to design for strength. (edited)

Sure thing; I treat shredders as CNC mills, any flex anywhere and you loose

I also remember the laughter every-time from my mentors when showing them something with Aluminium in it whilst holding weights and stresses near a motor bike. From what I've seen in our partnershop, they use laser cut structures everywhere, also for way less demanding machines - I gonna follow this lead though. We have the v4 shredder soon for longer testing on our table - I guess we design a similar structures around it. Btw. we had a few times feedback from clients, being happy we don't use beams, etc.. Anyways, I guess that all depends on the usage/application. For DIYish cases it's probably ok. @MicroTransactionsMatterToo - would be great if you could add more details about where or how you want to use the shredder. I don't think there is a universal design out there.

Btw. 'Machinery's Handbook' (https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/083113092X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has amazingly easy to understand sections about those matters - for lots and lots of other nice sections, incl. business . That would be the long and fun way around figuring whether you're in tolerances or, you just hold the dial indicator on it during high load and see what's going on, at 1000Nm

Hello! I'll like to know if there is some free opensource blueprints for a compress hexagon mould for tiles. I'll also consider tu buy one if is in the US área, if someone can build it for me. Thankss awesome people!

@clau.f do you need a specific dimension?

It's my understanding that a few people around our community that have CE'ed the official Precious Plastic machines. Anyone have access to those drawings? (edited)

no, unfortunately not - there´s only one who claims this but even though, it seems odd because it´s not exactly in the CE´s guide lines, judging it superficially. CE´ing PP original seems rather odd, control panels, framework, and hoppers need to be redesigned, slightly. Why you´re asking ? As said, we´re more concerned about ISOs, first.

I'd like to see our development go more in that direction. Should help open up access to customers who require CE certified machines. Which workspace is the one who claims it?

Easy find on the bazar ;-) CE isn´t really the more requested, saying this as ´top´ seller

I think there should be at least 1-2 more iterations for each major versions before actually considering, this was also the consensus of the consultants we had here on the subject.

10:44 PM

Have a look at 3devo shredder, it´s CE. first thing folks do there, is to remove the annoying hopper as said - it´s a kinda farce

I would say CE is mandatory to sell machine in general on the European market according to 2006/42/ec. Sure it is just small guidline to be respected, but not following them engage the builder. And basically, it combine with ISO, as the request is to build the machines according to recognised standard. (edited)

hm! never had seen this 3devo shredder before. Pretty cool

@Yann , that´s why most sell kits to get around. (edited)

10:47 PM

@Joseph - cool, but - just doesn´t work this way, what´s missing is an auto-plunger to get over, near finish.

Yes, make sense, the person considered as the responsible builder, is the on who deliver a functional machine. I will go deeper into it in the following weeks, I used to certify pressure parts before PP, the logic is similar, but still not so straight forward to summarize yet.

Yup, that´s how we do it here, use CE components everywhere, calculated risk as well well assuming the worst possible cases. We had one incident so far (user instruction issue). Most clients who push around first about standards understand after some long talks on the phone - that we do our best and that no one wants any trouble - works well so far - having nice climate with them. (edited)

@Deleted User Yeah, I was thinking something a bit more substantial than that, 4 thick steel plates bolted together rather a bunch welded and then bolted together. Also want to use a design with the bearings seated inside the casing. If possible it'd be nice to be able to just dump entire bottles in, but that's more down to torque than design. Want to use end product in an extruder for 3d printer filament, so need a reasonably fine screen on the output. A granulator seems like it's intended for stuff that's already been shredded, and I'd rather just use one machine if I can, although a fly knife granulator seems fairly simple to build. I'll wait till I'm in Polytech to start a design, then I can get advice from tutors and whatnot

@MicroTransactionsMatterToo , multipass, that has been done commercially and small scale by 3devo as well. Basically A single axle shredder with a higher speed granulator underneath, at 500RPM or so. There is a PPish equivalent to it as well, tested (works great but needs iterations) : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/blob/master/_projects/Grinder/overview.jpg. I guess, you´ve seen this already, not sure though. @sharma.sagar94 posted here some nice stuff regarding this, a few months ago.

Hmm, right. Well, I might design a shredder first, and leave room to attach a granulator to it later on

11:22 PM

Thanks for the info

yeah - it was connected via strong timing belts, on a 0.75Kw, 1:50

11:23 PM

the belt breaks after some time, 1000 thousand bottles or so-

hello please can someone direct me where as to find the blueprints for the shredder Pro machine and a bill of materials

hello @studio21 you may find all needed blueprints in this download kit : https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/releases/download/V4.1/precious-plastic-kit.zip

Hi all, I've received a shredder from the bazaar and have connected it to a motor and have been making flakes, it's a slow process really, as I don't want to overheat my motor. The above link with a granulator looks like a really good idea, but I was wondering if there's an easier way of doing this? I've seen videos on Youtube of people using blenders, which would have issues with overly blending your plastic into dust, but maybe you could replace the plastic/glass jug of the blender with a steel jug with holes in it so when the plastic is blended and thrown around, they'll fly through the holes when they get to a small enough size?

1

11:32 AM

I'm going to think about it, but just wondered if anyone's already tried this.

@ciscolara @lujc you can adjust the sizing of the blade holes to match. If you'd like, I have tested files for the blades that will fit.

@CitSciWorkshop Please! send me the files 8) will be of great help plasmohub@gmail.com

Hello, Can anyone tell their experience with the v4 shredder, if the is any issues with the files, or improves made?

@lujc I am working on this but after looking around for people to help me build this and also comparing to buying one from factory its so much better to buy it ready builded

@ciscolara yeah, our B plan is engaging with some metal shop for such benefit but here we have a good network to engage in fixing this ourselves first... we'll see

4:51 PM

Hello, Can anyone tell their experience with the v4 shredder, if the is any issues with the files, or improves made?

@ccarrilloo i've seen this improve here https://library.precious-plastic.org/machines/zoe.html if it is the case you want to extrude then after shredding

Extrusion & Shredder Combo ‘Zoe’

Precious Plastic - Machine : Shredder_extrusion_combo :: Extrusion & Shredder Combo ‘Zoe’

1

I should mention that Zoe's docs are still incomplete (couplings, CAM, BOM) and it's more for advanced skill sets - and machining - should be all there and ready to go next week. That might be the last iteration, the devil is in the detail - machining and sourcing wise. (edited)

1

5:28 PM

@Kiwi - didn't forget you, will ping you when it's up.

1

5:32 PM

@ccarrilloo - Btw, it's not a v4 shredder - yet

the official version misses only unimportant parts and I've heard about one issue for now. hang on, (edited)

5:33 PM

here's the v4 shredder first issue ever reported : https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/605686860324536320/717066821672632371 - makes sense

@Deleted User Thanks for being so helpful mate!

do u know if that issue has been solved?

Not yet, @ShrednMelt_Xu found a work-around but still waiting for reports, can take a while since this beast is pretty expensive - we pay here 1300e for the laser cut - friend price

5:52 PM

- - - - -- - - - -- - - - - -- - - - -- - - - - - -- - - - - - -

Btw. guys, having now most of v4 machines on the table - turns out that lots of things in BOMs are way more expensive and inaccessible outside of NL. c19 also added another extra 20% supplier fees - not to mention the delays but also lot's of stuff is just out of stock. For quite - some machines we've sold 3 months ago but ship now, we walk out with near nothing. Quite a lesson.

- - - - -- - - - -- - - - - -- - - - -- - - - - - -- - - - - - -

(edited)

That's a real good price for the cuts, I'm searching the prices here in Chile so I can adapt it to our commerce, I'll keep that in mind about the 20% 'coz c19. thanks for sharing those important lessons!

Another thing we learned is that sourcing from cheap online platforms isn't always the best idea - as far we know - those stores are usually ruining the local economy. In return, I understand now the importance to document components 'properly', together with it's actual function & possible alternatives, OS project wise though. For instance, it took us 12+ months to dial in the production of v3ish machines, and yet we're lacking better sources for certain things. I guess, v4 will take also another 12 months to fully adopt locally - well, if you have certain policies though

'start your business', now

Guys, I need some knowledge, I am living in an apartment with minimum flats, and I am planning to do some entry level plastic recycling. Have about 600 Sq ft of space. Is there some possibility of making a small scale injection machine..? If yes, how much would it cost and where do I buy parts and how do I build it.

Is there a shredder workspace near you? If not you might need to build or buy a shredder

12:20 PM

@tumstech

Yes, I am building one shredder as well, I got some ides for that locally, but I am not able to get ideas or support locally for injection machine...

Hmmm have you watched this video?

3:22 PM

Should help you in some way @tumstech

3:23 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtZv96ciFIU

davehakkens

Precious Plastic - Build the injection

Thanks for the link... Will take a look...

hello does anyone have a recommendation for a motor for the extrusion machine? I am having trouble finding one online and have seen mixed results about what is acceptable. I don't want to spend money on something that won't work. Trying to build one for part of a senior project! Any help would be very appreciated.

@ninjacrab - see motor section, classic, https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/extrusion/ - the motor and reducer is around 300$. 0.75KW seem to be the limit for most local online retailers here in the EU.

I live in the USA and unfortunately do need to find something by a certain time for my project. Do you think that this or something similar would work with a reducer? https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Electric-Motor-Frame-Diameter/dp/B07D2G6GYC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=electric+motor&qid=1592691345&sr=8-4

You might consider an electric winch motor. I bought a 1500w, 60rpm, winch that has an output of about 300nm. The best thing is it's already wired, forward, reverse, emergency stop. If you search for PA800 electric motor you'll see pictures, I know Harbour Freight sell something that looks identical, so is probably the same thing.

hello. I've tried to locate the cad designs for the v1 shredder cutter assembly but couldn't find them in the site. are they not recommended anymore. to me they looked simpler, easyer to gett started

Hello, are there just step or solidworks files from the Shredder? I have some problems whit the dxf files. And in the zip there is only a step file of the hole machine.

@ninjacrab Try doing searches using the terms AC 110/220VAC 2hp 1PH 1800 (or 1450, but 1800 is more common) 56C TEFC motor

8:50 PM

notably, 56C is the type of face that adapts for most gear reducers.

To open the solidworks archives of the extruder machine, what solidworks version do I need? I tried using 2018 it does not let me

can you open the files in freecad and/or onshape ?

Tried freecad it says it does not support

@Adex18 have you tried Fusion 360? They have a free license for startups.

Ok I will try it

I *believe this video explains it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ew8N0h9ohFY

SPARK PLUG

How to open solidworks file in fusion 360 - fusion 360 tips and tricks

Hi guys I'm new to the group and am having a hard time finding the plans for the blades to get water jet cut out. Im not sure if I want to puchase a pre bult machine or if i should purchase one and have it shipped from prescious plastic. Ive been wanting to make a shredder fora while and feel confidnet getting the pre built shredder (box with the blades) and fabricating the rest (table, hopper and motor attachment. If anyone can tell me where i can geth the blade plans for the shredder to have them cut out locally or if anyone has any feedback if its better to buy the pre made blade set up please let me know.

7:20 AM

Also, i was wondeirng if anyohe has attemped to make a shredder with table saw dado blades. Just an idea and curios if anyones attempted it.

found these for wiring up machines a few weeks ago. Ordered them and used yesterday. WOW. this saved a ton of time and my wiring looks better

i HATE screw terminals

4:09 AM

made an entire article on OSE wiki on it lol

4:09 AM

i've seen those for led strips

I was using brass bus bar for one build but this one was awesome for my injection mold build. it used 2 of these. but if one temp controller than only need one unit.

question... what rpm is goodd for the v3 extrusion screw? I was running about 60 but it seemss slow

5:07 AM

i have heard over 100 rpm and higher?

@Butte (PP Philippines) we put a VSD on ours as its all depends on the type of plastic, the quality of out put changes with different speeds and types.

@Butte (PP Philippines) I think you need a faster motor, that would allow you to go up to 300RPM and as said before, having a VSD to make it slower when needed. If you want to go simpler I guess a speed fixed around 150RPM should do most of the job.

okay. I had a friend run numbers and he was telling me that for 1 meter long screw he was running 600 rpm with the same compression ratio so I guess 300 should be max or likely I will try 200 and go from there, adjusting with pulley size. I have zero desire to do another VFD machine. Have 1 here and it has been a total waste of money. (edited)

Hello! I am trying to find a motor to power my currently manual shredder but I'm finding it really difficult, there is very limited options on the bazar. does anyone know anywhere where I could source a 2.2kw motor and gearbox? Preferably single phase

@PreciousPlasticCork Are you in the Americas or EU markets?

okay. I had a friend run numbers and he was telling me that for 1 meter long screw he was running 600 rpm with the same compression ratio so I guess 300 should be max or likely I will try 200 and go from there, adjusting with pulley size. I have zero desire to do another VFD machine. Have 1 here and it has been a total waste of money.

@Butte (PP Philippines) What was the problem with the VFD? I have one, I would like to know what I should expect. One fried already..

1

Looks like this was a scam, nevermind. (edited)

10:05 PM

. (edited)

10:06 PM

. (edited)

@CitSciWorkshop EU (Ireland)

@PreciousPlasticCork I found one on Facebook marketplace (no kidding) for £50 4KW. Ebay generally has plenty of choice and decent prices from your local market.

@PreciousPlasticCork If you are on a budget (like me) you might consider to buy a silent garden shredder and salvage motor and control parts from it. You can get them new for about 160 to 200 €. Single phase, 2,8kw, 42rpm, so enough torque for the shredder. It's not the fastest and not noiseless neither, but hey, for the money.... I got mine for 20€ on a sort of craigslist, because the guy broke the carter, so as a gardenshredder it was unusable. I bought another one (for the garden this time) for 40€. Just be sure that when you go this way that the shredder has a faceplate like on the photo.

1

I own one of those shredders and they're a beast. No idea of the torque, but I abused mine so hard forcing branches way too thick through it. I ended up splitting the grinding plate in half.

Hey guys ! I'm working at the moment with an association about plastic pollution and I was wondering about a new kind of machine to join the project precious plastic. As you know, the biggest part of plastic litter comes from rivers. What do you think about something to collect it ? Have you ever seen/heard something about it ? This is a picture of my idea : only mecanic, no electronic. Something very simple with basic materials too. Something like a "low-tech Ocean Cleanup Interceptor" ! I'm a computer science engineer so my mechanic skills are very limited ! Does anyone have some mechanic skills ? It makes sense ? Is it possible with only hydropower ? It's just an idea, feel free to use/change/develop it ! At the moment, I don't have a lot of time but if someone is boring... we can exchange about it ! Thanks a lot and congratulations for your energies to tackle the plastic mess

1

@Deleted User have you looked at this? https://www.dw.com/en/dutch-inventor-unveils-river-barge-to-scoop-plastic-before-it-enters-oceans/a-51004414

Dutch inventor unveils river barge to scoop plastic before it enter...

The Ocean Cleanup nonprofit aims to deploy "The Interceptor" in 1,000 rivers responsible for 80% of plastic entering oceans. It should use natural currents to collect plastic, while allowing animals and ships to pass.

Hey @coopernurse (USA WA) ! Thanks for your answer ! Yes for sure ! It's an awesome project but as I said, I was thinking about a low-tech "interceptor" without any electronic device. And moreover, the interceptor will be lauch on big rivers. It's impossible to put in on small river and I think that it could be a great idea to make something easier and appropriable. I believe that it is possible with only hydropower and I would like to discuss it with someone with good skills in mechanic :) Precious plastic is awesome because you can do it at home... I'm not sure about the Ocean Cleanup Interceptor, even if it's a beautiful project ! ahaha

1

Hi guys, i'm trying to get to a link ( https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree ) to download the 20gb of files that was specified by @truth-teller - but i cannot get to the majority of the github page, is that locked down? - within this post Supposedly it has some schematics for imperialized versions, which i'm needing for the injection molding machine --------------------------------------------------------------- truth-teller04/16/2020 Hey everybody, we started consolidating around 3GB of PP data, another 20GB from the forum not yet integrated. The data at the end includes :

v3, v4 "original"
v3, v4 Updates, hacks, etc.. (imperial,..)
Our products (based on v3 & v4 and beyond)
Started and finished PP Projects : machines, molds, etc...
Old Map pins
Templates, links to projects
The old forum and everything noteworthy which is being linked or uploaded there
the library/wiki I am still trying to figure out how to make a good explorer application around it but you can already browse it here : https://github.com/plastic-hub/products/tree/master/projects. There is also some extra tools in top of it at some point, more likely in June (prototypes spinning since 6 months already). Ideally it´s becoming the ultimate dashboard (social feeds as well) and library. Call it the Noah's Ark of PP,

God speed & kind regards, g, your library master

i'm mostly confused with the measurements on the injector > Round bar - 26x680 > quantity - 58.5cm ----- Does this mean i need a 26mm diameter bar, 680mm long, but then i don't understand why the quantity is in there? Tube - 34x26x4mm > QTY - 53cm ----- i'm really confused by this one... if it's a tube, why are the measurements in oval?

@CrabbyApples Well, this you have to see with "the king" himself. He is allso called Gunther sometimes. And he talks (writes) a lot when the day is long. Anyway, plastic-hub is not really affiliated to the Dave-Hakkens-Precious-Plastic, so i won't comment this any further, but maybe some of the guys which are in imperial countries already did the conversion, as it was done for the V3-Shredder. Concerning the measurements, 32 34x26x4 would mean 34mm Outsidediameter, 26mm Inside diameter 4mm thickness. and QTY is just the length. (edited)

@sonik guess I was just confused as the math doesn't seem to line up. In my head at least 32 OD, 26ID would be 6mm thickness? That's where I was lost with the 4mm.

@CrabbyApples if you do OD - ID, you obtain 2 time the thickness : 26ID + 4mm thck on both side = 34. (There is no 32OD somewhere).

Sorry, corrected 32 to 34

@Yann ahhh OK, makes sense! Thanks!

I’m having a difficulty finding an answer, What would be the average cost per heat pressed sheet. Electrical requirement and cost kWh per sheet?

@SPACEMAN That depends on a few things like the cost of electricity where you live and the thickness of the sheet. But here are some guidelines to figure out the energy required: The machine draws 15kW when heating up - in our experience it would take around 20 minutes to heat up (5kWh). From this point, the machine is drawing less than 15kW because the temperature is regulated – the exact amount depends on what you throw at it and if you’re in a cool/warm climate. Let us assume that it draws about half of the maximum power ~ 8kW. Then for a 6mm sheet of HDPE (that takes around 30 minutes in the sheetpress) you would draw 4kWh. So to heat up and press one 6mm sheet; you’re looking at 9kWh, for two 6mm sheets; 13kWh etc… Keep in mind that these are rough theoretical calculations based on the rating of the components. We have not measured the actual power draw – but in theory this should be a good approximation.

1

i have an old Axelson A16 engine lathe with a taper attachment, is it possible to machine the extrusion screw using that and the threaded rod of the lathe? i really havent done a lot of turning on it. Its mostly used for rough cut drilling of cast iron and such.

Hey guys ! I'm working at the moment with an association about plastic pollution and I was wondering about a new kind of machine to join the project precious plastic. As you know, the biggest part of plastic litter comes from rivers. What do you think about something to collect it ? Have you ever seen/heard something about it ? This is a picture of my idea : only mecanic, no electronic. Something very simple with basic materials too. Something like a "low-tech Ocean Cleanup Interceptor" ! I'm a computer science engineer so my mechanic skills are very limited ! Does anyone have some mechanic skills ? It makes sense ? Is it possible with only hydropower ? It's just an idea, feel free to use/change/develop it ! At the moment, I don't have a lot of time but if someone is boring... we can exchange about it ! Thanks a lot and congratulations for your energies to tackle the plastic mess

@Deleted User it might depend on the river, but I think it would require a big turbine, or some kind of channel to focus the stream to make it efficient, because where it could be installed water would move slow

8:29 PM

Why refuse to use any electronics?

Rivers and storm drains. I've seen some low-tech water-based collectors. Will look for the video. Sometimes, the solution is as simple as a net to catch the plastic. It's carried by the current flow, right? Just let the plastic come to you, rather than "chasing" it.

@Frederik C (ZA) you can't put a net side to side as boats might need to pass, and driftwood to continue down the river, without breaking the net, nor top to bottom, fish and other things do their thing along the river

9:37 PM

Law is another thing, you can't just go to a river and put a net, and every now and then come back to crean the net

9:39 PM

It also has to be a easy task to take all the plastic it catches, with a medium width river, you already need a boat or a complex system

9:39 PM

I mean maybe there is a way, but I don't see it

9:40 PM

Send the video if you find it please

Okay. And let's move to #just-chatting. This is well beyond the supported V4 machines. (For now.

)

Hello everyone, Please I want inquiry on shredder knife, what is best mm size of iron plate it be fabricated for the knife?

Hi @PP Nigeria the Basic shredder is 5mm, and the Pro shredders use 6mm thickness. V4 release used the specification of pre-hardened steel, a brand called Hardox. In US it is called AR and its rated 400 or 500. In Basic shredders stainless steel is used a lot too. It won't hold an edge as long as AR/Hardox Steel will, but people use it when corrosion or oxidation is a big concern. (edited)

1

@Butte (PP Philippines) What was the problem with the VFD? I have one, I would like to know what I should expect. One fried already..

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland you need a good vfd like Delta brand, not cheap china... plus 3 phase motor. drives up the cost a lot. For those on a budget it is a lot cheaper to change belts and pulleys instead with a single phase.

@Butte (PP Philippines) unfortunately I could only source a cheap Chinese VFD for our 4kw motor because we are nearly broke. Yes I agree for price it is quite expensive. On the other hand, I think having high torque is important in our extrusion. So far so good but I have put a breaker between the motor and the VFD as I believe that last time it fried because the dodgy motor we had fried too...

Has anyone tried alternative methods of turning a shredder that doesn't require power?

Can you please tell me size of barrel for injection molding machine.. Like length and diameter of barrel... Please

@ishan

03_injection_barrel_A4.pdf

128.4 KB

@Nick - PP France 22 mm diameter of barrel??

can you open the PDF ?

3:12 PM

all the dimensions are there

@e1ise.v take a look to these how to's https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/human-powered-shredder https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

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[FAQ] [non-electric] [shredder] [off-grid] https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/human-powered-shredder https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-the-plstico-fantstico-recycling-bicycle-shredder Plastikourgeio Shreddal https://youtu.be/DYAqbIDmv8k (edited)

Could someone please tell me how much kg of plastic can be shredded per hour approx?

@Maris Basic shredder +-10kg/h https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder (edited)

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8:45 PM

Shredder pro +-40kg/h https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro

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the "accurate and smooth from the inside" remark should be for the tube, not the roundbar, right?

I think the same. Roundbar-->accurate and smooth from the outside Tube-->accurate and smooth from the inside

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[FAQ] [Shredder output] Basic shredder averaged output: ±10kg per hour https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

10:41 PM

[FAQ] [Shredder] [output] Shredder Pro averaged output: ±40kg per hour https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro

Hola, quisiera saber de ¿cuanto son las resistencias o calentadores?

En que país estas?

If I said something horrible, it's Google's fault.

can't find the Sheet Press Prep Table plans in the starter kit...someone can help?

@Pat Are you saying that you can't find a specific set of files or are you saying that you were unable to download the folder from the website? I'm new to this community so I might be wrong but I believe I was able to get all the files for the Sheet Press.

Hi guys, looking to build a small sheet press machine here (60x40cm)to get used to the tecnology and the material, before going big. Besides PP original heating system (cartidge heaters), also found one machine made with tubular heaters inside the aluminium sheet. Anyone can help me to undertand the diference between both of them? and which would be better?

@holis these guys have made a cheap small option. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine

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@holis these guys have made a cheap small option. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/zero-plastic-australias-sheet-machine

@NoMorePlastic Thanks. I already been in contact with Adam (Zero Plastic Australia) he is great and has given us a lot of info regarding the sublimation machine. The thing is that in our country there is not a lot of diference between that machine and building one, so we are aiming to have heating from both sides

if posible.

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

I'm trying to locate parts here in the USA... For the injector, is there any pre threaded pipes/tubes that you guys have been able to locate? I got some quotes for the metal, but I can't find anyone to cut a thread on it... I'm in the Portland oregon area

Hello! What type of shaft clamp do we need in extrusion pro. Name, dimensions, type ?

@Pat you'll find it here : precious-plastic-kit\3. Build\7. Sheetpress\Upgrades\Sheetpress System\1-3D CAD\Prep-Table

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8:54 AM

@shreyas you have everything in the DK here : precious-plastic-kit\3. Build\6. Extrusion Pro\Extrusion Pro Files\5. BOM (line 47

)

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@CrabbyApples I don't know in the US, but it is generally difficult to find a pipe threaded, long enough and with the proper inner dimension. I would try to get one of these second hand, or find a plumber close to me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/RATCHETING-PIPE-DIE-THREAD-MAKER-THREADER-TOOL-RATCHET-THREADING-PLUMBING-KIT/253995229217?hash=item3b234ba021:g:JTYAAOSwdU1W~C2-

RATCHETING PIPE DIE THREAD MAKER THREADER TOOL RATCHET THREADING PL...

This pipe threader's high-speed, tool steel dies make smooth, precise NPT threads in 1/2 in. pipe, and the extra-long ratchet handle gives you the increased leverage to do it easily. Pipe threader set includes threading dies, 17-1/2 in.

https://youtu.be/Us1NIza0V3k

Jeremy Fielding

Scary Prototype Shredder Design; A Cheap Alternative to the Preciou...

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I'm looking into building a shredder. The biggest problem with building shredders is the expensive and hard to get laser cut blades. Is there a reason why you couldn't/shouldn't use circular blades? I know that the typical thick blades crush the plastic instead of cutting it, like these circular saws. However there must be a way to make a working shredder with saws, right? Jeremy Fielding (from the video above) made an over powered shredder - I was thinking about doing a similar project but using small angle grinder blades instead of these huge, wood cutting ones; and I would also use an engine with 700-800rpm instead of the 4800 used in this video. I'm interested in this because the cost of building a shredder would drop by a lot. You can find angle grinder blades for less than 1€ where I'm from. Considering that pretty much everyone who works with recycled plastic needs a shredder it would be really cool if we could make it easier to build and by a lower price. I've been researching on YouTube, Reddit and other platforms but I never really understand why there is so little information on circular blade shredders. @davehakkens mentioned he tried using saws in one of the first shredder prototypes but he didn't explain why they didn't work. I'm willing to give this a try, I just wanted to know if anyone had tried this before. Thank you all

@Blackout I suppose that Plastic will melt and stick to your blades, especially if you take grinder blades. And the result in the video is not really optimal, either to big flakes or a sort of powder, which can be dangerous for health. But try and keep us informed.

@sonik I do know that the plastic flakes are far from being excellent. I've tried cutting different plastics with an angle grinder before and I've had different results. If/when I eventually build a shredder I'll try to mess around with different speeds and blades to see if I can get a positive result. There are also different setups you can use (front fed, gravity fed, single or multiple blade, etc) so I'll try to document my experiments and share them in here. Thank you for your reply!

I've been thinking about the shredder, the slowest part is granulating, which is because you're geared down to about 70rpm to do the shredding in the first place. The axle extends out from both sides of the shredder, I was wondering if anyone has ever had a motor geared down to 70rpm on one side that they could disconnect with something like a sliding coupler and on the other side a higher speed motor for granulating. Probably something like 500rpm, making it 7 times faster to granulate?

In theory, if you had a speed controller connected to your motor you wouldn't need 2 motors, you could just tweak a knob and you would be able to change the speed

good afternoon someone knows the useful life of the crusher blades

"Useful life" meaning how long do they typically last? Will depend on the steel type. But I don't know the averages.

I agree with @Frederik C (ZA) here. I cannot say for sure but I would say (depending on the thickness and steel type) they can probably last a lifetime. They will become dull but by maintaining and sharpening them they should last a very long time. I can't imagine one of those breaking anytime soon

if it is that in addition to being expensive due to the laser cut and the material, it must be taken into account what period of life they have and in how many months a replacement or sharpening will be carried out

Yes, we need some more input on shredder maintenance. But with different steel suppliers internationally, it's a bit of an apples and oranges comparison. Weaker steel definitely gets blunt. And how you address that can maybe affect the clearances of the blades?

(edited)

@davehakkens @Mattia hi my name is Thomas, i am a french designer and we planned to build a PP Sheetpress in september. If someone from the Sheetpress Team could give us some precision… It would be very helpfull for us. We visit a recycling workshop working with pizza oven and a press. With this technic the pressure is exerted on the plastic itself through the top of the mould like in this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyfputUXCD0 And the volume of plastic at the beginning is 2,5 higher than the final plates. The PP Sheetpress system puts the pressure on the mould and volume of plastic seems to be as high as the mould. So we are questioning about the plates density and mechanical properties ? Are the plates solid and with a nice finish ? Is as really easy to unmould (like in the PP video) or would it be interessting to build the frame mould in 2 parts ? Thanks for your return Thomas (edited)

Mark Bachrach

Plastic Plate Press Process - MMID Foundation - Mark Bachrach

Our design shredder is well past 100 kilos per hour, and the upgraded hybrid v2 extrusion with v3 screw is now running 6 kilos extrusion per hour. We are adding on a vacuum colleciton for the shredder with a cyclonic filter. Everything has arrived except the cyclonic filter still in transit.

10:35 AM

the problem with the press as is now, is if you are using a cold press for sheet, you need to have some sort of liquid cooling. We tried air cooling, 2 fans, did not work. when we started compression molding we started with liquid cooling the inside mold only. result was the inside finish of the item is perfect. the outside of th emold is still hot, and finish was not good. Mostly shrinkage and warping issues. Even adding on cooling fan to the mold did not solve. Next mold parts to arrive tomorrow and use liquid cooling inside and outside of the mold. With our increased extrusion rates we need to freeze and demold parts faster. Faster production, makes a more economically viable product. Projected produciton now is 27 pieces at 215 grams each average (counting flashing)

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Maybe a silly question, what type of connector do you use between the mould and the hoses/pipes?

alguien tiene planos para hacer prensa de hojas?

Quick question I hope someone can answer. With a coupling rated for 125Nm, what is it that determines that? Is it the clamping force of it on the shaft, or if it the ... "fingers" on each half of the coupler with the plastic insert? I'm trying to find one that'll clamp to a 40mm and 20mm shaft, a D80 will fit both, but can only handle 125Nm, but I have a keyway on the motor, so that won't slip and I'm OK with welding the other side onto my shredder axle to stop that slipping.

@Pat you'll find it here : precious-plastic-kit\3. Build\7. Sheetpress\Upgrades\Sheetpress System\1-3D CAD\Prep-Table

@Yann

@Pat you'll find it here : precious-plastic-kit\3. Build\7. Sheetpress\Upgrades\Sheetpress System\1-3D CAD\Prep-Table

@Yann ton lien ne me mène nulle part

@Pat He is referring to the folders in the Download Kit https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

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Friends, who can give us an advice on machines certification in the European Union, what is needed to certify, the cost etc

@Artem_lavitgrass you have to respect directive 2006/42/ec (for free in a lot of places in google). This is global guidelines and rules though, which could be summarise like this : you have to built your machine according to the relevant ISO/EN standard. Depending on the application, size... of your machine, you need a special organism to review it, or just declare you follow the rules (and expose yourself to complain if not). I am starting to collect information on this subject, to create a guide, but it take time and realisticaly not be finished before the end of summer. Don't hesite to share back your findings ! (edited)

Hi there, I have a question about the v4 extruder, in the blueprints for the extruder v4 it is stated that the machine is capable of extruding up to 20kg/hour but I see at other machines a much lower output, is there information about how the nozle size (and other parameters) are related to the output in kg/hour? I would like to calculate the maximum throughput with a nozzle of 3 mm.

Hi everyone! My name is Alejo Garcia and I’m from Leonardo Da Vinci school, in Argentina. Our school project is to build the 3 basic machines from precious plastic and we were wondering if you can give us any help, telling us what you would have wanted to know when you were building them, or anything you think it’s important to know! So please, if you want to help, write me a direct message, or e-mail me at alejogarcia1207@gmail.com Thanks so much to all of you, and lets keep making the world better!

@davehakkens @Mattia hi my name is Thomas, i am a french designer and we planned to build a PP Sheetpress in september. If someone from the Sheetpress Team could give us some precision… It would be very helpfull for us. We visit a recycling workshop working with pizza oven and a press. With this technic the pressure is exerted on the plastic itself through the top of the mould like in this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyfputUXCD0 And the volume of plastic at the beginning is 2,5 higher than the final plates. The PP Sheetpress system puts the pressure on the mould and volume of plastic seems to be as high as the mould. So we are questioning about the plates density and mechanical properties ? Are the plates solid and with a nice finish ? Is as really easy to unmould (like in the PP video) or would it be interessting to build the frame mould in 2 parts ? Thanks for your return Thomas

@Deleted User Im intrested in the experts opinion on this subject. Found in the forum that PP coreteam was working in oven + coldpress process. But stop founding info regarding it. Is it a good option? which are the cons of this vs the sheetpress?

Mark Bachrach

Plastic Plate Press Process - MMID Foundation - Mark Bachrach

Maybe a silly question, what type of connector do you use between the mould and the hoses/pipes?

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland#1134 we extrude into a heated pot and when we have enough plastic, we use two silicone spatula to transfer the blob of hot plastic to the mold like handling hot sugar candy.

@Butte (PP Philippines) I was referring to the connection between the mould from the press not between extrusion and the mould. I know your setup, it is very smart I wish I knew of it before actually. I am currently setting up my own cooling system and I struggle with the connectivity between moulds and the pipes transporting the water.

I got a friend building a shredder. He's using a 0.5kw (3/4hp) 1320rpm motor and is asking what to reduce to. I would advise him that he would need to reduce to about 35rpm or maybe a little lower to get the proper toque, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have experience with this?

Hello @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Though this site is in french, it is an easy-to-use calculator to figure out what RPM should be used considering the power of the motor :) Hope it helps ! https://www.toutcalculer.com/mecanique/puissance-couple.php

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in english: http://wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp

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Thanks so much @Nick - PP France and @sonik The guy is trying to put together scrap parts to build himself a shredder. Ah i got my hp and kw switched around previously... anyways, gonna be somewhere between 33-44rpm for him i reckon. Thanks again

Hello from Turkey. I am planning to build sheetpress but i saw this machine on instagram using natural gas in order to use eletricity. Is it possible to convert the sheetpress working with natural gas? It would be more efficient and way cheap using natural gas than electricity. I lost the Instagram post btw. Hope new ideas will unleash soon (edited)

@holis we first worked on a bigger system of pizza oven + cold press because :

you optain a better quality sheet due to overflow
productivity is faster but :
molds are expensive an heavy
unmoulding was very tricky, resulting in breaking (expensive) molds regularly so we went back to a sheet press system, with a spring to increase sheet quality (still slightly under the overflow mold system) and :
quality is close to be as good + in both case quality is really far from virgin plastic : just don't count on it for mechanical use anyway !
it you associate it with a coldpress, you can actually be more productive than with oven + press system

Hi everyone, I made a web-friendly version of the Will It Shred? calculator that @AndyN built a few years ago in excel. I hope you find it useful. Helped me quite a bit when comparing motors: https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/ Not sure if there's a better place to share this, but this seemed like where you'd find people in need

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4:20 PM

I think we are wrong on the shorter shaft. Fixed blades on that side wont easily fit.

4:21 PM

how many blades are there on each axis?

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4:21 PM

what the pattern for the final spacers in each shaft?

I always read about the shredder's blades being cut by laser, is it because a milling machine is not enough precise? Or could it be done with enough quality?

@David EC it could be done with enough quality, just would be time consuming and too expensive for production. We laser our blades and sharpen them carefully on a grinder.

Hello. Hope everyone is ok. My name is Nicolás Argentino, from Argentina. Currently i am trying to buil the extruder pro (V4). But i have questions redarding the motor. I quote, from your web page the following: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionprobuild "We recommend to use motor output torque in the range of 80-120 Nm, in which 120 Nm is the recommended Max. output torque value and 80 Nm the minimum value. We recommend to use a motor with a max. power output of 3 kW Which corresponds to a maximum (Output shaft) speed of 220 - 320 RPM (assuming 90% gearbox and motor efficiency). We recommend to avoid worm-type gearboxes due to their low efficiency." After reading this, I go to the bazar, to look for the proper motor for the extrusion pro, taking in consideration the recommendations quoted. So i ve decided to look for the full built machine, and in the specifications of the machine i have found the following. Quoted from here: "https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/extruder-pro/extruder-pro-fully-built/extrusion-machine-pro/" Motor-3HP( Single Phase & Three Phase Available) (Gear Box Made Of Aluminium Casted Having Machined Worm Gear) So, after this, my questions are the following: -Should I look for a 3 kW motor or a 3 Hp motor? -Is it a worm-type gear box the one i should buy or not?

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hey @Nicolas Argentino 1. 3 kw is not the same as 3 hp so you're looking for 3 kw. If I'm looking at a motor with HP that I want to know the kW of, I've been using the calculator tool I posted above and it multiplies (Volts * Full-Load-Amps * 0.8) 2. I probably am not the best person to say but I'm planning to use a wormgear reducer for my extruder, though I'm not going pro. An nmrv63 was recommended to me by the person building my parts (which they use themself too). They may not be the most efficient but they work, it appears.

8:02 AM

Lots of torque

8:03 AM

guys anybody can help me with the number of blades on each axis?

Oops... sorry. @Poly Pearl repeat your question.

@Frederik C (ZA) got a question about motors and sound. I have a shredder coming with a weg 2 hp motor and i'm wondering if there's a common house hold item, like a washing machine or a weed wacker that uses the same motor, so i can have a noise comparison. from all the videos i have seen, they seem supper quite, but that could just be volume control...

hello all. looking ot build the shredder 2.1. Im in the states. where does on get the Hex bar for the shredder? also, when i open the .DXF files, the machine shows as 149 inches long...

@joshferri sounds like your CAD took the file dimensions and made them inches instead of MM. If you have some import settings that you can change unit with, that might help. (edited)

@Poly Pearl I don't know any household item with this motor specifically, but generally the motor is not the noisy part (same for washing machine). The noise in your shredder will come from your bladed mostly, so align them properly (also for shredding function), and expect it to be noisy when you shredd : imagine the sound you do jumping on a plastic box, and make it continue.

@Yann do you think the sound will carry out of the buildng it is housed in? we will be running in a concrete building with no insulation, 2 closed windows, 10x20x10 approx.

Has anyone got a prescious plastic injection machine gotten it to work correctly. We bought one from previous plastic USA off the bazaar and have had it for about 2 months or so and we can never get it to work correctly. Some is constantly messing up. We have been at for 4 hours just today and have only been able to create one coaster. I am very desperate for some feed back or help

@Angus17 I bought one from Precious Plastic USA two years ago and haven’t had too many issues with it. I need to replace a PID that malfunctioned but the injection machine has actually been working with just one. I’ve made a lot of hexagons with them and all sorts of other things. Mind you, it took me a long time to figure out what temperatures worked best, how long to wait until I could inject it, etc. It’s a process that takes some time. What exactly are the issues with yours?

@Angus17 What is your process like? Can you detail your steps for experiments and give some info on what ends up stopping you?

The main issue that I'm having is the nozzle is constantly clogging with unmelted plastic and we can close the nozzle back to stop the plastic from running out before can get another mood back on

@Angus17 How close to the nozzle is the nearest band heater? If you'd like we can message and go into a little closer detail.

@CitSciWorkshop I'll take a pic of it tomorrow when I'm out at our work shop

5:01 AM

@Nicolas Lamoureux (PPYQG) I've been working with pp. Would love to know what process you have found to make it work

@Angus17 I’m absolutely swamped with work right now but I’ll try to get a small video together this weekend or at least a list of the process I use and send it over to you. I have been almost exclusively using PS from discarded Tim Hortons coffee lids and HDPE but I have made a few items with PP. I’ll try to get something over to you on Sunday if I can. (edited)

@Poly Pearl i think in a closed building it should be fine outside. But be careful to your ear protection inside ;-)

@Nicolas Lamoureux (PPYQG) that's fine I completely understand. I'd also be curious how your doing hdpe. Tried that once with terrible results

thanks @Yann !!

DIY grinder to make your own compression screws https://hackaday.com/2020/07/09/open-source-grinder-makes-compression-screws-for-plastic-extruders-easy/

Dan Maloney

Open-Source Grinder Makes Compression Screws For Plastic Extruders ...

In a world that’s literally awash in plastic waste, it seems a pity to have to buy fresh rolls of plastic filament to feed our 3D-printers, only to have them generate yet more plastic waste. …

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It should be tested for larger diameters of screws but it looks really neat

Hello!! I am currently doing initial research so I can source parts to build the Injection molding machine. I saw that it was said that it will run on 220v, will it also run on 110v? I am in the US if it makes a difference. Thanks!

I've got a few questions about the Extruder/Extruder Pro if anyone can help: 1. It seems like one of the key differences with these machines is just the type of screw and its length. Otherwise its mostly about motor/gearbox choice so that you can output at a higher RPM with the same torque, right? 2. I'm having the standard extruder parts shipped to me but with an extrusion screw instead of the wood auger (same length though). My thoughts are that I might as well try to source a pro-quality motor/gearbox if there isnt much difference otherwise 3. 109nm of torque and 263RPM for the extruder pro - those are some very specific and strange numbers - does anyonw know where these are derived from? I'm mostly looking at 1800RPM motors and 7.5:1 gearboxes but they spin at 233RPM maximum. 4. The person sending me the parts seems to stand by using a variable frequency drive, but I see very little about that on the Precious Plastic website or how that might impact your motor choice. Is a VFD pretty par for the course? Or would using a DC motor be a better alternative? How do people fine-tune their output speed typically? (edited)

@Deathmog You can run it on either in the US.

Testing testing 1 2 3

5:12 AM

Am I mute?

@Deathmog You can run it on either in the US.

@CitSciWorkshop Wonderful, thank you.

@Deathmog Happy to help, just remember what you're sourcing for and match your parts to the desired voltage

6:09 AM

@alistar You're visible, what's up?

@Deathmog if you have 110, then you likely also have 220, even in residential construction. It will be more efficient to run off 220 for a variety of reasons. It will entail getting a new breaker in your service panel and a receptacle wired to your shop. Your efficiency and cost will offset in a short time for the cost of electrical work.

Thanks for the insight! I'll go with 220. We've been putting it off because my shop is older but it looks like it's time to bite the bullet!

2:18 PM

Looking forward to building this!

hello everyone, I am very happy to be part of this group, I live in Brazil and would love to reuse plastic and transform it into products with usability. I am seeing how to build the injection machine but I can't find details like measures of the structures can anybody help me? thank you very much!

5:02 AM

We have an off by one error I guess. Help is appreciated.

are the blades offset by a space? Can't quite tell. Can you clarify?

I'm guessing the top is the issue, as there's a space between the top blade and the frame.

Hello friend, I have a question. I build the shredder machine with a 2hp motor running in 115V, I’m in the USA, it jams a lot, so I did not have a reverse motor switch, I just got one, hoping it will help. Do you know how can I wire the switch. Thank you

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2:50 AM

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2:50 AM

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2:57 AM

@alistar I dont know how to explain it in english. but the thickness of bade and the spacer means a lot.

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3:01 AM

sometimes you have to use precion sheen to adjust.

3:05 AM

@CitSciWorkshop the short shaft and long shaft are offset by one blade so the fit inside the other. Is this what you meant?

@alistar No, I was asking if each axis was offset into the fixed blade spaces, sort of dirfting into the space where the fixed blades should be.

@CitSciWorkshop can you elaborate more? I don't follow either for my lack of engineering english knowledge or engineering itself

@alistar oh no worries, I may not be asking correctly.

JajroodShredder-Model.pdf

30.07 KB

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I'm asking what the issue is with your shredder? Shifted and binding?

The issue is that on one side the fixed blades eitger dont fit in place or fit very hard.

7:11 AM

Lets assume shaft is X axis, width of the box is Y and height is Z for better communication.

7:12 AM

I count 23 13-blades one and 24 6-blades. Is this correct?

7:13 AM

Also where does the 4 little fixed blades fit?

its one of the very edge, against the box.

7:15 AM

I'm checking the rest of the docs I have for blade counts, one moment.

7:19 AM

You meant here for small fixed blades?

@alistar so the 4mm fixed blade sits on the outer edge of the 6 tooth blade axis, I believe.

7:20 AM

I think the wide spaces on the 13 tooth axis are a 6mm and a 4?

7:20 AM

pretty sure the 4mm are corners only.

Ok I will figure theselittle fixed blades.

yes, 4mm are corners. but i will leave that open

@CitSciWorkshop I guess fixed blades wont fit because of either 1- wrong number of blades 2-X axis misalignment caused by the excess/lack of additional bearing spacers

we've adapted differently for US steel thicknesses. (edited)

looks like maybe the plates are swapped on @alistar build?

7:24 AM

the fixed blade plates

7:25 AM

I might be wrong, reviewing across the internet

@ShrednMelt_Xu thanks for participating. We will be deassembling and assembling box in 3 hours.

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don't forget to rotate the box end plates.

@CitSciWorkshop wait what?

i redesigned the shredder pro. and doing some test right now.

there is a lower tab and higher tab on the fixed blade plates that corresponds to the tabs on the end of the box.

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ooh flanges!

7:29 AM

@alistar tab alignment here

7:30 AM

just flip 'em,

@CitSciWorkshop great! You guys have these renderings from solidworks? We didn't have the software here.

that's all @ShrednMelt_Xu doin' some work.

7:32 AM

try out Fusion 360! it's free for startups

yeah.Fusion360 free for three years

thanks guys. Breakfast to power through the day. Love to keep you posted but discord is filtered in our workplace and I dont have a vpn there. Heard a lot about fusion.

happy to hear about your work how and whenever possible.

good luck

@ShrednMelt_Xu cool to see your mods and redesign too.

thanks. how's your shredder?

7:39 AM

im going to use more powerful motor . 7.5KW motor

7:39 AM

with K87 gearbox.

We have created the v4 in US imperial units. a headache. But it works well and we're looking forward to adapting the design for some connective automation and higher power.

7:42 AM

@ShrednMelt_Xu what material thicknesses are you aiming for with the 7.5KW motor? (edited)

7:42 AM

industrial waste?

@CitSciWorkshop for food industry

.

aha!

Hello community, I'm glad to discover the project discord channel. Um, as you see I'm having a project of HDPE extruder. Can anybody give some info and guides about the type of the motor that is usually used for it? Currently we need like 10rpm(really slow ones) and about 110Nm torque. Thanks!

this is interesting. So much of the prior work from Reprap movement could meet with the PP community and drive expansive innovation. https://www.mdpi.com/2411-5134/5/3/26/htm

Open-Source Grinding Machine for Compression Screw Manufacturing

Some of the most promising distributed recycling and additive manufacturing (DRAM) technical systems use fused particle fabrication (FPF) or fused granular fabrication (FGF), where compression screws force post-consumer waste plastic through a heated nozzle for direct 3D print...

3

Hello, Our stainless steel bandheaters for the injection machine (bought on Ebay for about 5USD) are not lasting long (4 months approx. while they are not being used continuously). The voltage is not very stable in Tanzania and we wonder if a voltage regulator could prolong the life span of the bandheaters. Does anyone have a similar experience? We are currently working with one brass nozzle heater (let´s see how long it lasts) and thought about buying and testing a ceramic one. Asante sana!

Hello! I'm glad I discover this server. I'm currently in the process of making a shredding machine for our lab. However I'm still uncure about the shredder part itself. For the table, hopper, etc. I uses the shredder pro version, but I wanted to just buy the assembled shredder part. The problem is most of the shredder blade assembly sold in Indonesia is the basic version. I'm not sure how it will fit in the pro version and I couldn't find the basic shredding machine files anywhere in the website. Is it removed? Can anybody give message any suggestions for this? Thanks in advance! (also sorry, English is not my first language so.. :) )

Hello everyone, I'm new to this website. I am actually designing from scratch a single screw extrusion machine for the recycling of LDPE, HDPE and PP for a school project. However, I need to prove and explain each and every choice I make. For example, why a 30mm diameter screw as recommended by precious plastics. I also saw that the throughput was very important, so how to start with all this? I would be more than grateful if someone could help me with all this as I do not have much more time left for the deadline. Thanks in advance.

Hello everybody! Hope everyone’s fine! I’m starting with a project about recycling plastic and I would like to build a plastic extruder like the one on the website and YouTube videos! Do you guys know where I can find all the techical drawings and products used to build the Basic Extruder? Thanks in advance! Best regards!

Hello there, I am currently making a 3D model of the workspace that the machines will be put in. I am wondering if someone could tell me how to download the cad files (including the measurements) of the machines. Thank you!

(edited)

Hello, i want to make a mass building brick factory but can’t figure the machining I would need for making lots of bricks

12:24 AM

Also want information about what is the total cost of the final brick because I still think on the affordability

@Rúben Martins This should work: https://preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/extrusion.html

Start an Extrusion Workspace to Recycle Plastic

Learn how to find a space, build machines, make and sell products and help fix the plastic waste problem.

9:32 AM

@steph https://preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/mix.html

Start a Mix Workspace to Recycle Plastic

Learn how to find a space, build machines, make and sell products and help fix the plastic waste problem.

9:33 AM

@HGR https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-extruded-plastic-bricks

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hello everyone! I am looking for the file to make the bottle opener mold. Does anyone have it or know where to download it?

@Rúben Martins This should work: https://preciousplastic.com/starterkits/showcase/extrusion.html

@Mettodo | Njombe Beyond Thank yoy very much!

Start an Extrusion Workspace to Recycle Plastic

Learn how to find a space, build machines, make and sell products and help fix the plastic waste problem.

hello Ive had shreader parts made from the version 2 blue print and I cant see what size threaded rod is used any ideas please

hey guys, new to the community. hope everyone id safe and having a blast

so i was wondering whether it would be efficient to melt my plastic in an oven then press cool it without any heating element.

7:20 PM

i mean, that would be much easier for i dont have the skills ad resource to make complicated machinary (yet). i can maybe shred my plastic manually, melt it in an oven, and figure a way to press it. hey its a start right?

i think others were pondering this. Definetly seems do-able. I'll dig for people, but (documented) hands on testing would be great!

Seen a few videos of this on youtube my only concern is the risk of fumes and lack of extraction with a regular oven

Hmmm, would it be the same case with precious plastic molding machine and heated sheetpress? Dont they produce fumes too?

Yeah bud when working with this kinda stuff you need to extract the fumes (i did a jewellery course few years back working with resin, stuff is leathal for voc's but a decient extractor can remove most of it. If you dont you can end up with the mother of all headaches and a serious throw up sesh.

just curious does anyone know a good place to get a compression screw from? i found this post on EBAY but just figured id ask as this was one of the only couple things i could find https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precious-Plastic-Design-30mm-Diameter-Extruder-Screw-Set-with-Barrel-38CrMoAlA/353094300511?hash=item52360f735f:g:COAAAOSwFohey1id

Precious Plastic Design 30mm Diameter Extruder Screw Set with Barre...

Plz note that the weight of the set of screw, barrel and nozzle is about 10kgs. This is the barrel designed by RobotDigg available as well. And each part can be customized if you provide clear drawing of it, even the nozzle.

Hi all, i'm currently working with precious plastics Lancaster to develop a new mould for our sheet press. We currently have a 420x420mm heat press. I dont know how well the images will show out but have been experimenting with a bottom sheet with a floating frame and a top sheet with a smaller insert that pushes the plastic into the frame. I was wondering if anyone on this discord has any other ideas for sheet press moulds as we are at the stage where we want to properly manufacture these frames. Thanks!

1

1:45 PM

@ninjacrab yes they look like the Robodigg ones. I think they were originally ordered by the V4 team and now you can buy it to them.

Hello community, I'm glad to discover the project discord channel. Um, as you see I'm having a project of HDPE extruder. Can anybody give some info and guides about the type of the motor that is usually used for it? Currently we need like 10rpm(really slow ones) and about 110Nm torque. Thanks!

@aerieqush We run our v3 extrusion screw at 200 rpm. We previously tried 70 and it was too slow. Also the clearance between the screw and barrel needs to be tight. Slide fit. We found schedule 80 pipe was too small and schedule 40 has a fap of over 1.5mm which means our material is not mixing well, and the heat is not conducting evenly.

Short shredder show off - not a PP shredder, but maybe a good inspiration for the builders here. It has a 4kW engine and spins at 150rpm and louder than the very slow speed shredders, but in the range of granulators pretty silent in comparison. Output at around 60kg at production ready 6mm flake size, shreds up to 15mm thick plates (what I tried for now). The blades tips are seperately exchangable and easy to regrind. The company does not exist anymore, but the same model is available from Zerma (GSL180). (edited)

1

8:59 AM

Unluckily, the V4-Shredder didn't learn anything from their industrial brothers. Still the same poor blade-designs as in V3. I'd rather buy a used pro-shredder instead of investing some 4K in the V4-Shredder. (edited)

Hi guys, could anyone tell me how long the extrusion pro v4.0 can safely be run per day? The spec sheet says 'full days' , but I'm wondering if this really means eg 10 hour days without a break, or its really eg max 8 with breaks every hour etc. Would really appreciate someone's help and knowledge, so thank you in advance. (And if anybody could tell me the max running time of the injection moulding machines I'd be grateful too!)

Unluckily, the V4-Shredder didn't learn anything from their industrial brothers. Still the same poor blade-designs as in V3. I'd rather buy a used pro-shredder instead of investing some 4K in the V4-Shredder.

@sonik We paid 4k for a 11kV second hand.

We at Precious Plastic Philippines designed our own v4 shredder. 5hp and it can run 100 kg HDPE bottle caps per hour easily.

1

3

@Butte (PP Philippines) you should make a how-to.. fuel the community forward

Interesting filter concept from Filabot to clean the material at the extrusion process (edited)

5:21 PM

I have seen similar concepts on high end extrusion lines. They used lasered meshes with automatic cleaning mechanics integrated.

They are probably good also for the flow although I guess you will need more power I suppose to keep an equivalent flow?

@Fritz @easymoulds I'm crushingnon those blade profiles!

5:37 PM

How thick is each blade?

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I mean check out Filabots extruder, It does not look really like its fancy strong

1

5:42 PM

@CitSciWorkshop Its a 300mm wide chamber, so should be around 25-30mm

5:42 PM

the rotor has a diameter on the outside of 180mm

Does anyone know if there are opensource plans for a machine like this? https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/extras/petbot-machine/ (edited)

pet recycling, 3d print pet

yes:

8:42 PM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lyman_Filament_Extruder

Lyman Filament Extruder

ah, that takes shred/pellets though

8:43 PM

I should probably have been more specific

8:43 PM

@Eric Lotze also Eric, long time no see

Been a couple of months! (alias change on Discord)

it can use flakes i think

8:44 PM

need more d o c u m e n t a t i o n

8:44 PM

marcin made one, but barely makes any videos lol

8:44 PM

the older designs by lyman have some vids i think

@Eric Lotze check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZPMRKLgNbg

Roman Neskashev

PETBOT in action (making fillament)

my endgoal is prusament level of precision

Hello everyone, I'm looking for single shaft shredder in India Any leads will be much appreciated.

Hello! I'm extremely interested in setting up a plastic processing space, but there's no way I'd be able to build these machines. Does anyone know what it might cost in parts/labor to hire a machine shop to build these? Thanks!

that is very local, use google maps, find places, and ask around

@Joblin#9607 Heavily depends on where you live. Also if you have the money, you can look in the Bazar to buy the machines (or at least the parts), probably a bit more reliable than commissionning a machine shop who never heard of PP before.

@Rao hello Im a machine builder from india and I can provide you the needed machines

1

@sharma.sagar94 great. Any reference or contact?

Hey PP community. Shredder Pro The docs have contradicting information.

4:17 PM

The length of the hex part of the shaft is 30CM but if you add up the parts that are going to be assembled on that shaft it goes beyond 30CM.

@alistar with each side having 24 blades at 6mm, and spacer stack at 6.5, the total I get is 300mm

8:37 PM

(6+6.5) x 24

8:38 PM

the threaded portions and some spacers do tuck into the holes on the box plates

Hello I’m trying to find all mounds and referring information for bulding bricks, need help finding the documents even though I just downloaded everything can’t find it

Hello my name is Alexnder Chefchick, and I am 18 years old. I watched the video about making an iPhone case from plastic, I have a couple of questions, how do you find the dimensions for the iPhone 7-8 case. And what was the other machine that was used to press the plastic into the mould. I tried to contact jerry, I tried emailing him but still no response. I want to make a living making and selling these recleyed phone cases. Can someone please help me? With either some of the questions, or Jerry’s recent contact number or if he has a new email. Please. I am trying to reduce the waste of plastic in the world.

hi there, anyone here that can or know somebody who produce injection moulds ?

@marek kucharz are you looking for CNC or laser cut moulds?

hi there, anyone here that can or know somebody who produce injection moulds ?

@marek kucharz Maybe @Fritz @easymoulds can help you

(https://easymoulds.de/) (edited)

Hey there! Would anyone have CAD files to build a double axle shredder? I’m looking to get some parts cut out. Thanks.

@KaiFromCanada: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/set-up-a-shredder-workspace Direct download: https://cutt.ly/starterkit-shredder (edited)

1

Shir heute um 03:18 Uhr in #deleted-channel Hi, I am checking the plans to build the Shredder 2.1, and I found some laser files, could you tell me please what is the material for laser cutting? It is a 2D or 3D laser cutting? HELP!!

@Shir 2D (edited)

10:59 PM

11:05 PM

For the European people, we have the CE certification on the extrusion v4 and shredder v4. It's a long process for have it, not easy but possible. The shredder is not full assembly on the picture, i will show you the result. The most complicated part for me was to make all the safety electronics box, need to answer at a big normalisation book. You can find all the safety information in INRS files for special machinery. Good luck if you want get them, it's possible. (edited)

9

Hi Guys Am starting a workshop in my Panama and Am looking to buy a V4 shredder, Extrusion, injection and a Press machine, I like to buy everything in one place Am looking for spec and pricing can you help ??

Hi guys, im looking forward to make my own plastic shredder and i'm asking if someone have a 3D desing of the 6 teeth and 13 teeth blade that are recommended in the Precious Plastic website? If someone could lend them to me it would be very helpful, Thank u guys!

hi @Nurewhat file type are you looking for?

@Reciclo tito Hola, podemos ayudarle, contacte con nosotros +905078362989

9

Awesome. I'm jealous!!

8:31 PM

I have a quick question guys. I'm looking at the plans for the Injection Molding machine. Im not at the hardware store yet to try it, but both the outer dia. Of the plunger and the ID of the barrel is 26mm? Will I run into any issues with the tolerances being too tight? Or am I overthinking it?

Hi! I'm looking for some more information about the washing system posted on the community section of the website. Does anyone have experience building the washing setup? What's the typical cost for building all three components?

@Deathmog yes you need a tolerance, difficult to find everything in the hardware store, to have the best tolerance, so you can take a plunger of 25 in the shop or make with 26 plunger a diameter of 25.8 with a lathe like it.

@Landry Are you sure about ? 0.2mm clearance turned out too much throughout long usage since the film created in between causes a lot of friction which is hard to deal with the PP injector - length wise. It also varies per material selection, barrel and plunger ideally done from different materials since it's biting on each other at some point (+200 deg-c).

Interesting! At the present moment I do not have access to a lathe, unfortunately :(

10:13 PM

So I may have to improvise a little bit.

Yeah, if you can manage to get your hands on another turning device, eg: drill & or your car - around 500 - 700 RPM, 1400 RPM is ideal - it takes around 5 minutes to take off 0.1mm (good enough) with a 80 grid paper. After that you can take off another 0.05 with a 200 grid paper to get a good finish. On the lathe, it rather wants around 2 mm depth of cut to have to have a mirror finish. Enjoy, don't forget to use lots of water during the sanding (needs good grinding paper as well)- saves a lot of grind paper. Good luck

Thanks! Ill build a jig for it

Hi, we are building a sheet press. And were wondering if anyone used the heat putty, that they suggest on the BOM?

@AntonL Ideally you want to ream your cartridge holes to 12mm - but reaming definitely requires a good setup and precise technique so it’s not for everyone. The heat putty works ok if you don’t have such a setup.

1:05 PM

Alternatively you can cut a slot in the side of each block (even with a hacksaw, and by tightening down the mounting bolts, you’re effectively clamping down on the element which should ensure better heat transfer

1

@michael_makes_ Thanks for the advice, we don't really have such a setup. But have you worked with the heat putty? We heard it was a pain in the ass to work with, and doesn't really stuck to anything. We are using a slightly different heat cartridges of 10mm. But we already bored the aluminum blocks with a 10mm. We are considering 3 options, the heat putty, your alternate solution or we use a tube of 12mm with inside diameter of 10mm but we make a slid in the tube. Then we bore the aluminium with 11.5mm and press the tube inside with a press. and then the cartridges also with the press. What do you think?

Yes we used the heat putty to build the V4 press. It was a bit tricky to work with (thicker and less sticky than we expected, kind of like plasticine). But with some patience, we managed to get a good fit and I would say it was better than nothing but not ideal either.

1:24 PM

My gut tells me the alternative slot method would be the best option (we hadn’t thought of it back then) but it’s untested so I can’t say for sure. Would be great to know how you end up solving it, I know this is the tricky bit for many people.

okay thanks for the advice, we will keep you updated

@AntonL - a 0.25 undersized drill and a shop press will do

Hi everyone. I'm looking for recommendations of where to buy seamless tube in the UK. struggling to find it in the sizes shown in the PP drawings.

Can someone give me the link for the drawings of the machines? I have looked all over the website but I'm not finding them??

@KiminMX https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

@Eric Lotze check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZPMRKLgNbg

@Deleted User Hey, have you found any info on the machine or how to make it? thanks

Roman Neskashev

PETBOT in action (making fillament)

@tubaro1 nope, just another person selling closed source hardware on a open source platform

1

Oh, shut

maybe we can reverse engineering it. The main component is the heater, it turns the flat shape to a cilinder, i imagine that's a cone and it get push somehow. Any ideas?

Hey everyone. Is anyone successfully running their shredder with a single phase motor?

@tubaro1 change a percentage of it and it could be claimed a new design open souce that design

Hi! Anyone have the design files for https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/set-up-an-injection-workspace ? The cutt.ly link on the webpage isn't working.

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1:19 PM

Ha! I scrolled up to find it in here. Discord FTW

Hello everyone in @here! @Dante and I wanted to come up with an alternative to the shredder - so we've created a server for people to share their ideas and talk about this machine. The 2 major goals of this server are: 1) to make/find an alternative design that is cheaper and easier-to-build-at-home so that more people can get into plastic recycling without having to make a big investment or needing lots of experience with tools (mainly people in poor countries, hobbyists, small scale workshops, etc); 2) to compile all the important information in a "complete guide to DIY shredders" and release it open source somewhere online. This way future builders and DIYers can find useful information more easily. People can share ideas, build prototypes or better yet, both. Keep in mind that the objective of this project is not to replace the PP shredder, but to find a beginner friendly solution to shred plastics, even if it's not super efficient or powerful. We have more information on the server if you want to check it out. Feel free to join, the more people there are, the better. Thank you for your time. https://discord.gg/WQw2Qsf

Invite to join a server

Shredder's ReDesign

1-introduction

hi there, anyone here that can or know somebody who produce injection moulds ?

@marek kucharz Hi! Probably it's a good idea to indicate where are you located

a couple of things I noticed with the sheetpress electronic 1. might be good - even though for no reason to put a powerswitch per press plate in place - steaks :-) 2. the 'recommended' SSR - 40A relay makes actually no sense since it's anyway just used to switch the high power relay, with that users can use the more recommended Inkbirds kits which have some interesting parameters as well. 3. the high power relays are magnetic based, with a lifetime of 1 mio switches according to specs, possibly good idea to revise this decision since the relay alone is 120E 4. there is enough space to install the fan electronics 5. when selling it as kit, put plugs in place instead 6. the BOM should incl. a good distribution terminal, 4 channels 7. cartridge heater wires should be easily accessible for easy testing (maintenance), you will need anyway extra 2 pole ceramic blocks (also missing in the BOM). ideally the cabinet provides the testing circuit already as well. However, we're wondering how we could make this accessible to 220V users by creating a serial buffer and queue PID to Relay signals in a timed circular buffer (which has a time buffer length limit). You can do this with a better Arduino (Controllino) or if you have the nuts, using a shift register / timer cluster fuck. Any ideas how to build such 'serialisation'? According to the numbers, each press plate could be divided into 4 zones, each zone is heat up delayed, never all at once. With that you could also avoid the magnetic relays all together - since the SSR are better suited for higher switch rates. stay awesome, (edited)

Btw. our electronics guru suggested inverters which enable solar input but also fine control over the heaters

Hi guys, i wanna make shredder, extrusion, injection and compression in my home.... what will be the capital?? And what machine parts are needed to make it??

Re sheetpress partition controller, another option would be to get rid of the PID anyways. For v4+ extruder we would need a modbus PID controller (touchscreen). You can get those as DIN rail module on Alibaba too but no OS firmware. The 'only' problem left is to get an auto-tuning on there, I tried a few things but didn't worked too well, yet. However, I think it worth the effort, 99% of all PP users sit on 220V. Don't worry about modbus/uart, code quality, .. etc... That's covered by us. Since this one is really important to us - we can imagine to set out a bounty - I just got no time til Nov. This would be the first bounty, I am open to suggestions ... Sheets seem to be the more viable option according to our users. dm me & enjoy yourself :-) g (edited)

`

Oh, shut

maybe we can reverse engineering it. The main component is the heater, it turns the flat shape to a cilinder, i imagine that's a cone and it get push somehow. Any ideas?

@tubaro1 I think it just pulls the plastic with the stepper motor, the blue pieces guide the plastic, and the heating block doesn't seem any special, with all that, I'm just saying that the key is likely to be using the right speed at the right temperature

5:58 PM

But I don't know how good that is, without anyting cooling the filament it has to go slow, as it goes in the video

5:58 PM

otherwise it may deform

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Open_Source_Electric_Motor_Analysis_of_Industry_Standards

Open Source Electric Motor Analysis of Industry Standards

6:50 PM

OSE is doing more motor work today i guess

6:50 PM

ALSO

6:51 PM

@Blackout OSE is plotting something similar

6:51 PM

we should collaborate to not produce wasted work!

Thank you @Eric Lotze, I did not know about that. I recently joined the OSE server but I haven't done extensive research on it. We totally should! (edited)

did you watch the ted talk yet?

I did

alrighty

7:59 PM

do you have any questions on general ose-ery (edited)

Well, the concept looks amazing to be honest. I guess I'll read the previous messages on ose server since I have some free time now. If any questions come to me I'll ask you over there or I'll dm you

Yeah we can run over to the discord. I will join yours, and make a sub-channel on the OSE one for shredder work

Cool, that sounds awesome. Thank you!

@Eric Lotze I didn't realize you're the one running OSE?! Been a fan of the concept since ages ago.

i would't say RUNNING it, but i made the discord and lurk on social media/online in general way more than others (edited)

fair enough.

Hola como estan? acabo de descargar los archivos para construir la shredder, pero estan los de shredder pro y no quier construir esa aun, por favor alguien que me ayude o me diga si son lo mismo o no. Y otra cosa, abro los archivos pero solo se ven letras raras pero imagino que es mi pc, alguien que me ayude por favor

8:38 PM

Hello. How are they? I just downloaded the files to build the shredder, but there are the shredder pro's and I don't want to build that one yet, please someone to help me or tell me if they are the same or not. And another thing, I open the files but only weird letters are seen but I imagine it is my pc, someone to help me please

@QloqBarber Shredder Pro (two axis) and Shredder (one axis) are not the same machine. I'm not sure about the file for the shredder but someone else can answer this one. What software do you use to open the files? You should use appropriate CAD software or the software that correspond with the type of files.

@Ley Klussyn I already found everything that I am missing is something to open the steps to follow on the phone or my pc is wrong. And my question is where it says "STEP" that is the folder where are the steps to follow?

Hello, do you know what is the recommended torque of the shredder motor and the extruder? In the basic version

Shredder is 300nm, Extruder is 109nm. https://preciousplastic.com/solutions/machines/basic.html

Precious Plastic Basic Machines

The Basic machines are perfect to get started into plastic recycling and create educational workshops. These are the Shredder, Extrusion, Injection and Compression machine.

Would it be a bad idea to run plastic through the shreder and ejector that has a bit of cooking oil on it?

Washing the plastic is always recommended, what type of plastic is it?

pp and hdpe

Who has the experience of building v4 extrusion?

8:39 PM

Anyone here?

some of our plastic is in fragments from beaches. I'm thinking of float testing. To seperate PP, we'd use veg oil. Oil is difficult to wash off... but becasue it's just another type of oil, like the plastic, sort of, im hoping it wouldnt be that big a deal. I'd probably foat test large peices, seperate, let them air/drip dry. They'd have that oily film. Do you think that would cause problems in the long run? gum up the shredder maybe? burn off in the extruder perhaps? Or! maybe it would help everything run more smoothly

Can a large bin with dish soap work, or does even that not work

8:44 PM

I think the shredder would be fine with the oil, my concern is the melting process

soapy bucket would do something yep. Less steps would be nice though

definetly, i was plotting either a magnetic stirrer, or an airator for auto-mixing

8:46 PM

would remove all dirt and whatnot too

We use the oil veg test and contamination has never been an issue. You just need to test a fragment that you can dry with a piece of paper

Forgot you were the person i was talking to a while back, and you have the youtube channel right?

we'd be floating large amounts of fragmented plastics collected from beaches. i picture every peice needing to be floated, almost. having a big barrel, spending a day after a clean up with our hand and eyes seperating hard plastics. floating whats been narrowed down in oil to seperate out our pp and hdpe. maybe doing a water test first maybe to eliminate any ps or pet that slipped past the eye and hand tests.... (edited)

i think some "line" of all the process bucket/tubs would be good to plan out? (i am no way an expert, just like to read up and plot out stuff)

8:56 PM

so plastic mess from beach in one side, then the basic water wash, then basic sun drying, then oil seperation, then final soap wash, water rinse, then on to the drying workfow? (edited)

8:57 PM

how do you store the plastic fragments/ transport them from the beach?

ya an assembly line style set up would be efficient. currently we have an office space on the beach that we collect from. the operation is very small right now. in the planning phase mostley (edited)

8:58 PM

future transport would be by ponga or boat

What containers will the plastic be in?

we are working with a sailing school that wants to offer beach cleans as team building exersises, and to schools that come out. so they would collect, seperate visually on the beach. bag the material and load it into a boat. once brought back to the sorting center, this is where i envision the float test experiments happening, educational and part of the process.. they could then have the foam part! hah... and clean everything in the soapy buckets. then drying tables/sun baskets/..... so ya maybe just including the cleaning, make it part of the game.. and reduce the oil going through the machines...

9:09 PM

We use a durable plastic type burlap bag... im not exactley sure what their proper name is. they are used here a lot to transport sand for contruction. we have some large ones for the cleanups. they got a plastic weave thing goin on. very strong so great for reusing in the filed (edited)

these? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flexible_intermediate_bulk_container

9:16 PM

or the smaller sacs

9:16 PM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandbag#Bulk_bags

9:16 PM

Anyhow, i made this diagram:

1

9:17 PM

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EXeRL3AiCI64vfm5eC3RbhhU48QQHENL/view?usp=sharing

Untitled Diagram.drawio

@Poly Pearl instead of oil you can use an alcohol-water mixture to float-seperate those two types of plastic. It still may vary between different levels of additives, but it evaporates by itself

wow cool! thanks guys! (edited)

i'm digging for info on seperation liquids

9:59 PM

lab for kids is suprisingly concise and informative: http://www.wakegov.com/recycling/recycle/ftb/Documents/Lesson%20Plans/Plastics_Identification_Rev.pdf

10:00 PM

pg 4

wow... your amazing, who are you and why are you so helpful!

i'm in jacksonville Fl, adhd+ocd is one hell of a drug, you read one wikipedia page, and next thing you know, you have 50 tabs open and are learning industrial seperation processes

i applaud and thank you!

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Unknown_Plastic_Waste_Workflow

Unknown Plastic Waste Workflow

12:20 AM

Documenting my plots here

mostly done, short of making a chart include EVERYTHING, and this may allow for thermosets, and other plastics such as PC slip through and cause accidental mixing

12:56 AM

Also not "optimized"

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Unknown_Plastic_Waste_Workflow

@Eric Lotze great doc, a colleague of ours is setting this up, seems you could also add this info to it. Hoping to make this a go to resource for recycling info globally.

Unknown Plastic Waste Workflow

2:19 AM

https://recyclopaedia.org.au/wiki/The_Avenue?fbclid=IwAR3JFvtoVHByi5d7dKq88LUHkK7Q2um6C1lQipB-6Ua40M4SWDiVRxeCitk

The Avenue

#deleted-channel alguém pode me ajudar com bico de injeção, estou na duvida como é este bico

Here to report progress on the Precious Plastic Philippines v4 shredder results (not the standard v4)

2:30 AM

2:31 AM

We are at unit number 6 in the build.

2:33 AM

Unit number 1 of the new build design series is working good. We used tool steel blades 8mm thick and a 3/8 inch screen.

2:35 AM

issues that came up: 1 China motors not available 2 electric plugs needed to upgrade 3 tool steel blades took a long time to get heat treat and sharpened. Also expensive. 4 need upgraded caster wheels

Anyone tried to build the sheet press by themselves?

4:58 PM

My partner and I are debating building it ourselves vs. buying off someone in the bazaar

4:59 PM

Would love to hear someone's experience or any machine shop recommendations to buy from

Very cool!

Anyone got a link on how to program a pid? Asking for somone in the Mexico chat. I can translate it from english.

11:05 PM

Says the instructions are in Chinese

Unit number 2 1 We switched to Teco motors from Taiwan. 150USD more expensive 2 We supply a indutstrial plug AND socket with the machine now. 3 raised prices after this batch 4 Changed to Hardox AR500 steel blades 5 got ripped off on sharpening again 6 bought a bench grinder, and cross slide vice to make our own diy surface grinder. I have a bench grinder now, but I figure a dedicated new grinder will work better. Will fabricate a framework to hold everything. In house blade sharpening and 2 sets of machine blade labor is more than building my own machine in parts costs.

3:11 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENsiGDORtZI

metzindustries

Precious Plastic Philippines extrusion

3:16 AM

Now issues with wet plastic. Looking at building a dryer. Either a tumble dryer or a silo type and auger to stir it. Silimar to a corn dryer. Silo type was thinking 3 steel 55 gallon drums welded end to end to make one tank. angle bar welded lateral for strength and for the legs. Auger to pull plastic from bottom to the top, 2hp air blower to push air thru the unit. We can then unload the material using the vacuum collection system we already have in place.

3:18 AM

tumbler system could be lower cost, but more space taken up and not easy to unload or process large amounts of plastic. We are very limitied in space.

In economic news... Philippines shredder sales post (worlds longest lockdown) have resumed. More inquiry about molding plastic as we slowly build our own small scale molding plant for ourselves. Price wise, Precious Plastic Philippines is much lower than the import Chinese machines or the backyard low quality product builders. With local competition, we are doing a much higher grade product using fiber laser cutting, CNC bending, 3D CAD modelling, 3D printing, MIG welding, and putting a large portion of the sales profits back into the shop and research. As of now, I only take enough to cover my basic living, which is quite low as we do not have debt.

3

4

@Butte (PP Philippines) Many of us started in the backyard and I have seen lot´s of love put into products - that´s what makes the PP eco system unique though and sometimes I´ve seen better detail work done than in a streamlined production. It´s an important phase on the road of the manufacturer from tomorrow

I´d also argue that outsourced parts/machining make a good product alone when important stages as the assembly line or post production is still done in a homebrew like environment as a better shop. There is also long term support, warranty, manuals, infrastructure to make your product really roundish :-) As we´ve got told multiple times, at some point you don´t do anything but design and outsource & manage the production by certified vendors and contractors. Let´s not forget that production ideally accounts only for 10% - 20% in a vital and competitive company. On the other hand, we found the other 80% indeed excessive but exciting (setting up affiliates, distribution networks, campaigns, etc. ), as beginners though

At the end what matters more is the actual sale(s) than details in production though, and we think it makes sense to make larger batches outside and own only tool room machines, at max. Play time is long over :-) Great work, Butte. Can´t wait to see more details about certain things as sheet metal design, the problems you´ve encountered and how you mastered it ...

Shredder 3 was done in DesignSpark Mechanical software. Not a good sheet metal program, but it is what I had. Laser cutting and Bending is outsourced. Lathe work is outsourced. Even though I sell the big industrial fiber lasers in my other business, I am unable to afford one for myself, nor have room or electricity to run one. On the other hand likely another CNC plasma table will be in the future to do small items and quick jobs rather than waiting 2 weeks for a bracket or simple item. Shredder deisgn 4 was done in Siemens software by our Workaway volunteer from the Netherlands earlier this year. He also did the design for the compression molder we use. Building at present takes up about 30% of my time. The rest is sales, and marketing. Unfortunately while I really like being in the shop, I have to mind the phones, email, FB pages etc as inquiry constantly come in.

fyi... here is some good info https://youtu.be/78bM615koOo

TheCrafsMan SteadyCraftin

DIY Injection Molds (Inject plastic into silicone!) - "This changes...

I was recently browsing the precious plastic website trying to find the plans for the basic shredder and the only folder I could find was the .zip file in this page: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21 I'm assuming the only way to get the specific basic shredder dimensions is by measuring the .dxf files in a CAD software? Thanks in advance (edited)

@Deleted User Yes! Use any ruler tool in CAD you use. There are also lots of reference PDFs in the main download kit, in the Build folder.

5:44 PM

huge fan of Moog, btw...

Thanks. I was unsure if that was the only option. I kind of was expecting a .pdf that contained the rest of the measurements but no problem. Didn't really think I would find people into moog in here tbh. I really like synths as well

2

Hey guys. Working on the piston for my injector. I want to try something different than the standard lever. Do you think this will be fast enough to push the plastic through?

8:21 PM

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-air-hydraulic-bottle-jack-94487.html

12 ton Air/Hydraulic Bottle Jack

8:22 PM

https://youtu.be/lUJ5yiAjwtk

Alan Yelvington

Pimp Your Press with a Harbor Freight 95553 20-ton Pneumatic Bottle...

8:23 PM

Or should I go with an electric drill/scissor jack instead?

hi guys, i need some help. Im a mechanical engineering student from the Philippines. I would like to know the feed rate of PET plastics to any shredder machine that you've built, as well as the power and speed of its motor and the size of the mesh or size of the shredded plastic. As a reference for my calculation to the machine that Im designing. thanks

@Deathmog No. Even a pneumatic- driven hydraulic piston will be to slow. If you want to adapt you will need an hydraulic aggregate for a hydraulic piston.

Ok. Thanks for your input! I do like the idea of the scissor jack as I can implement it easily. I was thinking of running it with an electric motor and chain. I may try to experiment a bit. Worst case scenario I'll go with the classic lever

2:36 PM

What do you think?

@Deathmog There are quite some pneumatic diy injection machines on youtube. Speed does not seem to be an issue.

I saw a post about someone using a log splitter, a bit overkill imo but boy could it move!

the one on the left side: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0VKkbx3-3Y

Fartools

Fendre du bois rapidement: Fendeur de bûche horizontal rapide 7T FA...

I'm looking at upgrading our shredder, it needs more torque. What specs should I be looking for in regards to a motor (3 phase) and a gear box (down to 30 rpm)

@Deathmog Pneumatic itself works - just the hydraulic ones with a pneumatic "drive" are too slow. Just think about that the Piston should move in 2-3sec. all the way down as a rough reference. This gives you a good start. I am still waiting that someone builds a full electric piston machine with a rack and pinion system. Has some cool advantages like measuring current = force and accurate positional changes for compressing or other neat functions.

Ah, I see what you mean @Fritz @easymoulds

Hey, for the simple injection moulding machine, do people tend to build the plunger as a solid tube of metal, or a hollow one, with a couple of plugs then added?

Hey, any thoughts using the v4 extruder as print head ? The client says the robot supports a 130KG payload

this 'modules' come to mind: 1. proper VFD via Modbus/RS485. Omron or friends 2. a fork of universal gcode sender, the bridge to the VFD, providing M codes to the printer firmware 3. proper cooling units - if really needed but extended or advanced PID control - for sure, also via modbus -> gcode bridge (working on it anyway :-) 4. universal barrel extension, hosting various screw tips (up to 15 cm length) 5. feeding system, as discussed but outstanding/unresolved since long 6. grooved barrel - also an outstanding discussion, there might be still affordable rifle-barrel machines out there. ... possibly you could re-configure a honing machine too, input welcome as well anything I missed ? let m know - customer success first

(edited)

Hey guys! Question.... Does anyone know if these are any good? https://www.ebay.com/itm/254677357205 it looks like they're generic but would fit a normal electric motor

Techtongda Industrial MRV040 Worm Gear 40:1 Speed Reduce 250W

Worm Gear Speed Reducer. RV40 series worm gear coupled speed reducer. 1 Worm Gear Speed Reducer. Simple operation, long service life, high efficiency. High quality reducer has an all aluminum heat sinking designed housing with epoxy coating.

@CrabbyApples I would pass on those. 1) no spec sheet 2) these are usually cast aluminum and you have to be specific about the rated output torque. 3) this ad describes the material as "high quality medal" and makes me wonder if the seller knows what they're made of.

Hi guys, anyone had issues with SSR going Ka-Poot and melting before ultimately tripping whole circuit on any machines. My compression machine has done it three times

@linnto Is it rated correctly? Also, is it by chance fotek? (they're notorious for being badly cloned and only rated at half power)

3:18 PM

@CitSciWorkshop @Anne vs the Gang Thank you! I'll keep looking.... I have all the parts for the shredder, but I can't find any motors under $400... And the ones I find under 200 don't have reducers, and then I look at reducers and they're all over the board and usually expensive

Excuse me, I'm new, and I want to see the blueprints of the basic Shredder, because i'm gonna build it. I do not know why i can not see anythig, maybe i suppose that the problem is the extension of the files. Please, could somebody help me?

@NandoFer need some more information. Do you have the files from the precious Plastics website? What happens when you open the files? What extension are you specifically having an issue with?

Basically, Adobe Reader, can not open the file

3:24 PM

I save in my computer the pack of information from the oficial webpage

3:30 PM

This is the file that I downloaded

Did you unzip the file?

Yes, those are both folders there

Save that pdf to your desktop and try to open it again

Did you try to open a file from the _MACOSX folder?

which program are you using to open those files?, particularly the blueprints

3:48 PM

Basically, Adobe Reader, can not open the file

@NandoFer @Blackout Yes, and it was what happened

You can ditch that folder

3:49 PM

use the files inside the "precious-plastic.starterkit-shredder" folder (edited)

Okey, Now, it's working

3:53 PM

thanks

3:53 PM

Great

Hi everyone! I'm new here. I really need some help, can't figure out which method is ideal to make big plastic boxes, and if it is possible to make it in non-industrial machine sizes, cuz i need to start on my own... ps: I'm not an engineer

@Breeza big as in which size? Assuming you're looking for something you need to carry "with both hands", either you can look into "making 5 sheets and stitching them together" or "using a big 3d printer". Industrial boxes are injected I think, but with the dimensions you will need a bit injected machine, I'm unsure PP ones can handle that.

1

Would this work for the shredder? i can get a VFD for the 3ph power - 1.5hp and 50rpm https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sew-Eurodrive-SA57DT90S4-Gearmotor-38-23-1-45-51rpm-3ph-1-1-2hp-1-1-2in-230-460v/303335300362?hash=item46a0315d0a:g:jUgAAOSw3vpdsvwk

Sew Eurodrive SA57DT90S4 Gearmotor 38.23:1 45.51rpm 3ph 1-1/2hp 1-1...

Tool Storage. Solenoid Valves. Solenoid Coils. Shock Absorbers. Safety and Security. Rotary Lobe Blowers. Roller Chains. Relief Valves.

@CrabbyApples seems to generally fit the bill

@Anne vs the Gang do you have any recommendations on where to look? I feel like I find stuff and it's either really expensive, or potentially really old

11:40 PM

In the USA

Hi guys just new! I’m looking at building the machines but do not know where to get the blueprints from could someone help me out cheers from Gold Coast Australia

@CrabbyApples Are you resourcing for Basic or Pro?

5:29 AM

You can go a bit lower in kw if you're looking at basic, to keep cost down and depending on what you are going to shred.

5:35 AM

Nominal Power 1.5 kW minimum

Hi guys, i'm looking for the blueprints of the basic Shredder. Could someone help me? please.

@NandoFer Have you downloaded the main zip folder from the official site?

@CitSciWorkshop Yes, I did it, but I could find only the zip of the PRO Shredder

Its in there!

In the Build folder, there is a Shredder folder, and Shredder Pro

yes, but i want to see the Basic

, and there, there are only files of "Pro". Because i don't have budget

The Basic Shredder is folder 1 in the Build Folder. PreciousPlastics\v4\precious-plastic-kit-Version-4\3. Build\1. Shredder

ok guy, thanks

@Breeza big as in which size? Assuming you're looking for something you need to carry "with both hands", either you can look into "making 5 sheets and stitching them together" or "using a big 3d printer". Industrial boxes are injected I think, but with the dimensions you will need a bit injected machine, I'm unsure PP ones can handle that.

@Ley Klussyn like ~45L, something to carry with both hands indeed. Do you know if the box would be resistant if I stitch 5 sheets together? And how can i do this process... if i would have to use a blowtorch or something

Hi im looking for someone in the uk who can supple HDPE plastic flat bar or thick shee?

1

10:55 PM

1

10:55 PM

Some progress on the machine ice been building. Had the idea to mount it to my tire machine so I've been sort of improvising this whole thing

10:55 PM

Have to paint it and put lipstick on the pig still :)

10:57 PM

Right now it's operated by a drill but I'd like to go chain driven. Unfortunately I only have one motor I salvaged from a drill press, and it's non-reversible. Does anyone know of any engineering magic I can use to run the chain drive forward and reverse, without getting a new motor?

Hello, good afternoon, can someone help me please. I am looking for the plans to build the injection machine and I cannot find them on the Precious Plastic page

Anyone has been looking into making an ionizer bar to reduce statics?

Morning... Some updates on the tech front from Precious Plastic Philippines. With our new shredder, we have now shredded in excess of 100 kilos HDPE bottle caps using the vacuum collector. I did not time it, but I estimate that we are at least 100 kilos per hour with the vacuum collection thru a 1/4 inch screen. The vacuum collector pulls the plastic downward into the cutter and thru the screen rather than plastic just getting stirred up. This morning we had a visitor from a printing company, and he wanted to try the shredder with waste print labels. We shredded without vacuum and it only worked sort of. With the added vacuum, we shredded it with ease into a coarse sawdust consistency. The material will be mixed in concrete blocks.

3

likely if you want to shred plastic bags and sachet you will need to add on a vacuum collection system to a high speed shredder.

very cool. so its pulling a vacuum through the teeth from below?

hello, i am now a member of the precious plastic, intrested in doing my best to the society by recycling plastic into good useful articles / items of daily use.

8:31 PM

i am from india & look forward to the support of entire precious plastic community.

Hello. Glad to see such a great group. I need some help with hopefully a quick question on screw bore size. We received a donation of a couple commercial extruders that once made soap. The machines have plenty of power (3 or 5 HP motors) but are either 2.5" extruder bore diameter or 4". Does anyone have experience on using larger bore diameters for plastic? I notice most of the DIY machines are about 1". Thanks!

Some people were talking about shredding plastic bags. We were surprised to learn that if we take off the injection hopper and just shove whole bags into the hole, we're able to compress them down and melt as usual. A few notes though: they are quite springy so you have to put more pressure to inject. There are more air bubbles but that didn't affect the products we made. Anyone else tried this? Any tips for doing it better?

Hi everyone, i was wondering if anyone knows what the capacity is for the V3 Extrusion machine. Mine is super close to being to spec but the machinist had some limitations with their lathe so it's a little different. I get about 2kg/hour

very cool. so its pulling a vacuum through the teeth from below?

@Dorkmo not teeth. We developed our own shredder design with 11 blades (9 rotating hardox steel) at 600 rpm. similar to the design seen on ebay from China. (edited)

2

For a shredder what is the cheapest I can get away with

@Butte (PP Philippines) , nice - thanks for the info. how many stationary blades do you have ? I have seen often 2 in larger builds. Was wondering to build something similar, 2 motors & double belt or chain .. Btw. anyone knows the steps or the process to build machines with custom castings ?

@Housane likely a multisheet paper shredder is the cheapest. Totally DIY, at own risk, etc.

2 stationary blades. If we use a blunt edge we can pulverize glass too

5:39 AM

so what about this as the start of a extrusion machine? No blades of screen. The larger screw attaches to a drill bit and barrel is on a flange in place of the screen, so it will feet effeciently. likely the motor will need a aux cooling fan for long use, but seems interesting

Hello everybody! Im Dahl from México, I was wondering if somebody have an idea of how can I make a cube-like structure with the sheets (6 sheets toguether), that can store water. Ive been thinkin about a glue but im not sure it will resist the pressure of water? or maybe some iron structure? I dont know... Any ideas /suggestions? Gracias!! PreciousPlastic

1

@Dahlia something that fuses each side fully might do that. Or plastic weld the seams.

Caulked aluminum corners and angle aluminum would seal for low pressure and not rust... There are options.

1

Hello everybody! Im Dahl from México, I was wondering if somebody have an idea of how can I make a cube-like structure with the sheets (6 sheets toguether), that can store water. Ive been thinkin about a glue but im not sure it will resist the pressure of water? or maybe some iron structure? I dont know... Any ideas /suggestions? Gracias!! PreciousPlastic

@Dahlia Maybe plastic welding as suggested and then a line of caulking on the inside edges to be sure. May I ask what you're making?

Hi everyone, i was wondering if anyone knows what the capacity is for the V3 Extrusion machine. Mine is super close to being to spec but the machinist had some limitations with their lathe so it's a little different. I get about 2kg/hour

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug We get between 6 and 8 I think

Hello guys! just a question: can we make a plastic cylinder(20cm,5 cm radius) with the Precious plastic injector?

That could probably be done with the right piece of pipe

@bmbaron I want to make a water storage medium tank. What do you think? With something that resist pressure and leackings...

@Skip The bore diameter of the extrusion machines shouldn't matter as long as the heaters are capable of heating it evenly. Out of curiosity do the machines have a proper compression screw? (aka one with 3 zones)

it is not about the zones, and yes the bore is a big part of the variable in a extrusion machine. You need to adjust several things. 1 Bore 2 flights per disstance. aka screw pitch 3 length 4 temperature 5 RPM based on our extensive testing the absolute maximum for the v3 screw is 6.4kg per hour. Using a water pipe with loose fit resulted in a signifigant drop in effiency We bored a steel round bar with a slide fit for the screw to overcome this particle size affects melt and feed rate. the finer the better. Making large tanks IS possible but likely will not result in a nice finish. You can also end up with cracking and other issues if you extrude at too high of heat. How we do this is by using welding gloves. We spray the weld glove with silicone spray aka furniture polish. We need to use several pairs of gloves as they need to be changed when they get too hot to protect the hands. We extrude and mold the HDPE plastic like clay over a metal form. I suppose you would also mold over a wood form as well. Our experiments are limited to only a few tests. We used a small stainless steel bowl and molded on the outside which gave a shiny inside finish and a acceptable rustic looking plant container at the expense of using a LOT of plastic. We molded a larger bowl on the inside of a bowl with less than ideal results. Extensive cracking and likely the higher temperature extrusion combined with PET contamination played a part. Other objects molded from hot HDPE plastic by hand resulted in a extremely wrinkled clay shaped looking object. Our research idea was around wether we could make a boat with the hand form method and use a wood plane to smooth the surface. Our experiments have not been too extensive but there seems to be promise for someone to take it farther.

2

4:03 AM

since HDPE shrinks as it cools, you will need to design your form that presses against the plastic as it cools keeping it in place, however you will also need to account for draft. aka the ability to remove the plastic from the mold. The shrink plastic could physically bond with the bold not by sticking rather by mechanical strength. The jury is still out on building boats in this manner. However if it coule be pulled off and documented, you could make a high value HDPE boat hull from relatively low cost startingpoint. a finished HDPE hull is 80k euro from a Dutch company I contacted, however a hand molded HDPE hull could possibly be constructed for maybe half that cost including the investment in machinery and molds. Likely even less than that. Think of rotomolding by combined with hand forming or a plastic stucco application.

Thanks @Isometric. I was google-learning and learned there is such a thing called L/D ratio, where soap is about 9:1, plastic is about 30:1 and various foods are in between. I still may have issues with the short length of these soap extruders (compared to the 4" bore) but I guess experimentation is best. Yes, the screws looks to have 3 pitch differences. (edited)

@bmbaron I want to make a water storage medium tank. What do you think? With something that resist pressure and leackings...

@Dahlia It's an interesting idea. It just sounds very difficult to make it watertight and handle the pressure. I don't know much about making something like that

is there any one on here that has built the shredder pro

@Ken Sulman hi Ken, Yes we do.

Also with extrusion screws, the whole geometry plays a part in proper melting of plastic. Actually most of the melting in an extruder is done by friction from the drive motor. In industry sometimes they even have to cool the barrel to keep temperatures stable. The compression zone also plays a big part in this in a 3 zone screw. In injection molding screws the L/D is usually 20:1 up to 25:1. For compounding extruders that can by even longer. The feeding part of the screw has to be balanced with the compression and metering zone to allow for proper functioning. It's a complicated topic.

Hi, I have an injection question. We have a lasercut mold for making coasters, but it's always a guess as to whether the mold is full when we inject and how much pressure is required. We're getting better, but we still have often fail by either not injecting enough or too much. So, I want to try cutting a small hole in the top plate of the mold in hopes that when we see plastic pushing up thorugh the hole, it's an indication that the mold is full. Anyone tried this or have any tips for getting perfect injections every time? Our injection machine is basic like the V1 machine. (edited)

Hi, in our coaster mould has 4 vents drilled at the edge for air flow, it is like 2mm

Hello, does anyone know where I can find all the files (Blue Prints, .STEP files, PDFs) about both Basic Extruder and Basic Shredder? I've downloaded 2 zip files on https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download and there's only files for the Pro variant of the machines... Thanks in advance!

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

@Rúben Martins the the Build folder there should be separate folders for Shredder, and the Shredder Pro. The one labeled simply as Shredder is the basic version.

@CitSciWorkshop Thanks for your fast reply! I've opened the folder and there is only 2 sub-folders there: The Extrusion Pro and the Upgrades one

12:34 AM

12:35 AM

as seen here

ah, here let me try and find the right download for you...

Thanks in advance!

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

12:36 AM

wait same link (edited)

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/releases/download/V4.1/precious-plastic-kit.zip

12:37 AM

this might work

I'll have a check on that! Thanks!

\v4\precious-plastic-kit-Version-4\3. Build <--- Should be more folders in here.

12:39 AM

this is the path

That's it @Blackout Thank you both very much! @CitSciWorkshop

Glad it worked. Precious Plastic should probably update the "shredder workspace" folder by adding the files of the basic shredder to it. It would probably help a lot of people

Ah, maybe a post in #deleted-channel would help someone who can update that to see it.

I've got one more question: While building the Basic Extrusion Machine with a wood drill, should I leave any gap between the Drill and the Nozzle, or should they be as close as possible?

Ah, maybe a post in #deleted-channel would help someone who can update that to see it.

@CitSciWorkshop Should I tag anyone in specific or do I just post it as a normal message?

Might help to tag the v4-team

Got it. Thank you for the suggestion!

@Rúben Martins From some research I've done, leaving a gap between your nossle and the "extrusion screw" can actually be beneficial.

1:33 PM

https://youtu.be/oRNgIu3K7vg?t=66

HomoFaciens

DIY direct granules extruder

1:33 PM

this is a timestamped video which explains the logic behind that

@Rúben Martins From some research I've done, leaving a gap between your nossle and the "extrusion screw" can actually be beneficial.

@Isometric thank you very much!

does anyone have any plans for a welding free shredder?

5:29 PM

and on that is a s cheap as possible, thanks

@Housane Buy a shredding box on the bazar, search a gearbox-motor, a coupling and screw everything on a massive metal or wood table

thanks

Hi! i´m trying to build the extrusion machine but i don´t have the money to afford an industrial extrusion screw and i wanna buy the wood drill, Does anyone know the measurements of the wood drill that Dave used in the video?

how does heating work during extrusion? Is it purely by friction?

12:33 AM

or is there a heating element/coil

@Rúben Martins From some research I've done, leaving a gap between your nossle and the "extrusion screw" can actually be beneficial.

@Isometric our barrel has a 175mm space to give more melt time and add more heat. after the end of the screw.

2:09 AM

https://youtu.be/TcnhXc_894M our full process. Combo of new footage and from the previous video with descriptions in title cards of the steps.

metzindustries

DIY Plastic Recycling HDPE

1

Thank you very much! It is much appreciated!

Chair 0.1. I needed a office chair and it was too much of a hassle to go to the store. So I cut up 6dollars of galvanized tubing, pressed out a couple flat sheets in about 20 min and this was the result. If we was to do production a proper mold should be made and a smaller frame. We took dimensions from a broken monoblock chair and then shredded it.

1

@Rai You need Band heater

Hi! i´m trying to build the extrusion machine but i don´t have the money to afford an industrial extrusion screw and i wanna buy the wood drill, Does anyone know the measurements of the wood drill that Dave used in the video?

@NaotoHayashi Hey, this version does not work well but if its all you can do get the barrel/pipe first and then match a drill bit to it. The pipe used is around 1" or 25mm

Hello guys! I am building the extrusion machine. However i came with one idea to save costs. I got the extrusion screw 588mm and barrel and i am adapting it with the bearing system of the extrusion pro. My concern is : will I find some clip blushing to block my screw (15mm diameter) to the shaft? Second thing is : i am on the way to get a second hand 2 sides gearbox in order to use -the 2,2kw motor i already have-in the same time with my actual shredder. I will find a way to start the start the motor only if my barrel is already enough hot. In this way i would be able to use shredder and extrusion machine in the same time with same motor, and save costs. But should i do the same kind of bearing connection ( like extrusion PRO) for the shredder or just adapt my shredder connection to the new shaft ? Cheers

Hey guys, I order shredder box and wondering whether I can use UCFL 205 instead of UCFL 204? If you have done it before please let me know. Thanks in advance

@NaotoHayashi Hey, this version does not work well but if its all you can do get the barrel/pipe first and then match a drill bit to it. The pipe used is around 1" or 25mm

@NoMorePlastic Yes it will work. No the results will not be so great. last using plumbing pipe is not a great idea unless that is all you can get. You need a pretty tight fit to make the screw work properly. Slide fit but little play. After all the experiments we bored out a round bar 1.75 inch to fit and the outside was turned down to 40mm for use with 40mm heat bands.

6:48 AM

https://www.facebook.com/preciousplasticphils/videos/244632553263830/ Constant improvment. one part every 2.5 min. liquid cooled compression mold. New heat exchanger added today. Much improved finish. Still air bubbles from the residual damp plastic. New batch this afternoon has been in the dryer for 24 hours. We shall see

Where can i find the Sheet Press CAD drawings? We are going to attempt to build it but I'm not sure where to find the specs and drawings. Can anyone help?

@tykapps https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hey Discord Team, Just a little update from the PP HQ team in France. We are working on improving and automating our washing system and want to hear how you do it? Yesterday we purchased a pressure washer and a drum to great effect. It even stripped the lables! Take a look at the link. https://www.instagram.com/p/CEFAxI5npid/?igshid=1wiuhoud2bbxf

thecirculardesigner

Tired of cleaning your collected plastic by hand? Big plastic drum and a pressure washer makes the process ALOT easier. Follow along as I keep hacking this process. Maybe even throw some #Arduino in there? #preciousplastic #washing #plastic #plasticwaste #recycledplastic #low...

5

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio Can you try it with these very thin labels?

If you cut a hole at the bottom of that barrel and attach a pipe to another barrel of the same size, with a filter in between, you can feed your pressure washer from the clean side and save on water.

2

@ryanstev exactly the plan!

3:04 PM

Before and after (edited)

3:05 PM

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto The bottle on the left had a very thin sticky label. The one on the right felt like the label was actually printed straight onto the plastic...so to get that off I needed to place the pressure right against it and strip the paint layer off.

3:06 PM

Cajoline bottle was cleaned in 30 seconds in the barrel without moving the nozzle

Nice job @Rory - Sustainable Design Studio !

I’m very interested in a good solution for these very thin labels. I think these are not printed. I think it’s an “In-mould-Label”, so it’s still a foil (of different plastic type?). My best solution at the moment is to scrap it off with a knife...

Keep going!

Hey Discord Team, Just a little update from the PP HQ team in France. We are working on improving and automating our washing system and want to hear how you do it? Yesterday we purchased a pressure washer and a drum to great effect. It even stripped the lables! Take a look at the link. https://www.instagram.com/p/CEFAxI5npid/?igshid=1wiuhoud2bbxf

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio We use a cheap 150USD 8.5kg size washing mchine (about 150 liters of water volume) it has no spin cycle, automated filling just a moving paddle in the bottom and a mechanical timer. We fill with about 12 kilo bottle caps that we pre rinse with the garden hose in a basket to remove the major dirt. We wash for 15 min with some bleach and a small amount of dish soap. then we spread to dry on a elevated table we made from scrap metal and plastic fence mesh. Stirring occasionally and letting the sun dry it.

thecirculardesigner

Tired of cleaning your collected plastic by hand? Big plastic drum and a pressure washer makes the process ALOT easier. Follow along as I keep hacking this process. Maybe even throw some #Arduino in there? #preciousplastic #washing #plastic #plasticwaste #recycledplastic #low...

@Butte (PP Philippines) What kind of bleach?

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto laundry bleach. sodium hypochlorite

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto THANK YOU!!! Now the next question. Are these files available in Traditional Chinese? I live in Taiwan and will be sourcing all materials here so I'm worried google translate may not give me the perfect translation. Are these plans available in Traditional Chinese (not the one spoken on mainland china)?

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto The download from that site appears to be version 1? I am looking for the plans for this one:

9:28 AM

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto the plans i downloaded are for this:

9:28 AM

We need a sheet press that can make 1m2 sheets!

9:29 AM

Anyone have the plans for that first image?

@tykapps Try this https://cutt.ly/starterkit-sheetpress You need the sheet press, not the compression machine

Hello guys I wanted to ask a question about the injection machine, I would like to install a cylinder to do the force, in the forums I was seeing that someone made that improvement, someone would have some scheme. I'm sorry for my English

Has anyone used a belt drive to power their shredder? If so what wattage motor and what are the positives/ negatives

@e1ise.v we use belt and pulley for the first reduction and sprocket and chain to the second speed reduction. using 2hp motor we found that the second reduction had so much torque it required a chain and sprocket. we are at present running around 170rpm. we had gone as high as 200 rpm but found that it was not melting the plastic enough. slightly too fast

@Butte (PP Philippines) you mentioned melting plastic, are you talking about an extruder or shredder?

Hi all, I'm a bit confused with the sheet press mould

10:55 AM

is it just a space with a metal sheet on the top and bottom or is there a part i'm missing where the pressure from the jacks are pushing down on the melted plastic? I watched the video on youtube and it seems like its a small metal frame with the sheets on the top and bottom?

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio @Butte (PP Philippines) This is too much work

What’s the best solution for the thin labels? Does someone know if it’s always the same type of plastic or if it’s always the same type as the part? Does someone melt it together? Happy melting! ✌️ (edited)

A kitchen steel scourer does help, but still quite some work

caustic soda is used in large factories to remove labels and other non plastic bits

11:20 AM

though the waste is not the nest

11:20 AM

best*\

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio Hey, PP Headquarter team, where are you based?

@sonik we are currently based near Nantes, France!

Hey Everyone! Does anyone know where I can find the blueprints or CAD files for this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j85TPjYRezI

davehakkens

Precious Plastic - 3D printer Filament maker

tolerances of the filament is key

7:15 AM

if it varies in diameter, the extruded volume / mm of length varies, and thus it can over/under extrude randomly

7:15 AM

For a more "proper" setup, that is OS, and in dev, see OSE's work on the "Lyman Extruder" (took his work and are a generation or so post that)

7:15 AM

https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/Lyman_Filament_Extruder

Lyman Filament Extruder

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio and why Headquarter?

Guys they are calling the current sensor + full bridge rectifier part of the shredder pro names in IRC ##electronics

10:41 AM

I dont get it either

Why we need a full bridge rectifier on the output of the alltime positive sensor?

@Eric Lotze Thank you so much for the information!!

hi

hello @arturo, what brought you here?

Hello, @Isometric thank you very much for your attention, I am dabbling in the recycling issue, I am currently trying to start a small business in my city on the products that I have seen on the internet page but I am a little overwhelmed with everything, especially on the subject of manufacture of machinery and I wanted to know if you can help me how I can organize myself better, I am from Guayaquil, Ecuador

@arturo no worries man, the machines can be overwhelming to start with. To try and simplify the issue, here are my thoughts. The first machine you should build is the shredder, assuming there isn't anyone shredding locally. The shredder creates the granulated plastic that can be used with the rest of the machines. After that, depending on what products you are intending to make, you should look into the other precious plastics machines. Regarding the construction of the machines, it's not an easy thing for a total beginner to metalworking to create. Try asking around for someone who owns a workshop, friends, family, and you can find someone who can assist you in the machines you want to create.

@alistar : you can also use standard current sensors, lots safer, robust and easier to integrate : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000187130903.html | you only need to adjust the code a little for that. They also go by the name 'GRI8-03' or 'GRI8-01'. This works also charming with VFD driven v3 shredders

(edited)

US $15.64 32% OFF|GEYA GRI8 03 Over Current or Under Current Adjust...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

Hi all. I need some advice on a motor. Is anyone here willing to help? It’s basically a yes or no. Thanks in advance

@Liamsihi I can help you, what's the problem?

@Isometric Thank you. I’m a bit stuck on what motor to get. I think I have one but don’t want to risk buying it without being sure. I have a screenshot of said motor

What thickness of stainless steel sheets are the ones used for the sheet press mould?

11:34 AM

Would the 150rpm be suitable?

@Liamsihi 150rpm is slightly on the fast side for the shredder in my opinion. Ideally you'd want an output speed of 25-30rpm, but the original shredder ran at 70rpm. I see there's more options to select, what's the lowest speed they have? (edited)

interesting, 1:25 is just perfect for v3 | slower will result in more jamming

Looks like a good motor/gearbox and offer, right on !

11:53 AM

there is a sweet spot somewhere between 60 - 80 RPM, for most plastics, incl. tough PET bottle heads and bottoms.

@wonkert I didn't know about that jamming issue, thanks for the heads up!

@Isometric apologies I should have stated this is for the extrusion machine. Sorry

@Liamsihi v3 or v4 ? And, you have 3 phase, and/or 220V ? And if v3, compression screw or wood auger ? (edited)

@Liamsihi No worries haha, I have shredders on the brain right now. Basic extrusion says 70rpm, Pro extrusion asks for 250rpm.

1

V4- three phase. Would loosing ~100 rpm be detrimental to the process? Best off continue searching?

slower speeds result usually in better quality as I've seen, if you manage 150 200 RPMs you might be on the safe side, depends on what (quantity or quality) and how (heated molds or not) you're trying to make it.

Appreciate the advice. Molds would more than likely be cold and I’m going for quality so would be in my favour

Right, then I'd go for a 1:10 reduction since the VFD gives you some playroom of around 50% speed variation . Eventually you can instruct the builder to make the barrel a little longer in order to have even more head room for different screw tips (3- 8cm long) which have also good impacts on mixing/melting.

@wonkert Thank you

Hello I'm new here

4:19 PM

I'm building a shredder machine for my project, and I need help

4:19 PM

What type of motor is needed to get an output speed of about 24rpm and a higher torque

@obeng boampong It's not so much the motor, but the gearbox.

5:34 AM

What I mean is, you won't find a motor that can do 24rpm, you need to find a motor, connected to a gearbox with an output of 24rpm. In my case I have a 3hp 3 phase motor with a gearbox with a ratio of 15:1 which gives me about 98rpm. The ratio reduces the speed by 15 times and multiplies the torque by the same amount.

5:36 AM

24rpm is very slow for a shredder. If you also want to granulate the plastic into small flakes, it'll take a very long time.

Any one doing anything with Raspbery Pi and automation and saving profiles on extruder or other machines

@Kiwi Yeah, early and not our biggest focus currently, but yes indeed.

@wonkert I see this is your alt account Guenter. As a banned user, you are not allowed to use the Discord platform or forums.

1

Message from G:

@Timberstar It will not be for the best if you only participate to undermine the mods or admins here. Guenter has been banned for repeated abuses and it will do you no benefit to support him.

1

I suspect I'll be getting another couple threat-laced messages from another of his alt-accounts now.

1

11:19 PM

@Timberstar I'm sorry to hear that. I hope your projects go well. (edited)

Here is the link to the PlasticHub github: https://github.com/plastic-hub/lydia-print-head (edited)

plastic-hub/lydia-print-head

Lydia-v4 as printhead. Contribute to plastic-hub/lydia-print-head development by creating an account on GitHub.

12:59 AM

Most of the resources on there are incomplete, but at least shows some good ideas.

1

Hey everyone, we are about to open a workshop and buy a shredding machine for that purpose. Since we don't have quite the recourses and budget yet to build a shredder by ourself, we were looking into used commercial machines. Can you please have a look if our choice would work fine for shredding plastic? https://www.ebay.de/itm/Getecha-GRS-182-A-1-38-Granulator-Beistellmuhle-Schneidmuhle-40-106/324191772811?hash=item4b7b55e08b:g:~e8AAOSwFxpe3iCh I think it is well suited. The sieves can be changed and the specs should be sufficient too. It might be louder than the PP shredder but this isn't a big issue for us at the moment. I am happy to hear your thoughts

Getecha GRS 182 -A 1.38 Granulator Beistellmühle Schneidmühle 40/1...

Finden Sie Top-Angebote für Getecha GRS 182 -A 1.38 Granulator Beistellmühle Schneidmühle 40/106 bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!

Reaching out to see if anyone knows of a recycled plastic/rubber that might work for an injection moulded welly boot?

Hello people!

So, a couple of years ago i bought this electronic box from a shop in Chile while I was building my extrusion machine. Now remembering that, i was actually wondering if you could buy these kind of boxes online, already with everything installed: PID, SSR, Heatsink, Switch etc. Basically you just need to connect you heating elements to the box and it's ready to use. I really dont know if the guy that sold it to me made it himself or if its a proper one that's maybe even certified... (edited)

What’s the largest beam (girth, not length) you’d be able to make?

hey! i'm based in texas and i've been considering making shelving units out of the plastic sheets. does anyone happen to know if they would work well with a cnc router? would it cut clean or will some pieces flake off? i plan on having precise measurements so this is important to know for me. please @ me to respond. thanks!

hi guys, I'm from Indonesia. just just wanna know. Whats the different between Shredder V1,V2 and V3. I've made one, but not sure which version categories is it.

6:00 AM

well, here's the picture...

hey! i'm based in texas and i've been considering making shelving units out of the plastic sheets. does anyone happen to know if they would work well with a cnc router? would it cut clean or will some pieces flake off? i plan on having precise measurements so this is important to know for me. please @ me to respond. thanks!

@hornitixx my sheets cut fine on the CNC. just make sure that your plastic is dry first or you get bubbles

Hello everyone, what should be the size of the shredder 2.1

@erga The shredderbox looks like the shredder 2.1. Have a look here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21 @Сибирячок (edited)

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Yes, I guess so @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto , . Also I found this unofficial preciousplastic website, they summarize whats happen in forum , I got a lot of information there https://precious-plastic.org/shredder-fixes-updates/

PlasticHub

Shredder fixes & updates - Precious Plastic Library - Unofficial

precious plastic machines tutorials shredder extrusion injection bazar wiki filament mold molding

спасибо

@Jonas S try to find a slow speed granulator like the GSL shredder from Zerma etc. Your model runs very fast and is more suited for very small plastic parts (up to bottlecap size) and is more suited for granulating (reduce flake sizes) then for shredding of parts. The price is okay - you find machines sub 1k€ too if you can wait some weeks

@Carolina There are manufacturers who offer "turn-key" (ready to use) solutions also with partial certificates -> does not make your machine CE automatically! - due its only one part of it. But can reduce certification costs in small series. Just you wont like their prices. Should start from 500€ around for 100€ in parts I guess. https://www.tempco.com/Tempco.htm https://ebrewsupply.com/collections/turn-key-setups/pid-controlled (edited)

@Fritz @easymoulds Hey vielen Dank für deinen Hinweis! Dann werde ich mich nochmal umschauen, ob ich was von Zerma finde. Lg!

Where is there downloadable cad models for all the different machines that have been made?

Here is a first. We snapped the shafting on our extrusion machine... we use a 12mm deep well impact wrench socket to attach the v3 compression screw to the machine. to adapt the thing we used a impact wrench socket extension that is turned on the lathe and fit in the shafting

5:35 AM

so here is the rebuild fresh from the machine shop.

5:36 AM

1

and this was the broken part.

outch :(

it is okay. less than 10 USD in damages and we lost about a day of production.

@Butte (PP Philippines) in german we call that "Sollbruchstelle" (intended breaking point).

1

Hello guys, i'm Seb and i'm looking to download the sheetpress and get the draftings.... On the partcloud.net I have only the visualization. Can you help me ?

Hey @sberube!

Download the complete V4-Kit or just the sheetpress-workspace-download. https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

It lives

just the electrics to install!

2

4

Hello, has anyone ever tried an injection mechanism like this where the plunger is attached to a threaded bolt, which can be twisted with a socket wrench to convert to up/down motion? You'd need a sturdy frame to hold the contained nut in place but it would give good travel of the plunger, making it easy to insert plastic. Would this be able to apply enough pressure compared to the traditional lever design?

@j_hen This would be to slow. For my injection the speed is very important for the quality of the part. Maybe with a gear transmission or an electric motor... But maybe there are more experience from others?

1

Does anyone who builded the sheetpress tried to implent a fuse box in case of a short circuit. And do you have any advice which fuses to use? See attached this is how I did the wiring.

Sheetpress_electric_Circuit_Diagram_v4.1.pdf

603.54 KB

Does anyone have a cad model for the V2 Shredder and Injection moulding machine, or have a design where the frame is completely bolted together to allow easy transport?

@j_hen from what i've seen speed is a lot more important to the injection process, especially at the start. the idea is to get the hot plastic inside the mold as fast as possible to prevent half molded parts. however pressure does become important towards end of the injection cycle, becuase the more pressure you can put on the semi molten plastic inside the mold, the more detail the plastic will take on.

@Isometric @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto that all makes complete sense, you want to avoid premature solidification so speed is vital. How about if a hand drill was attached? Many people seem to customise drill press stands to accomodate the barrel and plunger.... Or would it harm the drill due to the stresses occurring when the plunger has reached the bottom?

@j_hen again, check the arbor press. I have one, it works very well. Regarding speed it depends how you work with your moulds (cold or hot)

well built drill presses can definitely take the load, but i've got doubt about the cheapo one i've got. arbour presses are great if you can get your hands on one.

Could anyone help me find the blades for the shredder in Czech

You could find someone who sells whole shredders in the Czech and ask if they can sell just the blades?

@kikins (wishingrocket20)

@kikins (wishingrocket20) Look here for Czech Republic

: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/

Machines :: Shredder

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland great info thanks. The problem I have with the Arbor style, is the difficulty and expense of acquiring a rack and pinion system? Is there any good affordable sources for those in the UK?

Can anyone recommend a commercially available plunger/ barrel for desktop injection molding? Every guide I can find calls for using a lathe, which I do not have.

can you tell me if procious plastic is just an academy or an enterprice that sells machines?

@euge You con buy complete startekits from the preciousplastic-Team. You can buy machines & products from the community. Check out the https://bazar.preciousplastic.com (edited)

Precious Plastic Bazar

Plastice to sell products, machines, and plastic. Empowering our recycling ecosystem around the world.

2 questions. What about machine maintenance? Has anyone experience using aluminum ( from beer/soda cans or sardine/tuna cans or trashed aluminum paper ) for making molds? Aluminum melts at around 600 Celsius. any thoughts around that?

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland great info thanks. The problem I have with the Arbor style, is the difficulty and expense of acquiring a rack and pinion system? Is there any good affordable sources for those in the UK?

@jj_hen#8065 What do you call expensive?

@arthuraloha I haven't personally, but i think machining aluminium "plate molds" sheet by sheet on a desktop cnc such as the "indymill" SHOULD work, and would allow for way more complex and effective molds

9:41 PM

most others for now are greedsand casting/plaster etc based i think?

@Eric Lotze desktop cnc's in that category ($1-2k) can machine excellent aluminum molds. Obviously with more conservative machining time, but when you keep the limitations in mind and run finishing passes on everything it can come out almost mirror finish. Here's one I did on a openbuilds style cnc.

5:32 AM

and the final result

2

Hi @Eric Lotze I saw the machine you posted on the #deleted-channel looks cool but my question about aluminum is if anybody experienced melting aluminum cans ( aluminum casting ) to turn it into molds, bricks, cylinders, etc . If I can produce the frames of the machines out of garbage aluminum cans or tuna cans would be amazing. I guess im doing the scratch of the scratch L0L I know this maybe off topic from the entire Precious Plastic community but im not looking only into plastic but all elements I see everywhere on the nature. Metal and Glass are also materials I can find when I go walking with my dog. in my business point of view it is just free materials.

9:06 AM

@Isometric cool job brow. do you do the design yourself?

I do yeah, fusion 360 is my weapon of choice

@arthuraloha I would recommend you instead of aluminium cans to purchase scrap aluminium from a local scrapyard. Aluminium cans are made from very low quality alloys - you will get a lot of "waste" within the melting process. It will be easier to melt in scrap parts - if you get a bit used to different aluminium types you will also be able to pick the right quality and hardness of material ;) At my last scrapyard I paid 1/3 of the virgin material price.

@Fritz @easymoulds Maybe I go deep describing what I'm doing. Most people think about the already existing trash as a source for material. I look at my on trash. Actually its never trash. I star my process at: 1- The Supermarket My eating habits must be healthy and I eat around 1kg of food per day and I also have a dog to feed ). I choose carefully looking at the packaging design. I created a friendliness-package-rating. Good packaging is the one that fits into each other so can be better accumulated and can also be used for creating modular frames. 2- My kitchen When I open a thing I bought, I clean and put it on its pile. I consume around 50-70 products that I try to buy the same every-time 3-Workshop Packaging that has more than 1 type of material gets separated and each goes to its pile. Sorting colors are never a problem as categorizing by product type already does the job. So, back on the topic, Tuna can Sardine cans, corn cans, sliced fruit can, beer cans, tomato sauce cans and other 5 or 6 types get accumulated in my kitchen. I calculate around 5 to 5 of each can is consumed per month. Its the PRECIOUS PART of my "waste" and probably yours too. I recon 60% to 80% of my money used to go to the garbage in form of packaging. I base this calculation on the price I pay for each product and how heavy it is before open and how heavy it becomes after its cleaned. Hopefully this can create curiosity ain some of yours minds. (edited)

Sounds impressive! It all depends if your research is more into making parts or more on the process - if you have the time exploring it its totally valid ofc

actually time is the only thing I have. LoL Im taking full advantage of this Covid times and research and experience. We'll see how it goes. I used to own a hostel and the garbage there is identical as my here jus 40 times more. That's enough of material to squeeze at least some 3% to 5% of a hostel income out of its own garbage I recon. SO, my idea here is to prototype a recycling plant to be operating from inside ta hostel. generating enough material to be turned into small pieces for the maintenance part of the hostel (make things that always brake and when they break they go back to the cycle) or even some decorative. instead of cleaning you shred it hehehehe

In-house recycling, that's a cool idea

11:15 AM

11:16 AM

this was 200 days of all I bought on the supermarket plus some items I would collect every time I was taking my dog for a walk

11:17 AM

There was also the "wet" residual but was for the garden

I'm building the Shredder 2.1. For the hexagon bar, it says 27M x 32cm. Is 27M the diameter?

11:36 AM

And is it worth it getting it in stainless steel?

@arthuraloha just be careful that cans are lined with plastics and tins are made of steel

What do you mean by "lined with" @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I only used the cans as a container to separate each type of plastic. I only star using the big bottles when I reached a good amount of the specific type. in a larger scale operation I would have enough of each kind to confine it into the big bottles. Then the Aluminum and tin would have their on piles. I run a good portion of this project over the quarantine (october-2019 to May 2020) and it was a warm up what I will do in the new house. Also to have an idea of quantity and weight. I haven't done the calculation yet but Im thinking around 100 km (considering there was 30kg organic, what you see in the picture would be around 70kg. (aprox 300 to 400 grams per day )

I mean lined with, there is a layer of plastic in the inside of aluminium cans.

True. Doing what I did was a little crazy if you are trying to be a "normal" person these days but it allowed me to get into manufacturing details for each package. I dont know if all cans have this film of plastic and what is the type but I was thinking to reuse them instead of melting ( initially ). maybe shredding and and compress it into another form. Ive been studding a bed frame where the corners are made from recycle (plastic or metal ) and the side would be from bamboo which would only connect into the corners. There's always more than 1 solution for each problem. understanding the source is un essential 1st step into recycling in my opinion . I see a lot of new users just concerned about Shredders as a starting point. I would be happy to help introduce a Step-Zero into the process. I see this as a fight with 2 battle fields. 1 is the existing garbage and what to do with it 2 is the garbage that are still inside our fridges and shelfs at home and on supermarket. we dont need to go to a landfill to learn about plastic. we can star on our kitchen understanding the packages we open everyday.

I'm building the Shredder 2.1. For the hexagon bar, it says 27M x 32cm. Is 27M the diameter?

@tomvb 27mm is the Dimension of the hexagon (from surface to surface). If you don’t use the shredder outside (+in rain) or salty area you don’t need stainless steel. Better more strong steel than S235JR,... The shaft gets a lot torque.

2

Thanks @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto!

2:20 PM

The type of steel is 9SMn28K

HELOOO, my shredder coupling broke!! where can i buy one?? xD

@Tiago-recycle lab. Portugal I like https://www.maedler.de/product/1643/kupplungen-rutschkupplungen-sicherheits-kupplungen-verbindungswellen They have also a configuration tool.

Couplings, Friction Clutches, Safety Couplings | MÄDLER Webshop

MÄDLER GmbH Stuttgart Düsseldorf Hamburg Produzent technischer Großhandel Verzahnungselemente Normteile Getriebe Produktpalette 26.500 Artikel in bester Qualität. Hohe Verfügbarkeit, schnelle Lieferung. Preise, Bestandsanzeige, viele technische Informationen.

1

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto thankd!!! Mine was made out of cast iron.. what would you recomend?

9:00 PM

9:01 PM

This is the shredder just for reference

Mine (from Mädler) is also out of cast iron. I would recommend to look at the torque parameters (coupling-Nm > Gearbox-motor-Nm)

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto thankd!!!!!!!

If I built the frame for the Shredder and Injector from aluminium instead of steel, do you think it would break under normal use? (This if for the V2 Machines by the way) (edited)

How thick do the teeth need to be for pro shredder

@Reactive_Gold You like to use aluminium profiles? For the shredder frame it would be ok, maybe just bigger profiles. For the injection I would recommend steel for the lever, or also more bigger profiles, but I would calculate that. https://beamguru.com/online/beam-calculator/

Hi all, I am in the process of starting a small shredder/extruder operation and am trying to think out the best way to save money and not skimp on the motor. I would like to use the same motor for both the extruder and the shredder and move it back in forth depending on which machine I am using and use the VFD to adjust the speed based on the need of each machine. I have seen examples of the shredder/extruder combo but for a few reasons I am hoping to keep the machines independent from each other. Is there any reason I cant move the motor back and forth? I haven't seen anyone else suggest this so I am wondering if there is somthing I am missing. Thanks for the help and good luck to all of you with your amazing projects.

That's fine, no problems with that.

HELOOO, my shredder coupling broke!! where can i buy one?? xD

@Tiago-recycle lab. Portugal Hi. If you would have mechanical drawing for the coupling, we can make you a new one. We have access to lathe and mill. Let me know

(edited)

Can anyone clarify what kind of welder to use? MIG vs TIG vs Stick? Looking into renting one to assmble my shredder frame. Thank you.

@itsgeorge MIG is the fastest to learn, what are you making the shredder frame out of?

@elementalAndrew square steel tubing

@itsgeorge definitely MIG. TIG is slow and complicated and stick can be tricky too, without experience.

1

@magi SVK awesome thanks!

Hello, in the extruder machine (not the pro) the inner diameter of the barrel is 26mm. What drill diameter is put in here? and what is the length of the drill? I don't find this directly in descriptions? Thank you in advance for your responses regards The Bartjes

Hi everyone, Do you have any tips on how to build the tip of the injection machine. the conection of the pipe with the mould. finding it difficult to find/build a part to conect the pipe to a much smaller diameter to fit the mould Thanks

Hi, did anyone downloaded the whole kit from academy? I did few days ago, but can't find blueprints for extruder v1 screw and don't know if it's missing in file or just download wasn't complete.

Hello. Does anybody knows where are the solidworks files, for the inyection mould of the iphone case? I have downloaded the precious plastic kit master, but i have not found it. In wich folder is it? Thanks to everyone in advance. Regards.

https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/598888879126478849/681549014004662440 https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/598888879126478849/681535872176226353 https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/599259846767935519/663174085236359208 https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/599259846767935519/628591600116826132 @Nicolas Argentino

2

1

Hi everyone, Do you have any tips on how to build the tip of the injection machine. the conection of the pipe with the mould. finding it difficult to find/build a part to conect the pipe to a much smaller diameter to fit the mould Thanks

@Toni Mozzarella hi, on our injection machine, we firstly started with thread connection - outter tread at the end of injection, and we welded M20 nut on our moulds. After time, we found out more effective solution. With lathe we made pipe on our inj. machine, and fot our new moulds we drilled conus shade holes. so you just connect your machine and mould with a car jack connected to the machine.

Hi Magi. I just downloaded the whole kit. The blueprints for the extruder V1 screw are not there either.

@Gavin O @magi SVK I am not so informed about the extrusion machine, but I think you have to search for a screw. The v2 had a wood drill, right? For that I think just choose the right diameter... The wood drill is cheap, but you don’t have compression, maybe search the old forum where others got their screws...

Hey guys, it's possible to create the shredder box without a plasma cutter?

10:44 PM

(i mean, the gears that shred the plastics)

Hi peter. Thanks. Makes sense. The compression screw has far better reviews /results.

Hey what mask do y'all recommend to wear working with plastic

Embarking on building the shredder pro. Trying to get all the materials straight. Live in the states and found a reasonably priced hexbar but its made out of: C1018 1215, 12L14 steel or 4140 Cold Finish. 1. Are these metals strong enough for the shafts? 2. Any other good sources for hex bar in the US? I am in Pennsylvania. (edited)

Hi all, anyone had issues with Robotdigg extruder sizing? I received the extruder screw and just had the extruder barrel shaft made. The opening for the barrel shaft is 13mm yet the screw seems to be 20mm. Obviously things don't fit though the robotdigg website says they make PP screws but clearly they or I have messed something up...

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto i know about the drill, but because od efficiency I'd like the compression screw. I forgot that I've downloaded PP master-kit two years ago, there was also blueprint for the screw. My question is, if someone could add it to actual kit, so people can have it as well. @Gavin O i can send it to you, if you haven't find it somewhere.

@magi SVK You are right. I also just found it in the old kit. Maybe ask in #deleted-channel to add it...

Extrusion_screw.zip

2.38 MB

1

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto will do

Hi all, anyone had issues with Robotdigg extruder sizing? I received the extruder screw and just had the extruder barrel shaft made. The opening for the barrel shaft is 13mm yet the screw seems to be 20mm. Obviously things don't fit though the robotdigg website says they make PP screws but clearly they or I have messed something up...

@0502 20 mm seems small actually, I thought the PP "standard" was 26 to 30? 13 mm is clearly undersized for the PP extrusion

10:06 AM

The dimensions are pretty clear here https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine

Precious Plastic design single screw and barrel for extrusion machi...

Plastic recycling extrusion or injection Precious Plastic advocates plastic recycling. Precious Plastic created machines...

Thanks Peter and Magi. The zip file works well.

3:03 PM

PlasticAtBay - The extrusion screw pro diameter is 18mm. The extrusion screw V1 diameter is 25.7mm, from what I can see.

Robotdigg screws are V4 and they are 26 diameters, was there confusion with radius? My V3 is 26 too as far as I remember

hi guys i've not found blueprints of Shredder Machine on a website can you help me pls???

1

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-blueprints-in-freecad

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Robotdigg screws are V4 and they are 26 diameters, was there confusion with radius? My V3 is 26 too as far as I remember

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I believe the v4 is 30mm D

You have to download the entire part you want to do... Then the plans are in there.

does anyone have the zip file for the whole first version extruder, i can only find the V4 on the website thanks

I remember someone was making moulds with 3d printed parts... does anyone remember where?

@Deleted User https://www.instagram.com/p/B8HLnquIVcF/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

easymoulds

To test your recycled plastic product design 3D printed moulds can be the fastest option to avoid product failure. We offering now aluminum frames for 3d printed injection moulds - link in bio! #preciousplastic #makermovement #industrialdesign #injectionmolding #3dprintedmold...

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto pretty neat idea, but thats only a frame to support 3d printed moulds

But don´t you always need the frame/support? Only 3D-printed is to weak i think?

there was one without I believe

4:50 PM

may be resin

@Deleted User This one? : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-silicone-mould-for-soft-plastics

nope haha

4:52 PM

if I find it il tag you the link

Robotdigg screws are V4 and they are 26 diameters, was there confusion with radius? My V3 is 26 too as far as I remember

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland I must of done something wrong as I thought the image showed was for the v2 as those are the files I got thr pieces made to...ive taken the parts back to the fab shop and they making it fit

Hello! I am getting equipment lists together to build my own sheet press and I was wondering what documentation was needed to send to a laser cutter? Are the CAD files sufficient or do they need something else too?

I have found a lower cost source for gear motors. Look for 220v electric hoists. they come wired, direction control, a gearbox and emergency stop button.

@Butte (PP Philippines) Awesome! Any idea on rpms?

hello! did anyone here try building a plastic bottle shredder with washing before?

need some advice for my university design project!

Are there any options for granulating thin plastic films yet? (edited)

@Butte (PP Philippines) These motors are often not done for running 60 minutes an hour. The cheapest solution i found are these "silent garden shredders":

3:30 PM

motor is 2800W single phase, 42 rpm, comes with all elements also. Mine is running more than one year. I got it second hand for 20 euros.

(I wondered why you looked specifically into "silent" ones, and I found a normal one rated at... 112dB...oh well.)

@Ley Klussyn the normal ones don't have a gearbox, it is important that the motor has the square faceplate with the round thing in the middle

3:47 PM

Any other garden shredder will not work! (edited)

Oh yes! Thanks for the precision :) But the "not silent" ones look hella loud anyway soo there out of consideration in any case.

Well, this one is still not very "silent", but its bearable.

Hello, will a 30 amp 3-phase plug work for the sheet press? I am in the USA and 32A is not a standard rating here.

Need a little help qith the building files here. Does anyone have the pdf files?

1:42 AM

Anybody from Brazil? Rio?

@Butte (PP Philippines) These motors are often not done for running 60 minutes an hour. The cheapest solution i found are these "silent garden shredders":

@sonik true... unless you add in a cooling fan on the motor. Have some aluminum core motors running all day with a additional industrial fan mounted on it

this is the motor and gearbox with the switch that I ordered.

@sonik true... unless you add in a cooling fan on the motor. Have some aluminum core motors running all day with a additional industrial fan mounted on it

@Butte (PP Philippines) could you show how?

@PSPlastic 30 amp will be fine at the correct voltage. Do you know what voltage you get between each phase and neutral in the USA?

@michael_makes_ Looks like it's 240v

Anybody worked with silicone molds before while injecting? We find them to be a cheap and good alternative to metal molds. We made some and rigged them to attach to our injector like this:

5:30 AM

5:32 AM

3

@PSPlastic Perfect, that'll work fine with the current design

@michael_makes_ Thanks you!

Hi, i have some prototype for tile mold, that will be used in owen. What do you think? Will it work? The tiles should be 30x30cm and ideally we would be able to make two or more at once.

7:25 PM

7:26 PM

These renders show the mold when it is pressed and finished

7:27 PM

It is basicly just sheet metal cut outs stack on top of each other

Press is coming together well. Currently organising sheet moulds. Any issues with aluminium for both the mould frame and top/bottom sheets (2mm)

8

I put this in here but it could also go in #archived-plastic. With @Guillaume Pic-Rivière we have been working on a numerical simulation tool to understand what is going on in the machines we use. I also did it to help people visualise the problem of thermal conductivity, inertia etc. The code is not finished and far from optimised but it works. If there are specific things you want to test, you can ask and I will implement them. Until we have a stable version it will be like that. Then we will try to push it in the github but I am not too sure there is actually room for this kind of tool. So here is the case study of the sheet press because it is very popular these days. I have read some strange remarks on it and I was curious to see how it works "inside". This simulation takes a mould in aluminium surrounding the plastic to melt which is supposedly HDPE in flakes with 50% porosity (connected). The heat is coming from outside at the temperature set by the PID. Meaning that it would like if you put the sensor on the cartridge block. The cartridges are distributed in the style of the blueprint (not precisely). The insulation is perfect. Here a run with a 1cm mould at 220deg C

4:18 PM

total fusion is achieved around 2700 sec

4:20 PM

Then I thought that it would be interesting to see if the mould is thicker on the sides and I added 10 cm of aluminium

4:20 PM

The total fusion is now c.1200 sec.

4:21 PM

I thought this would be interesting for people having the press to enhance the thermal conductivity between the top and bottom plates by adding a thick bar of aluminium before pressing.

4:22 PM

Then I looked into ranges of temperatures I prefer to work with as HDPE at 200+ degrees release a lot of fumes. So I did the same test with a cartridge temperature of 170 deg C

4:23 PM

Total fusion happens after 2000 sec

4:23 PM

This shows that the thermal conductivity/insulation is critical compared to the temperature. It would be interesting to get some workspaces to look into this

4:24 PM

And it would overall help having less fumes

4:26 PM

We are hoping also to be able to estimate the consumption and true regime of the heating elements, depending of the placement of the heat probe

1

My friend and I have reached the end of our limited engineering skills. We need help to connect these parts together. Or maybe other parts are required. We thought about using the existing 5" pulley wheel but our calculations resulted in us requiring a wheel 70" (5" x14) diameter on the shredder which is just impractical. So we've ditched that idea and are trying to connect them in series as in the photo. The motor and gearbox were donated from different sources. The gearbox has a matching motor but it's 3-phase so cannot be used. Someone had suggested "taper locks". I researched them yesterday and it looks like an interesting concept.

11:34 PM

Hello, Any idea on "horse power" for the engine on the shredder pro??

12:17 AM

if there is a minimum??

almost there

@pepe_trueno 3-5HP is the quoted PP specification for Pro shredder (edited)

@pepe_trueno 3-5HP is the quoted PP specification for Pro shredder

@CitSciWorkshop thanks!

Happy to help!

@Jonas S I have pretty much the exact machine and it works even better than my PP shredder. It will be noisy though. Mine is about 50 years old and still going!

@d-Wizz (PP Taringa) For the connection from gearbox to shredder box you can use a taper coupling. (edited)

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland This is great, love that you put this together! Couple of questions - 1) have you assumed 50% porosity to simulate the fact that shredded plastic is a mixture of air and plastic initially? And if so, does the porosity somehow decrease with time? How have you modelled that? 2) interested to know more about how you modelled it - from the figures, it looks like you set up a 2D heat simulation in space and then ran a 1D simulation through time at a single point? Did you take the boundary conditions as constant based on the results of the first study, or are these simulations parametric? 3) I’m a bit confused on the inclusion of ‘fumes’ in this model. How are fumes modelled and what factors did you consider in quantifying them? I’m far from a chemistry expert (so my understanding on the release of fumes is limited), but I didn’t expect fumes to have such a bearing on the heat transfer of this particular system. Would be interested to know more! A little note on the heat probe: we placed it roughly 0.25d away from a cartridge heater (taking d as the distance between each cartridge heater). The thinking here was to place it about halfway between the minimum and maximum temperatures on the plate - assuming 0d is the maximum temperature and 0.5d is about the minimum. The hope was to get the plate to settle on the correct temperature in the fastest possible amount of time (critically damped if you like). However we didn’t model this at all, just used logic and crossed our fingers, so it would be interesting to confirm this with some kind of model. (edited)

@michael_makes_ No worries, I think that such tool was needed 1) I assume porosity because that's how the mix is. Actually true porosity of my granulated plastic is about 60% but since the connectivity of the pores would need to be ascertain and is probably non-perfect, I cut it in half. There are charts for this kind of stuff on porous media. The mix is pure at the moment, thermal properties are shared 50-50 between plastic and air. It is common practice until you really have to go into details. From the moment you loose the porosity, plastic insulate the non-melted mix and increases the overall time, we have tested that. It is obvious. Meaning that you should not press before you are sure the plastic is melted. Also I had discussions about mixing the plastic continuously in the press to let the heat flow. (edited)

2) the model is 2D, it could become 3D, it is easy but unnecessary. It is not optimised at all so it sucks a lot of RAM as I monitor the whole numerical experiment. The model works with small scale perturbations that drive the temperature variations according to the material properties. So you need very small time-steps, c. 1-4 ms for it to converge. The borders are for now with perfect isolation, there is no heat loss on the edges. I have already made another version with heat loss for one of our internal project. Guillaume is working on the generalisation of it, including realistic rock wool insulations and the sort. Because of the simplicity of the model you can actually use empirical data to hardcode the heat loss of your press through time. 3) fume volumes can be computed based on charts of temperature/VS fumes related to different kind of plastics. You just have to code the rates of degassing VS timesteps/temperature in the model and mass of plastic involved.

11:44 AM

@michael_makes_ I understand your logic for the heat probe. I did the same in other setting. However, you cannot really control the overall temperature if you don't know the temperature of your block. I would assume that the temperature difference is small anyway, from what I can tell on the models. My issue is that locally the temperature is higher than what you want and the highest the temperature, the more damage you do to polymers until they are not recyclable conventionally at all.

11:45 AM

Finally, I would be very interested to see if you could add metal bars framing around your plastic, without pressing it. In theory you will gain up to 50% melting time if there is a good heat conductivity between the upper and the lower plate with a max of porosity

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland 1) Wow, that’s interesting that you’ve found that an air-plastic mixture conducts heat better than pure plastic. We tended to observe the opposite - however the testing was not overly rigorous. Melting a sheet via a convection oven (no pressure) took us around 2 hours. As soon as we started applying pressure and heat together, we got the same thickness sheet of HDPE to fuse within under 30 minutes! And we saw vast improvements when we added the spring - that ensures pressure is maintained as the plastic melts and the air leaves the mixture. Is that not the principle behind the compression screw? Heat and pressure leads to better heat transfer? Maybe we understood the physics less than we thought, but that’s what gave us the best (and fastest) results. 2&3) Sounds great, cool that you’re going into such depth with the analysis. Interested to see your findings. I’m not quite sure what you mean about the metal bars. Like a 1.2x1.2m frame around the plastic? Thickness, material? And what is the main purpose of this? Maybe you could give a rough sketch?

@michael_makes_ the thermal conductivity of plastic is extremely low compared to air. That's why you are better off shredding and starting from scratch than trying to melt something partially solidified as the heat won't flow. It is possible that when you press you induce motion in the mixture but I would think that if the air inside your mix can freely move from the heating areas to the core of your mix it will heat faster. In the numerical experiment above I just added 3cmx10cm of aluminium on the side of the mix and that dropped the melting time by 2.5

1

Good progress into pellet extruder for 3D printers https://youtu.be/3rC0a-YyEM0

Teaching Tech

3D printing shredded failed prints with a prototype pellet extruder

@bmbaron wow! Super interesting! This technique worth an "how to". Can you show more pictures of the process?

1

Hola cíomo están, alguien habla español, me interesa consultar por la fabricación de la maquina. grcias

10:11 PM

gracias

@Fabio M. https://www.facebook.com/drplasticVN/posts/189393572594787 This link has more pictures and the procedure. We used a 2 part rubber silicone that's availabe in Vietnam for about 8 USD for a kilogram. They sell it in a big container of white goopy stuff that you mix with a smaller container of yellow, wet stuff and it hardens about 10 minutes after mixing. And the PVC tube was used because it holds the silicone together tightly during injection. We have tried without PVC or a supporting container for other molds, and they also worked ok, but this one was bigger and needs to be perfectly spherical so we wanted to make sure it wouldn't warp. Our injection machine can't fill this mold in one shot, so we need to make an extruder someday to fill this mold. We tried injecting several times into the mold to fill it but the problem was getting layers between the shots and struggling to keep the plastic hot in the mold between shots.

@bmbaron

I just returned to precious plastic after a year or so away. Great to see that you've got v4 out now! I have a few questions regarding the sheet press 1. Why did you end up going the route of the hotplate vs the oven and sheet press? Is it faster/lower cost due to conduction vs convection/radiation? 2. The jack is only 8 tons, whereas the original sheet press used 4x 8 ton jacks. Were they found to be overkill? 3. Are the sheets perfectly flat/same thickness across? Or is there some warpage and perhaps thinner in the middle due to deflection? If so, how much? (edited)

Any suggestions on what I can get a motor from to build my shredder? Will an old air compressor motor work?

Any suggested size of wood auger for building extrusion machine?

Hi there, this is a real basic question. How do I tell if this motor and gearbox are a fit for each other? How do I know if the faces fit and input and output shafts are compatable? I think this combo should be fine for a shredder, but if I am wrong about that please let me know. Thank you all! http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/MARATHON-Y366.html. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MRV050-Worm-Gear-20-1-80C-Speed-Reducer-Motor-Equipment-1-14HP-Terrific-Value/222570924969?hash=item33d242cba9:g:F0cAAOSwGjtcagdd

Y366 MARATHON 1.5HP MOTOR 145THTR5329

Y366 MARATHON 1.5HP Three Phase microMax Inverter (Vector) Duty Motor is designed for direct replacement of PMDC or any other variable speed application where up to a 1000:1 constant torque speed range is required.

MRV050 Worm Gear 20:1 80C Speed Reducer Motor Equipment 1.14HP Terr...

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for MRV050 Worm Gear 20:1 80C Speed Reducer Motor Equipment 1.14HP Terrific Value at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

@matu do you know anything abou the motor? RPM, power, torque? Can you find out? @charliesb3 i would say they don't match. Shaft is 22mm diameter, input on gearbox is only 19mm. Motor is a little less powerful anyway.

Anyone has good experience with combining a shredder and extruder in one machine? Using the same motor? Or is this impossible due to the difference in rpm speed\

Can any help me the download kit for LED cut outs

@magi SVK no idea, just trying to find out where I can get one. What specs are good?

does anyone know where to get the motors for the machines??

@Felix Lachner ;) Junk yards or online marked places

what is the motor called??

would any of the machine shop @🤙v4-team be willing to brainstorm with me a bit about sizing considerations for the shredder machines?

@CitSciWorkshop what you want to know about shredders?

@Fritz @easymoulds I'm taking material and design considerations for bridge into industrial size capacity, using the Pro box as a framework. I'd like to make sure I'm taking in all of the details necessary to perform the transition.

I'm not sure I can follow you - what bridge? @CitSciWorkshop

I guess, bridge in terms of an effort to scale up the design and make a conceptual "bridge" to industrial processing levels.

The question is how much time and money you can spend on the development. I think it is a solid base to start out in specializing towards different plastic types that have to be processed. I think you could go one or two motor sizes bigger - maybe max. 7.5 kW and scale up everything else around it. Beyond that it would need diving more into different shredding principles for plastic. Also depends what production methods you still consider as acessible and open source. So the difficult thing on laser cutting e.g. is that its super accessible everywhere but not very precise - which does not help shearing operations much. Depends pretty much what your exact goal is - you have to set target prices, output rates, manufacturing methods ... Here in Europe there is such a big second hand market - especially for shredders of all sizes, I am not sure there would be a reasonable market for it.

We've got a spec that we are building toward. Laser cutting and blade grinding are in-house ops for us. I'm considering the material requirements for the axle, blade thickness, box plate wall thickness, gear tooth shape etc. Just would like to maybe put heads together and make sure my list is comprehensive. In US I'm not seeing a lot of good second hand and so disrupting the cost and size of large scale operations into one more size, like a "Pro XL" would be beneficial.

Just take care who is your user in the end - it usually needs 30kW+ machines to make shredding a full time business. On the other hand to supply yourself with material for your own operations - I use a 3kW shredder running some hours gives me enough material for the rest of the week. So the range of ~7,5-30kW is most likely inhose recycling for bigger production facilities I guess. Might be wrong on that, but make sure there is a demand which is economic reasonable.

1

That's good to know. I'm setting a benchmark at 10HP before there is a new design at hand rather than a Pro derivative.

what is the motor called??

@Felix Lachner ;) It's a motor with a gearbox/reduction sometimes called a gearmotor.

Hello everyone, Please I need sketch of shredder 2.0 components and measurement I want to fabricate it locally

Hi, i would like to know about inyection machine with other pressure sistem, like gear for example. Somebody has taken this challenge?

@chelbig Check out Ford-Barcelona: https://www.instagram.com/p/CBR9ePIohtP/?igshid=11etcjbfwnwqp (edited)

fosbarcelona

Les nostres ulleres estan fetes d'una manera molt especial. No és ni producció massiva ni artesania, es troba ben bé al mig. Ens agrada anomenar-ho mitjana producció. Utilitzem màquines accionades manualment que, combinades amb motlles curosament creats per funcionar amb aques...

Terrific! Thanks!!!

Hello everyone, I have connected the PID controller to band heaters, set the temperature, but they're like burning, does anyone face to this kind of issue?

good night i received the files thank you very much! I couldn't answer your email, I don't have the CAD, would you have the drawing with the measurements in PDF? My English is very bad, I'm using the translator

Hi everyone, my name is Carter, I am from Phoenix Arizona. I recently became interested in recycling plastics, and built my own filament extruder, I've tested shredding and extruding recycled plastics into 3D printer spools. I am struggling to maintain a consistent diameter/thickness of my filament. Does anyone have recommendations of how I could fix that?

Precious Plastic Philippines v3 shredder. Used a Fujima hoist motor that was 60rpm 2hp. I reduced the speed to 30rpm which according to the manufacturer would generate 500kg torque. We sell this locally for 1000USD all new parts.

@Butte (PP Philippines) I have the same shredder and motor, but I didn't need to run it through an extra reduction like that.

5:51 AM

is thaat your video on youtube?

6:32 AM

the teaching tech video?

6:34 AM

i found that the extra torque helped with the reduction, and since Im using chain couplers anyways...

6:35 AM

https://youtu.be/YuxOEbwsyak

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Philippines v3 Shredder

Nope, the Teaching Tech guy is much smarter than me, although I do have a better coupler though. (edited)

this is the coupler I generally use on a straight shaft. its 14usd plus machining locally.

nice finding @Butte (PP Philippines) !

@Leendert I haven't combined them but I use the same gear motor between thr two machines. I disconnect the shredder (4 bolts) and connect the extruder (4 bolts). While it takes about 5mins to do it's worth the saving when starting up unless you have enough volume to run both at the same time

With the motor you and I have, it has a... I think 18mm hex shaft, so I have a 18mm deep socket, on it, free floating and I welded a 1/2 inch socket onto the shredder, I connect them with a 1/2 inch drive square, the height of the motor shaft and shredder shaft are within 2 or 3mm, which means there's enough wiggle that I can just connect them directly. It's very cheap and strong. I've almost stalled the motor, which after reduction is putting out around 300Nm, so it's very good.

12:09 PM

1/2 inch sockets are rated for 300Nm, so it's perfect.

hi there, anyone here that can or know somebody who produce injection moulds ? Im looking for someone who can make an eyewear mould for the PP injection machine. I can send CAD files to get the pricing if someone is interested. Thx

https://instagram.com/easymoulds?igshid=h1li2e2iau7p @marek kucharz @Fritz @easymoulds

Hi fellow builders. I'm from Toulouse/France and we started building the injection machine. We have difficulty to find the proper barrel/plunger at local metal suppliers (we've tried a handful already). Anyone in France with experience at what kind of place we can most likely find these parts?

@nicknick Not particular in France, but in Germany there are some dedicated online shops which sell precision barrels and rods. Locally it is very tricky here - at least I would still need to travel 100km by car to get one... Not sure thats better than shipping a parcel^^

Has anyone good ideas what to use for a single PID controller+SSR as a case? The prepared ones I found are like 50$ upwards oO Preferably less than <20$ - and: no welding, no wood

@Fritz @easymoulds I've been thinking of making steel sheet flat/foldable controller boxes. Fold into a box and close with small hardware.

this is the coupler I generally use on a straight shaft. its 14usd plus machining locally.

@Butte (PP Philippines) Can you post a link? I'm using the 2 part finger coupler with the urathane insert.

@CitSciWorkshop Yes thats done often - the thing is, as soon as you calculate the work that goes into it its cheaper to get one of those https://www.voelkner.de/products/289254/Rittal-E-Box-1549500-Installations-Gehaeuse-200-x-200-x-120-Stahlblech-Lichtgrau-RAL-7035-1St..html?ref=19&offer=1b9d39f1b71f04f024be3bc427467e1e&utm_source=idealo&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=S21334&utm_content=intern

Rittal E-Box 1549500 Installations-Gehäuse 200 x 200 x 120 Stahlble...

voelkner ► Rittal E-Box 1549500 Installations-Gehäuse 200 x 200 x 120 Stahlblech

7:57 PM

There doesn't seem to be a high enough of a demand for the people over at Aliexpress

7:59 PM

I dreamed of something readymade like this one - and with enough space for an SSR (which this one does not have)

@Fritz @easymoulds Ours made in the way I described would cost 15-25 Euro depending on size.

1

Hi all, I have the electrician coming in today to wire up my sheet press. Can you confirm the correct positions for both thermocouples. I can’t find them on a diagram specifically. Any other ‘Must knows’ for wiring

Hi everyone, I'm in Nigeria and will like to source parts for my shredder and extrusion machine project. Thank you

@linnto hi, I'm thinking of building a press machine too can you help me with parts listing

There is a build list on the PP downloads

@adams You already downloaded the kit? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download There you can find all material lists, for example here the one for the sheetpress...

Sheetpress_BOM.pdf

203.66 KB

Ou, here is also a very new update for the sheetpress! https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version

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11:33 AM

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11:37 AM

upgraded shredder pro. solid. tough.powerful. blade hardness is around 50 hwd (edited)

hey guys! what's the difference between extrusion machines and injection machines? could we make the same things with the extruder machine as the injection machine?

or, could we be able to fit injection machine moulds into the extruder machine?

@ROJI Extrusion machines are made for continuos extruding. For large moulds >150ccm they can be used as injection machine too. However it is a bit tricky/dangerous to find the right point when you have to stop. For larger moulds that is easier, but I would not recommend it for smaller moulds - unless you drill an overflow-vent into your mould.

alright, thank you bearthumbsup

@nicknick you can order both barrel and plugger in France in acier-detail-decoupe. They are around Lyon, and also ship. Shipping is not cheap of course (heavy), but you can get it to the exact length you need, it should cost around 30€ for both at your door.

Hola, ¿saben cuál es el par recomendado del motor de la extrusora y las especificaciones de la caja de cambios? En la versio pro

9:42 PM

Hello, do you know what is the recommended torque of the extruder motor and the specifications of the gearbox? In the pro version

Hey, I am a final year architecture student doing a research on plastics. I have few questions and wanted to conduct a survey for it. Please participate and give your valuable input. I will also upload the result of the survey for everyone to use. Thank you https://forms.gle/XjenQrH3vQMYVXDt9

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Hello!! I'm new here, I'm looking for a sheet press that can make panels of 2000 x 1000 mm, if someone knows or has a contact of a manufacturer that can do this, I'll appreciate it. Thanks!

1

Hello!! I'm new here, I'm looking for a sheet press that can make panels of 2000 x 1000 mm, if someone knows or has a contact of a manufacturer that can do this, I'll appreciate it. Thanks!

@Paulina Have you looked in the bazzar?

1

@Paulina same here, I've been looking but haven't found any yet.. the 'default' machine is 1m x 1m so this is also what you get in the Bazar. Please let me know if you do find it!

@Paulina Precious Plastic HQ could potentially do this for you. We would then open source it to the whole community after? Why don't you send an enquiry via the main PP website? (edited)

Hey machine builders! We're customising the Shredder V2.1 design for a project and wanted to take this opportunity to implement general improvements to the machine. And eventually, (finally!) make that update in the download kit. We'll be doing that on an online call, and thought it might be interesting for people to join (we can also have a Q&A and little brainstorm session in the end). Our team will be meeting this Thursday at 6pm CET - feel free to join

Here the event (incl. the meeting URL, you should be able to add this to your calendar): https://calendar.google.com/event?action=TEMPLATE&tmeid=Nmg0YTB0YjZpNTQwbWJzcmduaG1uajBhdHYgaGVsbG9AcHJlY2lvdXNwbGFzdGljLmNvbQ&tmsrc=hello%40preciousplastic.com

10

@Paulina that is a specialized press. There are youtube videos that show either an inbuilt oven with a press, or a oven and press working independently. You will need a large amount of plastic and a proper factory. It's a significant investment.

2

@Paulina same here, I've been looking but haven't found any yet.. the 'default' machine is 1m x 1m so this is also what you get in the Bazar. Please let me know if you do find it!

@Norsie Of course

8:36 PM

@Paulina Precious Plastic HQ could potentially do this for you. We would then open source it to the whole community after? Why don't you send an enquiry via the main PP website?

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio Thank you, I will send it

Anybody built the shredder pro v4? The 4mm and 2.5mm spacer drawings indicate mild steel while the laser cut files say they are hardened steel.

We opted for hardened steel on spacers, to match the type in the blades. Either might be fine.

Hey im new here im going to do the normal shredder i send the design to the cutter he asked me what material to use black steel or stainless steel 304 any idea what to aim for??

4:25 PM

And can i do the box black steel and the cutter and the main shredding part stainless steel 304?

Hey machine builders! We're customising the Shredder V2.1 design for a project and wanted to take this opportunity to implement general improvements to the machine. And eventually, (finally!) make that update in the download kit. We'll be doing that on an online call, and thought it might be interesting for people to join (we can also have a Q&A and little brainstorm session in the end). Our team will be meeting this Thursday at 6pm CET - feel free to join

Here the event (incl. the meeting URL, you should be able to add this to your calendar): https://calendar.google.com/event?action=TEMPLATE&tmeid=Nmg0YTB0YjZpNTQwbWJzcmduaG1uajBhdHYgaGVsbG9AcHJlY2lvdXNwbGFzdGljLmNvbQ&tmsrc=hello%40preciousplastic.com

@Precious Plastic This call is in 10 mins for those who are interested in joining!

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1

Will there be any brief summary of the improvements and/or brainstorm? Or it will be just added in a download kit? Couldn't make it for a call

Had a really good session with @Rory - Sustainable Design Studio @Fritz @easymoulds @CitSciWorkshop @Landry @Joseph (and some spectators

), thank you everyone! Major features modified and discussed for this project were:

assemblable and easier shippable frame
safer hopper
casing to protect moving parts
funnel to focus shred into the container underneath
adjustable platform for different container sizes and some more smaller changes.

We've gone through this design and discussed several elements of it and what other elements should be fed into the next iteration - to eventually end up as update in the download kit or as a How-to (to be defined). Looking forward to more discussions like this!!

(edited)

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Hello! Does anyone know if the pressure applied by the sheetpress is still 10kpa?

@Kat I was the spectator who joined the discussion late. Thanks for having me. I'm now based in Auroville, India and we have a makerspace where we build machinery and recycle waste plastic from the beach. Started a plastic recycling business 30 years back in Ecuador, we built everything ourselves including a shredder, aglutinator/mixer, 2.5inch 20:1 extruders, automatic pullers, chillers, etc. I will be happy to give some input on our machine needs (using wind/solar/hand power) for use in areas with poor power infrastructure. Thanks for all the work!

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1

Hello everyone! I am working with a few friends trying to build the Basic Shredder. From what I can see, there is not an extremely detailed download file set (like there is for the shredder pro, for example). I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of finding some extra files including more dimensions for things like the length of hex shaft and electronic schematics. Thank you in advance!

9:30 AM

Oh, one more question. Since I am from Canada, all of the materials I have access to are in imperial units

is anyone aware of any modded machines accounting for this unit change? Thanks again!

@Choonis sending you .rar of basic schedder

Oh sweet, thank you so much!!

How about such a session for the extruder pro soon, i'll be up for that!

@Peter-Bas yes sir!

Okay so... tip for modifying a home paper shredder for plastics, a lot of them have a safety switch and bar inside that detects paper. If you open it up and duct tape it to the on position, the shredder will always run. Works best for cups and lids and straws. (edited)

9:10 AM

I’ve also seen people widen the slot on top of paper shredders to fit bigger items in.

@Joseph what output rpm is 2.2kw bevel gearbox for pro shredder? I have spent hours looking for the specs online but the websites either are not working well, or I am not looking in the right place.

10:07 AM

Also bevel gearboxes are a bit more expensive than worm gearbox. I noticed the Lydia version is using a worm. They are running at 50rpm, not sure if that will make shredder production quite low??? The pro extruder is I believe 100rpm. Any thoughts or recommendations?

I have the non-Pro shredder and what takes the longest is shredding down the plastic to fit through the sieve. When I was just playing with shredding coke bottles it'd take about 15 seconds to shred the actual bottle, but then 3 minutes or so to actually shred the plastic down to 5mm. That was at about 60rpm.

12:40 PM

Because the non-Pro version is a bit different to the Pro, I'm able to connect another motor to the other side of the axle, which I'm planning on doing once I've got things setup, so I'll have my 3 phase motor (different to the original motor) at ~90rpm for the initial shredding and run the shredder without a sieve. Then I'll install the sieve and disconnect that motor and connect a much higher geared motor to the other side and process it much quicker. (edited)

When looking at gearboxes, take into account that worm type gearboxes have an efficiency of about 70%, Bevel type gearboxes have better efficiencies of around 90%. On the academy, look at the required (output) torque values. See the torque as a fixed value and calculate the required Power and RPM from there, taking into account the efficiency of the type of gearbox.

4:04 PM

For the extruder pro 109 Nm is recommended (at output) for the shredder pro it's 1100 Nm (minimum) at the output shaft of the motor/gearbox

I have a updated v2.1 shredder set of files already I can release. It is upgraded to 1.25 inch hex bar which is more common and a 1 inch shaft output. The bearings are attached with m14 stud bolts welded in. I changed the thread rod to 1/2 inch x 8 inch long grade 5 structural steel bolts for easier assembly and the small corner bolts on the side (8) were upgraded to m8 high grade bolts. We also grind a chisel point on the teeth to assist in shredding. We can maybe do up a full assembly pack with blueprints, BOM Step cad file etc if you want.

@Precious Plastic

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5:02 AM

regarding a upgraded injection molder. Originally I was using this for my compression molder but ran into issues with it not holding the pressure. However I think instead it could be used better to power a injection molder.

5:05 AM

by building a frame and attaching your piston to the circled part,

5:05 AM

and using a heavy spring for the return action...

5:05 AM

you could really up your game in injection molding.

5:06 AM

also these machines are generally around 275-300usd world wide. Even in Africa.

5:07 AM

You would need to add on a auxilary cooling fan to the motor however. to col the motor even when the motor is off between cycles to increase the lifespan of the machine

@Butte (PP Philippines) it would be awesome to release your update to the 2.1 shredder with a how - to!

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@Butte (PP Philippines) I thought of that already, but most of them are too slow (in my opinion). There is actually one model at least which works quite fast: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0VKkbx3-3Y&t=41s&ab_channel=Fartools

Fartools

Fendre du bois rapidement: Fendeur de bûche horizontal rapide 7T FA...

We’ve been running a log splitter with our injection machine for a few months! We’ve got a video and how-to in the works with the details of the perfected process

we’ll try to get them uploaded ASAP!

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@sonik They are indeed to slow- has been tested already. The left one looks promising!

Has anyone tried feeding plastic bags or film directly into the extruder?

@PSPlasticinseting bags or film gets clogged, you need to chop them finely, then using a big mixer make them more compact and with friction and heat they become small irregular balls. That machine is called aglutinator. Then those flakes or balls are fed into the extruder. You need small, regular shape to feed into machine.

6:08 AM

Chopping machine cutting film and bags

6:09 AM

6:14 AM

6:34 AM

Mixer or aglutinator

6:37 AM

we do not have any issues with feeding shredded film plastic, however we are using a high speed shredder (600 rpm) and it has a vacuum dust collector 2hp that pulls the shred plastic thru the machine, otherwise it just spins around like a food processor

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@Piers Hi, do you guys use a screw-on mold or do you use a quick release hydraulic coupling? I see people screwing molds on and off which takes ages. I'm wondering if a hydraulic fitting could be used instead?

@0502 it’s screw on this stage. We’re comfortably making parts every 2 minutes.

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You can set up a quick release attachment if you don't want to screw

Hello folks - We need your votes please!! Precious Plastic Northern Rivers are finalists in a grants program. We have applied for $20,000 for THREE MACHINES in Northern NSW, Australia. We are in the community and Other section. We are called Precious Plastic Northern Rivers. https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/2020SCCUGrantsVoting

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Hello everyone! My name is Haley and I am a mechanical engineering student that goes to school in Ohio. For my senior capstone class project my group is tasked with using the Precious Plastic extruder to create plastic lumber that can be used to create a boardwalk in Uganda! My group and I have been unable to test out the extruder because of Covid and have some questions/could use some advice as none of us have any previous experience working with plastics. I found this discord channel and wanted to know if anyone would be able to give us some insight! Thanks in advance!

2

@minvayu Auroville do you have all these machines?

Hello iam devan, iam from indonesia, iam a student and i really interest about precius plastic, i have build a extruder machine from precius plastic, but there is a problem, i have the research about natural fibre reinforcment polymer, but with the extruder machine the polymer and fibre cant to join correctly, and when we mold the plastic there is a bubble inside, can anyone help me to fix it, thank you?

@sharma.sagar94 I have these machines in my home country. 30 years ago I had a recycling business. Now I live in India, Auroville, Tamil Nadu

5:35 AM

@Evanz you need either a twin screw extruder that does a much better job of mixing, a vent to release gas as you extrude ( the natural fiber must be quite dry) or you need to extrude twice to get it properly mixed

@minvayu Auroville these machines are really productive in plastic recycling but they are very expensive to buy. Is there a way we can reverse engineer these, tweak the design and release them open source?

@sharma.sagar94 I built them all, a standard machine shop can make it. The blades we made from spring steel (recycled), and the round tub we made from an old water heater. The issue for the aglutinator is we for example used a 10hp motor, so you will need a good power supply. They also make a lot of noise.

> @Piers Can you post some more video of the setup? I have the same machine but green color. I think Aldi brand. We was thinking about attaching to the front of the cylinder instead of your method after observing it deflect when used as a compression molder

@minvayu Auroville they sure do make a lot of noise but so doea most industrial scale machines. It something we have to make peace with. Do you have plans for those machines? If not then maybe dimensions or a Bill of material. I can convert them to 3D models, maybe we can collaborate?

@Butte (PP Philippines) we have it dismantled at the moment for upgrades. I’ll share a video when we have it all back together. (edited)

@sharma.sagar94 the pictures I posted are actually machines from a nearby recycling facility in Pondicherry. They are common machines everywhere and am sure someone has built them near you in Pune. If you need dimensions when I visit the Pondi factory I take some sizing references and pictures.

Hello !for Extrusion pro motor capacity how much KW is used ??? and the variable frequency drive capacity also I want to know ??? Plz help me out to find suitable motor with vfd ....

@Stephen sukumar the smallest motor is 3kw with a 25rpm gearbox output. You can increase the capacity using a bigger motor up to 5kw.

6:40 PM

Sorry, the above info on rpm is for the shredder. Gearbox output for extruder pro is 150rpm. Same size motors

Ok thanks

6:40 PM

For vfd selection??

VFD drive should match motor kw. Of course bigger VFD drive is fine as it will run cooler

Thanks

VFD drive can run on single or three phase power. If you have single phase power then increase size of VFD by 25%

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6:45 PM

I am building it in my free time as well as going to job ...

6:45 PM

Sorry fabricating it in u r methods

6:45 PM

@Stephen sukumar just curious about facing off the end now, did you weld it together ? more details welcome are very welcome, happy to see jeans jacket btw.

Thank u sir for welcome me

9:37 PM

No not yet welded

well, congrats, a heck of a job

interesting though to keep that aligned, adjustable 4 jaw chuck ?

Becoz I am going weld in few days after build the hopper

9:38 PM

3

9:39 PM

Work is finished for this unit for greesing point I forgotten to make the drill so

9:41 PM

I'll update my every update

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9:42 PM

Thanks

holes look great, possibly 0.2 mm off spec, and the amazing mill / 4 axis job, plus no shatter in the bore, cream ! well done (edited)

Thanks

Hello everyone. I am trying to decide between purchasing an injection molding machine or the extruder pro from the bazar. I know the injection molding machine can only produce small molds, so i was leaning towards the extruder. Can the extruder produce enough pressure to create quality molds with no air pockets?

1

@Stephen sukumar , you might need to cut another register or location ring, just to make sure the next part is fitting well on it as wanted, we do this for any part longer than 10 cm ...

v4 extruder wise, there are 2 or 3 such registers to add. (edited)

Ya for 120° × 3x I asked to the Miller to mill but that told it's difficult in out local location in his machinory it's not possible so he did the job with 120° ×2x with wire cutting machine so ....

10:12 PM

too bad India is still too far away, otherwise I´d hire you right away

Yes it's clear done no issue the thickness is bit increased become I brought the big sold bar to mill

10:15 PM

10:16 PM

lovely, always great to see big stock material, ' your v4 extruder is in there

Hmmmm yes thanks to u all tooo for helping to building it's my dream project now

sure thing, I kinda falled in love with that thing too, happy to see more first hand experience building it

Yes

10:21 PM

Now I am experimenting on screw rod to reduce the cost and also to fabricate with tryle or error !!!!!!!

10:22 PM

that Sir, is amazing, keep shooting

For screw pitch I did this but with this 2 to 3mm air gap I am getting

10:23 PM

22mm is a good pitch from what I´ve seen and done

10:24 PM

on the compression zone you might go down to 15 mm, depends on how you do it (edited)

That I am still going paperwork only

10:26 PM

I'll try if not possible then ill get u r guidelines only

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That´s again another example of Indian/Japanese/Chinese craft beating out the crap of western PP prestigeness

(edited)

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Hi guys, I have a question regarding extruder pro

12:59 PM

In the recomendaciones it says it s better not to use worm type reducer, but if I'm not wrong is the one used in the video

12:59 PM

Do you know what reducer it's the best to be used?

The one in the video is a bevel type gearbox, those have good efficiencies of 90% and up. Worm gear boxes tend to have lower efficiencies of maybe around 70%. You can use them but you might need to use a bigger reduction to reach the required torque (or more power)

3:13 PM

Worm gear boxes tend to be cheaper, but due to the efficiency, less energy efficient

2

We made some octagon molds last year from plasma cut parts. However we did not have good luck with it until yesterday. It turns out that the mold was too cold. Once we heated up the mold with the heat gun, it worked fine. However now we came across the issue of what is called mold sinking. the part shrank unevenly on the z axis while injection molding. Also we rewired a earlier injection molder and now realize that the present wiring method is not acceptable anymore. We need a proper electronic box with bus bars to distribute the power to the heaters. Since we are now at 6 band heaters we are running 12 wires of power. Also we really need to do a better heat shielding with the machine and make a quick connect mold with ejection plunger/pin in the mold. Our new compression mold we are working on has out first attempt at using a ejection plate. It is spring loaded and actuated by hitting the plunger with a rubber hammer on top of the molder. The ejection plate is 40mm round circle with a 1 inch rod that passes thru the mold. Production process: 1 Extrude plastic into heated turbo cooker pot. Pot keeps plastic hot until we have enough material to press. Our next pot is approaching 800 grams of plastic. 2 Transfer blob of hot plastic to the mold, and compress. 3 Hold the mold clamped under pressure (3 tons) with the mold being actively cooled with a water jacket that has anti freeze pumped thru it and cooled with a automotive radiator/AC exhaust fan and regulated with a cheap egg incubator temperature sensor/relay 4 Mold is opened and then a rubber hammer is used to hit the plunger on top of the mold to push the now cooled solid part out of the mold. We are looking at using a timer with a pneumatic 3 way valve to time the press. Also looking at doing the same with powering the extrusion motor to regulate the amount fo plastic extruded and not rely on guessing. I bought one timer but it does not have a external switch

1

The one in the video is a bevel type gearbox, those have good efficiencies of 90% and up. Worm gear boxes tend to have lower efficiencies of maybe around 70%. You can use them but you might need to use a bigger reduction to reach the required torque (or more power)

@Peter-Bas Thanks! Maybe it's worth to add in into the we page

Hi guys, I apologise if this has been asked before but what wire gauge is used for the injection molding machine?

10:22 PM

12?

Hello There, I have some questions about the Motor for the Shredderer Pro V4

10:58 PM

The person whos builing it, ask about the ratio for it, and the horse power and speed... and I really dont understand the video info... He ask if the ratio should be 60 to 1 in a 1300rpm motor..

10:59 PM

shredderer is almoust ready, we should be buying the motor tomorrowm

@pepe_trueno , 1:60, yes, assuming a 1500RPM motor, but yet, that might depend on some other aspects as well .... We use for now https://www.cidepasincron.com/en/26/ckm-right-angle-gearboxes, (4kW, service factor 1). If it´s not to late, you can skip the insane expensive coupling and the lock nut & thread, using a direct 50mm shaft. that way you can also use a 12 mm laser cut base plate to hold all together, compact, cheap and pretty strong, just the gears need ( and ucfl 210 bearings) some moding

(edited)

@pepe_trueno , 1:60, yes, assuming a 1500RPM motor, but yet, that might depend on some other aspects as well .... We use for now https://www.cidepasincron.com/en/26/ckm-right-angle-gearboxes, (4kW, service factor 1). If it´s not to late, you can skip the insane expensive coupling and the lock nut & thread, using a direct 50mm shaft. that way you can also use a 12 mm laser cut base plate to hold all together, compact, cheap and pretty strong, just the gears need ( and ucfl 210 bearings) some moding

@Deleted User Thanks!!!

Thanks for the help, but For some reason I cant acces the web page you send, and I dont kite understand your explanation right now, but I will check in to that. is there an imagen that I can show to they guy whom is building it, he will probably understand better that way. Here in Bolivia "laser cut base plate" its not a cheep option, so we are doing all the old lathe way

Right, then please ignore my comments better which was rather intended for others readers too. Now you have the shredder box and possibly the hexbar already. So, it´s too late for those changes I suggested. (edited)

12:04 AM

Good luck, I can´t wait to see your build

I have everything ready, just need the motor and the other thing (gear box I think, I dont know its name on english... its the thing that reduces motor speed...) (edited)

Reduktor, si y el cojinete tambien, (ucfl209), si. Motor is here in the EU around 1000e ... stupid expensive stuff after all, 3500e all together so far

as they told me, its 500USD, motor and "reduktor"

lucky you

motor is 1300rpms

12:15 AM

its probably made in China....

lots of good things come from there

but the reductor he says its 3.5 to 1 on that motor

no, it must be Motor Speed / Reducer = 25 RPM. normal motors are in the 1500 RPM range, so 1:60 is what you want.

so, all I need to know is that final speed should be close to 25RPM ???

yup, 1: 3.5 is nice for grinding but it´s a shredder, not a grinder

1:3.5 to fast?

1300 / 3.5 = 371 final RPM, toooo fast , for input objects bigger than 2 - 5 cm

ok!

bed time, enjoy your selfs

REALLY REALLY HELPFULL!

don´t forget to post your pictures !

Thanks!!! @Deleted User !!

12:23 AM

don´t forget to post your pictures !

@Deleted User I Wont!

12:23 AM

best regards!!

you´r welcome, bolivia coffee tomorrow !

@Deleted User ites the best!

3:42 AM

Injection molding machine

Hi, I'm building basic extruder (V2), is a 0.5 hp motor capable for extruding beams?

@0mar Very unlikely, at least 2HP with a reducer to have more power but no personal experience with V2 I thought the minimum power was in the files?

@uday Solid construction

But I think with this car jack you would inject to slow! You will not fill your moulds, maybe just small and thick parts.

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Thanks for your opinion. I didn't find motor power in the documents, just the rpms (70). In my country, reducers with a 3/4 shaft at the end are for motors of 0.5 hp and less power. I found a formula, and the suitable power should be 1 hp. But using more powerful motors would implicate modifying the barrel shaft that holds the screw. So, I'd appreciate any advice from someone who has built the basic extruder.

1

@0mar this one here is running just fine (also with the compression screw), https://www.zuendo.com/70-vueltas-finales/2449-motorreductor-monofasico-o-trifasico-075-kw-1-cv-i-20.html (0.75kW, at 1:30). You´d need also a VFD (https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l2632&_nkw=1.5kw+vfd&_sacat=42892&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=vfd+1kw). The bearings can swallow quite some axial load too, so you can use it as thrust bearing

, no sign of wear after years so far.

Motorreductor Monofásico o trifásico 0,75 KW / 1 CV I: 20 - Zuendo

Motor eléctrico monofásico o trifásico ALREN. 0,75kw/1cv. Rpm:1500. 220V.Reductor TAÜSEND.Modelo RSTV050.Reducción I:20.Vueltas finales 70 rpm.FS 0,9.

1.5kw vfd | eBay

Find great deals on eBay for 1.5kw vfd. Shop with confidence.

1

@ProgressInMotion#1072 I would recommend using axial bearing as eventually the gearbox bearing will eventually fail. I also would assume that your current gearbox may run hotter, or the motor may be doing extra work to overcome axial forces on non axial ball bearings.

Hola, no encuentro los documentos descargables para hacer las máquinas

@Jenni Salazar Brito Todos los documentos están en el sitio web aquí: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download . Cada máquina tiene un enlace de descarga :) (hablo ingles, perdon por mi español)

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Hi guys, anyone with a sheetpress know how to remove air bubbles from sheets. I’m on my 10th sheet and still getting air bubbles around the outside. If I use more shredded plastic it ends in a messy finish.

Hi guys, does anyone know what is the exact license type under which precious plastic machines are released? Thanks!

@Deleted User https://preciousplastic.com/about/open-source.html

Hello I am in the process of building a sheet press and have been looking at both PP and Fiction factory builds. Does anyone know why the Fiction Factory version does not have a 32A Circuit Breaker Relay as found int the PP version Bill of materials? https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/sheetpress-v4--fiction-factory-version

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6:12 PM

https://www.distrelec.nl/en/contactor-1nc-3no-230v-32a-15kw-eaton-dilm32-01-230v50-60hz/p/30129499?track=true

DILM32-01(230V50/60HZ) Contactor 1NC/3NO 230V 32A 15kW Eaton

Next-day delivery! Buy Contactor 1NC/3NO 230V 32A 15kW in the Distrelec Online Shop | We love electronics

@itsgeorge Fiction factory switch the current with the SSRs, where as the PP design switches the current via the circuit breaker relay. From my experience with the first option, there's a chance the SSRs will burn out (so you might wanna try cooling the heat sinks with a fan). The PP design just takes that out of the equation, but then the circuit breaker may fail after a lot of use since it is mechanical.

@michael_makes_ Got it thanks!

For those interested I have started posting updates on the large format 3D printer I designed. Open to questions and thoughts! https://www.instagram.com/p/CGPuphjncuC/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

thecirculardesigner

With little modification of the code I managed to get the first test prints from the newly designed #Circular3D Printer. Now just need to add nozzle cooling, tidy up a huge cable mess and soon it will be ready for some big prints.

️ Follow my feed to find out how you ge...

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How long would you suggest the thermocouples for the sheetpress be? I am finding shorter ones at around 2m and not 3m as found on the PP BOM. Also a little unclear on where the sensor is attached to the machine, was it just attached to the support structure? If this is the case than it doesn't really matter what M type screw is needed?

@itsgeorge i used 2m thermos but it’s tight. The sheet press hot plates do have a location for best accuracy with positioning. Have a look in the schematics

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@linnto Will do, I'll try and find something longer but happy to hear 2m can work.

Anyone used anything other than steel for an injector/extrusion barrel? Copper would of course have far better conductivity... is steel just preferred because of its huge array of fittings for the nozzle etc?

I'm not sure how much of a difference steel vs copper conductivity would make in this scenario. The steel is capable of conducting enough of the heat from the heaters to melt the plastic, which is all that matters. Copper is significantly more expensive than steel. Steel is more readily available. Steel also has a higher strength. shrug

how to make a machine to obtain fiber

@j_hen it needs to be steel. The screw is made of hardened steel. I made the barrel of stainless steel as it will last longer. A copper barrel would be I think more expensive and would not last as long as steel.

Hello guys...I need help. I am trying to make bricks from plastic waste...the lego type. I have the extruder machine as well as the mold but I don’t know how to connect the mold to the mouth of the machine. The mouth of the machine is circular and the mold is rectangular. I worry about how to connect it and how the material will flow continuously to the end of the mold. How can I do it please? Please help.

@Salu wow that's a pretty big extruder nozzle

What are the dimensions of the nozzle and inlet of the mould? I'd say that you could weld some pieces of flat iron with a hole for a screw (and propably reinforce it so it wont bend under its own weight and pressure from extruder) and another two into the gap of the mould to fit at least approximately to the nozzle. Then just screw it using the holes on the nozzle. I fear it maybe not enough taking into account the weight of the mould like that full of plastic. Also I'd say that you'll need to heat the mould so the plastic flowing in won't cool down until the mould is full. Sorry for my epic drawing skills

(edited)

Thanks for the response. I have been reading quite a lot about noozles and I think mine is just too damn wide for the mold. How to streamline it and ensure it can screw together is a bit of a headache. Thanks a lot.

Hello! I have a question. The technician thats building my shredderer says that there is no way the machine will shredd if plugued to a monofasic motor, that it has to be trifasic , ¿is that true? I believe that on a monofasic conection, with an 3hp motor and a 60 to 1 reduktor, it wil shredd anything. Can anyone help me onn that

3:37 PM

also, the low speed on the shredder, it becouse plastic will bounce, or it has something to do with torque?

@Salu yep, it looks pretty big. What is material of the tube and how do you heat it? It must have a insane energy consumption. It's some kind of large industrial extruder? I don't see screw in the nozzle. It'll need a lot of reworking, but I believe it can be done. Do you have more pictures?

I would simply weld a circular plate on the mould matching the one of the nozzle. It it is thick enough (at least 15mm) It would not bend and it should do. Probably need at least 6 attachment points

4:14 PM

If the nozzle plate is not big enough, weld a bigger one

4:15 PM

yeah and a support for the mould

Is anyone sending PET material like water bottles and jugs through a Shredder Pro? We've had clients testing this material with limited success, and I'd like to optimize their shredder for them.

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Yes but the problem is that when the two plate join together, there can’t be a guarantee that the material will flow into the mold directly. From experience, the material splashes all over the plate and makes a mess of everything.

5:55 PM

@magi SVK I use industrial heaters. 7 heaters actually. There’s a screw in it and I have been using the machine for a while. The only problem is how to work a noozle to connect to the mold so everything can work out well.

Maybe heat up your mould before, there is no reason that if it can flow in it, the plastic will choose instead to separate two tight plates. Also the opening of the nozzle looks massive I would have thought you need a bit of compression there. I have bent some pretty thick plates with the extruder but only when the plastic froze in the mould

@Salu wow, that's one B.F. extruder. So you have a plate with the holes on the first pic, and this one on last pic, with smaller nozzle? What i see as a problem is that screws are too far from the pipe/hole. There have to be incredible pressure given the load of material extruding. So first I'd say you should not just cover a hole with a flat, but you should need a cone (for the compression that @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland talked about) either in the tube or sticking out of it (propably out as you could then add a nozzle with some kind of attachment for the mould). Also you could try to find a way how to move screws closer to the pipe to lower the possibility of bending the plate furthermore.

I would have a look to this too besides https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-into-a-closed-mould Considering the setup I am not sure how much this extruder can take in terms of back pressure. If the front resists too much (nozze compression), the screw will go backward. Motor looks tiny too. I would say keep your mould real hot

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Thank you!

@0mar I am also currently trying to upgrade a V2 to extrude beams. How did you calculate the suitable power? Also are you going to be using one of the compression screws?

8:07 PM

Also in the PP video of the extruder pro posted on the youtube channel, the beam mold does not appear to be heated. Does anyone have any past success extruding without heating the mold? Additionally, is the end of the mold open or closed? I am confused on how it could be closed because the air would need to be removed somehow, but also confused how it could be open because the beam needs to be compressed as it is extruded. Any input helps!

Hey, I'm looking into the Pro Shredder and the design looks great. I would like to know if the design knives could handle carbon fiber and glass composites so that when using thermoplastic matrix the fiber and matrix could be recycled. I would also appreciate if anyone has any links to resources that have information on optimizing the shredder blades. Number of teeth per blade? Blade diameter? The tooth depth? And how far the two shafts should be spaced from each other. Thanks!

Hi guys, here is our upgrade compression molder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BGQ3DfTr-Q We are making larger plant pots now and the 3 ton air bag jack does not have enough pressure or stroke to work right. We re-purpose the frame and mounted the hydraulic log splitter underneath.

Precious Plastic Philippines

precious plastic hydraulic compression molding machine

3

4:01 AM

the valve is now moved via motorcycle brake cable and we extended the wiring and moved the power switch. two hand operation for safety. (edited)

4:02 AM

We are also building a low cost cnc plasma table for sale locally for our makers. price is 1000usd

Amazing!

Hi all, I could use some input on a benchtop injection molder I've been working on. The intent is to build an inexpensive machine with off the shelf parts & minimal processing that can rival the specs & convenience of something like the LNS Model 150A. Once completed, I plan on open sourcing this on Github (aiming for end of November). I've reviewed a few different machines and took some ideas from each, but since I've never actually injection molded anything I could use some insight from someone more experienced. Do you see any obvious flaws in the design, or easy ways to improve?

4:53 AM

Features are:

~1.2 in3 shot volume. (possibly more in actual use)
1" spring-loaded hot section travel to allow the nozzle to travel to the mold. (easier cycles)
5" max mold height. The hot section can be lowered & adjusted as an assembly by loosening 4 screws.
Minimal metal-working required. No CNC lathes or welding, just some light drilling and tapping.
Expected Cost of under $250.
When removed from the tube, the plunger rests on a mount on top of the frame (STILL IN DESIGN). Hardware Used: (all dimensions are in mm unless otherwise noted) (light green parts are 3D printed)
25OD, 20ID Stainless Steel Hot Section Tube.
2qty 30mm heater bands are used.
The tube is secured to the frame with 1qty SCS25UU Bearing.
A 1" long spring is used to return the hot section after injection.
1" hose clamps are used to trap the spring and limit travel.
- 20OD, 10ID hollow Stainless Steel tube plunger, both ends tapped for M10.
A M10 hex bolt is used to plug the hot end of the plunger.
- Frame is 5050 aluminum extrusion.
The controller is a Rex-C100 and fits inside the bottom of the frame.
.75" thick poplar hardwood is used to mount the vise & as the bottom plate. Future changes:
Finish design of plunger rest.
Design funnel. I'm looking at cutting the end off a metal funnel, bending flanges from the bottom and then clamping the flanges with the upper hose clamp. Thoughts on this approach?
Vise is currently a harbor freight cheapo vise, but I plan to design a push/pull clamp vise for quick mold changes.
3D printed power supply port.
Changes/optimizations to 3D printed parts.

(edited)

4:53 AM

Any insight you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Pics of the whole machine & a cross section of the hot-section are below.

4:53 AM

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4:53 AM

@Molly look really good! I'd have a few questions though.

isn't the barrel/nozzle too close to the frame? I mean, this way you will be terribly limited in means of position of the mould inlet - it would be on the side mostly (?), so you'll need heated mould so the melted plastic won't cool down before filling the mold.
when plunger is pulled out, you'd have to put it inside manually? Or there will be some guide to fit it in the barrel? Also plastic flakes will be inserted straight into barrel with separated cone? Maybe if you put some kind of cone on the top of barrel, it would both ease the filling the barrel and fitting the plunger - win-win
it is necessary to have any kind of vise to hold up the mould? The only force applied to the mold is from the barrel - therefore almost no force from the side (?)

I don't have an injection yet, this just came to my mind looking at mechanical side of the force.

@magi SVK Thanks for the feedback! Gave me a lot to think about and some awesome ideas, particularly with the guide/funnel:

Good catch on the barrel. I'll up the thickness of the bracket which should allow it to clear the frame a bit more.
The mold would have to probably be side-entry, which seems OK from other molds I've seen such as this one from LNS https://www.techkits.com/products/mold-heart/. No idea on the heated mold... I've seen some molds with heaters & some without. I expect if the plastic path in the mold is short enough, you can probably get away without heating it since the plastic will fill the whole mold before it starts solidifying. Gonna have to experiment on this one, if it proves necessary a small heater cartridge could probably be embedded in the mold and some small controllers for it mounted to the side of the machine.
Right now you'd have to locate the plunger manually. I'll look at designing a 3d printed funnel/guide that will replace the upper hose clamp. It'd clamp on to the top of the barrel and hold the spring. For the funnel/guide portion, it'd be funnel 120deg around and the other 240deg would be matched to the barrel to serve as a guide for the plunger. So you'd fill plastic through the funnel, take the plunger off the rest, locate it against that guide, and you're good to go.
The vise serves two functions: it holds the mold in place before the nozzle contacts it from the top, and it provides clamping force to hold the mold halves together to prevent plastic from flashing out between the two halves of the mold. I've seen some people use screws to fasten the two mold halves together and not need a vise, but it looks like the vise would allow the user to cycle parts quicker (unclamp the mold, pop out the parts & go vs. unscrew 4 screws, remove part, refasten screws,etc). Definitely a phase 2 item, but I'd like to swap the vise for a push pull clamp for easier mold cycling

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@Molly very well then, looks good to go! Using vise this way is pretty neat idea, it surely is faster than screws/almost any fasteners I would say. I assume you'll go for something like this one? Another concern is positioning of the inlet. You would need all molds to have inlet in the same distance from the firm part od the vise, which can be tricky.

Hi everyone. I from Argentina, few days ago finish my shredder starter. Now my next step it is compression. I am loking for plans to compression molds !

8:54 PM

@Molly How much force will be applied to the flexible link when the mechanism is triggered? I guess the 3D print will fail after several times of operation. Keep in mind that heat will be transfered from your heatbands to the connecting structure. So its likelywise nearby components will not be as strong as in cold condition. Adding a heat-break from another material will help to prevent that.

Hello, nice to meet you, I am from Chile and I want to see the possibility of starting the recycling business in my place of origin. I have read a lot from the web about how to do the process, however I cannot find the plans properly so, and to send to make the pieces for the crusher and others I require that information. I appreciate anyone who can help me or forward the files to o.riveros007@gmail.com

@Fritz @easymoulds Thanks for the feedback and insight.

I took a look into the link strength. Per some napkin math, I'm planning for ~160lbf tensile force on the link, which may be acceptable if the wishbone link is printed with a high infill and favorable orientation. If it isn't enough, backup plan could be to use 2 metal bars mounted to the side of the extrusion, much the same as the LNS 150a. (TBH, I may just go this route from the get-go, need to mull it over).
I'm hoping there's enough material between the bands and mounts that heat transfer to 3D printed components won't be substantial, but I'll keep this idea in mind in case it's too much. If it just needs a bit of cooling, I could probably rig up a fan on the barrel above the heater bands to pull some heat away as well.

(edited)

@Molly I designed/built a injector with a .75 inch internal diameter and my biggest complaint is how long it takes for the plastic to heat up all the way through (ie: i would wait 10+ minutes between shots). Plastic unfortunately isn't a very good thermal conductor and piston injectors don't do any mixing of the plastic unlike the screw injectors used in for mass production. I think, therefore, it is taking a while for the plastic in the center to get to temperature. For my next version i plan to build a much longer barrel with a smaller diameter. My prototype also had heaters all along the entire length of the barrel while yours appears to only have two heaters close to the tip (if I understand correctly)? Curious if that will give you issues. (edited)

8:31 PM

@Molly I have also experimented with using a vice to hold together my molds but found that it never held the top of the mold together firmly enough and would leak or leave ugly part lines. i switched back to just using bolts and wing nuts for the clamping pressure and use the vice simply to keep the mold upright and in place. Maybe a taller vice would have worked better that is at least the same height as the mold however the mold and vice would need to be in perfect even alignment, no? i'm curious have you tested this approach yourself and had better luck? (edited)

8:37 PM

@Molly i should also note that in my plastic injection adventures every single one of my molds have been a different size which would require there be a way to adjust the position of the vice. Having the back of the vice in a fixed position might be quite limiting. Unless you could find a vice where both the front and back have screws and handles so you can clamp it exactly where you want it. (edited)

8:37 PM

Not sure if any of this helps - has just been my experience so far. Curious if others have had different results

@Cmjstealth The vice is a tricky thing - it only works if the cavity area is within the clamp height of the vice. Also it has less force than bolt clamping with multiple bolts.

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@Cmjstealth Thank you for your response. This is a huge help; awesome feedback & info.

10min is unacceptably long between shots imho. I went with 25 OD 20 ID since it was convenient for parts sourcing and that's what was used in AndysMachines' build (link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nefLfhUaODM&feature=youtu.be). But time between shot needs to be 1-3mins. I'll do a heat transfer analysis and see what I get. Adjusting the length & decreasing ID should be easy enough, though an OD change would require BOM adjustments, though I think only the smaller ID band heater would be hard to source.
It sounds like the vise might be a non-starter, or at least not a good choice. Perhaps a push/pull clamp like following link could be used to clamp against the 5050 extrusion frame itself? https://www.thetoggleclampstore.com/302f.html The plunger end would face directly to the frame and press the mold against it. If you need to position the mold away from the frame to get the nozzle to line up the mold inlet, you could use metal plates as shims between the frame & mold. If something like that doesn't work, then screws it is (at least, for the time being).

Curious what you learn from your heat transfer analysis. Hopefully my 10min wait time was excessive? Trying to give it enough time to rule out heating as a potential issue. I was also having to heat my mold each time as well so I had multiple factors at play that could contribute to short shots. I plan to have temperature sensors built in all over the place for my next version both for troubleshooting and to improve thermostat control. I was manually preheating my mold each time in a toaster oven and confirming with a handheld infrared thermometer so the consistency wasn't ideal. Certainly not as streamlined as i want for easy repeatable results.

I am considering building the injector with 38mm ID steel tube and several 235w heater bands in 2 temperature zones. I am going for larger diameter tube for bigger shot volume. I am intending to make wheels, pulleys and other round items. I have a metal lathe for finishing operations. Any ideas from builders? Thanks. I am in Gisborne New Zealand and I have a working shredder.

Wait! The OD is 38mm and the wall thickness is 1.6mm giving an ID of 34.8mm. I can get 35mm OD material for a piston. I just need to skin it a bit.

@Ross Marsden if you can, source some hydraulic cylinder tube. Precision ground and has a thicker wall. 1.6mm is cutting it fine. Easysteel might be worth checking out.

I know that PP abandoned the compression oven design a few versions ago, but is anyone out there still using the oven method? PP said it was hard to scale but wanted to hear from the community if anyone was still using it, especially for production. I realize the heating time is longer etc but the lack of moving pieces is attractive to me.

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We have a compression oven, it can be useful to melt large stuff. On the side you can have a hydraulic press, That's what I would do today (ours is going through). I still like it to make tests, press large things

Hey! We are doing some design modifications to the Extrusion machine and want to take this as an opportunity to implement general improvements to the machine (like we already did with the Shredder a few weeks ago) - and eventually see what makes sense to update in the download kit. Really liked how it worked with the Shredder review call, so we'll do that again: Our team will be meeting this Friday at 6.30pm CET. Feel free to join in to contribute with ideas or just listen

(we can also have a Q&A and little brainstom session in the end). Here the event (you should be able to add this to your calendar): https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0/r/eventedit/copy/MHZxdGplN3Nwa2pxc3JpMXQ4bDNtaDdmbm4gcHJvamVjdHNAcHJlY2lvdXNwbGFzdGljLmNvbQ/Y29tbXVuaXR5QHByZWNpb3VzcGxhc3RpYy5jb20?sf=true Or here directly the Meeting URL: meet.google.com/okm-tgjo-nxx (edited)

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Hey! We are doing some design modifications to the Extrusion machine and want to take this as an opportunity to implement general improvements to the machine (like we already did with the Shredder a few weeks ago) - and eventually see what makes sense to update in the download kit. Really liked how it worked with the Shredder review call, so we'll do that again: Our team will be meeting this Friday at 6.30pm CET. Feel free to join in to contribute with ideas or just listen

(we can also have a Q&A and little brainstom session in the end). Here the event (incl. the meeting URL, you should be able to add this to your calendar): https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0/r/eventedit/copy/MHZxdGplN3Nwa2pxc3JpMXQ4bDNtaDdmbm4gcHJvamVjdHNAcHJlY2lvdXNwbGFzdGljLmNvbQ/Y29tbXVuaXR5QHByZWNpb3VzcGxhc3RpYy5jb20?sf=true

@Precious Plastic Really interested but the link only opens the calendar and that's it

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@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland second that

Gathering all the material for the sheetpress. What gauge steel tubing would you guys recommend? Many suppliers provide 1/8" (11 gauge) and 3/16" (7 gauge).

Hello friends of the world! My name is Rodrigo from Monterrey Mexico and I'm trying to build the shredder pro! I'd like some advice since i'm building it from some spare parts of other machines... I'm using a different set of gears, this one's are a little bigger and have more teeths and some what smaller.. Does anyone have tried a different set of gears that could enlighten me if it is a good way to go? since I'd have to modify all the parts to fit the new size etc...

@itsgeorge @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland the link should send you to a calendar event which you can save to your own calendar. (At least that's how it worked for me) Also added the meeting URL to the message! (meet.google.com/okm-tgjo-nxx)

@Kat it sends me to nowhere, generates an error message in the URL (sorry French google) https://calendar.google.com/calendar/u/0/r?msg=Impossible+de+trouver+l%27%C3%A9v%C3%A9nement+demand%C3%A9.&msgtok=c1212ea8d0ec4cec1ddec811318fd7f0803db74f&sf=true

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@blk.wth Why do you want thicker walls? This is a simple hand operated machine. Are you worried that the tube will burst from the "imense pressure"? Suppose you find a hydraulic tube of suitable diameter and length. What are you going to use for the piston?

@itsgeorge 11 gauge is fine. Are you building an imperial version of the machine?

@michael_makes_ Yes I am kind of new to this so I am just converting everything as close as I can to feet and inches. Like today I was at the junkyard and picked up 5"x3" instead of 120mm x 60 and 4x2 instead of 80mm x 40mm steel tubing. The laser cut stuff I left alone in metric.

I was able to find 1/2" aluminum plate at the junkyard as well but nothing on it to identify what kind it is. I am having trouble finding exactly 10mm aluminum plate in the states. 10mm = .39 inches. I was able to find an online supplier that provides aluminum plate in .375 but its not "milled". 6061-T651 aluminum. The junkyard stuff (1/2 inch) is about half the price is straight but has minor scratches on its face. Any insight would help.

okay i am so confused

7:06 AM

i'm interested in building the injection machine, but what I presume to be the official build tutorial page has no BOM

7:06 AM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection

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7:07 AM

nowhere in here does it say what pipe I need, what electronics components I need, anything

7:08 AM

is there a github page for this? or anything besides this shitty webpage and youtube video that give zero specifics? (edited)

7:08 AM

I don't understand how a random person is supposed to actually build this

@moshi have you checked out the BOM in the download kit?

where?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

7:15 AM

Everything you need is there. You will want to compare your local access to the BOM and adjust as necessary.

okay, this is more what i would expect

7:16 AM

still, putting it in a downloadable zip is weird'

7:16 AM

make it a Git repo somewhere

It is.

where?

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

Precious Plastic Downloadpack. Contribute to ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit development by creating an account on GitHub.

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For the aluminum plates in the sheet press I think I found a decent supplier but provides 5083-H116 vs 5083-H32 vs 5083-O. Any insight as to which one is appropriate or are they all acceptable?

@itsgeorge , 5038-H32 (https://www.aalco.co.uk/datasheets/Aluminium-Alloy-5083-H32-Sheet_140.ashx) seems to have a slightly better thermal conductivity over the others (http://asm.matweb.com/search/SpecificMaterial.asp?bassnum=MA5083O) - minor, considering the energy you still have to pump in there

It´s kinda fun to see and hear the relays sparking in, especially when PV is settled and oscillating around the SP.

9:36 PM

Anyone tried the 200W heaters ?

im building a shredder pro, but having issued getting information on motors, I downloaded the precious plastics kit but cant find information in there, can anyone point me in the right direction?

Morning from Precious Plastic Philippines.

2:46 AM

I think I have found a super low cost method to add hydraulics to our machines. Well super low cost vs buying a standard hydraulic power pack/pump/tank combo anyways.

2:47 AM

Turns out that automotive and truck power steering pumps develop between 800 and 3000psi and they are happily outputting full power at 1750rpm, the standard speed of a induction motor.

2:50 AM

So basically you can hack a power steering pump+tank+fittings+1.5hp electric motor and you got a < 350USD hydraulic system. Compared to the Ali express hydraulic power pack that is 1000usd +shipping +customs and local sourced parts, this seems like a interesting project.

1

Hey! We are doing some design modifications to the Extrusion machine and want to take this as an opportunity to implement general improvements to the machine (like we already did with the Shredder a few weeks ago) - and eventually see what makes sense to update in the download kit. Really liked how it worked with the Shredder review call, so we'll do that again: Our team will be meeting this Friday at 6.30pm CET. Feel free to join in to contribute with ideas or just listen

(we can also have a Q&A and little brainstom session in the end). Here the event (you should be able to add this to your calendar): https://calendar.google.com/event?action=TEMPLATE&tmeid=MHZxdGplN3Nwa2pxc3JpMXQ4bDNtaDdmbm4gcHJvamVjdHNAcHJlY2lvdXNwbGFzdGljLmNvbQ&tmsrc=projects%40preciousplastic.com Or here directly the Meeting URL: meet.google.com/okm-tgjo-nxx

@Precious Plastic Hola

Little reminder, this is happening later today - feel free to join

@Butte (PP Philippines) I think some of the systems are using compressed air, that is simpler and easier to implement.

agree

Compressed air (non leaking air lines are pricey) and hydraulic have their problems though - that might be also problematic for the client and vendor in the long . I'd rather opt for rack and gear via gearbox motor for the injector, minimal machining and mostly off the shelf components, with a variety of hacking options. For home shop & fun, sure - why not (edited)

> @minvayu Auroville We tried using air bag jack at 3 tons, and while it works for small items up to 200 grams, we need to go bigger and start exploring molding items in the 800g-5kg range now. (edited)

2:32 AM

2:33 AM

2:38 AM

With the higher pressure, we eliminated sinkage in the thick parts until the mold got too hot, as we was testing and did not have the liquid cooling installed. Also do not mind the cold welds in the plastic. I tried to re-use some of the hot flashing but it did not re heat up enough to mix well, and each pot had a varying amount of extra carbon powder pigment.

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2:39 AM

this is a paying commission job, so I cant submit these as final samples.

@spencer 3hp motor with bevel gearbox. 150rpm output for extruder pro

5:13 AM

For shreder pro 3-5hp motor 60:1 ratio so rpm is 25rpm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mR8S8vmPfGA the inside of our high speed shredder.

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Philippines shredder

2

@Butte (PP Philippines) where did you get those baldes? you made it yourself?

7:41 AM

looks nice

@Butte (PP Philippines) where did you get those baldes? you made it yourself?

@ShrednMelt_Xu Yes, Waterjet cut on 5 axis waterjet machine from AR500 steel

wow. 5 asix waterjet.

it was actually lower cost to do this, than to cut, machine, and heat treat

yeah. i know. this is the reason i use NM500 to make shredder blades

I do not trust the quality of Philippines heat treating shop. So I buy the steel already tempered

7:45 AM

After this sheet is used, I will go to a European armor plate that is even better.

did you test the hardness of the AR500?

our design is similar to the robot digg design shredder

7:46 AM

HARDNESS 477 – 550 BHN Minimum surface hardness of 477 BHN. Core hardness 450 min BHN. IMPACT STRENGTH CVNL average values of 20ft. lbs at -40 ° F.

your steel looks like armor plate, maybe a ar600?

no. NM500.

ah

7:50 AM

this is my first time to use the AR500,

7:50 AM

I have made a lot of blades using the other armor plate for other uses. But the cost is double of AR500 per sheet.

7:51 AM

AR5000 was 400usd a sheet

7:51 AM

and the armor plate is 1000USD

hows the size of your sheet ?

4x8 feet

meter?

1220mm x 2438 x 8mm

see

Motor is Taiwan Teco 5hp.

7:54 AM

We used to buy motor from China, but since Covid the supply is not reliable.

i also want to build the fast speed shredder. just dont have time.

. im on a project . making reactor to turn plastic to fuel

7:56 AM

small scal reactor

I would love to try that, but me also, so many project.

7:57 AM

We are building a low cost CNC plasma for Philippines market.

7:57 AM

only 1000 USD including tax

1000USD, everthing? including plasma machine?

7:59 AM

the cnc system. you use arduino GRBL?

not including the plasma torch

7:59 AM

GRBL and bluetooth

i prefer Mach3

2

me too, but no phone app for mach3

@Butte (PP Philippines) I built the goodenoughcnc and made it plasma cutter. Cost was 1200 5ys ago, now probabaly 800usd. I used the proma thc. Sadly my cheap Chinese plasma died on me. Need to buy something better for replacement. Could only cut up to 6mm.

@moses#6590 Hey, I am getting ready to build an injector. We could work together. I already bought and have two temperature controller kits from Wish. I have found where I can buy the tube and a plunger. I am going for 38 mm OD which is about 35 mm inside diameter. I plan to mount on a wall, not free standing. Less making in it. I have a shredder. And a mounting stock of chips.

has anyone ever used a 0.75kw motor for the basic schredder? i am aiming to mostly cut simple bottle caps

@Thydric 0.75kw is 750 watt and about 1 hp. I am using a 0.75 HP motor through a 30:1 gearbox with a V1 shredder. It runs about 70 rpm.. It is quite happy with thin bottles that have been pre-chopped to about 60 x 150 mm chunks. Take off the bottom, the neck and 3 more cuts across the handle and body. I am getting ready to do a run of bottle caps. (edited)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3y8C4EPe-aM

Precious Plastic Philippines

CNC plasma table

1

@Butte (PP Philippines) plasma table looks nice, it has got the feel of a Langmuir CNC

did anyone tried to laser cut MDF to create the injection molds?

3:30 PM

like, cutting and stacking the cuts

@tubaro1 I don't know if that would work. Wood products might smolder then combust in the range that the plastic needs to melt. 180-230C

@CitSciWorkshop And for those like HDPE? they requiere less temp

5:05 PM

I'm asking this because I saw the guys from Plastico Chido that they achive something like that, they are at this server too, but i'm waiting por a reply

less temp = more pressure, so I don't know how wood would hold up. If they have some experience with it that would be exciting to see if they've made a method that works well. I rely on metal and so haven't experimented at all, so consider my input merely opinion.

also, the guys from Brothers Make (i think thats their name at youtube) uses like a wax paper over the wooden parts

5:08 PM

I'll try, I have a Laser cutter, but not a CNC to machine metal parts

5:09 PM

that's one of the issues, i guess, to implement many projects of PP in comunities that don't have many tools or are expensive to use. For example, the shredder in my country (Argentina) turns to be expensive

5:10 PM

Anyway, if anyone had some experience with molds made with wood, please, let us know. Thanks!

I think there might be some examples of an internal cast silicon layer, with wood backing to hold the shape. I will look around too! You've piqued my interest!

@tubaro1 as alternative, wood (stacked laser cuts ..) and Aluminum does well as well always check forum, https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/portable-desktop-injection-machine/

Dave Hakkens

Portable desktop injection machine - Dave Hakkens

Hey guys, it was suppose to be an easy thing I thought but I spent then 3 full days on it at the end, lots of hours on the lathe, 1-2 hours welding and a little bit on the mill. I wanted the best - Dave Hakkens

plant pot molding

1

2:28 AM

This is what 35.5 kilos of recycled plastic looks like. 7 hours work.

2:30 AM

6

only this much more to clean up from Manila Bay

3

1

5

Did you make mould for this to be used with injection or extruder ?

this is extruded and then compressed

how much time takes to make each of them? extruding/pressing/cooling

9 min

Anyone has tried to use a scissor lift to press? Looks like you can find some decent ones at low price

Injection Machine : Does anyone know if I can use band heaters of 150W instead of 190W as it says in the pdf of the web? My question is if I am going to be able to reach the necessary temperature to do the work. I could not find the item on ebay from 190W up. Thanks in advance

Anyone has tried to use a scissor lift to press? Looks like you can find some decent ones at low price

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Likely not enough clamping force. I started out with the scissor car jack as per Daves design. After several breakage, I changed to 3 ton air bag jack. You also need speed in your press. Speed to press it before it freezes. Even at 6 tons, my hydraulic press takes seconds to clamp. That short time is enough to make ripples in the parts.

1

Now compression molding with more crunchy goodness. Ejection plate with a lever.

1

@Butte (PP Philippines) where did you get that plant mold?

@Angus17 we made it in house

4:02 AM

we can make molds for others

4:02 AM

on a commission basis

4:03 AM

engineering is 35usd per hour. plus fabrication and DHL from Manila

@butte do you have a website?

4:09 AM

@Butte (PP Philippines)

just our FB page

4:18 AM

https://www.facebook.com/preciousplasticphils

Log into Facebook | Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

anyone here with a pro shredder? do you use a plunger or not find it necessary?

Hello from Lebanon! I am in the process of building the extruder pro, but I can not find a local manufacturer to make the extrusion screw for me. Does anyone in the community build them? Thanks in advance

Hi everyone! Could someone help me find the download kit for the shredder pro? I can't find it on the website. Thanks!

1

I can Make molds, I'm from Portugal and I have a CNC shop

Hey, could anyone tell me what tools I should have for trying to start a machine shop?

4:34 PM

like recommendations for tools that I would need in general

@Derpyhsi Welding machine Lathe Angle grinder

Thank you!

4:36 PM

also thanks for liking my photo on instagram

1

4:39 PM

im @zomops

@Derpyhsi Also have a look at these sites: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

It's possible to create the shredder without a plasma cutter? any alternative? DIY? (i'm talking about the blades)

Hello, my name is Curran and I am working on starting a plastic recycling center in my community. I am trying to get a quote for that laser cut parts for the Basic shredder but the laser company insists on a PDF file to confirm dimensions and due to being in Canada they would also like the measurements in imperial. I cant seem to find the a PDF in any of the download links on the Precious Plastic web page, does a PDF exist and is it possible to build the machine if i have them cut everything on the closest matching material?

1

@tubaro1 you could mill them. Some attempts at handcutting have been made as well. Unsure of results.

It's possible to create the shredder without a plasma cutter? any alternative? DIY? (i'm talking about the blades)

@tubaro1 yes it is possible but you are talking a enormous amount of work. you will have to print out the parts blueprints exact size on paper, then glue or use label paper to paste the blueprints on the steel sheet, then carefully cut out using a angle grinder and drill. method of last resort, will likely cost more than laser cutting and worse quality

Butte is absolutely correct, your cost in man hours will greatly exceed the cost of laser cutting, for worse quality.

c'mon guys, it's not that hard and actually a good exercise to train your drill and filing skills. you can get it same precise as laser cut, possibly even better if you're patient. it takes around 15 mins for one blade and the housing is also super easy :-)

8:11 AM

have a look at Clickspring, this guy filing out clock parts with a file, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA?&ab_channel=Clickspring (edited)

Clickspring

I'm Chris from Clickspring, and I create home machine shop project videos with a focus on clock making technology. Join me as I make an authentic replica of ...

At the end of the day, you do whatever works for you. I'm no stranger to getting things done with the limited tools I have haha.

9:07 AM

That being said 15 min sounds rather optimistic to go from sheet to finished blade, and somewhat limits your material choices (eg hardox or stainless will go through drills like nobodies buisness)

yeah, the guy asked for DIY alternatives, I think this can incl. drillpress, files and beltsander / bench grinder. In Chile, Peru,... even an hour on the blade is still cheaper

Clickspring btw. has great videos making files, drill machines and lots about heat treating

one of the best channels to learn from (edited)

He's fantastic, watched all his videos and eagerly looking forward to the next Antikythera video

1

Planning on building a press similar to the MMID design. Any suggestions or recommendations on improvements of this design? I have some of the materials for square pipe and u beams so that is driving the preference of this design. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EikI1hzRn40

Mark Bachrach

Plastic Plate Press Build teaser - By Studio MBB

AMAZING GUYS! @CitSciWorkshop, @Butte (PP Philippines), @TruthTeller many thanks for the ideas!

5:31 PM

yeah, the guy asked for DIY alternatives, I think this can incl. drillpress, files and beltsander / bench grinder. In Chile, Peru,... even an hour on the blade is still cheaper

Clickspring btw. has great videos making files, drill machines and lots about heat treating

one of the best channels to learn from

@TruthTeller Exactly, the same happend in every country at LATAM, an hour of hand work is cheaper than the plasma cutter :/ (edited)

@tubaro1If you give it a shot, please log your hours and time investment. Having a laser dedicated to PP, I hope that we can disrupt the service cost and eventually achieve a good economy for the services one might need to outsource.

sure thing.

@minvayu Auroville , Re sheetpress, you want just a big press or integrating heating (needs lots of power, with a lot of waste ...) ? Perhaps this might be cheaper with alternative materials - yet pyramidic, eventually concrete (self flattening) or similar could do better accuracy, ... .The press mechanism could be also simpler, 8T jack might do it as in pp-v4. For the sliders, I'd try scaffolding if it has to be cheap.

@tubaro1If you give it a shot, please log your hours and time investment. Having a laser dedicated to PP, I hope that we can disrupt the service cost and eventually achieve a good economy for the services one might need to outsource.

@CitSciWorkshop Fiber lasers sadly for us will not even come close to recovering our investment. I had a quote yesterday for one and it was 21kusd plus shipping and tax from China. At that rate we would need to sell a minumum of 150 shredder kits locally to recoup the cost. Pre CCP virus days we may have been able to do that. however now, we are still trying to sell out the last batch of 20 shredder kits that was laser cut in February. We went from average 1 shredder a week to one in the last 2 months. Despite spending much more on advertising. With the lockdown here lasting several months, and even now 21 years old and younger on lockdown since March.

@Butte (PP Philippines) I meant that I would like to disrupt the cost one sees when outsourcing parts to a service. We have invested in one, and hope we can create a volume and value for people who find retail laser cutting services out of their price range.

And laser is required (ie not torch table) ? (i am not a machinist, so sorry if this is a dumb question lol)

we have a cnc plasma in the shop, but it wll not give the precision required for most of the v3 parts.

that makes sense

3:18 AM

can cnc milling of the parts be done reasonably, or does that not scale well/takes way too long? (edited)

milling is a totally different operation than laser or plasma. we seldom use milling on any parts fabrication. We do use Lathe work a lot however. Cheaper to outsource that one.

@TruthTeller @Jorge Auroville , Re sheetpress... I need a big press, am finishing brick oven using lpg for heating (adding biogas next). We have unreliable power here, so electric is not an option. Therefore we need unheated press. Not sure what you mean with pyramidic/concrete design.

hi anyone got link to built plan for the shredder?

Is 200rpm to much?

guys were does one find a 5.5 kw 3 phase motor

3:25 PM

at 2250 nm of torque at 50 rpm

3:27 PM

200 rpm depens on what u are shredding @Thydric

@Taire im shredding hdpe bottle caps and standerd pp stuff (around 2mm thic)

i whould not go higher then 100 rpms

3:30 PM

20-100 is about ideal

3:31 PM

if u go higher u risk the chance of stalling the motor and having the plastic fly out of the hopper

Ok ty

@minvayu Auroville , instead of a frankenstein made from metal beams (it's living after all), you could cast the press plates from concrete and/or other materials (ie: a layer of plaster to contain heat), this way you have also lot's more flatness. technically you would need just 2 such plates and a lifting mechanism (ropes & pulleys). the upper plate just needs to be really heavy (evtl. pyramidic

and thus keeps pressing when the plastic starts shrinks. this could be dirt cheap

Hello! someone knows how to program the pid controller for the injection machine? I put the desired temperature and it exceeds it by a lot, I already tried several settings but the same problem continues.

Pid as in temperature controller

@GeorgeFields08 ,

make sure it's well wired and your probe has good contact - also don't extend it's cable or such
run auto-tune / self tuning Let us know the brand and model, evtl. it's a known issue. The forum has lot's of troubleshooting tips as well

@TruthTeller thanks, let me try that, its a rex c100

@GeorgeFields08 you're welcome. let us know how it goes. looks like a good case to feed PP support content. RexC100 hasn't much to program or to setup, AutoTuning or setting manually PID params at best (https://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf). As alternative a complete 40$ Inkbird set on Amazon - works great - just the buttons and overall interface is a little clumsy. There are a number of variations of course (having more params), normally it should work out of the box, if not, it's rather cabling, probe, probe contact , etc...

Hi, Im planning to do kind of bowls by using materials as fruits, which machine should i build?

@davidor920 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/research/beyondplastic

@Taire I am running a PP V1 shredder. The motor is a 1 phase 230V AC 2880 rpm, it runs a 30:1 worm gear reduction box through a V-belt drive. The gear box runs shredder runs about 90 rpm via a shop-built flexible drive coupling. I hand feed the usual HDPE pre-cut bottles (up to 2mm) and HDPE bottle caps into a tall hopper. I feed at a rate so as not to stall the motor. I occasionally have to clear plastic that is not pregressing, after the cutters have come to a stop. I wear ear and eye protection because a few chips are ejected from the hopper.

9:05 AM

I am building an Injection Machine. See a post above. Today I found a pneumatic cylinder. Photos attached. These are the dimensions. Barrel bore 50.85 mm Piston (no seals) 50.32 mm Barrel OD 55.63 mm Barrel wall thickness 2.38 mm Stroke about 240 mm

9:07 AM

The rod is about 19 mm and has a slight bend centred about 100 mm from the piston. I can straighten that. 50 ton shop press.

what do u need tha cilinder for

12:25 PM

is that gonna be to push the plastic in the mold

Hello There, A quick question: ¿whats the recommended final RPM on the shredderer v4?? Thanks!

i use 60

2:58 PM

but 70 whould also work i am guessing

2:59 PM

seeing as my shredder seems on the slow side

@pepe_trueno @Taire The v4 Pro wants 15-25rpm. the Basic likes ~70

Is a 1.5HP motor running at ~90rpm okay for the shredder v2?

@PalmTrey This is a good tool for v2 modeling. https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/

5:34 PM

seems like you might want a little lower RPM, imo.

Thanks!

5:44 PM

What do people suggest for drawing more than 15A on a 115v outlet in the US? Like if I wanted to use a 2HP motor, but wanted to use a regular outlet? Is there a way I could wire the motor to plug into two outlets to draw ~230v?

1

That's probably a little hot for a standard 120VAC 20A circuit. Either smaller motor, a bigger breaker ~30A, or adding a standard 220 line of service at your main electrical box might be a safer and more efficient solution.

1

i use 60

@Taire @CitSciWorkshop Thanks!! yeap, I know that v4 pro says that use 15-25 but it sems really slow, and in other videos it looks a lot faster tahn that... thanks!!

it is

1:01 PM

25 is very slow

1:01 PM

25 gets used for metals

1:01 PM

plastic can go faster

1:02 PM

(if the motor is powerfill enough tho) (edited)

Hello, I want buy a motor for build shredder, and I want to know if this motor is ok : 230v 1500 rpm (with reductor 30) 0.65kw. Thanks !

whats the outgoing torque

3:32 PM

that should be atleast a 1000

3:33 PM

or around a 1000 (edited)

3:34 PM

i whould go for a slightly bigger motor maybe a 1.5 or 2.2 kw motor

here is the photo of the label on the engine

yea i whould get a bigger one

Okay. The reduction is 30, so the torque is higher, isn't that right?

yea

3:43 PM

thats true

3:44 PM

but from what i can see this is only a 0.18 kw motor

3:44 PM

and that whould give u a torque of:

3:44 PM

25.8 nm

3:44 PM

a motor with a kw of 0.65 whould give 93.1 nm

3:45 PM

and a motor with a power of 1.5 kw whould result in 214.9nm

3:45 PM

still on the low side but better then 25

3:46 PM

it whould mean it can jam on some thicker plastic

Alright I understand. Thank you for this information!

no problem (edited)

3:49 PM

glad i chould help

3:50 PM

the gear box is the right ratio

3:50 PM

it whould give a output rpm of 50

Ok, I think the motor shouldn't exceed a output rpm 70

yes

3:57 PM

corect

Thanks

np just ask when needed

plastic can go faster

@Taire thanks!

Oki

5:08 PM

Just so u guys/girls know

5:09 PM

I have a pp v2 shredder and a home made one the home made one turns at 120 rpm

5:09 PM

It's kind of similar to the shredder pro

5:09 PM

So the one with 2 sets of blades

5:09 PM

And it works awesome for plastic and aluminum

1

Anyone running a v1 shredder box with a 900 rpm motor? I wonder if its possible without reduction. My motor is 3.5 kW

8:32 PM

8:33 PM

it would look like this

8:33 PM

@LaurensDV , it wants 70 - 90 depending on the input. you could run it underwater to loose some RPMS though

Hello

8:47 AM

Does anyone have the names of the parts for the shredder Pro only? I have the drawings but i need to sort them out to the shredder parts only

8:52 AM

nevermind, i found them

@LaurensDV I I whould lose some rpms

9:51 AM

Bring it down to around 100 rpm

9:52 AM

It whould also mean u get more torque

yeah thats what i thought... and the torque is huge at 100 rpm

100 rpm is definitely a little to fast for bigger objects as found in households (shampoo bottles). you will have to plunge a lot. for small stuff or regrind flakes 100RPM is about ok

Yea

They didn't need any work after they came of the plasma cutter

lucky you!

Just a quick lick with a flap disk to remove the very small burr

Can I ask how much you paid for the set, and where ?

I made them my self

1:17 PM

The plate was 450 euro and the cutting only cost me around 90 ish euro

Great, thank you ! Is there any chance to see a picture of the blade's edges ?

Amh

1:42 PM

Yes

1:42 PM

That would bgg e on Monday

1:42 PM

I am sorta on vacation rn

great, thanks, I just interested how the hardox behaves with plasma cuts

Pretty muted the same as just normal ms

mh, our mild steel / stainless cuts (up to 18mm) came out always impeccable (laser worth 5M) - just not the hardox, waves everywhere, and up to 0.6mm off. we paid a little fortune for the cut, followed by massive work to justify the end-user price for this machine. (edited)

Yea we have just a very very cheap (20k)machine and it work fine

well, eager to see what you mean by 'fine'

Yea

3:26 PM

This is the machine

3:26 PM

Surprisingly capable

nice, my tests with hypertherm weren't exactly exciting, after 8+mm ...

4:56 PM

or what cutter you choose for that ? I guess 60A+ could do it

Me using 5mm 650 hardox

5:01 PM

And it cut that stuff fine

1

Hi everyone, I'm a student from Mauritius and we are now assigned to research and design about the plastic shredder pro.

8:26 AM

I was wondering if I can get some help

8:27 AM

Thanks for answering

@joHarrison Sure, this platform is for helping each other

Special question?

Indeed we are here to help

8:47 AM

Any specific questions

Hi, so im having some issues sourcing motor, I have found motors which are .5kW with gear boxes, or motors which are into the 15kW and above, is there any sumes I could use to see how the output would be affected by a gear box of the .5kW motor I found

@PalmTrey This is a good tool for v2 modeling. https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/

6:44 PM

This will calculate how much torque u will get

6:45 PM

Also plamtrey sry for the ping

Class thanks, whats the ideal torque we are looking for, cause that motor doesnt work but just so I know what to look for in future

6:59 PM

and what assumption re we making on the diameter of the shaft in that formula, to calculate the torque

It's for the shredder v2

7:51 PM

I have a shredder pro and the smaller one the small one I have a max of 1200bm

7:52 PM

And the pro has a max torque of 2300 nm

Results from the plastic HDPE hand mold experiments on a mold: We have been trying over the last year and half to hand mold plastic from the extrusion machine. We discovered that the plastic needs to be applied in small amounts of the heat and shrinkage will make cracks and warping. One alturnative we have not yet tried is adding fiberglass to the mix. We have added milled carbon fiber to a few batched but not enough to get a useful result.

@Butte (PP Philippines) Please consider that it´s very diffucult to recycle your products again after adding any kind of fibers...

has anybody got exeprinence getting the shredder parts cut by water jet over laser, is there a reason for the laser cutter prefence

U will get absolutely straight lines

11:49 AM

And angels

11:49 AM

I am making a metal shredder now

11:50 AM

It uses 40mm thick blades and that one needs to be water cut

11:50 AM

Or the Angel's of the inner hex whould not fit the bar

is that possiable a negative thing ?

12:01 PM

I did see in one of the viedos to sand down the edges of your lasered parts, but dont really understand why ? Would that have to be done more so with water jet cut ones

No non at all

12:22 PM

The sanding is to remove the tiny burr the laser or plasma cutter generates

12:22 PM

Water doesn't generate any

Hi, did anyone tried extrude or inject cable insulation (PE, polyethylene) ?

no

2:57 PM

i havent

Hi, did anyone tried extrude or inject cable insulation (PE, polyethylene) ?

@Deleted User I've received the answer from another user

Yes, it's possible with the extrusion. Thanks.

1

@Deleted User great stool. What is it's total weight?

@Butte (PP Philippines) Please consider that it´s very diffucult to recycle your products again after adding any kind of fibers... @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto my product is not for throw away. and i will recycle as i see fit

@TruthTeller#0285 hello, can you give me more detail about the extrusion screw please

does anybody have any info on the grade of steel which is acceptable for the shredder, or any advice on which would be more suitable, im currently looking at 304 grade, and they are asking if it requires to be brushed after. Not sure what they are really asking and what I should be asking, any help helps

Which band heater did I need for the Injection Maschine

@irishrail2 304 stainless should be suitable for shredder blades and bed knives. Brushing refers to improving the look of the parts. You won’t need that.

1

9:22 PM

^that’s what brushed metal looks like

9:25 PM

@SuperSkill You want to find a 35x45mm bandheater, 190-220w seems to work well.

Did it work with 280w band heater

@SuperSkill You can use larger band heaters, the issue is they are dimensionally larger. The smallest 280w band heater I can find is 42mm inner diameter. You need to match the diameter of the injection barrel to allow them to transfer heat

Does anyone has this dimension for me? I have already sanded my coins to solder them. (Sanded: 20,4mm) But now I'm planning a new mould in which I want to insert it. (edited)

@SuperSkill You can use larger band heaters, the issue is they are dimensionally larger. The smallest 280w band heater I can find is 42mm inner diameter. You need to match the diameter of the injection barrel to allow them to transfer heat

@Isometric you can make a adapter on the lathe for the bigger heaters like the commercial machines do. alternately, you can use 1.75 inch round bar stock and drill out on the lathe which is what we did for the last machine build to good results.

Sure that works, access to a lathe can be tricky/expensive though which is why I’d advise against it for someone who wants a plug and play solution

@Taire I have found a I 38mm ID cylinder about the same length. Yes, to make Injection Machine. The 50mm was going to be problematical because of the area.

Dear Community, We are a Green Office at the University of Utrecht, having students building an extruder-injector to make a small local recycling chain on campus. Though because of circumstances at the last moment we do not have a shredder anymore. So now we are looking for good alternatives to either buy a second hand or new Shredder Pro or get a good building kit. We have a budget of around 4000 euros, I have looked at the Map and emailed some people but because we don't have that much time I wanted to try it here as well. If you have any tips for a website that has reliable and most of the parts needed that would also be of help, we dont want to do it with Ali express for Sustainability reasons if we decide to make it ourselves.

Hi everyone, I am the student above who is given the task to study the shredder pro

@joHarrison ask and it's given

1

I want to talk about the design, it's particular from other design I found on the net...

8:42 PM

hi @Deleted User

8:46 PM

You see, the design is pretty much the same but on the shredder pro from precious plastic, they economize materials and sophistication without lacking performance. So what I want to ask is, is there any other way to improve the shredder pro in performance, security or even design that doesn't need much money?

@joHarrison I believe the @🤙v4-team and @Landry did a lot of work bringing the Pro to a CE standard as well. Hopefully they can comment soon.

2

@joHarrison I think performance and costs are not two goals you can reach at the same time, but sure you can increase the safety with custom hopper designs. The question is then if it runs that reliable, that user would never be tempted to bypass it. On my second hand shredder they have a longer hopper which can be removed. As soon as it is removed a saftey switch breaks the line to the motor. For sure there are more things to improve, if you iterate the design and post it here we can review it.

I'll do as you say, I will focus on safety first and post it here to know the opinions of others.

Hi there, anyone can make a mould for the product that you can see under the link below? If so what would be a price more or less? https://a360.co/3lA5XlG

Fusion

Share 2D and 3D design files and project files with anyone.

@marek kucharz Hey, here's a quick analysis of that part for mold making. The first issue comes from the knurling you've specified. Machining a mold to include those knurls would require more complicated machining processes, and drives your price up. An alternative could be a sandblasted finish on that part of the mold, which should give the part a rough texture at the grip spot. Secondly the threads create a undercut in the mould, which would require the use of a moveable insert to make demolding possible. I'd also recommend a coarser thread to increase strength. Depending on how many you're planning to make, it may be economical to thread the plastic parts after demolding, reducing the cost of the mold. Overall I'd estimate 600-800 $AUD per mold for each part. But it could end up being well above that. (edited)

@Isometric , 600 seems about right, in total! Please consider knurls, threads and polishing rather as standard post features, most material removal happens on the CNC indeed

(edited)

Sorry, that wasn't clear. I'm talking in $AUD

Thanks Guys, will get back to you ASAP when I get it into the final look. Price in AUD means it comes from Oz and that could cost a lot more then a mould as polish government puts its dirty hands on it when arriving

(edited)

@marek kucharz , you could do this pretty cheap with TIG welded shelf parts on a lathe :-). Basically it´s internal spur gears as in planetary drives and shaft lock nuts (good quality/finish) and of course normal threads. should come out quite good, and it´s in metal

(interesting read btw. https://www.basilius.com/blog/class-101-mold-breakdown, https://www.protolabs.com/resources/design-tips/molded-threads-and-how-to-design-them/) (edited)

Hey guys, im building the injection machine at this moment in time, is there any specific thickness that the pipe/barrel needs to be? Will Mild steel of 3mm thickness be okay?

8:40 PM

if anyone has any information please dm me. Would help a lot

Hi all, I am building my own version of the basic extruder. I have everything working, but my temperature readings are extremely off (reading low). The arrows in the picture show where my thermocouples are for the PID controllers. They are secured to the outside of the barrel using metal hose clamps. If I set the PIDs to 120C, I get completely molten PLA coming out of the end. 100C gets me to a somewhat solid extrusion. I was under the impression that I needed to be up around 180-200C. Any thoughts on what could be causing this or a way to test the accuracy? Thanks! (edited)

3

Sounds like an improper thermocouple installation. They really need to be immersed in what you're trying to measure. Also check the polarity of the thermocouple.

5:30 AM

https://www.omega.com/en-us/resources/thermocouple-installations

How to Mount Thermocouples Correctly?

When connecting thermocouples to other devices care needs to be taken to ensure that the proper polarity is maintained.

Thanks @Isometric. I think I have my thermocouple wires reversed. I have “red is positive” engrained in my head. In terms of thermocouples being fully immersed, would putting them under the heater bands work or would I have to embed them into the barrel and use some heat conductive epoxy to hold them in place? (edited)

Whenever I see them, they're attached by welding a nut to the barrel and threading into that. I'm assuming you don't have a welder which does make it a little tricky. Try reversing the polarity and hopefully that fixes your problem without having to come up with another mounting soultion

@ErkNinja Also check the type of thermocouple. If you have a J type thermocouple, and the PID controller is set to K type thermocouples (or vice versa), you'll get wrong readings too

Hi fellow builders. I'm from Toulouse/France and we started building the injection machine. We have difficulty to find the proper barrel/plunger at local metal suppliers (we've tried a handful already). Anyone in France with experience at what kind of place we can most likely find these parts?

@nicknick Hi plastic nick, Same problem here in France, did you find a solution yet ?

@/puppy 5mm + wall thickness is kind of standard here. 3mm could work ok with good heat insulation around the barrel.

@nicknick @Tulipe / Kylian DJ Not from france, but try searching for hydraulic tube. It’s seamless, precision finished on the inside and should be available in nearly every country

yup, on ebay you can get those too : https://www.ebay.de/itm/Prazisionsrohr-nahtlos-E235-C-D-8-29mm-Lange-frei-wahlbar-Stahlprazisionsrohr/283990690529?hash=item421f2a0ae1:g:jYwAAOSwRJ1ZnurV , just 5 times the price. I'd ping local builders on the map. Suppliers sell this usually only in large quantities. @Tulipe / Kylian DJ. Just the plunger needs usually some extra machining / sanding.

Präzisionsrohr nahtlos E235+C D. 8-29mm Länge frei wählbar Stahlp...

Finden Sie Top-Angebote für Präzisionsrohr nahtlos E235+C D. 8-29mm Länge frei wählbar Stahlpräzisionsrohr bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!

@PP-AntiCorruptionCommando i see. So mild steel of 38mm with 3mm thickness be fine? I'm quite new to all this so sorry if I sound silly and stupid. What heating insulations would I need?

@/puppy it looks like this :https://www.google.com/search?q=heat+insulation+materials+south+africa&sxsrf=ALeKk02fgD7cAuJs0bZH_pKnn33M1quIrA:1605357253970&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjn1_DmhYLtAhUoz4UKHTGUCPoQ_AUoAXoECBoQAw&biw=2133&bih=1041#imgrc=5BRQ8-IGWH0PnM. You can get this in most hardware supplier shops. For the injection you need material for 180DegC and above. It's often used for oven insulation as well. 38cm is a good height for the barrel, yup. Pack around 5-10 around the barrel and you should be fine.

1:42 PM

@/puppy - here some more insights : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/pipe-vs-tube-for-injector-barrel/#post-152727.

@Isometric @PP-AntiCorruptionCommando thanks ! This will help me find the right ones! @nicknick

Hi again! I'm a teacher, not at all a engineer, but a wannabe-engineer

So my questions might be weird, but I'm very glad that I can ask them here

. With my pupils I studied the mechanic of a parasol, that reminded me of something, but I forgot it, and now.... today I received the electronics for the injection machine, very excited I wanted to start to build it, un adventure. On the road today, I saw a broken parasol with some trash and I toke it, it would be great to recycle this into a injection machine. Did anyone here think of a #hack like this ? Or tried it ? I would like to know if it will simplify my construction or is it a stupid idea

@Tulipe / Kylian DJ - don't worry - stupidity is one of the key pillars on this very planet. That's a nice catch and great thinking, right on ! I guess those joint elements are made from plastic, very possible they brake soon as most plastic does under long sun exposure. You could possibly use them for a Aluminium re-cast ( cans are fine ). At last; that's great stuff to learn about levers & links ... (see more https://blog.rectorsquid.com/linkage-mechanism-designer-and-simulator/)

Another great outcome is the adjustable lever system, might be useful to optimize forces for various shot sizes

Really cool ! Makes you a good teacher. Much like of a 'I see injectors', instead of 'I see dead people' :-))) (edited)

dave

Linkage Mechanism Designer and Simulator

@PP-AntiCorruptionCommando thank you for all the help btw, it means a lot

@Tulipe / Kylian DJ we ended up ordering here: http://acier-detail-decoupe.fr/

Acier Détail Découpe

Boutique propulsée par PrestaShop

@/puppy - no biggy, here in PP project we usually try to leave no one behind, as much we can

. @nicknick , nice, would be great to know what plunger diameter you end up with:-)

hello guys

11:23 PM

does anyone knows where i could find a full mechanical design for plastic shredder? I mean CAD drawings stuff?

11:23 PM

I am a student and I am still have no idea where to start

@Joe ' https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

@nicknick @prelius#2567 Thanks! Curious too about dimensions. In the checkout I now have 35/27 and 27 plunger. I'll wait to order to see if I'm on the right way !

@prelius#2567 lol, I see injectors everywhere. Getting the people around me crazy when they see this "precious plastic twinkle" in my eyes

. I just wondered if this trashy thing will let me win some time to focus on all the other thousands of questions I have. If the framework is done, tubes on the way, I can open the wide scary world of moulds. For my school projet I will give this frame a chance. Another advantage is that's much more mobile, I have a "foot" at home and one at school

@Joe ' https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

@prelius#2567 Thanks

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

The day I find the money to build a schredder for our school, I already found the framework in the trash

It's very contagious this precious plastic, isn't it? Someone tried this bbq hack?

1

@Tulipe / Kylian DJ it truly is contagious

BBC frame is a good idea, but the material is propably thinner, so it may not be sturdy enough for the shredder base.

Basic fir wood isn't solid enough by the way : (it isn't broken, don't worry)

xd

we bought a reinforced epicea plank and sleepers (i think it's how we call the metal bars to reinforce sth ?), hopefully this time it will hold

idk if u can

4:17 PM

but cant u make the frame out of metal

4:17 PM

cus the forces here are quite high

4:17 PM

in fact

4:18 PM

if my shredder jams it flexes the whole frame

4:18 PM

and myne is a frame of metal

For now we have a really low budget, so we try to go for the cheapest option available... I saw some YT videos where they use the shredder on an bench table, so I think it should work this time

4:22 PM

+ we have tools to work with wood, not with metal so...

i see

4:35 PM

my shredder is alot bigger tho

Hi I'm new and want to build/buy a shredder but have some questions like how much power does a little shredder need ?

11:17 AM

Sorry by power I mean like amp and wattage

@Evil Trees You need about 2kW for the little shredder

(edited)

Never mind I'm out the box thinker found 250w version on YouTube

12:40 PM

Thanks though hadn't seen that yet when posted that

12:41 PM

I live on solar so 2.2kw not really possible for what I want to do lol

12:43 PM

I will try to post my findings here if I can figure it all out for anyone else in similar situation

If you want to shred <2mm it may should work;)

Ya just for bottles and things of the like

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

Ya that's how I got link for discord

12:45 PM

This is a awesome movement

maybe a manual powered or a bicycle powered?

Hi, has anyone tried to run the Shredder Pro and Extruder Pro with hydraulic motors and one central hydraulic pump?

A friend suggested it and I am trying to read up on how to chose the equivalent of hydraulic motor to elcetric motor to check for some prices...but I don't quite get it, yet, so I wonder if someone already has done the research...? Thanks, Nike

maybe a manual powered or a bicycle powered?

@acoira i dont think that bycicle is possible. However, with a long enough lever, maybe it is possible to do something. But it won't be as efficient as a motor

Depends on the quantities and type of plastic you want to shred. I don't mean a bicycle powering the actual shredder. Here you have a good example of a bicycle shredder from Kunststoffschmiede people https://youtu.be/lxz3nAcZquY @Thibault - rpmvalais.ch (edited)

Dave Hakkens Community

Make a bike powered plastic shredder #preciousplastic

Hi all I am working on creating a scaled down sheet press. Was wondering if anyone with a bit more experience with electronics could look over my schematic and tell me if i have made any mistakes?

small_sheet_press_electrical_schematics.pdf

175.91 KB

Hi! Is there anyone in or around DRC Congo in the group?

Hi every one ! Does any one know how I can make mold for plastic board for extrusion ? I want to produce board using the V2 extruder

@liamthreecreate We run active into the SSR instead of switching the neutral. Just check the outputs on the PID controller too! Shoot us a PM if you need. (edited)

@blk.wth oops yes i see that now, thanks so much!

@liamthreecreate So 2kW all up? How large are your heating plates? And what heating elements are you planning to use?

@michael_makes_ yes 2 kW. Using 500x500x10 plates and these heating elements https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heating-elements/8607006/. sized them based on Cp and heat up time? any pointers would be ace

Interested to see if 2kW will be enough - possible, but depends mostly on your arrangement, insulation effectiveness and load (how much metal and plastic you're heating up). Keep in mind, an iron or a kettle operates at around 3kW. Check out sheeponwheels, they did that size but theirs is more powerful: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/automated-sheet-press

Does anyone use granulator or industrial shredder instead of the PP shredders?

Hi, i'm working on an extruder and i was wondering. Is the (claw) coupling between the motor and screw really necessary. I understand in case of the shredder that it will need a way to absorb shocks. But the extruder???

@pukytuky i guess it's nit necessary, but it's simple to use,can be bought online and you still need to connect the screw to the motor output. Also it allows slight missalignment of axles, so it's basically dumbproof. (edited)

@magi SVK Thanks for your comment. I see! Thing is if i leave it out, its cutting a decent part of the cost, and the screw could possibly just be fitted directly in the motor or worm wheel.

@pukytuky that's true, mine was 80€

But! Any way you fasten the extruder itself to the frame, it moves a slight bit. That bit is enough to apply additional forces on the screw, bearings, etc. So more wear -> more likely to get something broken. Of course, it could work, but you'll need significantly more precise work when fastening the extruder (drilling exact holes, using pins or precise screws...). At least that's how i see it.

@magi SVK Haha thanks for your vision. Im planning of constructing the machine with lasercutted metal parts. So i think precision won't be a problem. But! heat will also have an effect on that.

Also, when molds are put on the extruder the tube will lower, but the screw will stay straight. Which may case some serious friction. I guess i need someone who actually build it without a coupling to be sure. Anyway i really appreciate your input!

Shredderer almoust ready! #Bolivia

3

Hi new here and this kind of stuff. For the extruder, why do we need such a high torque motor (109 nm on your page). I am trying to minimize costs. Thanks!

Hi, i'm working on an extruder and i was wondering. Is the (claw) coupling between the motor and screw really necessary. I understand in case of the shredder that it will need a way to absorb shocks. But the extruder???

@pukytuky You have to understand how the extruder works. The compression zone will generate a very large back-thrust that will in the end damage your gearbox if you don't protect it against it.

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland very valid point! Didn't think about the back-thrust force yet. I'm going to ask my supplier of the gearbox what they will advise. Thanks a lot!

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland Now that i'm thinking about it. The absobed force by the coupling is only efficient for shocks, not much so for constant force i suppose? Constant force will be transmitted through the coupling aswell. There might be a slight loss of it, but i think the gearbox will be able to deal with it. Please correct me if i'm wrong or if you have another idea. really appreciate it.

Hello everyone! I am building my own extruder. Its already assembled and only the motor and a mototr controller are missing. I was just wondering if anybody knows how much torque I need for a small extruder to work. Aswell I would like to connect the motor to a motor controller so I can change the rotational speed of the motor and adjust the flow of plastic that way. Thank you!

@Back von Ware its advised to use at least 109NM. You'll need a Variable Frequency drive (VFD) to change the speed. https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

3:11 PM

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland turns out the max. axial force on the gearbox is 780N. Which is a lot, but i have no idea how much force the screw produces

referring to that question, is the high torque needed related to the weight of the screw or other reasons?

@Terry Wong My opinion is that the high torque ensures that motor is not being overworked in terms of load > heat. A motor and gearbox producing less torque will have to run harder, especially if you are wanting to make larger parts.

@blk.wth thanks!

does anyone know where the docs for the non-pro plastic shredder are located? I can't find them anywhere on the build page

have no clue

11:48 AM

do have the cadfile if u need it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXgAGftr7DM

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Philippines Hydraulic injection molding machine

2

Anybody got molds for making buckets

2:43 PM

?

hello i am student form Mali, i am wondering if anyone have enough patience and time to coach me. i wish build shredder first

3:51 PM

i am not very good in english

Diabe which version?

4:04 PM

Guys we are condidering building the washing system despite having our doubts.

4:05 PM

We appreciate any photos if u have it built.

4:05 PM

#washing

@Diabe sure

4:06 PM

i am building one also and i whould not mind to help u

shredder pro

im building a shredder pro for school ( have build the smol one for myself (edited)

4:07 PM

i see

i wish build shredder to open my eco startup

4:10 PM

so i have download starterkit

4:12 PM

my first obstacle is the area I'm in. I am badly located to buy parts from abroad so I have to do with the means at hand.

i dont know how handy u are with tools

4:13 PM

but one of the things u most surtenly have to order are the bladesand stuff

4:14 PM

it is posible to make those but having them laser cut rly is the best option

4:14 PM

but for the most part a cheap welder and a angle grinder will do (edited)

4:15 PM

also if u have any questions feel free to dm

4:15 PM

see those quicker

Do you think that it is possible to order the bladesand stuff and have them laser cut before sending them to me?

4:22 PM

actually i have - Drill press

Welding machine
Belt Sander

should be yes

7:12 PM

the place were i order my steel has the option to have them cut it for you

do have the cadfile if u need it

@Taire That might be helpful. Where did you find it? I watched their video on how to put it together and they mention DXF's you can send off to get the steel parts laser cut, but the files are nowhere to be found (edited)

I found it on there website

10:43 PM

And I made a slight change to the design and I'm using that one

10:43 PM

But u should be able to just download it of website

10:44 PM

If not I I chould sent u it tomorrow

10:44 PM

Sorta late here

Should be on this page right? cuz it doesn't show up for me https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

10:44 PM

and no prob, thx

And I chould also give the version I'm building rn

10:47 PM

What cad software do u use

The only software I'm comfortable with is F360

I see

11:33 PM

That's oke cus my version is made in f360

11:34 PM

So th hat should work

11:34 PM

I'll just put the step file in here

1

as far as getting parts manufactured at a shop, I should be able to render what they need from it?

Yes

11:38 PM

My drawings are just the shredder part

11:38 PM

Not an frame

11:39 PM

The one from pp will have a frame drawn

that would be great, thanks!

alistar

Guys we are condidering building the washing system despite having our doubts.

We just use a low cost clothes washing machine

has anyone got/used a Siemens v20 Smart Access module? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2XSEyH6saQ

Professional Control Corp

Siemens V20 Smart Access Module Features

i do yes

5:54 PM

at work we use those drives

5:55 PM

do u have questions bout them?

Just a note, was unable to send a message to "Truth Teller" We will be waterjetting Ardox within the next week for a sample set up on imperial Stainless shaft. The rough surfaces should not matter a huge amount if the fit is right, but hence waterjet with Dynamic Head should be smooth surfaces...

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) Unfortunately that account and a few others with messages still up are from a user who is banned for repeated abuse. Same person behind Occupy PP

ok, thanks!

@pukytuky Thank you!

pukytuky

@PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland turns out the max. axial force on the gearbox is 780N. Which is a lot, but i have no idea how much force the screw produces

Hi there, the force is strong in the screw ^^ That's why the V4 hosts conical bearings into a casing that is screwed on the box, diverting the pressure from the axle. It all depends of your compression zone, plastic viscosity and so forth. I might have some charts somewhere. Just a bit busy at the moment. If you plan to go at fast rotations, I would not take the risk

Question: Has anyone -drafted/made/knows how works- an agglomerator / densifier for plastics?

Tulipe / Kylian DJ

Hi fellow builders. I'm from Toulouse/France and we started building the injection machine. We have difficulty to find the proper barrel/plunger at local metal suppliers (we've tried a handful already). Anyone in France with experience at what kind of place we can most likely find these parts?

@nicknick Hi plastic nick, Same problem here in France, did you find a solution yet ?

We was using the schedule 80 seamless tubing, but had a lot of problems when machining it, and getting proper sized heat bands. We ended up just buying steel round bar stock in 1.75 inch and machining the Outside down 2mm to 42mm standard heat band size and the inside we had drilled out with a 1 inch drill bit on the lathe. Our cost for machining was 70USD. While it is more than the pipe, we have had much less issues with mounting the hopper by welding to the thicker tube, and a more even heat.

PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland

Question: Has anyone -drafted/made/knows how works- an agglomerator / densifier for plastics?

re plastic densifier... Just NO. DO NOT DO IT. I had the experience of seeing the Philippines densifier machine showin in all the youtube videos. The end result was a horrible black gummy smelly mess. It smelled so bad we had to throw the samples away at a rest area on the expressway because it made the car smell. #dissappointed. That guy is the main reason why we build our own shredders and machines now.

3:29 AM

Re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s the Universe injection mold... a few ideas for simplification... 1 clamp the mold shut with pneumatic cylinder or electric actuator... 2 power the extrusion via SSR and oil extraction press or meat grinder, or gear motor like from a hoist. Hoist motor is not really great for long use in regular extrusion machines, however, with the addition of a cooling fan and low duty cycle, they could be a lower cost solution

SOTOP Recycling

Injection molding machine for recycling plastic

Butte (PP Philippines)

re plastic densifier... Just NO. DO NOT DO IT. I had the experience of seeing the Philippines densifier machine showin in all the youtube videos. The end result was a horrible black gummy smelly mess. It smelled so bad we had to throw the samples away at a rest area on the expressway because it made the car smell. #dissappointed. That guy is the main reason why we build our own shredders and machines now.

Yes but we actually need to densify fibres. I heard it is good for films too

Hello There, Does anyone have pictures, blue prints or any info on upgrades made on the basic injection machine?? I´m about to start building it and will like use that knoledge that some others may have adquiere ...

12:04 PM

Thanks!!

minvayu Auroville

@Kat I was the spectator who joined the discussion late. Thanks for having me. I'm now based in Auroville, India and we have a makerspace where we build machinery and recycle waste plastic from the beach. Started a plastic recycling business 30 years back in Ecuador, we built everything ourselves including a shredder, aglutinator/mixer, 2.5inch 20:1 extruders, automatic pullers, chillers, etc. I will be happy to give some input on our machine needs (using wind/solar/hand power) for use in areas with poor power infrastructure. Thanks for all the work!

Hi Jorge Wow it sounds like you have had some awesome experiences with plastics recycling and renewable energy! We are starting a new project in Canada and hope to prove and/or improve health, safety, and environment protocols for working with plastics. Our focus for pilot projects (after the HSE piece) will be with rural, remote, and Indigenous communities, and we will definitely be looking at utilizing renewable energy to run facilities. Can I invite to to have a discussion about being on our Speakers List? Starting in January 2020, I am working with a group of Environmental Sociology students at the University of Alberta to do zoom interviews with people who have experience in plastics recycling. It sounds like you could add a lot of knowledge, and I hope you agree to an interview. Please feel free to reach out to me via email at juleasterisk@gmail.com https://lakesideleader.com/local-group-hopes-to-start-plastic-re-manufacture-project/

Admin2017

Local group hopes to start plastic re-manufacture project | Lakesid...

Pearl Lorentzen Lakeside Leader Slave Laker Jule Asterisk has been interested in plastic since she was a child in the 1970s. With the Society of High Prairie Regional Environmental Action Committee (REAC), she is embarking on a five-year Plastics Re-manufacture Project to investigate how rural and remote communities can turn plastic waste into u...

1

Hey guys! Planning to build my small shredder machine. Unfortunately my local metal lasercutting place don't have all the needed thicknesses of hardox. What do you thinking of changing all 5mm parts to 6mm parts (and adjusting frame width to accept it)? Is there any particular reason for using both 5 and 6mm?

artantme

Hey guys! Planning to build my small shredder machine. Unfortunately my local metal lasercutting place don't have all the needed thicknesses of hardox. What do you thinking of changing all 5mm parts to 6mm parts (and adjusting frame width to accept it)? Is there any particular reason for using both 5 and 6mm?

You can do 5mm ring spacers and fixed blades and 6mm blades and small blades. The cumulative material thickness error adds up to around 2mm. You'll need to add a x2 2mm spacers at one end of the shredder box to allow the shaft to spin.

https://youtu.be/oas-fFnkzgA here is our heat shield video to cover the heaters ont he extrusion and injection machines to prevent electric shock and burns.

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Injection and Extrusion Machine Heat Shield How To

1

artantme

Hey guys! Planning to build my small shredder machine. Unfortunately my local metal lasercutting place don't have all the needed thicknesses of hardox. What do you thinking of changing all 5mm parts to 6mm parts (and adjusting frame width to accept it)? Is there any particular reason for using both 5 and 6mm?

I dont see any problem here

5:38 AM

It's just going to produce bigger flakes

blk.wth

You can do 5mm ring spacers and fixed blades and 6mm blades and small blades. The cumulative material thickness error adds up to around 2mm. You'll need to add a x2 2mm spacers at one end of the shredder box to allow the shaft to spin.

I'll try making everything 6mm, and assemble virtually in fusion. Don't want to add another thickness of material.

Taire

I dont see any problem here

Oh, cool, so it only affects the size of the chips. I guess i'm okay with 6mm chips..

I te might also need. Bit more torque

8:52 AM

Other then that

8:52 AM

Should be no problem

te? i will be running a 0.75 kw three phase motor through 1/50 nmrv reduction. I use it for my clay pugmill.

Ah

8:54 AM

It *

8:54 AM

Should work

8:54 AM

English is not my first language

8:55 AM

So j make mistakes sometimes hehe

8:56 AM

But yea I have made my "shredder pro" with blades that are 15mm thick and it works just fine

8:56 AM

Also made a og one

Taire

But yea I have made my "shredder pro" with blades that are 15mm thick and it works just fine

omg, mind sharing a photo? (edited)

I'm at work atm

8:58 AM

And work is at this point in England

8:58 AM

And it's at my home (edited)

artantme

I'll try making everything 6mm, and assemble virtually in fusion. Don't want to add another thickness of material.

Ohhh I understand. Yeah you'll need to make the box wider and lengthen the shaft. Good luck

Witch is in the Netherlands

8:59 AM

So if u chould remind me in like a week

Not in a hurry) I have a spare 2.2kw motor and a giant nmrv 110 reduction sitting in the garage, so maybe the big shredder is along the way too. Hello from Moscow

I'll make some pictures and sent those

1

8:59 AM

Helo

#washing FYI, the page https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/wash-plastic-sand-filter- has a mixup between sections 4 and 5, fotos, title and text should be corrected - following the feedback link brings me here

Hi guys.. We are working on a upcoming project here in the Philippines for around February. A total solar powered Precious Plastic system at a municipal waste center. Looking at 3kw of solar with our own design shredder, and a extrusion machine to make beams/roof tiles. Remote island. No shore power, no ro-ro ferry service,

3

1

2:16 AM

location https://goo.gl/maps/F6ydE9gKRysRs5AJ6

SK Barangay Marikaban Tingloy Batangas

Government office · Tingloy

2:16 AM

project funded by Rotary.

2:17 AM

If anyone in PH next year, looking for volunteers. We also host workaway.

2

Hi guys, I am building extruder pro. What kind of motor specifications are required?

7:20 AM

In short, which motor should be selected?/

what is the required rpm and torque for extruding PVC?/

no idea how this is possible, We have maxed out our extrusion machine at 6kilos per hour. this one claims 22.5 kilos per hour?? even the slightly bigger v4 screw from Robot Digg I doubt can do that much per hour. What is going on here?

2:08 AM

is my how to tutorial rejected? I see iiti still in moderation, but other tutorials published after mine are posted...

2:09 AM

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Will have a look today! :) (Yours is the latest how-to, the other ones have been uploaded earlier)

@Butte (PP Philippines) For context on the extruder post. The Extruder Pro can extrude 1 brick every 4min. Each brick weighs 1.5 kg, you can make 15 in an hour (60/4) and as a result that's 22.5kg an hour. Its even more if there is no mould on the end....but why would you want to just poop plastics?!

Butte (PP Philippines)

no idea how this is possible, We have maxed out our extrusion machine at 6kilos per hour. this one claims 22.5 kilos per hour?? even the slightly bigger v4 screw from Robot Digg I doubt can do that much per hour. What is going on here?

I had the same concerns but the reason is that the V4 goes at 200 RPM vs 40 for my V3

PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland

I had the same concerns but the reason is that the V4 goes at 200 RPM vs 40 for my V3

im running my v3 screw at 150rpm. at 200 rpm it does nto melt everything. from what I see the diameter is only 25mm more on v4 and about 100 mm longer.

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

@Butte (PP Philippines) For context on the extruder post. The Extruder Pro can extrude 1 brick every 4min. Each brick weighs 1.5 kg, you can make 15 in an hour (60/4) and as a result that's 22.5kg an hour. Its even more if there is no mould on the end....but why would you want to just poop plastics?!

we "poop" plastic cause we extrude into a heated oven until we have a 820 gram blob and then use the compression molder (6 tons) with a water cooled mold to press a plant pot. The molder can do that much plastic in 5 min, however thee extrusion machine is bottle neck now. Looking at build ing a two screw two barrel extrusion machine now.

Butte (PP Philippines)

we "poop" plastic cause we extrude into a heated oven until we have a 820 gram blob and then use the compression molder (6 tons) with a water cooled mold to press a plant pot. The molder can do that much plastic in 5 min, however thee extrusion machine is bottle neck now. Looking at build ing a two screw two barrel extrusion machine now.

Wow Nice, I experimented with that method too a little during V4. Its a great technique. I was watching your youtube videos yesterday actually. Shows real potential! I look forward to seeing more object created with it!

Butte (PP Philippines)

im running my v3 screw at 150rpm. at 200 rpm it does nto melt everything. from what I see the diameter is only 25mm more on v4 and about 100 mm longer.

I think my screw was different from original design, with maybe a stronger compression zone but I was achieving 6-8 kg /h at 40 RPM. Now it is gone in the extrusion paradise... I mean I will try to salvage it but a metal debris fell in the plastic shred without me noticing. I am actually puzzled by the geometry of V4 with its very long feed zone and its dimension of 30D. The feeding zone is massive. To increase the output I would personally go to larger single screw. Twin screws are really tricky but better for recycled plastic. Also for output, the size/quality of the shred can play a role I suppose.

Anyone have any insights as to why the Roto Mould machine was abandoned after V1? Curious about exploring that method myself.

Piers

We’ve been running a log splitter with our injection machine for a few months! We’ve got a video and how-to in the works with the details of the perfected process

we’ll try to get them uploaded ASAP!

For those who spotted our upgrade on IG this week, here is a video demonstrating our injection machine upgrade using a hydraulic log splitter. We’re aiming to post our full ‘how-to’ next week outlining the build. https://youtu.be/8CqJJLTXk5w

Precious Plastic Melbourne

Injection Mould Machine - Hydraulic Upgrade | Precious Plastic Melb...

6

Hi, is fiction factory here? I want to ask smth with sheetpress electrical diagram

Piers

For those who spotted our upgrade on IG this week, here is a video demonstrating our injection machine upgrade using a hydraulic log splitter. We’re aiming to post our full ‘how-to’ next week outlining the build. https://youtu.be/8CqJJLTXk5w

looking good. We should have one online Monday, and a second unit a week after that, whenever more heater bands arrive.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Hi guys.. We are working on a upcoming project here in the Philippines for around February. A total solar powered Precious Plastic system at a municipal waste center. Looking at 3kw of solar with our own design shredder, and a extrusion machine to make beams/roof tiles. Remote island. No shore power, no ro-ro ferry service,

I also have a solar installation. You can use a 3kW high voltage (same for grid tie) panels connected to a solar vfd drive. You run the motor directly from the vfd drive. I then use biogas/lpg oven to process the flakes and hand hydraulic press. Of course it would be cheaper to do a mechanically powered shredder and then the whole system is electricicty free...

Butte (PP Philippines)

we "poop" plastic cause we extrude into a heated oven until we have a 820 gram blob and then use the compression molder (6 tons) with a water cooled mold to press a plant pot. The molder can do that much plastic in 5 min, however thee extrusion machine is bottle neck now. Looking at build ing a two screw two barrel extrusion machine now.

I am also interested in a twin screw extruder setup, to mix hdpe/pp with powdered wood. Anybody build something like this?

Butte (PP Philippines)

looking good. We should have one online Monday, and a second unit a week after that, whenever more heater bands arrive.

Looking forward to seeing yours in action

minvayu Auroville

I also have a solar installation. You can use a 3kW high voltage (same for grid tie) panels connected to a solar vfd drive. You run the motor directly from the vfd drive. I then use biogas/lpg oven to process the flakes and hand hydraulic press. Of course it would be cheaper to do a mechanically powered shredder and then the whole system is electricicty free...

fuel delivery is very expensive to this island location. It has to be purchased, then transported on ferry boat to the island and then transported by motorcycle with sidecar over dirt roads. there is no ro-ro car access except as charter. The MRF(materials recovery facility) location is getting electricity but they are limited to 180 watts. Basically lights and a fan. Plastic is too expensive to transport off the island so the goal is to product building materials with the waste plastic.

Hi! I ordered these materials exactly like the dimensions in the manual, but the plunger doesn't go in! Do you have an idea what to do about it ?

is there a bur

12:06 PM

and or is the steel the exact dimentions u orderd

12:06 PM

there might also be a weld seem in the tube

There is no seem. I sandpapered both sides. Is oil a good idea to try?

12:45 PM

Thanks @Taire

Did you measure with a caliper?

this

@sonik no, we teachers have simple rulers

But is it a known problem to solve, or you ordered inside and plunger 26mm and it worked right away? It seemed strange to me, exactly the same dimensions, I would have taken 1 mm difference, but instead I took the exact dimensions like in the pp papers. I can contact the webshop, but I would like to avoid them saying "this could never work with the exact same dimension".

@Tulipe / Kylian DJ I'd say it's nothing special. The thing is, even with the same diameter in mm, there are tolerances in metalworks. So without a machining you may not be able to fit the plunger in. You can sand the whole length of rod by hand, but it'l take a lot of time. Or try to file the end of both parts into small cone,

Butte (PP Philippines)

fuel delivery is very expensive to this island location. It has to be purchased, then transported on ferry boat to the island and then transported by motorcycle with sidecar over dirt roads. there is no ro-ro car access except as charter. The MRF(materials recovery facility) location is getting electricity but they are limited to 180 watts. Basically lights and a fan. Plastic is too expensive to transport off the island so the goal is to product building materials with the waste plastic.

Are there cows? Manure is easy to generate into biogas. Here they use a big bag or plastic barrel to generate it and you can use it the same way as lpg

6:06 PM

A solar concentrator is being used here to produce steam at our community kitchen. We have not tested steam for heating the oven, but we may try next year. Our concentrator has been working for 25 years now, with almost no maintenance.

@magi SVK ok, thanks ! I can go on with this info!

@Tulipe / Kylian DJ The tube for the injector is seamless plumbing pipe which has a nominal bore of 1" which generally means it is 27mm. You can then use 26mm bright round steel and have plenty of clearance. I'd reorder some smaller diameter bar for the injector rod.

Or turn it down one mm

9:37 PM

But reordering is the way to go here tho

minvayu Auroville

Are there cows? Manure is easy to generate into biogas. Here they use a big bag or plastic barrel to generate it and you can use it the same way as lpg

no man, none of those things are practical. https://goo.gl/maps/St2krKKRh8PzxVER6 location link

Tingloy

Batangas, Philippines

1:47 AM

1, Biogas is too finicky and not even close to practical in the limited amount of time and budget to set up the site and train people. Second, Rotary has already granted the funds for solar. this is the second mini factory in the Philippines funded by Rotary that we are involved with. Last Philippines law mandates 100

1:47 AM

percent recycling so all plastic needs to have something done with it.

Hello everyone. I would like to be able to download the 3D models of the machines (skp) but I can only find the CAD files, did you know if they are available on the website?

We got a new mold in the pipeline... Plastic cabinet knobs.. for use with the hydraulic extrusion machine. first machine and mold of this series, this week. Second machine, no idea. maybe next week, whenever heater bands arrive. Seems to be a big shortage of brass heater bands from China lately as several of my past suppliers are now out of stock.

@blk.wth @Taire thanks ! I Will go for the sandpapered option, much cheaper and good exercise to keep my climbing muscles in shape during this lockdown

Upi see

12:45 PM

Well good luck

Any idea how much will cost to build the injection machine??

Tulipe / Kylian DJ

Hi! I ordered these materials exactly like the dimensions in the manual, but the plunger doesn't go in! Do you have an idea what to do about it ?

How much will cost to build it??

Hello! I'm picking up on a discarded unfinished project in a refugee camp that I'd love to get going. We've got a shredder and extruder. Buuut we got some problems. First is that the extruder keeps jamming and I'm assuming it's because the flakes are too big (15mm). Would that be fixed by simply getting a mesh with smaller holes or is it more a problem of the actual shreddy bit? Second is that when it doesn't jam, it comes out a dry dust from the extruder. I'm guessing that's because it could do with insulating? Thanks for any advice!

@pepe_trueno i think it depends on the country you live in. There is a global calculation in the precious plastic papers. Only the pipes and deliveries costs me 43 euros, but maybe you find them cheaper.

9:23 PM

@Taire dankjewel!!

Hey guys! I'm confused a little..

11:12 PM

Here i see 15 blades (from v2.1 shredder .zip) (edited)

11:13 PM

5*3 makes 15 main blades , but in the assembly video there are only 14 of them:

11:13 PM

11:15 PM

Are there some spare details? Or something changed from v2.0 to 2.1 in internal construction too? I'm asking, because i need to modify the blueprints, so i have only 6mm thickness parts...

Also is it worth building v2.1 at this moment at all?

artantme

5*3 makes 15 main blades , but in the assembly video there are only 14 of them:

This caught me off guard too. There are only 14 blades. You can do all parts as 6mm but you'll need to lenghten the shaft and widen the box to fit.

rufus

Hello! I'm picking up on a discarded unfinished project in a refugee camp that I'd love to get going. We've got a shredder and extruder. Buuut we got some problems. First is that the extruder keeps jamming and I'm assuming it's because the flakes are too big (15mm). Would that be fixed by simply getting a mesh with smaller holes or is it more a problem of the actual shreddy bit? Second is that when it doesn't jam, it comes out a dry dust from the extruder. I'm guessing that's because it could do with insulating? Thanks for any advice!

likely your heaters are not working, or using a thermoset plastic. also ideal shred size should be in the 6mm or smaller range.

artantme

Here i see 15 blades (from v2.1 shredder .zip) (edited)

We had that same unpleasant surprise also when we started building. there are 14 blade files and 15 blade files in the download pack and the version change was not documented. We ended up using the 15 blade version, and then upgraded the design to biggr shafting that is more easily available, 1/2 inch structural steel bolts instead of the thread rod, wheich then allowed us to use exact length 8 inch bolts for simpler assembly. We also welded in m14 stud bolts for the bearings which then eliminated the need that hard to use tapered head bolt which was also loose.

dodo

Hello everyone. I would like to be able to download the 3D models of the machines (skp) but I can only find the CAD files, did you know if they are available on the website?

step cad files are 3D model files. Sketchup can import it, however it will convert it to a parametric model which then makes things hard to manipulate.

whats up with this one army build 4.1 on github?

Tulipe / Kylian DJ

@Taire dankjewel!!

Geen problem

Butte (PP Philippines)

We had that same unpleasant surprise also when we started building. there are 14 blade files and 15 blade files in the download pack and the version change was not documented. We ended up using the 15 blade version, and then upgraded the design to biggr shafting that is more easily available, 1/2 inch structural steel bolts instead of the thread rod, wheich then allowed us to use exact length 8 inch bolts for simpler assembly. We also welded in m14 stud bolts for the bearings which then eliminated the need that hard to use tapered head bolt which was also loose.

Now i'm confused even more! There are 15 blades, but only 13 spacers and 13 static knives. According to my astronomic calculations 15 blades need to have 14 spacers.

@artantme I also have 14 knifes (edited)

1

8:23 AM

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Oh nice! What's the name of that sexy red soft coupling and where do i get this? UPD: found, its HRCP shaft coupling or smth similar (edited)

@artantme https://www.maedler.de/Article/60520702 (edited)

Artikel 60520702 - Kupplungsnabe RNT Größe 65 Ausführung AS für T...

Kupplungsnabe RNT Größe 65 Ausführung AS für Taper-Spannbuchse 2012, Werkstoff: Kupplungshälften: Grauguss GG25 (GJL-250), allseitig bearbeitet.

Butte (PP Philippines)

We had that same unpleasant surprise also when we started building. there are 14 blade files and 15 blade files in the download pack and the version change was not documented. We ended up using the 15 blade version, and then upgraded the design to biggr shafting that is more easily available, 1/2 inch structural steel bolts instead of the thread rod, wheich then allowed us to use exact length 8 inch bolts for simpler assembly. We also welded in m14 stud bolts for the bearings which then eliminated the need that hard to use tapered head bolt which was also loose.

Here in Russia, we don't usually have inches lying around, but thanks for explanation. I think i'll stay with 14blades+13 spacers design. Keep it classic, you know. Funny thing though – i will be using tank armor plate instead of Hardox, tovarishi.

9:01 AM

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

whats up with this one army build 4.1 on github?

Version 4.0 from github still has v2.0 shredder blueprints. Haven't found 4.1 or any other newer blueprints for small shredder. Sorry if that's clear for everyone but me, got lost in the versions

@artantme This should be the newest small shredder version: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21 Here is also a CAD-Model for that: https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/598887270636060694/685459398860341255

Nice thanks for the 3d model! How do we update this instruction, so it says that there is a spare knife?

artantme

Version 4.0 from github still has v2.0 shredder blueprints. Haven't found 4.1 or any other newer blueprints for small shredder. Sorry if that's clear for everyone but me, got lost in the versions

i just downloaded the one army 4.1 version yesterday.

Butte (PP Philippines)

likely your heaters are not working, or using a thermoset plastic. also ideal shred size should be in the 6mm or smaller range.

Great thank you! The shredder looks like one of these on these pictures, and I know that's not much to go on but is it likely that its a build problem or could it be fixed by simply changing the mesh (which has big holes) underneath the shredder for a mesh with smaller holes?

Butte (PP Philippines)

i just downloaded the one army 4.1 version yesterday.

Could you share the link please?

10:18 AM

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/archive/V4.1.zip This one? 4.1 is the version of the package. Shredder inside is still 2.0.

10:18 AM

Sorry for flooding, modified files for 6mm and got everything ready for cutting.

Will update sometime soon. (edited)

I have 4 used slow rotating gear drives (2,9 rpm) available if someone is interested. For free if you take care of the pickup/transport/customs (Trondheim - Norway). I can pack them properly on 1/2 pallet. Total weight around 60kg.

rufus

Great thank you! The shredder looks like one of these on these pictures, and I know that's not much to go on but is it likely that its a build problem or could it be fixed by simply changing the mesh (which has big holes) underneath the shredder for a mesh with smaller holes?

yes, you can swap out the mesh for a small one.

Thank you!

@artantme in mother Russia, tanks shreds even plastics. What steel is it tho? I'm curious.

I am good at 3D modeling in Blender and can generate .obj files easily but they are not engineered. When I opened up AutoCAD and a free CAD program I didn’t understand them or how to make anything, although I could navigate and rotate in the viewing space. Is this because they are parametric? Will my 3D modeling skills be helpful or is it like learning a whole different skill?

pretty mutch totaly diferend

@pyro Very different. In CAD everything work by defining length, constraints and parameters. In Blender, it's more "organic", you play with the geometry scale, vertices, shape,... Think a bit like the modifiers, and how you would do things step by step : For example using the solidify/skin modifier to "extrude" the shape. Or the bevel modifier to... bevel. That, but even more refined/precise. CAD is basically technical drawing in 3D : You start by sketching out the dimensions, and then you extrude, add holes, curves, bevel, etc. As someone who do both (for different reasons), being able to see in 3D in your "head" helps in both cases, but the usage is different. When you're creating with Blender you're in the mind of an artist, when you're designing with a CAD program you're in the mind of an engineer. (edited)

that helps a lot, thank you

Hi where could i find the Shredder pro drains

@pyro I wouldn't sell your skills short, I'm sure you can relate them to CAD design with engineering in mind, but it is just as detailed as @Ley Klussyn says. Setting up for metric in Blender might help start to bridge you into other programs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9xnu0YgXag&ab_channel=DigitalExposureTV

DigitalExposureTV

(Blender Tutorial) How to set Blender to Metric units

1

pyro

I am good at 3D modeling in Blender and can generate .obj files easily but they are not engineered. When I opened up AutoCAD and a free CAD program I didn’t understand them or how to make anything, although I could navigate and rotate in the viewing space. Is this because they are parametric? Will my 3D modeling skills be helpful or is it like learning a whole different skill?

there is a huge difference doing parametric modeling vs solid models. Blender is a parametric designw which lends itself to complex organic surfaces, however it is facets, not a editable file when you open it in most proper CAD programs. OBJ files are the last step for a lot of cad programs, not the first design step when it comes to actual making things.

1

Tulipe / Kylian DJ

@pepe_trueno i think it depends on the country you live in. There is a global calculation in the precious plastic papers. Only the pipes and deliveries costs me 43 euros, but maybe you find them cheaper.

Well, I looking to do it with the same person that build the shreddered pro(cost wasy 2700US$ with motor and reduktor) but his asking 800US Dollars for the injection machine and without the electric parts... I believe its too much... he says that the metal pipes for the injection part is special and costs about 200$.

Bouroncle

Hi where could i find the Shredder pro drains

What drains do you mean? If you search for the building files go here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download Shredder pro files are in the complete download and in "Shredder Workspace"

Hi! I am working on my own extruder design and wanted to ask if there were some calculations performed regarding the maximum pressure in extrusion PRO? I am a little concerned about the results of my calculations (safety of the barrel mostly) and I'm looking for some reference point. Cheers!

Hello! For the last year we've been developing the Shredder Pro in US Imperial units for compatibility to domestic material. We're pretty happy with the results and are ready to start collecting our works into a form that we can publish for the PP community, and we are still working on that large task. If people are interested in reviewing our work and helping us get it publication ready, please fill out our form here: https://bit.ly/USShredderProBetaDev (edited)

Shredder Pro Imperial Beta

Enter your name and information to sign up for the beta.

2

just joined. hello ..heres what im working on ... $20 blade made from threaded pipe flanges welded to threaded pipe.. work in progress

4

Hey any experience with extruding large beams with v3 or v4 machines? I’m thinking fence post type material... let me know what you know in this area!

To build the shredder 2.1, do you really need a full sheet of 3mm, 5mm and 6mm to do your laserfiles? Kindly respond promptly.

second life plastics

just joined. hello ..heres what im working on ... $20 blade made from threaded pipe flanges welded to threaded pipe.. work in progress

This is super clever, how did you do the threaded pipe?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbvTop3F_Jw see here

Second Life Plastics

Plastic Shredder Project - Off the shelf DIY Cheap -er

4

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

I’ll be interested to watch your progress

5:25 PM

Seems like the US has such a hard time with the shredder files from PP... or maybe it’s just me

Cool. Do you have any issue with the blades moving around or did you weld them in place?

Hey I can't get the files to work to send to a local shop to build shredder can anyone give me a hand ??

9:53 PM

P.s. I'm in the U.S.

@Evil Trees Which type, pro or basic?

Basic

@CitSciWorkshop basic

Evil Trees

@CitSciWorkshop basic

Do you need files or help troubleshooting the ones you have?

Did u pull message?

11:28 PM

I need whatever I need to hand fab. Shop to make the basic build shredder I guess that's blueprints and if possible cnc program I'm learning as I go worked in a plastic shop yrs back and want start one we did inject molds

It's not letting me see your messages just says time and shows a pencil on the left

Hello from Puerto Rico! ✋

✋

Would anyone happen to know where we can get some Machine Safety Guidelines?

Plastic Paradigm

Seems like the US has such a hard time with the shredder files from PP... or maybe it’s just me

lack of available metric metals and premium cost is a setback. Took a while to adjust files but we've got a pro in US equivalents gathering documentation now

2

Solar power, nice

so I am wondering, is anyone doing a continous extrusion thru a die? like the beams? Possible to make a interlocking brick that is extruded thru a die vs the individual mold?

5:37 AM

also, i think I have come up with a interesting product for plastic... Beehive parts...

There's lots of cool beehive stuff being worked on up on wikifactory.com - u might wanna see if some of those projects need any molded parts

1

@Butte (PP Philippines) I haven't seen anyone do it yet. We tried experimenting with continuous extrusion during V4, but weren't able to do it successfully

I have done it for stripes (I am not the only one I think), working on other stuff hopefully ready this spring... Depending on how the viral situation unfolds

Hello, I live on a farm in the USA. Are there any down sides to using a tractor to power the plastic shredder? The k.W would amount to about 24 k.W. or around 32 hp.

12:59 AM

Has anyone ever made the plastic shredder as a tractor attachment?

@seventwentyeight emissions perhaps.

yea that sounds smoky, modern tractors might be better though (edited)

FYI a little trick with workingwith your mild steel parts to prevent rust. We have started to sand or wire brush our parts (although a muratic acid etch will work too) to get a surface that is clean and free of mill scale, most fingerprints and grease. We use turco rust converter although most rust converters are the same stuff. We cut a small paint brush to have short bristles, although again a old toothbrush will work also. We continiously brush the steel with the converter, using rubber gloves. After a few min we wipe off the liquid and rub any streak lines from frips or runs. the key is to brush a even finish. second coat we continuously brush until we get a nice even grey finish. this is called parkerizing. we wipe the metal dry. we then wipe a thin coat of grease on the part. You are left with a grey colored surface with a slightly waxy finish that is resistant to rust. I have not tested outside, but indoors and in high humidity here in the tropics, my parts do not rust.

2

11:04 AM

We have a set of steel molds turned on the lathe that we have treated this way. It keeps them nice, and we do not have to use expensive stainless steel to make the mold.

2

seventwentyeight

Has anyone ever made the plastic shredder as a tractor attachment?

You probably need another design of shredder or a granulator with such amount of power

@Butte (PP Philippines) I designed some open die extrusion molds, but never got around to machining them due to lack of access to an extruder. That being said I did plenty of research into extruding successfully so I can share some tips. Ideally you want the extruded shape to be pulled out of the die at a constant speed. Building a stepper driven set of adjustable pulleys would likely work for this. The plastic also needs to be cooled quickly apon leaving the die to avoid surface defects. Commercially they use a trough of chilled water to do this, but I’ve seen some successful projects using an aquarium pump or similar to drip feed the extrusion.

so i ordered aluminum parts instead of steel. I am not sure exactly how I came to the impression that I needed aluminum, but I thought I had read it. Anyway now I have these alluminum laser cut parts, and I am guessing that while I could probably build the shredder, it would not last too long. is there any treatment that I could put the alluminum through to make it worth my while?

@Deleted User not really i guess. Even if it was dural, with any surface treatment you just don't get the mechanical properties of steel. It could work with thin plastics perhaps, but still the blades will go dull quickly.

Anyone has tried to cut/grind the blades with a few degrees cutting angle? I don't know if it would be useful, but it could reduce the resistance of plastic when shredding (given only one cutting edge per blade).

@Butte (PP Philippines) - I think you will need special plastics for that. Extrusion dies are rather hard to make - more likely 5 axis CNC (3 segments) and EDM machining. PVC seems a good fit - if you can hold the fumes,... Being able to make screw tips helps a lot too (4th axis / indexer and manual mill). Good luck

(edited)

9:28 PM

@magi SVK - yes, as with metals, there are a number of angles to be considered. The knife´s cutting edge should be around 10-15 Degree twisted and around 1.3mm cutting edge width - goes best with a round file. Doesn´t make much difference in v3 except there is less wear (stainless). Lowering the cutting circumference by 1.5 cm increases overall performance which also needs less power. I will have to upload that too

. I have still 3 sets with 3cm less cutting circumference if anyone wants it, great for bicycle or hand shredders. (edited)

1

Isometric

@Butte (PP Philippines) I designed some open die extrusion molds, but never got around to machining them due to lack of access to an extruder. That being said I did plenty of research into extruding successfully so I can share some tips. Ideally you want the extruded shape to be pulled out of the die at a constant speed. Building a stepper driven set of adjustable pulleys would likely work for this. The plastic also needs to be cooled quickly apon leaving the die to avoid surface defects. Commercially they use a trough of chilled water to do this, but I’ve seen some successful projects using an aquarium pump or similar to drip feed the extrusion.

we built a heat exchanger for our liquid cooled compression molder... 1/2 hp water pump, recycled hdpe drum, angle bar frame, exhaust fan and automotive oil cooling radiator. if i would do again, maybe use a car radiator instead of the oil cooler.

TruthTeller

@Butte (PP Philippines) - I think you will need special plastics for that. Extrusion dies are rather hard to make - more likely 5 axis CNC (3 segments) and EDM machining. PVC seems a good fit - if you can hold the fumes,... Being able to make screw tips helps a lot too (4th axis / indexer and manual mill). Good luck

(edited)

i have a guy who volunteered a pipe die to experiment with.

pipes seem a great idea to start with, yep

Anyone knows for how long I can keep running an extrusion machine? Does it need a cool down period between hours or something?

we may not have data on it's "upper limit" yet? I honestly don't know. I think "Downtime" or "Lost Machine Hours" would be good search terms (in english at least) for any research you do. Also i THINK this is kind of determined by data gathered once a product has been in use for a few years, or tested in-the company's development If you can take the risk, a "torture test" of sorts where you run it, until it stops/breaks may be neat do it f o r t h e d a t a lol

8:48 PM

Either way did that help @Kathadarova ?

Hi, I'm struggling to find a used 2.2kw 70RPM motor for my Shredder in the UK. Does anyone know where I can find one? I've found this in Germany but not sure if 3.9kw is too powerful: https://www.machineseeker.co.uk/lenze-mdfkars080-22/i-2529570

▷ Used Servomotor 3.9 kW 70 Rpm Lenze MDFKARS080-22 for sale - Mach...

Servomotor 3.9 kW 70 Rpm Lenze MDFKARS080-22 – Zustand: Used - Price: 400 EUR - Machines offered at Machineseeker

@jhgreenbarrel have you tried looking for a motor with higher RPM and adding a gearbox/any kind of gear?

Eric Lotze

Either way did that help @Kathadarova ?

Actually yes, thank you lol

magi SVK

@jhgreenbarrel have you tried looking for a motor with higher RPM and adding a gearbox/any kind of gear?

Hi Magi, I don't know how I'd do that - I have zero engineering skills!

no problem, glad i could help!

@jhgreenbarrel thing is, you actually don't need motor with low rpm, which you can't find. Instead look for almost any motor with power output you need, i guess there are quite a lot of motors with 1.5-3.0kW and about 1400 RPM. When you find it, you'll need to either buy a fitting gearbox or a pulley/chain RPM reduction. Do you know anyone who could help you with it? It can be tricky. I mean, here on discord we can help you pick the right parts, but you'll still need a help putting them together.

@magi SVK OK that's good to know. I have an engineer who is going to build me the Shredder, so I will ask him if he is able to fit the gearbox/pulley chain to a 2.2kw motor with higher RPM. Thanks very much for the advice.

@magi SVK there's this one on eBay but it doesn't give much info: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123727388778

GEARED MOTOR. MOTOVARIO 2.2KW GEARED MOTOR.

THIS SALE IS FOR A MOTOVARIO 2.2KW GEARED MOTOR. WITH B103 GEAR SERIES. WE CAN SEND ON A SMALL PALLET TO LOCATIONS IN THE UK. THE CARRIAGE COST WILL DEPEND ON YOUR LOCATION. FROM 0.37KW TO 7.5KW.

@jhgreenbarrel i'm typing a message.

@Kathadarova - the only limitations I know of are the heatbands and the motors - both have their specs (usually overrated) but motor wise, don't go over 60Degc, and cheap heatbands (below 100e a piece) don't like running over 5-10 hours non stop. Then there is the screw (not wood auger) and barrel but it's below 800 Degc, nothing to be afraid of, except plastic wears out mild and other steels relative fast, eg: non chrome nitride plated

(edited)

1

shredder pro... 1:60 7.5 hp motor?

2:11 AM

client looking to shred big solid chunks of HDPE from his extrusion machine.

2:11 AM

also possible to maybe make the teeth smaller to handle something bigger?

2:17 AM

also thinking the housing modified to 12mm plate instead of all that thin stuff lasered and welded together to lower parts count

2:17 AM

for the frame

TruthTeller

@Kathadarova - the only limitations I know of are the heatbands and the motors - both have their specs (usually overrated) but motor wise, don't go over 60Degc, and cheap heatbands (below 100e a piece) don't like running over 5-10 hours non stop. Then there is the screw (not wood auger) and barrel but it's below 800 Degc, nothing to be afraid of, except plastic wears out mild and other steels relative fast, eg: non chrome nitride plated

(edited)

cheap stainless bands dont last long,

3:12 AM

we have switched to using the 42mm diameter 360 watt x 120v bands (putting two in series for 220v) with much better results. We drill out 4000 series steel shafting for our barrels. it gives better results and looking at making some brass collars to use the larger band heaters.

1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpIRCmk2cRU

AndysMachines

DIY automatic injection moulding machine finished

4

@Butte (PP Philippines) - yeah. There are good ceramic heatbands on aliexpress, same price as the European brass heaters. With good insulation they oscillated very little. Those cheap 5$ heatbands however seem ok for occasional use. You could consider those as consumables though. Btw. more sophisticated PIDs have 'heater burnout detection' (https://assets.omron.eu/downloads/manual/en/v1/h174_e5_c_users_manual_en.pdf : page 147) - was wondering how to make this as default feature.

Beam molds for sale! $250 plus shipping

@Butte (PP Philippines) - wasn't that your idea ? I was wondering whether face milling will be enough for beams; may be turning some cone on could be better

Hey all, I am having an issue with my extruder and hoping someone can help me troubleshoot. The short of it is that the estrusion screw keeps pushing out the back of the machine and I have busted two bearings from the presure. The first was a human error (I am brand new to this extrusion thing): I got the machine up to temp but didnt wait long enough to melt residual plastic before turning the motor on

Since then though I have been super careful, and everything was going great for a while, until suddenly plastic stopped extruding and I heard a crack (bearing #2) then looked to see that the screw had pushed out the backside agian. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I have a third bearing mounted and the screw kept pushing out. Thought about drilling shallow holes in the end of the shaft to sink the tightening bolts on the bearing for a better grip but thinking that the screw pushing out is actually a symptom and this would just result in more broken bearings. My fear is that the extrusion screw is bent or somting and its causing too much resistance inside the barrel...? Anyone else have this problem? Potential solutions? Any advise would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

@Poised2Pogo it sounded like the nozzle is blocked somehow. Also, are your heaters working? Are they close enough to the nozzle? If the screw was bent, you'd notice vibrations. Can you check if the barrel is straight?

magi SVK

@Poised2Pogo it sounded like the nozzle is blocked somehow. Also, are your heaters working? Are they close enough to the nozzle? If the screw was bent, you'd notice vibrations. Can you check if the barrel is straight?

Ok, I will have to check next time Im in the shop (working from home today) The heater at the nozzle is definitely working, a little plastic will ooze out the tip before I turn the motor on. That said, its possible that one of the other band heaters might be disconnected or faulty; the heat sensors are at opposite ends of the barrel so if something in the middle wasn't up to temp, it might not be super apparent. I will check the barrel too! Thanks for a couple leads! Ultimately I would like to try and do some short beams and such and I was pretty disappointed to run into this problem before even adding the extra pressure of a mold!

@Poised2Pogo Can you show us how your bearings are mounted, and what types you are using?

TruthTeller

@Butte (PP Philippines) - yeah. There are good ceramic heatbands on aliexpress, same price as the European brass heaters. With good insulation they oscillated very little. Those cheap 5$ heatbands however seem ok for occasional use. You could consider those as consumables though. Btw. more sophisticated PIDs have 'heater burnout detection' (https://assets.omron.eu/downloads/manual/en/v1/h174_e5_c_users_manual_en.pdf : page 147) - was wondering how to make this as default feature.

the industrial extrusion machines I see locally use amp meters to detect burn out. I was thinking that a overall amp/watt hour meter like used on solar systems would work also. I recently got one for the shop and it was 12 dollars. We insulate with that basalt muffler wrap. tried the ceramic blanket but it is more fragile.

Poised2Pogo

Hey all, I am having an issue with my extruder and hoping someone can help me troubleshoot. The short of it is that the estrusion screw keeps pushing out the back of the machine and I have busted two bearings from the presure. The first was a human error (I am brand new to this extrusion thing): I got the machine up to temp but didnt wait long enough to melt residual plastic before turning the motor on

Since then though I have been super careful, and everything was going great for a while, until suddenly plastic stopped extruding and I heard a crack (bearing #2) then looked to see that the screw had pushed out the backside agian. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I have a third bearing mounted and the screw kept pushing out. Thought about drilling shallow holes in the end of the shaft to sink the tightening bolts on the bearing for a better grip but thinking that the screw pushing out is actually a symptom and this would just result in more broken bearings. My fear is that the extrusion screw is bent or somting and its causing too much resistance inside the barrel...? Anyone else have this problem? Potential solutions? Any advise would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!

you need a thrust bearing for the back force, yes the screws will push back hard. We had that issue on one machine, but then when we changed the design to 3 pillow block bearings the pushback on the screw was not enough to overcome the bearings although likely it will shorten the life of the bearings which are a couple dollar part.

btw.. i got client asking bout shredding fishing net... no idea what to tell them... i dont think 5hp is even near the power needed

Isometric

@Poised2Pogo Can you show us how your bearings are mounted, and what types you are using?

I can snap a photo tomorrow when I get back to the shop but here is a screen shot of the bearing I orded off amazon.

Isometric

@Poised2Pogo Can you show us how your bearings are mounted, and what types you are using?

Basically just took the model number off the bearing that came on the machine and this is what I found first. I figured since the orriginal one was broken due to human error, then what the builder put on there should be sufficient...

@Butte (PP Philippines) thicker walls, done...

4:13 AM

3

1

Hey people, you might have seen it, but we're making little Precious Plastic Awards

With the categories

Best Product
Best Machine Hack
Best How-to Make sure we can find you under the hashtags / tags

#preciousplastic #preciousplasticawards2020 @realpreciousplastic We'll start selecting from 15th Dec, and the winners will be posted end of december. Looking forward to see your stuff!

1

magi SVK

@Poised2Pogo it sounded like the nozzle is blocked somehow. Also, are your heaters working? Are they close enough to the nozzle? If the screw was bent, you'd notice vibrations. Can you check if the barrel is straight?

Ok back in the shop: Just checked all the heaters and they are definitely working, also barrel looks straight as far as I can tell. Here is a shot of how the heaters are spaced

IMG_2355.HEIC

1.29 MB

Butte (PP Philippines)

you need a thrust bearing for the back force, yes the screws will push back hard. We had that issue on one machine, but then when we changed the design to 3 pillow block bearings the pushback on the screw was not enough to overcome the bearings although likely it will shorten the life of the bearings which are a couple dollar part.

Hey I got a shot of the bearings that I have been using. Do you think I need a different model? Were you saying that you tripled these up somehow?

IMG_2356.HEIC

1.08 MB

Waterjet cutting 1/8" metal sheet for the hopper and sieve tray.

1:26 AM

Sure we have a roller for that waterjet was to cut out the parts...

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

for some reason thats how my phone talks to my computer I guess

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Hmm, I will try to work around... Probably should just get the app on my phone!

yup used to work on the big tools, 50 Ton Dies (weight) I know a thing or two about stamping and forming and yes could do that with a press but we have a roller

(edited)

1:33 AM

how close do you guys like to get to the blades with the hole plate, the design shows about 3mm gap, have you tried to go closer to see if you get a cutting action? (edited)

1:34 AM

haha, OK.

Poised2Pogo

Ok back in the shop: Just checked all the heaters and they are definitely working, also barrel looks straight as far as I can tell. Here is a shot of how the heaters are spaced

Isometric

@Poised2Pogo Can you show us how your bearings are mounted, and what types you are using?

Here is a shot of the bearing

1

Coud use a thicker machined washer if you want to beef it up? (edited)

@Poised2Pogo What does the other side of the gear reducer look like, where that axle inserts?

CitSciWorkshop

@Poised2Pogo What does the other side of the gear reducer look like, where that axle inserts?

This is the other side...

CitSciWorkshop

@Poised2Pogo What does the other side of the gear reducer look like, where that axle inserts?

Overall machine... it’s a trimmed down desktop version, but has the upgraded extrusion screw

1

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Honestly I’m not sure... We didn’t build this personally, just trying to fix it :/

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

It’s just been pushing the extrusion screw out the back. Broke a couple bearings which I replaced

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Honestly the first bearing that blew was a human error (brought the temp up but didn’t wait long enough before turning the motor on)

I would suggest something like a stronger bearing (not the cast pillow blocks) and a stop collar or plate.

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Now it keeps pushing the screw out. I thought about drilling small divits into the shaft but thinking that might not help if the screw pushing out is actually a symptom of something else ... Lisa worried it might be bent or something

CitSciWorkshop

I would suggest something like a stronger bearing (not the cast pillow blocks) and a stop collar or plate.

Any recommendations on bearings? I just looked up the product code for the first one that had come with the machine

That round hub in front should be containing something like another bearing or constraint. Hard to tell really.

2:46 AM

@Poised2Pogo what is the cracking sound coming from. Can we see a broken one?

CitSciWorkshop

@Poised2Pogo what is the cracking sound coming from. Can we see a broken one?

The one on the right was the first one, the one on the left was the second... just has a crack

Looks like the cast iron cant take the force. It isn't really meant to take much along the axis though.

2:53 AM

I'd try a stainless equivalent of the pillow block, and add a collar to the other side for a start, @Poised2Pogo

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

I will reach@out to the builder and see if I can get some feedback... or a diagram of his assembly.

1

CitSciWorkshop

I'd try a stainless equivalent of the pillow block, and add a collar to the other side for a start, @Poised2Pogo

Ok, I will look into the stainless version and replace what I have here... also the collar. Thanks for the advise!

Happy to help. Is that an FL205 or 6?

3:01 AM

^not wrong, it's already fully constrained by the reducer hollow shaft.

CitSciWorkshop

Happy to help. Is that an FL205 or 6?

FL 205

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Hmm, well the plot thickens: I’ve been tweaking around a bit after tightening things up and the screw didn’t push out but also didn’t seem to actually feed the pellets? Just a trickle of plastic out the tip and what I had in the hopper just cycled around like there is some obstruction. Also, I can hear a slight scraping sound and it looks like on the back side there was a bit of womble. So, I took the bearing off the back and let the screw push out a ways to take a look. Is this typical? Or some kind of retrofit? I thought the screw would be one solid shaft

Poised2Pogo

Hmm, well the plot thickens: I’ve been tweaking around a bit after tightening things up and the screw didn’t push out but also didn’t seem to actually feed the pellets? Just a trickle of plastic out the tip and what I had in the hopper just cycled around like there is some obstruction. Also, I can hear a slight scraping sound and it looks like on the back side there was a bit of womble. So, I took the bearing off the back and let the screw push out a ways to take a look. Is this typical? Or some kind of retrofit? I thought the screw would be one solid shaft

Poised2Pogo

Hmm, well the plot thickens: I’ve been tweaking around a bit after tightening things up and the screw didn’t push out but also didn’t seem to actually feed the pellets? Just a trickle of plastic out the tip and what I had in the hopper just cycled around like there is some obstruction. Also, I can hear a slight scraping sound and it looks like on the back side there was a bit of womble. So, I took the bearing off the back and let the screw push out a ways to take a look. Is this typical? Or some kind of retrofit? I thought the screw would be one solid shaft

Not sure this is causing the problem but also not sure what purpose this would serve. Also, this end piece isn’t a very tight fit so it jiggles a bit (probably that womble I noticed)

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Don’t have what’s app installed at the moment but I get get it... just the normal message app?

oof, be careful

CitSciWorkshop

oof, be careful

??

Butte (PP Philippines)

Re: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9IbetsLB4&t=2s the Universe injection mold... a few ideas for simplification... 1 clamp the mold shut with pneumatic cylinder or electric actuator... 2 power the extrusion via SSR and oil extraction press or meat grinder, or gear motor like from a hoist. Hoist motor is not really great for long use in regular extrusion machines, however, with the addition of a cooling fan and low duty cycle, they could be a lower cost solution

Good advice. I want to build this one

Poised2Pogo

I can snap a photo tomorrow when I get back to the shop but here is a screen shot of the bearing I orded off amazon.

wow those are expensive bearings...

Kat

Hey people, you might have seen it, but we're making little Precious Plastic Awards

With the categories

Best Product
Best Machine Hack
Best How-to Make sure we can find you under the hashtags / tags

#preciousplastic #preciousplasticawards2020 @realpreciousplastic We'll start selecting from 15th Dec, and the winners will be posted end of december. Looking forward to see your stuff!

where to post under this hashtag?

@Poised2Pogo shaft definitely should be of one piece, this looks like a bad joke really. The screwed part should work as an extension of the shaft? If so, that's screwed... anyway please dont put it back in. -scraping sound: did you check the alignment of the bearing vs cast iron body? For my shredder they came missaligned, nd before i noticed, i put it on the shaft which almost didn't turn. That could also apply forces on the bearing and make that sound. If the screw pushes so hard, wouldn't it help to add an axial bearing also with the collar? (As i don't have an extruder, can someone explain point of the bearing that broke? It is to support the bearings in the gearbox i guess?)

magi SVK

@Poised2Pogo shaft definitely should be of one piece, this looks like a bad joke really. The screwed part should work as an extension of the shaft? If so, that's screwed... anyway please dont put it back in. -scraping sound: did you check the alignment of the bearing vs cast iron body? For my shredder they came missaligned, nd before i noticed, i put it on the shaft which almost didn't turn. That could also apply forces on the bearing and make that sound. If the screw pushes so hard, wouldn't it help to add an axial bearing also with the collar? (As i don't have an extruder, can someone explain point of the bearing that broke? It is to support the bearings in the gearbox i guess?)

Yeah, I think that bit is an extension of the shaft... perhaps just to tack on that pillow bearing on the back. Also kinda thinking that’s what’s causing the slight wobble and soft scraping sound cus even though it screws in it’s not perfectly tight and you can wiggle it a bit with you hand. I’m gonna replace that cast iron bearing with a steel one and rig up some kind of collar or back plate ... while I’m waiting on the parts I might open up the housing on the front side of the gearbox and see what’s going on in there

Poised2Pogo

Not sure this is causing the problem but also not sure what purpose this would serve. Also, this end piece isn’t a very tight fit so it jiggles a bit (probably that womble I noticed)

Push out and throw away that shaft and made a solid one. After that, remember that radial bearings are made to support only little axial load...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQH-mmwpQFQ

GeorDing Machinery Co., Ltd

Prototype of extruder combined with injection molding machine 押射機原型

Hi, thinner plastic seems to clog up the shredder really bad, any suggestions ? Using it without sieve works a lot better but needs a lot of reshredding. The picture shows the chamber from the bottom : (edited)

@Deleted User i read here somewhere that it's better to melt layers of thin plaatics first to get thicker, shreddable material.

Also this reminds me of my friends idea. What would happen, if there was another set of fixed blades (shredder v2) or in case of shredder pro, sets of fixed blade on the sides? To add another cutting/shredding edges? Wouldn't that quicken the grinding a litttle bit, or it would just add another friction/forces for the shredder to jam more often?

@magi SVK Good point. We identified so far the problematic zones. On the left plastic is getting in and on the right, the plastic is filling up and is stuck forever. Not sure what to do. Modifying the stationary blades involves also redesigning the entire housing.

5:11 PM

When it's filled up, the motor has a really hard time and feels like the hole thing is exploding any moment. Reshredding isn't btw. a real option since there is no regular flake size anymore.

I'm dumb, haven't notice the pro fixed blades

‍♂️ Anyway @Deleted User does that happen also with thick plastic?

Thicker plastic : not at such levels but with lower sieve hole sizes it's similar. The pressure on the stationary knifes (from the bottom) is so high that it deformed the top plate (I forgot some bolts).

I have another stupid idea that can't work. Would it be possible to bend the top of the sideplate of the sieve to decrease distance to the blades? Teoretically it could minimize space for plastic to stuff in/speed up a tearing it apart (or it could also ruin the whole sieve and make blades crash into it lol).

Stupid ideas changed the world though. Ruining the sieve, yes - that´s possible. I am afraid stationary blades, sieve and housing needs to be redone and it´s still possible it won´t work good enough. Thanks mate.

Is anyone selling plastic shredders

@Deleted User I believe the pro shredder blades are meant to turn towards the center, into each other. It looks like your blades are running the wrong way? Could be causing issues.

You mean that I shredded in reverse? No, but it helps to unclog

The picture shows the chamber from the bottom

@Deleted User hello, just look at the difference of the cutting blades. on your shredder these will run in the wrong direction. or is it deliberately mounted in this way?

@Deleted User congrats, you've succesfully confused the discord

2

@De Bartjes - The picture shows the chamber from the bottom

guys, I'm looking at the docs/pdfs in this repo https://github.com/catx23/now-project.eu/blob/master/projects/precious%20-%20plastic%20-%20v3/3.%20Build/Shredder/bill%20of%20materials%20Machines%20-%20shredder.pdf the pdf says that you need 1 sheet of each for the laser cut parts, but how much is that? I could sum up the areas of all small pieces, but maybe someone already did that

1:20 PM

also, just to make sure, this pdf contains all the pieces, right? https://github.com/catx23/now-project.eu/blob/master/projects/precious%20-%20plastic%20-%20v3/3.%20Build/Shredder/Blueprints/00_laser%20files/Overview%20technical.pdf

Deleted User

@De Bartjes - The picture shows the chamber from the bottom

oke

2

Hey guys, I've been working on v2 of my injection machine but I've been having a lot of binding with my plunger rod. Initially, it was too large so I ground it down until it worked but now with heat and plastic involved it seems like it's warping and binding up. What inner diameter tube and rod is everyone using? I'm going to purchase a new rod as I don't have a lathe but I'm just not sure how big the gap should be between the inner tube wall and rod (edited)

4:24 PM

I'm doing a design similar to the precious plastic melbourne guys with the log splitter if it matters.

@Netero yep, those are all the parts, in second link. You could sum it up, but it won't tell you much as cutting creates a lot of waste (with all the radiuses, circles etc). But yes, someone who already made cutting program, or at least positioning of parts on the sheet in some CAD can help.

magi SVK

@Netero yep, those are all the parts, in second link. You could sum it up, but it won't tell you much as cutting creates a lot of waste (with all the radiuses, circles etc). But yes, someone who already made cutting program, or at least positioning of parts on the sheet in some CAD can help.

yeah, I already figured that I'd have to buy more metal after taking a closer look at all the parts anyway, if anyone can give me a rough estimate, it'll help a lot

6mm = 37x37 cm
5mm = 56x56 cm
3mm = 38x38 cm

here's what I got from summing up all the areas and rounding up

Hi, are there any other materials that i can use for the blades instead of HARDOX, im trying to find sheets in 4mm and 6mm for the shredder pro but i only found this material in inches. Pls help, most of similar materials with 450HB are in inches here in peru

(edited)

RE: V4 North America Hack #preciousplastic #preciousplasticawards2020 @realpreciousplastic. For some time time we have not just altered the dimensions from metric to Imperial units due to material availability but also tried to reduce manufacturing costs as well as making maintenance simpler. We have a few innovative items to reveal with our "Hack" pictures to follow:

1

12:49 AM

We have altered gears, bearings, half split design, shredder finger attachments, fully removable assembled shafts, solid outer box design. Just posted a video in the Precious Plastic Canada Server in Category shredder workspace #shredder-pictures #RE: V4 North America Hack #preciousplastic #preciousplasticawards2020 @realpreciousplastic check the posted video on our server, sorry could not post here.... https://discord.gg/aYWm982Gvu (edited)

Invite to join a server

Precious Plastic Canada

shredder-pictures

1

1:25 AM

Sorry just a screenshot video is on the Precious Plastic Canada Server...

fyi... update on our plastic bag/sachet experiments

5:38 AM

We shredded with our high speed shredder and using the vacuum collection system.

5:39 AM

the end result plastic was very fluffy and bridge when trying to put into the extrusion machine. We shredded a second time, and then a third time. Finding that after a second time we was unable to get a smaller more flowable flake.

5:40 AM

We fed into the extrusion machine v3 screw 2hp @150 rpm and 217c

5:41 AM

the output was a rather bubbly and steamy mess. We extruded into the turbo cooker oven again with the silicone lined bowl until we had aprox 850 grams. We determined this by pre weighing the flake before extrusion.

5:42 AM

We then used silicone baking spatulas and wearing rubber gloves to transfer to our plant pot compression mold. We compressed under 6 tons.

5:43 AM

We found that the material compressed easier than the HDPE we had previously. However... during the first two attempts we had a few blobs of HDPE in the mix and it was not mixed complete.

5:44 AM

the HDPE blobs induced cracks in the product.

5:44 AM

By part number 3 we had fully purged the system of HDPE and ended up with the result as seen here. You can see some foil flakes on the surface.

5:46 AM

The material is slightly softer than HDPE. likely due to the large amount of LDPE from the shrink wrap and bubble wrap films in the mix.

5:47 AM

Appearance is as shown a slightly green/greay appearance and streaked with color along with some small flecks of silver aluminum.

5:48 AM

All in all we are pleased with the output. Compression molding of the bubbly molten plastic forces the air bubbles out.

5:49 AM

However we still need a better feed mechanism into the extrusion screw.

1

5:50 AM

Either a second larger auger (drill bit?) to feed into the extrusion or a larger extrusion screw and opening. funds lacking to conduct these tests.

5:53 AM

@Bouroncle I understand what you are saying. Basically changing the blade size to 1/4" changes everything. It also messes with the spacers and available sizes, essentially as per original design if both your shafts have a spacer which needs to be .020" thicker, ie .270" then that causes an issue as you can not buy .270" material. We dealt with this by adding a spacer shim (we used weld spots for the first test). At best you need to keep everything even... such that the assembly will to come together within .0005" (.025mm) for each blade and spacer set. Worst case you can change the .020" shim in places to change the spacing. This will reduce your tstack up error. All your comb finger holder spacings will also have to reflect the 1/4" required there and affected spacing. So you have to make a decision to use a tool steel and harden and grind to the exact sizes (this will be great but very expensive) or alter the design and deal with Hardox material. Truly the Hardox is a trade name for material from sweden so the hardox you are getting might be a clone at inch sizes. Not sure if that is the way it is Hardox is SAAB and should be metric. They also sell 1/4" as 6mm pending the tolerance they apply and there is really no level of precision you can expect, so your cutting clearance and spacers will need some adjusting. Experiment with the comb cutouts being looser, that way you have a broader range of adjustability with the blades and spacers.

Try it with your ShredderPro.

7

6

3:47 PM

4KW . 20rpm. 500HB material. and yes. the shredder pro has some natural born flaws. the sideway blades need to change the shape to prevent clogging. keep everthing even is important. it's not a easy work.

Any one have a small shedder

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) you did not use POM gears for a 4kW shredder?!

We are at the end of prototyping, we put this together real quick and were not worried about the gears will make the gears after, however the Nylon 101 might stand up for a while, it has been surprisingly strong. We are waiting for a larger power source 5 or even 7.5 HP. The gears will either be even toothed or odd as in the original design, the shaft pitch is the same so the same gear form can could be used.

2

Hello, I want to make an extrusion screw with a lathe, what material do you recommend for the screw? Cheers

@Samuel Palestino - Chromium worked well so far, often readily available from metal suppliers. Others tried steel but it comes with penalties as rust but you can send it for nitrate plating. here a few more insights : https://www.ptonline.com/articles/why-bother-to-chrome-plate-your-screws

EXTRUSION: Why Bother to Chrome Plate Your Screws?

It doesn’t add that much to the overall cost and can improve performance and facilitate maintenance. So the better question is: Why not?

tthank you very much bro

here some nice vids :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GridDLZ56yQ&ab_channel=GlyconCorp. (big screws)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPhJLgrPAI&t=2s&ab_channel=PlasticHub (manual, PPish)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf4dQ2xw4OM&ab_channel=AndysMachines (DIY CNC, PPish) Count on 1-2 days cutting, and another day for finishing it well

(edited)

2

@Deleted User if I may interject, just got stopped on your wording. As you mentioned Chrome plating is available, but it is not purchased as the raw material. The raw material substrate for plating can have high chromium content in itself giving it some corrosion resistance. A Stainless steel 316 or a high chromium tool steel will be difficult to cut but can be polished t a morror finish. Not sure if it will be good for the extruder application as a whole. The "Why Not" is that Chromium, if hexavalent is really bad for the environment, although it is really good for the envoronment when we can reshape plastics. Always a weight option of cosequences. Great links you posted, are all these links getting grouped somewhere? We are also looking at options which could make all that easier and will share any findings.

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) - my bad, you're right. I don't know the exact name - we call it chromoly here. Sure, pure chromium is brutal hard. Regarding link directories, yes - we capture those things on Github - still have to find a way to make it visible but also add collab features.

11:56 AM

Btw. doing commercial grade extrusion screws needs quite some resources - there are usually different and multiple treatments but also a specialized cutting machine which renders this near unaffordable, you will find yourself competing with China. On the contrary, I've seen machine shops in India using modified lathes - looking rather dirt cheap. Perhaps it's possible to make a clone of those, just need somebody to walk in there and make some more detailed pictures

(edited)

Good day to all

11:58 AM

Van anyone here help me getting CAD files for laser cut ting parts for shredders? I find this link from website posted by precious for shredder 2.0 but it only shows 3d preview without cad files to download https://b2b.partcommunity.com/community/partcloud/?route=part&name=Shredder+Basic+V2.0&model_id=96649

Shredder Basic V2.0

http://preciousplastic.comFor reasons of file version control, the latest release is only available from our website.

12:00 PM

@ShrednMelt_Xu can you tell me how much did it cost you to build that shredder with 2 set of knifes

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@Bouroncle I understand what you are saying. Basically changing the blade size to 1/4" changes everything. It also messes with the spacers and available sizes, essentially as per original design if both your shafts have a spacer which needs to be .020" thicker, ie .270" then that causes an issue as you can not buy .270" material. We dealt with this by adding a spacer shim (we used weld spots for the first test). At best you need to keep everything even... such that the assembly will to come together within .0005" (.025mm) for each blade and spacer set. Worst case you can change the .020" shim in places to change the spacing. This will reduce your tstack up error. All your comb finger holder spacings will also have to reflect the 1/4" required there and affected spacing. So you have to make a decision to use a tool steel and harden and grind to the exact sizes (this will be great but very expensive) or alter the design and deal with Hardox material. Truly the Hardox is a trade name for material from sweden so the hardox you are getting might be a clone at inch sizes. Not sure if that is the way it is Hardox is SAAB and should be metric. They also sell 1/4" as 6mm pending the tolerance they apply and there is really no level of precision you can expect, so your cutting clearance and spacers will need some adjusting. Experiment with the comb cutouts being looser, that way you have a broader range of adjustability with the blades and spacers.

Thanks

5:36 PM

Why the spacers of 4mm have to be in Hardox and the 2.5mm in mild steel for the shredder pro? Is there any problem if i use mild steel for the 4mm spacers?

Hey I'm trying to build the pro shredder. I just came back from the laser cutter shop to get a quote. Does anyone have the quantities for each part?

TheGreatDongo

Hey I'm trying to build the pro shredder. I just came back from the laser cutter shop to get a quote. Does anyone have the quantities for each part?

The quantity is mentioned in the name files as QTY

Samuel Palestino

Hello, I want to make an extrusion screw with a lathe, what material do you recommend for the screw? Cheers

chrome moly steel

1:50 AM

re: molds... Talked to industry expert about die cast zinc molds for plastic molding. Melt point of zinc is 405c and plastic is half that. However... you can cast zinc into silicone rubber molds. it will hold up long enough for a casting. High temperature automotive silicone will handle this. However the industry expert I spoke with has never heard of a zinc die cast plastic mold. Maybe we need a working group on this?

@Bouroncle thank you I am a idiot

3:08 AM

@Butte (PP Philippines) why not use cast aluminum finding aluminum to recycle is alot easier than zinc

TheGreatDongo

@Butte (PP Philippines) why not use cast aluminum finding aluminum to recycle is alot easier than zinc

because aluminum is too hot for silicone. magic sand does not keep shape well enough

7:22 AM

zinc is common in wheel weights now days

Ah okay how are you going to get a large supply of them ?

TheGreatDongo

Ah okay how are you going to get a large supply of them ?

how large is large? I can buy ingots from the industrial supply.

Gypsum work well enough to make zinc or aluminum molds. I ran lot of test building a polystyrene raw NEGATIVE, to make a Gypsum POSITIVE, casted recycled aluminum to make a finished NEGATIVE (the actual mold). It works but now I do need an extruder to turn my mould into a proper injection molding machine... (edited)

Does anyone have some pics of the Shredder pro assembled in cad and a real one pls?

If I were able to get a hold of a 5hp 3phase Dayton Motor new/unused, would this be a good starting point to building a shredder?

Plastic Paradigm

If I were able to get a hold of a 5hp 3phase Dayton Motor new/unused, would this be a good starting point to building a shredder?

yes, sounds good as far as power. What type of face is it? C face has mounts for attaching a reducer.

Type on the side plate says P

got a photo?

5:17 AM

That wiring scares me

If the insulation isn't broken anywhere then that should be fine. The face on the output side is going to be a bit funny to find a reducer that will match to it. Those four bolts and the shaft diameter need to match up to something that can bolt directly onto it.

5:21 AM

Or, start messing around with pulley reductions. >_>

Hmmm... I might wait and be patient a while longer

5:32 AM

Dude said “new” but it does not look new

5:33 AM

Save my pennies

5:37 AM

Thanks @CitSciWorkshop

CitSciWorkshop

If the insulation isn't broken anywhere then that should be fine. The face on the output side is going to be a bit funny to find a reducer that will match to it. Those four bolts and the shaft diameter need to match up to something that can bolt directly onto it.

chain coupler will work to a shafting.

1

6:39 AM

Hey everybody, I'm new here but have been doing my best to absorb all the great info you share. I'm wondering if anybody has any experience with these Chinese plastic shredder/granulators I see on my local craigslist (https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bfd/d/rancho-cucamonga-220v-plastic-shredder/7237535155.html). I'm hoping to use the shredded material for injection molding. Thanks for your help!

jonpanic

Hey everybody, I'm new here but have been doing my best to absorb all the great info you share. I'm wondering if anybody has any experience with these Chinese plastic shredder/granulators I see on my local craigslist (https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bfd/d/rancho-cucamonga-220v-plastic-shredder/7237535155.html). I'm hoping to use the shredded material for injection molding. Thanks for your help!

good idea poor execution. We build a similar machine here in the Philippines. However we use a 5hp motor not the tiny 3hp the china machine has. Also the china machine likely has a aluminum core motor not copper, so that means it will not withstand long use without overheating. for a entry level machine it is okay, better than the v3 shredder but just be aware of the duty cycle. You could possibly hack the motor and add in a extra cooling fan to it. We did that to a aluminum motor that powers a log splitter compression molder. Also unsure the blade quality. Likely at that price you are getting some pretty poor quality steel blades, and I would prob give it another coat of paint before using it as the paint on those is thin and not galvanized steel like mine. Just dont expect to be running 300 kilo batches at a time with it.

2:42 AM

from our research the chinese made shredder machine is a copy of a Japanese machine we found on youtube. We only had a few pictures and video to go on and our Dutch volunteer basically designed a new version of that. Also the bearings in the China machine are not very good. I have a lot of experience getting things made here in Asia. At that price.. there is not much room to use good quality parts and still make a profit.

2

Butte (PP Philippines)

from our research the chinese made shredder machine is a copy of a Japanese machine we found on youtube. We only had a few pictures and video to go on and our Dutch volunteer basically designed a new version of that. Also the bearings in the China machine are not very good. I have a lot of experience getting things made here in Asia. At that price.. there is not much room to use good quality parts and still make a profit.

Thank you for the insight. We're not going to be processing a lot of material, we were just hoping to find a shredder to get us up and running while we start prototyping and do small production runs. I may go check one out in person and see if it's worth the risk, and if it's something that can be modified if necessary. I appreciate your help.

@jonpanic check this wood chipper, a little rough and not a PP shredder but it might get something started: https://www.instagram.com/p/CI_prNxBVhX/ It was forwarded by @Derpyhsi - thanks! (edited)

Of course!

4:43 AM

So far I do not have the woodchipper my friend @Rai has it.

has anyone here tried using a wood pellet machine to pelletize otheriwise unrecyclable plastic like bags and sachets? Doing a lot of research into this, but lacking a pellet machine, to get conclusive results.

@Butte (PP Philippines) @jonpanic

5:14 AM

wow,wow,wow. im a bit offened. " china machine likely has a aluminum core motor not copper ?" Seriously? Im living in China. Im a machine maker.i provide machines for both domastic and international clients. I have a lot motor supplier. if they give me "aluminum core motor“ i will sue them to death no matter what！ and for " the bearings in the China machine are not very good " . you should be responsible for your saying.Where did you get that conlusion?l'm really pissed about your irresponsible saying about chinese machine! if you wanna brag about your machine . go ahead. just don't diminish others! thank you! (edited)

1

2

@ShrednMelt_Xu what types of machines do you make?

ShrednMelt_Xu

wow,wow,wow. im a bit offened. " china machine likely has a aluminum core motor not copper ?" Seriously? Im living in China. Im a machine maker.i provide machines for both domastic and international clients. I have a lot motor supplier. if they give me "aluminum core motor“ i will sue them to death no matter what！ and for " the bearings in the China machine are not very good " . you should be responsible for your saying.Where did you get that conlusion?l'm really pissed about your irresponsible saying about chinese machine! if you wanna brag about your machine . go ahead. just don't diminish others! thank you! (edited)

Well all the aluminum core motors I got from China have overheated and had problems. Also I know the price of your components in China. there is absolutely no way to make a high grade shredder for 1300 usd and ship it to the US. Second I have seen those machines in the ad in person. The metal is thin and painted. Good bearings like NSK or SKF are 3x the cost of the China sourced units I have used previously. the Chinese bearings have failed on me many times.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Well all the aluminum core motors I got from China have overheated and had problems. Also I know the price of your components in China. there is absolutely no way to make a high grade shredder for 1300 usd and ship it to the US. Second I have seen those machines in the ad in person. The metal is thin and painted. Good bearings like NSK or SKF are 3x the cost of the China sourced units I have used previously. the Chinese bearings have failed on me many times.

oh..so what you saying is that you knew its "aluminum core" right ? and then you purchase "aluminum core" motor for your product? you know its aluminum core. and you blame "China machine likely has a aluminum core motor not copper ?" OK. this is your logic. i see. if Chinese bearings failed you many times. WHY YOU BUY IT AGAIN AND AGAIN ? come on. just dont buy it from some unknown cheap online shop. me .myself, i use NSK bears. i'd like to have good parts on my machine .to ensure my product will work perfectly.

2:59 PM

3:00 PM

i will not say anything about your comment. it's just meaningless to argue . im tired of it.

Hello people do you know whether a shredder with 10mm wide teeth and only one shaft works?

8:10 PM

I want to build a shredder with 10 mm wide teeth without tooth dislocation for plastic bottles.

8:11 PM

Does anyone have experience with it?

Butte (PP Philippines)

from our research the chinese made shredder machine is a copy of a Japanese machine we found on youtube. We only had a few pictures and video to go on and our Dutch volunteer basically designed a new version of that. Also the bearings in the China machine are not very good. I have a lot of experience getting things made here in Asia. At that price.. there is not much room to use good quality parts and still make a profit.

in a former occupation we had 1500 hp GE motors that would over heat. we added blowers to them and it did the trick. since the cheap chinese motors don't generate neat the heat of the fore mentioned motors, you should be able to get away with a small fan blowing on the back of the motor.

Hi im from Mexico and i want to buy an extrusion machine from your bazar, which one do you reccomend me to make beams, and what type of plastic?. Greetings from Mexico

hi i'm building a table top 3d filament extruder i think my extrusion screw need some corrections. if any one having hands on experience on it please look into it. (edited)

4:58 AM

Extruder_Screw.pdf

217.6 KB

4:59 AM

Extruder_Screw_new_v1.f3d

523.75 KB

4:59 AM

Extruder_Screw_new_v1.step

543.79 KB

@uday#8882 don't take me seriously as i don't have extruder yet, i'm just curious. It seems that the screw is conical right from feeding part. I would be concerned if plastic will have time to at least heat up untill it reaches compression zone? If it will be solid, it can stuck the screw maybe? Also angle of the thread is pretty big-plastic will travel faster-will have less time to heat? Again, i'm just asking if you considered that.

Hello all. Question: Shredder Pro wiring to the motor using a cable and a male plug. I can't figure out the wire colour code. My wire colours are white, black, brown, blue, and yellow/green. The male plug end is marked L1, L2, L3, N/W, and another symbol. What goes where?? Thanks.

@Bujinkan This should help

8:13 AM

I believe your white wire should go into the grey spot onn the diagram

Hey guys! Has anyone here had any experience with ordering parts from BMH Solution in Turkey? I run an engineering studio here in Massachusetts, US and am in the process of building a v4 shredder pro for a client of mine. I've been shopping around for the laser cut parts, gears, and shafts and found what seems like a good deal on the bazaar from BMH Solution in Istanbul at $1900 USD, shipping included. My local shops wanted $6600 for just for those parts but I need to keep the total cost of the build under $5k so my local shops won't work for me. (edited)

I got an electrical question... I've just ordered two workshop style versions of machines (shredder with a 1.5HP motor and an injection machine). I've confirmed with the machine builder that the machines use a standard 3 prong plug and runs at less than 30 amps. I'm planning to get a 14-30P to a 5-15R power chord to run the machine from my dryer outlet in my condo which is 30 amps. If the machine runs at 30 amps, will the 5-15R provide enough power? I.e., If I have a 30 amp adaptor, does the other side only get 15 amps? I'm worried it won't be enough power to run the machine... I also have an outlet for my stove which is 40 amps. Would that be better or would it cause they same issue with the power chord?

FlipsidePlastics

I got an electrical question... I've just ordered two workshop style versions of machines (shredder with a 1.5HP motor and an injection machine). I've confirmed with the machine builder that the machines use a standard 3 prong plug and runs at less than 30 amps. I'm planning to get a 14-30P to a 5-15R power chord to run the machine from my dryer outlet in my condo which is 30 amps. If the machine runs at 30 amps, will the 5-15R provide enough power? I.e., If I have a 30 amp adaptor, does the other side only get 15 amps? I'm worried it won't be enough power to run the machine... I also have an outlet for my stove which is 40 amps. Would that be better or would it cause they same issue with the power chord?

Not an electrical engineer so take this with a grain of salt. The cord doesn't exactly limit the amount of power the machines will receive. The rating on the cord or plug is a safety rating for the amount of amperage the cord will safely transmit ie. transmitting 100A through a 30A cord is technically possible but will cause a fire in no time. Check the metal plaque on the motor to see the actual amperage specification it will be drawing. If it's using a standard 3 prong plug my guess is it will be somewhere around 20A which your plug should be ok if its a 5-15/20. Can anyone verify this? Also, I built a shredder not long ago and I found that while running on a standard 20A breaker, if it's trying to shred a good amount of plastic and the motor has a decent load, it'll trip the breaker pretty frequently. (edited)

1

PreciousPlasticBoston

Hey guys! Has anyone here had any experience with ordering parts from BMH Solution in Turkey? I run an engineering studio here in Massachusetts, US and am in the process of building a v4 shredder pro for a client of mine. I've been shopping around for the laser cut parts, gears, and shafts and found what seems like a good deal on the bazaar from BMH Solution in Istanbul at $1900 USD, shipping included. My local shops wanted $6600 for just for those parts but I need to keep the total cost of the build under $5k so my local shops won't work for me. (edited)

I just received my shredder pro from them. Everything looks great so far.

Bujinkan

I just received my shredder pro from them. Everything looks great so far.

How much did it run you? Do you have any pictures of it?

@PreciousPlasticBoston - we had actually some disappointments, rusty parts, and few other problems but minor but I guess you get what you pay for

(edited)

danpheng

@PreciousPlasticBoston - we had actually some disappointments, rusty parts, and few other problems but minor but I guess you get what you pay for

(edited)

Is it possible the issues were from shipping or do you think they were from the manufacturing process?

The latter - I think they have other QA standards. Anyways, it was minor and they were quick to acknowledge the issue and very likely that won´t happen anymore.

9:41 PM

In particular the setscrews on the Module 9 gears were in a wrong arrangement, eg: not triangular pointing to the key seat. The components needed also lots of cleanup but that´s fine.

9:43 PM

Anyway, you should really check your requirements and process. V4 shredder has known issues which could render the invest useless.

danpheng

Anyway, you should really check your requirements and process. V4 shredder has known issues which could render the invest useless.

What kind of issues? I just finished building my first V2 shredder and came across really minor issues like the coupling bushing material being too soft for the amount of torque being exerted onto it, the rudimentary electrical circuit design being a little annoying, and the frame design creating gaps between it and the collection bin. Any links to discussions or anything you can point me in the direction of?

1. the force calculations don´t add up. To make really use of the size and proportions, you´d need something 4Kw but the design isn´t really made for. Auto-Reverse helps but it would run a lot. 2. Using the sieve is simply a nogo. 3. Even Hardox blades wear out faster than expected. 4. Material gets between stationary blades and the spacers, requiring lot´s of forces. 5. Very limited to a narrow choice of possible materials. There are some started discussions, 4 days ago, and one in June in this channel. However, we decided to re-design the whole thing just, very similar to @ShrednMelt_Xu post recently (search). Possible it can be ok for some cases but somehow we want a better price/value ratio. Btw. there could be significant import tax for Turkey.

@FlipsidePlastics Depends on your supply voltage, not sure if you’re 110 or 240. In either case you should be totally fine. 1.5hp is aprox 1120w, 1120w/110v is 10a 1120w/240v is 4.6a Stall currents (when the motor shaft stops) can be higher, but you’re drawing high amps for a relatively short amount of time, which is ok. Just don’t leave your shredder stalled overnight

@PreciousPlasticBoston What motor are you running that was managing to trip a 20a breaker?

2

Isometric

@FlipsidePlastics Depends on your supply voltage, not sure if you’re 110 or 240. In either case you should be totally fine. 1.5hp is aprox 1120w, 1120w/110v is 10a 1120w/240v is 4.6a Stall currents (when the motor shaft stops) can be higher, but you’re drawing high amps for a relatively short amount of time, which is ok. Just don’t leave your shredder stalled overnight

@PreciousPlasticBoston What motor are you running that was managing to trip a 20a breaker?

A 1.5hp older, discontinued farm duty motor lol

Isometric

@FlipsidePlastics Depends on your supply voltage, not sure if you’re 110 or 240. In either case you should be totally fine. 1.5hp is aprox 1120w, 1120w/110v is 10a 1120w/240v is 4.6a Stall currents (when the motor shaft stops) can be higher, but you’re drawing high amps for a relatively short amount of time, which is ok. Just don’t leave your shredder stalled overnight

@PreciousPlasticBoston What motor are you running that was managing to trip a 20a breaker?

Can't see it very well but this one (edited)

3

Deleted User

@Samuel Palestino - Chromium worked well so far, often readily available from metal suppliers. Others tried steel but it comes with penalties as rust but you can send it for nitrate plating. here a few more insights : https://www.ptonline.com/articles/why-bother-to-chrome-plate-your-screws

Did you think thick electrolitic nickel plating is good for the screws? We plate some of our parts (I work in a metalworking company) with nickel, and I can add a screw for a little price to other parts.

Bouroncle

Hi, are there any other materials that i can use for the blades instead of HARDOX, im trying to find sheets in 4mm and 6mm for the shredder pro but i only found this material in inches. Pls help, most of similar materials with 450HB are in inches here in peru

(edited)

Where is the problem? You can alter the size of the other parts to meet the sum of the imperial thickness sheets.

PreciousPlasticBoston

Not an electrical engineer so take this with a grain of salt. The cord doesn't exactly limit the amount of power the machines will receive. The rating on the cord or plug is a safety rating for the amount of amperage the cord will safely transmit ie. transmitting 100A through a 30A cord is technically possible but will cause a fire in no time. Check the metal plaque on the motor to see the actual amperage specification it will be drawing. If it's using a standard 3 prong plug my guess is it will be somewhere around 20A which your plug should be ok if its a 5-15/20. Can anyone verify this? Also, I built a shredder not long ago and I found that while running on a standard 20A breaker, if it's trying to shred a good amount of plastic and the motor has a decent load, it'll trip the breaker pretty frequently. (edited)

Thanks for this insight. I think I should be fine given I'm running on 30 amp in comparison to your 20amp. Good to know!

Isometric

@FlipsidePlastics Depends on your supply voltage, not sure if you’re 110 or 240. In either case you should be totally fine. 1.5hp is aprox 1120w, 1120w/110v is 10a 1120w/240v is 4.6a Stall currents (when the motor shaft stops) can be higher, but you’re drawing high amps for a relatively short amount of time, which is ok. Just don’t leave your shredder stalled overnight

@PreciousPlasticBoston What motor are you running that was managing to trip a 20a breaker?

I'm 110. So should be good. Thank you for confirming. This is all new to me!

@FlipsidePlastics Hey there when are you getting your machines, or are you already up and running? Any issues with your machines? I am hearing a lot of machines are breaking likely because people are bypassing or don`t have auto reverse or motor overload. What are your thoughts on that? The North American machines need to be build different due to material availability but can we find a common motot gear box that is available in Canada / USA and europe by a manufacturer that stocks products in bothe countries?

This supplier however has good and complete list of motors and gearboxes : https://www.cidepa-sincron.com/en/home which can be referenced in many continents

I would like to setup a machine shop in the US, would like to connect with other US folks

@peterbergquist speak to @CitSciWorkshop they might be open to potential collaboaration. Ask to be invited to some of the US servers.

Thanks

Hey guys! Hope everyone is doing well before christmas holidays start.

7:17 PM

I am currently building the sheetpress and I had a small question

7:18 PM

I am guessing the top sheet does not into the frame. How do you get rid of air bubbles in this manner?

7:18 PM

And how do you maintain a uniform thickness throughout the sheet?

7:18 PM

Feel free to type, send a voice note, make a drawing whatever’s convenient

Our shop built CNC plasma table is almost done. Delay almost 2 months because no pencil torch to put in it. Hand torch was not working

4:27 AM

4:28 AM

pencil torch finally arrived today. this will let us prototype and build more things in house without waiting 2 weeks for the laser. We still will use the laser shop, but sometimes it a lot less headache to do parts in house

PreciousPlasticBoston

Not an electrical engineer so take this with a grain of salt. The cord doesn't exactly limit the amount of power the machines will receive. The rating on the cord or plug is a safety rating for the amount of amperage the cord will safely transmit ie. transmitting 100A through a 30A cord is technically possible but will cause a fire in no time. Check the metal plaque on the motor to see the actual amperage specification it will be drawing. If it's using a standard 3 prong plug my guess is it will be somewhere around 20A which your plug should be ok if its a 5-15/20. Can anyone verify this? Also, I built a shredder not long ago and I found that while running on a standard 20A breaker, if it's trying to shred a good amount of plastic and the motor has a decent load, it'll trip the breaker pretty frequently. (edited)

I agree with this assessment. The cord probably will not catch on fire but the sheathing may melt and cause a shock hazard or short out an blow a breaker. Cord are usually PVC so not good to melt.

Has anyone here gotten their shredder parts galvanized? I just checked a local supplier and its about 12 USD for the v3 without the shafting getting treated.

7:02 AM

I parkerize the shaft of our shredders

Hi, does anyone know what the approximate lifetime is of the different machines?

I’m still trying to download the blueprint for the shredder, extrusion , and the flat press. Can someone just email it to me???? The page crashes or something + not a computer wiz at all.

@butte do you mean chrome plated? Galvanizing is not a good idea as it might flake off and contaminate the plastic, other than rust protection galvanizing would not do much that much or any for the blades wear resistance either. Whats the reason? (edited)

12:04 PM

@Deleted User that likely really depends on the use/abuse the machines get. At the end of the day with maintenance all the parts are replacable. What are you erperiencing, or are you evaluating?

12:06 PM

@summer the file sizes are very large. You are likely just not in the right spot for the download.

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) Thanks for the answer! We're trying to assess (and optimise) the circularity of a small-scale plastic recycling system, using precious plastics. So we also want to know for instance what plastics recycle best and don't lead to downcycling. But coming back to the lifetimes, are there types of plastics, sizes and product types that would affect this?

Is there a floorplan for a 40’ connex already created?

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@butte do you mean chrome plated? Galvanizing is not a good idea as it might flake off and contaminate the plastic, other than rust protection galvanizing would not do much that much or any for the blades wear resistance either. Whats the reason? (edited)

I mean hot dip zinc. It is not for wear, rather for rust. Especially the frame of it. paint scratches too easily during shipping. Mine are mild steel as stainless is extremely expensive.

2:32 AM

I have parkerized parts, but only way to mass produce is to pickle parts in muratic acid, wash and treat. cheap but time consuming vs sending out batches of parts

Sure, yea nice for the frame! Going to the big treat shops and often can pay by weight. I mean for any heat treatment. (edited)

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) thank you, plus I need a zip file reader.

Sure there are several free readers for download. Peazip etc.

Greetings

@mooya you just posted that question elsewhere and I responded...

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@mooya you just posted that question elsewhere and I responded...

Yeah. I got mixed up in the app usage. Thanks man

PreciousPlasticBoston

Not an electrical engineer so take this with a grain of salt. The cord doesn't exactly limit the amount of power the machines will receive. The rating on the cord or plug is a safety rating for the amount of amperage the cord will safely transmit ie. transmitting 100A through a 30A cord is technically possible but will cause a fire in no time. Check the metal plaque on the motor to see the actual amperage specification it will be drawing. If it's using a standard 3 prong plug my guess is it will be somewhere around 20A which your plug should be ok if its a 5-15/20. Can anyone verify this? Also, I built a shredder not long ago and I found that while running on a standard 20A breaker, if it's trying to shred a good amount of plastic and the motor has a decent load, it'll trip the breaker pretty frequently. (edited)

you are bang on correct. The current load of a wire is based on diameter (and length if a long run) of the conductor. i will not dispense with particulars because i don't know euro standard, I only know US electrical code. if you are having issues with drawing too much current, I would seriously look into going to a 2 phase motor drive. I'm looking to build a shredder. I am definitely going the route of a 2 or 3 phase motor drive. You will get far more torque with less current draw. That may solve the trip issues with the heavy shearing load.

Hey Guys! Im currently in the process of Building an Extruder and as im going through the blueprints im a bit confused about the frame tubing sizes. Below the tube itself are different sizes then on the tube itself? How do I read these Blueprints the right way?

I think 40 x 40 millimeters is the measurment of the tube profile and the 2,6 mm is the thickness of it

6:26 PM

6:27 PM

height = 40 mm width = 40 mm wall = 2,6 mm

Thanks!

Hi everyone, i'm new in One Army's world. I'm trying to build my own mixture workspace. I need some tips about Extrusion machine. I saw in "Techincal information", on Precious Plastic/extruder, that the extrusion machine can works only for a limitated time a day. Could someone explain me the reason why of this limitation? (edited)

Hi everyone, Where would be the best place to buy/design custom cnc molds? (edited)

@Erotavlas I believe it's a recommended limit to extend the working lifetime of the machine. The basic machines have multiple failure modes, in bearings, heaters, PID's etc, and can't really be run continuously. However it is simply a recommendation, and if you're confident enough in the construction of your machine feel free to run for longer.

7:07 AM

@Jmw If you're looking for people to assist with both design and manufacture of the mold, there are a number of skilled people on this server able to help. @Fritz @easymoulds is the first person that comes to mind, but there are plenty of others. Consider it fair warning though, custom design and machining work is expensive business. If you'd like to have more control over the design (and cost) of your mold, consider picking up a CAD program and learning to design yourself. There are plenty of good videos on YouTube detailing the design of small run injection molds, and this server can be a great resource for feedback on gate design, and designing for manufacturing. Taking the self designed option, you can then send out the files to a CNC machining workshop and get them machined.

2

Hello I'm Lartin Cedric , my association and I are looking to develop a recycling approach on Reunion Island and for that we would like to know if it was possible to have the Heat press plans ? Could not find them on the site. Thank you !

Is it this one? https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-starterkit-sheetpress/releases/download/V1.1/starterkit-sheetpress.zip

Hey there! Can someone help point me to older versions of the shredder? In 2018, I had a machine shop build the metal parts as per the specs, but I don't know which version and I don't know the specs for the diameter and length of shaft, bearings, and motor. Any help great appreciated.

allium

Hey there! Can someone help point me to older versions of the shredder? In 2018, I had a machine shop build the metal parts as per the specs, but I don't know which version and I don't know the specs for the diameter and length of shaft, bearings, and motor. Any help great appreciated.

Here's the dimensions of what I bought. The CAD files link at preciousplastic.com I had originally sent to the shop is now 404. (edited)

@Vincent G is the ennywhere closer to Stavanger I can get a hold of what i need?

B0aws

@Vincent G is the ennywhere closer to Stavanger I can get a hold of what i need?

Hi. What do you need exactly?

@allium https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download Here is all the blueprints, but you'll need to convert the units.

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hi there is there any instruction pdf available on how to mount the shredder blades on the shredder pro ?

Arild

Hi there is there any instruction pdf available on how to mount the shredder blades on the shredder pro ?

you cannot find documantation here? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download i was watching the basic shredder build previously and it looks quite easy to mount the blades on it. Is it quite more complicated on the pro?

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hey! saw some people have been trying out new fixed blade designs for the shredder. any updates as to how those have worked?

magi SVK

@allium https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download Here is all the blueprints, but you'll need to convert the units.

Thanks so much @magi SVK ❤️

Hey Guys

As I am going further down into the blueprints I wondered why the Steel Tubes 6-9 have to be L Angle. Wouldn't it be better to use "regular" Tubes for more stability?

6:41 PM

maybe more stability is not necessary because how it all "sticks" together and it is in order to reduce costs and matter used?

7:01 PM

Other than this, i was watching the extrusion machine build video and i was wondering why would i need and injection machine if i had an extrusion. Wouldn't the extrusion machine be able to fill the same molds as the injection machine does? Also i cannot locate the blueprints of the basic extrusion machine anywhere Does anyone know if they can be found?

Hey everyone, Happy new year! I’m about to have an extrusion pro and shredder pro shipped to me (I’m in Hawaii and the machines are being made in Florida). It’s my understanding that I’ll need variable frequency drives for these machines. How does a VFD and the machine electronics work together? Is there anything incompatible with the machine designs and VFD controls?

you connect the motor to the VFD and the VFD to the mains electricity. then you are able to have control on the speed of the motor

Yeah, I get that. So does that make the electronics on my machines unnecessary?

not sure about the whole of it. the extrusion has some electronics for heating up the pipe for example. it would be a good idea to talk about this with the provider of the machines i think...

Abe

Hey everyone, Happy new year! I’m about to have an extrusion pro and shredder pro shipped to me (I’m in Hawaii and the machines are being made in Florida). It’s my understanding that I’ll need variable frequency drives for these machines. How does a VFD and the machine electronics work together? Is there anything incompatible with the machine designs and VFD controls?

Hey Abe, You can use a single to three phase VFD to control the motors and get the right specs for the machines. We've opted to use full VFD motor control over the original published schematics for ease of use and stability.

Hey guys, we are building a shredder and we have a doubt about the motor. We are aiming for a 3 HP single phase motor because we don't have 3 phase instalation the house and we can throw a 60 m cable from another 3 P connection but it's really expensive. The others ideas are putting a Single Phase to 3 phase convertor or a VFD. Any recommendations which one to use or building the 3 P system for only one motor?

i dont think the 1 to 3 phase conversion will actually give you more power. 3 HP sounds decent, but also depends on your needs. With 3phase for sure you can have more power and better motors...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4658991/files interesting

Injection Molding Machine by BusterBeagle3D

This Thing will show you how to build your own Injection Molding Machine for around $200. Watch the video for step by step instructions on how to build and wire the machine. The STL files are for the Temperature PID enclosure with back cover, Injection Holder knobs, and Plunger Knobs. To print the Injection Holder knobs you will need to print u...

spiros nik

maybe more stability is not necessary because how it all "sticks" together and it is in order to reduce costs and matter used?

yes and no. Extrusion machine runs too slow to fill anything but a small mold. In commercial machines the plastic is literally traveling faster than the speed of sound. You need to fill the mold before the plastic freezes.

thanks for the input Butte! I get your point. In this case i wonder how plastic does not freeze when filling large molds with the extrusion machine, but i guess i will find the explanation somewhere in precious plastic video

Can someone help me out with finding building plans for the shredder. I can only find how to build the shredder pro. I don't have a lot of money or power tools to build the shredder pro right now.

@rrchaad The machine shop starter kit has everything you need. (edited)

CitSciWorkshop

Hey Abe, You can use a single to three phase VFD to control the motors and get the right specs for the machines. We've opted to use full VFD motor control over the original published schematics for ease of use and stability.

Thanks for the tip! I think I’ll get two VFDs for my shredder and extruder and run separate power for my 220v band heaters.

Abe

Thanks for the tip! I think I’ll get two VFDs for my shredder and extruder and run separate power for my 220v band heaters.

Oh, and I have 208v three phase at my warehouse. I think it’ll be simpler to use that instead, do you agree? I do have several 110v 25 amp outlets around the shop as well.

@PreciousPlasticBoston thanks

@PreciousPlasticBoston C my computer can't open the file its its too big

Abe

Oh, and I have 208v three phase at my warehouse. I think it’ll be simpler to use that instead, do you agree? I do have several 110v 25 amp outlets around the shop as well.

Having 3ph at your warehouse is a great start, but you'll still want a speed controller. A vfd does much more than just convert phases. You'll also want to make sure 208v complies with your motor/drive specs.

PreciousPlasticBoston

Having 3ph at your warehouse is a great start, but you'll still want a speed controller. A vfd does much more than just convert phases. You'll also want to make sure 208v complies with your motor/drive specs.

Here’s the motor plate from my builder. Y configuration

rrchaad

@PreciousPlasticBoston C my computer can't open the file its its too big

Either make space for it or download it and then delete anything you don't need. It has a lot of good info

Abe

Here’s the motor plate from my builder. Y configuration

Right. Most 3ph motors require at least 220v. There are vfds that convert 208 to 220 or higher I believe. It takes a bit of research. Also do you have a gearbox for it or just the motor?

Not sure. This whole process has been a challenge, finding someone to make the pro machines for me and give me the info about what they’re building. I assume that the builder (Megatec in Doral FL) is ensuring the correct gearing for this motor. It was my intention to pay someone else to make this part happen so I can develop products and build out my warehouse. Instead I’m reinventing the wheel and learning these details as I go.

Abe

Not sure. This whole process has been a challenge, finding someone to make the pro machines for me and give me the info about what they’re building. I assume that the builder (Megatec in Doral FL) is ensuring the correct gearing for this motor. It was my intention to pay someone else to make this part happen so I can develop products and build out my warehouse. Instead I’m reinventing the wheel and learning these details as I go.

I have a sweet spot in Hawaii for anyone super competent who needs a work vacation. I even have an extra car and surfboards.

2

Abe

Not sure. This whole process has been a challenge, finding someone to make the pro machines for me and give me the info about what they’re building. I assume that the builder (Megatec in Doral FL) is ensuring the correct gearing for this motor. It was my intention to pay someone else to make this part happen so I can develop products and build out my warehouse. Instead I’m reinventing the wheel and learning these details as I go.

Hahaha Welcome to the party! So far I've completed a v2 shredder and have a dual compression oven & v2 extruder about 75-90% done. I'm also starting another v2 shredder & sheet press build this week. Every step of the was has been a challenge but it is so incredibly worth it to make cool machines and make a real positive impact.

I would have loved to have learned how to make all the machines myself, but acquiring parts out here is so difficult and expensive. Especially the pro machines. I’m building an operation to recycle a lot of plastic, as I have strong relationships with many retailers (I’ve been an artist selling in stores for many years). Once I have a smooth operation with what I’ve started, I’ll be building a sheetpress too. I am loving the challenge, and I’m trying not to stress about how long it takes to get all this up and running! How big of a sheetpress?

Abe

I have a sweet spot in Hawaii for anyone super competent who needs a work vacation. I even have an extra car and surfboards.

A work vacation in hawaii sounds amazing right now. I have way too much work tying me down in Massachusetts right now

The more capable a person is, the busier they tend to be!

oh nice! I'm an artist too. I made my first real attempt at starting my artist career last year.

7:39 PM

PreciousPlasticBoston

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Sweet!

@Abe It'll be a pro sheetpress so 4' sheets (edited)

7:41 PM

*4' square

PreciousPlasticBoston

@Abe It'll be a pro sheetpress so 4' sheets (edited)

Super! Looking forward to the same.

PreciousPlasticBoston

oh nice! I'm an artist too. I made my first real attempt at starting my artist career last year.

I put my photos on wood

Abe

I put my photos on wood

Very cool! Beautiful composition

looks great

@Abe @PreciousPlasticBoston

1

Hey Guys! Its me again asking for help

Im looking forward to making(well to be exact outsourcing it because I dont an lathe) the bearing body of the extruder pro and came across this:

9:43 PM

9:45 PM

In the BOM provided it says that you should use 82,55 mm Tubing but the bearing body has a diameter of 80 mm. Am I Just Reading it wrong?

Centorion

In the BOM provided it says that you should use 82,55 mm Tubing but the bearing body has a diameter of 80 mm. Am I Just Reading it wrong?

The steel is supplied oversize so that you can machine it finished size. Also for maintaining concentricity when you machine the part in the lathe. (edited)

@blk.wth Makes Sense

Thank you!

1

@Deleted User RE: your question which was removed from Community Point about building a shredder - without some technical foundation and some metalworking ability it will be very difficult and possibly very long to build even the small shredder. The tolerance stack up and fitting of the pieces is not that easy and I would say that most of the Bazar prices are fair and account for only a very basic labour rate or min time. The materials you buy should be correct for the applicatoon as well. If you or someone you know does not have the skills better focus on finding some funding and buy an assembly from a reputable vendor.

This was the original question: Hello, I am a student living in Myanmar, Yangon, and I am considering to contribute to the precious plastic community by starting a shredder workplace(and if all goes well a mixed workplace, although I doubt it). Currently there are no other precious plastic workshops/centers at all in Myanmar. I am reaching out to seek help and your advice on the machinery and on the aspects on starting a workshop. How difficult would you say is making a shredder machine(without much training on machinery)? The kits and machines are expensive in the bazar(after all I am a student)... (edited)

Hey everyone, what type of fabric is everyone using to insulate the barrels on your injection machines?

As you probably read in my last posts I'm new to the whole machinery topic. I got the motor + gearbox a few weeks ago not thinking about it because it had the right specs. Now I'm stuck trying to remove the hub that is on there. I removed the bolt that is supposed to hold it but couldn't get it off(didn't want to put to much pressure on there beacuse I don't want to break it) Am I missing a Screw or something?

Also you can clearly see that it seems like a complete different gearbox type compared to the one used "officially". It seems like there are no points to bolt the Adapter on. Can I even use this gearbox?

8:39 PM

I would look carefully all over it and if i could not locate another mounting screw, i would try to apply force to extract the hub. A gentle way would be with a specific size "bearing" extractor, or a similar diy tool. Other than that, as it seems you bought it second hand. Usually at the scrapyards they buy and sell these things by kilo, so if one does not work for you you can always return it, get the exact same amount of money and go with another one...

Thanks for the input. I got it from a guy of ebay, think I still might have his number. He said it could be removed so im positve he knows how. If I am able to remove it, it seems like I would have to design a different Coupling Shaft that also relies on the same fastening method, right?

there are various shaft couplers with various diameter fitted in both sides and different mechanical characteristics. Here you can see some of them in the china market https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20210106135532&SearchText=shaft+coupler I guess the precious plastics mechanical research team has done their research and suggest the best type for this case. Probably a hi torque coupler. So you could look at the coupler they suggest and find one with similar mechanical characteristics, if the one they suggest does not fit your gearbox axis.

PreciousPlasticBoston

Right. Most 3ph motors require at least 220v. There are vfds that convert 208 to 220 or higher I believe. It takes a bit of research. Also do you have a gearbox for it or just the motor?

220-240 is the standard, even in the US. The difference is the US transformer they tap in the middle for 110v. However all US houses have 220v service also. VFD change the frequency not the voltage. You can run a three phase motor on single phase with the addition of a capacitor.

I want to shred the plastic I’m collecting with a shredder here in the US

4:18 AM

Any Machine Shops want to collaborate?

4:18 AM

Or have me test for you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj3XGTYuvzk

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Beams

9:19 AM

We are close to solving the puzzle for making smooth commercial quality plastic beams with the extrusion machine. the keys are pressure and removing the heat while under pressure. Our v3 2hp extrusion machine was making 300mm of this every 6.5 min. However we lacked a proper water jacket to cool it and our initial test run started out at too high temperature which resulted in bubbles along with some steam bubbles. Once the temp was reduced to 180c (much lower than the compression mold temps) we got this smooth beam, and we improvised by cooling the metal tubing with a garden hose. We have a 96mm round rod die in the works with a water jacket for cooling. End product will be HDPE rod that will be turned on a lathe and used to make parts for conveyor belt rollers. Local made and half the cost of importing. Plus 100 percent recycled. (edited)

7

Oyaou!

great work!

1

9:22 AM

I would love to see a tutorial or how to when you have stabilized the procedure!

spiros nik

I would love to see a tutorial or how to when you have stabilized the procedure!

very soon to be a production run. If I can make it work, the factory will take 100 meters of rod. (edited)

Hey. Can anyone guide me about what material should i use for building injection molding machine. Feel free to email on shahabjamal16@gmail.com

11:26 AM

?

11:27 AM

Material type, width according to price?

Deathmog

Hey everyone, what type of fabric is everyone using to insulate the barrels on your injection machines?

Hey guys! Hate to spam but I'm hoping to place an order today. Does anyone have any resources they can point me at or any experience with thermal fabric? I've been looking around but I can't find anything definitive

haven't built an injection machine, but fiberglass is the first thing that comes to mind. Probably there are some more user and eco friendly materials though. From what i know fiber glass can create skin and breath irritation if you are exposed to it. another solution would be to wrap the barrels with exhaust wrap...

I attempted to use a carbon welding blanket (only thing I could find locally) and it uh...wasn't good

8:49 PM

8:50 PM

Sure did insulate though!

Good Afternoon everyone

My brother and I are building the shredder and we don't know 1. what size of screws, nuts and tools are needed to assemble it (for tools I mean the tool to make the threads inside the holes etc). 2. The 28mm bar that crosses inside the shredder I have to take to the turner so that he can make the round parts of the tips but I don't know with what measures (what measures have the tips, what measure the center has) and I don't know if this measure is somewhere

*I know measure depends on the country/region But whatever reference of measure is good. I'm in Thailand

@AnthonyTH answer to your second question: https://github.com/catx23/now-project.eu/blob/master/projects/precious%20-%20plastic%20-%20v3/3.%20Build/Shredder/Blueprints/03_shredding%20axe.pdf

12:29 PM

I'm also building a shredder, and I have a question how's this thing called at 3:12? and where do I get one? https://youtu.be/VFIPXgrk7u0?t=192

12:35 PM

and about the tools to make threads, just measure the existing holes. it's been a while since I made threads, but you can't use the wrong tool for this, the threading tip will be either too large or too small (or just perfect)

(edited)

@Netero Great!! That helps us a lot!

My bro, bought some of those things you're looking for, I'll tell you in some minutes... (edited)

@Netero It's called Insert Bearing. You can find it here https://app.alibaba.com/dynamiclink?touchId=62095291976&type=product&schema=enalibaba%3A%2F%2Fdetail%3Fid%3D62095291976%26ck%3Dshare_detail&ck=share_detail&shareScene=buyer Or here (this is more specific) https://app.alibaba.com/dynamiclink?touchId=62013854554&type=product&schema=enalibaba%3A%2F%2Fdetail%3Fid%3D62013854554%26ck%3Dshare_detail&ck=share_detail&shareScene=buyer

Time to source smarter!

Alibaba.com App, saves you time, saves you money and saves you hassle. Global Trade on the Go!

Time to source smarter!

Alibaba.com App, saves you time, saves you money and saves you hassle. Global Trade on the Go!

1

Hi, has anyone used HHO generator concept to melt the plastic, if any one have the Blue print share to upgrade bulk size of plastic melting , with all safety measures.

I need his part for a shredder granulator

6:30 PM

Does anyone have it ^

a 300uF capacitor?

Centorion

Thanks for the input. I got it from a guy of ebay, think I still might have his number. He said it could be removed so im positve he knows how. If I am able to remove it, it seems like I would have to design a different Coupling Shaft that also relies on the same fastening method, right?

A 3 jaw gear puller is what you need to remove that... looks like you already got the set screw out; not sure where you are located but if harbor freight is a thing in your area, they have inexpensive gear pullers, get the largest size they have for that.

Bronkos

Hey guys, we are building a shredder and we have a doubt about the motor. We are aiming for a 3 HP single phase motor because we don't have 3 phase instalation the house and we can throw a 60 m cable from another 3 P connection but it's really expensive. The others ideas are putting a Single Phase to 3 phase convertor or a VFD. Any recommendations which one to use or building the 3 P system for only one motor?

You could perhaps gang 2 or three single phase motors together with a chain or gear drive

4:15 PM

Anyone have the technical diagrams for building extruder pro? Doesn't seem to be listed on the website anywhere I can find...

you have looked in the extruder workspace download kit? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

ah nope I kept finding myself in the academy/build section, thx!!

Hello! Looking for a machine shop in South East Asia. We wanna build a recycling space in Singapore!

Hi people. I'm just starting to melt some plastic in my injection machine that I just build a week ago. So I'm not an expert. The thing is the heater bands keep breaking. It was working fine, I turn it off an when I connected it again only one heater was working.. it's driving me crazy. Where should I look?

Hey @Klister what are the active wires doing under the second band heater from the top? What are they connected to?

They are connected all together in parallel. The power comes to the top one. From there to the second and the third. Then the same on the other side. Here is a picture more clear

I'd say it's the band heaters. If it is intermittent then it might not be. Maybe invest in some new heaters?

Are there any machine shops in South Eastern Asia(or in other places, though the shipping would get expensive) that would ship to Myanmar and has a reasonable/slightly cheaper price than others?

from the department of how did they do that? Upgraded shaft to 1 inch bar, and you can see the marks where the blades damaged the bar

@Butte (PP Philippines) for what I can see it broke in the reduction and for the look of it I would guess fatigue is the reason. For the next one in the change of sección I would do a more prominent radius to distribute the tensión and avoid fatigue (sorry for the english).

1

way fatigue... it was only in use less than 3 weeks. and see the marks on the shaft. this is 1 inch not the standard 20mm v3. they over rpm it

@Klister I have never seen the bands wired like that. are you sure they are not shorting between bands? They are also very close to each other, probably not the most efficient way of heating the barrel (looks long) (edited)

Butte (PP Philippines)

from the department of how did they do that? Upgraded shaft to 1 inch bar, and you can see the marks where the blades damaged the bar

Hey, Did that fail on the drive side? Do you have any pictures of the shaft right after manufacturing?

Hello, anyone on here from Scotland, or the UK? Looking at a sheetpress workspace and would be great to talk to anyone already involved in precious plastic in the UK! (edited)

PaddyGee

Hey, Did that fail on the drive side? Do you have any pictures of the shaft right after manufacturing?

failed on the drive side. 4140 hex bar, and upgraded from the usual standard to 1.5 inch hex bar and 1 inch shaft, as we had a client back 2 years ago shear the smaller shafting

1

@Butte (PP Philippines) RE: how did they do that. One area where the small shredder could use improvement is the location of the bearing. Since the screws are a clearance fit. If there is a great jolt the bearing including race can be put out of position thus stressing all the components and perhaps putting sideways forces on the shaft end. Some of those maybe absorbed by the coupler. The bearing holder once aligned could be retained in its position somehow. This is hard to do with this type of bearing but plausable, perhaps also with a custom bearing housing where a cross key or two roll pins can be used for location. On the shaft side attention should be paid to the edge where the turned down shaft meets the hex and is "faced" (the 90degree small edge before the hex). At this point there needs to be a small radius created by the tool as to not act as a stress riser significantly strengthening the shaft. In this case however it also appears that overload protection was not being enployed...Also assure to use a good quality material for the shaft, 4140 should do it. (edited)

Anyone here use a dhc2 plasma cam?

Centorion

Click to see attachment 🖼️

A sliding hammer with a pulley remover tool. Not sure where you're located but auto part stores near me like autozone have them for rental and they reimburse you when you return it so it's basically free to use their rental tools.As long as you return it in one piece.

Klister

They are connected all together in parallel. The power comes to the top one. From there to the second and the third. Then the same on the other side. Here is a picture more clear

I would definitely spread them out. They may be overheating. I would also wire them individually. Just invest in at least 1 more pid. What

Hello I'm Lartin Cedric , my association and I are looking to develop a recycling approach on Reunion Island and for that we would like to know if it was possible to have the Heat press plans ? Could not find them on the site. Thank you !

@Deleted User thanks. Will try that

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@Butte (PP Philippines) RE: how did they do that. One area where the small shredder could use improvement is the location of the bearing. Since the screws are a clearance fit. If there is a great jolt the bearing including race can be put out of position thus stressing all the components and perhaps putting sideways forces on the shaft end. Some of those maybe absorbed by the coupler. The bearing holder once aligned could be retained in its position somehow. This is hard to do with this type of bearing but plausable, perhaps also with a custom bearing housing where a cross key or two roll pins can be used for location. On the shaft side attention should be paid to the edge where the turned down shaft meets the hex and is "faced" (the 90degree small edge before the hex). At this point there needs to be a small radius created by the tool as to not act as a stress riser significantly strengthening the shaft. In this case however it also appears that overload protection was not being enployed...Also assure to use a good quality material for the shaft, 4140 should do it. (edited)

I skipped all that work and weld in a 16mm grade 8 stud bolt. my holes are 16mm for the bearing. Easy peasy. The thread rod is omitted and instead the hole opened up to accommodate a grade 5, half inch structural steel bolt. Client said he was shredding PET Gatorade bottles with it. I sent him overnight shipping a new shaft. Another possibility is just low quality steel. Looks like will have to buy the Japan or Korea steel now. Just no way at 1 ton torque that a 1 inch steel shaft should snap like that.

PET WOOL MACHINE SITE FOUND http://plasticabg.net/bg/machines/#ew

plasticabgpoint

Машини

@Butte (PP Philippines) Yea, I did the same when we build ours a couple of years ago. It is still a clearance hole on the stud to bearing holder, which is the same issue allowing things to misalign. The stud centers on the countersink when tightened and / or if it is welded but under high stress impact force the cage can move due to that clearance and misalign things. (edited)

Drizzik Sama

Hello I'm Lartin Cedric , my association and I are looking to develop a recycling approach on Reunion Island and for that we would like to know if it was possible to have the Heat press plans ? Could not find them on the site. Thank you !

you mean the sheet press? Have you looked here? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hello, Any idea how much should cost to build the Injection machine?? Any tips that will guide me will help. I´m in south America, Santa Cruz, Bolivia THANKS! (edited)

Can someone assist me with some electrical drawings of the injection machine. I asked a friend to complete the electrical installations and he would like some drawings to start from. Anyone?

@Cookieman Here’s one, doesn’t show ground wired in but your friend should know how to hook it up

1:03 AM

3

1:03 AM

good starting point anyhow

pepe_trueno

Hello, Any idea how much should cost to build the Injection machine?? Any tips that will guide me will help. I´m in south America, Santa Cruz, Bolivia THANKS! (edited)

At the injection precious plastic academy, they have an estimate for Netherlands situation. This will be varying somehow, depending on the prices in your area

1

pepe_trueno

Hello, Any idea how much should cost to build the Injection machine?? Any tips that will guide me will help. I´m in south America, Santa Cruz, Bolivia THANKS! (edited)

I'm also from south america, uruguay. But currently in Asia. Descargate primero el kit de la injection machine de la pagina de Precious Plastic y ahi ves este pdf que se llama bills of materials. *That's not the final price, you have to think about price of tools you'll be using, shippings, etc. (edited)

1

YEAP, as I see, the bill of materials on PP web was about 400$, here in Bolivia the are asking about 500$us just for the electrical parts... plus the mechanical part that they are charging about 600$US. So in total I estimate 1,000USD for the injection machine... it feels like its way tooo much. ¿Or im wrong?

I have a question about the shredder pro, in the blueprints it shows 18 teeth and 20 teeth spur gears, which ones are best and whats the difference? Thanks

pepe_trueno

YEAP, as I see, the bill of materials on PP web was about 400$, here in Bolivia the are asking about 500$us just for the electrical parts... plus the mechanical part that they are charging about 600$US. So in total I estimate 1,000USD for the injection machine... it feels like its way tooo much. ¿Or im wrong?

Yes, could be... I did an estimate at the beginning and I figured out that It'll cost no more than 1000usd. But the real cost will be very different because we've reused materials from old things (such as the metal layer of a washing machine for the hoper and an old metal box for the electrical parts) in this way we avoid buying these things reducing the price

1

AnthonyTH

Yes, could be... I did an estimate at the beginning and I figured out that It'll cost no more than 1000usd. But the real cost will be very different because we've reused materials from old things (such as the metal layer of a washing machine for the hoper and an old metal box for the electrical parts) in this way we avoid buying these things reducing the price

Thanks

***US Motor Selection Help Hi team - looking at this motor from automation direct for the Shredder pro- https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors_-_inverter_duty/inverter_duty_(with_and_without_encoder)/mtcp2-005-3bd18c its 5hp at 1800 revolutions. which if my online calculators are right, thats about 20 N.m. So with a 60:1 gearbox, it would be going a little fast at 30 rpm, and it would only be putting out 1200 N.m which is the minimum the guide calls for. Can somebody check me on this? am I thinking correctly?

Premium Efficiency AC Motor: general purpose and inverter duty, 5hp...

MTCP2-005-3BD18C - IronHorse premium efficiency AC induction motor, general purpose and inverter duty, 5hp, 3-phase, 230/460 VAC, suitable for 208 VAC at...

TEglen

***US Motor Selection Help Hi team - looking at this motor from automation direct for the Shredder pro- https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors_-_inverter_duty/inverter_duty_(with_and_without_encoder)/mtcp2-005-3bd18c its 5hp at 1800 revolutions. which if my online calculators are right, thats about 20 N.m. So with a 60:1 gearbox, it would be going a little fast at 30 rpm, and it would only be putting out 1200 N.m which is the minimum the guide calls for. Can somebody check me on this? am I thinking correctly?

there is an online app created from a community member, in order to help people find proper motor-gearbox combinations. i just can't remember how to locate it...

spiros nik

there is an online app created from a community member, in order to help people find proper motor-gearbox combinations. i just can't remember how to locate it...

ohhhh, sounds perfect. Maybe somebody can help locate it.

i think i saw it at some monthly news video. if you have the will to check at these videos descriptions, you might be able to find the link...

spiros nik

i think i saw it at some monthly news video. if you have the will to check at these videos descriptions, you might be able to find the link...

you thinking recent? or somewhere far back?

i would say somewhat recent. probably in the last year's...

i found a downloadable excel version of it in this post https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/will-it-shred/

1

perfect, I'll dig in, then circle back around with results. Sidebar: this makes me wish there was a resource/spreadsheet where everybody posted their working motor/gearbox models, with links for purchasing. this way others in a similar situation could quick reference and make informed choices. unless something out there is currently filling this purpose? (edited)

1

TEglen

***US Motor Selection Help Hi team - looking at this motor from automation direct for the Shredder pro- https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors_-_inverter_duty/inverter_duty_(with_and_without_encoder)/mtcp2-005-3bd18c its 5hp at 1800 revolutions. which if my online calculators are right, thats about 20 N.m. So with a 60:1 gearbox, it would be going a little fast at 30 rpm, and it would only be putting out 1200 N.m which is the minimum the guide calls for. Can somebody check me on this? am I thinking correctly?

We use a similar model and it works well. Just make sure the mechanical output torque of your gearbox meets the desired Nm output.

I was worried, because my calculations were putting me really low on the Nm output - only 1200. But 5hp plus a mega gearbox seemed like a good amount. Do you run 5hp? @CitSciWorkshop

Yes we do! A good gearbox should be able to get you in the 1400-1600Nm range. Pricy at this size though in US

okay, it feels good to hear you say that - I was seeing the mega price tags and thinking I was way off base. Do you think automation direct has just as good of prices as anybody else? or is there a secret better supplier out there?

12:27 AM

@spiros nik I worked with the old spreadsheet, but its only for V1 shredders, so the calculations are of course relevant, but the grading system is way too forgiving for V4. Thanks for the sheet though - looking at the calculations is helpful.

Hi everyone! I'm about to carve some molds in aluminum tomorrow using my X-Carve CNC machine!, Some one has any tips and tricks???

@TEglen here's the web version of the will it shred app https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/

@pauldufour thank you!

Also @TEglen are you on the US PP or Canadian PP servers? i'll send an invite - more people there with NA-specific knowledge to share

oh thank you for that, US

for school i have access to a cnc mill and i can make something for myself but i dont know what to create so who needs a mold?

1

does anybody have time estimates for how long it takes to build the machines?

GusMerckel

Hi everyone! I'm about to carve some molds in aluminum tomorrow using my X-Carve CNC machine!, Some one has any tips and tricks???

Hey Gus, I’ve run a number of molds on my openbuilds style CNC router, and would be happy to share some tips WD-40 or straight kerosene makes for a great cutting fluid for aluminium, and I’ve found it dramatically improves surface finish while reducing tool wear. Try and opt for the shortest and thickest endmill you can use, as rigidity is an absolute premium on these hobby level machines. I use a solid carbide 6mm endmill to do 95% of my roughing, and only use the smaller bits when absolutely necessary. In terms of mold design and machining, make sure you’ve got features for locating the two halves of the mold with eachother (pins, or grooves), and that the top of your mold is machined flat. You can’t really trust aluminium extrusion to be flat and straight. Also, you haven’t mentioned what CAM software you’re using, but if you’re not already using it, consider fusion360. The adaptive toolpaths and the ability to do rest machining have saved me time and money. Hopefully this is helpful, and let us know how you go!

1

Isometric

Hey Gus, I’ve run a number of molds on my openbuilds style CNC router, and would be happy to share some tips WD-40 or straight kerosene makes for a great cutting fluid for aluminium, and I’ve found it dramatically improves surface finish while reducing tool wear. Try and opt for the shortest and thickest endmill you can use, as rigidity is an absolute premium on these hobby level machines. I use a solid carbide 6mm endmill to do 95% of my roughing, and only use the smaller bits when absolutely necessary. In terms of mold design and machining, make sure you’ve got features for locating the two halves of the mold with eachother (pins, or grooves), and that the top of your mold is machined flat. You can’t really trust aluminium extrusion to be flat and straight. Also, you haven’t mentioned what CAM software you’re using, but if you’re not already using it, consider fusion360. The adaptive toolpaths and the ability to do rest machining have saved me time and money. Hopefully this is helpful, and let us know how you go!

what feeds and speeds are you using in general?

@CitSciWorkshop Here are some general numbers 6mm 2 flute endmill 16k rpm, 2400mm/m Usually around 2mm DOC when adaptive roughing 3mm 2 flute endmill 10k rpm, 760mm/m Can run it around 0.7-1mm DOC adaptive, but gotta be careful when doing non adaptive toolpaths, especially slotting/contouring tool paths, so i usually bump it down to 0.3 for those. These feeds and speeds are what work for me with my machine, and they could definitely be pushed a little harder. However for the work I do I'm happy to sacrifice a couple minutes on the machine in exchange for peace of mind that the toolpath will work and I'm not snapping tools left and right.

You can run small Endmills always with higher rpm than bigger ones - the 3mm can probably do 24-40k rpm. And use ethanol instead for cooling - unless you cut in steel.

https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/ https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/will-it-shred/ (edited)

1

Frederik C (ZA) pinned a message to this channel. 1/15/2021 8:55 AM

Isometric

Hey Gus, I’ve run a number of molds on my openbuilds style CNC router, and would be happy to share some tips WD-40 or straight kerosene makes for a great cutting fluid for aluminium, and I’ve found it dramatically improves surface finish while reducing tool wear. Try and opt for the shortest and thickest endmill you can use, as rigidity is an absolute premium on these hobby level machines. I use a solid carbide 6mm endmill to do 95% of my roughing, and only use the smaller bits when absolutely necessary. In terms of mold design and machining, make sure you’ve got features for locating the two halves of the mold with eachother (pins, or grooves), and that the top of your mold is machined flat. You can’t really trust aluminium extrusion to be flat and straight. Also, you haven’t mentioned what CAM software you’re using, but if you’re not already using it, consider fusion360. The adaptive toolpaths and the ability to do rest machining have saved me time and money. Hopefully this is helpful, and let us know how you go!

Thanks for the tips! I will consider it for sure. I'm using Fusion 360 with Easel, which is the CAM for my CNC, but it's quite limited, that's why I generate the gcode with Fusion 360!!

1

@🤙v4-team hi, do you have wiring picture inside the panel? I have trouble with wiring one pid with 3 ssr. It only switch off 1 ssr while other two keep switch on even the reading temp. already over the target temp.

1

@GusMerckel hey dude! I cut ally all day every day on my 6040, best Tips I can offer are the following. For lower power machines like ours, use smaller tools if possible. 3.175mm or 1/8th inch single flute carbide. Run at 20k rpm - freaking as fast as you can, and move at 1000mm m. Don’t go more than .5mm depth. Lube with methylated spirits in a garden sprayer (not sure what it’s called in your neck of the woods) I’ve found wd-40 to be WAY too messy and expensive, also it ruins the potential to weld down the line. Took me a lot of tools breaking to get there, but now I only replace tools when they get dull

and cuts clean as a whistle (assuming you lube with the metho

1

10:31 AM

1

10:32 AM

ramdhan_PPB

@🤙v4-team hi, do you have wiring picture inside the panel? I have trouble with wiring one pid with 3 ssr. It only switch off 1 ssr while other two keep switch on even the reading temp. already over the target temp.

Show us a picture of your wiring please.

Hey everyone! I'm a high school student from Norway, and in one of our classes we have a youth-company where we are trying to build the injection machine. Right now we are trying to figure out what kind of electronics we should buy. I was wondering where you bought your parts and what parts you bought. The solid state relay (SSR) and PID controller is what i wonder the most about. The SSR in the precious plastic video goes from 24V to 380, but i wonder what ampere it is. I have found a SSR with 100 ampere and a SSR with 40 ampere (in a package with PID controller and thermocouple). Which should we choose? https://tinyurl.com/yxcqekaz https://tinyurl.com/yyvdcpku (links to ebay)

24V-380V SSR-100AA 100A AC-AC Solid State Relay Module Temperature ...

1 Pc x Relay Module. Size: Length: 6.3cm（2.48in） ,Wide: 4.5cm（1.77in）,High: 2.4cm (0.94in). Note: Due to the difference between different monitors, the picture may not reflect the actual color of the item.

Digital LCD PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller Set +K Thermocouple...

Output Current : 40A. 1 x Max.40A SSR. K Thermocouple Probe Cable. Temperature rang : 0 to 400℃（U can install to 1300 ℃ K Thermocouple Probe(not included) ）. Max.40A SSR. Detective temperature range : 0 to 1300℃.

@BotPlays Does not matter your heater has <300W/unit - at 4 units = 1200W = 5,2A =< 40/100A

assembling the shredder. Do you know where these 2 pieces are placed? They are left over and I don't know where to put them

@AnthonyTH those are for mesh holder. You fit them and weld together with the parts lying next to shredder

The curved ones. (edited)

For this pieces... you need 2 "Sieve Side"

@magi SVK @PPCapiSpain

ohh haha thanks!!! I'll finish it up now

so excited

@SIMMO THE GREAT look up "huntimg tooth" If I am not mistaking the combination of two dissimilar gears assures the gear and in this case the blade shredder point alternates as per the dissimilar ratio. You could likely find two identical gears with the correct pitch and center distance to make that work. However this is what the designers went with likely for the aforementioned reason. So what is the difference... you need one of each dissimilar gears for each shaft. With the current setup you can't use just one type for both shafts, it has to be one each. You can play with the relative speeds a little by switching them around relative to the shafts.

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) that makes sense, when I looked at the plans I thought it was 2 of each to use the same together. I thought it was because of the verity of the motors you could use.

@BotPlays I would take the second, as its a kit which is supposed to work. Probably you might want to get a heatsink for the SSR also: https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-240VAC-PID-REX-C100-Temperature-Controller-SSR-40A-Thermocouple-Heat-Sink/383555435897?hash=item594daf7d79:g:Fh8AAOSwNsVfVhJ3

100-240VAC PID REX-C100 Temperature Controller SSR-40A Thermocouple...

Max.40A SSR. 1 x Max.40A SSR. Aluminum Alloy Heat Sink. 1 X Heat Sink. Compatible with:Designed specially for single phase solid state relay. ◈ Toggle Switch. Detective temperature range: 0 to 900 Celsius.

Hello everyone, does anyone happen to know where you can order heating elements in Belgium?

Hello guys, I am kind of still confused between extrusion and injection machines, and which of them best fits my proposed product. I am willing to make solid (not hollow) bricks. can I use extruders for this with proper mould or it has to be injection machines? and why?

with injection machines you are able to produce smaller products. The PP injection machine has a barrel volume of 150cm^2 and supposedely this is the limit, although i ve seen things double the volume getting injected. But genera;;y for bigger products you will need the extrusion machine. You could also do the bigger products with a small press, but the process would be really slower.

Hello, im having trouble finding and buying the electric parts for the Injector (and herein Bolivia its expensive) so Im looking to buy them on Ebay, but I will like someone to see if the pieces in looking are the right ones... Thanks for any input you can give me...

9:19 PM

9:21 PM

Ps, my injection tube has 40mm diameter, becouse I coundnt find it as in the blueprints (20mm I believe) ¿Will that be any problem? THANKS FOR THE HELP!! (edited)

pepe_trueno

Hello, im having trouble finding and buying the electric parts for the Injector (and herein Bolivia its expensive) so Im looking to buy them on Ebay, but I will like someone to see if the pieces in looking are the right ones... Thanks for any input you can give me...

I don't have previous experience with any of these apart from the SSR (which are really sweet!). Looking at the REX-C100 datasheet, it looks like it can already have an output relay rated to 3A depending on the exact variant. Is the one you are purchasing the non-relay output variant? I was looking here (https://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf)

PaddyGee

I don't have previous experience with any of these apart from the SSR (which are really sweet!). Looking at the REX-C100 datasheet, it looks like it can already have an output relay rated to 3A depending on the exact variant. Is the one you are purchasing the non-relay output variant? I was looking here (https://www.mpja.com/download/rex-c100.pdf)

Thanks!! Im looking into it, let you know

DUAL GRILL HEAT ELEMENT - has anyone used one of these and if so, I have a question about connecting it to my circuit. Thanks

anyone on here build machines

Emric

DUAL GRILL HEAT ELEMENT - has anyone used one of these and if so, I have a question about connecting it to my circuit. Thanks

I mean, I have used one for food

Curious to hear what your question is?

PaddyGee

I mean, I have used one for food

Curious to hear what your question is?

So, I have my circuit set up, receiving 13amps 240V. The grill element has two terminals so either element can be controlled separately, questions are: 1. Can I simply attach one wire to the two, so both pos and both neg rather than having four wires? 2. I am assuming that the element can take 13amps, as heat elements are a resistor so to speak. Just want to check this before I use it and overheat it because I didn’t add some resistance to the current hitting the element. 3. Do I need to earth a heat element separately?

Emric

So, I have my circuit set up, receiving 13amps 240V. The grill element has two terminals so either element can be controlled separately, questions are: 1. Can I simply attach one wire to the two, so both pos and both neg rather than having four wires? 2. I am assuming that the element can take 13amps, as heat elements are a resistor so to speak. Just want to check this before I use it and overheat it because I didn’t add some resistance to the current hitting the element. 3. Do I need to earth a heat element separately?

If I understand correctly: 1) Yes, this would simply run the heating elements in parallel mode. I would suspect that the original designers of the grill would have tailored the resistance of each of the loops to have them produce a different heating power, with out having to bother with the rather expensive (when making a product) job of having two voltage sources. I would suspect measuring the resistances of the loops will help provide some insight here. See the attached picture I took from another stove manual. 2) When in a grill, the coils are probably controlled by a duty-cycle thermostat (guess), so just hooking them up to line power might overheat them anyway, regardless of how they are connected to the mains power. That is, they may need a duty cycle all the time. They are just resistors on the inside, so as long as the voltage is the same from what the grill was running on, they will take the same current that the grill used to run on. Might have to look up in the datasheet for the original grill to see if this is below the 13A your circuit can provide. I would suspect that in a plastic recycling situation, having temperature feedback control is going to be vital, so maybe that is something to incorporate now? 3) If I understand what you mean by separately, then I suggest no, I would make sure that the structure supporting the grill element is grounded along with all of the casing, but no different from any other power device. Thoughts? rebuttals?

PaddyGee

If I understand correctly: 1) Yes, this would simply run the heating elements in parallel mode. I would suspect that the original designers of the grill would have tailored the resistance of each of the loops to have them produce a different heating power, with out having to bother with the rather expensive (when making a product) job of having two voltage sources. I would suspect measuring the resistances of the loops will help provide some insight here. See the attached picture I took from another stove manual. 2) When in a grill, the coils are probably controlled by a duty-cycle thermostat (guess), so just hooking them up to line power might overheat them anyway, regardless of how they are connected to the mains power. That is, they may need a duty cycle all the time. They are just resistors on the inside, so as long as the voltage is the same from what the grill was running on, they will take the same current that the grill used to run on. Might have to look up in the datasheet for the original grill to see if this is below the 13A your circuit can provide. I would suspect that in a plastic recycling situation, having temperature feedback control is going to be vital, so maybe that is something to incorporate now? 3) If I understand what you mean by separately, then I suggest no, I would make sure that the structure supporting the grill element is grounded along with all of the casing, but no different from any other power device. Thoughts? rebuttals?

Brilliant thanks Paddy! With 2. - I have it all wired up to a thermocouple and SSR etc so as soon as it reaches the required temp, it will shut off. That’s basically an equivalent of a duty cycle thermostat? Correct me if I’m wrong. I will get looking up the data sheet for it. That’s a massive help!

Emric

Brilliant thanks Paddy! With 2. - I have it all wired up to a thermocouple and SSR etc so as soon as it reaches the required temp, it will shut off. That’s basically an equivalent of a duty cycle thermostat? Correct me if I’m wrong. I will get looking up the data sheet for it. That’s a massive help!

Nice! SSRs are my favourite. I had two more thoughts walking home. It wouldn't be able to sleep if I didn't say 'fuse everything' and 'turn it on from far away'

, 240V always gives me the creeps . Secondly, I figured if you wanted more granulate temperature control and the SSR couldn't switch fast enough, you could wire the heating coils in series. You might loose a bit of the top end power, but the increased resistance should provide a bit finer control. Interested to see what you are working on!

PaddyGee

Nice! SSRs are my favourite. I had two more thoughts walking home. It wouldn't be able to sleep if I didn't say 'fuse everything' and 'turn it on from far away'

, 240V always gives me the creeps . Secondly, I figured if you wanted more granulate temperature control and the SSR couldn't switch fast enough, you could wire the heating coils in series. You might loose a bit of the top end power, but the increased resistance should provide a bit finer control. Interested to see what you are working on!

Thanks Paddy! Yeh I will share the set up etc with you, nearly there with starting the compressor. Atm, apart from the socket 13amp fuse, that’s it... and I have a DPST switch attached to turn it all on and off from the box. If you can recommend any fuses that would be great. Appreciate your considerations

Emric

Thanks Paddy! Yeh I will share the set up etc with you, nearly there with starting the compressor. Atm, apart from the socket 13amp fuse, that’s it... and I have a DPST switch attached to turn it all on and off from the box. If you can recommend any fuses that would be great. Appreciate your considerations

Oh I see, sorry, to jump in with another point. I would be wary of relying on the socket fuse. My thought would be to measure the resistance of the heater wire. Calculate the current you expect them to draw at 240V (https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html). Multiple by maybe 1.2 or 1.4 depending on how aggressive you are feeling, and then put an inline fuse on the heat circuit (after the SSR) for that calculated current value. These inline fuse holders from Digikey are great and kinda easy to install (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/littelfuse-inc/01500332H/3425489). The issue I would see is in the case that your heating elements only end up drawing 3A (which would still mean they are 600W+), then you have to have a failure that draws 10 A more before it's noticed by the socket fuse. Ideally, you want the failure noticed very quickly, so maybe a 4A fuse. That 10A extra could be....well....interesting.

Hey there, can someone explain how to sell a product on the Bazar? Our account is already updated/ approved, but there is no field or section to add a product?

Thinking of using 208v instead of 380v motors. If the watts are the same, what else will change? (Other than amps, of course) efficiency? Torque? Wire thickness? Is it important to use higher voltage for optimal productivity?

Abe

Thinking of using 208v instead of 380v motors. If the watts are the same, what else will change? (Other than amps, of course) efficiency? Torque? Wire thickness? Is it important to use higher voltage for optimal productivity?

your torque ratings can be similar. Check the amperage rating throughout your electrical system based on the motor specs you choose. I would also verify you're using 208 service, and not 240.

To all you amazing machine artisans: Are there any sheet press machines being sold in NA or open source plans for a sheet press machine in imperial?

QiTech Industries

Hey there, can someone explain how to sell a product on the Bazar? Our account is already updated/ approved, but there is no field or section to add a product?

Hey @QiTech Industries , do you reached this site? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/Account_Setup (edited)

Plastic Paradigm

To all you amazing machine artisans: Are there any sheet press machines being sold in NA or open source plans for a sheet press machine in imperial?

tom and michael from v4 built one in oregon last year. michael's gone but tom's around and might be available. idk if he is on discord... i just sent him a message on IG to see if he is

Thanks @pauldufour

Isometric

Hey Gus, I’ve run a number of molds on my openbuilds style CNC router, and would be happy to share some tips WD-40 or straight kerosene makes for a great cutting fluid for aluminium, and I’ve found it dramatically improves surface finish while reducing tool wear. Try and opt for the shortest and thickest endmill you can use, as rigidity is an absolute premium on these hobby level machines. I use a solid carbide 6mm endmill to do 95% of my roughing, and only use the smaller bits when absolutely necessary. In terms of mold design and machining, make sure you’ve got features for locating the two halves of the mold with eachother (pins, or grooves), and that the top of your mold is machined flat. You can’t really trust aluminium extrusion to be flat and straight. Also, you haven’t mentioned what CAM software you’re using, but if you’re not already using it, consider fusion360. The adaptive toolpaths and the ability to do rest machining have saved me time and money. Hopefully this is helpful, and let us know how you go!

we are fond of coconut oil as cutting oil. It works surprisingly well. It is very umm sticky, but cleans easily with denatured alcohol, unlike mineral based oils which require paint thinner and extra work to prep for paint. Not to mention, its not hazmat when it gets on the floor.

1

4:36 AM

Am I the only person here getting calls for BIGGER shredders? Several calls for shredders in the 20hp range from local governments. Checking the local online vendors I see 20hp brand new diesels at almost the same cost as my 5hp Teco electric motors. Was thinking I could double or triple my shredder capacity.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Am I the only person here getting calls for BIGGER shredders? Several calls for shredders in the 20hp range from local governments. Checking the local online vendors I see 20hp brand new diesels at almost the same cost as my 5hp Teco electric motors. Was thinking I could double or triple my shredder capacity.

It is good to upgrade to bigger shredder, we are currently test running our V1 shredder driving by 20hp motor, by this week we will finally get it up for use, our target is majorly for pet.

1

Hello, I am currently in the process of building a shredder. I am now in Thailand and would like to be able to discuss with others who have been through the process before.

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Hey @QiTech Industries , do you reached this site? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/business/Account_Setup (edited)

Hey thanks for your reply

Already figured it out after contacting the Bazar Support.

7:46 AM

Good morning everyone I build this injection molding machine and the wedding mold but is giving me one problem the upper handle bend when I inject the materials into the wedding mold and the result of the wedding mold is not good enough for me the materials don't full the mold. Please I need help

@ajiroba Try to pre-heat the mould to ~80deg C this helps with material flow. Let some material flow out before you attach the mould to make sure no cold material is in the front. Attach the mould as fast as possible. That should get you started!

@paulo121 wow, like to see some pictures from your 20hp on V1. I am gonna say be very careful. I think 5hp is possibly too much for that....awesome though if that can work safely.

Hi all! My name is Emily, I'm new here. I'm from NYC and was wondering if anyone knows someone who is working on/has the bio press? I'm super interested on making one!

emily gordin

Hi all! My name is Emily, I'm new here. I'm from NYC and was wondering if anyone knows someone who is working on/has the bio press? I'm super interested on making one!

hi emily, i'm also in the US. I'm building a biopress and i know there are a few other north americans here interested in doing so as well. happy to help however is useful :)

pauldufour

hi emily, i'm also in the US. I'm building a biopress and i know there are a few other north americans here interested in doing so as well. happy to help however is useful :)

Hi! awesome! Where in the US are you located? Do you have an insta? maybe we can chat there? mine is emgordin

1

Hi all! My name is Cory, and I am starting to work on creating a plastic injection machine. I’m looking to build an injection machine to make disc golf discs, as a project for me and my son. I recently discovered precious plastic Melbourne and where they had posted a recent video of using a hydraulic wood splitter for their machine. I really liked that idea. My only concern is if I could use that setup to use for disc golf discs, which would require 180 gram capacity to use. I reached out to them on YouTube, and they recommended me reach out here. Any ideas? I’ll post the YouTube video I am referencing below.

Southpaw123

Hi all! My name is Cory, and I am starting to work on creating a plastic injection machine. I’m looking to build an injection machine to make disc golf discs, as a project for me and my son. I recently discovered precious plastic Melbourne and where they had posted a recent video of using a hydraulic wood splitter for their machine. I really liked that idea. My only concern is if I could use that setup to use for disc golf discs, which would require 180 gram capacity to use. I reached out to them on YouTube, and they recommended me reach out here. Any ideas? I’ll post the YouTube video I am referencing below.

https://youtu.be/uR8wmNgJvdU

Precious Plastic Melbourne

How We Built It: Precious Plastic injection mould machine + 5T hydr...

Southpaw123

Hi all! My name is Cory, and I am starting to work on creating a plastic injection machine. I’m looking to build an injection machine to make disc golf discs, as a project for me and my son. I recently discovered precious plastic Melbourne and where they had posted a recent video of using a hydraulic wood splitter for their machine. I really liked that idea. My only concern is if I could use that setup to use for disc golf discs, which would require 180 gram capacity to use. I reached out to them on YouTube, and they recommended me reach out here. Any ideas? I’ll post the YouTube video I am referencing below.

Hey Cory! Check this out. You should be able to make a mix of both machines. https://youtu.be/uo9PGfOjhCQ

Trash Panda Disc Golf

Injection Machine 2.0 | Making a Recycled Disc Pt. 9

paulo121

It is good to upgrade to bigger shredder, we are currently test running our V1 shredder driving by 20hp motor, by this week we will finally get it up for use, our target is majorly for pet.

biggest we did was the v3 shredder with 7hp, and we did a double size v3 (cloned two shredders together in CAD and made a new one)

Piers

Hey Cory! Check this out. You should be able to make a mix of both machines. https://youtu.be/uo9PGfOjhCQ

Thanks for the reply! I have actually been collaborating with Jesse at Trash Panda for a couple of months now. I am looking at how long(or thick)I would need to make the barrel to be in order to make the log splitter work where It would be able to fill a mold big enough for a 172-180 gram disc.

I am making the same machine and had basically the same question, as the moulds displayed in the video were 35grams

1:47 PM

I have currently been making disks using a different method

2

1:51 PM

3

1:51 PM

I have the log splitter to base this off and would be happy to send you any dimensions that you may need

Hey. I am trying to build Shredder Pro. Maybe someone could answer on my questions

1. Why are some spacers made from Hardox, and some are made from common steel? 2. Can I use something else instead Hardox (common steel maybe)? Thanks!

Hey I am going to build a Extruder (non pro) for school. what amound of kw motor is recommended for a auger drill?

Vector

I have the log splitter to base this off and would be happy to send you any dimensions that you may need

Were your discs around 170grams?

urpylka

Hey. I am trying to build Shredder Pro. Maybe someone could answer on my questions

1. Why are some spacers made from Hardox, and some are made from common steel? 2. Can I use something else instead Hardox (common steel maybe)? Thanks!

I see no reason for the blade spacers to be made of hardox, after all they’re not doing any cutting. May be a mistake in the plans. To be clear, I’m talking about the parts which seperate the circular shaped blades on the axle, not the fixed blades on the frame of the shredder. Those do have to be hardox to resist wear.

Southpaw123

Were your discs around 170grams?

I will have to check the weight of them

Isometric

I see no reason for the blade spacers to be made of hardox, after all they’re not doing any cutting. May be a mistake in the plans. To be clear, I’m talking about the parts which seperate the circular shaped blades on the axle, not the fixed blades on the frame of the shredder. Those do have to be hardox to resist wear.

Thanks. I think it mistake too.

Hi friends, I am from Cambodia and currently we're looking to build and extruder machine. However it is very hard to find a Motorreductor motor with a Hollow shaft of 30mm here locally.

8:50 AM

I am wondering is there any ways we can modified it with normal motor?

im having trouble finding a 26ID 34OD seamless pipe. does anyone know where i can buy one. i live in the netherlands

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@paulo121 wow, like to see some pictures from your 20hp on V1. I am gonna say be very careful. I think 5hp is possibly too much for that....awesome though if that can work safely.

Still perfecting to see the finishing touches, if we don't forget we will respond to your request..

Because we have so much at hand in the machine shop.......

@Isometric there is pressure on those when the plastic bunches up and the cutters get real close to them., you can likely get away with it for a little while - if it needs to be hardox that maybe debatable. (edited)

I have been trying to design a die for the red component. but I'm overwhelmed by the many types of dies. which one do you think will be appropriate to design the red component? Has anybody had to design dies? can you share the dos and donts in die design or point me to resources that might help? thank you (edited)

3D PRINTERS - do you have a 3D printer? Do you print using recycled filament? Are you open for business in printing custom 3D parts? If yes, let me know

Emric

3D PRINTERS - do you have a 3D printer? Do you print using recycled filament? Are you open for business in printing custom 3D parts? If yes, let me know

there's a channel called 3d-printing (https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/783423267821584416) IT would be more useful to ask there

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spiros nik

there's a channel called 3d-printing (https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/783423267821584416) IT would be more useful to ask there

Thanks mate! I appreciate it, I will do

Working on my shredder design. part machined from solid (39NiCrMo3 steel), tight gap between blades (~0.05mm), positive cutting angles, made to run on a fraction of the power of the standard PP one. I'm waiting to have the enclosure machined, maybe next week. (edited)

2

8:45 PM

4

6:23 PM

Today I cleaned the blades from all the burrs with a deburrer and an oil stone,the blades are very tight between themselves. So tight that I tried to rotate one of them (by hand) with a snack wrap in between and it was shredded without problems. (edited)

2

6:24 PM

1

Hello, is there a laser file for the sieve V 2.0-1? ..the screen portion?

HoboMachinist

Hello, is there a laser file for the sieve V 2.0-1? ..the screen portion?

I believe that is generally just cut out of perforated sheet steel. Wouldn't need to laser unless you have a custom hole size or layout in mind.

CitSciWorkshop

I believe that is generally just cut out of perforated sheet steel. Wouldn't need to laser unless you have a custom hole size or layout in mind.

Okay thank you. I was wondering. I'm only finding expanded steel in my searches! "Perforated" might yield better results

HoboMachinist

Okay thank you. I was wondering. I'm only finding expanded steel in my searches! "Perforated" might yield better results

or keyword "mesh" too.

CitSciWorkshop

or keyword "mesh" too.

I will. Trying to get a quote on laser cutting/waterjet and wasnt sure if the sieve also needed laser cut.

1

Anyone have a online source that supplies the steel plate/sheet in metric thicknesses? been hunting online for a while with no luck.

MAKING A MACHINE TO SELL - does anyone know the legal ramifications of making a machine and selling it? Does it need pak testing? CE marking? As the Bazar shows so many people making and selling products, what do they need to consider when selling?

Ce is pretty rare for sure..

HoboMachinist

Anyone have a online source that supplies the steel plate/sheet in metric thicknesses? been hunting online for a while with no luck.

Are you in North America?

CitSciWorkshop

Are you in North America?

Hi sorry for the delay. Yes I am. So ive even gone as far as doing this. The closest thicknesses in Imperial...but...i dont see why its proving so difficult to find steel plates in metric that are wider than a few inches.

HoboMachinist

Hi sorry for the delay. Yes I am. So ive even gone as far as doing this. The closest thicknesses in Imperial...but...i dont see why its proving so difficult to find steel plates in metric that are wider than a few inches.

I buy imperial size plate 3/16" (4.76mm) thick , and use a set of files in imperial units for the 2.1 shredder. Also have a laser, if you need help to cut files. (edited)

12:32 AM

@HoboMachinist

Shredder_Imperial.zip

7.85 MB

Hi, which raw material could be great for a shredder

CitSciWorkshop

@HoboMachinist

YES Thank you! that saves me so much work.

CitSciWorkshop

I buy imperial size plate 3/16" (4.76mm) thick , and use a set of files in imperial units for the 2.1 shredder. Also have a laser, if you need help to cut files. (edited)

Also yes I'd Like to inquire about your laser cutting services. You can Email me at HoboMachinist@gmail.com

Awesome work @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna !!! Will you harden/grind those blades?

Hey, Its me again.I showed the Extruder Pro Screw to a guy who is building Filament Extruders and he claimed that I would at least need 10hp to run this thing, wich got me a bit confused. Does anyone of you know how to calculate the right screw sizing (Extruder) for your motor?

Fritz @easymoulds

Awesome work @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna !!! Will you harden/grind those blades?

Thank you! No, at the moment I want to try to see how it works without hardening since I want to avoid any distortion or oxidation of the teeths, we haven't a grinding machine. Probably the steel I used is enough hard (is quench tempered to ~280Brinnell). If it wears out fast, I can re-shape the teeth and harden them by induction hardening. We made some hardened parts at job, but we are used to work them on the lathe with CBN inserts after hardening, and that method on a heavily interrupted cut like that is a big issue.

1

Hi where can I find a motor for the shredder i am actually watching to create a community point in France

@A&Ω I would advice having a look at your second hand sites. There are some pretty good deals on there.

Ty

Vector

I have the log splitter to base this off and would be happy to send you any dimensions that you may need

https://youtu.be/8754MF38AAQ we also did the injection molding machine with the log splitter. This is our 4th modified log splitter. We made a fixed barrel and moving piston. Also upgraded the barrel from pipe to machined 4140 42mm round bar stock. This let us use bigger heat bands and more Thermal mass for stable temps. Also look at getting commercial type electronic enclosure, heat shields and finger guards. Product liability is going to be a issue when moving past bespoke builds.

Precious Plastic Philippines

DIY Hydraulic injection molding machine for the workshop

2

Emric

3D PRINTERS - do you have a 3D printer? Do you print using recycled filament? Are you open for business in printing custom 3D parts? If yes, let me know

To be frank.. the entire journey that brought me to Precious Plastic was because of injection molding 3d printer parts as printing was too slow

hello, I would like to ask a question about the sheetpress, I read in the cons list that the sheet size is 1m x 1m, while most manufacturers work with 1220 x 1220. What was the reason to specifically choose 1m x 1m?

Matthijs Houtsma

hello, I would like to ask a question about the sheetpress, I read in the cons list that the sheet size is 1m x 1m, while most manufacturers work with 1220 x 1220. What was the reason to specifically choose 1m x 1m?

there's an updated 1.5m^2 sheetpress design on the how-to's https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

I'm looking at the Extruder Pro, and I'm wondering if a 1.75 die could be fitted to make 3D printing filament?

5:15 PM

I can't seem to find many details on fitting shaped dies however :/

i dont think it is difficult to fit an 1.75 die. You ll need more equipment in order to produce filament though. cooling line, spooler etc

Hello all, I'm newcomer on this site, I would' like to buy a plastic crusher . Is it possible?

plastic cruizer?

@Vindaloovians When extruding Filament u usually don't use an 1.75mm die. The Diameter is controlled by the pulling speed

Tony1954

Hello all, I'm newcomer on this site, I would' like to buy a plastic crusher . Is it possible?

if by plastic crusher you mean shredder though you can have a look at the bazaar

Centorion

@Vindaloovians When extruding Filament u usually don't use an 1.75mm die. The Diameter is controlled by the pulling speed

How so? The commercially available filament extruders seem to work on that principle

thanks spiros it's exactly what I mean , I look for

5:53 PM

There is somewhere a shop where it possible to buy this device? I'm live in Belgium

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/

Precious Plastic Machines

thanks a lot spiros

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Click to see attachment 🖼️

I realy like your design, do you have any drawings i could have a look at

seandroid

I realy like your design, do you have any drawings i could have a look at

At the moment I can't, I have only a paper copy because my PC is dead...and my smartphone had an accident related to my cat (never leave a phone on a table if you have a cat who like falling objects...

) and I can't make decent photos. If you look at the parts you can see I used the panoramic lens, the only one that focus the image, but it can't show good details of a design. However, nothing impossible to explain. A 89.8mm diameter solid rod with 15 grooves, spaced 16mm between eachoter, from 89.9 to 49.7mm,grooves are large 8+0.02/+0.04mm, leaving "disks" of a thickness of 8-0.02/-0.04mm. After the grooving I made 8 slots per disk with a 12mm end mill, 7.5mm deep, spaced 45° between eachoter. Every disk has a starting point for the milling rotated by 1/16 of 45° to make them on a spiral pattern. Obviously the starting point is shifted in positive for one shaft and in negative for the other because the shaft are turning in opposite direction, to allow the teeths of the blade working on a regular "flow" of cutting.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/8754MF38AAQ we also did the injection molding machine with the log splitter. This is our 4th modified log splitter. We made a fixed barrel and moving piston. Also upgraded the barrel from pipe to machined 4140 42mm round bar stock. This let us use bigger heat bands and more Thermal mass for stable temps. Also look at getting commercial type electronic enclosure, heat shields and finger guards. Product liability is going to be a issue when moving past bespoke builds.

Thanks for that, This is the idea i was playing with. much prefer the moving piston design as there's less stress on the machine and you dont have the nozzle moving around.

4:43 PM

@Butte (PP Philippines) is your shredder motor from a shop winch?

4:46 PM

Hi there, I have been thinking in investing in a machine. I was wondering one thing though, can you do injection molding with an extrusion or extrusion pro system? Has anyone had any experience with this?

Hello, i have been looking at this proshredder files and documents. I see there is no specific engine listed,just some parameters. Power (W) 2,2 to 4 KW Voltage (V) 400 V Amperage (AMP) 16 A Do i need some Nm and tourqe info to choose engine?

GeorgeH

Hi there, I have been thinking in investing in a machine. I was wondering one thing though, can you do injection molding with an extrusion or extrusion pro system? Has anyone had any experience with this?

I was wondering the same thing and when asked i was told that you cannot do injection molding with an extrusion machine, because the purpose of the injection machine is to give a really fast dose of melted plastic in the machine while the extrusion machine gives a continues flow. So for what i understood with a thin mold extrusion method won't work.

but you are able to add molds to the extrusion machine they just can't be as complicated. for example the hexagon tiles and barstock

Ah right. I wonder why it can't do detailed stuff? Is it the element that it isnt automated? It is pretty similar to most injection molding machines.

Has anyone tried making a shredder from aluminum? It would be great to mill on my homemade cnc

the shredding teeth need to be hard, since they will be taking loads, so aluminum doesn't seem a really proper material especially for the "teeth". For some other parts it may be ok

GeorgeH

Ah right. I wonder why it can't do detailed stuff? Is it the element that it isnt automated? It is pretty similar to most injection molding machines.

yeah that

GeorgeH

Ah right. I wonder why it can't do detailed stuff? Is it the element that it isnt automated? It is pretty similar to most injection molding machines.

Yeah that is a real bummer honestly, I thought I could get the extrusion machines and do injection molding but oh well.

Gallon

Hello, i have been looking at this proshredder files and documents. I see there is no specific engine listed,just some parameters. Power (W) 2,2 to 4 KW Voltage (V) 400 V Amperage (AMP) 16 A Do i need some Nm and tourqe info to choose engine?

If I'm not wrong, on the specs there is also the suggested speed for the blades. So you have all the needed data.

Butte (PP Philippines)

To be frank.. the entire journey that brought me to Precious Plastic was because of injection molding 3d printer parts as printing was too slow

Yeh this is for a specific one off print, I don’t have a 3D printer atm and would take me time to get all that set up, so why not use one of you guys who has the kit for a fee

GeorgeH

Hi there, I have been thinking in investing in a machine. I was wondering one thing though, can you do injection molding with an extrusion or extrusion pro system? Has anyone had any experience with this?

Hi George, I’ve seen on YouTube people doing this, but they have an automated shut and open press for the mould, and both motors are time synchronised and the extruder turns the right amount for the mould. Lots of Arduino stuff. But, for a single line injection, the mould would need to be uncomplicated and not too big. It’s a big step up unless you know exactly what you want. Otherwise the heated injection tube (so to speak) is better for small batch and quick variation. I would love to explore it in the future but I’m focused on the compressor atm

Thydric

Has anyone tried making a shredder from aluminum? It would be great to mill on my homemade cnc

Maybe you have looked at this already, but one option for an AL rotor is to use blade inserts. Maybe a local machine shop supplier could get a bunch in? It would take some design effort to create a rotor that accepts the cutters on the tips.

Vindaloovians

How so? The commercially available filament extruders seem to work on that principle

Hey! I'm trying to find a good example diagram, but I am struggling. I'll find a referenced source soon, but this is what I remember for now: The theory is that the material 'recovers' somewhat after it exits the nozzle. That is, it returns to a larger diameter once it exits the nozzle. Even though the material is molten, it still have some elastic properties, which creates this recovery behaviour. Like @Centorion said, pulling on the extruded filament can have a huge impact on this recovery behaviour, reducing the recovered diameter down to the desired diameter as the material cools. Pulling on the filament is also a much faster feedback loop than changing extruder temperature or screw speed. So it allows whatever microcontroller that is monitoring the filament diameter to make 'rapid' micro adjustments to ensure a constant filament is extruded. I've seen 1.75 filament extruders using 1.5mm nozzles. The nice thing about this is the nozzle size doesn't matter as much as the control system. So you can get away with whatever hole you can make so long as your control system is up to scratch. I'll try find a better explanation and get back to you. EDIT: I should open up the floor to others for other filament extruder arrangements? Maybe others have tested other feedback arrangements? EDIT2: I'm looking at one implementation that doesn't have the pull speed controlled by a micro, it's manual control. (edited)

hey friends can anyone help provide me with a spec recommendation for the motor of the normal shredder?

Hey, is there any machining sequence for the extrusion screw ? I would like to order it from a local manufacturer, but he's asking me this

PaddyGee

Maybe you have looked at this already, but one option for an AL rotor is to use blade inserts. Maybe a local machine shop supplier could get a bunch in? It would take some design effort to create a rotor that accepts the cutters on the tips.

I haven’t seen those before, I’ll have a look at them. Thanks!

Hello. I've noticed there are videos from precious plastic about shredded plastic cleaning prototypes they have made. Is there anyone selling something like this that could make cleaning large amounts of plastic easier? Thanks!

Emric

Hi George, I’ve seen on YouTube people doing this, but they have an automated shut and open press for the mould, and both motors are time synchronised and the extruder turns the right amount for the mould. Lots of Arduino stuff. But, for a single line injection, the mould would need to be uncomplicated and not too big. It’s a big step up unless you know exactly what you want. Otherwise the heated injection tube (so to speak) is better for small batch and quick variation. I would love to explore it in the future but I’m focused on the compressor atm

Yeah it is something I want to look into. I don't really understand why it doesn't work at the moment as the extrusion machine isn't exactly accurate. I have a decent amount of experience with cnc so might give it a go. I can automate the process as long as the hardware is capable of handling injection molding (accuracy basically).

PaddyGee

Hey! I'm trying to find a good example diagram, but I am struggling. I'll find a referenced source soon, but this is what I remember for now: The theory is that the material 'recovers' somewhat after it exits the nozzle. That is, it returns to a larger diameter once it exits the nozzle. Even though the material is molten, it still have some elastic properties, which creates this recovery behaviour. Like @Centorion said, pulling on the extruded filament can have a huge impact on this recovery behaviour, reducing the recovered diameter down to the desired diameter as the material cools. Pulling on the filament is also a much faster feedback loop than changing extruder temperature or screw speed. So it allows whatever microcontroller that is monitoring the filament diameter to make 'rapid' micro adjustments to ensure a constant filament is extruded. I've seen 1.75 filament extruders using 1.5mm nozzles. The nice thing about this is the nozzle size doesn't matter as much as the control system. So you can get away with whatever hole you can make so long as your control system is up to scratch. I'll try find a better explanation and get back to you. EDIT: I should open up the floor to others for other filament extruder arrangements? Maybe others have tested other feedback arrangements? EDIT2: I'm looking at one implementation that doesn't have the pull speed controlled by a micro, it's manual control. (edited)

Thank you for the reply! This is really interesting

PaddyGee

Hey! I'm trying to find a good example diagram, but I am struggling. I'll find a referenced source soon, but this is what I remember for now: The theory is that the material 'recovers' somewhat after it exits the nozzle. That is, it returns to a larger diameter once it exits the nozzle. Even though the material is molten, it still have some elastic properties, which creates this recovery behaviour. Like @Centorion said, pulling on the extruded filament can have a huge impact on this recovery behaviour, reducing the recovered diameter down to the desired diameter as the material cools. Pulling on the filament is also a much faster feedback loop than changing extruder temperature or screw speed. So it allows whatever microcontroller that is monitoring the filament diameter to make 'rapid' micro adjustments to ensure a constant filament is extruded. I've seen 1.75 filament extruders using 1.5mm nozzles. The nice thing about this is the nozzle size doesn't matter as much as the control system. So you can get away with whatever hole you can make so long as your control system is up to scratch. I'll try find a better explanation and get back to you. EDIT: I should open up the floor to others for other filament extruder arrangements? Maybe others have tested other feedback arrangements? EDIT2: I'm looking at one implementation that doesn't have the pull speed controlled by a micro, it's manual control. (edited)

I found this open source paper on a filament extruder design - it looks like they are using a similar approach to what you suggest. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468067218300208

Just did some more digging and Werbewunder( check him out, great guy) is using a 1,9 mm Nozzle. I would think, but don't quote me on that, that u use a slightly bigger one because with the help of a puller u can make the diameter smaller but not bigger(?)

4:30 PM

@PaddyGee I think that automated speed control makes your life a lot easier. Ones its set up

. I stumbled across a guy which is in the progress of designing a laser diameter control for diy Extruders

Centorion

Just did some more digging and Werbewunder( check him out, great guy) is using a 1,9 mm Nozzle. I would think, but don't quote me on that, that u use a slightly bigger one because with the help of a puller u can make the diameter smaller but not bigger(?)

Yeah, I think that is fair. Reading back, perhaps I misspoke on the nozzle being smaller, but rather that it just doesn't matter as much (or has a wider range of suitable values) as you mentioned originally. I'm thinking that there might be an advantage in how much strain the material is exposed to after it exits the extruder. If the nozzle was very large, the puller would really have to hustle (in a linear feet extruded versus linear feet pulled kinda way), but the polymer chains in the material would have more time to align, perhaps improving the consistency of the filament, maybe this would also be more tolerant to voids? I'm sure someone with improve materials science knowledge could point that out. There must be some flow/temperature/crystallization behaviour just after the nozzle that needs to be understood. RE Automatic speed control: I mean there is a pretty sweet multi-variable PID controller waiting to be created if someone wants to do a masters in control systems

Thats a good point, now we only need someone with proper material knowledge

After some more screen time of Werbewunders Videos I, well he, found one more thing to take in consideration with the nozzle

8:08 PM

1

8:08 PM

The Sizing of the Injection Channel

8:09 PM

Every Plastic has its "sweet spot" for the Channel Sizing

8:15 PM

Also @PaddyGee you weren't wrong, sorry about that one. Depending on the Plastic the opening should be 1.5-2mm

Centorion

Also @PaddyGee you weren't wrong, sorry about that one. Depending on the Plastic the opening should be 1.5-2mm

No worries! Thanks for digging in!

PaddyGee

Maybe you have looked at this already, but one option for an AL rotor is to use blade inserts. Maybe a local machine shop supplier could get a bunch in? It would take some design effort to create a rotor that accepts the cutters on the tips.

Hello! I thought about the possibility of using carbide inserts for my personal design shredder, but: 1)It have 256 cutter edges, so the cost (about 8€/insert, over 2k€!) is unsustainable, at least for me. 2)For a sharp insert, like the TCGT090204 for aluminum and non-ferrous metals, the cost can be higher... And screws for those inserts are not cheap, about 1€ each or more. Every insert needs a proper seat, plain and correctly shaped, it is a job I can make on one of the 4axis lathe at job, but...does it worth the effort? I think it is better to make the blades from an hardenable steel, and give them an induction hardening on the tips, if needed. At the moment I decided not to harden mine, but I made them in 39NiCrMo3 steel, so if needed I can re-shape the worn cutting surface and harden them in a future.

2

12:40 AM

Today I have the shredder enclosure milled from a workmate on "his" CNC machining center. I tried to put it together for a manual test, the blades are turning freely despite the little play between eachother. Tomorrow I must do a test with the motor. I have to make the static blades, I hope I can make them straight on the lathe, avoiding the need of re-work them on the surface grinding machine. Finger crossed.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Hello! I thought about the possibility of using carbide inserts for my personal design shredder, but: 1)It have 256 cutter edges, so the cost (about 8€/insert, over 2k€!) is unsustainable, at least for me. 2)For a sharp insert, like the TCGT090204 for aluminum and non-ferrous metals, the cost can be higher... And screws for those inserts are not cheap, about 1€ each or more. Every insert needs a proper seat, plain and correctly shaped, it is a job I can make on one of the 4axis lathe at job, but...does it worth the effort? I think it is better to make the blades from an hardenable steel, and give them an induction hardening on the tips, if needed. At the moment I decided not to harden mine, but I made them in 39NiCrMo3 steel, so if needed I can re-shape the worn cutting surface and harden them in a future.

Thanks for digging in with the pricing. I had only looked very quickly at where to source them from. One has to be pretty committed to sink that kind of cash.

Would anyone know if a basic extruder could make plastic beams using a beam mold? (Or is this something only a pro extruder can do?)

PaddyGee

Thanks for digging in with the pricing. I had only looked very quickly at where to source them from. One has to be pretty committed to sink that kind of cash.

Wait: That is valid for mine, the PP shredder has a fraction of blades!

@dogwire Im positive that it is possible, as PP showed it in Videos themselves. Just keep an Eye on your power output depending on how big you want to go with the beams

Has anyone experimented with using aluminium for parts such as the heater barrel on the extrusion and injection systems? It would surely heat up quicker and more evenly. It would also reduce shipping costs for people in the bazar or for precious plastic if they sell them in the future. I guess joining would be a bit more difficult but brazing or mechanical fixings would work. Anyone ever tried this?

Sounds Interesting

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Hello! I thought about the possibility of using carbide inserts for my personal design shredder, but: 1)It have 256 cutter edges, so the cost (about 8€/insert, over 2k€!) is unsustainable, at least for me. 2)For a sharp insert, like the TCGT090204 for aluminum and non-ferrous metals, the cost can be higher... And screws for those inserts are not cheap, about 1€ each or more. Every insert needs a proper seat, plain and correctly shaped, it is a job I can make on one of the 4axis lathe at job, but...does it worth the effort? I think it is better to make the blades from an hardenable steel, and give them an induction hardening on the tips, if needed. At the moment I decided not to harden mine, but I made them in 39NiCrMo3 steel, so if needed I can re-shape the worn cutting surface and harden them in a future.

Cool stuff, we were just looking into that for a single shaft shredder. If you buy them on alibaba it will be waaaaaaaaaaaaay cheaper. I would not be too picky as you are shredding plastic, it is very soft compared to metal.

2

GeorgeH

Has anyone experimented with using aluminium for parts such as the heater barrel on the extrusion and injection systems? It would surely heat up quicker and more evenly. It would also reduce shipping costs for people in the bazar or for precious plastic if they sell them in the future. I guess joining would be a bit more difficult but brazing or mechanical fixings would work. Anyone ever tried this?

My gut says that maintaining the tolerance between the screw and the wall of the tube will be challenging. The aluminum will expand away from the steel of the screw, when I assume a steel screw and steel tube will at-least stay 'somewhat' in unison as they heat, geometry differences pending? Edit: I am assuming there is no aluminum screw variant? (edited)

Hey guys im Diego and I live in Panama! I am about to order the laser cut pieces for an extruder and shredder pro and was wondering if all the pieces can be done in caliber 18 304 stainless steel?

4:47 PM

I ask because some of the specifications in the 2D blueprints specify other metals, is that because of making it more affordable or because those metals are needed for that specific part for example mild steel etc. Thanks!!

Hello everyone, can anyone tell med where i would be able to download the blueprints for the shredder?

PTJane

Hello everyone, can anyone tell med where i would be able to download the blueprints for the shredder?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Thank you very much!

1

@PaddyGee Yeah that is a very good point actually. Maybe I can find a way to calculate the expansion and work from there. Thanks!

Hey

Just wanted to ask for quick verification that one can run the Extruder Pro Screw with 2,2Kw. I showed the Screw to Werbewunder and he said that I would atleast need 10Kw to run that bad boy. Can anyone confirm the one or the other?

8:14 PM

I am looking to build a Shredder Pro for my communities Precious Plastics Lab Does anyone know how to change the circuit from three phase to single phase?

LumberSnack

I am looking to build a Shredder Pro for my communities Precious Plastics Lab Does anyone know how to change the circuit from three phase to single phase?

I would think the best way is to just use a single phase AC motor, that is what I have done for my shredder, it isn't a pro version though. There might just be a reduction in torque when you do this though so it might need to turn slower to increase torque.

Centorion

Hey

Just wanted to ask for quick verification that one can run the Extruder Pro Screw with 2,2Kw. I showed the Screw to Werbewunder and he said that I would atleast need 10Kw to run that bad boy. Can anyone confirm the one or the other?

I would like to know about this too if anyone has any info

According to @tomseca, a great guy from the German PP Forum, you can run the Screw as stated with 2.2Kw

Hey, so I just watched your Build a PRO plastic shredder video. I was wondering why you guys designed the blades that way. Is there a reason the blades have that much more teeth then your previous smaller shredder? And why are the blades different on the two shafts? And how do you determent the best angle for the blades to like diferenciate from eachother? Btw I'm making a shredder for a school project so just doing some research

.

hi does anyone have any recommendations for the best (and also affordable) place to buy the electronic components and wiring (power cable etc) for the injection machine? (uk)

@j_hen Chinese Sites are your best friend

6:45 PM

Alababa/express, robotdigg etc

Vegan Monster

Hey guys im Diego and I live in Panama! I am about to order the laser cut pieces for an extruder and shredder pro and was wondering if all the pieces can be done in caliber 18 304 stainless steel?

Stainless steel is better than mild steel, but it is a lot more expensive, it is difficult to machine (for example, to make threaded holes etc.) and it require a lot of skills in welding, because it tend to deform a lot when locally heated.

10:13 AM

I'm on the way to finish the shreeder. I have to make the static blades and to switch to a 0.55/0.75kw three phase motor+inverter (we also have). The small 0.3kw single phase doesn't have enough torque to shred thick (>3mm) plastic.

10:13 AM

https://youtu.be/eyYsWbvgXbQ (I don't like hardcore music at all, but I like Little Big).

dadoVRC

Collaudo trituratore

2

@Centorion That screw can be run with 2,2 kW. Just make sure you drive it with a motor(reductor) capable of delivering around 100 Nm of torque.

@Peter-Bas Thanks for the input!

Anyone got a motor for their shredder new? Non pro version

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Stainless steel is better than mild steel, but it is a lot more expensive, it is difficult to machine (for example, to make threaded holes etc.) and it require a lot of skills in welding, because it tend to deform a lot when locally heated.

thanks!

https://youtu.be/9otWnmTpQAQ

Business Insider

Flip-Flops Made From Plants And Algae Can Help Reduce Plastic Pollu...

1

1:52 AM

What if we can make flip flops in the same way as the bio edible plates?

Hey everyone

We are a German student startup and we develop and build machines for filament production and recycling. Check out our winder at the Bazar: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/extruder/extruder-kits/title-jarvis-winder-achieve-perfect-winding-with-your-extruder/ It achieves perfect winding for a reasonable price.

JARVIS Winder - achieve perfect winding with your extruder!

8:57 PM

Also, feel free to visit our website

https://www.qitech.de/en/industries

Industries

The new way to produce material for 3D printing. Extrude and wind filament to perfection.

Hello, please have anyone see or built pet fiber machine Majorly working with heating element and compressor? because I want to start building the pet fibre machine I have make some research and I only watch the videos and not seen how it works, and we want to convert our pet into fibre, your kind advice and mentorship will help me to start on a good note without unnecessary errors along the process of the machine design, please prompt response is highly needed. Thanks

@paulo121 do you mean something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8446TXy3by8

Andrey Kolev

Pet recycling machine for PET bottles. Make polyester fibre for ev...

Centorion

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Wow, I was exactly looking for this ! Do you have the machining sequence to do this screw ?

@tsiour_p You can buy it of robotdigg!

https://m.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project#

30mm diameter extrusion screw for Precious Plastic project - RobotDigg

Screw and Barrel for Plastic Recycling RobotDigg are glad to work with worldwide Plastic Recycling projects which can help to reduce, repair, reuse, and recycle the Plastics. This extrusion screw is d...

1

Centorion

@tsiour_p You can buy it of robotdigg!

https://m.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project#

Thanks buddy, I appreciate !

Hi! I am looking for a V3 shredder kit, anyone know of a seller?

Im positive that there are offers on the Pp Bazar, if not the guys from plastic-hub.com are selling one for sure

Centorion

Im positive that there are offers on the Pp Bazar, if not the guys from plastic-hub.com are selling one for sure

thank you

GeorgeH

Has anyone experimented with using aluminium for parts such as the heater barrel on the extrusion and injection systems? It would surely heat up quicker and more evenly. It would also reduce shipping costs for people in the bazar or for precious plastic if they sell them in the future. I guess joining would be a bit more difficult but brazing or mechanical fixings would work. Anyone ever tried this?

Not sure if Aluminum would be an advantage or not, but it can be TIG welded to join it to another aluminum part.

Aluminum is very expensive. We build shredders in South Africa. We use hardox mild steel. So it slightly hardened for wear.

Anyone have design files for bicycle shredder...

Michael L

Aluminum is very expensive. We build shredders in South Africa. We use hardox mild steel. So it slightly hardened for wear.

i have been wondering about the corrosion that appears when using mild steel. Would you like to share your related experience?

We only start seeing sever wear on the blades around 3 years of operation with hardox mild steel

and what about rust on the steel parts?

10:35 AM

Rust isn’t such an issue. If you shred plastics with waste liquids in. It may cause rust and may cause an increase in friction between all the blades but abit of oil for lubrications will help the steel for rust.

10:36 AM

Not to rust

thanks for the picture! So these are the 3 years old blades? If you oil the blades though, won't oil move to the shredded plastic, with subsequent problems?

Sorry if this qurstion was already asked or its posted somewhere in files but i cant seem to see the size of shredding chambers of shredder and shredder PRO. When i open files i see dimensions,but those dimensions include table,engine and other stuff. I just need size of chamber

Jayanthan

Anyone have design files for bicycle shredder...

there are some bicycle shredders in the How-to's

1

Hi guys! Found myself building sheetpress v4.0, everything (almost) is cut and ready to be assembled. Have seen v4 by FF files and original (PP) approach, maybe there is something to pay Extra attention to during assembly? Thanks!

Is it possible to use the extrusion machine to make sheet, and if yes how big can it be?

Charley

Is it possible to use the extrusion machine to make sheet, and if yes how big can it be?

Since you can extrude beams, I guess you can extrude sheets. It's just not fast and convenient, and the gravity might attract the melted plastic to the bottom first before filling up the top

What about making frisbee?

7:57 AM

Do you think with the right mold it will come out clean?

Can be very nice ! But building the mould might be tricky

8:00 AM

Definitely has to be CNC-ed

tsiour_p

Can be very nice ! But building the mould might be tricky

back to the sheet question, how big do you think it can be?

Hum, I think 30x30cm is a good start

8:04 AM

Pretty conservative

and how thick would it be?

2 or 3 cm I would say

tsiour_p

Can be very nice ! But building the mould might be tricky

The Precious Plastic Philippines has told me that they experience wrinkled finish by just attaching the mold to the the extrusion and and to solved that by modified some short of compression molder. I am really kinda stuck on what to consider at the moment.

What is exactly your need ?

I am thinking of making recycle frisbee and just want to know will the extrusion machine do a good job of making a clean output.

The injection would be the best way to go for it

Hey, so I just watched your Build a PRO plastic shredder video. I was wondering why you guys designed the blades that way. Is there a reason the blades have that much more teeth then your previous smaller shredder? And why are the blades different on the two shafts? And how do you determent the best angle for the blades to like diferenciate from eachother? Btw I'm making a shredder for a school project so just doing some research

.

paulo121

Hello, please have anyone see or built pet fiber machine Majorly working with heating element and compressor? because I want to start building the pet fibre machine I have make some research and I only watch the videos and not seen how it works, and we want to convert our pet into fibre, your kind advice and mentorship will help me to start on a good note without unnecessary errors along the process of the machine design, please prompt response is highly needed. Thanks

We built a machine like this a little over 2 years ago. The fiber output was not so great. Big problem as that we needed to pre heat the air and we used hot air heat gun heaters which if the air flow stops or is too slow, your heater will overheat. Also had a lot of problems with the nozzle jamming. We also needed a LOT of air. we tried air compressor but not so good. HVLP paint sprayer would work better. However in retrospect, a modified cotton candy machine would work much better and less electricity use.

12:03 PM

In other news we are working on making our high speed shredder even bigger. Our engineer tells us that we could go all the way up to 3x the size (2X shown here) with up to 20hp diesel. We want to be able to process one ton per hour. (edited)

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

In other news we are working on making our high speed shredder even bigger. Our engineer tells us that we could go all the way up to 3x the size (2X shown here) with up to 20hp diesel. We want to be able to process one ton per hour. (edited)

20HP

Hi

I am wondering whether it is somehow possible to make an extruder work if I have a power input of about 240 V? Thanks in advance!

Chiara

Hi

I am wondering whether it is somehow possible to make an extruder work if I have a power input of about 240 V? Thanks in advance!

of course. our shop usually averages 238v and no issues.

Do you have a basic or a pro?

Hi everybody. We (MakerSpace Bonn) are trying to buy a shredder kit on PP Bazar. Unfortunately payment with credit card does not seem to work due to problems with two-factor-authenication or the newly (2021) required 3d-Secure. We tried with different cards but no transaction succeded. Is there some technical support or are there other people affected as well? Any help, especially by the operators of the platform, would be appreciated... (edited)

Chiara

Do you have a basic or a pro?

Hi Chiara, 240VAC single phase can run Pro machines just fine. We usually convert to 3 phase with an onboard VFD to run the correct motors.

Is it easier to sort plastics post-shredding or pre-shredding?

Chief Carti

Hi everyone, my name is Carter, I am from Phoenix Arizona. I recently became interested in recycling plastics, and built my own filament extruder, I've tested shredding and extruding recycled plastics into 3D printer spools. I am struggling to maintain a consistent diameter/thickness of my filament. Does anyone have recommendations of how I could fix that?

I live in Mesa,AZ. I’m thinking about starting a plastics recycling/extruding company while I’m in school for engineering at ASU so I can use the resources and grants available. If you’d like to talk about future possibilities PM me.

MBrady

Is it easier to sort plastics post-shredding or pre-shredding?

Pre shredding is easier, because there is a chance you can identify the plastic with its label, or its shape/usage

Hi! Does anyone have experience with average total extrusion time and amount of plastic neccesary to fill up the three molds to make this bench?

6:10 PM

@MBrady you should get in touch w/ @TEglen he is setting up a workspace at ASU

2

pauldufour

@MBrady you should get in touch w/ @TEglen he is setting up a workspace at ASU

Thanks! Will do

3

MBrady

I live in Mesa,AZ. I’m thinking about starting a plastics recycling/extruding company while I’m in school for engineering at ASU so I can use the resources and grants available. If you’d like to talk about future possibilities PM me.

unfortunately the road will be harder to go than you imagine. I had someone with serious money start looking into recycling the plastic that the Chinese are no longer buying in California. The governments are sending it to landfills at very high costs. He was trying to find out how to get ahold of that, and he instead uncovered a Tony Soprano mafia like operation with some of the biggest politician names in California getting rich off it. And all we was looking to do was do plastic agglomeration and make asphalt road materials.

Vegan Monster

Hi! Does anyone have experience with average total extrusion time and amount of plastic neccesary to fill up the three molds to make this bench?

you need to calculate volume per part and extrapolate that with the kilos per hour your extrusion machine will do. Also we are working on a improved method to continuous extrude plastic that results in a smooth finish. We have gotten very smooth beams, but unfortunately the material is not suitable for engineering or machining uses as we have a lot of bubbles in it. We suspect that it is steam bubbles. Short story is, we extrude thru the pipe that is our die and around that die we put another pipe thru which we pump cold water to cool the plastic. We have a heat exchange in our shop that we built from automotive parts, a exhaust fan and 1/2 hp water pump. It is on the schedule to be worked on.

Butte (PP Philippines)

unfortunately the road will be harder to go than you imagine. I had someone with serious money start looking into recycling the plastic that the Chinese are no longer buying in California. The governments are sending it to landfills at very high costs. He was trying to find out how to get ahold of that, and he instead uncovered a Tony Soprano mafia like operation with some of the biggest politician names in California getting rich off it. And all we was looking to do was do plastic agglomeration and make asphalt road materials.

@TEglen is getting a startup going at ASU. With the help of ASU student volunteers collecting and sorting plastic, we plan to do it the right way. Just need more engineering resources at ASU

MBrady

@TEglen is getting a startup going at ASU. With the help of ASU student volunteers collecting and sorting plastic, we plan to do it the right way. Just need more engineering resources at ASU

no one will stop you from experimenting (for now) but to scale up and do a big operation, you will find that the most vocal about recycling and green stuff will be the biggest enemies to actually succeeding as they are getting rich off not solving problems.

Butte (PP Philippines)

no one will stop you from experimenting (for now) but to scale up and do a big operation, you will find that the most vocal about recycling and green stuff will be the biggest enemies to actually succeeding as they are getting rich off not solving problems.

Thanks for the heads up

The project we was looking at was planned to be set up in Yuma with Los Angeles waste plastic.

1:11 AM

You may want to look at agglomeration of plastic. It appears to be a more energy efficient method to make plastic pellets than the usual methods. Also it appears to mix the films and otherwise unusable waste plastics into a usable product, however that still needs more experimenting. We have managed to process waste plastic film and bags into plant pots.

1:13 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGAMzOJh9MY example.. this unit operates like a food processor for processing film plastics. It has a insanely big electric motor on it

WANROOETECH-Shredder Solutions

Plastic Film Agglomerator Machine, PP/PE/PET/PVC/HDPE/LDPE Bag Dens...

1:14 AM

instead of that method... check this out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viK7y7pD_dQ

Phillip Fourie

DIY pellet mill

1

1:15 AM

There are companies doing pelletizing of waste but its so secretive, not a lot of information out there.

Butte (PP Philippines)

you need to calculate volume per part and extrapolate that with the kilos per hour your extrusion machine will do. Also we are working on a improved method to continuous extrude plastic that results in a smooth finish. We have gotten very smooth beams, but unfortunately the material is not suitable for engineering or machining uses as we have a lot of bubbles in it. We suspect that it is steam bubbles. Short story is, we extrude thru the pipe that is our die and around that die we put another pipe thru which we pump cold water to cool the plastic. We have a heat exchange in our shop that we built from automotive parts, a exhaust fan and 1/2 hp water pump. It is on the schedule to be worked on.

thanks for the feedback! ill let you guys know how it goes

For someone who has 0 experience in building, mechanical engineering, or electrician, how hard is it to build a sheet press from 1-10? (10 as not even possible)

Butte (PP Philippines)

you need to calculate volume per part and extrapolate that with the kilos per hour your extrusion machine will do. Also we are working on a improved method to continuous extrude plastic that results in a smooth finish. We have gotten very smooth beams, but unfortunately the material is not suitable for engineering or machining uses as we have a lot of bubbles in it. We suspect that it is steam bubbles. Short story is, we extrude thru the pipe that is our die and around that die we put another pipe thru which we pump cold water to cool the plastic. We have a heat exchange in our shop that we built from automotive parts, a exhaust fan and 1/2 hp water pump. It is on the schedule to be worked on.

i thought that the aim was to have the mold heated in order to achieve better results, not cool it...

I can't find a motor for my v4 shredder! Any assistance? Ways to gear down??

Butte (PP Philippines)

There are companies doing pelletizing of waste but its so secretive, not a lot of information out there.

Hey! I run a pellet mill that does makes cardboard pellets from landfill cardboard. I would be super keen to collaborate on waste pelletizing stuff / can share what we have. It's pretty specific to a northern Canadian community, but the the tech is consistent.

1

spiros nik

i thought that the aim was to have the mold heated in order to achieve better results, not cool it...

it depends on the speed that you fill your mold. heated molds if you are injecting cause the hand operated injection is so slow to fill. I am doing compression molding of 780 gram parts which requires a lot of heat energy to be removed from the mold and fast to freeze the part. We are managing to cool the plastic part now in a 2 min cycle time, which means that when we upgrade to the bigger v4 extrusion, we can pump out a big eco pot at a projected 25 pieces per hour average.

pmcd124

I can't find a motor for my v4 shredder! Any assistance? Ways to gear down??

buy a separate gearbox, or use belts/pulley and then a chain sprocket for the second stage to slow it down like we did. there are videos on the Precious Plastic Philippines youtube showing it. The reason why we need the chain on the second stage is because the massive torque makes belts slip.

Any places to find a plastic shredder or a guide to do that?

Khaled Raafat

Hello guys, I am kind of still confused between extrusion and injection machines, and which of them best fits my proposed product. I am willing to make solid (not hollow) bricks. can I use extruders for this with proper mould or it has to be injection machines? and why?

did you made the brick?

Hello guys, please have anyone have the knowledge on how to build pet fiber machine, I am making research if I can see someone to put me through here will be grateful, majorly the design and materials, waiting for urgent responds thank.

hi everyone, I've looked through the great videos on the you tube chan and also looked at downloaded blueprints and other infos. I am looking at building my own shredder pro, and like to know how to do the "harden steel blades" as this step i didnt see explained or listed somehere?

paulo121

Hello guys, please have anyone have the knowledge on how to build pet fiber machine, I am making research if I can see someone to put me through here will be grateful, majorly the design and materials, waiting for urgent responds thank.

like I replied before, I have made that PET fiber machine. I outlined the technical issues encountered that you will have to solve. I also hve mentioned that a spinnerette design likely will work better than the spray PET fiber. PET fiber method you are talking about is also known as melt blown fiber and used to make things like non woven eco bags, and hospital masks. The blown method in the videos also tends to have a issue with random drops of plastic solidified into the fiber batt, while does not affect the usability, is unsightly and makes it appear to have dirt in it. Research cotton candy machines. Then imagine a machine that you extrude the molten PET into and the bowl is facing down rather than up. This way you can con tinously make fiber, and it will fall directly out of the machine into your packaging bag. This is a method I have seen some Indian machines using. It will use much less electricity, and more reliable.

4:19 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtwZVJ3tYzA here is a possibility also. put a 90 degree elbow on the extrusion machine output. align machine to feed the melted PET directly into the cotton candy machine and see what you get

SuperToBuy

Professional Cotton Candy Machine Demonstration Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asqXBuZPh8U

romanursuhack RomanUrsuHack

How To Make cotton candy machine out of ventilator

QuakerOates

hi everyone, I've looked through the great videos on the you tube chan and also looked at downloaded blueprints and other infos. I am looking at building my own shredder pro, and like to know how to do the "harden steel blades" as this step i didnt see explained or listed somehere?

ideally the material you lasercut will be prehardened. you could harden the blades yourself but that's an art of its own... the plans call for hardox which i believe might be a european brand, so if you're somewhere else there could be another name for it. for example in the us, AR (abrasion resistant) steel is common. but what you're looking for is hardened or prehardened steel, you could ask your lasercutter to see if they have access to it

thanks @pauldufour

8:30 PM

i remember now reading about hardox, will write this in so look into buying when ready

I was trying to find the email address of Precious Plastic to send my questions to but I was not successful. So, I have the shredded plastic, but I do not have enough energy to melt it. All what I have is the sun of the desert. Do you know some machine that can direct the heat of the sun to melt the shredded plastic I have?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/solar-plastic-injection-

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

5:40 PM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/sun-concentrator-for-solar-plastic-melting

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

2

GeorgeMMM

I was trying to find the email address of Precious Plastic to send my questions to but I was not successful. So, I have the shredded plastic, but I do not have enough energy to melt it. All what I have is the sun of the desert. Do you know some machine that can direct the heat of the sun to melt the shredded plastic I have?

look into fresnel lenses

I am looking for someone that will make a machine that will shred #7 plastic Photopolymer Resin that has been cured so its pretty hard. It was recommended that I look for AR300 or 500.

GeorgeMMM

I was trying to find the email address of Precious Plastic to send my questions to but I was not successful. So, I have the shredded plastic, but I do not have enough energy to melt it. All what I have is the sun of the desert. Do you know some machine that can direct the heat of the sun to melt the shredded plastic I have?

Check out Light Manufacturing their website is lm.solar (edited)

1

3:41 AM

Hey all, how do I connect the extra heating units to the same SIRR and PID? I've wired one up as per image. Online extruder schematics got me this far but am not sure where to

How much electricity dose the Sheetpress machine use per h?

@0502 Your wiring is not going to turn on by the look of it. Get that figured out and and then run your band heaters into a terminal block.

blk.wth

@0502 Your wiring is not going to turn on by the look of it. Get that figured out and and then run your band heaters into a terminal block.

Yeah got to get main plug though the bands was tripping me up. So something like this?

8:15 AM

Hello I want extruder draws

Hey guys, does anyone know the ideal rpm for the basic shredder?

have a look at the pined messages of this channel

spiros nik

have a look at the pined messages of this channel

Thanks a lot!

Hi i was looking info about the screw design and more info. I have the intention to buy a big machine

hey, how do you know which cables to get if you are wiring a REX-C100 pid controller for the injection? (uk)

Hello there! Questions about Shredder Pro Does anybody know why is there different metal 1110.03, 1110.04 in blueprints (common steel) and laser cut files (hardox)? How critical use common steel in these details? Thanks! (edited)

10:41 AM

10:44 AM

Hello ! We are AVST Togo, a Togolese NGO working for the environment. We have done many actions for the ecology, as you can see on the following link: https://youtu.be/Dtfml5XWGHQ. We also have some partners working in the social field, as Agopod, a partner bringing aids to street kids. We have recently discovered Precious Plastic and we would love to be part of this network. We think that by acquiring a starter kit to build a recycling machine, we could make much progress. We have the support of our town hall with which we have recently signed a partnership and which is ready to lend us a field, and accompanied us in this project. In addition to recycling a lot of plastic, we would allow the poorest people, like the street kids, to have an income generating-activity. The thing is that we don't have enough money to get a kit... We have no financial aid from the government and the donations we sometimes received are not enough. Do you know how we could get at a very low price or freely ? If there is any shop which would be up to help us, we could communicate about this parntership or anything that would help this shop to grow. Here in Togo, the Precious Plastic network is not developped and we would be the first ! Thanks for your help !

asso avst

Reportage AVST

Hi, does anyone know someone that can design and mill custom phone case mold? iPhone mobile covers?

Hi, anyone in Montreal with a CNC machine willing to collaborate and make the stamping coins?

Can anyone tell me where to download the CAD files for the Shredder Pro??

1:16 AM

nvm

Hi there ! My name is Mathias, I'm a french student. I'm new on the discord so sorry if I'm not on the good chat

I'm planning to build an injection machine and I've got a question about the bandheaters : i'm just struggling to find bandheaters on the web (190W, 220V, 34x45mm, as in the blueprints). Do you have safe websites and good products references to buy them online ? Thanks !

[CSME] Sara Ordonselli

Hi, anyone in Montreal with a CNC machine willing to collaborate and make the stamping coins?

Maybe try in the #🍔north-america channel. Or perhaps @elizabeth knows someone?

PaddyGee

Hey! I run a pellet mill that does makes cardboard pellets from landfill cardboard. I would be super keen to collaborate on waste pelletizing stuff / can share what we have. It's pretty specific to a northern Canadian community, but the the tech is consistent.

I would be interested to know more about how that works and if we could extend that to work with plastics with some heat...

urpylka

Hello there! Questions about Shredder Pro Does anybody know why is there different metal 1110.03, 1110.04 in blueprints (common steel) and laser cut files (hardox)? How critical use common steel in these details? Thanks! (edited)

i guess harder steel is proposed for parts that take more damage, propably the shredder's teeth or so...

spiros nik

i guess harder steel is proposed for parts that take more damage, propably the shredder's teeth or so...

I am thinking same, but there is different in blueprints and folder to laser cut. And it bewilders me

i would think of it as a mistake and choose to order the harder steel

but why? body has no contact to a plastic as blades

i thought that the mistake was for the material of the blades...

here is a little mini injection molder that led me to finding precious plastic. My failed indiegogo mini injection molder project.

@Butte (PP Philippines) I've seen the top bit before but did you make the middle bit that connects the barrel to the frame?

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

@Butte (PP Philippines) I've seen the top bit before but did you make the middle bit that connects the barrel to the frame?

its two drill press kits put together

Cool and what was the injection shot size for it?

small i think 40 grams

3:13 AM

or around that

3:13 AM

Your are the same Rory who did the brick videos?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Your are the same Rory who did the brick videos?

I am indeed :)

I emailed you the other day

I saw. I'll get back to you on Monday :)

You have dead links in the user guide

Ah that's interesting. I will need to fix that. In the how toos?

I sent out the files for laser the other day to make the bricks here

3:19 AM

yeah the shortened URL at the bottom are dead

Cool, thanks for the heads up. I'll take a look.

the extrusion machine you used, that was with the robot digg screw?

3:19 AM

the 30mm diameter one?

3:19 AM

and about 5hp? (edited)

Yeah it's exactly the V4 extruder spec

3:21 AM

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/injection/injection-fully-built/starter-pack-holipress-by-holimaker/ could have sold your injector for 2700€ :p

HoliPress by HoliMaker

HoliPress, la presse à injection plastique ma

expensive

3:22 AM

i only asked 300usd for mine

3:23 AM

and it was only that much cause air freight had to be added in for intl shipping

3:24 AM

what is the hp and rpm of the v4 extrusion?

3:24 AM

im looking in my download pack

3:24 AM

not seeing

Try the academy. It has the spec there. I'd send you the link but I'm on my mobile.

okay.

3:27 AM

one of my shredder customers is willing to give me as much expanded PE foam as I want

3:28 AM

It has the fire retardant and carbon black in it for UV resist

3:29 AM

but I need to pelletize it. working on a modified pellet mill, like used in animal feed and grass pellets to squeeze the air out and make it dense enough to feed in the extrusion machine

3:29 AM

Im thinking that the bricks will be a excellent use for this stuff

3:31 AM

I built a modded v3 shredder with 30 blades for the factory and they shredded a 1000 square meter warehouse of foam scraps piled 4 meters high with it (edited)

3:32 AM

it is all cut off scraps from the making of refrigerant pipe insulation.

Butte (PP Philippines)

here is a little mini injection molder that led me to finding precious plastic. My failed indiegogo mini injection molder project.

interesting entry idea. Where is the melted plastic flowing in the mold from?

Hey everybody, just have a quick question about injector barrel and plunger tolerance. Sourcing seamless steel pipe in the US is a bit tricky, but I found some with an ID of 0.957" and was planning on using a plunger that is 0.9375 (15/16") giving me a tolerance of about 0.01" on each side. Will that work for this application?

@jonpanic ask for "DOM" (drawn over mandrel) not seamless pipe. (edited)

Hi All, I'm new to One Army and discord. I'm a home shop maker just for personal interest. I frequently use plastic to make parts in my mill. My local Plastic supplier stopped selling retail combined with it would be awesome to recycle my own material. I'd like to make blocks of HDPE to use in my projects. I don't have a laser, but I do have a CNC Plasma Table and a Bridgeport CNC mill. I'm looking to build a V2 shredder out of material I have on hand. I have a nice 1.5 HP gear reduction motor on the shelf and I have some 1/4" plate on hand. I also have some 1" hex stock and a bunch of pillow pack bearings. I see people using Stainless and hardox. Will mild steel blades hold up? I'm thinking I'll cut the plate on the mill, as the plasma leaves a rough cut. If I make the rotating blades and the fixed blades out of the same 1/4" plate, I could then thin the rotating blades on my surface grinder to add clearance. Is the V2 machine even worth building anymore now that the V4 is out? I'd build a V4, but the parts I have on hand are more suited to the V2 machine. I could probably build a V2 for nothing assuming I don't break any endmills

1.5hp is not close to the amount of power you need for the v3. you need a min of 3hp at 30rpm. mild steel works fine with the v3. but the shafting you should go up to 1.25 inches and turn down to 1 inch. people were breaking shafts of the smaller sizes over here

spiros nik

interesting entry idea. Where is the melted plastic flowing in the mold from?

it operates just like the little benchtop molders

Butte (PP Philippines)

1.5hp is not close to the amount of power you need for the v3. you need a min of 3hp at 30rpm. mild steel works fine with the v3. but the shafting you should go up to 1.25 inches and turn down to 1 inch. people were breaking shafts of the smaller sizes over here

It's clear that my motor is under powered. It's worse than I thought when I finally pulled it off the shelf to read the tag it's only .5 HP! It's a big heavy Baldor motor, but not going to do the job. I'll be on the hunt for something else. One thought, I could power it off my tractor PTO that has 20 PTO HP. Way more than enough for even the V4. Not sure if there is some conflict with trying to recycle plastic with Diesel power.

a cheapo harbor freight motor slowed down with pulleys works

1:32 PM

I did a v3 shredder like that a couple years ago for a remote island recycling project

Hello! I am trying to build the basic extrusion machine and can't seem to find the starter kit or blueprints for the basic version. Is there anywhere I can look? The video doesn't seem to have the link to the blue prints. Thx!

have downloaded the machine-shop start-kit. i think you can find it inside

11:11 PM

Where I can found these piece?

setshu2

Click to see attachment 🖼️

It's a pillow pack bearing. My first thought is Mcmaster Carr, but pricy. https://www.mcmaster.com/pillow-block-bearings/for-shaft-diameter~20mm/mounted-bearing-type~two-bolt-flange-mount/

johnny.desros

Hello! I am trying to build the basic extrusion machine and can't seem to find the starter kit or blueprints for the basic version. Is there anywhere I can look? The video doesn't seem to have the link to the blue prints. Thx!

You can get in in GitHub https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

Precious Plastic Downloadpack. Contribute to ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit development by creating an account on GitHub.

5:43 PM

Hi, does this motor and gearbox works good on the basic extrusion machines? 1.5 HP with gearbox

5:43 PM

And the price Is 430 us dollars Is ok this price?

have a look at the pinned messages (edited)

Thanks

Hi guys after a long slog nearly ready to go live, just some advice needed from someone who knows. Need a 'compound gear oil' for inside the reclaimed gearbox so it runs smoothly. Has to be this type as I'm using an enclosed worm gear type enclosed gear reducer. This is new to me. Can anyone recommend a brand I can get in the UK so I know I'm getting the right stuff? Don't want to mess it up now Cheers, Kyle

Hi Guys. I need to buy a ready to use combo machine to recycle and process my owen plastic. I try to buy before but to be honest even doo there is lots of info is not simple to buy what you need I like to see my options and make the purchase today. Thanks

Kyle Daniel

Hi guys after a long slog nearly ready to go live, just some advice needed from someone who knows. Need a 'compound gear oil' for inside the reclaimed gearbox so it runs smoothly. Has to be this type as I'm using an enclosed worm gear type enclosed gear reducer. This is new to me. Can anyone recommend a brand I can get in the UK so I know I'm getting the right stuff? Don't want to mess it up now Cheers, Kyle

gear oil is the same stuff in manual car transmissions. auto parts store.

Santo Domingo PP

Click to see attachment 🖼️

430 usd is a LOT of money for a used motor like that. We use copper wound standard 1800 rpm motors and reduce the speed with pulleys and belts. you will have less than 300usd in it and have a brand new motor.

@Butte (PP Philippines) thanks a lot!

Santo Domingo PP

@Butte (PP Philippines) thanks a lot!

https://sciencing.com/reduce-rpms-using-belts-pulleys-7901912.html

How to Reduce RPMs Using Belts & Pulleys

The operation of shafts driven by electric or internal combustion motors or other forms of power is characterized by speed, torque and the location of the shaft. The load to be driven by the shaft will often require a different speed or torque or will require the transmission of power to an adjacent shaft. Reducing ...

Yeah Let me send you a dm

i cant reply right now. 8am, have to go to the shop and open up

Hi all! Does anyone know how and where I can find automatic injection machines to make plastic tiles for production? Thank you!

Hello, I am looking for a machine manufacturer to mix sand and plastic to make bricks for house and a hydraulic pres machine for molding. The machine name is simple screw extruder machine

Deleted User

Hi all! Does anyone know how and where I can find automatic injection machines to make plastic tiles for production? Thank you!

There are automated machines for sale on the bazaar I believe.

$G-schmoney-Mami$

Hello, I am looking for a machine manufacturer to mix sand and plastic to make bricks for house and a hydraulic pres machine for molding. The machine name is simple screw extruder machine

What country are you in?

$G-schmoney-Mami$

Hello, I am looking for a machine manufacturer to mix sand and plastic to make bricks for house and a hydraulic pres machine for molding. The machine name is simple screw extruder machine

hello i also need but i cant work the exact machine becuse of we gonna to modife each part

Hi all, I've just bought this used Motovario motor from Europe, but I need to connect it to a UK power supply. It has blue, brown, black and white wires. Here in the UK we have blue, brown and green/yellow (earth). Anyone know how I can safely convert this to a UK power supply?!

1

1:40 PM

First thing, can you make a photo of the motor info plate? You have several kinds of possibilities, single or three phase, wiring as triangle or star and different voltages .

8:51 PM

The motor is three phase like nearly all motors of this kind, the fourth is probably earth to the motor.

yep

HELP I LIVE IN THE US....

Hello. I live in the US and there is almost no way to get 3 phase power residentially (unless one creates their own), what types of motors can produce the same types of power or you're with only 120v??? Please help

MystroPolymeric

HELP I LIVE IN THE US....

Hello. I live in the US and there is almost no way to get 3 phase power residentially (unless one creates their own), what types of motors can produce the same types of power or you're with only 120v??? Please help

Most homes will have single phase 240 for washing machines. You can use a single to three phase VFD to control the motor on a machine and run the rest of the circuitry on the single phase.

1

CitSciWorkshop

Most homes will have single phase 240 for washing machines. You can use a single to three phase VFD to control the motor on a machine and run the rest of the circuitry on the single phase.

Thx. I know a little about 'variable frequency drivers'. I work for a company with industrial automatic machines... I am wondering what types of motors and gear boxes can be modified to small scale? Say, what discarded appliances?

CitSciWorkshop

Most homes will have single phase 240 for washing machines. You can use a single to three phase VFD to control the motor on a machine and run the rest of the circuitry on the single phase.

The truth, I am looking for a way to take super fast circular motors (like a bench grinder w/3450 rpm to create a shredder) and transfer that energy into a gear box... Or tell me I'm crazy?

Hello. I have a lawnmower motor left over from an old project that never got completed and I was wondering if it was powerful enough to run at least the basic shredder. It's produced by "YUYAO LANSHAN MOTOR CO. LTD" and from a Ryobi lawnmower. Specs listed on the motor are: 18 volts dc, 30 amps.

1

12:40 AM

Would be awesome if it's good enough, because then I could use Ryobi batteries to power it cordless.

Char

Hello. I have a lawnmower motor left over from an old project that never got completed and I was wondering if it was powerful enough to run at least the basic shredder. It's produced by "YUYAO LANSHAN MOTOR CO. LTD" and from a Ryobi lawnmower. Specs listed on the motor are: 18 volts dc, 30 amps.

I am looking at the same concept, would a high speed motor with proper gear box turn a slow moving shaft? Or is that more of a flywheel setup???

I was thinking a decent gearbox would work. Pretty sure precious plastics specified 2.2 kWh geared down to 17 rpm (for the basic shredder) (edited)

@Char Hey, how handy are you with discarded tools? There is a wealth of motors just sitting around waiting to rust

Not very, unfortunately.

1:11 AM

I mainly work with new tools and materials, I'm only just now starting to get into recycling really.

@Char That's actually great, that means there is more to learn and your experience is needed, desperately.

(edited)

I was disappointed when I saw literally 0 precious plastics organizations in my state on the map.

1:13 AM

So my thought process was basically, no competition!

1:14 AM

Kinda nvm, just looks like a lot of people. (edited)

Char

I was disappointed when I saw literally 0 precious plastics organizations in my state on the map.

There is. My City

needs some help. Of all the resources going to a land fill, my "competition" is challenging companies to rethink what waste is and I won't stop until they prove me right.

Char

So my thought process was basically, no competition!

What is 'nvm'? I am learning so many different acronyms that my Google search engine is no longer optimizing

Nevermind (is what nvm means) (edited)

Char

Nevermind (is what nvm means) (edited)

Ok.

I spent my day off from my rat race to study ABS and PLA, how 3d printer resources are created.

Funny you say that, my goal is to create 3d printer filament among other things. (edited)

1:25 AM

HDPE and PET (not PETE) are probably your best bets from recycled materials, maybe some ABS.

Char

Funny you say that, my goal is to create 3d printer filament among other things. (edited)

Well then, let's not make funnies and talk serious. My name is Manny or call me Mystro. Message me. I have started an Action Plan, and now I can't stop.

Char

HDPE and PET (not PETE) are probably your best bets from recycled materials, maybe some ABS.

Oh. Thx for that. I have a friend/associate that made his own 3d printer

️

Here's what I've gathered so far: Plastic sources: PET (disposable water bottles mainly), HDPE (chemical bottles, like hydrogen peroxide or isopropyl alcohol, make sure they're not PETE though) Production (in order): extrusion machine, water bath (to cool down the newly extruded filament line), measuring device (to check tolerances), and a winder (to put it on a roll)

1:36 AM

I gotta go though, talk to you later.

Char

Here's what I've gathered so far: Plastic sources: PET (disposable water bottles mainly), HDPE (chemical bottles, like hydrogen peroxide or isopropyl alcohol, make sure they're not PETE though) Production (in order): extrusion machine, water bath (to cool down the newly extruded filament line), measuring device (to check tolerances), and a winder (to put it on a roll)

Nice. Find me here

@MystroPolymeric If you find a gearbox capable of handling >3000 rpm then you could probably try it. But still, your bench grinder will have something like 500 Watts, which is far from enough to drive a shredder, unless you want to turn it down to 10 rpm.

@Char "Ryobi lawnmower. Specs listed on the motor are: 18 volts dc, 30 amps." W = V*A , so 18 * 30 is 540 Watts, so again, far from the 2,5 kw in the specs.

2

1

Hi guys, Trying to find sheetpress system blueprints (there is no system blueprints in the download kit), Is it possible to download it and where can I find the link, Thanks thumbsup

Hey guys! Where can I find .cad files for injection molds?

Does anyone know how to make a simple yet effective Bearing Body? Its the only part left before I can start to build my extruder. The Pp one seems very complicated and letting it being build for me by a company is unfortunately out of my budget Help would be appreciated!

Hi all, I wanted to ask if you can use a heat press machine used for clothing as a smaller version of the sheet press shown by Precious Plastic? This would be to create a 3.5mm sheet of shredded plastic. Thank you.

1

a continuous extrusion precious plastic beam die under construction. We extrude in the tube, (3mm side wall) and outer is 100mm stainless steel water jacket we pump water thru and pass thru our heat exchange. Lets hope there is enough heat transfer to make a solid beam with good surface finish. Chances are good, as we are using a v3 ish extrusion with the upgraded screw that only does between 5-6 kilo per hour. if we have the v4 pro we would need a much larger heat exchanger and longer cooling jacket to handle the 4x greater heat we need to remove. Testing this afternoon. only need to weld a couple pipe fittings, connect everything and fire up the machine

royaltyartfan

Hi all, I wanted to ask if you can use a heat press machine used for clothing as a smaller version of the sheet press shown by Precious Plastic? This would be to create a 3.5mm sheet of shredded plastic. Thank you.

it works, others have demonstrated it, however very slow and suitable only for hobby project. also not much compression pressure is able to be applied so you will not get the success like the higher pressure mahcines (edited)

1

wow cool tests!

1

So the afternoons test results are in... Does not work at 50x50mm beams. I think because the heat transfer thru plastic is so slow. Which makes it cold on the outside, hot on the center. I tried lowering extrusion temperature and the extrusion screw pushed back out of the barrel from the pressure. Other issues was the outside was cold, but then it acted like a pipe and hot plastic shot thru the center. It was a LOT of pressure. I deformed 3mm stainless steel square tube that was the die. Well we know at least one way NOT to make beams.

2

Hello everyone! Being a maker teacher at a school and long time precious plastic fan I ask myself: is there someone selling fully built shredder machines that comply CE standards, etc. ? I would love to introduce plastic recycling at the school, but the expectation for safety certificates is huge! Otherwise I would already have built up one on my own

Thanks !

I am overwhelmed with the variety of metals there are, is there a page with information that shares what type of metal is best for shredding certain materials? I am researching where/how to get parts cut for a shredding machine to shred acrylic. There are a gazillion kinds of metals/steel out there! Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Can we make manholes using plastic and iron

4:32 PM

Manhole cap

Hello! I’m an undergrad student from Seattle, WA, USA. I’m currently enrolled in a Social Enterprise course in which my group and I are developing a theoretical business. We have decided to focus on developing plastic waste infrastructure on the island of Lombok, Indonesia utilizing some of the plastic shredding machines from Precious Plastics; currently, we are trying to figure out what the costs of upkeep and maintenance for these machines are on average. We would appreciate any feedback, no matter where you are in the world. Thank you so much!

Can we talk Extruder pro Screw sourcing for a sec? If you follow the BOM from PP it takes you to this link: https://zswxlg.en.alibaba.com/product/60505930848-218408750/zhoushan_38CroMoALA_single_screw_barrel_for_extruder_china_feeding_screw_with_good_price.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.rect38f22d.1.746831ccImWL44 This item doesnt have a set price, so I clicked on get a quote, and now within the last few days I have 56 messages all asking me for more details on my requested part. The quotes range from 300-2000+. Has anybody else gone through this process? Wondering if you have a recommended seller.

Zhoushan 38cromoala Single Screw Barrel For Extruder/china Feeding ...

Zhoushan 38cromoala Single Screw Barrel For Extruder/china Feeding Screw With Good Price - Buy 38cromoala Screw,Feeding Screw,China Zhoushan Single Screw Product on Alibaba.com

royaltyartfan

Hi all, I wanted to ask if you can use a heat press machine used for clothing as a smaller version of the sheet press shown by Precious Plastic? This would be to create a 3.5mm sheet of shredded plastic. Thank you.

I've been looking at those at times, the potential pressure seems better than a panini maker but there's only one heated plate ay? For 3.5mm thickness I think it should work fine.

1

CathdM

I've been looking at those at times, the potential pressure seems better than a panini maker but there's only one heated plate ay? For 3.5mm thickness I think it should work fine.

Thanks for the response! Very much appreciated

@TEglen https://m.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project#

30mm diameter extrusion screw for Precious Plastic project - RobotDigg

Screw and Barrel for Plastic Recycling RobotDigg are glad to work with worldwide Plastic Recycling projects which can help to reduce, repair, reuse, and recycle the Plastics. This extrusion screw is d...

Butte (PP Philippines)

So the afternoons test results are in... Does not work at 50x50mm beams. I think because the heat transfer thru plastic is so slow. Which makes it cold on the outside, hot on the center. I tried lowering extrusion temperature and the extrusion screw pushed back out of the barrel from the pressure. Other issues was the outside was cold, but then it acted like a pipe and hot plastic shot thru the center. It was a LOT of pressure. I deformed 3mm stainless steel square tube that was the die. Well we know at least one way NOT to make beams.

If you want to avoid part of the problem, you need to shorten the die a lot but you also need to bring the center part of the plastic extrusion close to the sides. There are a few possibilities for that but if you don't have some convection, the outside of the future beam insulate the core from the heat. I have done plenty of numerical simulations with different cooling system, you just cannot cool the core due to the thermal properties of the plastic.

11:02 AM

We also lost a few dies

11:03 AM

One of the easiest thing to test is a right angle die. We won't test it we are going for a predie diversion

11:09 AM

you can cool in 20 cm, maybe less

Thats whai im figuring, maybe 25mm max

Quick Question: I am building the Basic shredder currently....I just wanted to confirm the Threaded Rods and all screws used are M12?!

Hello everybody! Someone cuold help me ti choise the right motor for the basic shredder?? Please

André Benimakers

Hello everyone! Being a maker teacher at a school and long time precious plastic fan I ask myself: is there someone selling fully built shredder machines that comply CE standards, etc. ? I would love to introduce plastic recycling at the school, but the expectation for safety certificates is huge! Otherwise I would already have built up one on my own

Thanks !

plasticpreneuer sells machines with CE. there is also a French manufacturer, who i think was a member of the PP V4, who was in the process of getting the CE certificates.

1

@André Benimakers check out https://www.instagram.com/lerecycleurfou/

1

Guys, does anyone know where I could find a blueprint for a cooling press? Is there one on the precious plastic website? I can’t seem to find it

Hey everybody, making some progress on my log splitter based injector but had a quick question. How much room should I leave at the end of the barrel?

Vishal🦑

Quick Question: I am building the Basic shredder currently....I just wanted to confirm the Threaded Rods and all screws used are M12?!

Check on the shredder body. Pretty sure the holes are 11mm ○

Hii, we have been testing our excluder for some time now and we are facing an issue with the molds ending up being stuck. We have a v4 Pro machine and are using hdpe in a 4cmx4cm x 150cmstainless steel tube mold and a 2cm x 5cm x 120cm stainless tube mold. Any ideas on what to do to not have the molds get stuck. We tried heating them while we inject the plastic in them but it's the same issue. Please helpppppp.

Raakkoo

Hii, we have been testing our excluder for some time now and we are facing an issue with the molds ending up being stuck. We have a v4 Pro machine and are using hdpe in a 4cmx4cm x 150cmstainless steel tube mold and a 2cm x 5cm x 120cm stainless tube mold. Any ideas on what to do to not have the molds get stuck. We tried heating them while we inject the plastic in them but it's the same issue. Please helpppppp.

It's the stainless material of the mould. Plastic sticks to it whereas brass plumbing fittings do not. Have you tried a mould release spray?

royaltyartfan

Hi all, I wanted to ask if you can use a heat press machine used for clothing as a smaller version of the sheet press shown by Precious Plastic? This would be to create a 3.5mm sheet of shredded plastic. Thank you.

Hi @royaltyartfan , I use a heat press for my plastic. I have built molds out of pressed steel that fit in the press. I then melt the plastic in the mold using the heat press and press it in a bottle jack press. You can see the process in the following video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tozjozraKAY. I use this process because I cut the plastic with a CNC machine so I need the thickness to be consistent. You don't need the molds to use the heat press.

MrSimmoM

Making a ring from recycled plastic

Shoti

Guys, does anyone know where I could find a blueprint for a cooling press? Is there one on the precious plastic website? I can’t seem to find it

Hi, I have been looking for cooling table blueprint too, but there is no any. After assembling hot press (sheetpress) it is possible to use sheetpress blueprint as reference in cooling press assembly process. Minor differences with sheetpress blueprint (~10) required due to reduced tubes diameter so be careful with measuring and cutting. At general cooling table is just simplified version of hot press. And 3d .step model of cooling press is full of info, e-drawing viwer is ok to visualise it. Good luck!

prostorrrusik

Hi, I have been looking for cooling table blueprint too, but there is no any. After assembling hot press (sheetpress) it is possible to use sheetpress blueprint as reference in cooling press assembly process. Minor differences with sheetpress blueprint (~10) required due to reduced tubes diameter so be careful with measuring and cutting. At general cooling table is just simplified version of hot press. And 3d .step model of cooling press is full of info, e-drawing viwer is ok to visualise it. Good luck!

Do you know whether thick aluminum sheets are required for the cooling press? And if yes, then what is their purpose? And how thick should they be?

Shoti

Do you know whether thick aluminum sheets are required for the cooling press? And if yes, then what is their purpose? And how thick should they be?

BOM file for sheetpress system upgrades, download kit

Hey Team. I'm looking for a single phase motor to power a PP V2.0 shredder. Any suggestions? Or can I use two smaller motors? Any ideas would help. (edited)

Hi @Shoti There is a 1.5x1.5m version of the sheetpress that we've released as a howto. this one contains all drawings - for the cooling press, prep table etc. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

MystroPolymeric

Hey Team. I'm looking for a single phase motor to power a PP V2.0 shredder. Any suggestions? Or can I use two smaller motors? Any ideas would help. (edited)

have a look at the pinned messages

sonik

@MystroPolymeric If you find a gearbox capable of handling >3000 rpm then you could probably try it. But still, your bench grinder will have something like 500 Watts, which is far from enough to drive a shredder, unless you want to turn it down to 10 rpm.

Thank you

✅

sonik

@Char "Ryobi lawnmower. Specs listed on the motor are: 18 volts dc, 30 amps." W = V*A , so 18 * 30 is 540 Watts, so again, far from the 2,5 kw in the specs.

Thank you again. Has anyone attempted building gear boxes? Our group PP New England has opened a dialogue that combines precious material and renewable energy. We plan to tackle both in the future.

blk.wth

It's the stainless material of the mould. Plastic sticks to it whereas brass plumbing fittings do not. Have you tried a mould release spray?

I cant find the right mold release spray here. We tried WD40 but that made things worse. Will see if we can get any brass molds. Thanks

9:25 PM

So I've been messing with this kit for a while now and I've had to actually get another one of the water jet cut. It still seems like we're missing pieces as the lower two metal pieces in the photo don't have any sort of bits that they correspond to or connect to. Could mind a V3 instead of a V4 shredder? And if so where do I find the plans for this do I need to get a bunch of more parts water jet cut???

Ok so I have the 2.1 shredder, where do I find more info on this? Should I upgrade?

I picked up this for a good price. just needs a clean up and a couple of bearings replaced. I will be able to recycle much larger items

9:38 AM

@jakeyeah. this looks awesomely brutal. If, or rather when you manage it to work, please share a video. Shafts are connected via gears i suppose?

@magi SVK yes. 2 x 11kw motors through gears. I had it working before i pulled it down but its got a bad outer bearing from not getting grease. Has plently of power, i put a car tyre in it and it ate it no problems. (edited)

3

Can anyone here tell me the exact size of shredding chamber of shredder 2.1?all i see on preciousplastic pages are full dimensions together with engine and table

@Gallon mine is 14,8 x 12,3 cm

Hello everyone, im new to this community and new to the vision of recycling of plastic. But from watching precious plastic videos, i was moved by what could be achieved by recycling plastic. So i have decided to take part. My problem though is building the machines. I travel to the USA on various occassions so i was wondering, could someone give me information towards or know about a shop in the USA that could reproduce the pro version of the machines in the series and at what cost.

1

@Donald @CitSciWorkshop is your best bet!

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

@Donald @CitSciWorkshop is your best bet!

Thats your work shop? Or could i find there website with that name?

@Donald Rory is a good friend, we collaborate and work independently. Happy to help with your USA Shredder Pro questions as needed!

jakeyeah.

I picked up this for a good price. just needs a clean up and a couple of bearings replaced. I will be able to recycle much larger items

Hey @jakeyeah. She's beautiful

if you don't mind me asking where did you two meet???

(edited)

1

The pro shredder, the pro sheet press and the pro extruder. What would the cost be to build those three machines for me???

Donald

The pro shredder, the pro sheet press and the pro extruder. What would the cost be to build those three machines for me???

I will try and direct message you so this channel stays focused on machine shop questions.

Thank you

I am interested in this too!

9:35 PM

The same questions

burgertea

The same questions

yes, same here

Good evening here I hope you are well. we are currently making a plastic crusher model precious plastic, but we have a problem with the assembly of the blades. I am a member of Kouraya Company in Mali (Bamako). The first model we made was done with too much tinkering because we didn't have a precision machine to cut our irons. This time we were able to cut them out with precision but it was difficult to assemble; I would need the number of blades and teeth as well as the small details for the first version of the shredder in our community. Here is my whatapps number: 00223 74944672 I want to trade on the platform frequently but frankly I'm bad at English; I always translate my french. Thank you in advance for your help.

1:57 AM

1:59 AM

2:02 AM

this is the shreeder that we do

@MystroPolymeric I run a business doing repairs and service work on waste and materials handling equipment. Its mostly cardboard compactors or larger equipment. But every now and then i come across interesting or smaller stuff. I would like to get myself a nice size extruder and granulator next. This shredder has a 30mm screen so its to big for a final product. But perfect for reducing larger items

Hi all, I'm working on a smaller version of the sheet press to recycle acrylic offcuts from jewellery making. Currently testing and acrylic doesnt seem to be getting liquid enough to form. We have the press set to 180 degrees and as much pressure on the sheet as I dare, Just wondered if anyone had had experience of squashing acrylic before and could give some advice. I didn't know if it was worth getting a more powerful jack or maybe the acrylic can stand to be heated to a higher temp to make it more liquid?

@CitSciWorkshop I tried to message you about building a couple machines for me as well if you're interested, but was unable to send as I'm not your friend. When I tried to add you, it said you're not accepting friend requests. Could you add me please?

anru7695

@CitSciWorkshop I tried to message you about building a couple machines for me as well if you're interested, but was unable to send as I'm not your friend. When I tried to add you, it said you're not accepting friend requests. Could you add me please?

Friend request sent!

@CitSciWorkshop Thank you! Resent the original message.

buenas tardes soy de argentina, estoy necesitando los ejes para la maquina trituradora anterior y para la pro

liamthreecreate

Hi all, I'm working on a smaller version of the sheet press to recycle acrylic offcuts from jewellery making. Currently testing and acrylic doesnt seem to be getting liquid enough to form. We have the press set to 180 degrees and as much pressure on the sheet as I dare, Just wondered if anyone had had experience of squashing acrylic before and could give some advice. I didn't know if it was worth getting a more powerful jack or maybe the acrylic can stand to be heated to a higher temp to make it more liquid?

acrylic's melting point is 320 degrees fahrenheit, 160 degrees celsius, I think you need more heat!

Indernatur9000

acrylic's melting point is 320 degrees fahrenheit, 160 degrees celsius, I think you need more heat!

We had the plates set to 180C but maybe the heat isn't penetrating into the material enough? Not sure what the upper bound for heating acrylic is?

Hello, has anyone tried making bricks with V3 extrusion machine?

Hey PP people. I am working on a v2 shredder in the USA and I have a questions about power supply. My 5hp 1ph has a full load rating of 20.5 amps @ 230 Volts. The in-rush amperage of the motor start I calculated @ 136-154 amps. I ended up picking up a 100 amp circuit breaker for my basement circuit breaker because that is all that I could find I hope this works as magnetic protection for short circuits. As for thermal overload protection for the conductors (10 gauge rated @ 30A) I found this WEG Electric manual motor protector (link below). I think I can even use this as a disconnect/overload and then run to a Rotary on-off-on switch for forward reverse. Am I on the right track? How do I mount this? https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motor_controls/iec_manual_motor_protectors/manual_motor_protectors_(01_to_63_amp)/mpw40-3-u025 Thanks everyone

Motor Protector: 45mm frame, 20-25A adjustable (PN# MPW40-3-U025) |...

MPW40-3-U025 - WEG Electric manual motor protector, rotary, 25A, thermal overload, 20.0-25.0A adjustable, 325A instantaneous trip rating, open, 45mm frame.

I have found a great deal of info from this video stream when it comes to motors and all the way up to automation and programmable machine parts... Just want to share where I get my info from

https://youtu.be/wEwX2PRebVU

RealPars

Motor Starter Explained | Motor Starter Types

Hey - does anyone know where I can either buy or get the CAD files for a mould to use with an oven + compression set up in order to make sheets of around 200x300mm with thickness of around 10mm? Would be a huge help!

@mikeymikes. Look at devlab, they are on the german discord:

6:27 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euEpTkpO0yM&ab_channel=DevLabNRW

DevLab NRW

DevLab Quicky - ABS Platten aus Industriepellets mit der Gen2 Form ...

sonik

@mikeymikes. Look at devlab, they are on the german discord:

thank you!

Hey there friends! Was wondering if I could get some help with something. Im starting a ewaste company with a few friends but we need a hard drive degausser/shredder and was wondering if there is a way to retrofit the pro shredder to allow it to handle hard drives and other ewaste.

2:22 AM

Thoughts or should I reconsider?

ThudGnarly

Hey there friends! Was wondering if I could get some help with something. Im starting a ewaste company with a few friends but we need a hard drive degausser/shredder and was wondering if there is a way to retrofit the pro shredder to allow it to handle hard drives and other ewaste.

Thermite is effective, inexpensive, and easy to make...I think you'd need a larger shred width, double the width of the blades and more power. (I'm assuming your shredding the entire drive vs the discs)

Yeah mainly the entire drive- just wasnt sure if the motor and teeth could hand something as robust as a metal hard drives.

That's the hard part. HD Shredders I've seen have been big...15hp, but I know there are small/portable designs out there.

Hello everyone.. Can i use flat heaters directly on the 10mm aluminium sheet on my sheet press.??

Experienced eyes needed, 99% sure but just checking this a 40:1 ratio, cheers

3:43 AM

the plastic brick mold needs some refinements for production. Nothing too big. Welding quick release clamps to the mold or vice grips directly to the mold will go a lot farther to speeding up demolding and reassembly of molds. Designing a steel/ wood jig to place molds in to separate the brick from the mold will be something else. Either something to hold the parts and using a rubber hammer to separate or a modded scissor jack to provide force.

3:45 AM

we also need a proper cooling tank. Using a blue barrel sliced lengthwise at the moment.

3:46 AM

Next variation would be a steel half drum on a metal stand with a drain valve on the bottom and a aquarium pump to circulate the water for better heat transfer.

3:47 AM

likely with a v4 extrusion machine, we would need at least 2-3 3 piece mold, and 1 of each of the rest for continuous production and likely 2 workers full time. Combined with needing a lot more shred plastic.

3:49 AM

We tried using unwashed straight from the junk shop and then shredded plastic. It had a lot of dirt in it. Quality did not seem to be affected as much, however adequate masking, and material handling will need to be observed as that material is full of germs. Extrusion process sterilizes the end product, but still...

Butte (PP Philippines)

So the afternoons test results are in... Does not work at 50x50mm beams. I think because the heat transfer thru plastic is so slow. Which makes it cold on the outside, hot on the center. I tried lowering extrusion temperature and the extrusion screw pushed back out of the barrel from the pressure. Other issues was the outside was cold, but then it acted like a pipe and hot plastic shot thru the center. It was a LOT of pressure. I deformed 3mm stainless steel square tube that was the die. Well we know at least one way NOT to make beams.

I think there is a issue related with die material, stainless steel works as an insulating material, making more difficult the heat transfer. You should better use simple carbon steel die or even you could using iron, aluminum or cooper whose conductivity is greater than steel. As this is theorical, I am not sure how much impact die material could have in cooling the beam.

Likely none. Having built 3 prwvious liquid cooled dies already. The plastic heat transfer is the issue

hello, i'm searching for cheap entry into precious plastic world, as the whole toolchain is quite expensive. did anybody use/buy this cheap shredder and can give a comment on it? how is the quality, does ist work good with lower amounts of plastic and does it survive some weeks of usage? the creator is telling he had already build/sold 100+ of them. apparently, it is single axle grinder (instread of dual axis contra rotating) , which is the main reason why i'm unsure if it's worth a try at all: https://www.ebay.de/itm/184001447081?ul_noapp=true

Shredder for plastic flasche plastic bottle crusher Maschine zum Re...

Finden Sie Top-Angebote für Shredder for plastic flasche plastic bottle crusher Maschine zum Recycling VIDEO bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!

RolandCGN

hello, i'm searching for cheap entry into precious plastic world, as the whole toolchain is quite expensive. did anybody use/buy this cheap shredder and can give a comment on it? how is the quality, does ist work good with lower amounts of plastic and does it survive some weeks of usage? the creator is telling he had already build/sold 100+ of them. apparently, it is single axle grinder (instread of dual axis contra rotating) , which is the main reason why i'm unsure if it's worth a try at all: https://www.ebay.de/itm/184001447081?ul_noapp=true

The precious plastic basic shredder is also a single axis shredder and many people use it here, as i understand with decent results. So i don't think that i would be looking at the single axis characteristic as a problem. I like the compactness of the item you are looking at. What looks weird to me though, is what i see in the hopper, at the ad's images. The shredding teeth geometry doesn't look really promising, or i don't understand it exactly. Also it doesn't seem like there is a gearbox included, and i wonder what would be the characteristics, power and efficiency of this orientation...

1

https://youtu.be/gsVt097JQ_k

Precious Plastic Philippines

Sharpening Our Plastic Shredder Blades

7:02 AM

https://youtu.be/A1YuSMTK-FI

Precious Plastic Philippines

Inside Our Plastic Shredder v4.2

7:02 AM

Inside our shredder. This is only spun by hand here

RolandCGN

hello, i'm searching for cheap entry into precious plastic world, as the whole toolchain is quite expensive. did anybody use/buy this cheap shredder and can give a comment on it? how is the quality, does ist work good with lower amounts of plastic and does it survive some weeks of usage? the creator is telling he had already build/sold 100+ of them. apparently, it is single axle grinder (instread of dual axis contra rotating) , which is the main reason why i'm unsure if it's worth a try at all: https://www.ebay.de/itm/184001447081?ul_noapp=true

I bought one of these. They are pretty good. They dont come with a mesh though so its hard to get small flakes, but I have modded mine to fix this problem. Its great for the price when compared to other shredders.

cool, could you perhaps share some infos regarding your mod? what about the motor and overheating (as it is probably no motor ment for running long)? (edited)

alguien tiene los planos de la trituradora?

What would be the best way of going about getting this machined? 3/4 round with a channel bored out and then a little square stock insert? Any advice before I go out contacting local machinist would be much appreciated

Hi, the only way to do that is to use a lathe and a milling machine. The lathe will make it round and the milling machine will cut the 'keyway' for the little square 'key'

1

hello people, my company is trying to do the plastic bricks, but they are refusing to continue making the moulds until they know what to do about the nozzle

10:31 PM

in the 'Make Extruded Plastic Bricks' page, on step 16, it mentions 'See Extruder Adapter How-To' , but no such article exists

carmatic

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Try this https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

I am about to laser cut in hardox and ms the Shredder pro v1. Before doing this are there any upgrades or improvements I should know about? Is there a V2 machine yet?

urpylka

Hey. I am trying to build Shredder Pro. Maybe someone could answer on my questions

1. Why are some spacers made from Hardox, and some are made from common steel? 2. Can I use something else instead Hardox (common steel maybe)? Thanks!

spacers are regular steel. Only rotating and stationary knives are hardox

Anybody have the Shredder Pro laser cut files made up for laser cutting, all together in a sheet rather than each part separate? I will cut in wear plate 400Hb 1.25m x 2.5m in dimensions.

How about file that u can download on the website ?

Hi! someone can tell me what is the best thermal relay for the extrusion machine? I have a display with input 220V, but I bought 3 kinds of thermal relay...

1:17 AM

Kyle Daniel

Experienced eyes needed, 99% sure but just checking this a 40:1 ratio, cheers

420 hp or 4.20 hp^?

who is able and willing to consult on a sheet press for a client in south africa who builds industrial machines

Hi all, long time ponderer first time poster here. Quick question, I’m building the original injection machine and I’m just wondering what is the ideal size range for ejecting the melted plastic into moulds coming down from the 26mm internal from the barrel?? (edited)

marcos tavares

420 hp or 4.20 hp^?

i think its 4.2hp becouse 420 hp is the power of drag cars you know those cars that can do wheelies

1

Hi, what is the ideal speed of the auger inside the extruder to have a consistent filament diameter? Has anyone perfected the settings?

Hello! We were wondering whether anyone knew what grade of steel would be the most recommended for the sheet press moulds (the sheets rather than the frame)? PP recommends a 2mm stainless steel sheet, but we can't seem to find what grade of steel they use. Thanks

Hey All, there is a new channel focused on the development of washing plastic. Any input from you all would be amazing

#archived-washing

@TRS2021 Don't use stainless steel - we need to update that information. We did some asking around and research and 3mm aluminium seems to be the best choice - stays flatter, easier to handle and sticks less.

@michael_makes_ Thanks Michael for your reply. This is interesting! We actually used 3mm aluminium in our trial runs - the first few sheets looked good but we found that the aluminium was really prone to scratching when cleaning, even with a soft scouring pad. As soon as the cleaning took off some of the shine, our results with PS especially were not great. We also found the aluminium warped after a couple of uses. The alumiumium we used was grade 3003, so maybe there's a stronger version available. Apart from that, in terms of handling - definitely, much lighter than stainless steel and it's (just about) possible to do the process just with one person. We're going to try a few other variables and will let you know how we get on. (edited)

Hi guys! Me and @Pacha are searching for the cad files that were available to make a shredder. Now we can’t find then for the pro version (if there are available) -

anyone?

@CrisLeash 🐙 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download if you download the v4 kit, it should be in there

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Thank you

Hi. In PP webpage owen-press is mentioned as not suitable for production of final products. For prototypes only. My question is - which is the best option for production of bricks, clocks or flower pots? (edited)

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone has a plastic recycling space set up around Watford. I don’t yet have the funds to start one but I C pulse use with a shredding service at least...

4:21 PM

Also, what do you guys use on the press plates before you put the plastic on so it doesn’t stick??? Thanks??

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/A1YuSMTK-FI

this would be considered a hammer mill and could actually be useful because if you would put a heavy flywheel on it you could use a cheaper higher rpm motor what would lower the cost by allot. definitely something cool to look into

and it could even be power by a bicycle. and it would be allot more easier than a normal bike power shredder because its needs speed unlike the normal shredder who needs torque

@TRS2021 you may want to try some 6061T6 or better "tooling plate" which is a cast product. Some of these materials can be hard anodized. Not cheap but light and strong, possible resists bending and warping.

@Platacis if you spend enough time and effort you mught be able to get to a small production scenario. Generally proper injection moulding tooling involves very expensive machinery and tooling, ie injection moulding machines and automation. Thats what it takes for any of these projects $, time, quality, pick two you cant have all three. Ie. If you want it in a reasonable time and high quality it wont be cheap. If you dont have the $ but want the quality its going to take a long time...

@Pacha There is also an update for the small shredder here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

@Pacha There is also an update for the small shredder here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21

Thank you, Thomas. Much appreciated

Does anyone here have a video of pro shredder working? Shredding PET bottles or similar?

Hi everyone! Does anyone know how thick the metal used for the extruded plastic bricks (https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/extruder-moulds/v4-open-brick-mould/) needs to be? I can’t seem to find this information in the blueprints

Hi, I would like to produce shredder-machines, because I have many v4a-metal-spareparts in our workshop and i realy love the idea of precious plastic!

10:21 PM

Where can I found the drawings?

Vegan Monster

Hey guys im Diego and I live in Panama! I am about to order the laser cut pieces for an extruder and shredder pro and was wondering if all the pieces can be done in caliber 18 304 stainless steel?

Hola Diego! Pudiste crear una de esas maquinas? Me interesaría saber si lograste obtener las piezas necesarias...de mi lado estoy armando una inyectara, tambien en Panama! Saludos

Hey guys I had a question. I am currently manufacturing V2.1 basic shredder from scratch and it’s turning out pretty well! I am quite confused with the motor specifications that is required! Can anyone help me with the correct horsepower & torque specs?!

@Vishal🦑 What do you like to shred?

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

@Vishal🦑 What do you like to shred?

Plastic bottles but mainly 1mm polycarbonate sheets

2:53 PM

Open to shred more stuff but that’s the main waste at the factory^^

@Vishal🦑 Look for a motor-gearbox-system, where you have minimum 300Nm on the shredder shaft... I have 740Nm and no problems, also with thicker plastic so far

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CIwDyLqiWDc/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link (edited)

3:09 PM

@Vishal🦑 The 70 r/min should be the maximum in my opinion. Better slower=more torque. I have 35r/min...

have a look also at the pinned message of this channel

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@TRS2021 you may want to try some 6061T6 or better "tooling plate" which is a cast product. Some of these materials can be hard anodized. Not cheap but light and strong, possible resists bending and warping.

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) Thanks for this - we started exploring aluminium strengths a bit more and were told that 3003 was 'like paper', which is why we were having issues. We're going to go for a stronger one and let you know.

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

@Vishal🦑 The 70 r/min should be the maximum in my opinion. Better slower=more torque. I have 35r/min...

Wow okay thank you so much!! This is perfect

‍♂️

7:12 PM

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto love how your machine has turned out!! Looks so fresh & clean

1

Boris FMingako — hoy a las 17:56 Hey! I was wondering if anyone has policies in case of machine failure, and how to proceed with fault diagnosis. Do you charge the client or do you bear the expenses until you determine responsibility?

A random comment maybe, but I noticed allot of people in the US are getting mislead by HP ratings on machines and motors. To find out the real power, just look at the volts and amp to calculate the real HP or KW. Multiply your voltage times your amps, and you have the Watts. Devide the Watt by 745, to get HP (as 1 hp = 745 Watt) or devide by 1000 to get Kw (as Kilo mean 1000).

itsgeorge

What would be the best way of going about getting this machined? 3/4 round with a channel bored out and then a little square stock insert? Any advice before I go out contacting local machinist would be much appreciated

that is called a keyway and shafting. very common machine shop task on the lathe.

wd-40-enjoyer

this would be considered a hammer mill and could actually be useful because if you would put a heavy flywheel on it you could use a cheaper higher rpm motor what would lower the cost by allot. definitely something cool to look into

its not a hammer mill, I build hammer mills sometimes. This has fixed hardox steel blades. the anvil fixed blade and the spinning blade is about 0.1mm spacing. it cuts like a chopper.

MarkHanoi83

A random comment maybe, but I noticed allot of people in the US are getting mislead by HP ratings on machines and motors. To find out the real power, just look at the volts and amp to calculate the real HP or KW. Multiply your voltage times your amps, and you have the Watts. Devide the Watt by 745, to get HP (as 1 hp = 745 Watt) or devide by 1000 to get Kw (as Kilo mean 1000).

kinda, sorta. many motors are inefficient so they take much more than 745 watts per hp output as they will waste the power as heat.

12:00 PM

Building our first V4 Pro extrusion here today,. Closed rest of the week for Easter holiday. Also COVID lockdown and 6pm-5am curfew. no end in sight. Last lockdown was 3 months

12:01 PM

2

12:02 PM

extrusion screw ordered from Robot Digg

@TRS2021 any progress on your sheet selection boundary material for the press. Were you using this for plates also? (edited)

Hi @Mirco (CANADA, ON) We were looking at both 5052 and 6061 as options, although it looks like we'll go for 6061 for the sheet molds. For the heating plates we used 6061 T6 aluminium which was rolled, not precision milled. We have seen that, like PP website says, that it is susceptible to warping which has affected our sheet thickness (in the centre of the sheet) by over 3 mm. Our aim was to keep tolerance below 0.5mm, so there's work to do there.

Thats why I said to look for 6061 tooling plate, it is a cast product, so likely will not warp. (edited)

6:29 PM

The rolled stuff will have stress which can warp when heated.

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) Yep - unfortunately the tooling plate had already been purchased and installed, but we're looking into replacing it along with the moulds.

I was referring to the molds to be made from Aluminum "Tooling Plate" - you are misunderstanding, or I am misunderstanding. You are looking to use the aluminum plate to border the outside of the sheet, correct?

Check this wooden bricks as they are develop very simple! I guess if we could develop this kind of bricks but in more industrial / faster production line would be amazing !! https://www.instagram.com/p/CNAxXinByX0/ @davehakkens

brikawood system

2

Hi, I am currently working on making a pro extruder setup and want to use aluminium extrusion (my woodworking and metal working skills are bad), have more people tried this? I think the setup would look very professional when using this material.

Hi can you tell me the thickness of steel used in the Brick mould ?

5:46 PM

2n point I thought I saw a "How To" video on welding up the Brick mould or was it just the series of pictures

5:46 PM

what thickness is the steel?

@Peter T The thickness is in the name of the download files. but ranges from 5-10mm

Marcel123095

Hi, I am currently working on making a pro extruder setup and want to use aluminium extrusion (my woodworking and metal working skills are bad), have more people tried this? I think the setup would look very professional when using this material.

Citizen Scientific Workshop (Dave) uses this design for all of his professionally made machines. It creates a high quality product when done correctly.

Thanks that appeares excessive to restrict warping @ 210c

Hi Rorythanks for your reply, to explain time dif is 6hrs ahead...so you are still in bed till 1500hrs my time, moving on, it was a professional mould builder that was asking the question, I can not weld, let alone read a CAD dwg... The guy was pointing to a box on the Left hand top line saying: (in THAI) that he would expect a number here, helpfuly he sugested it should be 4mm for the ( Sgl Brick) small, 6mm for the middle (2Brick) and 8mm for the large full size brick, as I understand him with the bracing there will be no warping @ 190ish c

4:51 AM

can anyone help with a full description of the Screw & Barrel on the Pro ie Lenth id od anything special with the screw thred able to deliver 1.5kg of molton plastic to the depth of the mold? any tips would most welcome...

4:56 AM

oh very sorry read befor bursting into print just found the Screw & Barrel numbers. TKS

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto did you powder coat the main shredding component or just spray painted in black?!

I run a record pressing company in Vancouver, Canada. We have an extruder for extruding PVC. I am looking for a smaller one that can extrude about 70grams of PVC per minute. Is the extruder pro capable of extruding PVC, and at that volume?

Stompy Mcstompsabunch

I run a record pressing company in Vancouver, Canada. We have an extruder for extruding PVC. I am looking for a smaller one that can extrude about 70grams of PVC per minute. Is the extruder pro capable of extruding PVC, and at that volume?

according to the website they say it can extrude a beam of 40x40x2000mm in 8 min so that would be around 400cm3 in 1 min 400x1.38 (the density of pvc) would be around 500 grams per min

Thanks! Does anyone know if it will have trouble with PVC? I see other plastics listed on the site, but not PVC.

Stompy Mcstompsabunch

Thanks! Does anyone know if it will have trouble with PVC? I see other plastics listed on the site, but not PVC.

PVC is dangerous as the chlorine binds with water in the air and becomes HCl, a very dangerous acid. PP machines are not suitable for recycling PVC as they are. You would need to add vents and specific safety equipment/ measures to not create hydrochloric acid (edited)

I believe there are stabilizers (tin) in the PVC that scavenge the HCI molecules when they crack. I'm talking about stuff that is over my head here. I don't think there are any special safety measures on the regular extruders in record pressing plants. Julien, do you know more about the vents/specific safety equipment?

The manufacturer that I got my original extruder from says that the safety built into their extruder is about burning the PVC. When it burns it can create the chlorine gas. When it hasn't done anything for five minutes, it automatically shuts down, and cools itself down. It has fans built around the barrel. I wonder if there's a way to build some kind of auto shut down into these extruders.

Stompy Mcstompsabunch

The manufacturer that I got my original extruder from says that the safety built into their extruder is about burning the PVC. When it burns it can create the chlorine gas. When it hasn't done anything for five minutes, it automatically shuts down, and cools itself down. It has fans built around the barrel. I wonder if there's a way to build some kind of auto shut down into these extruders.

It is very possible to implement similar procedures. I am not very interested in PVC as it doesn't float so we are unlikely to find it on the shore. I seem to remember that barrels were equipped with vents. For the cooling it is probably possible to set it up with some Arduino/Raspberry pi or as a solid state system. I would however have an in-depth look into it. For example I don't understand "burning" in recycling you are never close to ignite plastic. You have gas release more or less important with temperature. It is my understanding that PVC degasses a lot but I might be wrong. In a plant, your hoppers dry the plastic efficiently so it is unlikely it will bond with water of the atmosphere. There is no Precious Plastic design that allows that so far. You can find such hopper with RobotDigg (edited)

I am always using only dry PVC.

Hello peeps. New here. Any plans for larger rotary molding rigs being discussed? I'd like to make the connect. Thanks!

Is there a bibliography on a wiki or something? I'm sure there are textbooks on how to do all this since it's established engineering field. Didn't find anything here: (deleted) (edited)

@Dejay Just for information, precious-plastic.org is in no way affiliated to the precious-plastic project of dave hakkens.

1

sonik

@Dejay Just for information, precious-plastic.org is in no way affiliated to the precious-plastic project of dave hakkens.

Jikes, I can't believe I fell for a copycat website! Anyways, bibliography of textbooks might be a good idea.

Hello guys...,...i need to build a plastics extrusion machine as soon as possible. Can anybody help put me through. I need it for an urgent project. I am from Nigeria.

6:18 PM

In addition I am a chemistry student, I have no engineering or physics experience. I need help

@Amidu Do you like to build a small or big extrusion machine? Did you go threw the academy?: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion

Hey here - recently I was wondering about a concept I had in mind to speed up the v3 injection moulding machine. It enables a much faster cycle time (~ +100-200%) because the mould does not need to be clamped to the machine anymore, nor screwed to the nozzle. Principle: The whole structure is screwed onto the injection barrel. A readymade "wedge-clamp" pushes the inner plattform up 10mm to clamp the moulds against the structure itself - so the machine is not affected from the 10t clamping force. The lower plate can be adjusted with some nuts to change for the mould height. The only downside is the 20mm thick steel plates that need to be cutted - so the price for parts would be around 500€ already (Germany). Would be nice to hear your thoughts on it

(edited)

1

@Fritz @easymoulds Where is the gate location? Could the entire assembly be mounted on the ground to negate the load from the lever?

Thats a great idea! By extending the rods to the ground, the load can be reduced and even the general rigidity could be improved! The gate location would be through the plate of the mould (you could not inject through the splitline at this setup)

12:07 PM

Assembling it fully to the ground would mean that the barrel position would need to be very precisely aligned. Not sure most machines made were built with that precision. (edited)

1

Folk,hiw safe is it to buy shredders or anything else from preciousplastics bazar?who can guarantee me that the guy im buying it from will actually send it to me?

Gallon

Folk,hiw safe is it to buy shredders or anything else from preciousplastics bazar?who can guarantee me that the guy im buying it from will actually send it to me?

I'm pretty sure all the vendors on the bazar are safe, like they are vetted somehow? How you pay could potentially make things safer, going through Paypal for example. As long as the people/vendor communicates and responds to your messages then they should be okay...never purchased though, just my two cents, good luck

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

@Amidu Do you like to build a small or big extrusion machine? Did you go threw the academy?: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion

I want to build a small extrusion machine, I am yet to go through the academy. I think I will do that now.

Can anyone here post video of basic shredder shredding pet soda bottle? I dont want to buy it if its only for hard plastic

Gallon

Folk,hiw safe is it to buy shredders or anything else from preciousplastics bazar?who can guarantee me that the guy im buying it from will actually send it to me?

we try to keep the bazar as safe as possible with our own checks but make sure to always do your research and background check on your seller.. cross check them on other platforms and check their ratings on the bazar.. keeping the transaction within the Bazar also gives you extra guarantee even though Precious Plastic is not responsible for sellers. Hope it helps and happy melting

Hi Guys ! I hope you are well ? All of you ! I tried purchasing a shredder from the Bazar , but the shipping to South Africa literally doubled the price ! Now I am going to try and build it myself! Can anyone please please assist me with the schematics of files for the laser cut items for the shredder pro? I already sourced a 4 kw single phase motor to use! ANY assistance will be greatly appreciated! - PS please DM me directly if you have the schematics or files ! thanks

Hi , I have a question regarding the sheet press and im hoping there's anyone who might have built one already who can answer it. I see that the heating plate is made of 10mm aluminium. With the high pressure and the high temperature i wondered if this is actually safe (aluminium losing strenght temps above 100c) and how this is accounted for.

https://grabcad.com/library/mini-plastic-shredder-1

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3:45 PM

Has anyone here seen or built one of these?its not from preciousplastic designs but it seems to do the job

Can anyone point me to information about the best way to sharpen shredder blades?

Hi I have few question regarding the sheet press if anyone can help me I would appreciate it my question is how much time to make a 4mm PP sheet and how many kilos of plastic does it require?

Batman

Hi I have few question regarding the sheet press if anyone can help me I would appreciate it my question is how much time to make a 4mm PP sheet and how many kilos of plastic does it require?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpress there is a chart here for the different thicknesses, 4mm is not there but you can just convert it from the other thickneses

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A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

Stomper Pupper

Hello guys, I'm trying to start PP here in San Francisco can you please advise me which methods would be applicable to creating table legs?

@Stomper Pupper Did you ever start a Bay Area chapter? I live in Oakland and would love to join.

Does anyone know how to decide on number pulley tooths on increasing its torque output for DC stepper motor? Would appreciate if someone could guide me in right direction

Folks

12:36 PM

Does anyone here own basic shredder from bazar??

Please tag me when answer so i know someone replied

Hi! I am building a filament extruder (with 21mm auger bit) right now, and I have everything except for the motor, since I don't know what motor I shall buy. I once had a wiper motor, but I read it isn't optimal for usable filament. I am thinking about a stepper, so I could control it more precisely. What motor would be optimal? (edited)

Hi all. The auger screw is a big part of the cost of an extruder machine. Has any one tried forcing the melted HDPE out the nozzle buy pressurising the tank that holds the melt.? Only problem I can see is that the required pressure may be very high. My small compressor can do up to 10bar. Would that be enough. Thanks guys

how do i check out macinery on the bazzer?i cant find it onthe menu

I am looking to buy a shredder/grinder too. I was thinking of buying one from an industrial seller second hand, but I have no idea what the specs should be. I tried a PP machine, I think it was a V1 or V2, it was way too small and finicky. Does anyone have recommendations on the size? I would like to grind PP and HDPE bottles etc. I am based in North Carolina. (edited)

Kelvin Sirco

how do i check out macinery on the bazzer?i cant find it onthe menu

Under the precious plastic logo is a machines menu if you hover over that you should get plenty of options of which one you would like to get and if you click on it you get to this link: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/

Precious Plastic Machines

Looking for a Shredder for donation would like to start the same in Kenya

Has anyone had success with using a valve on the end of the injector? I've seen mention of it here and there, but no details. It seems like there aren't many valves rated for the necessary temperatures, and the one that I tried got gummed up too quickly to use.

Its a cool idea but I think keeping it hot enough for the plastic to stay fluid is the hard part

I suspected as much---Are there other solutions for opening/closing the port that are better than the plug? Once the plastic starts oozing out I can't get it in there.

I experimented with a gate. Basically welding an extension to the nozzle, and to close you slide a blocking gate in. It worked, but also acted as a huge heat sink so similar problems to valve. Though some people use a car jack underneath for their moulds. This also has the advantage of being a stopper when not in use?

Interesting. I'll experiment a little bit. Thanks!

SqueezeTheorem

Has anyone had success with using a valve on the end of the injector? I've seen mention of it here and there, but no details. It seems like there aren't many valves rated for the necessary temperatures, and the one that I tried got gummed up too quickly to use.

The best chance you may have is with a full brass ball valve. The draw back is that any extension that is not close to the last heater strip may have cooling affect it and hence it will get gummed up. if you are able to fit the heater onto the ball valve that may work but usually the diamters are not the same, perhaps another type of cartridge heaters can be used there. (edited)

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

The best chance you may have is with a full brass ball valve. The draw back is that any extension that is not close to the last heater strip may have cooling affect it and hence it will get gummed up. if you are able to fit the heater onto the ball valve that may work but usually the diamters are not the same, perhaps another type of cartridge heaters can be used there. (edited)

Thanks. I don't have a good feel for the thermal profile of the injector yet, but I'll look into full brass ball valves. Maybe some insulation along the barrel could persuade enough heat into the valve to keep it from gumming up? Would rather not fiddle with electronics if I don't have to---seems like a real quick way to lose a lot of time.

That might help but at the end of the day heat rises...mostly anyway, so the heating that is occuring below is primarily from the flow of molten plastic, which will stop when you turn the valve of course...

Hey guys new machine builder asking question about the powerbox. I have power coming in from a plug going into one side of dinkle terminal block. I want 3 outputs, 2 larger guage wires (10 guage) going to L1's of forward and reverse contactors and 1 smaller guage wire (12 guage) going to rotary and then auxillarys controlling the contactors. What's the best method of getting multiple outputs from a dinkle terminal?

bonjour, est ce que quelqu'un parle français ?

1

#injection #mould Hi! We have the shredder and the injection machine working all ok

(almost all ok

) we are now going to make out first injection mould. All is clear on how to make the hexagonal mould except of one thing: Hole for the plastic: what is its diameter?!

Hi everyone!

I'm am in process of building injection machine, and got to a problem. I cannot see it on CAD model... How tight should be tolerance between injection Barrell and injection plunger?

Thanks for answers!

Hiya! Could someone help me to know what are the Motor specs or features ? please!

10:13 PM

I mean how many HP or Watts, and voltage

Dolphin313

#injection #mould Hi! We have the shredder and the injection machine working all ok

(almost all ok

) we are now going to make out first injection mould. All is clear on how to make the hexagonal mould except of one thing: Hole for the plastic: what is its diameter?!

Start small and bore it out as you see fit, maybe start at 5mm. The bigger the hole, the bigger the sprue but the plastic will flow into the mould easier.

blazrezabek

Hi everyone!

I'm am in process of building injection machine, and got to a problem. I cannot see it on CAD model... How tight should be tolerance between injection Barrell and injection plunger?

Thanks for answers!

Depending on what pipe you have access to, up to 2-3mm clearance will be fine if your shredded plastic is chunky. Plastic can get wedged in between the barrel and plunger if there is too large a gap.

1

Lups

Hiya! Could someone help me to know what are the Motor specs or features ? please!

Shredder or extruder?

blk.wth

Depending on what pipe you have access to, up to 2-3mm clearance will be fine if your shredded plastic is chunky. Plastic can get wedged in between the barrel and plunger if there is too large a gap.

Thanks! So the smaller the gap, the better

I am building a farm in Africa. I was wondering how to crush biodegradable waste from fruits vegetables and tree branches and others to use for the production of Beyond-plastic would a normal Shredder work I would need to have it petrol powered as I don't have any electricity. does anyone experimented with that?

Hello, does anyone here have the information of ideal/best rpm for regular shredder version? I found somewhere on preciousplastic site torque should be at least 300nM but not the rpm

1:47 PM

Just took another look to site,im guessing this is my answer Output Speed ±70 r/min So,70 rpm?

@Gallon In my opinion 70rpm is a lot, I have 35rpm and 734Nm (but 400Nm is also ok;)) Depends on the gear motors you can get and afford... (edited)

Great,regarding nM, do i need 300-400nM if i would only shred PET bottles?

@Gallon I think I wrote this before, the bottle neck of the PET bottles can be very strong, difficult for the basic shredder I think, maybe someone tried? (edited)

I have seen the basic shredder on video shredding PEHD bottles on yt pisted by onearmy. So im guessing it should be more than capable to shred the bottle neck?

1:58 PM

https://youtu.be/j6Ghwd29W-o

One Army

Plastic Shredder prototype testrun

These are thicker and stronger than the HDPE ones. Someone shredded this with the basic shredder??

@Gillou91 Oui!

Crap,i hope ot shredds them,i asked few times on discord and everyone said basic shredder can shred those and i ordered one for almost 400E

Hi guys. I busy using the sheet press but get severe bowing on my plastic sheets. New or recycled plastics. I have a bottom and top 1mm sheet and a 12mm high steel frame. I am getting flash out between the frame and top plate. I’m thinking this flash is what cause the bowing as the flash prevents any movement in a form of clamping the sides while cooling.

@Gallon Wait, in the beginning you was talking about the shredder pro and today about the basic shredder. Who said you can shred it with the small one?

4:55 PM

https://www.instagram.com/p/CNmIK9CL9nD/?igshid=4b2xuaiq9z1w

Crap,i forgot i was talking about pro shredder and in the end ordered regular. I ordered some strengthen version. https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-v3.1-build-with-5mm-sieve./ Hope it will do well with pet bottles

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: Shredder V3.1 build with 5...

5:06 PM

And seller told me it "does well with coca cola bottles"

@Gallon Jup, has also a bigger shaft. Good luck! Make sure that the sieve is in correct position&tightened and can not be catched by the knives

blk.wth

Shredder or extruder?

extruder, so pls!

@Lups Small extruder: (edited)

1

9:06 PM

Small extruder: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw Big extruder: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro Just recommendations, depends on what you need... (edited)

1

One of my pid controllers doesn’t hold at set temp. The self setting is on. Any ideas?

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

These are thicker and stronger than the HDPE ones. Someone shredded this with the basic shredder??

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto yep we tried, constantly had blockages so we don't really do bottles anymore... but somewhat fortunate that there is a recycling market for our #1 & #2 bottles in NZ. I still sometimes get #5 juice bottles and then if I have time will cut the tops in 1/2 with tin snips.

Gallon

Crap,i hope ot shredds them,i asked few times on discord and everyone said basic shredder can shred those and i ordered one for almost 400E

@Gallon tin snips, hack through the neck so it is in 2 pieces, then the shredder doesn't seem to mind

Hm,i guess i will see what happens once it arrives and i cconnect it to engine. Im guessing more nM than recommend should do the trick

H1F1

brikawood system

Looks nice, but what problem does this solve? In the US, people build houses by framing and then putting sheets against it. In material amounts of wood, abouth the same amount is needed as with the bricks, but the complexity of the dove-tails means nailing is faster/cheaper and more flexible, aswell as any humidity effects will make your bricks warp, which bigger sheets put in place on-site will have less issues with.

Hey all! Trying to help a local workshop to get started. They bought this shredder from another workshop that closed and the coupler seems to be an issue. Do you know what coupler specs I should try and source? Do you have links by any chance? In the starter kit bill of materials is not specifying that coupler is actually part of the shredder so maybe it's an older model?

@davidyaha The shredder in the starter kit has a self made coupling, (in the Pro shredder you will find a purchase part coupling). Also for the small shredder the most people in the community use a ready to use coupling and i would also recommend. You will find a lot in the internet. Informations you will need to find the right coupling for your shredder: -Max. torque of the gear motor -Shaft diameter of the gear motor -Shaft diameter of the shredder, 20mm i think? -Keyways on both shafts?

Thanks for the reply! I'll get the dimensions and see if I can find it myself. Good international supplyers for couplings? Is Amazon the answer here?

These are the companies/sites I searched for when I was building my shredder and I decided for Mädler:

11:14 AM

@davidyaha https://www.maedler.de/product/1643/kupplungen-rutschkupplungen-sicherheits-kupplungen-verbindungswellen

@itsgeorge if you bought a terminal kit it will come with bridge connectors. These connectors you can cut to the number of bridges you want, push into the top to bridge adjacent terminals, just make sure you push them in really well. If yiu are using this type of Din Rail connector assure that it is adequate for the wire Size and the Volt and Amp rating. generally the small terminals in your picture are not good for motor primary feed wires. You can connect directly to your VFD or use a din rail mounted fusable connector strip, one for each phase, assure it is a certified and tested connector adequate for your area.

@people using the sheetpress/making sheets: Costs less than $10 to make. Really amazing for transporting sheets. Curious to hear what you all think?

3:50 PM

I'm interested in building a shredder and extruder, and working with a local machine shop for the parts. However, I can't find the plans on the Precious Plastics website. Are they still there?

Hello Everyone, I recently purchased this shredder box from Reading Shredding on the Bazaar https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/v3.1-10mm-front-and-rear-plate-kit./ . I’m excited to get to work shredding but I’m a bit unsure about the best way to proceed with the motor. I am in the US and only have access to 110V. I am mostly looking to shred PP and HDPE bottles but also failed attempts and sprue castoffs from my table top injection machine. I’ve started looking into a few different directions for the motors. The first option I’ve considered is the hoist motor. I watched this youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-k8kJ8yig&t=319s and also saw Patrick Bonsen using one on his set up https://davehakkens.nl/community/members/patrick-bonsen/ . It also also seems like the motor being sold with some of the kits on the Bazaar. I realize these are not made for continuous duty but I’m not too put off by having to grind in short bursts since I’m working on a small scale here. I like that the controls and appropriate gearing come with it and that it runs on 110v. I found 2 possible options a 1300watt and a 1450watt https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088JPLWRP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1QKAFQ8XGOL7X&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1129TN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TMY1V1D4JYJ4&psc=1 Is anyone on here using this set up?

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: Shredder - 10mm plates, 5m...

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2:17 AM

Option 2 is more of a question. I’m finding a ton of 3 phase Sew-Eurodrive motors on ebay (some even have appropriate gearboxes) but they are all 230/460V. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gearmotor-Sew-Eurodrive-R37DRE90M4-TH-1-5Hp-230-460V/224149519850 Is there any way to make these work on a 110V set up? Can a step up transformer or a Variable Frequency Drive be used? If so is there significant power loss or would the amps the motors pull go through the roof? Option 3 is going with a single phase motor rated for 110v. I’ve found these options https://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Electric-Motors-%288%29-Leeson-112309.00-Electric-Motors-Nevada/3502163/NSN/6105-01-293-0317 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leeson-Electric-Motor-110495-00-1-5-HP-1725-Rpm-1-PH-115-208-230-V-56C-Frame/254742084089 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Motor-NEMA-Farm-Duty-2-HP-1725RPM-145T-1PH-7-8-Shaft-TEFC-115-230V/313175130489 The second link above seems to be the one I’ve seen US builders on the Bazaar use. I realize these all would need a gear box. From what I’ve seen a 30:1. Is there a specific type of gear box I’d be looking for? Are all of these motor options even compatible with a gearbox? Are there any other issues with the motors above? How difficult is setting up the control box? I apologize for the wall of text. At this point I’m a bit overwhelmed. I don’t have a lot of money to spend at this moment but can hold off and save a bit if need be. Thank you!

Gearmotor Sew Eurodrive R37DRE90M4/TH 1.5Hp 230/460V | eBay

Cable Entry: X. Gear S.F.: 2.9. Out Torque (lb-In): 504. Conduit Box Loc: 180.

(8) Leeson 112309.00 Electric Motors

Leeson Electric Motor 110495.00 1.5 HP 1725 Rpm 1-PH 115/208-230 V ...

We are an authorized Leeson distributor. Spec's from Leeson;. Current: 17.2/8.8-8.6 A Speed: 1725 rpm. Output HP: 1.50 Hp Output KW: 1.1 kW. Service Factor: 1.15 Phase: 1. Efficiency: 79 % Power Factor: 73.

Electric Motor,NEMA Farm Duty, 2 HP 1725RPM 145T 1PH, 7/8" Shaft, T...

3/4HP 1725RPM Motor 1HP 1725RPM Motor 1.5HP 3450RPM Motor 2HP 1725RPM Motor 1~20HP 1725~3450 Motor. 【HIGH SPEED 1725PM】- The farm duty motor designed with rated speed: 1800RPM to be with high working efficiency.

Really basic question but had to ask- what is the noise level on a shredder ? Can you hear it outside of a closed room? Lots of videos on the shredder but couldn’t find something that quite addressed this question. My shop I’m renting space at wanted to know

SecondActPlasticLA

Really basic question but had to ask- what is the noise level on a shredder ? Can you hear it outside of a closed room? Lots of videos on the shredder but couldn’t find something that quite addressed this question. My shop I’m renting space at wanted to know

I can hear my shredder the next door, but not the door after that

2

cory.johnson

I'm interested in building a shredder and extruder, and working with a local machine shop for the parts. However, I can't find the plans on the Precious Plastics website. Are they still there?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

@GreasyCreeps Hello, if you opt for option 1 (hoist-motor) be sure to put some fans around to cool the motor down. Iirc @Butte (PP Philippines) uses these. Option 2: Yes, a VFD single phase input / three phase output would work but you still would have 3x 110V which is not ideal to power a 220V motor , try to find a threephase 110V motor. Option 3 This is the motor i use in my shredder: https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-CJ603E-1-7-Inch-Diameter/dp/B077YDZ725 Single phase with integrated gearbox. (42rpm). Now, the difference is that the motor in the link has (15 x 110

1650Watts whereever mine is rated 2800 Watts, i am in France with 230V. However, i am very happy with my motor especially because i got it for 20 Euros second hand. The nice thing is that (at least in my case) 3 of the four motorattachements are perfectly aligned to use with the PP Shredder.

@sonik thank you so much! This is all super helpful information. How long do you run your shredder for per session and how long have you had the set up? Are there any downsides you’ve experienced with the mulching motor? Do you think the 1650 watt machine in your link would be strong enough to use? Thank you again, While researching I saw an older PP Forum thread about someone experimenting with your motor.

@GreasyCreeps I can't tell you if the motor is strong enough, because you miss half of the volts

. I don't know neither if it's the same motor and if it's just running on half voltage or if its another motor. But it is rated to shred 1,7" (43mm) diameter and mine shreds up to 45mm. So this could be an indicator. I am using my shredder since 2 years, but i don't shred every day. There is no problem to shred for 2 - 3 hours continuous. But i pimped my shredder with an arduino. I have an auto-reverse function when rpm's are getting to low (means jamming soon) and i also have a "ping-pong-mode", which is i can tell my shredder to go forwards for xx seconds and then go back for xx seconds. This superhandy to prevent the cumulation of materiel on the left side when it's running only forward.

sonik

@GreasyCreeps I can't tell you if the motor is strong enough, because you miss half of the volts

. I don't know neither if it's the same motor and if it's just running on half voltage or if its another motor. But it is rated to shred 1,7" (43mm) diameter and mine shreds up to 45mm. So this could be an indicator. I am using my shredder since 2 years, but i don't shred every day. There is no problem to shred for 2 - 3 hours continuous. But i pimped my shredder with an arduino. I have an auto-reverse function when rpm's are getting to low (means jamming soon) and i also have a "ping-pong-mode", which is i can tell my shredder to go forwards for xx seconds and then go back for xx seconds. This superhandy to prevent the cumulation of materiel on the left side when it's running only forward.

Very cool!

I also found this VEVOR motor for my shredder that seems like a promising option. I believe this is the company that makes some of the hoist motors I've seen people use. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-HP-Single-Phase-Farm-Duty-Electric-Motor-56C-Frame-1750-RPM-TEFC/313139263177 Am I correct to think a 30:1 rated for 1.5 HP Gear reducer is what I would need for this? Does anyone have recommendations for Gear reducers? Other than shaft diameter is the fitment of he gear reducers pretty universal? I'm also curious if this LEESON motor would work and if you could even use a gear reducer on it with that long shaft. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leeson-1-5-HP-Electric-Motor-1-PH-115-V-1725-1425-RPM-56Y-Frame-C6K17DK4A-CAT-NO/313384095141?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Any information helps, Thank you.

1.5 HP Single Phase Farm Duty Electric Motor 56C Frame 1750 RPM TEF...

The electric motor 56C runs at 1.5 HP, and the maximum speed is 1725 RPM, Synchronous speed: 1800 RPM, high hardness shaft is more durable. Enclosure Type TEFC TEFC TEFC TEFC/ODP. A 115/230 volt electric motor that turns at 1800 RPM.

Leeson 1.5 HP Electric Motor 1 PH 115 V 1725/1425 RPM 56Y Frame C6K...

Model: C6K17DK4A. Manufacturer: Leeson. RPM: 1725/1425. Frequency: 60/50. CAT NO 112309.00.

One thing to look at is the diameter of the axe. The first one has a 16mm axe, and the shredders axe is 20mm if i remember right. And there were a few reports of broken axes on the shredder. The second one is 22mm, already better. The shredder needs at least 300 nm on torque, PP recommends ~70 rpm. According to this site: http://wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp the motor has 152nm of torque, so you need to get down to 35 rpm to get minimum of torque. The mulch motor has a torque of 375@42rpm IF it turns at 42rpm which we don't know. So.....

2:00 PM

And you still need the gearbox to get down to your needed rpm for the first two motors. (edited)

sonik

One thing to look at is the diameter of the axe. The first one has a 16mm axe, and the shredders axe is 20mm if i remember right. And there were a few reports of broken axes on the shredder. The second one is 22mm, already better. The shredder needs at least 300 nm on torque, PP recommends ~70 rpm. According to this site: http://wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp the motor has 152nm of torque, so you need to get down to 35 rpm to get minimum of torque. The mulch motor has a torque of 375@42rpm IF it turns at 42rpm which we don't know. So.....

Thank you, so I’d be looking for a 50:1 gear reducer for these to get it down to 35rpm. I wonder if this is incredibly slow for a shredder if PP recommends 70rpm. Does the input on the gear reducer need to be rated 1.5HP?

Well, mine is 42rpm, so not that much faster, but i traded convenience and price against efficiency. And yes, the gearbox will need at least the same torque than your motor. The weakest link will brake first

8:30 PM

You can have a look at my shredder here: at the end you see what 42rpm looks like.

8:30 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJbsLgSkwG4&ab_channel=KlausLoehmann

Klaus Loehmann

Shredder

8:31 PM

Sorry, it's in french

sonik

Well, mine is 42rpm, so not that much faster, but i traded convenience and price against efficiency. And yes, the gearbox will need at least the same torque than your motor. The weakest link will brake first

Thank you for all the help. I’ll have to weigh my options between the hoist motor and the one that requires the gear reducer. I’m having a hard time finding gear reducers rated for 1.5HP that aren’t more expensive than the motor itself. Your machine looks great! Fantastic job and that speed looks plenty fast.

I had a hard time also before choosing this motor and regarding the price you have also to consider that if you buy the garden shredder, it comes with the buttons, the cabling, the capacitor, overload or and overheat-protection .....

sonik

I had a hard time also before choosing this motor and regarding the price you have also to consider that if you buy the garden shredder, it comes with the buttons, the cabling, the capacitor, overload or and overheat-protection .....

I’ll look around and see if I can find one that’s close to what you’re using. The 110v here is making things challenging

Yes, in this case 110V is a bit shitty. I ask myself if a step-up transformer 110-220 could do the job?

Gallon

Crap,i hope ot shredds them,i asked few times on discord and everyone said basic shredder can shred those and i ordered one for almost 400E

We ha

What

Hi, could this motor work as a budget alternative for the shredder? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002441739744.html

106.16US $ 45% OFF|NEW 1450W 800kg Electric Hoist Winch Remote Cont...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

Perhaps,but those are not made to be running for long periods.

Allright, so it would need a cooling fan or something then?

12:06 PM

Any tips on a better cheap alternative?

@doubletrouble As i said just a bit above, these motors would need cooling. If you live in a 220Volt country, the motor of the silent garden shredder is a perfect cheap solution. https://www.tooled-up.com/ozito-2600w-electric-silent-shredder/prod/519137/

Ozito 2600W Electric Silent Shredder | Garden Shredders

Buy Ozito 2600W Electric Silent Shredder and other Ozito Garden Shredders at Tooled-Up.com. Fast Delivery.

1:20 PM

These garden shredders are difficult to find in a 110V version.

sonik

@doubletrouble As i said just a bit above, these motors would need cooling. If you live in a 220Volt country, the motor of the silent garden shredder is a perfect cheap solution. https://www.tooled-up.com/ozito-2600w-electric-silent-shredder/prod/519137/

Thanks! I live in Sweden and we have 220v here so that would work, I'd rather order within EU because of customs. I found this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leaf-Branch-Shredder-Garden-Tool-Wood-Chipper-Electric-Shredder-Multifunctional/393166718646 which is 2400w and 4500rpm (which sounds like a lot?!) I guess I'd need a gearbox for that one right? This stuff is complicated

Leaf Branch Shredder Garden Tool Wood Chipper Electric Shredder Mul...

Garden shredder. 1x Garden shredder. -Double blades, enhanced rotary cutter head, excellent crushing effect, can complete the processing of garden dry garbage quickly and well, and the green garbage, small branches, leaves, etc.

1:43 PM

The one you linked didn't specify RPM that I could see, but do you think it would work ?

1:45 PM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parkside-Messerhacksler-PMH-2400-A1-Garden-Chopper-2400W-Garden-Shredder/224231109603 this one's at 3900rpm. I saw you wrote above that ~70rpm would be a good value. Then I'd have to gear it down?

Parkside Messerhäcksler PMH 2400 A1 Garden Chopper 2400W - Garden S...

material Tubes: Q235 steel Knife: SK5 steel Die-cast aluminum Dimensions Weight Tool: approx. 59 g HINTS: None direct & fast HEADNMORE® Convince you oneself! PAYMENT: Purchase on invoice (over Paypal) PayPal SHIPPING: VAT VAT VAT VAT HEADNMORE® Just give us a try PERFORMANCE PROMISE Shipping faster direct & fast DOGENDOR.

Hey everyone, Im trying to build the injection molding machine v1 from the basic workspace guide, I'm having trouble finding a 32mm x 3mm thick round pipe for the barrel, and the only suitable replacement i can find is a 32x1.5mm thick pipe in my location. The diameter of the plunger I'll have to use therefore increases from 26mm to 29mm, and im wondering whether the reduction in pressure is significant (around 45 bars to 36 bars)

@Chickenandcocaine The thin wall of the barrel, will cause problems with spreading the heat and holding temperature. Not a huge problem but thought I would just let you know. If you cant get enough pressure, you can always increase the length of the lever.

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

@Chickenandcocaine The thin wall of the barrel, will cause problems with spreading the heat and holding temperature. Not a huge problem but thought I would just let you know. If you cant get enough pressure, you can always increase the length of the lever.

Thanks thats quite helpful, i had not considered that

Anyone know a good source for shredder sieves? If there's something you can take apart from amazon or similiar (EU) (edited)

doubletrouble

Anyone know a good source for shredder sieves? If there's something you can take apart from amazon or similiar (EU) (edited)

Maybe look around in a scrap yard? Not sure how easy it would be to find but it would be reusing and cheaper.

True! I do have one place I can look at. Good thinking

@doubletrouble Glad to help!! Good luck with the shredder!!!

1

@Gallon Shredding PET with the V4-shredder, because you asked once for that: https://www.instagram.com/p/CN3rYa1JaFH/?igshid=gmq4ul74zf0i

sonik

Yes, in this case 110V is a bit shitty. I ask myself if a step-up transformer 110-220 could do the job?

I think I've narrowed my shredder motor choice down to either the Sun Joe Mulcher https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YDZ725/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1or or one of these Hoists (All are able to run on 110v and come with appropriate gearing/controls) . The most powerful hoist I found is 2100w 2.81HP https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DM7ZKB7/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A156P5EZWSIFIA. I also found a a 1450w (1.95 hp) Hoist that has a Kill switch on the control https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1129TN/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2TMY1V1D4JYJ4. I saw a shredder in the Bazaar that uses a hoist with a similar motor https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-fully-built/shredder-motor-coupling/ It runs on only 1300w and seems to work well enough (with breaks since it's only rated for working 10 min at a time. The Sun Joe Mulcher is 1650W ( 2.21HP) which is more powerful than the hoist motor used on the Bazaar shredder above and the motor is rated to work longer durations. It's also the cheapest option. Do you have an opinion on the best choice out of these options? I also checked out the link you shared for the Ozito mulcher you are using. The specs say that machine has a Mulching Ratio of 10:1 The 110v Sun Joe is a 21:1 ratio. I wonder if this means it'll run much slower. (edited)

Amazon.com : Sun Joe CJ603E 15-Amp 1.7-Inch Cutting Diameter Electr...

Amazon.com : Sun Joe CJ603E 15-Amp 1.7-Inch Cutting Diameter Electric Silent Wood Chipper/Shredder, green : Garden & Outdoor

shredder and motor and coupling

@GreasyCreeps I went with the hoist motor. Can't really tell you any good arguments why... But it was cheaper, I saw someone on the bazaar selling a kit with it and I've watched a video of teaching tech using one. The garden shredder I heard about first time the other day and couldn't really find any answers to some questions I had. (edited)

doubletrouble

@GreasyCreeps I went with the hoist motor. Can't really tell you any good arguments why... But it was cheaper, I saw someone on the bazaar selling a kit with it and I've watched a video of teaching tech using one. The garden shredder I heard about first time the other day and couldn't really find any answers to some questions I had. (edited)

what size hoist did you end up getting?

The RPM on the hoist motor seemed a lot more appropriate as well, but I really have no idea bout that

8:26 AM

https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/598887270636060694/833257112540676106 this one

8:27 AM

1450w 400-800kg

doubletrouble

1450w 400-800kg

It seems like people have made the Hoist motors work. I heard fans help keep the motor cool to help with the short work times. Have you thought about what coupler you'll use?

Exactly, I hope this'll work out! Haven't thought about that at all, was thinking of making something with a pipe and some bolts perhaps. Unless there's a better way

8:36 AM

Something like this is what I'm thinking https://youtu.be/NL-k8kJ8yig?t=638

Teaching Tech

Recycling waste 3D prints with a Precious Plastics shredder

doubletrouble

Something like this is what I'm thinking https://youtu.be/NL-k8kJ8yig?t=638

So I did some more digging regarding the rpms on the mulchers . It looks like there are 2 different styles of motor in them. Mulchers like the Sun Joe CJ603E use a geared down motor. cj603 has a No Load Speed of 60 rpm. The Machine @sonik is using is around 40rpm I believe. The cheaper smaller mulchers use a motor with no gears that takes the same wattage and spins fast (1400rpm). I'll have to double check the recommended torque value for the shredder and see if 2.2HP 60rpm will work, if not I'll do the hoist. (edited)

Ah allright, I could only find those with 1400+ rpm. That was what made me reluctant towards them

doubletrouble

Ah allright, I could only find those with 1400+ rpm. That was what made me reluctant towards them

Totally, I saw those too. I don't think they would work unless you went through a gear reduction.

Many product ads doesn't specify these things which makes it a bit harder to find the correct one. It's so weird that it's more expensive to buy a separate motor than a complete mulcher/hoist

doubletrouble

Many product ads doesn't specify these things which makes it a bit harder to find the correct one. It's so weird that it's more expensive to buy a separate motor than a complete mulcher/hoist

I can find a bunch of used geared motors on Ebay here but most are 230V at least and I only have 110v 60hz in the garage. I found 110V motors I could use new but had a hard time finding gear reducers rated for 1.5 HP input.

Really, I would need a 230v one. so that would've been perfect. Couldn't find any close by though

If I did the equation right it looks like the Sun Joe CJ603E Mulcher motor has 266.9606Nm Torque rating. This falls short of the nominal 300NM recommended by PP. Does anyone know if this is close enough to work?

@GreasyCreeps How do you calculate the torque? which values are needed? would like to know if the winch I ordered will perform

doubletrouble

@GreasyCreeps How do you calculate the torque? which values are needed? would like to know if the winch I ordered will perform

I found a calculator online. You just need the Horsepower (I used another online converter to get this from the wattage) and the RPM. https://spicerparts.com/calculators/horsepower-torque-calculator This site gives you a ft.lbs rating I converted on yet another online calculator. The Big 2100watt Hoist I'm looking at is at 393.1872Nm torque assuming the RPMs are similar to the hoist motor in the bazaar.

Spicer Horsepower and Torque Calculator

The Spicer Horsepower and Torque Calculator will quickly calculate approximate horsepower or torque, depending on your selections.

Sweet, thanks!

doubletrouble

Sweet, thanks!

are you basing the rpms off the 51rpm one in the Bazar ?

doubletrouble

Sweet, thanks!

I've been scanning through this https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculation-and-formula-of-horse-power-of-shredder/ and the Motor database discussion here. https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculation-and-formula-of-horse-power-of-shredder/ It seems like many people on these are running 250-270nm torque. I think that's right around where the hoist you ordered is.

Pujiwara

Calculation and formula of horse power of shredder - Dave Hakkens

I would ask about the calculation and formula of horse power of shredder machine, does anyone know the formula of it? Please help me, thank you. - Dave Hakkens

1

Also have a look here: https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/ https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/will-it-shred/

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Also have a look here: https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/ https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/will-it-shred/

awesome! thank you

@doubletrouble None of the links would work! You need the "silent" shredder, it's the one with the typical faceplate, like this:

@sonik Aah I see. I've already ordered the hoist. I hope it'll work. Can't find any RPM specifications anywhere other than it moves the wire 10m/min

@GreasyCreeps Concerning rpm's we have to note the frequency of your AC, 60 hz in US will make the same motor turning faster than 50hz. Maybe because of that the Sun Joe mulcher turns faster as it's supposed for the US market?

Hi signing in from Hong Kong here

2:10 PM

Can anyone point me to the bill of materials for the pro shredder?

Bas

Hi signing in from Hong Kong here

From here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Shredder_BOM.xlsx

29.27 KB

Thanks! Will check it out

hello everyone! someone who can help me with a contact that sells plastic sheet press in florida please!!

Hello everyone

, I hope you are well and that your different projects are progressing well. I am asking for your help because I am working for Médecins Sans Frontières on a project to recycle plastic waste from 3D printing. We are trying to create a system to recycle PLA from prototype prostheses designed for the project. We are trying to collect as much feedback as possible to find the most suitable system for our needs. I am coming to you to collect your different experiences and to ask you 2/3 questions. The construction of the different machines (stresser, extruder, injection machine...) requires a lot of knowledge and skills to build the machines? I watched the different videos proposed and it looks feasible but did you have any particular difficulties to achieve this? Do you have an estimate of the time needed to create the machines? As a last question I wanted to know if the use of recycled filament led you to modify the 3D printing parameters of the printer? Thank you in advance and if you have any other advice I'm interested! Good day to all!

what's the duty cycle on some of these budget motors y'all are using for shredding?

5:46 PM

or does it not matter because the load being applied to shred plastic isn't much less than the load of hoisting at max gross on some of these

iamtheworstdev

or does it not matter because the load being applied to shred plastic isn't much less than the load of hoisting at max gross on some of these

The hoist motors are are only rated for 10-15 mins work at a time. Definitely the downside with this option but people seem to make it work for them. If you are in a country that uses 220v there is the mulcher motor option that @sonik used.

8:56 PM

I decided to go with this hoist motor https://www.vevor.com/products/2200-lb-electric-wire-hoist-winch-hoist-crane-lift-transmission-pa1000-110v?_pos=1&_sid=af7f41406&_ss=r It claims 1800 watts and assuming the rpms are similar to the ones being sold in the Bazar (51rpm) It got a "Superior" rating when I plugged the information into "Will It Shred" https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/?jsonInput=%7B%22rpm%22%3A%2251%22%2C%22kilowatts%22%3A1.8%2C%22gearRatio%22%3A%221%22%7D I was very close to getting the Sun Joe Mulcher but at 1650 Watts and 60rpm it only recieved a GOOD mark on the calculator https://will-it-shred.netlify.app/?jsonInput=%7B%22rpm%22%3A%2260%22%2C%22kilowatts%22%3A1.65%2C%22gearRatio%22%3A%221%22%7D I would have liked to have given this motor a shot since it's rated for continuous duty but I don't want it to jam trying to grind up thicker injection molding waste. I also decided against the most powerful 2100watt hoist option I had because I was worried it would be an issue with a 20amp Breaker/outlet. Hoping this was the right decision. (edited)

2200 Lb Electric Wire Hoist Winch Hoist Crane Lift Transmission Pa1...

Features & Details [2200LBS LOAD CAPACITY] - The garage hoist easily lifts small engines, transmissions, large shop tools, or building supplies. It supports two lifting modes. Single line capacity: 500 kg/1100 lbs, 10 m/min(32.8 ft/min). Double line capacity: 1000 kg/2200 lbs, 5 m/min(16.4 ft/min). [HIGH-QUALITY MA

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

@Gallon Shredding PET with the V4-shredder, because you asked once for that: https://www.instagram.com/p/CN3rYa1JaFH/?igshid=gmq4ul74zf0i

Thank you

is there (opensource/diy/homemade) machine for extruding plastic profiles?

10:41 AM

im looking at extruding t-slot/v-slot profiles out of various plsatics

quick question, is the git hub active? i made some dimensioned drawing for the plastic shreader and i wanted to share them (edited)

saturn-lab

a couple of things I noticed with the sheetpress electronic 1. might be good - even though for no reason to put a powerswitch per press plate in place - steaks :-) 2. the 'recommended' SSR - 40A relay makes actually no sense since it's anyway just used to switch the high power relay, with that users can use the more recommended Inkbirds kits which have some interesting parameters as well. 3. the high power relays are magnetic based, with a lifetime of 1 mio switches according to specs, possibly good idea to revise this decision since the relay alone is 120E 4. there is enough space to install the fan electronics 5. when selling it as kit, put plugs in place instead 6. the BOM should incl. a good distribution terminal, 4 channels 7. cartridge heater wires should be easily accessible for easy testing (maintenance), you will need anyway extra 2 pole ceramic blocks (also missing in the BOM). ideally the cabinet provides the testing circuit already as well. However, we're wondering how we could make this accessible to 220V users by creating a serial buffer and queue PID to Relay signals in a timed circular buffer (which has a time buffer length limit). You can do this with a better Arduino (Controllino) or if you have the nuts, using a shift register / timer cluster fuck. Any ideas how to build such 'serialisation'? According to the numbers, each press plate could be divided into 4 zones, each zone is heat up delayed, never all at once. With that you could also avoid the magnetic relays all together - since the SSR are better suited for higher switch rates. stay awesome, (edited)

Hi @saturn-lab I'm struggling to figure out the wiring, any chance you could please share a higher resolution picture of your setting. Many Thanks in advance

Hi! Is it possible to make goods on the extruder which are recommended to make by injection?

2:10 PM

Or it will be too complicated?

Tihonn

Hi! Is it possible to make goods on the extruder which are recommended to make by injection?

probably,but unless your using an automated system for open and closing the mold halves then your better off using the normal injection machine

2:15 PM

because im guessing you want to use the welded/cast molds which are not compatible in their current form for being opened and closed rapidly which kinda defeats the purpose of you using an extruder

2:17 PM

so the best thing would be to make something similar to the the injection machine but different that uses pressure to attach onto the mold instead of threads,this should allow you to rapidly[in comparison] open and close the mold thus letting you make parts faster

Tihonn

Or it will be too complicated?

as shown above unless you have backround knowledge of injection molding systems it would be better for you to use a simple(manual) lever type injection machine

2:21 PM

something like this

So as i understand i will always need to stop and start the exruder after each item? (edited)

that is on you i guess

Tihonn

So as i understand i will always need to stop and start the exruder after each item? (edited)

yes but not the whole system just the motor and heaters

2:28 PM

ive seen some people using a metal valve which theyve threaded directly onto the extruder nozzle to control the plastic flow but the problem with using a valve is aside from the plastic hardening in the valve its only going to work temporirly or else it will damage the motor and machine due to backpressure and excess load

2:29 PM

so for example if you have multiple molds and are working contionusly then it would be faster to just keep the extuder on and just recycle the plastic which odesnt make it into the mold

2:30 PM

kinda like how you clean the nozzle on a glue gun when youre using it

Thanks a lot for your answer!

but all of this depends on what your using this machine for,if youre using it for diy or jast playing around the injection will be better because you can bet higher pressures and lower cost on the machine but if you need it for buissness or youre trying to make money out of it id suggest you go for a different design

3:02 PM

also depends heavily on what parts you intend to make with it

3:04 PM

↑ this is the most important thing

3:04 PM

what parts do you intend to make with the machine?anything specific?

3:05 PM

@Tihonn

The main products are beams, also i will work with sheetpress

3:12 PM

but it is interesting for me to try to do some small things

3:13 PM

like pots and etc.

3:13 PM

so thats why im interested in if it possible to do it with the extruder:)

yes,then the extruder is a good option for you

Tihonn

The main products are beams, also i will work with sheetpress

look at precious plastic philipines youtube videos,theve got some good videos on cheaper sheet presses and stuff

4:06 PM

but if you ever want to go into plastic molding as a buissness then you need a injection molding machine,but thnakfully theres a few opensource ones which are quite good

Would anyone or someone share with me a picture of their sheetpress electronic setting. I'm struggling to understand the wiring between contactors and the rest. I'm rubish with these stuff. Thank you (edited)

sponsoons

but if you ever want to go into plastic molding as a buissness then you need a injection molding machine,but thnakfully theres a few opensource ones which are quite good

thank you!

Tihonn

thank you!

do share some images if you build any machines,id love to see what youve made

1

7:33 PM

I am Bildung Machines and Specials parts, just Message me when i can help.

7:36 PM

7:40 PM

Hi There All. I have a question about extruder Pro. Is it possible to build the extruder pro without the gear reduction? Can I just use a Variable frequency drive to power the motor or will this not have enough torque? Thanks.

I was expecting something more of a traditional shaft output from the hoist motor. How would you connect this to the shredder? Might be a good thing that it's hexagonal as long as I can find a way to attach it? (edited)

9:18 PM

@doubletrouble with this coupling it Works. I have some over. For Hex shaft 3 screws instead of 1.

9:22 PM

This was a Prototype, but Works really well (edited)

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hi There All. I have a question about extruder Pro. Is it possible to build the extruder pro without the gear reduction? Can I just use a Variable frequency drive to power the motor or will this not have enough torque? Thanks.

Hi Geoff. Only thing to consider is torque at low RPM. I've heard AC motors have low initial torque compared to a DC motor which has full torque from 0 RPM. Other thing to consider is the extruder RPM is around 120rpm so you'd have to set the VFD fairly low to get it turn. Considering also the AC motors generally spin at 1400rpm, hence the gearbox to maximise torque at the optimal extruder rpm.

@похищен Aah nice! Good to see, thank you. I guess you can't find pipes that thick anywhere and you drilled out some solid stock yourself? How thick did you make the walls? Also, would you consider selling one of these?

(edited)

hello can you help me how to make blow moulding for bottle of 200 ml

11:59 AM

my email is rammavr@yahoo.com

i can send to you pics of the bottle , how to upload it

@doubletrouble i used 40mm round steel and machined it on lathe. write me a message and we will clear it up with the purchase if you want. unfortunately haven't set up the bazaar yet.

1

Hi guys - Hope all are well, new to both Discord and PP so please excuse if I'm a bit green! - I am building a shredding machine and wondered if anyone knows the recommended RPM of the actual shredder head?

Fraser

Hi guys - Hope all are well, new to both Discord and PP so please excuse if I'm a bit green! - I am building a shredding machine and wondered if anyone knows the recommended RPM of the actual shredder head?

Hi @Fraser, are you building the small on (not the pro version)? For the small one below 70r/min. (edited)

6:44 AM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder (edited)

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder (edited)

Ahha thanks so much Thomas, yes the small one...should have just opened my eyes and looked a bit deeper eh!

Brilliant thanks again

doubletrouble

I was expecting something more of a traditional shaft output from the hoist motor. How would you connect this to the shredder? Might be a good thing that it's hexagonal as long as I can find a way to attach it? (edited)

you disassemble the gearbox, remove the snap ring. then you can punch out the shaft. You then send the shafting to be cut on the lathe with a key. We do 1 inch, however 25mm will work. depends on your setup. Then reassemble and you have a proper gear motor with a proper shaft.

1

8:39 AM

Also We found HUGE error in the Plastic sheetpress pro. Data sheet claims a max of 6400 watts. (edited)

8:39 AM

8:40 AM

16amp x 400v is 6400 watts.

8:40 AM

Yet the BOM spreadsheet calls for 49 pieces of 220v cartridge heater at 300 watts each!

8:43 AM

Now assuming one runs that 220v cartridge heater at double the voltage then the wattage now comes to 29.4 KW or two series and 24 parallel would still run you 14.4kw.

8:45 AM

Also the materials cost on that is totally wrong. 2k euro, yet the heaters and electric switches alone is well over 1000 euro. toss in those specialty long throw jacks, big sheets of machined aluminum and costing is spiraling out of control.

8:46 AM

8:48 AM

also some errors in the brick mold calculations. the #3 brick is 1700 grams not 1500. guide needs updating

I'd like to make my shredder as compact as possible, so I can put it away in storage when not in use. Are there anyone who made a version with f.e. foldable legs on the frame? Would be interesting to see if there are any pics or even plans before drawing on it (edited)

Hello everyone! My buddies and I are currently building the precious plastic compression machine 2.1 using the precious plastic blueprints and we ran into an unexpected issue. This is what the end result looks like:

11:35 AM

Basically it wobbles a lot and we don’t know whether that’s something that’s supposed to be happening or whether it’s some sort of error in the construction

11:36 AM

Does anyone have one of these 2.1 compression machines? Do you guys know why this might be happening?

Shoti

Hello everyone! My buddies and I are currently building the precious plastic compression machine 2.1 using the precious plastic blueprints and we ran into an unexpected issue. This is what the end result looks like:

Guess the inaccuracy is due to the jack? How does it work when you press against another plate?

One question, i have seen that for shredder regular its advised to have 70rpm. Is it a problem if i have like 20 or 30 rpm

1:35 PM

If im not mistaken it should still be able to crush plastic if it has torque but lacks speed. I have this old reductor that is super slow so im wondering if i can use that

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Guess the inaccuracy is due to the jack? How does it work when you press against another plate?

We haven’t tested it in action yet, because we don’t know whether this wobbling issue needs to be fixed first or whether this is normal. Do you know if this is supposed to be happening or not?

@Gallon I have 35rpm and 734Nm, it think 30rpm and more than 300Nm shoulf be ok. In this post are Videos in Realtime: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFbi17IqFEO/ The video here is a bit faster ;): https://youtu.be/dloeR5xXUMs (edited)

Johannplasto

Production of a white table lamp from plastic waste

️

Shoti

We haven’t tested it in action yet, because we don’t know whether this wobbling issue needs to be fixed first or whether this is normal. Do you know if this is supposed to be happening or not?

No, i don´t know if this brings more problems later. I dont use the compression/or sheetpress. But it´s better you have a wobbling plate that will align when you press to a solid plate than a solid plate that will not align... (edited)

Butte (PP Philippines)

Also We found HUGE error in the Plastic sheetpress pro. Data sheet claims a max of 6400 watts. (edited)

Hello @Butte (PP Philippines), I don't get this one, 400V 16A is on the extruder pro datasheet, which is right. We are also only at 5kW, 16A is only relative to the next standard plug you should use (at least here in Europe, triphasic plugs are rated for 16A then 32A, then 64A)

Butte (PP Philippines)

Now assuming one runs that 220v cartridge heater at double the voltage then the wattage now comes to 29.4 KW or two series and 24 parallel would still run you 14.4kw.

I confirm you the sheet-press is running on a 32A plug, and is consuming around 15kW maximum. We made some test, these kW are reached during the heat-up, we are around 9kW during the rest of the day.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Also the materials cost on that is totally wrong. 2k euro, yet the heaters and electric switches alone is well over 1000 euro. toss in those specialty long throw jacks, big sheets of machined aluminum and costing is spiraling out of control.

The material cost indicated here is exactly what we spend in material, I could even get you the invoices. But we are always clear on that : this a Netherland built reference, where steel is really easy to get and cheap even in small quantities. Also we never include the labour or the consumable, which differs a lot depending where you are and your means of manufacturing. This is to be considered as the lowest to be spend to make it.

1:55 PM

Also look at this design if you want to built a sheet-press, this have been optimized, particularly on the electronic side : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Butte (PP Philippines)

also some errors in the brick mold calculations. the #3 brick is 1700 grams not 1500. guide needs updating

I will check this one, that seams possible.

1:58 PM

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

No, i don´t know if this brings more problems later. I dont use the compression/or sheetpress. But it´s better you have a wobbling plate that will align when you press to a solid plate than a solid plate that will not align... (edited)

That’s a good point! But still, I hope someone who uses one of these machines can answer this question for certain

Shoti

Hello everyone! My buddies and I are currently building the precious plastic compression machine 2.1 using the precious plastic blueprints and we ran into an unexpected issue. This is what the end result looks like:

And how does your process work? How does your oven looks like? Do you plan to melt and press in the same time (compression)? https://youtu.be/ogI8kt0w43Y?t=735 Or more than a sheetpress (first melting in an oven ant than just pressing? (more efficient i think) Plastmakers made a nice small sheetpress-oven-combination: https://youtu.be/0os1UJzX3Ns?t=132 (edited)

would using a heat/hot bed meant for 3d printers instead of the cartridge heaters work?

2:43 PM

for making a sheet press?

Shredder Pro - Small modification suggestion: 2 pcs support instead of 4pc and sideways adjustable, you can`t match the hole sieve position exactly without blocking holes....now it is clear. Minor difference, less material backing up and more structural strength. (edited)

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

@Gallon I have 35rpm and 734Nm, it think 30rpm and more than 300Nm shoulf be ok. In this post are Videos in Realtime: https://www.instagram.com/p/CFbi17IqFEO/ The video here is a bit faster ;): https://youtu.be/dloeR5xXUMs (edited)

Great,so it should still do the trick on less than 70 rpm

ahoy fellas, anyone have any advice for finding a used motor that would work for the shredder? (not the pro the basic one) like what kind of devices would it come from? I already saw someone post that you can use one from a hoist but i was like wondering if there are any other devices it can be taken from

opabinia

ahoy fellas, anyone have any advice for finding a used motor that would work for the shredder? (not the pro the basic one) like what kind of devices would it come from? I already saw someone post that you can use one from a hoist but i was like wondering if there are any other devices it can be taken from

washing machines,alternators,fan motors with the right gearing,motrs for stuff like automated gates/shutters etc,motors from most industrial machinery

8:22 PM

thats waht i can think of right now,will let you know if i think of anything else

Cool thanks :)

also the motors and gearing from drills/drivers

I actually have like this motor that i took from an air fryer, i wonder if i could use that

depends on how fast the motor is and if you can find the right gearing

Its pretty fast not sure about the specific rpm but its meant to like spin a fan

do you have a 3d printer?

Yup

you could probably print a gear box of the internet and be done with it

8:28 PM

because if its meant for a fan then with a small step-down gearbox connected to a planetary gearbox you should have enough torque and rpm

Yeah i know very little about machining but i want to lol

8:29 PM

But like the proper workaround with gears can increase and decrease speed and stuff right

opabinia

Yeah i know very little about machining but i want to lol

~~if youre feeling fancy and have the skills you could try 3d printing an extrusion/compression screw and molding casting it in a sturdier material~~

opabinia

But like the proper workaround with gears can increase and decrease speed and stuff right

yes

sponsoons

~~if youre feeling fancy and have the skills you could try 3d printing an extrusion/compression screw and molding casting it in a sturdier material~~

That was exactly my plan

8:31 PM

I'm looking into aluminum recycling too so do you think i could make the prototypes with PLA, make molds and make the final ones aluminum?

if you have a bit of time and your can handle decent prescion then you should easily be able to print and assemble a gear box of youtube

Like is aluminum sturdy enough

opabinia

I'm looking into aluminum recycling too so do you think i could make the prototypes with PLA, make molds and make the final ones aluminum?

yes, for most easily available plastics it should work

Great

ive been looking at printing a hollow shell and filling it with cement or some other high temp material as a low cost way of making extruder screws

Ah thats cool

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2710740

Precious Plastic Extrusion 2.0 Update October 2017 by largeformat3d...

Updated files, CAD files Blueprints Includes -New extrusion screw -DesignSpark Mechanical CAD file solid model

8:36 PM

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793516

Precious Plastic Small-scale extrusion screw for plastics recycling...

Precious Plastic is an awesome open source effort to make small plastic-recycling machines readily available to folks around the world. If you don't know about it, check out PreciousPlastic.com for more info. This extrusion screw is a special type of screw designed specifically for extruding plastic, the expanding inner thread puts pressure on t...

8:36 PM

try printing something like this as a test

Dope

8:37 PM

And thats the part that forces the material down right?

opabinia

And thats the part that forces the material down right?

yes

8:39 PM

the main reason to use it over a simple wood auger is that it builds up pressure in the extruded plastic allowing you to extruder faster and bigger

Cool

8:41 PM

Oh and another thing

8:41 PM

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07D3BMGPP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 is it possible to scrap something like this from something or is it really only readily available for purchasing?

opabinia

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07D3BMGPP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 is it possible to scrap something like this from something or is it really only readily available for purchasing?

you could scrap it from things like old ovens,furnaces,kilns and similar stuff but it would be cheaper to simply buy it as the kind of things you find it in are very costly and seldom scrapped or otherwise disposed in a way youd be able to find/use it

8:45 PM

so its best to just buy a cheap chinese clone

sponsoons

so its best to just buy a cheap chinese clone

Yeah thats what i was just looking into lol

or another thing to look at is getting constant temp heaters which can only maintain one temp but dont require any controllers

I'd rather have control for the sake of various melting points required

ah ok

thank you for all the info!

do share a few pictures once you build the machines

Absolutely

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Small extruder: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw Big extruder: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro Just recommendations, depends on what you need... (edited)

thanks a lot!

sponsoons

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2710740

Someone found my thingiverse page...lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JxRTbVHSJs

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Extrusion Pro

4:34 AM

Extrusion Pro machine build.

4:35 AM

Mods from the original design to include 50x50mm tubing vs orig spec 40x40mm. Simply because that is what we have available.

4:36 AM

Motor is moved to bottom of the frame and changed to a double b type v belt connected to a center shaft and a type chain sprocket combo for the final speed reduction.

4:38 AM

three phase locally is not easily available and requires a long permit process + purchase of a transformer + min monthly charge. Alternately one could use a dynamo or inverter but the cost goes up greatly.

4:38 AM

We also changed the electric control box to this

4:40 AM

After computing labor, powdercoat, materials etc, the prefab box gives us a better product at a better costing

is the pro extrusion capable of extruding pipes/tubes or profiles?

sponsoons

is the pro extrusion capable of extruding pipes/tubes or profiles?

yes, but you need a proper die setup, which so far has not been researched by the community.

9:50 AM

We also are finding some issues with the pro sheet press with the sizes. We are wondering why it is so tall off the ground? Filipinos are short people and the present height makes working very un-ergonomic. We are also finding that using a standard bottle jack is plenty long travel for opening and closing the mold plates.

so aside from the dies,does the machine have adequete pressure to extrude profiles?

as long as your screw will not back out of the tube. You will need a thrust bearing of some sort for really high pressure or some sort of stopper.

Butte (PP Philippines)

We also are finding some issues with the pro sheet press with the sizes. We are wondering why it is so tall off the ground? Filipinos are short people and the present height makes working very un-ergonomic. We are also finding that using a standard bottle jack is plenty long travel for opening and closing the mold plates.

for the presses on the youtube channel do yall use pneumatic or hydraulic jacks/cylinders?

we blew out a brick mold from the pressure of a v3 extrusion machine

Butte (PP Philippines)

as long as your screw will not back out of the tube. You will need a thrust bearing of some sort for really high pressure or some sort of stopper.

ah ok

Butte (PP Philippines)

yes, but you need a proper die setup, which so far has not been researched by the community.

Just worry about how high is the cover, so it is not right up to your head

in our channel Precious Plastic Philippines we have used car scissor jack (breaks easily)

Butte (PP Philippines)

we blew out a brick mold from the pressure of a v3 extrusion machine

so the mold got damaged?or the machine?

3 ton air bag jack.

Butte (PP Philippines)

3 ton air bag jack.

how much does that cost?

5 ton log hydraulic log splitter

9:53 AM

about 350usd for mine

9:53 AM

there are 3 and now 5 ton bag jacks

Butte (PP Philippines)

5 ton log hydraulic log splitter

oh thats a thing i hadnt thought of before,its a very innovative idea

Butte (PP Philippines)

about 350usd for mine

oh ok

you could easily mod the sheet press for 10 tons via 2 pieces 5 ton bag jack

9:54 AM

we also did a log splitter injection molder.

9:55 AM

I mentioned the idea in the old forum maybe yar and half ago, but the Australian guys beat me to building it

9:55 AM

we built 3 of those so far.

9:55 AM

word of caution on the log splitters,

9:56 AM

the motor is not very high quality. it will need a supplemental cooling fan

9:57 AM

we mounted a bathroom exhaust fan on ours which continues the cooling between duty cycles

ah ok

9:57 AM

do you know any cheaper alternatives to using a air bag jack?

for mechanized, that is the cheapest

9:58 AM

hand jack 50usd will get you 20 ton or so

9:59 AM

you could look into air hydraulic also

9:59 AM

its kinda slow.

Butte (PP Philippines)

hand jack 50usd will get you 20 ton or so

how hard would it be to modify one of those to connect to a air compresor?

and depending where you are the rices vary wildly

10:00 AM

what country are you in?

India

likely not too difficult to find in india the air hydraulic jack

10:01 AM

air bag was very expensive shipping from china until recently

10:01 AM

now price local is about same as USA

Butte (PP Philippines)

likely not too difficult to find in india the air hydraulic jack

the main problem actually is finding whats its called here locally,since what the jack is called will vary a lot and so will its price

10:03 AM

would a pneumatic cylinder have enough force to work?

no

10:03 AM

not even close

10:03 AM

the best I could find was the air bag jack

ah ok thanks

10:04 AM

they have a bigger volume than a pneumatic cylinder

10:05 AM

if you have a good size air compressor you can fully compress in 5-10 seconds

oh ok

however with faster production, you will need mold cooling

10:06 AM

example: extrude hot plastic and press into a tile with a air jack operated die

10:07 AM

We had to make a water cooling mechanism for the mold,

10:07 AM

we initially used a barrel of water and a aquarium pump

10:08 AM

but the water got too hot after 3 or 4 hours

10:08 AM

so we changed to 1/4hp water pump and use a automotive radiator with fan to remove the heat.

10:09 AM

we can make one 200 gram rice mill bucket every 2 min

10:10 AM

or a 800 gram plant pot can be molded every 3-4 min

1

ah ok,very nice

Hello, I'm new to discord and this site... Does anyone have suggestions on temps for injection mold machines. I am having diffuculty with getting my temps correct with #2 plastic

basforlife

Hello, I'm new to discord and this site... Does anyone have suggestions on temps for injection mold machines. I am having diffuculty with getting my temps correct with #2 plastic

the melt temp for hdpe is anywhere from to 200c to 280c,so start low and go up if needed,i find about 210 to be the sweet spot for the plastic im using but it may defer depending on grades and other stuff

Thank you so much!! I have been letting the machine heat up for about 15 min. does that sound right?

Whats the thickness of the sheet used to cut out the shredder blades?

opabinia

Whats the thickness of the sheet used to cut out the shredder blades?

5mm.

Great, thank you!

Are there image examples of different knife configurations for the 2.1 somewhere?

Small scale North American version

1

4

Got a lot of play here, ok or do i need to shim it somehow?

@doubletrouble try looking at washers at each end of the axle. Radius on axle could not let the washer fit properly. Try to cut/grind the edge on inner diameter of the washer.

magi SVK

@doubletrouble try looking at washers at each end of the axle. Radius on axle could not let the washer fit properly. Try to cut/grind the edge on inner diameter of the washer.

Thanks but I really don't follow what you mean. Could you please elaborate?

doubletrouble

Got a lot of play here, ok or do i need to shim it somehow?

This is normal amount of play due to the design of shredder unit.

does anyone have the shredder 3d model?

Meet CrunchBird our "new" shredder. We picked this up for less than $500 (USD) and it runs fine (208v 3 phase). Only issue is it don't shred as well as the PP type. I will be trying hard plastics (this is mostly PET/PETE) so I am hoping that is the only issue. It's also very dirty. Any suggestions on cleaning out the shredding area?

6:51 AM

InspiredMechanic

Meet CrunchBird our "new" shredder. We picked this up for less than $500 (USD) and it runs fine (208v 3 phase). Only issue is it don't shred as well as the PP type. I will be trying hard plastics (this is mostly PET/PETE) so I am hoping that is the only issue. It's also very dirty. Any suggestions on cleaning out the shredding area?

to clean the shredder try using compressed air/canned air to dislodge the plastic and a vaccum to suck the plastic,if that doesnt work[it should] try using a brush+soap+degreaser to clean it

@blk.wth Okay, no risk that the blades get stuck ?

@doubletrouble shredder shaft, place where hexbar is turned down to cylinder. There should be small radius, which may not let the washers- those ringy things at the end of blades to get to contact - to push blades together. Aaand the hole of this washer has an edge, which collides with said radius. So you should try to file/grind down this edge. I will have to change shaft later today, so i can send you a pic, if it's still not clear enough

10:06 AM

Sheet press pro is BIG

10:07 AM

Why does it need to be so tall?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Why does it need to be so tall?

to discriminate against the short?

Well we are using available local materials..

11:31 AM

Which we are unable to find the specified long travel 10 ton jack

11:32 AM

So maybe the cold press not need to be so tall?

11:32 AM

Can the orig dev team members weigh in?

doubletrouble

@blk.wth Okay, no risk that the blades get stuck ?

Yeah we found plastic would get stuck and just keep spinning around. To remedy this, I make the shredder box with 6mm blades and 5mm blade spacers and then add a spacer (2mm) on the end faces of the shredder box ends to take up the cumulative material thickness creep.

Shoebox-Mold-Plan.pdf

20.08 KB

3:06 PM

This is the mold design we are currently testing for the sheet press, feel free to use it or comment anything to improve. An issue that remains unsolved: how to control the thickness of the sheet with accuracy?

@doubletrouble the gap between the cutting blades shouldn't be, the shaft wears out quickly, material is stuck in between and it can block because of this

похищен

@doubletrouble the gap between the cutting blades shouldn't be, the shaft wears out quickly, material is stuck in between and it can block because of this

Okay, so I need to add some shims to the sides then?

8:07 PM

so it gets tight

On the big shredder, there are screws on the end. This small one dont have screws, the bearings press it slight together

okay, I can't get the bearings to push it together any tighter. The total slack is up towards 1mm. So if I get two .5mm shims, one on each side. Should do the trick right?

Imperial unit injection machine plans. Do they exist?

Rai

Imperial unit injection machine plans. Do they exist?

I can help if you need.

oh cool, I'd appreciate that!!

5:06 AM

could either move to dms or Precious Plastic MN, whichever you prefer

1

8:31 AM

Not much done today. Electrical box.

@Butte (PP Philippines) how is the quality of of the sheets you get from the previous sheet press?

8:35 AM

adn how important is the pid heater?

*and

Anyone in Los Angles with a CNC machine I can use .

making the inside of the press frame. We ended up using 2 pieces of 2x2 inch square tubing vs the spec sheet 2x4 tubing. We are using flat bar stock for the support. Cost difference is huge. Laser cutter wanted 850usd for just the cross frame 6mm parts.

No budget for that. So we are hand fabricating the frame from flat bar stock. Also the specified long travel hand jack is not available. We have to use the smaller bottle jack.

Hey everyone we are looking for someone who is capable of making custom injection molds. Hoping to find someone who is in the usa just cause of shipping but open to wherever.

Hello everyone

6:06 PM

I was trying to put my Electronics together for the injection mould machine. But my SSR doesn't seem to come on. Any suggestions? Or anyone know where I might be going wrong ?

@pleaseplastic bad cabling ?

pleaseplastic

I was trying to put my Electronics together for the injection mould machine. But my SSR doesn't seem to come on. Any suggestions? Or anyone know where I might be going wrong ?

You need the +/- signal from your PID for the SSR to turn on.

Hi, does anyone has the bluprints of the schredder machine that David built in his website www.preciousplastic ?

@Miguel Picos https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21

@pauldufour is the shredder pro working pretty well for fabrics? how was your experience with a USA standard build?

@Joseph so far the shredder's doing well with fabrics, though i haven't done extensive testing yet. i have a longer video of that test if you're curious to see. the imperial standard conversion was quite a headache but now that thicknesses etc are sorted out it should be easier to continue evolving the design. all in all it seems pretty robust. re textile shredding the main issue currently seems to be material accumulation under the fixed blades. i'm probably going to forgo the sieve and extend the fixed blades all the way down the box in an effort to reduce material accumulation, tho accumulation is only happening on the 13T side which i assume is a result of higher tooth count, higher RPM, or both (gonna reconfigure blades to see how it changes). @CitSciWorkshop and i are looking at some other adaptations to see if we can resolve the fixed blade accumulation issue but won't be able to test those on this current shredder.

Hello! I need a suggestion, what is the ideal distance between the sieve and blade tips? I tried keeping it around 0.5mm but I wasn't able to bend the perforated sheet precisely. A distance between 0.5/2mm maximum can do the job?

Hello! I'm a design student trying to build a plastic extruder in a bit of a different fashion than on the website. I'm using a power drill as the motor so I need to wire in speed and direction control separately, but besides that the circuit is pretty much the same spare a few small differences. Looking to get advice from any electrically-inclined individuals here, because I have never wired anything more than a socket. I want to run this all off of a single plug so i split a 3 wire grounded cable into 6 wires so that I can have 2 different circuits. I have found a few videos for wiring the heating setup, but haven't found much on how to wire the motor with both speed and direction control. My main questions are these: How do I wire the motor (top) circuit? What order should the reverse and dimmer switch be so that I can set the speed with the dimmer and then run the drill motor forward, backward, or off, while having the dimmer switch in the same position. I want to be able to plug the drill in to the outlet and have the switch and dimmer affect the motor. How do I ground the bottom circuit? most of these components do not have a place to put a ground wire and I am worried about electrocuting myself lol. This whole setup will be in a metal box, do I need to connect my ground wire to the metal box? again I do not want to electrocute myself. Let me know if there is anything else wrong with my circuit or if there is any information I left out. Thank you all for your help, I appreciate this community!

@Butte (PP Philippines) about the height of the sheet-press, the main is to accommodate this long travel jacks + the springs. It can be useful to have all this travel if you want to produce very thick sheet (where plastic flakes will take a lot of volume).

11:42 PM

But we haven't thought specifically to this case with a too high SP, as most of us designing it were quiet tall, creating this biais.

Small bottle jacks travel quite far already.

11:42 PM

This thing is going to be a bear to transport and operate

11:43 PM

Long travel jacks above 3 tons are currently not available here

11:43 PM

It is probably too late as you already build it, but for shiping, we developped this version : than can be flat packed in just 80cm : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

We changed the grid to flat bar. Laser wanted over 800 dollars for this line item

Flatbar is a perfect option, here lasercut is much cheaper, and it still save some time aligning.

Not finished yet. Maybe 2 more weeks build. Cold press has to be built and heaters are in customs

11:46 PM

We put ours on caster wheels also. Its really hard to move around the shop otherwise

Definetly, we use a pallet jacks to move it around, wheels are a good option as well.

11:48 PM

It looks really good, I am looking forward to see it running !

Hi everyond, I need help with making molds for plastic injection.

Im chopping 400mm out of the frame height today. Its just ridiculos height now and im 6 foot 2. Too tall for even me

2:10 AM

We came up with a better option for the slides.

2:11 AM

Repurposed as a slide.

2:11 AM

2:12 AM

Since it pivots, it should make alignment easier

2:13 AM

Ill just grease the guide rod well

3:24 AM

extrusion pro drivetrain design.

3:26 AM

double b type pulley driving a center axle that in turn drives another axle. for a final rpm of 250. Since three phase difficult to get locally. and gear motors are expensive. plus gear motors only avail in 3 phase, (edited)

3:26 AM

and VFD drive up costs greatly.

3:28 AM

the extra bar welded on the press frame are just tacked on to use as a jig to align.

3:28 AM

the gussets will stay though

mitchell

Hello! I'm a design student trying to build a plastic extruder in a bit of a different fashion than on the website. I'm using a power drill as the motor so I need to wire in speed and direction control separately, but besides that the circuit is pretty much the same spare a few small differences. Looking to get advice from any electrically-inclined individuals here, because I have never wired anything more than a socket. I want to run this all off of a single plug so i split a 3 wire grounded cable into 6 wires so that I can have 2 different circuits. I have found a few videos for wiring the heating setup, but haven't found much on how to wire the motor with both speed and direction control. My main questions are these: How do I wire the motor (top) circuit? What order should the reverse and dimmer switch be so that I can set the speed with the dimmer and then run the drill motor forward, backward, or off, while having the dimmer switch in the same position. I want to be able to plug the drill in to the outlet and have the switch and dimmer affect the motor. How do I ground the bottom circuit? most of these components do not have a place to put a ground wire and I am worried about electrocuting myself lol. This whole setup will be in a metal box, do I need to connect my ground wire to the metal box? again I do not want to electrocute myself. Let me know if there is anything else wrong with my circuit or if there is any information I left out. Thank you all for your help, I appreciate this community!

Points: 1. Why do you need reverse on an extruder? 2. Why do you have 2 SSRs and 1 PID controller? 3. You could run the drill with a momentary switch and potentiometer seeing as the drill is only running in one direction. 4. I would definitely worry about electrocuing yourself. It is not something to "lol" about. The earth is designed to provide a low impedance path for current to travel. Do a search on the interwebs. 5. Consult a professional electrician before you turn it on.

blk.wth

Points: 1. Why do you need reverse on an extruder? 2. Why do you have 2 SSRs and 1 PID controller? 3. You could run the drill with a momentary switch and potentiometer seeing as the drill is only running in one direction. 4. I would definitely worry about electrocuing yourself. It is not something to "lol" about. The earth is designed to provide a low impedance path for current to travel. Do a search on the interwebs. 5. Consult a professional electrician before you turn it on.

1. The drill normally turns a screw in the backwards direction, they are designed to pull material backwards, not push it forward. This drill in particular is an old black and decker drill without a reverse switch. also reversing can be helpful in clearing up jams

blk.wth

Points: 1. Why do you need reverse on an extruder? 2. Why do you have 2 SSRs and 1 PID controller? 3. You could run the drill with a momentary switch and potentiometer seeing as the drill is only running in one direction. 4. I would definitely worry about electrocuing yourself. It is not something to "lol" about. The earth is designed to provide a low impedance path for current to travel. Do a search on the interwebs. 5. Consult a professional electrician before you turn it on.

2. The PID can control 2 heating bands, the SSRs are there to control each heating band individually.

I didn't realise! Stand corrected. Normally run 2 PIDs

Hello. I have problem with shredder pro. In upper side on left looks like have a big friction on spacers. On right side have nothing... And on right side blades are more hot than left side blades.... Its confuses for me... And here and pictures on down side... And I can make one rotation with hand... I'm really confused... (edited)

1:32 AM

I'm sorry but how is that hammer called ?

Hello everyone, Im trying to source a motor for the extruder build. The only specs i can find is the RPM which is 70. Anyone have more information on this?

Hi everyone. I've searched for lots of messages about shredding fishing nets but couldn't find a conclusive answer: Is a simple shredder enough to shred polyamide multifilament net? I live in an small island in Brazil and I'm working with the fishing community to try to solve this problem. We want to shred it and use for filling dog beds (that are sewed by the community). I have very limited resource and can't risk buying the wrong shredder. If anyone was experience to share, I would love to hear about it, thks a lot!!

Sewayaki Kitsune No Senko-san

Click to see attachment 🖼️

It’s a panelbeating hammer, flat faces usually with a round face and square on the other end

Hello everyone, quick question on cutting plastic after it has been extruded into beams. Is there any sort of hot blade or hydraulic blade that you can use to cut these beams to size or specific angles? We are trying to find an alternative to the traditional means of cutting which involve lots of plastic pieces as waste. Thanks, Dave.

2:39 AM

A friend sent me this video of his DIY molder

Looks Amazing!

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

could this machine be used for aluminum die casting?

7:25 AM

it looks very similiar to the die casting machines (edited)

No

Proofy

Hello. I have problem with shredder pro. In upper side on left looks like have a big friction on spacers. On right side have nothing... And on right side blades are more hot than left side blades.... Its confuses for me... And here and pictures on down side... And I can make one rotation with hand... I'm really confused... (edited)

Can you clear the stucked plastic by using reverse?

Someone can help me with the configuration of rex- c100 ?

Deleted User

Someone can help me with the configuration of rex- c100 ?

do you have your manual for it?

8:01 PM

happy to help, just seeing what resources you have already

Yes but I don't have idea to configurate beacuse are not real manual

8:02 PM

I have a resistence type k and ssr 40A input with 4-32VC and out max 380VAC

8:02 PM

but the conection are correct but the problem is the configuration of the rex-c100

8:03 PM

Not send the signal to open the ssr

This video shows how to navigate the menu for settings. Their application if for a quail farm but it generally covers settings well and isn't unbearably over detailed like some video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HM8Pc-LWZJU&ab_channel=quailfarm

quail farm

PID REX C100 quick initial setup

Ok thanks I will take it example

I'm trying to find my favorite link with a good flowchart of the programming too.

8:05 PM

This is a good one, https://manualzz.com/doc/20324816/rex-c100-instruction-manual-series

REX-C100 INSTRUCTION MANUAL SERIES | Manualzz

Thank you very much !!

happy to help!

I see the video but I have a trouble this not have the same menu than I have

8:28 PM

This is the manual that have the original

Deleted User

Click to see attachment 🖼️

This is the page that shows your parameter menu

Yes but not working

9:46 PM

I don't have a idea why..

9:48 PM

this is the wiring diagram that I used

Deleted User

Yes but not working

What can you observe about it? Is the output LED on the PID display on? Is the corresponding LED on the SSR on too?

https://youtu.be/RDiV3W9p6BM this seems pretty cool

Plastic bottle cutter

SLATE, SHINGLES MADE OF PLASTIC BOTTLES

hello

6:05 AM

someone of you can build the extruder pro?

Hello everyone! I am trying to deterime utility requirements for the sheet press and I was wondering if anyone knew what ventalation cfm is required for safe operation? Thank you. (edited)

Hi guys, I can't seem to get the temperature controller/SSR circuit running. I'd appreciated any help from anyone. The PID turns on but the SSR doesnt. Also tested resistance between pins 1 and 2 of the SSR, it doesn't seem to have an issue. This is what I'm currently following:

12:56 PM

@Tao Yes we can make check us on Precious Plastic Bazar https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/nb-enterprise/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/_recosolution/ (edited)

All Sellers :: RecoSolution

Proofy

Hello. I have problem with shredder pro. In upper side on left looks like have a big friction on spacers. On right side have nothing... And on right side blades are more hot than left side blades.... Its confuses for me... And here and pictures on down side... And I can make one rotation with hand... I'm really confused... (edited)

Do u use a sieve? For use without i habe a solution

10:47 PM

Thoughts?

PuaNow

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Is that for a V3 shredder in North America?

Tao

hello

Quote sent

Butte (PP Philippines)

Quote sent

thanks

The grinder took a bump in shipping and the top of the gearbox looks shifted.

2:06 PM

It also manages to get clogged

2:06 PM

Any ideas or guidance?

Crosspost from Cheeseburger Region: I'm just logging into PP discord for the first time (yesterday), but I'm at a (small) University in East TN, (North America) looking on the Bazaar to find a builder or supplier for getting a Grinding Space set up for a Mechanical Engineering Senior Design Project starting in the Fall. I've read the basic grinder schematics provided in the starter kit, and I've ordered the steel to build the frame. Thinking of getting a lift from Harbor Freight to use as the motor, but I'm concerned that the speed may be around 30 RPM instead of the recommended 70 RPM. Is this too low? Guidance/assistance is greatly appreciated.

I assume there aren't too many issues with loosening the gearbox screws and reseating?

1:24 AM

For those of you doing benchtop mini injection molders, this propane tank connector works perfect as the nozzle

1:25 AM

Regarding hoists for shredders.

1:28 AM

The units i get are 1800 watts. We disassemble the gearbox, pull the shaft and machine it to 1 inch with a 1/4 inch keyway. Joining the motor with the shredder we machine a chain flex coupler.

1:29 AM

End result

1:32 AM

So far, reliability of these motors is moderate. We advertise as light duty only. We have had a 9% fail rate of these motors requiring re-build

1:33 AM

Compared to the Teco 5hp industrial motor in our big shredder that has zero fail.

1:36 AM

the fails are usually people running the motors too long and they get hot and burn out. (edited)

1:36 AM

Chain flex coupler

1:37 AM

They need to be bored for your shaft size. Cost is around 20usd

Someone who has built the shredder knows if i can use 3/16 inch steel plate which is 4.76 mm instead of 5 mm that they used originally?, i live in Mexico near the border with USA so all things are in inches

No you can not, without adjusting everything in your CAD file

1:40 AM

I had a Philippine supplier send me 3/16 and it was a terrible fit.

Thanks man!

GaboAX100

Someone who has built the shredder knows if i can use 3/16 inch steel plate which is 4.76 mm instead of 5 mm that they used originally?, i live in Mexico near the border with USA so all things are in inches

You'll want to use the imperial shredder files then. They have all of the imperial offsets adjusted. Do you have them?

I dont, i didnt they even existed

3:57 AM

didnt knew*

3:57 AM

Are they available in the precious plastics website? @CitSciWorkshop

GaboAX100

I dont, i didnt they even existed

They were hosted on the forums. I have them.. one moment.

Thank you so much!

Basic Shredder - Imperial Version

Shredder_Imperial.zip

7.85 MB

2

1

4:01 AM

Using 11ga (3.03mm), 3/16' (4.76mm) and 1/4" (6.35)

4:02 AM

and please may we be the last generation to have to convert imperial to metric

1

Thanks again, its going to make things way easier to get

Happy to. If you need laser cutting, let me know!

Butte (PP Philippines)

the fails are usually people running the motors too long and they get hot and burn out. (edited)

Thanks Butte, I looked for a Teco 5hp and found this at MRO, but what do you use for a gearbox to bring down the 1800 rpms? https://www.mrosupply.com/motors/ac-motors/severe-duty-motors/5049864_np0054_teco-westinghouse/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CjwKCAjw-e2EBhAhEiwAJI5jg5ui3tBa2DwxNanqdk6lCu9EqewQdZxCAJIPgm1lJdkJm43OE_MGTxoCe9sQAvD_BwE The hoist I was looking at was ~2200 watts: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-electric-hoist-with-remote-control-62770.html Is there a specific benefit of the Chain flex coupler over the spider coupler?

Teco-Westinghouse NP0054 AEHH8P MAX-PE HP: 5 RPM: 1800 FRAME: 184T

The NP0054 is produced by Teco-Westinghouse and is described as a Teco-Westinghouse NP0054 AEHH8P MAX-PE HP: 5 RPM: 1800 FRAME: 184T

I use belts and pulley to.reduce the speed and chain and sprocket

10:35 PM

CitSciWorkshop

Is that for a V3 shredder in North America?

:\ i think so

10:42 PM

maybe i have old schematics?

CitSciWorkshop

Basic Shredder - Imperial Version

@PuaNow I think these might help you too.

CitSciWorkshop

Basic Shredder - Imperial Version

Awesome thank you!

is there any repository resource that has a lot of free/open source mold/die designs? (edited)

Hey guys, I can't seem to find the schematics for the shredder, and shredder pro. Can anyone please point me to the location? Thank you!

https://youtu.be/ISF2ABxq8pA sample results of extrusion then compression mold

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Philippines compression molding

Diatrix

Hey guys, I can't seem to find the schematics for the shredder, and shredder pro. Can anyone please point me to the location? Thank you!

download shredder workspace kit https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

is there any repository/resource where the blueprints/files for all the precious plastic molds are available?

MilliganEngineer

Crosspost from Cheeseburger Region: I'm just logging into PP discord for the first time (yesterday), but I'm at a (small) University in East TN, (North America) looking on the Bazaar to find a builder or supplier for getting a Grinding Space set up for a Mechanical Engineering Senior Design Project starting in the Fall. I've read the basic grinder schematics provided in the starter kit, and I've ordered the steel to build the frame. Thinking of getting a lift from Harbor Freight to use as the motor, but I'm concerned that the speed may be around 30 RPM instead of the recommended 70 RPM. Is this too low? Guidance/assistance is greatly appreciated.

We are a NC/SC collaboration in Columbia and Charlotte. We ended up buying a grinder from Toolots, it needs us to upgrade the electricity, so we have not yet tried the grinder - but it seems like a simpler, cheaper and more sturdy solution than the V4 shredder. I can keep you updated. Also we just finished a university capstone Mechanical Engineering project for a mini sheet press that is going straight to salvage. In retrospect it was way too ambitious for the students - you have been warned! (edited)

Hi all! We are from Montreal, Qc (Can). So we're trying to build the shredder pro and searching for a gear-motor. Is there any possibility that anyone had or could find the gear motor model described below (even used if in shape) having following specs :

Brand: SEW-Eurodrive motor
Power = 4-to-6 HP & able to hold a torque at 1200Nm
Might be new or used... (in good shape if possible)
Have the gear reductor (ratio between 70/1 to 100/1...)

Anyway, anyone be interested, let us know!

TY all!

Inspired Plastics

We are a NC/SC collaboration in Columbia and Charlotte. We ended up buying a grinder from Toolots, it needs us to upgrade the electricity, so we have not yet tried the grinder - but it seems like a simpler, cheaper and more sturdy solution than the V4 shredder. I can keep you updated. Also we just finished a university capstone Mechanical Engineering project for a mini sheet press that is going straight to salvage. In retrospect it was way too ambitious for the students - you have been warned! (edited)

Thanks HG, I'd be interested in seeing what you ended up with or hearing about how you got there. I appreciate your warning about ambition. I haven't heard of toolots.

MilliganEngineer

Thanks HG, I'd be interested in seeing what you ended up with or hearing about how you got there. I appreciate your warning about ambition. I haven't heard of toolots.

If you are working with Mechanical Engineering students, know that they will not know how to apply any electric engineering principles. Also beware that they learn all the theory, but they do not have much experience in hands on in a machine shop, so they can make drawings and studies, but actually creating the thing is not what they are trained or practiced to do. Lastly, being students, they do not understand the iterative nature of design, test, adjustments repeat - and that theory does not always translate to practice. These are very specific issues we ran into - I hope this helps.

Hello, I wanted to know if a plastic shredder can also shred flip flops?

8:25 AM

Any advice would be highly appreciated. I want to recycle flipflops but struggling to know how to move forward with the shredding.

CholoMolo

Hi all! We are from Montreal, Qc (Can). So we're trying to build the shredder pro and searching for a gear-motor. Is there any possibility that anyone had or could find the gear motor model described below (even used if in shape) having following specs :

Brand: SEW-Eurodrive motor
Power = 4-to-6 HP & able to hold a torque at 1200Nm
Might be new or used... (in good shape if possible)
Have the gear reductor (ratio between 70/1 to 100/1...)

Anyway, anyone be interested, let us know!

TY all!

2 thoughts about your question: Why limiting to one brand? I suppose there are other, comparable motors on the market, especially in North america. Gear ratio 100/1 will get you down to 16rpm if your motor turns natively at ~1600/60hz, which is the speed of most motors. You should more look for a 20:1 @1600rpm or a 40:1 @ 3200rpm. (edited)

Does anyone hve numbers on the max force needed from the hydraulic jack in the 1.5m sheet press?

Does anyone have blueprints for a very simpel and very small hand powerd shredder

hello guys

4:30 PM

I hope you're all well

4:30 PM

referring to this https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculations-required-for-shredder/

4:32 PM

when the green engineer said "Radius of cutter" did he meant the radius of the blade?

Does anyone know how to make a simpel en small hand powered shredder

TFK Willem

Does anyone know how to make a simpel en small hand powered shredder

something like this?

8:22 PM

https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-shredder-for-making-3D-printer-filament/

Plastic Shredder for Making 3D Printer Filament

Plastic Shredder for Making 3D Printer Filament : While 3D printing continues to decrease in cost, it is still a large investment. Even after the initial purchase of a printer, purchasing plastic filament still remains a costly affair. One of the best goals now in the printing community is to a…

Yes thanks you

9:04 PM

Could you send the specifics?

specifics?

10:16 AM

the build and dimensions are there in the above link

sponsoons

https://www.instructables.com/Plastic-shredder-for-making-3D-printer-filament/

interesting approach. The more interesting part of it, being the super low cost and diy approach. I wouldn't expect great results by it, but i think that a really cheap (and well working) shredder, could revolutionize even more the rates of recycling. Other than this, you could maybe try by building the basic shredder blades, chasis and hopper and try to drive it with a hand lever...

has the use of carbide saw blades as shredder blades been looked at?

This question will have been asked 1000 times no doubt but is there any way to download the CAD files for the V3 machines? Downloading V2 was easy enough but downloads seem to be disabled on part cloud

@Butte (PP Philippines) how much did your version of the extrusion pro cost you?

6:07 PM

and what kind of output do you get from it per hour?

sponsoons

has the use of carbide saw blades as shredder blades been looked at?

Yes, I have seen that on numerous occasions, it is not sensible or overly productive.

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

Yes, I have seen that on numerous occasions, it is not sensible or overly productive.

ah ok,so laser cut blades are better?

I would expect the saw blades to cut much finer and use less power, but to have a much shorter lifetime

4:48 PM

if you dumped a tub of lego into the grinder, which method do you think would last longer

If possible you can get them waterjet cut. Someone that has a Dynamic Waterjet head on their machine can cut a real nice blade without needing much re-work in the "point" cut area of the blade. Laser can be OK depending on the material you are cutting and can cause edge hardening, whihc can be a good thing or cause britlleness. Waterjet cut parts avail the HAZ (Heat affected Zone). (edited)

the hardness of the saw blades are tuned for high speed cutting wheras the grinder is very low speed (edited)

ah ok

sponsoons

ah ok,so laser cut blades are better?

The carbide tips on a saw blade, if brazed properly such as the case on a good blade would be acceptable. What does not work is the clearance design of the rest of the blade it will in short order entrap plastic and cause it to Jam. The near zero bypass design of the Precious Plastic type of blades limits the plastic that gets between, in fact the tighter the spacing the better it is, although it becomes tougher to build as per the potential accumulative error on the stack. From a price point of view it also makes no sense to use a good quality saw blade instead of a proper blade with a HEX drive, another issue with wanting to mount a saw blade. Plastic is tough, do not underestimate what it takes to cut up some "Lego" for example. (edited)

ah ok thanks,i had not thought of that possiblity

Morning Everyone, i am thinking of a low tect machine to recycle power cords. basically sort the plastic on one side, and the copper on the other side. is there anyone with the same idea and willing to share ideas ? i ve done some drawings and building the first machine with square tube and angle from the injection and shredder making. thanks !

Crea-Cregy

Morning Everyone, i am thinking of a low tect machine to recycle power cords. basically sort the plastic on one side, and the copper on the other side. is there anyone with the same idea and willing to share ideas ? i ve done some drawings and building the first machine with square tube and angle from the injection and shredder making. thanks !

would it be possible to share those drawings?

yes it's possible, but i'm more confident in sharing the first prototype if it works. my drawings will be impossible to understand.

Crea-Cregy

yes it's possible, but i'm more confident in sharing the first prototype if it works. my drawings will be impossible to understand.

nah just share drawings,even if they are barely understandable it will still give us a rough idea of how you want to go about with making the machine

6:59 PM

which is important since there are many ways you could go about in building such a machine

unrelated but has anybody tried using 3d printed gear boxes for the extrusion machines?

as far as business plans; I am looking into selling the machines and also selling CNC cut molds for the injection molder. Could potentially use wood for some simpler designs, although I think eventually using chromium steel is probably the material I want to go for. If anyone has ideas for better materials to cut molds from they will be more than appreciated. Also if there is any kind of standard plating, chemical or heat treatment that will increase service life, part quality or ease of part manufacturing that will also be helpful.

any one build the plastic extruder machine?

I don't know if I'm getting old or blind or both... is the basic shredder and basic extruder on the site anywhere? All i can find are the downloads for the pro versions.

@stjohnny22 you should be able to find the blueprints of the basic machines in the Mix starter kit

has anybody made a pellet cutter for the extrusion?

has anyone tried using a machine like this for making plastic pelllets?

1:33 PM

Anybody else who has finished an extruder pro.... Where did you put your thermocouples in relation to the elements they control? Just looking for best practices here. Also, did you have success using the PID autotune? I'm sure each producer has a slightly different way of doing it, but the concept seems to be universal.

6:02 AM

I'm just starting my testing (as my machinist is working on the custom parts) but I want to have this prepped and ready as soon as he's done

@TEglen best practice would be to get the sensor in the middle of 2 heated band.

7:43 AM

@TEglen i use NOVUS temp controller and the auto tune fucntion is perfect. yours seems to come from ebay, using old technologies, but it should work as well.

1

4:04 PM

Does anyone have recommendations on this joint?

4:05 PM

Also on keeping the bed leveled as much as possible

Crea-Cregy

@TEglen best practice would be to get the sensor in the middle of 2 heated band.

Can you link to the Novus controller you use?

Someone who has built a shredder knows if this motor is good enough?

7:35 PM

7:36 PM

It looks similar to what they used in the shredder build video

@GaboAX100 do you know the gearbox Ratio?

8:00 PM

And output shaft OD

So far as i can see, the motor is 0,37Kw. This would only work in the small mini shredder. But with very very low rpm (edited)

8:13 PM

@GaboAX100 as an example, this motor with output Speed 111rpm have 31,83Nm. Very low. You need Minimum 200-300

Hi all, Sorry for the cross-posting... I thought that this is the proper channel to get the attention of some people with technical skills... We have a new open hardware project, which is about building a food processing extruder, village scale. I would like to ask a few questions to people here that have worked on the plastic extruder, people with mechanical / CAD skills, and also see if they desire to collaborate with us, to remix designs. I already see many benefits for the One Army community from this collaboration and we can also explore building formal bridges between Sensorica and One Army. Where can we have these discussions? Here is more about our project. https://www.sensorica.co/projects/food-and-agriculture/leaves-blender

peer into the future - Leaves blender

Objectives

Aloha! Anyone have tips for working with the MyPIN T-series? One seems to work great, but the other blows past the set point. The settings appear identical. Any tips are much appreciated!

Hi!, someone can show me the wiring diagram of extrusion machine?

psakamoto808

Aloha! Anyone have tips for working with the MyPIN T-series? One seems to work great, but the other blows past the set point. The settings appear identical. Any tips are much appreciated!

oh! I'm having the exact same problem! literally just today. I'd love to crack this problem. One of my heating elements got up to 400 in just a few seconds. and I dont know why

12:39 AM

@psakamoto808 did you go through and reset the initail settings? E.g. Setting the D variable to 200, the Control variable to 1, etc.

1

12:40 AM

I followed this guy as a start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=En5Ewow4_tU

Barley and Hops Brewing

Setting parameters on the MyPin T series PID controller

I’ve been having issues with my injection mould being too cold and the plastic hardening before it can be pressed all the way in. I tried putting it in a solar oven and heat gunning it before attaching to my machine, but I only had a success rate of 1:6. Should I set the temp on the injector higher??

Jen—NM

I’ve been having issues with my injection mould being too cold and the plastic hardening before it can be pressed all the way in. I tried putting it in a solar oven and heat gunning it before attaching to my machine, but I only had a success rate of 1:6. Should I set the temp on the injector higher??

Which plastic type, how thick is your part and what is your temperature setting now? How "liquid" comes the plastic out of your nozzle? Also have a look here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/trouble-shooting-injection-moulding

1

TEglen

@psakamoto808 did you go through and reset the initail settings? E.g. Setting the D variable to 200, the Control variable to 1, etc.

I did! Also found this mention regarding auto-tune. Don’t know if it’ll pertain, but will give it a shot when I get home.

psakamoto808

I did! Also found this mention regarding auto-tune. Don’t know if it’ll pertain, but will give it a shot when I get home.

My system over heats soo fast I'm concerned the AT won't even have time to complete before it melts....

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto I was using type 2 at a temp of 272. The mold I have is for a 5” tall flower pot. When I push the plastic out without a mold on, it’s like a really soft poop lol.

2:13 AM

I’ve also found that the nozzle doesn’t get quite hot enough and I have to heat gun that as well. even after letting the machine heat up for an hour, there’ll still be hardened bits in there. But I’m probably just being too conservative with my temp settings?

I was thinking about using a shop vac to suck up all the shredded plastic back into the hopper to be shredded again to avoid wait times. Anyone know if this has been realized?

Our grinder pro keeps jamming when we add the filters for the granules. Does anyone have the same experience?

9:48 AM

we can go for about 30 seconds before it jams

Falcon

Our grinder pro keeps jamming when we add the filters for the granules. Does anyone have the same experience?

What material are you using? That happened for us using PLA

PP

9:48 AM

did you find a solution?

Not yet. The heat from friction was causing it to melt to its glass transition temperature. We have stuck with PP and HDPE since then. I would get a laser thermometer gun to see what kind of heat it’s producing

The main part of the problem for us appears to be that the plastic just never falls out

9:58 AM

it just piles up under the grinder and adds more and more friction

Jen—NM

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto I was using type 2 at a temp of 272. The mold I have is for a 5” tall flower pot. When I push the plastic out without a mold on, it’s like a really soft poop lol.

5" is not small, depends on the diameters and thickness?

How much volume is it and how much volume can your injection heat up (only the region where the heat bands are)? Really soft poop sounds enough

Hardened bits sounds not so good! Plastic granulate is clean and sure everything HDPE (2)? And if the minimum thickness of your part is smaller than 3mm it would be hard for the precious plastic injection machine to fill. You need more pressure the smaller the thickness is...

1

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto I need to go measure the thickness but I think it might be right around 3mm. I was also considering making the injection hole in the mould a tad bigger

(here’s a video I took of our first success for approximate reference)

@Falcon that joint does not make sense to me although there should be some movement. It is supposed to be the function of the dour guide bearings at each corner to assist the levelling. They should be of high enough quality or of a small tolerance design to assure some parallalism just as it is done with a due set or mould pin and bushing guides.

we thoroughly overloaded it

9:19 AM

The guides are as tight as they can be as far as I can tell. The heat expansion makes them decently tight when at temperature

9:22 AM

I was thinking of adding some steel strips welded on to the frames to act as guides to help it stay more level.

9:23 AM

but I can 100% confirm that 200C is too low for making a 25mm sheet of pp lol

because these machines are seeing use all over the world i’ve been wondering if some kind of staged/phased heating and agitating system might be useful? seems like getting things up to the right temperature homogeneously can be an issue...I saw someone talk about pulsed air blasts in a drying hopper that do some function like that. not as a component of an existing machine but maybe a separate process/design. since I’m sure all the plastic could benefit from consistent and uniform heating

Am I correct in thinking that the injection molding heating bands don't have a polarity? Also do the thermometers have a polarity?

Reactive_Gold

Am I correct in thinking that the injection molding heating bands don't have a polarity? Also do the thermometers have a polarity?

The band heaters we use do have coded wires but you can run them either direction. The thermocouples do have polarity, the temperature will go the opposite direction if wired incorrectly.

blk.wth

The band heaters we use do have coded wires but you can run them either direction. The thermocouples do have polarity, the temperature will go the opposite direction if wired incorrectly.

So it will try and show a negative temp on the LCD if wired wrong?

Reactive_Gold

So it will try and show a negative temp on the LCD if wired wrong?

Yes, on the PID controller the temp will go down. Just hold a thermocouple in your fingers and double check.

TEglen

Can you link to the Novus controller you use?

thats the one : https://www.prosensor.com/fiche.asp?id=886

Régulateur PID de température 48x48 économique N1030

Régulateur de température PID N1030 économique et compact, seulement 35mm de profondeur. Solution compacte avec connecteurs détachables, optimisation des encombrements et des coûts. 2 sorties configurables en relais ou alarmes.

régulation PID ou ON/OFF
auto-réglage des paramètres PID
2 sorties indépendantes:1 relai + pulse
entrée thermo...

9:26 AM

Morning All, i am looking or flower plant mould and freesbee drawings. can you advise where i could download these ? they exist for sure, the bazar is offering them. thanks

has anybody come up with a continuous way to make plastic sheets?

@sponsoons https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/continuously-produce-sheets

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

nah like similar to the way the are commercially made?

4:23 PM

since this process has a bottleneck in terms of both cost and output

Hello, can anyone help me? I would like to build a shredder, and looking for the drawings which I can send to the laser cutter. Where is the "download" link? Thanks a lot!

Mum Goes Green

Hello, can anyone help me? I would like to build a shredder, and looking for the drawings which I can send to the laser cutter. Where is the "download" link? Thanks a lot!

Here's the download page for the shredder 2.1 files, and I think there's laser files included

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Extrusion Pro build. Using a motor with belt/pulley speed reduction instead of the gearbox, and a standard industrial electronic enclosure box instead of the homemade unit. We also out everything on caster wheels,

9:20 AM

hey Machine builders ! We are thinking about making a machine inventory of the different machine designs from around the community and the improvements ongoing with our team and I'm wondering about the best technology to host in on. Precious Plastic has used github for a long time, but I don't see many people commenting or trying to contribute their designs there. Are you guys familiar with https://grabcad.com/ ? A few of our team has used it and seems quite well suited for distributed development. What do you think ? (edited)

GrabCAD: Design Community, CAD Library, 3D Printing Software

GrabCAD is the largest online community of professional engineers, designers & students. Learn about our 3D printing software GrabCAD Print & GrabCAD Shop

An machine inventory sounds like a great idea! I would imagine all the links to be gathered at some corner of the precious plastics webpage, whether they guide to github or not.

spiros nik

An machine inventory sounds like a great idea! I would imagine all the links to be gathered at some corner of the precious plastics webpage, whether they guide to github or not.

yup that's the idea!

Joseph

hey Machine builders ! We are thinking about making a machine inventory of the different machine designs from around the community and the improvements ongoing with our team and I'm wondering about the best technology to host in on. Precious Plastic has used github for a long time, but I don't see many people commenting or trying to contribute their designs there. Are you guys familiar with https://grabcad.com/ ? A few of our team has used it and seems quite well suited for distributed development. What do you think ? (edited)

grabcad is good to use but im not sure its searchable as in a lot of times if a design exists on grabcad a google search wont allow me to find it,so maybe something shared/duplicated on both of them would be better

6:45 PM

as github items are easier to find from a search engine

Yeah that could work. It might also be that github is the place for the final final designs , but grabcad is used in the more development stage

yes i think that would be better

6:49 PM

also if possible add the designs on thingiverse,as it would make it easier to find,it would also alllow people to link a lot of things such as changes-in the remixes section and their builds-the makes section

Isn't thingaverse mostly for 3d printed stuff?

mostly but a lot of the designs on thingiverse are for things which are not 3d printed

6:52 PM

so there a lot of non-3d printed open source designs on thingiverse

The "GrabCad workbench" seems like it would really help with project tracking and duplicating in the spirit of open-source iteration. I know theres a lot of that going on now, so to be able to capture it would be fantastic

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-an-automated-injection-molding-machine has any tried making this machine?

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Has anyone ever tried replacing a sheetpress heater with an induction heating system? whether the consumption of electric power is more efficient

Was thinking about a cheaper alternative for a plastic shredder. Possibly a partial wooden shredder could work?

It would be very likely to tear itself to pieces if any of the structural parts were wood

That was the issue I was thinking, any other materials that would suffice?

steel is relatively cheap for structurals tuff (edited)

Hi @Joseph Do you know if anyone is watching out the message backlog on the Bazar sellers. I have contacted 3 different machine builders has I am looking for a motor to run my shredder (but I want to keep it local sourcing so I am looking for France and Belgium). but nobody is answering for the last 3 weeks. It isn't giving a very good publicity. Do you know anyway to make some kind of escalation?

@TEglen yes! for example the work you did/are doing with the v4 shredder pro conversion for usa. Super valuable information ! would really be nice if we find a way to document and share that info

5:16 PM

@Archireel We don't check each message individually. Even if you try to source from a local machine builder, it's likely the motor isn't coming from there. So might want to go directly to a manufacturer!

@Archireel There is @Landryin France, did you contact him? He is a highly skilled machine builder

Hey so i made the dual Shaft machine

6:09 PM

But when i started it the motor is getting very hot and there is some sound coming

6:09 PM

Which should not come

6:09 PM

This is basically how the machine looks

6:10 PM

Could there be a reason for the motor heating up and the friction

what gear ratio is that gearbox?

25:1

6:11 PM

What could be the issue

6:14 PM

2 hp single phase motor TORQUE of gear is 203 nm

6:15 PM

does hp of motor and TORQUE of gear have any relation? is 2 hp suitable for this gear?

Jay Somani 01

But when i started it the motor is getting very hot and there is some sound coming

Ideally you can turn the shredder by hand with minimal friction. Motor getting hot whilst running means it is undersized in terms of gearbox ratio.

T!b!

Hi all, Sorry for the cross-posting... I thought that this is the proper channel to get the attention of some people with technical skills... We have a new open hardware project, which is about building a food processing extruder, village scale. I would like to ask a few questions to people here that have worked on the plastic extruder, people with mechanical / CAD skills, and also see if they desire to collaborate with us, to remix designs. I already see many benefits for the One Army community from this collaboration and we can also explore building formal bridges between Sensorica and One Army. Where can we have these discussions? Here is more about our project. https://www.sensorica.co/projects/food-and-agriculture/leaves-blender

Just bringing back the attention to this great open hardware project. We are building an extruder for processing food! If you have worked on the plastic extruder or have mechanical / CAD skills your very much welcome! https://www.sensorica.co/projects/food-and-agriculture/leaves-blender (edited)

1

sonik

@Archireel There is @Landryin France, did you contact him? He is a highly skilled machine builder

Thanks I got in touch with him and got an offer. thanks for the support guys

Happy to help.

@Mettodo | Njombe Beyond super cool

1:39 PM

We will be doing some research soon with this nozzel connected to the Extruder Pro to see if we can make the PET fluff for insulation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXKZ6ZKQcu8&ab_channel=AlexandreYevstafyev

Alexandre Yevstafyev

PET bottles Recycling cheap and easy technology, fiber from pet bot...

1

Joseph

We will be doing some research soon with this nozzel connected to the Extruder Pro to see if we can make the PET fluff for insulation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXKZ6ZKQcu8&ab_channel=AlexandreYevstafyev

this reminded me of a something i wanted to try,heres a free,accurate model of a commercial extrusion die i found, i hope it is useful to someone

8:34 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/300mt-melt-blown-mold-1

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!

8:36 AM

be sure to share if you make something that works

hey there is a problem @Mattia with this guide

10:04 AM

10:05 AM

the math listed comes out as 12.5kw not 1.5kw

@Jay Somani 01 without doing any calculations just by looking at your setup your gearbox, motor and shaft diameter are undersize for what you are trying to do. I suppose it depends on the plastic type and thickness you are trying to shred and your cutting clearance and good fitup of the gears.

Thank you @Mirco (CANADA, ON)

12:18 PM

What do you suggest as a solution

@Jay Somani 01New motor and new gearbox, as i stated above your motor and gearbox is far away from the V4-Specs.

2:10 PM

But still, your motor shuld turn without problems an empty shredder, if it doesn't, you have another problem (misalignement...)

Joseph

@Mettodo | Njombe Beyond super cool

✌️ Here an interview about the project https://proofingfuture.eu/2021/05/27/plant-protein-extractor/

Plant Protein Extractor - an Open Source High Impact Solution

"The Plant Protein Extractor device when fully developed will make it possible to produce edible food from leaves, which humans can not consume directly. My hope is that with this device we will not only be able to make humanity more resilient in the face of food supply catastrophes, but also provid

Joseph

hey Machine builders ! We are thinking about making a machine inventory of the different machine designs from around the community and the improvements ongoing with our team and I'm wondering about the best technology to host in on. Precious Plastic has used github for a long time, but I don't see many people commenting or trying to contribute their designs there. Are you guys familiar with https://grabcad.com/ ? A few of our team has used it and seems quite well suited for distributed development. What do you think ? (edited)

Hi Joseph, like the idea. We are working on a Precious Plastic Canada Version of the V4shredder, extruder Pro and injector. Our intend is to share designs once they had some field time. Just wanted to point out a couple of things in hope that we can find the best way to share ideas. First of all shared design ideas should have had some merit or proof that it has been build and works to a certain degree. If we dont we might end up with a lot of CAD designs that are not buildable and many onlookers and enthusiast will waste time building stuff that does not work. As most know, 3D CAD, with the exception of 3D toleranced designs on higher end CAD systems, the 3D is the master file and the "fitting" of parts is done in the 2d drawings made from the 3D design. The resulting details and tolerancing assures that the design can be build as intended and fits together. For a good conversion it is not simply a matter of converting numbers by 25.4 to get inch numbers or to create the cad in the inch setting. We need to objectively find commonality to get close to an international build design. The availabilty of materials and standards as well as cost of certain types and application for the intended use also play a big role. It almost seems the designs if captured should have been actually built and are somewhat functional before posting. Until there is an international design, they should be segregated by area as applicable, ie. North America and Mexico and Carribean are likely similar except for power. Why dont we create a zoom chat and leave it open to discuss this. Furthermore we could create zoom call where new designs can be discussed and voted if they need more work or to be uploaded to a database as you suggest. Uploading everything without control might create the needle in the haystack.

Joseph

Yeah that could work. It might also be that github is the place for the final final designs , but grabcad is used in the more development stage

Please also consider that there are differences in Design types, there is concept design and R &D which should be debated seperately, then there is a raw design which works in CAD and is verified and altered when it hits the shop floor to fine tune it, make it feasible and or improve it, it is then after a number of hours of proof that the CAD needs to be updated and tolerances adjusted Then approved or coted on to go to git hub.

Hi folks - wanted to reach out to see what everyone’s experience with the basic PP shredder was? We’ve been finding we have to break items down quite a lot before shredding. If we throw a whole DVD case or bottle in for example, it won’t shred or will get easily stuck. Does anyone have any good workarounds?

Thank you @sonik i highly value yoyr constant efforts towards guiding me

@durackMy experience is rather good. I knew before that the shredder will not be top notch equipment, but when you are on a budget, you can shred with it. Ofcourse bigger pieces must be broke down before to fit into the hopper. I have no problem shredding CD/DVD-Cases, bottles (no PET), jerrycans and so on. I have a 2,8kw motor with reduction to 42rpm, which gives nearly 600nm of torque. What are the specs of your motor?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iK_9lE_--O0

GEMCOmachine

Small pellet mill machine video: how to made plastic pellets.

3:00 AM

Here is a little project we are exploring at Precious Plastic Philippines. Unfortunately, several of these mills ordered from China never arrived. At least they were COD so nothing lost except a lot of wasted time. But still, a pain.

3:01 AM

We have several barrels full of shredded sachet, bag, foil film plastics which when mixed together in the extrusion machine gives me a greenish, plastic with specs of shiny alum in the mix and it smells a bit bad when hot, but the odor goes away after cooling.

3:02 AM

Plans are to pelletize the normally un-usable plastics and mold them into new things.

3:03 AM

As of now the shredded flake from bags etc is too light weight to flow thru the hopper, so it needs to be compacted, air removed, and densified into a pellet.

Hello

https://discord.gg/pKUEznPM

https://youtu.be/GQSND2r1ZGE

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Pro Extrusion Machine

Hello, someone has experience with the biopress? (section 8. Research - beyond plastic), I have some questions about the variables, because in my country I cant get some materials, in the document said that they used 15tf and variable temperature between 200 C to 280C, whats the lower values for this works?

Does anyone see issue with a strong wood based frame for the shredder?

the fast that it twists with a steel frame

8:45 PM

at least the pro

8:45 PM

if it gets loaded heavily, it moves

If the base of my frame is weighted enough then it will not move. Where is there "twisting"?

the torque of the motor twisting the table

10:07 PM

you could maybe be ok with the small shredder as long as you have a solid slab of wood and big washers to make sure that the bolts don't pull through, but I would not recommend it.

10:08 PM

it's something you want to be as sturdy as possible

I need a display as you can see attached to the image I have attached below the following requirements are mentioned below 1) I need a large touchscreen display, which will be connected via cloud on which I can run my advertisements 2) when a customers feeds a bottle in the hole provided right next to the display as you can see in the photo mentioned below, the advertisement will stop playing and there will come an option to select vouchers such as vouchers of paytm , redbus and all other companies 3) the purpose is to give the customer a reward in exchange of the bottle provided 4)when they select the voucher then they will have to input their mobile number and they will receive a message on their mobile number with the details of the chosen voucher. 5) while typing the mobile number screen pops up there will be a 30 second time out 6) if the customer doesn't feed the mobile number in 30 seconds the ads will start to play again This is basically the requirement for the machine

5:03 AM

Can anyone help me out where to get a touchscreen display and software for my reverse vending machine??

Jay Somani 01

I need a display as you can see attached to the image I have attached below the following requirements are mentioned below 1) I need a large touchscreen display, which will be connected via cloud on which I can run my advertisements 2) when a customers feeds a bottle in the hole provided right next to the display as you can see in the photo mentioned below, the advertisement will stop playing and there will come an option to select vouchers such as vouchers of paytm , redbus and all other companies 3) the purpose is to give the customer a reward in exchange of the bottle provided 4)when they select the voucher then they will have to input their mobile number and they will receive a message on their mobile number with the details of the chosen voucher. 5) while typing the mobile number screen pops up there will be a 30 second time out 6) if the customer doesn't feed the mobile number in 30 seconds the ads will start to play again This is basically the requirement for the machine

There are a lot of touchscreens you can get that might work for that. software and your UX would likely be something you'd need to develop.

@Jay Somani 01Is that your machine on the photo? Is your machine ready and you just need the screen??

Yes my machine is ready and i just need the screen

9:07 AM

A good touchscreen display

Look there, you may find what you need. https://nextion.tech/

Home

NEXTION INTRODUCTION What's NextionNextion is a Human Machine Interface （HMI） solution combining an onboard processor and memory touch display with Nextion Editor

Thank you very much @sonik you've been helping me out constantly and i hight appreciate it

7:07 PM

Thank you @CitSciWorkshop i've contacted a few on fiverr Appreciate your help

Hi All, I am new to wiring and have been following the steps to build the injection molding machine posted through Precious Plastics. I was wondering if it was possible to convert the wireframe attached here from a 230v outlet to a 110v outlet? How might the diagram differ if it was possible? Any help will be much appreciated, thank you in advance! (edited)

Hello Everyone, I'm new here. The Precious Plastics vision is similar to something I've been talking about with my partner for some time now; glad I found a group of people executing it... I've run a machine shop and custom machine building company for about 10 years now. If there's anything I can do to help anyone out, let me know.

Maker

Hi All, I am new to wiring and have been following the steps to build the injection molding machine posted through Precious Plastics. I was wondering if it was possible to convert the wireframe attached here from a 230v outlet to a 110v outlet? How might the diagram differ if it was possible? Any help will be much appreciated, thank you in advance! (edited)

110V will work on this circuit but pull more amps compared to 240V. Check your band heater wattage and calculate the total amps in the circuit.

Marauder093

Hello Everyone, I'm new here. The Precious Plastics vision is similar to something I've been talking about with my partner for some time now; glad I found a group of people executing it... I've run a machine shop and custom machine building company for about 10 years now. If there's anything I can do to help anyone out, let me know.

Welcome aboard. Whereabouts are you located? There might be some local PP groups on your area that can always use a good machinist

@MakerYou need obviously 110V Band heaters, for the rest there is no difference.

Hello everyone! I am new to the world of Precious Plastic so I apologize if my question is rudimentary but to anyone who has made or has experience with the basic extrusion machine: did you use an auger bit and if so, what size?

blk.wth

Welcome aboard. Whereabouts are you located? There might be some local PP groups on your area that can always use a good machinist

I'm in Northern California, USA. I've been looking on the map and it seems to be pretty scarce in my area.

liam_at_dst

Hello everyone! I am new to the world of Precious Plastic so I apologize if my question is rudimentary but to anyone who has made or has experience with the basic extrusion machine: did you use an auger bit and if so, what size?

I've used Auger bits in the past with varying degrees of success. The best I used was a Bosch 1.25in x 18in carbon steel. Now-a-days I get the Extrusion Screws from RobotDigg Or from a supplier in China when I need something bigger. Huge price difference going from auger to a proper screw but the performance increase is most definitely worth it.

Marauder093

I've used Auger bits in the past with varying degrees of success. The best I used was a Bosch 1.25in x 18in carbon steel. Now-a-days I get the Extrusion Screws from RobotDigg Or from a supplier in China when I need something bigger. Huge price difference going from auger to a proper screw but the performance increase is most definitely worth it.

Noted. That's great information, thank you very much!

1

@liam_at_dstI can absolutely confirm @Marauder093, i passed from the auger bit to the robotdigg screw, and yes, there is no secret why industrials don't use auger-bits. The auger bit can still be useful if you want to do lampshades or so.

hi i'm new to Precious plastic and on discord.... and i want to build a shreder but everytime i send the files from Precious plastic to the metal shop they tel me that there is to much info missing ??? can somone near Montreal can help me with that?

Hi all! We are from Montreal, Qc (Can). So we're trying to build the shredder pro and searching for a gear-motor. Is there any possibility that anyone had or could find a gear-motor model that would have the description below (used not in a too horrible shape) having the following specs :

Brand: SEW-Eurodrive motor
Power = 3-to-6 HP & able to hold a torque at 1200Nm
Might be new or used... (in good shape if possible)
Have the gear reductor (ratio between 70/1 to 100/1...)

Anyway, anyone be interested, let us know!

TY all!

Anyone have advice on finding a short in a sheet press?

8:42 AM

I can't find it across all the phase pairs, to neutral, or to earth

8:42 AM

at least with the steel sheets off

8:42 AM

Not seeing any loose wires that could touch the sheets->earth either

@CholoMolo i use this, SEW, 3kw 1200Nm 24rpm

1

10:28 AM

New its very expensive, i had luck to get it for 300€ it was used about 3 months in factory

Hey - does anyone know how different injection molding machines can be? And if it's worth spending more for this type https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/injection/injection-fully-built/arbor-injection-machine-elena-catalonia-the-original/ or just going for the lowest cost to start with - what will the price difference mean and how will that affect the procesS?

Arbor - Injection machine - "Elena" - Catalonia

Falcon

Anyone have advice on finding a short in a sheet press?

Take a look to damaged cables e.g. squeezed. Disconnect all cables from main cabinet, then connect one by one and check, which cable/electric part causes problem. Be careful and turn off power supply every time you work on electricity

1:29 PM

Found the problem

1

похищен

New its very expensive, i had luck to get it for 300€ it was used about 3 months in factory

Woaw... we like these eurodrive motor since they often come assembled as "gear-motor". Do you know someone or a compagny in Germany (or elsewhere in Europe) that can sell and export used Eurodrive gear-motors? Thank you sir. (edited)

CholoMolo

Woaw... we like these eurodrive motor since they often come assembled as "gear-motor". Do you know someone or a compagny in Germany (or elsewhere in Europe) that can sell and export used Eurodrive gear-motors? Thank you sir. (edited)

Sadly no, you can just buy a new one for like 1.600€ or more

I'm looking to melt down LDPE in an oven and I'm having issues with fume control. It's standard square oven and I would like to control the fumes coming out with an Activated Carbon filter. When I unscrew the top and sides of the oven, it seems like there are multiple exits where the air can go through. Any ideas on how to make a air flow that I can then pass through the Activated carbon filter Thanks

the_troubleshooter

I'm looking to melt down LDPE in an oven and I'm having issues with fume control. It's standard square oven and I would like to control the fumes coming out with an Activated Carbon filter. When I unscrew the top and sides of the oven, it seems like there are multiple exits where the air can go through. Any ideas on how to make a air flow that I can then pass through the Activated carbon filter Thanks

dunno about carbon filter, but only times i had fumes while melting down some LDPE was because of too high temp, or too long at high-ish temp

Maker

Hi All, I am new to wiring and have been following the steps to build the injection molding machine posted through Precious Plastics. I was wondering if it was possible to convert the wireframe attached here from a 230v outlet to a 110v outlet? How might the diagram differ if it was possible? Any help will be much appreciated, thank you in advance! (edited)

Hi, can you please help me out? I have been trying to download the startkit-zip folder found on this link

https://cutt.ly/starterkit-machine

but it keeps failing halfway through and says "protocol error".... I see that your building the machine and was hoping you could share the files with me perhaps through google drive? I'd appreciate that.

Nick - PP France

dunno about carbon filter, but only times i had fumes while melting down some LDPE was because of too high temp, or too long at high-ish temp

But aren't there any toxic fumes that come out that need to be treated,

похищен

Sadly no, you can just buy a new one for like 1.600€ or more

Ok thank you for the answer...

@CholoMolo look for used ones, sometimes you have luck

1

Has anyone tried making the Precious Plastics Injection machine? If so, do you have any insight as to how to build it? My funds are pretty tight, and I wanna learn how to make one efficiently

so here is an odd idea, an extruder that runs on Dc power. I have an idea of how to do it but im on the R&D end of things right now. (edited)

hi, i'm interest and passionate on starting my own precious plastic workspace in cambodia or vietnam. To start, does anyone make sell plastic shredder blades with its boxes and deliver to cambodia? I would like know how much the cost

bazar.preciousplastic.com

Hello everybody. I consult them for the mechanical relays. In the PP documents it is listed as 32A circuit braker relay, but I really don't know how to get them here in Argentina. Can someone give me some more information? Thanks!

32a should be pretty standard blobcatgooglythink

Hello good day. Who in here lives in Ghana

West Africa

Hello there! I am planning to buy a shredder kit, but I got lost between the versions. I found this one ( https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/stainless-shredder-v2.1.-laser-cut-parts-2x-bearings-stainless-shaft/ ) in the bazar, and I was wondering, what is the difference between shredder v2.1 and the "latest" version (v3?) If you can link me a video or a forum, it would be awsome! Thanks in advance!

Shredder kit Precious Plastic Slovakia

does anyone have any numbers on how much pressure is needed to make sheets?

1:35 PM

how much force per sqm

@Falcon yes this would be interesting to know

7:31 PM

Are you having trouble getting enough pressure on your sheets?

we're sizing hydraulics for our table and numbers are hard to come by

For a new sheet press?

modifying the current one

Bc you want more pressure?

we want the table to apply pressure evenly

1

7:32 PM

the first half hour is melting everything flat

ah ok So you think you could speed up the melt time if you had more pressure?

even pressure across the entire thing, as the table is always tilting

you mean the bottom plate of the sheetpress ?

yeah

Yes we are working on fixing that problem as well

What kinda plastic ovens do yall use?

Hi, is there a cad/step/dwg file to the shreder pro? I.ve been following precious plastic and finally decided to start building. Thanks

gandrei

Hi, is there a cad/step/dwg file to the shreder pro? I.ve been following precious plastic and finally decided to start building. Thanks

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

great, thank you sir

could someone who has an oven shoebox mold give some insight to the area/weight of the top mold and temperatures?

Hi all

4:28 PM

Selling off my plastic injection moulding machine if anyone is interested kindly DM me.

@Falcon what thickness sheets are you using for your top and bottom moulds? And are they aluminum?

we have a sheet press

8:49 PM

1mm steel

Ahh

8:50 PM

Are they warping overtime?

8:50 PM

We are having some problems with that

8:50 PM

Waves in the sheets after a few uses

hmm, we haven't had that

8:51 PM

not yet at least

How many sheets have you pressed ?

like 7

8:51 PM

and we have three sets of sheets+molds

8:52 PM

we only have a 25mm mold currently so it takes a lot of plastic for each

7 all with the same sheets?

one of the sets probably made four or five sheets

8:56 PM

but no signs of warping

8:56 PM

only when we put the sheets in the press and they heat unevenly

Hm! We are using 3 mm aluminum sheets that are getting quite warped

interesting

It's our understanding though that this is what the most people are using for sheetpress

interesting, I'd expect that to be much more expensive than steel sheets

wow, just got pricing on v3 shredder parts from laser

Hello french? I look for buy all machines for plastic, sheetpress and more (basic) im from belgium in brabant wallon

Hi from PP Lübeck, we finally started to produce HDPE beams with our extrusion machine. Suddenly, there is a little knocking sound with varying intensity coming from the barrel. Machine was fully heated up and still is quite new. Just before we had a sporadic squeaking sound which probably came from too little material supply (Flakes too big). Any idea? See also the video here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/t2sl7ik0qazqq3d/20210610_002157.mp4?dl=0

20210610_002157.mp4

Shared with Dropbox

1

its justa thumbnail (edited)

Joseph

ah ok So you think you could speed up the melt time if you had more pressure?

melt time wont be sped up much but you will get uneven sheet or warped sheet if you apply pressure too fast before it it melted. personal experience on this here

we're trying to somewhat enclose the machine to better control the pre-compression heat and to control the fumes better

@Butte (PP Philippines) you mean my post? Link should work. But I'll check back.

now its working. weird

9:38 AM

maybe you got stone or metal in the barrel?

9:38 AM

or possibly a warped barrel?

.mp4s are handled weirdly by discord

big tech does not like us sharing on social media mp4 files they can not censor...

Seems I'll have to disassemble the thing. Don't know about any Precious Plastic maintenance tutorials/instructions, yet. Would be great, though.

@Joseph use Hot Rolled Steel Pickled and oiled (HRPO) . Cold Rolled will warp as there are a lot of stresses in the steel from processing and when heated it will warp. Hot rolled is much better also for welding.... likley a different name in Europe... X ref....

1

Joseph

Ahh

@Joseph use Hot Rolled Steel Pickled and oiled (HRPO) . Cold Rolled will warp as there are a lot of stresses in the steel from processing and when heated it will warp. Hot rolled is much better also for welding.... likley a different name in Europe... X ref....

Awesome @Mirco (CANADA, ON) !

4:03 PM

Do you guys have a sheetpress then?

4:03 PM

What size? And are your steel sheets warping at all?

4:04 PM

And what thickness sheets are you using for the mould ?

We currently are working just with a small platen. I know about warping of metals from other endevours. We will be building a sheet press in a month or so. I am fairly sure you will be good with HR (Hot rolled processed material) as far as warping is concerned. we do have some makeshift moulds we are using on our press about 1/4" (6mm) and 3/8" (8mm).Good Morning, as per my voice message to you a few days ago, please - 420 Stainless Diameter 10” x 1” thickness.

1

4:31 PM

@Mirco (CANADA, ON) thanks!

5:10 PM

On another note: We are playing around with other platforms than Github for storing the machine information to allow for faster development. Has anyone had experience with Wikifactory? I uploaded this machine there to understand the process. Seems pretty good and fitting for an open source project like Precious Plastic https://wikifactory.com/@josephaklatt/test-projcet (edited)

Joseph

On another note: We are playing around with other platforms than Github for storing the machine information to allow for faster development. Has anyone had experience with Wikifactory? I uploaded this machine there to understand the process. Seems pretty good and fitting for an open source project like Precious Plastic https://wikifactory.com/@josephaklatt/test-projcet (edited)

Looks interesting have not used that platform, it might be sensible to keep the North American designs separate from the european designs, or find a way to have items common that can be common and just the iterations seperate. For example In Canada CE certification is not acceptable on most components. The material sizes are different and the Power available is different and the standards for safety are different. It would be real cool to come up with Global standard machines but that likely can`t happen easily just from material availability and cost points of view...

Yeah i agree about that @Mirco (CANADA, ON) THat's why we want to make a machine inventory where users can find different versions depending on their situation

I recall seeing awhile back a mini desktop injection molder, is there any blueprints or pics online?

Hello, i'm new here. I learnt about precious plastics a few months ago and have been pondering the idea of starting a movement here in Maun, Botswana. Ive started building a shredder now on to the extruder but the electronic components are not readily available here. im looking for help getting the right parts on amazon or ebay or if anyone has links to share. im looking to build the standard exrtuder. #deleted-channel #archived-machines #archived-bazar-sellers #🌽africa #🍔north-america

Joseph

On another note: We are playing around with other platforms than Github for storing the machine information to allow for faster development. Has anyone had experience with Wikifactory? I uploaded this machine there to understand the process. Seems pretty good and fitting for an open source project like Precious Plastic https://wikifactory.com/@josephaklatt/test-projcet (edited)

Just looked at it - looks good for hosting the info. Does it have options for user comments, so we can keep track of peoples additions/modifications right next to that particular step of the process? I just forked a copy and tried to edit it, but then it went back and edited the original (which was not my intention) Apologies if I muddied it. You may want to double check and make sure I didnt screw it up.

hehe all good @TEglen I don't think you are able to change the master without admin rights

8:56 PM

Thanks for forking !

8:57 PM

I was interested to see how that works

8:59 PM

I'm not seeing a place to add user comments directly next to a file or step in the process

Hello everyone! May I ask what type of blade are mostly used in shredder?

10:49 AM

also in extruder screws :) thank youu

Is their one repository of all the files for PP machinery?

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

Precious Plastic Downloadpack. Contribute to ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit development by creating an account on GitHub.

11:00 AM

@elementalAndrew

Joseph

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit

would it be possible to pin this message in this channel as it would be greatly helpful to those looking to find it

Hi , who has here built the trash printer? https://www.trashprinter.org/

trashprinter_4iousl

Sample Page

alistar

Hi , who has here built the trash printer? https://www.trashprinter.org/

this looks awesome

Does anyone know if there are any extrusion mods for extruding tube or pipe? Or whether PP has plans to develop this?

we have shredder 2.1 and seem to have problems with the shaft wandering moving away from the gearbox #archived-machines

going to be building an injector or two using at least some scrap metal!

5:21 PM

going to be imperial units, we’d like to release some blueprints when we’re done (edited)

Paul Mattinson

Does anyone know if there are any extrusion mods for extruding tube or pipe? Or whether PP has plans to develop this?

There is a video about it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY

One Army

Extrude beams from plastic waste #preciousplastic

would people be interested in a sheetpress temperature sensor array?

11:32 AM

would probably be 100-150 EUR

1

11:32 AM

depending on number of temperature sensors

11:33 AM

If I end up making one I need to decide how well to make it

11:34 AM

I assume that the PP team would be interested at least

Hi everybody, I work a little untraditionally with the injection machine for some furniture I am making. I don’t press it into a mould, but just squeeze it out onto tools and hand mould it (so only using a fraction of the pressure required to injection mould) I have been trying to research how to make the volume of the injection mould machine bigger. So far I have seen Jesse from Trash Panda do it (at least 360ml) and also found a seller on the Bazar who has done it (400ml). However - I need work drawings ,as I am not a machine person, and would need someone to build it for me! (Have tried contacting both Trash Panda and the seller, but no answer) Do you guys know of anyone, how has done it, and will be able to share knowledge? (:

1

@Si Mo Ne Moin, Is it important to use injection machine to squeeze it onto your tools? I started with PP right now without any machine but tested another way to melt. I made some pancakes at home and yeah, I tested with an old teflon coated pan and a portable stove and I got a nice, little plastic pancake. I have to collect more plastic waste to do further tests and improvements and will make a how to later... But this pancake melts and you can get it out of pan easily. Maybe it's an alternative way to injection machine for your tools?

What would everyone recommend for insulation to wrap around the barrel and heating elements of the injection machine? I bought some ceramic fibre insulation (high temp stuff) but it’s smoking quite a bit

durack

What would everyone recommend for insulation to wrap around the barrel and heating elements of the injection machine? I bought some ceramic fibre insulation (high temp stuff) but it’s smoking quite a bit

Ceramic should be fine, and the smoke could be from dust, coatings, etc.

1

Si Mo Ne

Hi everybody, I work a little untraditionally with the injection machine for some furniture I am making. I don’t press it into a mould, but just squeeze it out onto tools and hand mould it (so only using a fraction of the pressure required to injection mould) I have been trying to research how to make the volume of the injection mould machine bigger. So far I have seen Jesse from Trash Panda do it (at least 360ml) and also found a seller on the Bazar who has done it (400ml). However - I need work drawings ,as I am not a machine person, and would need someone to build it for me! (Have tried contacting both Trash Panda and the seller, but no answer) Do you guys know of anyone, how has done it, and will be able to share knowledge? (:

If you're happy to mix the plastic, maybe an extruder is a good option? With a larger 30mm ID barrel and 500mm length in theory you would get 350gm with a full barrel of molten plastic. It would be a big machine!

Looking at the Malaysia Hand crank shredder, has given me a bit of a idea.

7:33 AM

Anyone out there free to collab on a laser cut gearbox for this? I have the software from woodgears.ca to generate gear dxf files, but I am not so good in actual gear design. I can compute ratios but getting tooth size right is a bit outside my area.

7:34 AM

I was thinking a extra side plate to the v3.2 shredder with off the shelf flange bearings, some laser cut steel gears, spacers etc and well greased.

@blk.wth I can't afford an extrusion machine. which is why i am looking for people who have hacked the much cheaper injection machine

@orbitalratte I sadly can't use that method, i tried it and i takes even longer since my technique is ~very~ temperature sensitive and i can't work with very big chunks og plastic.

✨

Still looking for tips on enlarging the injection machine tho PreciousPlastic

✨

Si Mo Ne

There is a video about it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY

Thanks, yes I’ve seen the beams but my questions was about tube. So I was thinking of the same method but use a metal tube with a smaller diameter round bar welded concentrically to make a tube mould.

1

Paul Mattinson

Thanks, yes I’ve seen the beams but my questions was about tube. So I was thinking of the same method but use a metal tube with a smaller diameter round bar welded concentrically to make a tube mould.

the main problem is that if you do that youll be unable to remove the plastic out of the molds

1

1:59 PM

iirc there was a thread on pp community about try it,ill see if i can find it

1

but if youre feeling adventurous then the cad/3d files for the pipe extrusion head are available

2:10 PM

the only thing is youd need a cnc/milling machine/lathe to make those parts espescially the extrusion head since those are commercial designs and are fairly complicated

2:13 PM

https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-models/industrial/machine/plastic-pipes-extrusion-machine

Plastic pipes extrusion machine | 3D model

Model available for download in # format Visit CGTrader and browse more than 500K 3D models, including 3D print and real-time assets

2:13 PM

heres the link for one machine,this is the entire machine

2:13 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/pvc-pipe-extrusion-head-1

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!

2:14 PM

and this is another,this is just the pipe extruder head

2:16 PM

unfortunately this is not a small project and will be about 2500 euros if you make something a machine by combining the precious plastic pro extrusion with the extruder die

sponsoons

the only thing is youd need a cnc/milling machine/lathe to make those parts espescially the extrusion head since those are commercial designs and are fairly complicated

Thanks @sponsoons. I think some experimentation with tube mould design could be worth it and with a plastic like PP perhaps. But I get your point about shrinkage

sponsoons

unfortunately this is not a small project and will be about 2500 euros if you make something a machine by combining the precious plastic pro extrusion with the extruder die

but if you have a decent amount of skills or machines/tooling it can be significantly cheaper

Paul Mattinson

Thanks @sponsoons. I think some experimentation with tube mould design could be worth it and with a plastic like PP perhaps. But I get your point about shrinkage

ah ok,another thing is if you dont mind spending the money then theres semi-commercial pipe extruders for about 1500$ online

2:21 PM

iirc theyre either calleed 'garden pipe extruders' or jockey extruder'

does anyone here have experience using a pressure sensor for the extruder?

sponsoons

iirc theyre either calleed 'garden pipe extruders' or jockey extruder'

I'll look out for them. I have access to lots of shredded and cleaned PP in the view to making some tubes for hydroponic systems.

sponsoons

ah ok,another thing is if you dont mind spending the money then theres semi-commercial pipe extruders for about 1500$ online

they have semi commerical outputs too,about 50kg/hr and are fairly commpact

Paul Mattinson

I'll look out for them. I have access to lots of shredded and cleaned PP in the view to making some tubes for hydroponic systems.

anyways if you do make something be sure to share and ping me,id be very intrested as its something ive been looking into for quite some time

sponsoons

anyways if you do make something be sure to share and ping me,id be very intrested as its something ive been looking into for quite some time

Sure thing, I'll let you know if this leads anywhere.

Paul Mattinson

I'll look out for them. I have access to lots of shredded and cleaned PP in the view to making some tubes for hydroponic systems.

https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/pipe/

Joff Bullock

Pipe! - Dave Hakkens

Hi all! I’m an industrial designer from the UK, my final year project was to create pipe for third world settlements to use in pour flush latrines as they currently struggle to source - Dave Hakkens

1

6:04 PM

another thing that might work out for you

Carolina

does anyone here have experience using a pressure sensor for the extruder?

What pressure do you want to measure? Internal pressure?

blk.wth

What pressure do you want to measure? Internal pressure?

Yes! In order to know when a close mould is full

2:14 AM

plastic pellets from waste without shredding...

Carolina

does anyone here have experience using a pressure sensor for the extruder?

it was used in v4 design, and from what understand it was a very expensive item.

Carolina

Yes! In order to know when a close mould is full

We added vents to our moulds to see when they are full. This is the easiest option we found. https://youtu.be/gHWjnUlp5Qo

Teaching Woodwork

The Recycled Plastic Mallet Process

3

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

This looks so narly

Hi I’m selling a sheet press in Los Angeles (includes delivery) will be listing on the bazar if anyone’s interested- please DM me!

Hello Guys I'm making a reverse vending machine My shredder part is ready I have a touchscreen display Is there any way a Sensor can be connected to a touch screen display Its like when my bottle goes in to the crusher there will be a sensor which will start the shredder And when the shredder starts a reward will be dispense So my doubt is how will the reward machanism be triggered on the touchscreen display

Is there not a microcontroller running it all?

Nope all this is being run by a Timer Sensor Air break controller

12:15 PM

But now we need the reward dispensing mechanism

12:16 PM

When someone crushes the bottle a pop-up will be there which will dispense the reward

12:16 PM

i have the software ready

12:16 PM

But how will the machine know when to dispense the reward that's where we are stuck

just add something like one of those ir sensor circuits connected to a motor or solenoid

Jay Somani 01

Hello Guys I'm making a reverse vending machine My shredder part is ready I have a touchscreen display Is there any way a Sensor can be connected to a touch screen display Its like when my bottle goes in to the crusher there will be a sensor which will start the shredder And when the shredder starts a reward will be dispense So my doubt is how will the reward machanism be triggered on the touchscreen display

it should be very simple to do too,all it needs is an ir sensor/microswitch to detect the bottle falling and an transistor to trigger the motor/solenoid

12:35 PM

the circuit would be very similar to the ones used in diy sanitizer machines

12:36 PM

or if the transistor isnt enough add a relay (edited)

Hey @sponsoons thank you for the quick response But my question is a little differnt

12:40 PM

Can i personal text you @sponsoons

Jay Somani 01

Can i personal text you @sponsoons

sure

Hi, if I'm looking to make a simple stool, is it possible that it can be made with an injection machine? or does it have to be compression (for seat) and extrusion (for legs)?

kaesra

Hi, if I'm looking to make a simple stool, is it possible that it can be made with an injection machine? or does it have to be compression (for seat) and extrusion (for legs)?

while you could make it with a commercial injection molding machine,i doubt you could do it with the P.P injection since it cant inject much plastic and has much lower pressure

7:54 AM

so the simplest would be using a compression/sheetpress for the top and an extrusion for the legs

7:54 AM

unless you find a way to make the stool legs on the compression

7:55 AM

it should be possible but will need some exprimentation

7:57 AM

or another thing which would need experimentation but should work well would be making the whole stool using the extrusion as depending on the size of the stool it should be possible and would allow you to make stools much faster and easier

1

kaesra

Hi, if I'm looking to make a simple stool, is it possible that it can be made with an injection machine? or does it have to be compression (for seat) and extrusion (for legs)?

maximum we have managed to compression mold is 800 grams HDPE. With 6 tons of hydraulic force. We are estimating we would need somewhere above 20-30 tons clamp force to make a chair with reasonable quality, and we need a fast close time, so manual jack is not feasible.

@Butte (PP Philippines) have you guys tried one of those converted manual hydraulic jacks? something like this https://youtu.be/DDCIVGv14r8?t=179

Made in Poland

Electric 12V Hydraulic Car Jack

sponsoons

@Butte (PP Philippines) have you guys tried one of those converted manual hydraulic jacks? something like this https://youtu.be/DDCIVGv14r8?t=179

Would be interested to know if this works/ other alternatives

kaesra

Would be interested to know if this works/ other alternatives

for your purpose of making a stool it wouldnt as it would be too slow if you seek to make a good chair

8:48 AM

however the main question is how big do you want you stool to be

8:49 AM

depending on the dimensions and type of the stool you will have to choose you machine

sponsoons

depending on the dimensions and type of the stool you will have to choose you machine

maybe something like this https://www.ikea.com/th/en/p/kyrre-stool-birch-80420040/

KYRRE Stool, birch

KYRRE Stool, birch A steady stool always come to the rescue wherever you need it. This one offers a fresh, sophisticated look with a triangular-shaped seat and bent wood legs - and did you know a 3-legged stool won’t wobble? The v-shaped seat helps you to sit securely.

https://studioswine.com/work/sea-chair/

oliverwsmith

Sea Chair

Since the discovery of the Pacific Garbage Patch in 1997, which is predicted to measure twice the size of Texas, five more have been found across the world’s oceans with the Atlantic gyre predicted to be even larger. This plastic takes thousands of years to degrade, remaining in the environment to b

kaesra

maybe something like this https://www.ikea.com/th/en/p/kyrre-stool-birch-80420040/

what about this?the way the make it is extremely smiple but will take time and effort

9:28 AM

but it wont be hard to speed up and make the process easier using the injection/extrusion machine to melt and shape the plasstic

sponsoons

but it wont be hard to speed up and make the process easier using the injection/extrusion machine to melt and shape the plasstic

might be a good option for prototype, maybe we can get some ideas on how to improve the process from here, thanks!

I have seen those, however using air bags is less hassle and faster compression tine

how do i buy the tool?injection machine & smelter

9:29 AM

Plastic pelletizer is here

9:30 AM

Motor tomorrow

We shall see if it works as advertised

Cool!

12:18 PM

It works

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

damn that is nice,is there any way to make the strands shorter?

1:50 PM

and have you tried using the output of this machine on any other machines? (edited)

Adjust the cutoff knife

1:51 PM

Not yet.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Adjust the cutoff knife

ah ok

We just tried today

is it heated or jsut pressure?

Called it quits for today. 10 hours work and 32c

1:51 PM

Just pressure

Butte (PP Philippines)

Just pressure

nice

1:56 PM

looking forward to more info on this

4:29 AM

Fyi.. machine builders, about a year and half ago, i noticed our clients did not have proper outlet and wiring for their machines

4:33 AM

we have been supplying both the plug and outlet. As the cost to add the outlet and plug with the machine comes out to 13usd, it also encourages our buyers to use proper wiring with the machines.

4:33 AM

also our next build includes this

4:36 AM

we will be using a conventional circuit breaker box for the wiring and mini circuit breakers+ these meters. One meter per heat zone on the extrusion and one on the electric motor. Now we can monitor if the motor gets overloaded, and if any of the heat bands in each zone burn out, it will be obvious with a amperage drop on the meter during startup. Just like the pro machines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzntAcSFrIg The machine in action. Process needs refining as it will work for awhile and jam for no reason.

Precious Plastic Philippines

First Attempt To Pelletize Plastic

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzntAcSFrIg The machine in action. Process needs refining as it will work for awhile and jam for no reason.

have you tried it without shredding?

sponsoons

have you tried it without shredding?

not yet. Like I said, we was working in 32c heat, on a Saturday and this is as far as we got.

Hi, I’ve just joined the group i have a question and it would be my appreciated if you could help me with that , which is we made a melting machine but it doesn’t work i mean we set elements and add plastic , plastic was melted in the tube but it didn’t injected to the frame do you know what the problem is

1:20 PM

This is what we made

Did you first inject without mould? How does the temperature in the nozzle looks?

BitaBeinanadi

Click to see attachment 🖼️

this is muffler wrap, aka exhaust wrap. it is a basalt weave insulation. Works nice on extrusion and injection machines too. You ahould cover it with a metal heat shield also as it can be very irritating to the skin when touched.

Hi! I´ve been looking for the starter kit of the normal shrederer (plans, cad files, tutorial for assembling it...), do anyone know where I can find it? (not the shrederer pro, the starter shrederer), thank you so much!

https://youtu.be/yi1OKv-cShQ

Precious Plastic Philippines

Scrap insulation foam to plastic plellet

@Roman_Farca_85 https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Oh thanks a million, yes it seems that plastic freeze there because after work there were melted plastic there that stuck into that, temperature was high, you know it became smoked around the barrel . We will do the changes thanks a lot again

️

Hello!

Does anyone that have made a lid for their shredder (or anyone that knows about hinges) knows which one would be the best hinge to use to avoid this? (edited)

6:40 PM

we would like it to open more like this

@Carolina https://www.ganternorm.com/en/products/3.3-Hinging-latching-locking-of-doors-and-covers/Hinges-with-indexing-function/GN-122.1-Hinges-with-indexing-positions-Plastic

GN 122.1 (CFP.) Hinges with indexing positions, Plastic

Hinges GN 122.1 with indexing positions keep the door in the three specified positions without additional mechanism. In indexing position the loosenin

7:39 AM

Alternatively:

@Fritz @easymoulds nice! thats what i was looking for! thank you!

Hello!

I would like to ask if is it possible to coat parts of the extruder tube with a copper sheet to replace a few heating bands in order to save money. Thanks! (edited)

RatioTime

Hello!

I would like to ask if is it possible to coat parts of the extruder tube with a copper sheet to replace a few heating bands in order to save money. Thanks! (edited)

are you hoping that better thermal conduction will allow the barrel to stay at temperature with less heat bands?

Yes

although you'd be spreading the heat created across the barrel more efficiently, it is still using less power to heat the mass of the barrel, so I'm afraid that likely isn't going to help much. Maybe using ceramic insulation would help contain the heat more evenly, but you're likely best bet is to replace those heaters.

2

Thank you!!

Hello everybody! I show you some advances of our sheetpress. We include the cold press underneath to gain space and later to be able to heat it and have double production. the resulting sheet is 70x70cm. We place 8 flat resistors per side.

1

11:26 AM

At the moment we are redesigning the electrical circuit to be more efficient, when we have it I will share the results. Flat resistors work great. We are setting up the smoke aspiration and filtering system.

11:29 AM

The scores are very good! Thanks to the entire community for the great contributions, we are working hard to give something back to the community.

what's inefficient about the electrical circuit?

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQzGwF-nTd5/ You can find us on instagram as @necologica

Falcon

what's inefficient about the electrical circuit?

We have three-phase and the electrician who assembled the circuit connected it to single-phase. So it generates more expense and delivers less power. We are building a circuit in the resistors so that they deliver more power with less consumption. When we finish it (between today and tomorrow) I share more precise data.

1

can I get someone to make me extruder for floor tiles

10:33 AM

e mail =paninsunset@hotmail.com

sunset

can I get someone to make me extruder for floor tiles

Location? Might be a builder nearby

Hi! I return with the subject of the electrical circuit of the sheetpress. We cannot make it work well, we have the problem that a contactor, the one on the top plate, does not cut. Did someone design a different circuit for the sheetpress?

the relay doesn't trigger properly?

Falcon

the relay doesn't trigger properly?

there is something between the relay and the contactor that does not work, we change all the components and it does not want to work. The plate below works correctly with the same circuit.

you have a contactor for the sheet press?

we have the PID controllers and the relays

Falcon

you have a contactor for the sheet press?

8:59 PM

This is the circuit now, with the 32A circuit braker relay. 1 per sheet, there is something in the circuit that is not working for us, so I would like to know if someone did it differently to try

so you have one phase at the relays triggering three phase at the contactors

9:03 PM

hmm

9:03 PM

are you missing the neutral wire to the bottom right of the contactors?

9:04 PM

9:07 PM

I'm not too familiar with contactors but that's the main thing I notice

Falcon

are you missing the neutral wire to the bottom right of the contactors?

The truth is that I understand very little about electricity, this is beyond me. On Monday when the electrician comes to see the installation I mention this observation that you do

the drawings could come with a description tbh

from what I see, the bottom plate is connected differently from the one above. because? (sorry for so many questions!)

the two plates are connected differently so that the three phases are spread out

9:12 PM

two used on top, two on the bottom

9:12 PM

on ours, we have all three on the top and bottom so the load is more even but we have a much bigger machine and more heating elements

9:13 PM

we have six relays, one for each phase (edited)

9:15 PM

do bot the top and bottom not work?

9:15 PM

or only one?

Only one is not working, the top sheet that does not peel off once it reaches the desired temperature. Thanks for your explanations. On Monday we see him with the electrician and I make all these comments to him.

the electrician should definitely be able to test through it and find the problem if one is working and one not

By the way, I would love to see the circuit of your machine! just curious!

Does anyone know the exact size of the blades? I want to try and cut some out but I couldn’t find the blade profile

AJ J

Does anyone know the exact size of the blades? I want to try and cut some out but I couldn’t find the blade profile

Which shredder type?

https://youtu.be/R749CEBsFw8

Ruby Plastic Machinery

Agglomerator made by RUBY PLASTIC MACHINERY - Vadodara, Gujarat, India

5:40 AM

Anyone have idea how this works?

5:40 AM

It appears to work like a food processor

5:42 AM

Our pelletizer is making pellets but it needs some water to lube the plastic thru the die

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/R749CEBsFw8

its basically just a food processor except with a a piece of flat stock sharpened into a blade

8:57 AM

they're decently efficient especially for making plastic powder since the longer you leave the plastic in= finer plastic pieces

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJNgApGBDBA

METAL POWER

Plastic Bags || Waste Plastic Film Agglomerator Machine for PP/PE/...

9:09 AM

heres a video on making one

9:09 AM

the agglomeration happens due to the heat generated by the friction of plastic

9:10 AM

they sometimes have blunt baldes but others have sharpened adjustable blades

9:11 AM

theyre normally combined with a densifier/pellet extruder and used for making low grade plastic pellets and products

9:12 AM

some people appear to also use them as a plastic washer

9:12 AM

so they first friction wash the plastic and then the let the heat dry out the plastic

Unsure how it would work with my pellet mill or my foams. Some video appear to add water?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Unsure how it would work with my pellet mill or my foams. Some video appear to add water?

yes,but im unsure of the purpose

9:13 AM

id guess its to promote bonding of the plastic

Maybe or lube the plastic?

maybe

My next experiment will be a steam injection into my pellet mill

Butte (PP Philippines)

Unsure how it would work with my pellet mill or my foams. Some video appear to add water?

it might counter the purpose of the pellet mill as it would give you a similar output

I have to add water but maybe steam will work better

Butte (PP Philippines)

My next experiment will be a steam injection into my pellet mill

what would be the purpose of the steam?

As a measured amount of water going in and to raise the die temperature

9:16 AM

At the moment output of pellet is 75-85c

Butte (PP Philippines)

At the moment output of pellet is 75-85c

this is from friction heating only? or is there a heating element or heter band?

Too much water it comes out as a powder, too little, no lube and it sticks in the die

9:17 AM

Friction only

ah ok

Roller press thru tapered die

have you tried using unshredded plastic?

There is a sweet spot with the temp and water

9:18 AM

It will process some unshred but need a much bigger machine with bigger rollers

9:19 AM

There are commercial waste systems pelletizing this

ah ok

I envision pelletizing this fluf plastic without shredding

9:21 AM

As shredding leaves a product that does not flow well thru our machines

9:21 AM

Pellets are more consistent

ah ok

hello

anyone have details on the extruder nozzle fast release?

Tao

anyone have details on the extruder nozzle fast release?

This one?: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine

Has anyone been able to press plastic sheets of a larger thickness? I'm considering building a modified press to get sheets of around 40mm thick and 400mm x 600mm length and width. Would there be major issues with cooling the center?

Hey @ahadiguitars The PP Team actually made a 50mm thick, 1000x1000. For best results use PS as it doesnt shrink very much.

Hi! I would like to ask if anyone has a link for the extrusion workspace (non-pro/old ver.) download kit since the one in the website is already the extrusion pro version. Thanks!

Deleted User

Hi! I would like to ask if anyone has a link for the extrusion workspace (non-pro/old ver.) download kit since the one in the website is already the extrusion pro version. Thanks!

Workspaces started with V4. But the blueprints for the old basic extrusion are in the complete download kit. Here is academy page for the old extrusion: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion Make sure to use a compression screw and not a wood auger if you want to extrude bigger things...

1

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Workspaces started with V4. But the blueprints for the old basic extrusion are in the complete download kit. Here is academy page for the old extrusion: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion Make sure to use a compression screw and not a wood auger if you want to extrude bigger things...

Thanks!!

2

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

This one?: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-for-the-extrusion-machine

Thanks a lot!!!

1

I'm trying to hook up my shredder motor, it's a 1 phase 230v with start and running capacitors and some existing wiring present. I'm trying to figure out where I can connect a 'left, off, right' power switch.

11:07 AM

Does anyone know how I can do that?

tomvb

Does anyone know how I can do that?

My electrician drew this wiring diagram for this for/off/rev arrangement. (edited)

12:40 AM

hello do anyone have any very simple schematic to how to connect more heating element with the ceramic terminal?

blk.wth

My electrician drew this wiring diagram for this for/off/rev arrangement. (edited)

Thanks!

Hi all, does anyone have any contacts for mouldmakers in the UK they can recommend? Looking for a 2 part aluminium mould for a simple form, which has some organic curves, so someone with a decent CNC setup.

@tomvb Hi Tomvb, Did the diagram answer your questions? Might have other information.

Selling a hugely discounted sheet press in Los Angeles please contact me ASAP if interested

Paulum

@tomvb Hi Tomvb, Did the diagram answer your questions? Might have other information.

More info would be great!

https://youtu.be/DQEkqVo_Yhg

Precious Plastic Philippines

Making plastic pellets from food waste packaging.

tomvb

I'm trying to hook up my shredder motor, it's a 1 phase 230v with start and running capacitors and some existing wiring present. I'm trying to figure out where I can connect a 'left, off, right' power switch.

We did it, center position of that switch will make motor buzz

would it be possible to use a scissor jack for the cold press?

@tomvb Hi Tom, After studying his diagram it will work. What does the inside of your switch look like? Have some things to do today. Will try to get everything together this evening. Paul

@Butte (PP Philippines)

3:18 AM

@sponsoons

Yogesh Tatyaram mengade

@sponsoons

?

7:11 AM

Lpg tank fittings can be used as injection mold nozzles

7:15 AM

On my single phase motors this is essentially what i used to reverse

7:16 AM

It was hard at first because the diagram i had showed both ac in wires moving

7:17 AM

But in reality, since ac has no polarity, im just switching between the two capacitor.

7:19 AM

However that said. With the extra wiring headaches for v3 shredder, it is far simpler to disassemble a hoist motor and use that. Wiring and switches already complete. And cost difference was not enpugh savings

Hi guys! Good day! Where can I find a blueprint and cad of the extrusion pro? Thanks!

ice°

Hi guys! Good day! Where can I find a blueprint and cad of the extrusion pro? Thanks!

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Thank you sir Thomas! Im Noriel by the way from the Philippines, hope to make change and help recycle the plastic problem here, thank you for inspiring us all.

2700$ GIG JOB for students, engineers - 3D MECHANICAL DESIGN - Join the project and ask to be guided to these tasks. Lots of other opportunities after. https://www.sensorica.co/ventures/food-and-agriculture/greens-for-good

peer into the future - Greens for Good

Papers Plant Protein Extractor – an Open Source High Impact Solution Next generation food machines and how Sensorica approaches food crisis

Only open source tools?

Hi friends, I am trying to build a sheetpress based off the designs here https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpress I had a couple of questions on the designs. 1) Why is it the recommended pressure 8 tons? It seems like 8 tons of pressure would be more than what the recommended die spring can handle. Would we be able to use a 5 ton hydraulic jack instead? 2) The recommended opening size is 12 inches. What would be the down side of decreasing the opening to 8 or even 6 inches? Let me know if there is a better channel to ask these questions! Any help at all is much appreciated!

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sb2dsPlksRw this is interesting.

South China Morning Post

German start-up builds houses with reusable Lego-style bricks

stargazer

Hi friends, I am trying to build a sheetpress based off the designs here https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpress I had a couple of questions on the designs. 1) Why is it the recommended pressure 8 tons? It seems like 8 tons of pressure would be more than what the recommended die spring can handle. Would we be able to use a 5 ton hydraulic jack instead? 2) The recommended opening size is 12 inches. What would be the down side of decreasing the opening to 8 or even 6 inches? Let me know if there is a better channel to ask these questions! Any help at all is much appreciated!

we did 10 tons, but 10 is a lot, we still had flexing when too much pressure applied. Also we omitted the spring and the opening is smaller, we were unable to purchase the long travel jack locally in the required tonnage.

also the sheet press took 2 men 6 weeks building full time. it was a lot longer than expected.

Butte (PP Philippines)

we did 10 tons, but 10 is a lot, we still had flexing when too much pressure applied. Also we omitted the spring and the opening is smaller, we were unable to purchase the long travel jack locally in the required tonnage.

What do you mean by flexing? Does the sheet have more curvature with increased pressure? Could this be mitigated with better force distribution? Have you see any issues with omitting the springs? Their supposed to help unify the force right? And wow thats a lot more time than I was expecting... Thanks for sharing your experiences :-)

if you over press it, the plate will not remain flat and you will find the center of the sheet to be as example, 2mm and edges to be 4mm over 1200x1200 mm

5:48 AM

especially when you approach 10 tons which is the weight of several cars.

industrial compression molding machines do 200 tons

6:45 AM

or more

6:45 AM

but also heftier molds

Falcon

industrial compression molding machines do 200 tons

that is all well, but those also cost more than a new car.

I have to say that with our oversized press, we need more pressure than I'm comfortable putting on the machine (edited)

12:23 PM

our cold press keeps releasing pressure? thonk2

12:23 PM

release valve is closed (edited)

The screw valve not closed tight

this is over hours

Need to really tighten it

maybe tens of minutes

Ours did same at first

it's as tight as we do on the hot press (edited)

U can check the o ring by unscrew the valve

12:25 PM

May just bad o ring. Auto supply or online

also, is there something we're doing wrong with HDPE? It acts like epoxy JUSTLOL

12:35 PM

just glues our molds together

12:35 PM

we're using some non-silicone oil

12:35 PM

idk if that would be the issue (edited)

Hi Precious community. Hope I am in the right #. My name is Ante (new guy) and what I have here is a (sailing) board game in final phase of development. I am interested in using precious plastic instead of standard due to marble effect (amazingBTW) and would like to partner with the community members who have done similar or have similar interests (#board game dev, #scaleproduction). If not, still much love and peace from warm and sunny Croatia!

9

2

1

2

1

hello I am looking for a person who could make me mold of flower pot for the injection thank you

SeaMe

Hi Precious community. Hope I am in the right #. My name is Ante (new guy) and what I have here is a (sailing) board game in final phase of development. I am interested in using precious plastic instead of standard due to marble effect (amazingBTW) and would like to partner with the community members who have done similar or have similar interests (#board game dev, #scaleproduction). If not, still much love and peace from warm and sunny Croatia!

Hi! Board games are really fun to design for. I'd be interested and the folks at Precious Plastic Cincy would likely be compelled as well, I know they're working with relatable topics and materials.

@CitSciWorkshop please think about it. I am willing to team up or fund development.

SeaMe

@CitSciWorkshop please think about it. I am willing to team up or fund development.

I'll dm you, sounds fun!

How many people have been using VFD’s with there shredder? Seems like the most reasonable solution as you don’t need complicated wiring for reversing contractors and can use a 3 phase motor when only single phase power is available.

Nacnud

How many people have been using VFD’s with there shredder? Seems like the most reasonable solution as you don’t need complicated wiring for reversing contractors and can use a 3 phase motor when only single phase power is available.

Yes it's very helpful especially in the US.

stargazer

Hi friends, I am trying to build a sheetpress based off the designs here https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/sheetpress I had a couple of questions on the designs. 1) Why is it the recommended pressure 8 tons? It seems like 8 tons of pressure would be more than what the recommended die spring can handle. Would we be able to use a 5 ton hydraulic jack instead? 2) The recommended opening size is 12 inches. What would be the down side of decreasing the opening to 8 or even 6 inches? Let me know if there is a better channel to ask these questions! Any help at all is much appreciated!

1) The 8 ton long ram jacks were chosen because they're pretty easy to find and are normally pretty robust. If you pay attention to the spring assembly - you’ll notice that once the spring reaches its recommended deflection, the load is then transferred via the jack ram to the spring rod directly (sharing the load). This gives you a little ‘pressure boost’ that is useful for the final press before removing the sheet. Best not to omit the spring as you’ll lose all your pressure as soon as the plastic flows a bit (so you’ll need to repress all the time). 2) You can decrease the opening but the 300mm is a comfortable working distance considering both plates are really hot. We’ve also used all of that distance for making a 50mm sheet. If you go for a smaller opening, you’ll decrease your max sheet thickness.

Falcon

also, is there something we're doing wrong with HDPE? It acts like epoxy JUSTLOL

We have seen several examples of HDPE NOT working well. I would recommend against using it. And focusing on PP / PS . Bottlecaps works ok but still not great results

1

Hello guys, We are BE mechanical students and we have made a plastic recycling machine, I would like to share a video and also I am looking forward to your guys opinions where we are taking pre orders of plastic recycling machine having a shredder and extruder. If you want to know more details you can mail me shreyas.ektate@gmail.com

12:00 PM

sry guys I couldnt share the video this is our machine which we made and futher modifications are welcomed according to demands placed I am sharing the photo

@shreyas70 Hey! can you share more details of your machines.

michael_makes_

1) The 8 ton long ram jacks were chosen because they're pretty easy to find and are normally pretty robust. If you pay attention to the spring assembly - you’ll notice that once the spring reaches its recommended deflection, the load is then transferred via the jack ram to the spring rod directly (sharing the load). This gives you a little ‘pressure boost’ that is useful for the final press before removing the sheet. Best not to omit the spring as you’ll lose all your pressure as soon as the plastic flows a bit (so you’ll need to repress all the time). 2) You can decrease the opening but the 300mm is a comfortable working distance considering both plates are really hot. We’ve also used all of that distance for making a 50mm sheet. If you go for a smaller opening, you’ll decrease your max sheet thickness.

Thanks Michael this is very useful! I wasnt able to find the 8 ton nearby in Canada, would there be any issues with a 5 ton?

Abhishek1912

@shreyas70 Hey! can you share more details of your machines.

sure! Our machine has shredder which is single shaft shredder, The motor is 1 hp and has worm worm wheel gearbox with gear ratio of 1:30 speed reduction. One plastic bottle shreds in 35-45 seconds and the output ranges from 4 to 5 kg/hr. The extruder works on the temperature of 150 deg C where screw has l/d ratio of 20:1, hdpe bottles are extruded easily, Cooling options are preferred for uniform thickness from plastic melting in the extruder. If you want to reach out to me you can mail me shreyas.ektate@gmail.com

5:52 PM

The machine is suitable for all domestic wastes available at your home

shreyas70

sure! Our machine has shredder which is single shaft shredder, The motor is 1 hp and has worm worm wheel gearbox with gear ratio of 1:30 speed reduction. One plastic bottle shreds in 35-45 seconds and the output ranges from 4 to 5 kg/hr. The extruder works on the temperature of 150 deg C where screw has l/d ratio of 20:1, hdpe bottles are extruded easily, Cooling options are preferred for uniform thickness from plastic melting in the extruder. If you want to reach out to me you can mail me shreyas.ektate@gmail.com

Nice. How did PET perform and what did you extrude with it ?

For PET, The shredder shreds plastic finely, but for extrusion Its better to shred it multiple times, you can use mesh for it of 5 or 8mm generally 8mm is available in market. For extrusion, The temperature requirement is 250 deg C, We have extruded it once but for extrusion HDPE plastic extrudes at 150 deg C and I can show a photo as well of HDPE extrusion

@Joseph is it just more sticky and doesn't disconnect itself through shrinking?

Yes sticky and doesn't fill the mould as easily

@Joseph have you polished the molds as well?

1:45 PM

they injection mold hdpe somehow

1:45 PM

so it must be possible

Is plasma cnc cutting tolerances good enough to have the shredder parts cut? Or is a laser cnc required?

Nacnud

Is plasma cnc cutting tolerances good enough to have the shredder parts cut? Or is a laser cnc required?

I'm not sure that plasma can maintain the tolerances needed to make an effective machine. CNC milling or laser is the way to go. (edited)

stargazer

Thanks Michael this is very useful! I wasnt able to find the 8 ton nearby in Canada, would there be any issues with a 5 ton?

5 ton should be fine. Biggest thing is just the quality of the jack as leaks can be annoying with cheaper ones.

1

Falcon

also, is there something we're doing wrong with HDPE? It acts like epoxy JUSTLOL

You may be running too hot, try playing around with your temp settings. I’ve had good success around 130-140 degrees with HDPE and LDPE

interesting, significantly cooler than what we see elsewhere

Hey all!!

Read up the chain but couldn’t find anything close to my topic so here goes. Any good tips for cleaning inside the injection machine?

Hello Guys, i'm ABEL from Ethiopia. I have developed a design that can produce 2 type of product in one. The only thing is i used a hand drawing, not any kind of software like SolidWorks. Can anyone help me

marty

Hi all, does anyone have any contacts for mouldmakers in the UK they can recommend? Looking for a 2 part aluminium mould for a simple form, which has some organic curves, so someone with a decent CNC setup.

can help if you’re still looking

A New Design concept i created to produce a large HDPE board AND Flowerpot by compression machine. WILL IT WORK. PLEASE LET ME KNOW.

Hello PP community. Advice needed. I would like to manufacture shredderPRO laser cut, but im missing number of laser cuts, for each part. Any thoughts ? thanks

I know, that part should be 4mm, but i dont know how many of them should be made. If there is some bill of materials where is written, that would be very helpful. Or maybe its already in name of parts ? (edited)

@Martin PP Slovakia on the 2D blueprints folder, you should see some documents which end with assembly, for example SHRPRO-V1 1120.00-A Shaft 1 assembly.pdf (edited)

3:47 PM

3:52 PM

since the BOM excel document just references laser cut parts as "all", you might need to manually write down all needed : "SHRPRO-V1 1000.00-A Shredder V4 Assembly.pdf" --> "SHRPRO-V1 1100.00-A Box assembly.pdf" -> "SHRPRO-V1 1120.00-A Shaft 1 assembly.pdf" etc..

5:37 AM

5:38 AM

5:45 AM

Thank you again everyone for your help on my previous question. I have gotten farther with wiring up my injection molding machine. I have came into an error code on the PID temperature controller reading "ooo" which means that either: the input wiring is incorrect, polarity line, or incorrect setting (set too high). I am still trying to understand these error codes, and was curious if anyone has came into a similar issue when they built there injection molding machine? I am still learning how to wire up everything I drew up a diagram that represents roughly how I went about wiring the machine. Maybe someone could see were I may have made a mistake or could point me in the right direction? Any insight helps thank you for your time:)

Maker

Thank you again everyone for your help on my previous question. I have gotten farther with wiring up my injection molding machine. I have came into an error code on the PID temperature controller reading "ooo" which means that either: the input wiring is incorrect, polarity line, or incorrect setting (set too high). I am still trying to understand these error codes, and was curious if anyone has came into a similar issue when they built there injection molding machine? I am still learning how to wire up everything I drew up a diagram that represents roughly how I went about wiring the machine. Maybe someone could see were I may have made a mistake or could point me in the right direction? Any insight helps thank you for your time:)

did you check your thermocouple? it could be that its not reading properly

Nick - PP France

Click to see attachment 🖼️

I found the mistake. In shredderPRO workspace, QTY of laser cut pieces is not mentioned in the name of the part, in DXF format. However in "DOWNLOAD KIT V4" its nicely written in part name, also QTY. Problem solved

Carolina

did you check your thermocouple? it could be that its not reading properly

I will look into that later. Would I use a digital multimeter to test it? or is there a different device to check if the Thermocouple K Type is malfunctioning? Thanks!

A multimeter will work. Some VOM also have a thermocouple input often for a type K. Looking for voltage increase as it gets warmer. Hand heat may be enough or use a cigarette lighter. Check on the polarity of the leads. You can also find color code tables for thermocouples on line though probably not needed.I am thinking you might have reverse polarity on the connection to pid. Type K can go to around 1000°C so the cigarette lighter should not harm it. The insulation on the wires are your limits on heat. Keep it cool just to show function and polarity.

Hook up thermocouple red to terminal 8, other wire to terminal 9. Just took the time to look up manual

1

4:27 AM

You are connected to 9 and 10

4:55 AM

Furthermore ^^^

hello folks, i have built an industrial grade extrusion machine. Unfortunately i don't have the time and space to produce stuff with it. I know this is not the right place for this, but that is where my question is about. Where is the right place to find a new owner for the machine? (edited)

Hi everyone. Malaysian here. I'm trying to get into repurposing plastic waste. Is there a forum section for complete newbies? I currently want to build a shredder, probably a human powered one. I looked up and there's a V3 Basic but I want to build a Shredder Pro because I kinda want to do it one time. I have downloaded the Shredder Pro files, and I see the folders (3D Cad, Laser Cut files, 2D blueprints) etc, although I am not quite sure which folder do I need. From what I see, I think I need the dxf files from the Laser Cut Files to build the shredder, but it's further split into hardox 4mm, 6mm, and steel various mms. I saw the BoM but they are about commercial stuff I'd want to buy if I want to use a motor on it (which I can't, because my home electricity is 220V so my only option is human powered). I'd appreciate it if someone can suggest to me (or point me where I can find the information) which files do I need to build the 2-axle shredder, human powered, and how many of each component (file) do I need? I'd like to try to ask for a quote from local laser cutting workshops and attempt to build the shredder myself. I've built an extruder before (filastruder) but I imagine the shredder requires a bit more skill than that. Thank you in advance, keep up the great work. Look forward to join this wonderful community.

EMAT

hello folks, i have built an industrial grade extrusion machine. Unfortunately i don't have the time and space to produce stuff with it. I know this is not the right place for this, but that is where my question is about. Where is the right place to find a new owner for the machine? (edited)

The bazar on the precious plastics website, or ebay is a good place to start

masCh KisieL

Hi everyone. Malaysian here. I'm trying to get into repurposing plastic waste. Is there a forum section for complete newbies? I currently want to build a shredder, probably a human powered one. I looked up and there's a V3 Basic but I want to build a Shredder Pro because I kinda want to do it one time. I have downloaded the Shredder Pro files, and I see the folders (3D Cad, Laser Cut files, 2D blueprints) etc, although I am not quite sure which folder do I need. From what I see, I think I need the dxf files from the Laser Cut Files to build the shredder, but it's further split into hardox 4mm, 6mm, and steel various mms. I saw the BoM but they are about commercial stuff I'd want to buy if I want to use a motor on it (which I can't, because my home electricity is 220V so my only option is human powered). I'd appreciate it if someone can suggest to me (or point me where I can find the information) which files do I need to build the 2-axle shredder, human powered, and how many of each component (file) do I need? I'd like to try to ask for a quote from local laser cutting workshops and attempt to build the shredder myself. I've built an extruder before (filastruder) but I imagine the shredder requires a bit more skill than that. Thank you in advance, keep up the great work. Look forward to join this wonderful community.

The files have the number of parts required in the file name nx, where n is = to the number of that part required to print. The thickness of metal for each is as you said labelled in the folder they are in. Secondly 220v can power a motor, electric motors come in all different configurations. Making it man powered is not hard either, look at a bike for inspiration, if you can couple the shaft with a gear that fits the bike chain your good too go.

GilPPPR

Hey all!!

Read up the chain but couldn’t find anything close to my topic so here goes. Any good tips for cleaning inside the injection machine?

Might I suggest to use some hdpe and run it through without a extruder and and at slightly lower then typical temp so it becomes more “blobby” and pushes all the dirt and residue out.

hi everyone I have recently tested the heating system form a new extruder and 1 of the PID controller goes like this everytime when it get in to the temperature set. Does anyone know why it happen ? I have even check the manual and didn't found anything about it

Nacnud

The bazar on the precious plastics website, or ebay is a good place to start

is the bazar also for 1 time sells, and how can i place an advertise at the bazar?

Nacnud

The files have the number of parts required in the file name nx, where n is = to the number of that part required to print. The thickness of metal for each is as you said labelled in the folder they are in. Secondly 220v can power a motor, electric motors come in all different configurations. Making it man powered is not hard either, look at a bike for inspiration, if you can couple the shaft with a gear that fits the bike chain your good too go.

Thank you! And as far as my other question is concerned, is this the proper place to ask my questions as such?

Agnatt

hi everyone I have recently tested the heating system form a new extruder and 1 of the PID controller goes like this everytime when it get in to the temperature set. Does anyone know why it happen ? I have even check the manual and didn't found anything about it

Do you mean the pid on the bottom left? To be honest the pic is blurry I can't read its readings

Nacnud

The files have the number of parts required in the file name nx, where n is = to the number of that part required to print. The thickness of metal for each is as you said labelled in the folder they are in. Secondly 220v can power a motor, electric motors come in all different configurations. Making it man powered is not hard either, look at a bike for inspiration, if you can couple the shaft with a gear that fits the bike chain your good too go.

Hi, I've just had a look. I don't see the nX identifier in the file names as you said. For example this is the 6mm Hardox folder

1:18 PM

the extruder i built

masCh KisieL

Hi, I've just had a look. I don't see the nX identifier in the file names as you said. For example this is the 6mm Hardox folder

Hey so i seen in the full download kit they do have them have you tried the full precious plastic download kit? Sorry about that

EMAT

Click to see attachment 🖼️

awesome what barrel heaters are you using?

EMAT

is the bazar also for 1 time sells, and how can i place an advertise at the bazar?

i believe it can be one time sells, honestly i have not posted, check out the website im sure there is info

Nacnud

Hey so i seen in the full download kit they do have them have you tried the full precious plastic download kit? Sorry about that

Hi, is the full download kit from this link? The one that I showed you is from this link for the Shredder Workspace, this is the one without build quantities https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Poised2Pogo

Ok back in the shop: Just checked all the heaters and they are definitely working, also barrel looks straight as far as I can tell. Here is a shot of how the heaters are spaced

What temp do you use? We had an intern almost ruin our extruder when trying to run it at too low a temp. Pushed the barrel right off hte front of the machine and bend part of the frame. I always run it now around 200C.

masCh KisieL

Hi, is the full download kit from this link? The one that I showed you is from this link for the Shredder Workspace, this is the one without build quantities https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

The zip file in this link contains everything, not just the Shredder Pro. It even has Shredder Basic in another folder. But yeah, the Shredder Pro folder doesn't contain quantities in the folder, it has them in the 2D pdf folder. Got that all sorted now.

11:43 AM

Although I can't seem to locate a good motor for the shredder. I found some new ones rated at 220V "hoist/crane/winch motor", do you think if the hoist lifts 300 kg is enough? Or 500 kg? It doesn't say its torque.

masCh KisieL

Although I can't seem to locate a good motor for the shredder. I found some new ones rated at 220V "hoist/crane/winch motor", do you think if the hoist lifts 300 kg is enough? Or 500 kg? It doesn't say its torque.

Should be a build plate on the motor specifying power (W) and rpm etc. Quick search online shows a .63kW motor. Torque you can calculate online once you know the power and RPM

Hi, is there a way to determine RPM from this plate?

@masCh KisieLNope, but we can see that this motor will need 8 minutes to cool down after 2 minutes of turning. Not really ideal for a shredder, except if you add fans to cool down the motor. But you will still have a motor which is not done for working permanently.

sonik

@masCh KisieLNope, but we can see that this motor will need 8 minutes to cool down after 2 minutes of turning. Not really ideal for a shredder, except if you add fans to cool down the motor. But you will still have a motor which is not done for working permanently.

Thanks for the reply. Glad I asked. Not sure what your last sentence means but I think you're not recommending this motor

Hello! I would like to know how much will cost those 3 machines to set up a mobile container which will tell young students in Poland how to recycle plastic. I would like about prices for: 1) Shredder for cutting plastic waste - weight around 400 kilos, dimension: 1205x550x1512 mm, blades 6 mm, electricity 380V/16AMP/3KW 2) Hydraulic press (for producing 1x1 m sheet) - Weight up to: 400 KG, Dimensions: 1620 X 1620 X 1780 MM, Pressure: 10 kPa, Electricity: 400V / 32AMP / 1.5 kW 3) Extruder Single screw, Weight: 110 KG, Dimensions: 1500 x 600 x 1550 MM, Electricity: 400 V / 16AMP / 5 kW two interchangeable tips

Disconnect Plug on the Barrel Precious Plastic Canada Extruder

1:10 AM

Its Alive!

Nacnud

How many people have been using VFD’s with there shredder? Seems like the most reasonable solution as you don’t need complicated wiring for reversing contractors and can use a 3 phase motor when only single phase power is available.

Exactly right, that is what we do as well for Canada. This is the Extruder. (edited)

Hi, i was planning to build a shredder a few years ago but i don't have the time. And all the materiaal to build one. I have a big 3f motor of 3kw with 740Nm with 1400/90rpm. If someone is interested into Building one i have one for sale

5:00 AM

5:01 AM

https://youtube.com/shorts/PFLOD9Fb1_w?feature=share

Precious Plastic Philippines

Making Precious Plastic Machines

6:48 AM

Got another plasma torch for the shop.

6:48 AM

We have a CNC plasma table, but it keeps crashing the arduino controller and we have not been able to get it to work properly.

Nice

Hi. Which is in your opinion the proper torque for a basic precious plastic shredder, used for PE, PET, PP, PLA?

Nacnud

awesome what barrel heaters are you using?

the barrel heaters are 2.2kW band heaters from engel

Is it reasonable to machine an injection mold on a router meant for wood? assuming very light load

With the right tool should it be possible to cnc aluminium. You could test is

I've done alu on my home built machine but idk about doing steel

3:11 PM

I'm thinking like 1mm in steel

Hi, I apologise if I'm missing something, but this references a tool list in the downloads, but I have yet to find one. Could someone point me in the right direction?

Has anyone built a shredder with variable speeds to shred cardboard as well as plastic? setting up through the community garden and a 2 in 1 would make much more sense for us

Hi all! I'm new here and about building my project. I have some trouble opening the CAD files of the extruder and the shredder as I am using SW 2016. Does someone have any solution for me? I would need to be able to modify and measure some parts. Thanks a lot for the great package btw!!

Hi, We at Precious Plastic Philippines are working on a update to the injection mold machine.

4:50 AM

We have changed the frame to reduce flex, and added in a plunger that allows the barrel to press down into the mold instead of the screw in method. This is similar to the commercial hand operated machines, but with the precious plastic special sauce.

4:51 AM

also we have designed a 3d printed case for the electronics that is compatible with the standard rex100 digital temp controller and SSR

4:52 AM

pics coming soon as the parts arrive back from machining and assembly. Hopefully this week, but can not promise exact as we are currently experiencing some monsoon weather, that is slowing production.

Hi all! I'm new here and trying to build my project .I have an issue that,I can't afford shredder blades so, can I use bicycle chain sprocket instead of shredder blades

7:49 AM

Can you help me in this case

no, bike sprocket will not work

maheshshanbhag

Hi all! I'm new here and trying to build my project .I have an issue that,I can't afford shredder blades so, can I use bicycle chain sprocket instead of shredder blades

if you cant afford shredder blades/a shredder,try using a mixer-grinder or a food processor as they are quite cheap and can often be found second-hand or in scrap for very cheap

7:58 AM

but remember that this will work best for small quantities of plasic

7:59 AM

and wont be very useful for large amounts of plastics

8:00 AM

however you can use a mixer/food possessor to also clean and wash the plastic by simply adding water and soapp after cutting the plastic

I really appreciate your help.thank you

KomPa2s

Hi all! I'm new here and about building my project. I have some trouble opening the CAD files of the extruder and the shredder as I am using SW 2016. Does someone have any solution for me? I would need to be able to modify and measure some parts. Thanks a lot for the great package btw!!

the v3 shredder will handle cardboard when the screen is removed as is. it will also shred paper.

KomPa2s

Hi all! I'm new here and about building my project. I have some trouble opening the CAD files of the extruder and the shredder as I am using SW 2016. Does someone have any solution for me? I would need to be able to modify and measure some parts. Thanks a lot for the great package btw!!

you tried opening the step files? ave not used SW but It opens in SpaceClaim, DesignSpark Mechanical and ASYS CAD okay.. maybe a import issue?

Butte (PP Philippines)

you tried opening the step files? ave not used SW but It opens in SpaceClaim, DesignSpark Mechanical and ASYS CAD okay.. maybe a import issue?

@Butte Thanks for the tips! I could open the step files. My computer was not powerfully enough

4:38 AM

Another question: I would need to get small flakes (acc to Precious Plastic scale) in order to use it for the extruder. I am checking the basic and pro shredder. I am not sure I would manage it for HDPE, PET nor PP. Does anyone have some advise, experience, suggestion, solution? Thanks in advance.

KomPa2s

Another question: I would need to get small flakes (acc to Precious Plastic scale) in order to use it for the extruder. I am checking the basic and pro shredder. I am not sure I would manage it for HDPE, PET nor PP. Does anyone have some advise, experience, suggestion, solution? Thanks in advance.

the flake size depends on the screen size. We use 1/4 inch-6mm for the precious plastic molding uses. For our municipal shredder buyers who use our shredders to reduce the bulk of plastic waste before disposal or use in asphalt, we supply screens 12-18mm hole size.

Butte (PP Philippines)

the flake size depends on the screen size. We use 1/4 inch-6mm for the precious plastic molding uses. For our municipal shredder buyers who use our shredders to reduce the bulk of plastic waste before disposal or use in asphalt, we supply screens 12-18mm hole size.

Many thanks for your reply!

Hi all, is this the kind of gearbox that is used for most pictures of Precious Plastic shredders? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952686448.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2da045e61gbcLZ&algo_pvid=7206bbbe-54ed-4d3d-8dd3-559acaa24344&aem_p4p_detail=202107270042108610913135840420003813769&algo_exp_id=7206bbbe-54ed-4d3d-8dd3-559acaa24344-2

32.86US $ 38% OFF|NMRV040 rv040 86mm Worm gear reducer Reduction ra...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

9:47 AM

Like example in the Precious PLastic kit shows this gearbox

no idea the actual size of the unit you linked to

9:48 AM

we have used a different 90 degree gearbox in the past.

the dimensions are shown here

Butte (PP Philippines)

we have used a different 90 degree gearbox in the past.

Can you share some gearboxes I could buy online?

9:49 AM

I don't have a motor yet, the gearbox seems harder to find

9:50 AM

this is the type we have used in the past

oh, but the motor won't be vertical right?

no

ok, im trying to build a vertical one to save space to put in my apartment

9:51 AM

i just finished this shredder about a hour ago

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

that has a gearbox?

yes

9:51 AM

it is a 1800 watt hoist motor

ahh.. those supposedly run for 8 mins every 10 min right?

no

9:52 AM

it is about 50 rpm

masCh KisieL

Hi, is there a way to determine RPM from this plate?

I've kind of asked about using a hoist motor here a few days ago and it was determined that it is not recommended

duty cycle really depends on what you are feeding in it

9:53 AM

the smaller hoist motor under 1800 watts is not so good. I built 3 before changing to the bigger motor

9:54 AM

i have the same motor in my log splitter powered compression molder.

Ok, so you do recommend an 1.8kW hoist motor? I could get that actually

it runs a heavy duty cycle, but I added a auxilliary fan on it

9:54 AM

to increase the duty cycle you can add on a extra fan

Thanks. But I don't even know where to place the fan

the black plastic cover on the end

9:55 AM

there is a fan there

What plastic things can't you shred with the 1.8 kW hoist motor

i added a second fan on top of that fan

Butte (PP Philippines)

i added a second fan on top of that fan

cool thanks

i dont reccommend pet soda bottles

9:56 AM

it can, but its hard on the machine

oh, that's what I wanted to shred..

pet soda bottles you need a different machine

oh no

something we are working on, but in the list of things to do it is a bit low priority

yeah PET is one of the most dense polymers out of the "big 6"

yes

you would need a huge torque (= big motor ^^)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp-wKCRn0GI&t=4s

Andrey Kolev

THE BEST CRUSHER FOR PET BOTTLE

so the limitation is the motor not the shredder machine?

here is a good example of a PET shredder

motor for sure, but the strain on the V3 shredder is real with PET, i would say V4 is definitely much more adapted for that job (in the PP machines)

9:59 AM

+ recycling PET is quite a hassle, you need very precise processes for it to not degrade

unfortunately PET plastic you need some serious power

10:00 AM

even the shredder we designed in our shop can struggle with PET

Where can I see the V4 shredder? All I see is Shredder Basic and Shredder Pro. I thinK Shredder basic is v2.1?

schredder basic = V3, pro =V4

Shredder pro is the v4 shredder

ahh

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

That looks like the same hoist motor?

not even close

it is a 5hp motor like used in pumps

ok, so its established I have no clue what motors are what

weighs close to 100 kilo

wow ok

@masCh KisieL check out somes docs on the world wide web about "thermal degradation" and "hydro degradation" of PET if ever recycling PET is what you aim for

Nick - PP France

@masCh KisieL check out somes docs on the world wide web about "thermal degradation" and "hydro degradation" of PET if ever recycling PET is what you aim for

ok thanks

+ understanding the industrial way of recycling PET helps understanding the different "prroblematics"

so basically leave it to the industry to recycle PET bottles..

10:04 AM

not for individuals

PET is one of the better recycled waste fractions

Andrey Kolev, on YT has some good PET recycling setups but his machines start around 50k euro

in europe at least

but in reality PET is in demand by scrap buyers,

10:06 AM

even HDPE is in heavy deman.

masCh KisieL

so basically leave it to the industry to recycle PET bottles..

yeah as @Falcon mentionned, PET is kindof the only plastic which is "well" recycled by the industries ^^

the hard to recycle factions like plastic films, LDPE, bags things like that so far do not have a well established industrial recycling setup

what are plastic bags made off? the ones you put fruit and veges in?

Even when you shred them down, you get a light fluff that is not very usable unless you also pelletize it

10:08 AM

bags can be so many things. sometimes HDPE, LDPE, Sometimes they mix starch in the LDPE to make it sort of degradable

evil @masCh KisieL

damnit

masCh KisieL

what are plastic bags made off? the ones you put fruit and veges in?

hmmm it can be LDPE, "biodegradable" (careful with that term) PLA

10:09 AM

knowing what polymer it is, is key to a good recycling x)

"industrially biodegradable"

Falcon

"industrially biodegradable"

i'd rather call it biofragmentation ^^

You can mix the plastics together, but it takes some artistry

That's why I thought soda bottles would be best because we kind of know they're going to be PET

https://youtu.be/uD-3r1L91jM

Precious Plastic Philippines

Plastic Sachet Extrusion

Butte (PP Philippines)

You can mix the plastics together, but it takes some artistry

i would personnally not recommend that though...

so bottles are out, plastic bags are out..

what's left

this is mixed film plastic

10:11 AM

We have had success making plastic beams out of mixed plastics

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/uD-3r1L91jM

was that extruded?

yes

10:12 AM

but it was not easy

then pressure compressed?

no

<3

it was shredded in the high speed shredder, and we used a 3hp shop dust collector

10:13 AM

@Nick - PP France we used plastic mixed films that were destined to the landfill as there is currently no way to recycle it

10:13 AM

after shredding we tried to extrude it in a v3 extrusion machine

10:13 AM

the results were not good

I think you did a good job recycling that into something useful

yeah, i understand your point of view, and you are on a niche "sourcing", but don't push ideas such as mixing PET with PE or PP with PS and such on ^^

what kind of mixed plastics went into that?

the problem was it was so soft and fluffy it did not feed into the extrusion hopper without pushing with a stick

10:15 AM

it is mylar chip bags, shopping bag, food bag, bubble wrap, shrink wrap, soda bottle labels

so then after a lot of research, we got a feed pelletizer

10:16 AM

and we fed the plastic fluff into the pelletizer

10:16 AM

then we fed those pellets into the extrusion machine.

10:16 AM

the plastic picked up a bit of moisture, that is why it has bubbles

ok. Thanks for sharing, its very interesting. But right now I'm still stuck at the shredder part

10:17 AM

The V4 shredder, what's the cost estimate in your region in USD?

we are looking at ways to do this on a mass industrial scale. taking precious plastic to the next level for local trash facilities

10:18 AM

v4 shredder locally would be somewhere around 5-6000 dollars here in the Philipines.

10:19 AM

Due to high cost of new gear motors, and the steel for the blades is about 900usd per sheet

10:19 AM

the v4 pro

Butte (PP Philippines)

we are looking at ways to do this on a mass industrial scale. taking precious plastic to the next level for local trash facilities

that is inclusive of the motor I think?

i mean the plastic pelletizing system for the fluff portion of the plastic waste stream

10:20 AM

we are working on industrial scale

10:21 AM

for your project do a v3 shredder, and look at processing HDPE and PP

10:21 AM

get your feet wet, gain experience

I initially started by wanting to shred 3D print materials only. But while going down that path, I thought I would want to help shred PET bottles

ok

@Butte (PP Philippines) what surface finish do you have on your sheet press molds?

galvanized sheet metal

1

10:22 AM

we find galvanized is more non stick than stainless or alum or bare steel

10:23 AM

Interesting

Butte (PP Philippines)

we find galvanized is more non stick than stainless or alum or bare steel

totally agree

Zinc fumes are set free when galvanised steel is heated. These fumes are very toxic to breathe. Deposits of zinc from the fumes accumulate in the food. ... There are no USDA certified-safe galvanized metal cooking surfaces or containers.

maybe because the zinc coating has a low melt point

you do not heat the galvanized sheet hot enough to oxidize it

Butte (PP Philippines)

we are working on industrial scale

How did you fund yourself? At £5000 of my own money I wouldn't imagine being able to recoup that investment if I were to start a local shop

well originally I just wanted a injection molder.

apparently depends on what king of galvinization

and then I built a couple machines to sell to others

10:25 AM

and kept working and working

10:25 AM

and it self funded

so you earned your returns by making machines rather than recycling?

yes

masCh KisieL

How did you fund yourself? At £5000 of my own money I wouldn't imagine being able to recoup that investment if I were to start a local shop

i did A LOT of stuff with a 50€ starting investment for a few years x)

we organize a lot, and we build a lot of precious plastic machines for the local governments here

10:26 AM

we have 5 full time employees now

masCh KisieL

so you earned your returns by making machines rather than recycling?

it all depends on your business plan bud x) many workshops have defferent sources of income (selling products, doing sentisization workshops, production workshops, selling machines...)

10:28 AM

but if selling shredds is your aim, it will just not be enough to be sustainable

Yeah, I'm just a complete newbie just wanting to know if this could scale up

10:28 AM

Thanks for your feedback guys

10:28 AM

*thanks for sharing your experience

1

10:31 AM

I thought about making the shredder and the compression thing and sell for art.

10:31 AM

but not sure if that would be sustainable

10:32 AM

it would have been if I claimed its made from shredded bottles but now it looks like I have to abandon that idea

art projects are not super sellable unless you are someone like Bope shop in Thailand or the Ukraine guys

ahh ok

and since covid we have not heard much from Bope shop

10:32 AM

as his sales were to tourist

10:32 AM

plastic beams and furniture would be more sellable

10:33 AM

even the sheet

injection seems a bit too hard for me at this stage

getting one inquiry to buy every couple days for plastic sheet locally. I refer to the guy who bought the sheet press pro we built

I mean, it looks like I can make the injection machine. But the moldings are more difficult as far as I see

depends on the product

10:34 AM

we got a order for 2000 soap dishes injection molded

10:34 AM

that is one full time person right there

plastic sheet is the thing from the PP compression machine?

yes

oh that's interesting

what kind of sqm pricing do you do?

10:35 AM

labor costs here drive prices up a lot

the local guy is charging 16usd for a 4mm thick 1200x1200mm sheet

what do they customers use the sheets for?

labor costs here are very low.

10:36 AM

min wage is around USD 7.50 per day

that's almost only material costs here

per day.. yeah that's cheap

though not much material so you can shred it

they are getting the shred plastic for free from the local gov, and the local gov is providing the shop space

but that also depends on what people are willing to apy

I can tell you that we would have to charge 10x that

at the moment it is mainly just a pilot project to see how much plastic they can divert from the Pasig river

unless we get huge volume ordered

the Pasig river alone contributes 6.3% of the worlds ocean plastic

10:39 AM

the squatters throw all their trash in the river without care.

You used V4 shredder with the 5hp machine for the river trash?

no

10:41 AM

they are using giant screens to scoop it out of the river and put in landfill

10:41 AM

never ending battle

10:42 AM

we almost need something like a fish wheel to collect plastic there

11:07 AM

This is how you use build a extrusion machine without a gear motor

11:07 AM

5 hp motor turns the middle shaft and speed is reduced

11:08 AM

then that shaft is connected to a sprocket and chain which further reduces the speed.

11:08 AM

the sprocket and chain is used on the second stage because the increased torque makes belts slip.

11:10 AM

other upgrades include the 800mm x30mm extrusion screw, and the barrel is bored out steel round bar with a slide fit tolerance to the screw.

11:10 AM

also added hand guards for the heaters and moving parts.

11:12 AM

machine getting the final paint tonight, and wiring finish tomorrow. project has been delayed due to the weather and humidity preventing the paint from drying fast.

has anybody tried 3d printed or injection molded gears for the extrusion machine?

They would not be strong enough

Hi guys! I am quoting my shredder and extrusion machines. A doubt about materials. I am on a small island (Guadeloupe) with very aggressive/corrosive atmosphere. Are the materials specified in the BOM suitable for my location area or did someone in the same situation had some troubles. Of course, all external no-heated parts (frames, etc,..) will be painted. What about internal and heated parts? Thanks

KomPa2s

Hi guys! I am quoting my shredder and extrusion machines. A doubt about materials. I am on a small island (Guadeloupe) with very aggressive/corrosive atmosphere. Are the materials specified in the BOM suitable for my location area or did someone in the same situation had some troubles. Of course, all external no-heated parts (frames, etc,..) will be painted. What about internal and heated parts? Thanks

The BOM just says "Steel". You can order the parts as stainless steel.

just be careful of dimensions differing slightly. Our shredder was made with stainless and the sheet thicknesses were slightly larger than the steel which caused us a bunch of problems.

5:47 PM

Welding of the stainless can also be a concern

Ok. I am checking steel with Magnelis(R) treatment that seems to be a good compromise between corrosion resistance and weldability! You are all great to respond! @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto : I was checking all considering the materials specified in the 2D! Sorry

Hello people, where would one find the cut files for the shredder PRO? The PP website leads me round in circles!!! Cheers

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

10:57 PM

Shredder workspace has the pro files

KomPa2s

Hi guys! I am quoting my shredder and extrusion machines. A doubt about materials. I am on a small island (Guadeloupe) with very aggressive/corrosive atmosphere. Are the materials specified in the BOM suitable for my location area or did someone in the same situation had some troubles. Of course, all external no-heated parts (frames, etc,..) will be painted. What about internal and heated parts? Thanks

if corrosion is a worry, use galvanized steel. i am in the tropics and it is not really a worry with galvanized and paint. For the steel parts that need to be bare, we phosphate coat it using rust converter and rub grease into it.

Hello All, Rushi Thakker here from India. I am an mould designer and plastic product developer working in my own company named 3 Brothers Machination. I love and am passionate to develop new things with different shapes and in different material. I went through some of the video of our community and was wondering why cant we develop a machine for blow moulding of bottles with recycled HDPE plastics only ?

Rushi Thakker

Hello All, Rushi Thakker here from India. I am an mould designer and plastic product developer working in my own company named 3 Brothers Machination. I love and am passionate to develop new things with different shapes and in different material. I went through some of the video of our community and was wondering why cant we develop a machine for blow moulding of bottles with recycled HDPE plastics only ?

Would be interesting! How does your concept looks like? Small scale blow moulding machine?

for the trail 100 ml Blowing machine is fair enough. We can 1st try with conventional machine which are available in the market for the basic results and then we can for build of our own.

whats the thickest material the shredder pro can handle?

We've shredded cutoffs from 25mm sheets before. Thickness is less of an issue than width. (edited)

6:59 PM

What are you considering shredding?

Falcon

What are you considering shredding?

I have cut offs of acetate that are 8mm at their thickest. Follow on question, at that thickness is it making chips instead of shreds?

Anyone know a source where i could buy an extrusion machine kit or Injection machine kit that could make it to Atlanta Georgia USA by August 15 (for me to carry in a plane back to Panamá) looked on the bazaar and eBay to not much avail

1

6:34 AM

Latest extrusion build.

looking good

1

trying out something new by covering the sides with phenolic plywood

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Would be interesting! How does your concept looks like? Small scale blow moulding machine?

The parison of extrusion blow machine hollow material continuously and so we need to install two hydraulic cylinders for making plunger based machine instead of screw barrel to get the marble like texture effect in the bottles too. (edited)

we made some 6 meter long beams with the extrusion today.

3

Oh man! @Butte (PP Philippines) would lovd to see a video of that

Hi , i´m Sergio

3:18 AM

i´m from Mexico

3:18 AM

i want buy a design to buil a machine shreder

3:19 AM

i want work with plastics PET

3:20 AM

Can someboy helpme

Joseph

Oh man! @Butte (PP Philippines) would lovd to see a video of that

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLew73emWTs here ya go

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic lumber

3:56 AM

the beam ended up 9 feet long. The tube had a defect inside so we had to cut it short

5:24 AM

5:25 AM

prototyping a injection mold upgrade

5:27 AM

first picture is the floating barrel. when the handle is pressed, the barrel will move down and mate with the mold via the brass nozzle

5:27 AM

the barrel will retract when the handle is lifted and spring load

8:22 AM

Rebuilding the v3.1 extrusion machine today also.

Hello everyone. I just had a quick question about ventilation for the precious plastics machines. I am thinking of purchasing the: Extrusion Pro V4 and Sheetpress. I was wondering what kind of ventilation CFM draws would be required to operate both machines safely. They will be installed in a university, so carbon filters will not be necessary (all air is drawn to a central scrubber). Thank you in advance!

@Yann should have some info for you @Choonis

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLew73emWTs here ya go

Amazing! thanks for sharing

Thank you @Joseph , I will send a message now!

does anyone have the plans for the shredder so i can get them ordered

@richrd you can get them from the official website

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Thanks

Is it possible to build machines without a welder? I have mill, lathe, cnc mill

gcardinal

Is it possible to build machines without a welder? I have mill, lathe, cnc mill

Certainly! Making a bolted frame that is well reinforced is reasonable.

3

Hello all new here. I have a question! Does anybody know if there is a particular reason that the shredder Pro uses 2mm and 4mm spaces together between the blades rather than using just one 6mm spacer?

in the shredder pro you have 2,5mm and 4mm spacers - and the reason is simple - because 2,5mm and 4mm material is avaible 6,5mm is not .

11:01 AM

and forget about 6mm . the whole mashine is designed for 6,5mm spacers - blades are 6

11:02 AM

https://shredding.pl/blog/ - pictures of an shredder pro build in poland here. (edited)

11:04 AM

Is anybody here a VFD wizard? I'm having problems with my VFD (from Amazon, because covid tanked my better supplier). i'm trying to set the parameter for the VFD https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D76365G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 To work with this motor: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/motors/ac_motors_-_inverter_duty/inverter_duty_(with_and_without_encoder)/mtcp2-003-3bd18c On USA single phase 240V 60hz power. The motor VFD keeps giving me an Error 4 (too much power drain)

Variable Frequency Drive, MYSWEETY AC 220V/2.2KW 3HP 10A VFD Invert...

Variable Frequency Drive, MYSWEETY AC 220V/2.2KW 3HP 10A VFD Inverter Frequency Converter for Spindle Motor Speed Control (1 phase INPUT and 3 phase OUTPUT)

Premium Efficiency AC Motor: general purpose, inverter duty and haz...

MTCP2-003-3BD18C - IronHorse premium efficiency AC induction motor, general purpose, inverter duty and hazardous location, 3hp, 3-phase, 230/460 VAC,...

9:06 PM

I'm thinking something in this main area, where you set frequency and voltage has got to be off. Open for a zoom call or discord chat to help me think this through!

Hi. friends want to produce plastic bricks would anyone help me?

Hey everyone, what's the best way to clean an aluminium sheet? I keep getting these white spots after melting my sheets. They will then transfer across to the next sheet if I don't get rid of them. Any tips or hints on this would be much appreciated. Cheers.

@TEglenThese VFD's generally defaults to 400 Hz motors. It looks like P04 and P05 are on 400HZ, these would need to be changed to 60HZ.

1

Zero Plastics Australia

Hey everyone, what's the best way to clean an aluminium sheet? I keep getting these white spots after melting my sheets. They will then transfer across to the next sheet if I don't get rid of them. Any tips or hints on this would be much appreciated. Cheers.

One very useful tool is the blade from a utility knife

Ill give that a go, cheers.

does anyone know how to best bleed air from a bottle jack when the fill cap is on the bottom?

2:22 PM

everything I find has the cap towards the top

Hi. Wondering if 3M's VOC cartridges for masks (3M Organic Vapor Cartridge 6001) are enough (edited)

4:26 PM

I'll be working with HDPE and maybe PLA. (edited)

Falcon

does anyone know how to best bleed air from a bottle jack when the fill cap is on the bottom?

stand it on its head

4:58 PM

Hi I am a high school teacher in Omaha Nebraska USA. I am looking at having my students build a shredder and extruder this coming semester as a way to reuse our 3Dprints and just reuse plastic around the school in general. I did not know if there are any snags I should be aware of since the designs of these tools are European. Mostly, are 220V motors necessary? Or something else I am not thinking of...? We have a TIG welder, waterjet, CNC router and Mill. I think we can get this done. However trying to minimize issues by asking.

4:59 PM

Sorry I said extruder, I meant Injector

Hi guys so I almost have my shredder ready, but I dont know what type of motor to use. Not sitting large...at all so what will work? Besides a hand crank.

@RicharoniMost motors are three phase anyway, some of them are equiped with a big capacitor to get them run on single phase. If you only have single phase 110V available, the best is to get a VFD 1 PH in, 3 Phase out and let the VFD do the rest.

1

6:06 PM

@my_precious_polyIf you are on a budget and you are in Europe, you can get maybe even second hand a "silent garden shredder", the motor comes with the gearbox (40-45rpm) and you also can salvage the command-buttons. They are 2.5 kw and run on single phase. New these shredders are sold for less than 200€.

Thank you that gives me some idea of what to look for. Im in USA.

Richaroni

Hi I am a high school teacher in Omaha Nebraska USA. I am looking at having my students build a shredder and extruder this coming semester as a way to reuse our 3Dprints and just reuse plastic around the school in general. I did not know if there are any snags I should be aware of since the designs of these tools are European. Mostly, are 220V motors necessary? Or something else I am not thinking of...? We have a TIG welder, waterjet, CNC router and Mill. I think we can get this done. However trying to minimize issues by asking.

Hi Rich, I'm in Phoenix and have just finished my extruder, I'd be happy to help you find suppliers for parts in the US as I just went through that process. @my_precious_poly same offer goes to you. Our USA parts list has some info on what other people have used for the shredder. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qSNUukWd7m4Fu_FIUrrukIoTWbmztkehp8v1GCE4RR8/edit?usp=sharing

PP USA part list

Shredder How to add this sheet! 1. Add a new row for each item. [right click on the column index and click "insert one below"] 2. Add your name to the first column [and CA or US in brackets to denote your location], followed by the product Id and any other pertinant specifications. 3. Provide l...

Thank u

Thanks! This helps a ton. I was looking at the Bazar (spelling) marketplace for the laser cut parts. I have a water jet and I think I could make my own, but I could not seem to get a handle on what material was suggested for the parts. I would assume tool steel would work, but did not know as I saw everything from mild to stainless on there?

sonik

@RicharoniMost motors are three phase anyway, some of them are equiped with a big capacitor to get them run on single phase. If you only have single phase 110V available, the best is to get a VFD 1 PH in, 3 Phase out and let the VFD do the rest.

Thanks! for the most part I am self taught and have been dealing with small DC and servo motors for the last.... 10 years. what is a VFD?

8:18 PM

oh Variable Frequency drive. I used to work at a place drill presses which used this tech

TEglen

Hi Rich, I'm in Phoenix and have just finished my extruder, I'd be happy to help you find suppliers for parts in the US as I just went through that process. @my_precious_poly same offer goes to you. Our USA parts list has some info on what other people have used for the shredder. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1qSNUukWd7m4Fu_FIUrrukIoTWbmztkehp8v1GCE4RR8/edit?usp=sharing

thanks- did you get your VFD to work from yesterday?

yep, and we had a successful throughput of plastic, so now its onto to mold making

sonik

@RicharoniMost motors are three phase anyway, some of them are equiped with a big capacitor to get them run on single phase. If you only have single phase 110V available, the best is to get a VFD 1 PH in, 3 Phase out and let the VFD do the rest.

Hoist motors are single phase, you can also use belt and pulley to reduce the rpm, or you can use a capacitor and hack a 3 phase motor to run single phase. Good Vfd are expensive. Cheap vfd do not work. Been there done that

3:10 AM

3:11 AM

our re-design of the injection molder.

3:12 AM

barrel plunges down to mate with the mold like the commercial designs.

3:12 AM

frame design changed to be more stiff

3:13 AM

legs not installed yet, as the location where it will be used has a low ceiling.

3:13 AM

so that is to be determined (edited)

3:13 AM

hopper is ditched in place of a removable funnel

3:15 AM

inspiration

3:15 AM

melding the Precious plastic design with this machine.

Nice!

4:38 AM

The boys are off to steel supply for the plunger now

9:31 AM

You can see the orig v2 injection molder and the changed framw

10:36 AM

bench vise to hold the mold

10:36 AM

this one is just place holder, 4 inch size ordered.

10:40 AM

finished for the day.

10:41 AM

looking at mods to use pneumatic to actuate the plunger. we got several thousand items to make.

Butte (PP Philippines)

bench vise to hold the mold

How do you deal with the different heights of mould if you have a fixed surface?

Just use blocks of wood or metal as spacers

11:54 PM

The barrel is spring loaded. Moves up and down also

Hello everyone. I just had a quick question about ventilation for the precious plastics machines. I am thinking of purchasing the: Extrusion Pro V4 and Sheetpress. I was wondering what kind of ventilation CFM draws would be required to operate both machines safely. They will be installed in a university, so carbon filters will not be necessary (all air is drawn to a central scrubber). Thank you in advance!

5:04 AM

I should note that this message is a repost from earlier (I did not have any luck in finding an answer last time I asked about a week ago). I don't mean to spam though!

Choonis

Hello everyone. I just had a quick question about ventilation for the precious plastics machines. I am thinking of purchasing the: Extrusion Pro V4 and Sheetpress. I was wondering what kind of ventilation CFM draws would be required to operate both machines safely. They will be installed in a university, so carbon filters will not be necessary (all air is drawn to a central scrubber). Thank you in advance!

You should be fine with the pressure from your scrubber, they don't need much.

So my shredder shaft just snapped all I can do now is replace the shaft and hopefully I can build the v4 in the future. Old shaft was 4130-Normalized but I am looking for something that has better shear strength. I can get hexbars in: 4140/4142-Cold Finish 304/304L-Annealed Cold Finish 303-Annealed Cold Finish 316/316L-Annealed Cold Finish Any suggestions for a new shaft that might be stronger and is relatively easy to machine?

itsgeorge

So my shredder shaft just snapped all I can do now is replace the shaft and hopefully I can build the v4 in the future. Old shaft was 4130-Normalized but I am looking for something that has better shear strength. I can get hexbars in: 4140/4142-Cold Finish 304/304L-Annealed Cold Finish 303-Annealed Cold Finish 316/316L-Annealed Cold Finish Any suggestions for a new shaft that might be stronger and is relatively easy to machine?

we changed to 1.25 inch shaft aka 32mm hex bar in 4140 and upped the output shaft to 1 inch. zero broken shafts and several hundred built so far.

1

we changed the laser files to use the bigger shaft, and also changed the long thread rod to 1/2 inch x 8 inch structural steel bolt. It simplified the build and the structural steel bolts are much stronger than thread rod.

4:32 AM

also changed the little corner bolts to m8.

4:32 AM

locally no structural steel bolt in m12, and inch flange bearings are easier to get than metric

8:47 AM

more progress on our injection molder.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

got any videos of it?

build still in progress. revised plunger in the machinist, barrel and nozzle in machinist, plunger guide and hopper to be machined

8:53 AM

it should be all done next week.

8:53 AM

then documentation

Quick shot of our high speed shredder the boys started on today also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pLvO6gW3lU

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Philippines v4 High Speed Shredder

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

we changed to 1.25 inch shaft aka 32mm hex bar in 4140 and upped the output shaft to 1 inch. zero broken shafts and several hundred built so far.

The imperial version I've seen floating online still had the 1 inch hexbar machined down to fit 3/4 bearing. Where can I find the laser cuts to the beefier version? Thanks :)

I.changed the files in cad

Butte (PP Philippines)

Quick shot of our high speed shredder the boys started on today also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pLvO6gW3lU

Would love to see this in action. Good work

Ill post video tomorrow

2:57 PM

9pm here

Butte (PP Philippines)

I.changed the files in cad

Would you be willing to upload/share the cad files? I'm sure it's not too bad to make the alterations locally but have limited cad experience.

Does someone know a cheap lasercutting service company for steel plates in the Netherlands?

Ok so I am at a loss, I am building the shredder and am having the hardest time countersinking the holes for bearing bolts, I have made sure to go slow and use water to keep the metal cool but my bits still don’t want to cut the stainless steel and there brand new! Any suggestions? I have only been using a drill, do I need a drill press or milling machine?

Nacnud

Ok so I am at a loss, I am building the shredder and am having the hardest time countersinking the holes for bearing bolts, I have made sure to go slow and use water to keep the metal cool but my bits still don’t want to cut the stainless steel and there brand new! Any suggestions? I have only been using a drill, do I need a drill press or milling machine?

You will want to use a carbide bit for SS. Additionally cutting fluid and small pecks at the material with a drill press will get you where you want to go.

Water?? No. You must used "oil" and for the stainless you must used vanadio drill

CitSciWorkshop

You will want to use a carbide bit for SS. Additionally cutting fluid and small pecks at the material with a drill press will get you where you want to go.

Do you typically use just an oversized bit or an actual countersink bit?

@Nacnud countersink goes best for this sizes, at lower RPM and good pressure, hold it well in place ...

Nacnud

Do you typically use just an oversized bit or an actual countersink bit?

I use a bit such at these, https://www.amazon.com/ATOPLEE-Countersink-Deburring-Deburing-Countersinker/dp/B00M7K9H5K/ref=mp_s_a_1_7_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=countersink+bits+for+metal&qid=1628442837&sprefix=cointersink+bit&sr=8-7-spons&psc=1&smid=AIR2VQG8HOY2R&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExNUJESjQ0MFdSSUk0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDYxMjQxMkNCSU81Rk5XWkw4UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEzMDA1SVFCRTRGTjBBTExVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

ATOPLEE Countersink Drill Bit Set,4pcs 90 Degree High Speed Steel D...

ATOPLEE Countersink Drill Bit Set,4pcs 90 Degree High Speed Steel Deburring Tool Hole Cutter

Nacnud

Ok so I am at a loss, I am building the shredder and am having the hardest time countersinking the holes for bearing bolts, I have made sure to go slow and use water to keep the metal cool but my bits still don’t want to cut the stainless steel and there brand new! Any suggestions? I have only been using a drill, do I need a drill press or milling machine?

lube the bit with oil. alternately we made our holes 14mm. cut off the head of a m14 bolt and welded in place like a stud bolt.

2:22 AM

if your weld is bad, you will see it crack when you bolt on the bearing so check. if no crack and you do not need to super crack it tight, then it is good. also check to make sure the bead is not raised and the blade hits it. Stick welding will have the most issue with quality control with this part. TIG is best as you can really get in there and blend the two metals together first before running a bead of filler rod

Butte (PP Philippines)

lube the bit with oil. alternately we made our holes 14mm. cut off the head of a m14 bolt and welded in place like a stud bolt.

I never could of imagined how many tools i feel i need now after trying to build this shredder! But i like the idea of the studs thanks for sharing.

I'm currently building a plastic injection arbor, based off the "Elena XMAX" https://plastic-hub.com/products/elena-xmax.html I've got all the electrical parts

Ink Bird SSR-40 DA
Ink Bird Temperature Controller
Thermocouple
Heat Band

But have never done wiring like this and can’t seem to find or open a wire diagram from the build draws for the "Elena XMAX". Anyone got a wiring diagram to hook this up?

Arbor - Injection - ‘Elena-XMAX’

Precious Plastic - Machine : Arbor - Injection - ‘Elena-XMAX’ by PlasticHub

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFIsVy0dPSY

Precious Plastic Philippines

injection mold aug 2021 test

2

Hello everyone we are a new company based in Turkey. Our name is The Back Lab we are starting a small workshop with a sheet press and we were fortunate enough to get a robotic arm with an extruder. Currently we have an issue with our sheet press. As you probably know we are using a square metal frame in between two iron plates to form a mold. Our problem is that the iron plates are getting bent with the heat therefore deforming our sheets. Our sheets are thinner in the middle. Did anyone else experience this? Do you have any suggestions?

@Veenularfungus#121 hi, just like to chime in. You can use a good quality HSS bit. However if you used water (No No) to cool, you possibly overheated the Stainless and workhardened the area. Now it would be even tougher. So Carbide might be required. A regular drill bit can work but would need to be sharpened to suit the Flat head cap screw countersink angle to confirm to the drawing which is another matter.. I actually like to call for Precious Plastic to change that in their design the flathead there just does not work well. A tapped hole there and a stud that is welded in would work much better. Anyway, use a good quality cutting fluid not (Oil is a lubricant not a cutting enhancer and is the opposite of what you want to use here). If you are using a regular drill bit sharpened at the countersing angle then be extra safety concious and assure your workpiece is firmly clamped to the table as the pisitive rake angle on that tool may want to grab the workpiece. (edited)

1

12:28 PM

@Callum you should be able to use the Precious Plastic Wiring diagram from the injector.

@Asok I hope you used Hot Rolled Material as the cold rolled will release the stress when heated and warp.

hello all, I have a very BIG question...please help me!!...I finished to assembly the extruder...I arrive to the inverter...the inverter company said that i must use input reactor, input filter, output reactor and output filter!!! Considering that I'm not an electric guy and I don't know hot to do, plus in the precious plastic video to how to build an extruder V4 in not mention at all!....Do I should connect directly?

Thanks

@Callum it's better to use a contactor for 1kW + . Ignore the motor part ( but may be useful for @Tao )

1

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@Veenularfungus#121 hi, just like to chime in. You can use a good quality HSS bit. However if you used water (No No) to cool, you possibly overheated the Stainless and workhardened the area. Now it would be even tougher. So Carbide might be required. A regular drill bit can work but would need to be sharpened to suit the Flat head cap screw countersink angle to confirm to the drawing which is another matter.. I actually like to call for Precious Plastic to change that in their design the flathead there just does not work well. A tapped hole there and a stud that is welded in would work much better. Anyway, use a good quality cutting fluid not (Oil is a lubricant not a cutting enhancer and is the opposite of what you want to use here). If you are using a regular drill bit sharpened at the countersing angle then be extra safety concious and assure your workpiece is firmly clamped to the table as the pisitive rake angle on that tool may want to grab the workpiece. (edited)

Thanks Mirco. I ended up finding a retired machinist in my neighborhood that was able to take care of it before I messed it up more! Haha

Deleted User

@Callum it's better to use a contactor for 1kW + . Ignore the motor part ( but may be useful for @Tao )

Thank you very much

Hi everyone, I bought this shredder 3.1 from the PP Bazaar: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-v3.1-with-hopper-and-shields.-32mm-shaft-for-operation-including-know-observation-fixes-of-previous-versions./ but the blades are too loose causing them to catch/jam as they rotate. Does anyone have the blueprints for the shredder 3.1 so I can check it has been assembled accurately, or can anyone advise on how to make the blades have less movement in them? Thanks

Shredder v3.1 with Hopper and shields

Mirco (CANADA, ON)

@Asok I hope you used Hot Rolled Material as the cold rolled will release the stress when heated and warp.

Hello thank you for your answer

. I will look into that. I have an other question. What is the ideal thickness for these steel or iron plates?

As thick as possible

we have 1.5mm currently and are going to 2mm

Hey guys, how many RPM you run the extruder V4?

jhgreenbarrel

Hi everyone, I bought this shredder 3.1 from the PP Bazaar: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-v3.1-with-hopper-and-shields.-32mm-shaft-for-operation-including-know-observation-fixes-of-previous-versions./ but the blades are too loose causing them to catch/jam as they rotate. Does anyone have the blueprints for the shredder 3.1 so I can check it has been assembled accurately, or can anyone advise on how to make the blades have less movement in them? Thanks

Looks like a well built shredder! In terms of 'catching' this can be due to the cutting blades being 5mm and the fixed blade spacers 6mm. This leaves a gap and if the blades wobble on the shaft, they can catch. Thin plastic can also get squished between the blades instead of being cut. Message the seller, I'm sure they can rectify any issues

jhgreenbarrel

Hi everyone, I bought this shredder 3.1 from the PP Bazaar: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-v3.1-with-hopper-and-shields.-32mm-shaft-for-operation-including-know-observation-fixes-of-previous-versions./ but the blades are too loose causing them to catch/jam as they rotate. Does anyone have the blueprints for the shredder 3.1 so I can check it has been assembled accurately, or can anyone advise on how to make the blades have less movement in them? Thanks

It sounds like it just needs the spacer vs the backplates checked and the overall tightened up. Realize the relationship of the spacer and blade center distance (as can be checked wit ha caliper) needs to be the same as one fixed blade and spacer. The drawings can be found on the precious plastic website but it is more important to be relative to the exact steel dimensions used, the drawings don`t give you that, at least not to the accuracy level you may need if the material used is not as per drawing. (edited)

hello, I need a technical advice...Just finished assembly the extruder V4, with 2 band nozzle area, 2 band middle area and 1 band as first in feeding area. As precious plastic specification I set 200 degree nozzle area, 200 middle area and 190 feeding area. By running the machine the feeding area band drop the temperature from 190 to around 125 ?!?!?!?!...I try to check electricity and various cable...looks all ok..but still a mystery PLEASE ANY ADVICE ON THIS PROBLEM?

Hello Everybody, which reductor do you use in extruder ?

Tao

hello, I need a technical advice...Just finished assembly the extruder V4, with 2 band nozzle area, 2 band middle area and 1 band as first in feeding area. As precious plastic specification I set 200 degree nozzle area, 200 middle area and 190 feeding area. By running the machine the feeding area band drop the temperature from 190 to around 125 ?!?!?!?!...I try to check electricity and various cable...looks all ok..but still a mystery PLEASE ANY ADVICE ON THIS PROBLEM?

How quick does it drop? Do you have a infrared temp gun to double check actual temperature? Is the controller calling for heat the whole time?

Nacnud

How quick does it drop? Do you have a infrared temp gun to double check actual temperature? Is the controller calling for heat the whole time?

@Tao - ye, did you do run auto-tune yet ? RexC as Inkbird wants it cozy under a good load of heat insulation..

Nacnud

How quick does it drop? Do you have a infrared temp gun to double check actual temperature? Is the controller calling for heat the whole time?

Drop quite fast, and the controller calling for heat all the time ...but the heat don't increase as long I stop to inject. If I stop to inject, heat go up again

Deleted User

@Tao - ye, did you do run auto-tune yet ? RexC as Inkbird wants it cozy under a good load of heat insulation..

I didn't do any auto tune and the controller is not Rex...is something from China.

You need to research PID and the theory. You do not have to know the exact math, rather the concept so when you do the PID auto tune, you will understand what is happening.

PID and 'theory' is far beyond anyone's pay grade here

looks more more like a setup,... problem

2:36 AM

if auto-tune and proper setup doesn't work, then something is really off ...

2:39 AM

but great exercise to integrate 3 different inferring heat zones through 3 proprietary PIDs , lol

(edited)

you also need to experiment where you are mounting your thermocouples. too close to the heater gives wildly inaccurate reading

that's simple : place in the middle of 2, or near a single zone

yes but you can move it 4mm and get different result.

yup, that's why you put heat insulation on it

2:43 AM

even though, barrel penetration gives also up to 40% different results ...

i had a extrusion pro, the zone by the output was giving crazy numbers. no idea until removed the insulation and moved the thermocouple a couple mm.

2:43 AM

i use insulation and heat shields

2:44 AM

but not ptting on insulation until the placment of the thermocouple is set. otherwise a waste of muffler wrap

btw, PID parameters between RexC, Inkbird & Omron E5 differ a lot on the same setup; tried to pass it down the road from E5 with no success, even with insulation and some basic math guess work, just saying because auto-tune or manual settings can be really annoying

Inkbird however seems to have at least an UART interface - I asked them through multiple instances but no response.. That would pave the way to have a cheap way to get temperature profiles. So if anyone is into hardware hacking ... , would be great to know. I am hooking up a better scope later on this year ... RS485 doubles or triples the price after all, even on Ali. (edited)

that's what we get for using something so cheap

This makes me think, has anyone looked into programming the temperature control into an Arduino instead, I wonder what performance benefits could be seen with something that is clear for anyone to tinker with, and PID parameters would be easily manipulated, not to mention the numerous other control that could be accomplished with it.

yes, http://ospid.com/blog/download/ has the more solid code I've seen so far.

rocketscream

Download

osPID is made with 100% open source hardware spirit! All the files and documents (including the content on the osPID website) on osPID are licensed under Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC

3:28 PM

but for multi-channel, you probably want something faster, ESP32 for instance (but comes limited I/O), here nice wrap-ups : https://www.industrialshields.com/programmable-logic-controllers-based-on-arduino-raspberry-pi-and-esp32-20210416-lp

➡️PLC Controller Arduino, Raspberry Pi or ESP32

Open Source based solutions for automation, monitoring and control. Industrial controllers with Arduino, Raspberry Pi or ESP32 original boards.

Nacnud

This makes me think, has anyone looked into programming the temperature control into an Arduino instead, I wonder what performance benefits could be seen with something that is clear for anyone to tinker with, and PID parameters would be easily manipulated, not to mention the numerous other control that could be accomplished with it.

There are a lot of examples in Reprap firmware and loads of breakout boards, yeah. I believe the Sheep on Wheels group implemented an array on their automated sheetpress.

I'm planning to make something to do just that

5:04 PM

though not as much temperature control yet

5:04 PM

first want to get an array to see how the temperature develops over an entire press

We've done the same, using some automation to regulate power consumption for US power requirements, switching through phases of PID running high wattage heater blocks. We'll move to integrated PIDs once we have time to do the dev.

Hello all, does anyone know if powder coating a compression mold would help it be more durable with regards to the plastic sticking to it ?

Hi would it be advisable to use the plastic shredder as a foam shredder as well? PU foam from furniture upholstery, specifically.

biiancaco

Hi would it be advisable to use the plastic shredder as a foam shredder as well? PU foam from furniture upholstery, specifically.

unless your foam is quite rigid/hard i dont think that would work,most foam shredders appear to be high speed/low torque with quite thin blades like those in a slicer

1

Hello guys Can shredder pro handle PET,too?

Hello guys, havent been able to find the diameter to roll in this part, does anyone knows it or knows where can I find it?

ccarrilloo

Hello guys, havent been able to find the diameter to roll in this part, does anyone knows it or knows where can I find it?

It depends on the final size of particles you want

Coalday

Hello guys Can shredder pro handle PET,too?

Pls sb answer

Coalday

Hello guys Can shredder pro handle PET,too?

yes it can for sure. Whats not recommended is to use the other machines to melt PET. Or at least we cant ensure a good quality output

ccarrilloo

Hello guys, havent been able to find the diameter to roll in this part, does anyone knows it or knows where can I find it?

what blueprints are you using? the old download kit?

1

Carolina

yes it can for sure. Whats not recommended is to use the other machines to melt PET. Or at least we cant ensure a good quality output

Tnx

Carolina

what blueprints are you using? the old download kit?

yes i'm looking to build the 2.0 shredder, I thought there was a 2.xx or 3.xx version before the PRO, but haven't been able to find this files

we released a new CE version of this machine, i highly recommend you to download the files of the 3.3 version

here

https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/ (edited)

Carolina

we released a new CE version of this machine, i highly recommend you to download the files of the 3.3 version

here

https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/ (edited)

Thanks a lot

About the 3.3 version, is there any script with the changes that were made, I've noticed there is upgrades on the security of the machine but i'd like to know if the shredder mechanism had major changes... this is because the 3.3 version seems quite more expensive and it may be out of budget

@Nacnud I am figuring the stainless you have is 304 if cutting with HSS use 50-55 feet/ minute if carbide 250-425 if you run too slow or chatter with carbide it will chip. With HSS slow is okay. Watch chip color you do not want brown or even tan chips slow down speed. Don't let tools slide on surface if pecking bring pressure on so it starts cutting right away. Another lube that works well is bacon fat. It does make me hungry. A good stainless cutting fluid or dark cutting oil. The numbers I am giving are surface feet per minute. Metric will need to convert to meters per minute there are good apps for machining cutting speeds. Ex. 1/4" drill will be 764 rpm for 50 sf/min. Ask if you don't understand.

@Falcon If I understand your question this is just to put hydraulic oil in? Just put some oil in and then operate the jack to full extension. If it does not go all the way push ram back to bottom and repeat the ram raising. Be sure to leave air space in reservoir because when the ram is down that oil goes into reservoir. If there is not enough room it will mess as it leaves the jack.

Hi, I’m looking at getting a injection mould for pegs designed. Is there anyone here who can tell me if this would work? Or anyone here who offers this service(injection mould design)? (edited)

10:49 AM

Paulum

@Nacnud I am figuring the stainless you have is 304 if cutting with HSS use 50-55 feet/ minute if carbide 250-425 if you run too slow or chatter with carbide it will chip. With HSS slow is okay. Watch chip color you do not want brown or even tan chips slow down speed. Don't let tools slide on surface if pecking bring pressure on so it starts cutting right away. Another lube that works well is bacon fat. It does make me hungry. A good stainless cutting fluid or dark cutting oil. The numbers I am giving are surface feet per minute. Metric will need to convert to meters per minute there are good apps for machining cutting speeds. Ex. 1/4" drill will be 764 rpm for 50 sf/min. Ask if you don't understand.

Thanks Paulum, i ended up finding someone in my neighbourhood with a milling machine that was able to help me out. But i have realized i definitely need something better then a drill to make repeatable holes, so i am going to keep looking for a decent used drill press to acquire! (edited)

1

BigRed

Hi, I’m looking at getting a injection mould for pegs designed. Is there anyone here who can tell me if this would work? Or anyone here who offers this service(injection mould design)? (edited)

This would be a great part for injection moulding! You can also inject like 4-6 pegs depends on the part volume and your injection machine. Do you already have a part design? If you give me more information I can design the mould for you. (edited)

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

This would be a great part for injection moulding! You can also inject like 4-6 pegs depends on the part volume and your injection machine. Do you already have a part design? If you give me more information I can design the mould for you. (edited)

Cool! I’ll message you

Hello everyone. First time posting here. I found this amazing project today and I am really interested in building a shredder and extruder. I was looking through the BOM and I can't find how much steel (length and width) I need to purchase for the teeth blades and other items in that assembly that need to be laser cut. Am I missing a chunk of information somewhere in the ZIP file?

2:20 AM

I also hope this is the right place to post.

FJUnderwood

Hello everyone. First time posting here. I found this amazing project today and I am really interested in building a shredder and extruder. I was looking through the BOM and I can't find how much steel (length and width) I need to purchase for the teeth blades and other items in that assembly that need to be laser cut. Am I missing a chunk of information somewhere in the ZIP file?

Welcome! Normally just send the files to the laser cutting company and they tessellate the parts and order the material. Otherwise you'll have to work it out based of the drawings.

Hello everyone, I'm building a 3.3 shredder machine, I couln't understand the relation needed on this machine, because as you seem on the pictures the values of the Motor RPM and reducer doesn't mach. which kind on motor or reducer should I use?

biiancaco

Hi would it be advisable to use the plastic shredder as a foam shredder as well? PU foam from furniture upholstery, specifically.

the v3 shredder works awesome for foam. I have built several. Just do not use the screen. Here is example of a double size v3 shredder processing foam, using a 5hp single phase motor. https://youtu.be/hfUGFVdLzX0

Precious Plastic Philippines

Foam plastic shredder crusher

5:23 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGKpmlccXJg

Precious Plastic Philippines

Shredding foam

ccarrilloo

Hello everyone, I'm building a 3.3 shredder machine, I couln't understand the relation needed on this machine, because as you seem on the pictures the values of the Motor RPM and reducer doesn't mach. which kind on motor or reducer should I use?

Help please

Hi carrilloo, can you please elaborate on where your screenshot is from? link would be ideal. What it comes down to though is want the motor that will run the shredder at a certain RPM with the recommended torque, there are a wide variety of different motors and gearbox, or other options to drive the shredder (edited)

@ccarrilloo i dont get it, what you want. Sry

Hi everyone! We are trying to build a workshop in a remote island in Lombok to start recycling plastic and start making few products from the recycled plastic. I was looking into a machine to shred and melt the plastic to be then moulded.. Any suggestion to who can we parter up with? please if anyone can help get in touch by email giuliabianchi@hotmail.com (edited)

https://shrinke.me/ZBHnt

Plastic Recycling is an Actual Scam | Climate Town - YouTube

If you were worried that the plastic industry was getting a little too trustworthy, worry no longer! PATREON PAGE: https://www.patreon.com/ClimateTownsUbScRi...

похищен

@ccarrilloo i dont get it, what you want. Sry

I'd like to know if its better to use a 2.2 kw motor or a 1.5 kw motor, both with 70 rpm, for a shredder 3.3 https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/

@ccarrilloo - 3kW is the better invest, for 3.x + versions, cost basically the same and the machine is ready for 220V as well, in case someone has to adopt it ... or make it work with v4ish extruder or shredder. (edited)

@ccarrilloo more kw better, motor used less energy

Need to check the torque output. The shafts that are turned to about 19mm will work with 1.5 kw. I was chatting with someone using 5kw motor if you can see what I wrote on materials to use. I believe Butte says he makes shredder shafts at 25mm and do well with larger motors.

Does anyone know the reason the cold press has plywood sheets instead of aluminium?

8:16 AM

we find that they warp over time with the heating and cooling which is problematic for making flat sheets

Anyone is from India

what diameter should the cables have which I use for wiring up the injector? I used 0.5mm² diameter (didn't run it yet) and someone suggested to go thicker, but I am not sure by how much (0.7/1.0mm²?). I couldn't find any good info in the building instructions from PP as well

1

@PhilOn a 230V network, 0.5mm² is good up to 3 amps. 3 x 230 = 690 Watts, as long as you don't exceed 690 Watts, you are good with 0.5mm². If you are on 110V, you can go up to 330Watts. Which still works for most of the band heaters. Especially because you don(t have long cables to run. I hope i am clear. (Just came back from holidays, didn't really switch on brain yet).

2

There are up to 5 x heatbands, up to 230W each. Hence power supply cables for the heatbands should withstand up to 1.5kW, so 1.5mm is a good choice. There might be also addons as fume extraction (up to 500W), so the main power cable to the system should be rather 2.5mm to be future prove. https://www.elandcables.com/cable-calculator

Cable Calculator - Cable Sizing | Eland Cables

Cable size calculator to aid specification of cables to British Standard BS7671 and International standard IEC 60364-5-52. Use the cable calculator to add your installation details for sizing guidance and cable type suggestions. Full technical support available.

2

i want to build a extruder pro. Does anyone know the specs of the motor??

Hi guys me again, does anyone know if a 5Ton jack would be enough for a bio-press ? the beyond plastic model

Hi guys, is there anyway to purchase a shredder? I don’t have the time to build one. I’m looking online and I can’t find a small plastic shredder like the one in the videos. Everything is for wood or heavy metals.

try looking for Plastic Granulating Machine or Plastic Granulator as they're known as in the industry

hi! I'm interested in building an extrusion pro machine and have been looking at parts on the barzar. It lists two extrusion screws. are they both the same?

I'm not looking at the bazar but there's a smaller screw for the regular one and a larger one for the pro (edited)

4:00 PM

comparison

these are the two options in the shop. they're named slightly differently but i wanted to make 100% sure before I bought anything

bottom one doesn't look like the pro screw to me

it's under the extruder pro parts. I presume (hope) they're both for the pro but i was wondering if they had different thread pitches that might affect the performance with different materials

yeah, I'm clueless there so best to get more opinions, I'm just comparing the visual qualities to the video screenshot and it looks like both screws

Hey folks! I'm building a single-axis shredder, and I see several versions of the drawings. Anyone know which is the most recent? https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shredder-21 https://library.precious-plastic.org/machines/#shredder https://precious-plastic.org/home/library/machines/shredder/

5:38 PM

(Let me know if there's a better channel for this?)

Oh, I think I've answered my own question. Looks like the last two links don't have associated files, and the second link (shredder-21) is an updated version of the original.

Also, I've noticed that the precious plastic kit repository on github (https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit) has some errors when cloning. Anyone else see that?

Yay! My team has forked, fixed, and submitted a pull request for the repository. If feels good to contribute, even in a tiny way

1

finished all the major metalworking steps on our injector! (edited)

7:30 AM

cut a $50 rod too short but all fixed good as new

@Rai - nice weld job, what diameters you've used for the barrel and & plunger, and did you consider the arbor design instead already ?

yeah the arbor design? too late now haha

8:25 AM

I’ve seen those but I’ve never considered doing that instead because I wasn’t aware of any plans or blueprints out there. are they better? (edited)

8:27 AM

pipe is 1 5/16” OD, 1” ID plunger is .9688”

I have a hard time to get difference in metric but I hope it's around 0.15mm clearance. yes, blueprints via DM, np - in case you're getting bothered about

ah alright, I’ll let you know if we get there

8:34 AM

ok that’s.75mm so…. let’s just see how the initial tests come out.

right, in case it feels odd or weird - increase the clearance, can be up to 0.2mm ...

yeah, it would be easy enough to get a new piece.

y, was that TIG ? looks really decent, hats off man

mig actually!

8:40 AM

my grandfather did the welding actually, I’m trying to learn but it’s a learning curve

damn, feeling busted now !

8:41 AM

great job

yeah!

8:45 AM

got the best electrical box, it’s an old cow milking control box

1

8:46 AM

so it’s got a “Milk” button that I’m keeping there just for the novelty

looks like stainless, tuff job to cut your way through there, 4mm HSS drill can get you there

yeah that stuff is built to last

1

Hi. Wanted to pulverize bamboo after making it into wood chips to add to the plastic for a strengthening agent. I’ve read that bamboo works great but just not sure if this is powerful enough. Any idea if it would work?

Does anyone think it would work to cut the shredder teeth from a 1/2” thick acrylic instead of steel? I don’t have access to it.

Anthonyvanvolkinburg

Does anyone think it would work to cut the shredder teeth from a 1/2” thick acrylic instead of steel? I don’t have access to it.

No, the material strength of plastic isn't close to enough to stand up to the force of shredding.

@Anthonyvanvolkinburg Depends on what you're trying to shred. Soft materials as found in consumer plastics (check your fritch

and bio waste can be shredded with that. You could downsize the v3 shredder by 20% and keep the tolerances as low as possible: mobile to stationary & mobile to sieve - as well adjust the blade tip and housing for wear out. In later iterations, I'd give Delrin with metal inserts a try.

Hello, I want to create the Bio-Press machine, is there a pdf for the whole construction mechanism?

8:04 PM

I can't seem to find it

@MBrady, that is a great idea for strengthening, unfortunately that would likely make the resulting plastic non recyclable.

Anthonyvanvolkinburg

Does anyone think it would work to cut the shredder teeth from a 1/2” thick acrylic instead of steel? I don’t have access to it.

No, not likely.

Any one have schematics on this nozzel.

10:43 AM

Would really help

Hello…how do you come up with power rating, load current,circuit breaker relay size,SSR rating for the sheet press?

Rizo

Hello…how do you come up with power rating, load current,circuit breaker relay size,SSR rating for the sheet press?

We reworked a lot of the circuit for US power and amperage, but I could show you how I went about it, might help in your own adaptation.

CitSciWorkshop

We reworked a lot of the circuit for US power and amperage, but I could show you how I went about it, might help in your own adaptation.

Please do.

#troubleshooting Our oven has been acting weird. We have tried everything we can think of to diagnose &/or fix the problem. What recommendations do you have? What we know: Oven heats normally for approximately 45 minutes. Then, it begins to repeatedly turn on & off, never stabilizing on it's own. WHAT WE HAVE TRIED: *Turn off the whole unit for 5 minutes, that "fixes" the problem only for about 10 minutes. Off for 10 minutes = working for 20 mins. I haven't had the patience to do further experiments with this technique. *The thermostat doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. It still works no matter what temperature we set it at. *The thermometer is still reading correctly when double checked with a temperature sensor gun. *The on-board timer dial doesn't seem to have any connection to the malfunction, as it has happened when the timer has been set at multiple spots on the dial (we always use loud kitchen timers & because we on hearing the on-board timer). *Same issue happens when plugged into a different circuit in the building. *Outdoor & Indoor temperature doesn't seem to be connected either - it has been blazing hot here for the past few weeks & today it is relatively cool. What do you think? https://youtu.be/ewNzyhSfVRg (edited)

X37Adventures

Precious Plastics oven dilemma

try to change the wires for fiberglass wires for high temperature

X37Adventures

#troubleshooting Our oven has been acting weird. We have tried everything we can think of to diagnose &/or fix the problem. What recommendations do you have? What we know: Oven heats normally for approximately 45 minutes. Then, it begins to repeatedly turn on & off, never stabilizing on it's own. WHAT WE HAVE TRIED: *Turn off the whole unit for 5 minutes, that "fixes" the problem only for about 10 minutes. Off for 10 minutes = working for 20 mins. I haven't had the patience to do further experiments with this technique. *The thermostat doesn't seem to be malfunctioning. It still works no matter what temperature we set it at. *The thermometer is still reading correctly when double checked with a temperature sensor gun. *The on-board timer dial doesn't seem to have any connection to the malfunction, as it has happened when the timer has been set at multiple spots on the dial (we always use loud kitchen timers & because we on hearing the on-board timer). *Same issue happens when plugged into a different circuit in the building. *Outdoor & Indoor temperature doesn't seem to be connected either - it has been blazing hot here for the past few weeks & today it is relatively cool. What do you think? https://youtu.be/ewNzyhSfVRg (edited)

Has it worked before and has only started acting up? Or is this unit still not commissioned?

Nacnud

Has it worked before and has only started acting up? Or is this unit still not commissioned?

It has been in use since fall of 2019.

X37Adventures

It has been in use since fall of 2019.

Have you tried changing out the temperature controller? It seems to be the culprit if you have no power issues. Does the temperature controller receive power from mains or do you have a separate power source for it that happens to be DC? Could you supply a wiring diagram of the setup i may be able to assist in further steps to check, but i have seen DC power supplies act this way sometimes when loaded and it pulls the bus down and the equipment cycles like this. (edited)

Nacnud

Have you tried changing out the temperature controller? It seems to be the culprit if you have no power issues. Does the temperature controller receive power from mains or do you have a separate power source for it that happens to be DC? Could you supply a wiring diagram of the setup i may be able to assist in further steps to check, but i have seen DC power supplies act this way sometimes when loaded and it pulls the bus down and the equipment cycles like this. (edited)

I will see if I can get the wiring diagram.

Piers

For those who spotted our upgrade on IG this week, here is a video demonstrating our injection machine upgrade using a hydraulic log splitter. We’re aiming to post our full ‘how-to’ next week outlining the build. https://youtu.be/8CqJJLTXk5w

Hi Piers - I have watched your 'How We Built It' video on this machine in preparation of building my own - your colleague mentions that you must be wary of over pressurising. Do you think a installing a pressure gauge on the ram would help mitigate this? -you could manually apply a redline on the gauge, perhaps just below the pressure that blows the nozzle off. This could be easily calculated using FEA software in Solidworks or such.

Hey everyone, I am a high school teacher in a maker space, the boys ( all boys school) always flub 3d prints, I want to make a hand crank shredder. I saw the human powered version of the shredder, but it does not have the laser cut files. Should I use the same laser cut files as the single shaft shredder? We have a small waterjet the guys can use to cut out the parts. I got the step file uploaded to my CAD/Cam program, but if the work is already done.... why bother doing it twice.

Trentineer

Hi Piers - I have watched your 'How We Built It' video on this machine in preparation of building my own - your colleague mentions that you must be wary of over pressurising. Do you think a installing a pressure gauge on the ram would help mitigate this? -you could manually apply a redline on the gauge, perhaps just below the pressure that blows the nozzle off. This could be easily calculated using FEA software in Solidworks or such.

Yeah, it would certainly lower anxiety if we had a pressure sensor

. We originally installed a load cell between the rod and the end of the log splitter, however removed it to increase our stroke length. We’ve since installed a small commercial injector in our shop

see it here https://www.instagram.com/reel/CTE0s9znr_M/?utm_medium=copy_link

1

Richaroni

Hey everyone, I am a high school teacher in a maker space, the boys ( all boys school) always flub 3d prints, I want to make a hand crank shredder. I saw the human powered version of the shredder, but it does not have the laser cut files. Should I use the same laser cut files as the single shaft shredder? We have a small waterjet the guys can use to cut out the parts. I got the step file uploaded to my CAD/Cam program, but if the work is already done.... why bother doing it twice.

Are you referring to the hand powered one the guy for CNC kitchen did on YouTube? If so that was a typical shredder that he had bought from the bazaar to my knowledge so yes the current files available would work. Just a word of caution, not sure where you live, but I don’t have metric sheet metal available to me so I had to get the imperial version cut where I got from here https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/shredder-converted-to-imperial-system-inches/ The shredder doesn’t change, all your changing is what is driving the shredder, so you will need to think about how your going to attach a hand crank. (edited)

Olivier

Shredder converted to Imperial system (Inches) - Dave Hakkens

Hello everyone

After several days learning CAD and some 3D modeling tools, I have finally finished my conversion of the Precious Plastic Shredder to imperial units. This is a request that tons - Dave Hakkens

Nacnud

Have you tried changing out the temperature controller? It seems to be the culprit if you have no power issues. Does the temperature controller receive power from mains or do you have a separate power source for it that happens to be DC? Could you supply a wiring diagram of the setup i may be able to assist in further steps to check, but i have seen DC power supplies act this way sometimes when loaded and it pulls the bus down and the equipment cycles like this. (edited)

I'm assuming this is a wiring diagram?

Nacnud started a thread. 9/2/2021 4:03 PM

Hi everyone! We are from Barcelona and we have already 2 machins working with us. It is possible that in the near future we look for other machines and I am just wondering which places near Barcelona could I find. For the moment I have find plastic hub its seems really interesting but just wondering if there are other interested places that could sheep to Barcelona with a short period of time (1-2 month for machine)

Nacnud

Has it worked before and has only started acting up? Or is this unit still not commissioned?

Check and see if the thermocouple is broken, to check hook up to a vom. To if you have a thermocouple input connect to that then use a heater that will get as hot as your oven and see if it stops reading then cools and starts reading. Check if your controller does a thermocouple test or sense and what it does in failure. You can also use ma meter, very low voltage meter maybe a us meter. Be sure all of the connections on thermocouple wires are not oxidized or discolored and tight.

2:12 AM

If it a thermistor same sort of test but hook up to the ohms on vom.

hello. what is a good standard thread size for injection molds?

Hi All, I am trying to assemble the Shredder V2. I notice on the original video the drilling out of the holes for bolting the bearings on the side. There is no documentation about this or the dimensions of the milling of those holes to make the bolt heads flush on the inside of the shredder box. I thought about just welding some studs into the holes and grinding off the inside slag. Can someone please advise what they did and how? Many Thanks, Geoff.

ccarrilloo

Hello guys, havent been able to find the diameter to roll in this part, does anyone knows it or knows where can I find it?

128mm?

Hi all I am working on extrusion mechanism, can you suggest me the right PID for temperature setting?

@Sarmila . Yeah, that deserves a few wiki pages. Often you can look up the recommended nozzle temperature per plastic type. But that's not the end of the story. Ideally, you want a stream of plastic coming out, having no stains, air voids, islands, etc.. .You want basically the same when you squeeze toothpaste out, a nice flow of honey like liquid.

Set the same temperature for all temperature controllers - the barrel is really short and bigger flakes are not beneficial either
Start with lower extrusion speeds and work your way up, you can pause the extruder for some moments to see what's coming out when you restart it to get an idea how long & slow it has to be extruded
Check that the cooled down plastic looks exactly the same as the flakes - to make sure you didn't overburn it (becomes browner) - you can use histograms in picture editors to be sure
some plastic can be highly reactive when it leaves the extruder and is exposed to room temperature, so you have to check this with a test mould
test moulds help to identify other problems such as stresses created by big flakes (warping), too fast extruding, etc.. .
The heat bands do indeed act more like lubricant, there is lots of heat created by the friction of the screw alone . try lower PID temperatures first.

Now you should have a baseline and you're ready to fiddle out the flow through adapters and moulds which also need to be heated often. (edited)

1

I have got REX C100 temperature controller, did I but the right one?

will do, yes - there is an auto-tune function you should run, after insulating the barrel well with wool

What would you guys think upgrade wise would speed up production of parts on the injection machine?

Hi, I just want to say that I love all of you for helping to clean up our planet! I am so excited about the prospect of becoming a recycler and helping to clean up the plastic waste in Ghana, Africa. I plan to visit the Portland Oregon machine shop In November when I return from buying land in Ghana. Can I directly support the machine shop in Portland?

1

Steam

What would you guys think upgrade wise would speed up production of parts on the injection machine?

better ram/lever designs, bigger barrels allowing multiple molds in a single shot,faster heatingw

sponsoons

better ram/lever designs, bigger barrels allowing multiple molds in a single shot,faster heatingw

Okay thanks

without much modifications to the actual design what you could do is -

6:43 PM

-add insulation/better insulation - this will allow faster+better heating thus allowing you to work faster (edited)

6:46 PM

-optimizing and making the mold design better by doing things like- reducing the size of runners,gates,other cavities and the part itself (edited)

6:47 PM

for doing this i found this helpful - https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/create/injection-moulds

6:51 PM

-optimizing the part to be molded by adding features like draft angles and ribs,fillets,holes,gussets for strength instead of just making the part thicker,this would allow you to reduce the thickness and volume of the part thus allowing you to make parts faster (edited)

-making minor modifications to the mold and using upgrades/modifications such as -a quick release for opening molds, Refinement to the Injection Nozzle and a quick release for connecting the mold itself to the machine (edited)

7:00 PM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection

7:01 PM

you can find the links for all of these at the bottom of this page

7:03 PM

-shredding the plastic finer or making it into a powder - this will allow you to fit more plastic into the barrels as the flakes take up more volume than the molten plastic (edited)

7:05 PM

-refining the workflow by :- (edited)

7:06 PM

-adding/creating schedules and timings- this would allow for less waiting around and lesser mistakes or errors and reduce wastage of time waiting for things like mold and part cooling and heating (edited)

7:08 PM

-pre-heating the mold-this allow the plastic to the injected quicker, however this could also lead the problems as the part wont then cooldown fast enough, the solution would be to only heat specific parts of the mold such as the runners or the nozzle/connection between the machine and mold (edited)

7:10 PM

increasing the temp of the plastic-this requires experimentation and testing for you specific plastic but this would allow you work faster as it would take less time for the plastic to fill the mold as the plastic will be less viscous

Edit this to change the output of the custom command 1!

-making a bigger hopper/adding extensions to the hopper- this would mean less time spent refilling the hopper as well as less time used in heating the plastic as it will already be slightly heated from the hopper

7:16 PM

-reducing the path between the part being molded and the nozzle- this would lead to less plastic used which means that you can work faster and will allow you to fit more parts per mold

7:18 PM

-adding more parts per mold- this would allow you to make more parts at once thus saving time but would mean that the material and thus mold cost and complexity would be increased (edited)

YAGPDB.xyz

Edit this to change the output of the custom command 1!

@deleted-role what does this message mean and do i need to do anything about it?

7:21 PM

@Steam what ive listed above is pretty much all i could think of for speeding up the process of production of parts on the injection machine

@sponsoons on fire

If you don't mind, I carried it over to a hackmd document : https://hackmd.io/7PPYAtDwTYKQes6v_heX0w

7:21 PM

I am adding more notes later on

The Unreal Precious Plastic

@sponsoons on fire

If you don't mind, I carried it over to a hackmd document : https://hackmd.io/7PPYAtDwTYKQes6v_heX0w

thanks for doing that,is there anything i need to do to/in that doccument?

nah, I am collecting it just, you can keep firing here

ah ok,thanks a lot

7:30 PM

@Steam most of these are fairly cheap and dont require much effort or money however most of the upgrades/mods with larger impacts on the speed and efficiency will however take take more money and resources

7:34 PM

this is rather large wall of text but I hope these help you in what you are try to achieve (edited)

sponsoons

@Steam most of these are fairly cheap and dont require much effort or money however most of the upgrades/mods with larger impacts on the speed and efficiency will however take take more money and resources

Thank you for this in depth upgrade guide

Hey everyone, I have an important question and i hope it doesnt come across stupid

7:44 PM

I have a thermocouple with the screw end fitting, but its a little difficult to attach it to my pipe or inbetween the band heater

7:44 PM

would i be able to remove the screw part off and make it work like that or ?

7:45 PM

Also, I can send a picture if it makes it more clear to understand, any help would be appreciated

7:47 PM

please send a message and @ me here or send me a dm

'would i be able to remove the screw part off and make it work like that or ' : not really - it would go banana afterwards ...

Find a way instead to screw into a nut being preferable welded on a metal belt (most hardware shops have this). Does this make sense ?

hmmm, thats a bummer, makes it so much more complicated than it needs to be which is sad. i understand the screw into the nut, but not entirely sure about the metal belt to be honest, what do you mean by that?

7:54 PM

it is one of these

7:54 PM

7:55 PM

not with the other attachment of course

7:55 PM

so then another dumb question, does the end of that thermocouple need to be touching my pipe in order to read the temperature

Metal belt, this here is rather a bigger version but your hardware store guy will understand :

ahh i see i see

yes- you want really good contact

7:57 PM

i see

7:58 PM

so there is no way for me to modify it like this

7:59 PM

what thermocouple do they use in the video for the injection machine, that one seems easy to just slide in

well, this one you could somehow mount somewhere on the heatband but doesn't give really good measuring - if you isolate it with wool, it can be ok though

8:00 PM

there is lot's of things they didn't show in the video

- sorry about that

8:02 PM

anyway, normally you get the thermocouple, SSR (relay) and the PID (temperature controller) as set on ebay or amazon

8:03 PM

they're mostly threaded, some of them (inkbird) imperial

i see, but if i do it with the metal belt and the nut, will it give an accurate reading that way atleast?

it's about 70 - 80% accurate, yes

is that good enough though? any way to get a more accurate reading?

it's good enough when you're a patient guy and take it into account during evaluation of your melt. the other variant is to drill and tap the barrel - needs extra care to avoid collisions with the screw (edited)

yeah i dont want to do it that way, not at all tbh, i guess i will try the metal belt and the nut

8:08 PM

thank you for all your help, i appreciate it

you're welcome, have fun

/puppy

would i be able to remove the screw part off and make it work like that or ?

If you just want to get up and running, you can just tuck the thermocouple into a hose clamp (pic). You'll be off a couple degrees on your pipe from what's shown on the controller though, so be aware that you're actually hotter than indicated.

10:39 PM

It's much better to mount it properly though.

12:01 AM

Nut TIG'd to a small tab.

/puppy

I have a thermocouple with the screw end fitting, but its a little difficult to attach it to my pipe or inbetween the band heater

Look at this thread, 5th answer : https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/the-big-electronics-topic/

Jerry de Vos

The big ELECTRONICS topic - Dave Hakkens

Hi Guys, I’ve been around now for a couple of months and I see a lot of the same questions related to electronics. In this topic I would like to answer some of these questions. In general - Dave Hakkens

@sonik @CitSciWorkshop @Erik72 thank you for all your help , i appreciate it

I have another question if anyone has the time. is there specific settings i need to put in for my PID controller in order to use for the band heaters? if you can help please @ me or send me a dm

/puppy

i see, but if i do it with the metal belt and the nut, will it give an accurate reading that way atleast?

Put a little layer of thermal conductive paste between the tube and the thermocouple (and also between the band heater and the tube), it is the best way to have accurate readings and less power waste since it helps the thermal conductivity even if there are a little space between some parts of the heater and the tube.

/puppy

I have another question if anyone has the time. is there specific settings i need to put in for my PID controller in order to use for the band heaters? if you can help please @ me or send me a dm

Each PID controller will have different settings, if you give us the make/model we would be able to answer that question better, but you should be okay with the default settings. (edited)

@Erik72 i got the rex c100

/puppy

@Erik72 i got the rex c100

I looked up the instructions for that controller, it does have an auto tuning function, which should meet all of your needs perfectly. Set that to 0001 to enable.

okay so that seems perfect, just setting that and the right temperature obviously would be fine for me?

Hello, new here. I have a question: what is the best way to modify a motor shaft so I can mate it with a gear/gearbox? I salvaged a 2.25HP treadmill motor, and it has a pulley-style shaft head. I want to use gears for my machine, not belts. I'm thinking I could just turn the motor on and use it like a lathe, grinding the shaft head down until it will fit an appropriate sized gear. I don't have a lathe. Anyone had this issue before? Thanks, Neil

Hi @Precious Plastic is it possible to make a plastic lumber in an open molder? The molder is about 12in only and at the end of that is a roller conveyor with cold water that is 20-60°C. If ever do you also have any related studies having that design? Thank youu

6:03 AM

and now onto the electronics xD

Hi, I'm wondering if there are any guides on nozzles, I'm building my first injection machine. I've been in over my head since I started but the nozzle is the last thing left for me to work out

Bird

Hi, I'm wondering if there are any guides on nozzles, I'm building my first injection machine. I've been in over my head since I started but the nozzle is the last thing left for me to work out

I don't want to use a screw on nozzle I'm looking for a non screw type attachment but I don't know exactly what to ask for

Hi everyone. I'm looking for a UK based machine shop that could supply a shredder (without motor) and an extruder (with motor) could anyone advise a shop that could help?

Hi you all! I would need your help on an extruder maschine as well! We build it but the problems is that in the end the plastic harderns and we get like a blop in the end. We are now wondering how to solve this problem? We were thinking of an rotation part in fornt of it to cut this of maybe?

11:51 AM

okay thank you! Our problem is more that the things we form out of the plastic are just easy and small ones and as we are doing it for students - the problem is that is harderns to quick to do like more of them in a row after a time

2:11 PM

@The Unreal Precious Plastic

Deleted User

Hi you all! I would need your help on an extruder maschine as well! We build it but the problems is that in the end the plastic harderns and we get like a blop in the end. We are now wondering how to solve this problem? We were thinking of an rotation part in fornt of it to cut this of maybe?

there are two solutions i can think of for this one komatom said you heat/insulate the mold- this can be done with band heaters for bigger/longer/costlier objects, with a heat/hot air gun as an improvised method especially if the problem is mainly near the nozzle [this would work well for when you have many small objects/molds to make and fill] and the last method is preheating the mold by putting it in an oven[as with the heat gun this method is for when you need to do many small objects and molds] -however the only thing about using the oven method is that you have to be very careful while removing the mold from the oven and putting it on the extruder

Deleted User

Click to see attachment 🖼️

if the problem occurs with things like longer beams and profiles like the pics you've posted than you need to add heating of some kind, the problem is that while it is easy to add only one band heater for the front/part near the nozzle, adding many band heater can very quickly get very costly, dangerous and time taking/annoying the solution for this would be to use heating tape or the best one which is just nichrome or heating resistance wire as it is both cheap to install and use as well as easier to use and can be left on the mold since it is not very costly, if and when using resistance/heating wire it is best to add a layer of electrical insulation between the mold and and wire and heat insulation over the wire to keep the heat in and prevent accidents and damage

3:12 PM

as for what temp to set the mold to you can refer to the industrial manuals/datasheets for plastic properties and temps as most of them list the mold temp

3:12 PM

i hope this was helpful

https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/new-extruding-beam-technique/

3:23 PM

heres the link for the method using heating wire however you should also add insulation over and around the wire/mold so there is no chance of anybody burning or otherwise injuring themsleves

Hi all, I want to build a shredder hopper with at least one clear side panel so the shredding can be viewed from the side (like a window). What materials would be good for this?

500k9_bees

Hi all, I want to build a shredder hopper with at least one clear side panel so the shredding can be viewed from the side (like a window). What materials would be good for this?

either poly carb or acrylic would be fine for the window. You might choose a thickness that is appropriate for the size of machine and material being shredded. 3mm might be fine for a small unit, 6mm+ for larger machines.

1

norourke71

Hello, new here. I have a question: what is the best way to modify a motor shaft so I can mate it with a gear/gearbox? I salvaged a 2.25HP treadmill motor, and it has a pulley-style shaft head. I want to use gears for my machine, not belts. I'm thinking I could just turn the motor on and use it like a lathe, grinding the shaft head down until it will fit an appropriate sized gear. I don't have a lathe. Anyone had this issue before? Thanks, Neil

BUMP

norourke71

Hello, new here. I have a question: what is the best way to modify a motor shaft so I can mate it with a gear/gearbox? I salvaged a 2.25HP treadmill motor, and it has a pulley-style shaft head. I want to use gears for my machine, not belts. I'm thinking I could just turn the motor on and use it like a lathe, grinding the shaft head down until it will fit an appropriate sized gear. I don't have a lathe. Anyone had this issue before? Thanks, Neil

Since you asked what the best way is, I would say buy a gear that matches your motor shaft diameter, or to ream out the gear's center to match the shaft. Yes, you could theoretically spin the motor to act as its own lathe. But if you are asking the question, you probably do not have the tools to do that safely? If you really want to make the motor shaft a smaller diameter, you should remove it from the motor, and put the shaft on a real lathe.

Erik72

Since you asked what the best way is, I would say buy a gear that matches your motor shaft diameter, or to ream out the gear's center to match the shaft. Yes, you could theoretically spin the motor to act as its own lathe. But if you are asking the question, you probably do not have the tools to do that safely? If you really want to make the motor shaft a smaller diameter, you should remove it from the motor, and put the shaft on a real lathe.

thank you for the response. Could a metal file do the job? I would ream out a gear however the shaft head is quite large, 1.2 inches. it's just a cap, really. the real shaft is smaller. but the cap has a flywheel attached to it, which I would like to keep. I have a variable DC power supply so I can keep the rpm low, I just don't want metal filings gumming up the magnets inside the stator...

norourke71

thank you for the response. Could a metal file do the job? I would ream out a gear however the shaft head is quite large, 1.2 inches. it's just a cap, really. the real shaft is smaller. but the cap has a flywheel attached to it, which I would like to keep. I have a variable DC power supply so I can keep the rpm low, I just don't want metal filings gumming up the magnets inside the stator...

What are you specifically asking about the metal file? Filing down the motor shaft? If so, I would not recommend it, I would hate to see anybody lose a finger.... but I imagine it as possible. I'm still a little vague on what we are talking about, exactly what you are trying to do? Could you use a coupler to transition to different shafts? What size shaft are you trying to go to, and from?

Erik72

What are you specifically asking about the metal file? Filing down the motor shaft? If so, I would not recommend it, I would hate to see anybody lose a finger.... but I imagine it as possible. I'm still a little vague on what we are talking about, exactly what you are trying to do? Could you use a coupler to transition to different shafts? What size shaft are you trying to go to, and from?

please see picture. I have mounted my motor on a table. the shaft head there is 1.2", and meant for a belt. I am looking to "convert" it so it accepts a gear. once that is done I will need to make a gear reduction box that will then drive the shredder.

You should take the pulley off the motor. In your picture, you are set up like this:

9:30 PM

After you take the pulley off, it should look like this, and should be able to find a gear to fit it

Erik72

After you take the pulley off, it should look like this, and should be able to find a gear to fit it

okay, thankyou. is a flywheel not important for this kind of process? that's the main reason I didn't want to remove the shaft head

A flywheel would help you maintain momentum on the other side of the gearbox (the output), but if you put it in-between the motor & gearbox you are really just causing more startup strain.

Erik72

A flywheel would help you maintain momentum on the other side of the gearbox (the output), but if you put it in-between the motor & gearbox you are really just causing more startup strain.

understood, thank you very much

9:39 PM

You're very welcome!

Can someone explain me the mechanism with this temperature controller reading?

Sarmila

Can someone explain me the mechanism with this temperature controller reading?

the green number is the temperature target that you've set, and the red number is the temp that the sensor is reading.

norourke71

Hello, new here. I have a question: what is the best way to modify a motor shaft so I can mate it with a gear/gearbox? I salvaged a 2.25HP treadmill motor, and it has a pulley-style shaft head. I want to use gears for my machine, not belts. I'm thinking I could just turn the motor on and use it like a lathe, grinding the shaft head down until it will fit an appropriate sized gear. I don't have a lathe. Anyone had this issue before? Thanks, Neil

You have to make the gear hole to fit precisely on the motor shaft. Any modification of the shaft with any tool different from a precise metalworkig tooling give you shitty result. Metalworking isn't for dummies. Ask a lathe machinist... However, what is the motor speed? High speed (more than 100/150rpm) means precise and well lubricated gears, to achieve durability.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

You have to make the gear hole to fit precisely on the motor shaft. Any modification of the shaft with any tool different from a precise metalworkig tooling give you shitty result. Metalworking isn't for dummies. Ask a lathe machinist... However, what is the motor speed? High speed (more than 100/150rpm) means precise and well lubricated gears, to achieve durability.

I'm not sure the max rpm. it is a DC motor, so speed is variable.

norourke71

I'm not sure the max rpm. it is a DC motor, so speed is variable.

If you reduce the speed you reduce also the power given to the machine, with a PWM you give it pulses of current, but pratically (not precisely, but for having an idea) at 50% speed you have 50% power. Since that motor have a Poly-V pulley, try to find a big pulley to allow the motor running at his maximum speed, and start with the speed you have at the big pulley to calculate how much reduction you gonna need to run the shredder. Just a suggestion from one who have some experience in mechanics...

Hi everyone, I was looking at the specs for the grinder and it says it does not recommend grinding PET/ type 1 plastic. (It lists types 2, 4,5, and 6.) Does anyone know why?

PET is tougher, reduces life of blades, and doesn't have as many outputs for circular process like melting into molds or extruding in general for the Precious Plastic ecosystem. You can grind PET to some extent, but not much the machines are readily capable of beyond that.

CitSciWorkshop

PET is tougher, reduces life of blades, and doesn't have as many outputs for circular process like melting into molds or extruding in general for the Precious Plastic ecosystem. You can grind PET to some extent, but not much the machines are readily capable of beyond that.

Okay, thanks. I didn't realise it was tougher, since HDPE containers like milk jugs seem to be more stiff and thick than PET disposable water bottles

What materials can be used for a shredder hopper? The specs describe 1 mm steel- could aluminum or another material be used?

500k9_bees

What materials can be used for a shredder hopper? The specs describe 1 mm steel- could aluminum or another material be used?

From my experience, steel is better. Sometime if you shred thick plastic, it happens that for a moment the plastic can be pushed by the blade against the hopper, for example, it happens to me shredding turning insert boxes that I collect aty job, that are long enough to be sometime kept between the blades and the hopper. With steel one the box will slide, with 1mm thick aluminum there is the risk that the hopper can bend.

1

9:41 PM

Im building the injection molding machine and I am wondering if I should use a copper pipe instead of a steel one to better conduct the heat

Hey Richard I am as well but am having trouble finding correct tubing in the united states. What source are you using? I would suggest using steel tube for strength. You can insulate the steel tube to improve heating efficiency.

Definitely use steel. Copper won't hold up to the pressure very well.

11:12 PM

Steel DOM tube is seamless and comes in proper ID/OD and wall thickness for barrels. (edited)

1

I’m right now building a sprinkler system that uses pressure that is hand pressed and squirts out water through sprinkler systems above my plants are tomatoes and grapes there PVC pipes but I am unsure if I should use a different material?

PVC is pretty common for plumbing. What are your main concerns?

Hi! I hope someone can help me with a question about the electrical motors for the shredder and the extruder. Do we really need 330Nm on the shredder? And on the extruder? Thank you for any answers!

Hanne

Hi! I hope someone can help me with a question about the electrical motors for the shredder and the extruder. Do we really need 330Nm on the shredder? And on the extruder? Thank you for any answers!

Yes you do, and that is near the minimum for the Basic Shredder. the Basic Extrusion says 109Nm so you have a little room there.

Hello! Is there a resource for creating thick sheets (>20mm or so) with the sheet press? I can't seem to find any good resource for it.

Hello all, looking for some elaboration on the V4 shredder. I’m looking for a gear motor configuration that will satisfy the requirement on the website. But it seems that the numbers don’t exactly work together. From a vendor in my country in order to get the 1100Nm to 2200 Nm torque range (9680 in-lb to 19,360 in-lb) it’s coming out to a 11 kW (15 hp) motor driven gear reducer. Am I missing something? It just doesn’t seem right and even when trying to spec a motor with the website on the BOM (yr.com) from the download kit the torque and kW rating don’t seem to match up for example to get to the 1100 Nm torque the smallest motor is coming out to 5.5 kW.

Nacnud

Hello all, looking for some elaboration on the V4 shredder. I’m looking for a gear motor configuration that will satisfy the requirement on the website. But it seems that the numbers don’t exactly work together. From a vendor in my country in order to get the 1100Nm to 2200 Nm torque range (9680 in-lb to 19,360 in-lb) it’s coming out to a 11 kW (15 hp) motor driven gear reducer. Am I missing something? It just doesn’t seem right and even when trying to spec a motor with the website on the BOM (yr.com) from the download kit the torque and kW rating don’t seem to match up for example to get to the 1100 Nm torque the smallest motor is coming out to 5.5 kW.

I can help you with sourcing for North America. I believe some of my suppliers ship directly to AB too.

CitSciWorkshop

I can help you with sourcing for North America. I believe some of my suppliers ship directly to AB too.

Ok perfect, but am I crazy? Or do these numbers not work together? I feel like I’m missing something. (edited)

It might be a matter of finding the right gear reduction. You should by able to use a 5hp motor, match the kw'age, and get the correct mechanical output torque in range.

https://youtube.com/shorts/VJt2JvMAak0?feature=share changing the injection molder funnel

Precious Plastic Philippines

Manual plastic injection molder upgrade

Can someone explain me, what the blink in the controller is for?

2:48 PM

And is it like if we set 130 for PV., temperature doesnot go higher than this right?

green colour number is the temperature you aim for, when it reaches it, it sends signal to the heaters to stop working until temperature goes back under the aimed one (edited)

We would like to buy a ready-made industrial extruder and adapt it for the production of beams. Please tell me, what should be the productivity, kg of plastic per hour, to extrude 2-2.5 m beams?

#archived-machines

Nick - PP France

green colour number is the temperature you aim for, when it reaches it, it sends signal to the heaters to stop working until temperature goes back under the aimed one (edited)

If the melting temperature of plastic is 150 degree lets say, should the PV be set to 150?

if it's for an extrusion machine, i'd rather use 20-30°C above melting temp, cuz if the temperature is too low, plastic won't be melted enough and can harm your machine

4:34 PM

if you see fumes coming out, slowly bring the temp down, but keep careful concerning what i wrote just above

1

so If I set the PV to 170 degree, lets say the temperature in extruder is maintained within that limit, right? It never exceeds the PV value ?

4:37 PM

Measured value doesnot exceed the Set value, if I am not wrong

this depends on the insulation of your extruder; i actually had to get rid of mine because the friction happening inside the extruder+insulation was making the temperature rise 30-40°C above targeted temperature

make sense

4:41 PM

what material did u use for insulation?

@teblamokgosi pls talk to me im in Gaborone

PSPlastic

Hello! Is there a resource for creating thick sheets (>20mm or so) with the sheet press? I can't seem to find any good resource for it.

Anyone have any ideas on this?

https://pidexplained.com/pid-controller-explained/ re controllers and how they work

PID Controller Explained • PID Explained

PID controllers explained! An easy to follow article on how a Proporional Integral Derivative controller works and the math behind it.

Hello. I am about to purchase a cnc machine for machining aluminum molds. I used a Chinese 3 axis cnc machine (600*900mm 2.2kw), but I want to buy a new and better machine. Can someone recommend another machine that is smaller size and easier to work with?

Hello everyone! does somebody have the CAD files of the basic shredder (not the pro one)

Same question, does anyone have the CAD files of the basics machines?

Jaeman

Hello. I am about to purchase a cnc machine for machining aluminum molds. I used a Chinese 3 axis cnc machine (600*900mm 2.2kw), but I want to buy a new and better machine. Can someone recommend another machine that is smaller size and easier to work with?

something cast iron and likely you need larger and more mass. ACC Tek has a 6090 router with over 3kw spindle and coolant tray that is pretty nice

@PituGiaculli @lu_nares94 Here! https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/

@CitSciWorkshop Grazie mile!

Lieto di aiutarla!

1

PSPlastic

Hello! Is there a resource for creating thick sheets (>20mm or so) with the sheet press? I can't seem to find any good resource for it.

Hello! We haven't found a resource just yet but we have made some 25 mm sheets. We keep it pretty much at the same temperature and increased the time. We started with the calculation that it's around 4 minutes for every mm (so 100 mins for a 25), but ended up reducing that a bit. Depending on your machine this might vary a little so it's a good idea to do experiments.

Does anyone know what this is? It was part of the electrical connection for my shredder motor. It was sitting between a 2CR start relay and a start capacitor

9:55 AM

It overheated when the motor moved a little (didn't fully secure it yet during testing)

9:56 AM

I think the motor faced too much resistance due to the shifted angle between the motor and the shredder axel

That looks like ceramic, I'd guess that it's an overcurrent fuseable link. Are there any numbering/letters on the other side?

tomvb

It overheated when the motor moved a little (didn't fully secure it yet during testing)

Looks like a resistor

Nacnud

Looks like a resistor

I suppose you're right, fuses tend to be round, I guess. Definitely could be a resistor. I'd still love to know if there's any numbering/lettering, even if it's partial.

Erik72

I suppose you're right, fuses tend to be round, I guess. Definitely could be a resistor. I'd still love to know if there's any numbering/lettering, even if it's partial.

Yah you will definitely need those to get a proper replacement

Erik72

That looks like ceramic, I'd guess that it's an overcurrent fuseable link. Are there any numbering/letters on the other side?

Nothing that even resembles any lettering or numbering

7:39 PM

But I found the wiring diagram, it’s a pre-resistor (PV in the diagram)

7:40 PM

Now I just have to figure out the wattage and the ohms

7:40 PM

The diagram shows two of the “RV”, is it possible it’s the “RE”(bleed off resistor)?

tomvb

Nothing that even resembles any lettering or numbering

what is the make/model of the motor? Is it possible to contact the manufacturer for replacement parts or the specs?

Nacnud

The diagram shows two of the “RV”, is it possible it’s the “RE”(bleed off resistor)?

Judging from the diagram and how it matches the wiring, I don’t think so no

9:20 AM

It’s a Siemens CAF38-AK90LP4

9:21 AM

It’s an older refurbished one, I’m not too hopeful on them having any replacement parts

It is a stretch looking for replacement parts, but they should be able to give you the original parts specification, so you can find a replacement from somewhere else. https://new.siemens.com/us/en/products/services/digital-enterprise-services/spare-parts-services.html

Spare Parts Services

Identify and order original spare parts from Siemens for automation, drives, and machine tools.

Will give that a try, thanks!

@tomvb pocture looks like a power resistor.

Hey Everyone! Would anyone know if there are any examples of a standard sheet size (1.2m x 2.4m) Sheet press machine.

Hey guys. Im wondering if anyone knows of an online resource for 3d models i can use for my injection moulding machine moulds?

10:31 AM

i just need some buttons and things but 3d prinder resources are not proving very good for this

Hi all, Does anyone know of any simplified CAD files for shredder/extrusion pro and sheetpress? I only need them for space planning/rendering and the full assemblies from the website download are huge,

10:42 AM

Ta

Sargasso

Hey guys. Im wondering if anyone knows of an online resource for 3d models i can use for my injection moulding machine moulds?

you want 3d models for injection molds?

sponsoons

you want 3d models for injection molds?

I do. Is there a resource out there?

Sargasso

I do. Is there a resource out there?

sorry for the delay in replying, a great source for free 3d models esp injection molds is grabcad, however many of the models/molds there have a slight problem is that they might be too complicated for the hobby level and the other thing is that they may be visual/decorative models that require corrections/modification to function properly

7:22 PM

https://grabcad.com/chris.luizzi-2/models

Chris Luizzi | CAD Models | GrabCAD

3D CAD models designed by GrabCAD Community member Chris Luizzi

7:23 PM

However this is my favorite source for injection mold 3d files as his files are properly made,and dont have much problems

7:24 PM

the best thing- Theyre all free

7:25 PM

another thing is that most if not all of his molds are simpler two part molds which means they wont be too complicated and should work with the injection/extrusion and most of the other precious plastic and hobby machines

7:25 PM

he also has a very wide variety of molds

7:26 PM

however something you will need to do is after making the mold you will need to attach a adapter/connection to the mold so that it can properly connect or fit onto you machine

7:29 PM

as always be sure to do your own research and checks before putting any money into anything and remember none of us constitute professional advice and you should always get a second opinions before dong anything major

7:29 PM

another thing related to his molds would be to make sure that you method of making the mold can handle the detail required by the mold/part

7:32 PM

other than that youre all set cuz that from my experience is a solid source for free mold files and designs

Sargasso

I do. Is there a resource out there?

sadly there isnt any one unified resource for it but the ones I've mentioned above are pretty damn good and what i like most is a lot of them are for cool objects and parts you can show off or market very well

7:37 PM

hes also got a ton of functional objects which are damn helpful

7:38 PM

almost of his molds appear to be 3D printed but im quite sure you could make it easily with other methods too

7:39 PM

some random ones i like or thought would make good recycled products :-

7:39 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-drain-cover-trinota-1

7:41 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-set-for-helmet-hook-assem-trinota-1

7:41 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-slingshot-trinota-1

7:41 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-custom-chopstick-trinota-1

7:42 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-screwdriver-trinota-1

7:42 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-ninja-star-trinota-1

7:44 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-throwing-knives-trinota-1

7:44 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-tactical-knife-trinota-1

7:44 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-cellphone-holder-trinota-1

7:45 PM

this one should be a bit complicated but still a good classic nevertheless https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-lego-trinota-1

7:47 PM

all of the molds and parts I've linked are those I believe you should have no problem whatsoever in making and selling but are still cool products

7:49 PM

since parts and products meant to be used with food and body have a lot more restrictions, regulations and tests etc needed they are best to stay away from esp with recycled plastics

7:49 PM

the above parts contain none of these and should still be quite safe and interesting

7:50 PM

I hope this was helpful to you, let me know if this helps you and if you need anything else

7:50 PM

if anybody else feels like making any additions to the above please feel free to do so

This is wonderful, Thanks so much Sponsoons

I'm currently a student at University of Tasmania, and had been considering whether to look into making the Sheet Press an Industry 4.0 machine with data collection/exporting, 8"-10" inch touch screen industrial display with web & app interface for remote & local monitoring, additional safety in design components and plastics inventory control. Bearing in mind that the cost for this would add several thousand dollars to the initial cost of the standard design. Before heading down the design & build path, I am wanting to know what people preferred with the sheet press they would want or that they've already built and/or used :-

Using the easy "one switch" operation of the traditional design? or

Would a pricier unit with all the bells and whistles and greater control be preferred?

Thanks in advance.

Can some one suggest me what type of enclosure is suitable for PID Temperature controller used for extrusion mechanism

most people dont think too much about it and build a box out of OSB. Easy to assemble, easy to manually cut holes for the buttons and displays. I personally had a bad experience with a failing SSR and i got really scared of burning. The cleanest/professional would be a lasercut + bent thin sheet of steel/stainless steel (i think aluminum is bad practice regarding grounding but im not sure). Not that expensive and i think there are tools to get the .dwg drawn out of size parameters.

Hi! I have a question! I'm wanting to build an injection machine and install it at my school as my project, but I'm struggling finding information of the toxins and fumes this machine will put out. Are these fumes illegal in TN? Does this machine need to be under a fume hood? Any advice would be very much appreciated, thank you!!

emerson

Hi! I have a question! I'm wanting to build an injection machine and install it at my school as my project, but I'm struggling finding information of the toxins and fumes this machine will put out. Are these fumes illegal in TN? Does this machine need to be under a fume hood? Any advice would be very much appreciated, thank you!!

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety

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3

I'm looking to build a modified log splitter injection machine per this page https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/log-splitter-injector-upgrade however the potential pressure generated by a 5 ton log splitter (~55Mpa in a 1 inch inner diameter tube) is pretty dangerous. The recommended operation for this machine is to be careful and monitor the pressure vessel but I'd like to try something else: Has anyone attempted to derate the motor to limit the maximum pressure applied by the splitter? (edited)

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A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

muxl

I'm looking to build a modified log splitter injection machine per this page https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/log-splitter-injector-upgrade however the potential pressure generated by a 5 ton log splitter (~55Mpa in a 1 inch inner diameter tube) is pretty dangerous. The recommended operation for this machine is to be careful and monitor the pressure vessel but I'd like to try something else: Has anyone attempted to derate the motor to limit the maximum pressure applied by the splitter? (edited)

I haven’t played around with using the hydraulics or derating the motor. But I have thought about it and I think the ideal solution is to add instrumentation and automation to measure the pressure and cut off the motor when the predetermined pressure set point is reached.

1

I would add an adjustable hydraulic pressure relief valve (and gauge), that way you can port the fluid back to the reservoir when you reach the pressure you want. I don't know for sure that it would work, but that is what I would try. I imagine that would be simpler, more adjustable, & less expensive than dialing the motor back.

Very interesting. I'll consider both of these suggestions! Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

Hi all. I think I've already asked this question but I can't find he answer anymore. Sorry for that in advance. I am thinking about building the extruder and shredder but I live in a very corrosive environment (sea side in the Caribbean Islands). Which parts of the machine do you recommend to apply a treatment and/or change material? Which material though? Thanks for your return of experience!!

Found it! https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/598887270636060694/869601131872002138 My first reaction was "stainless steel" but I'm not super knowledgeable about metal corrosion so I thought to go digging for the prior discussion. Seems like some good ideas in there.

I was looking for plastic related issues that my mechanical engineering capstone group and I could possibly solve. I heard that @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto might be able assist us. Any problem ideas would be a great help.

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto, can you please see if you can help @TheRenegadeFox , he has some specific questions in regard to a University Project.

TheRenegadeFox

I was looking for plastic related issues that my mechanical engineering capstone group and I could possibly solve. I heard that @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto might be able assist us. Any problem ideas would be a great help.

Hi, what are the questions?

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Hi, what are the questions?

I was just wondering if there were any specific plastic issues that haven't been solved. Was also hoping that those problems were centered around a more hands on mechanical solution for the Capstone project my group and I are working on.

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Hi, what are the questions?

Initially we were planning on making a die press for plastic bags but found out that plastic bags are already being made into pellets at certain recycling sites. However this process requires a lot of energy so the press idea might be able to actually reduce the amount used vs a typical shredder.

muxl

I'm looking to build a modified log splitter injection machine per this page https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/log-splitter-injector-upgrade however the potential pressure generated by a 5 ton log splitter (~55Mpa in a 1 inch inner diameter tube) is pretty dangerous. The recommended operation for this machine is to be careful and monitor the pressure vessel but I'd like to try something else: Has anyone attempted to derate the motor to limit the maximum pressure applied by the splitter? (edited)

Best thing to do is allow a large blow off gate at the end of the mould to allow excess plastic to flow from. Second is dosing the exact amount of plastic per shot for a given part. Third is putting marks on the injector piston to control stroke length such that you do not travel that point. Hope this helps

Hi all, please see attached picture. It is a quick modeling idea for how I want to design my gears for my shredder. I see a lot of shredder designs have the motor shaft coupled directly to one of the shredder shafts, but I would like to utilize a gear reduction to get more torque. Would my design pictured here work? Could anyone point me to a shredder design that uses a gear reduction?

norourke71

Hi all, please see attached picture. It is a quick modeling idea for how I want to design my gears for my shredder. I see a lot of shredder designs have the motor shaft coupled directly to one of the shredder shafts, but I would like to utilize a gear reduction to get more torque. Would my design pictured here work? Could anyone point me to a shredder design that uses a gear reduction?

I haven't seen many that have a gear reduction on the box unless you count the pully driven designs. Usually you see the gearboxes attaches directly to the motor and the output shaft might couple onto a box with something like your larger two gears as a simple opposed setup.

CitSciWorkshop

I haven't seen many that have a gear reduction on the box unless you count the pully driven designs. Usually you see the gearboxes attaches directly to the motor and the output shaft might couple onto a box with something like your larger two gears as a simple opposed setup.

Yes I've just been researching and It seems I'll need a gearbox. Do you have any recommendations? I have a treadmill motor with a 1/2" shaft. I'll also have to cut a keyway into it...

You'd likely need to use some version with an input and output shaft. Coupling will be simpler than trying to find a gearbox that fits the face. 30:1, 300Nm mamechanical output torque, basic specs to look for.

TheRenegadeFox

I was just wondering if there were any specific plastic issues that haven't been solved. Was also hoping that those problems were centered around a more hands on mechanical solution for the Capstone project my group and I are working on.

I think the biggest problem for a lot of us is the cleaning (I think PreciousPlastic in France is working on that) and plastic type identification (I hope @Jerry de Vos is still working on that ;)). Next problem is PET-recycling. I see a lot of 3D printing stuff with PET, looks like it works good with the sensible melting temperature for PET. If there is a good solution to shred PET-waste into very small powder and 3D printing that, that would be interesting

To recycle plastic bags from PP or LDPE I stack them together in a flat panini press and shred them then. (edited)

1

@norourke71 This Isnt a Gear reduction at all, and the way how the axle from the Motor is not really attached... this will Not Work so well (edited)

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

I think the biggest problem for a lot of us is the cleaning (I think PreciousPlastic in France is working on that) and plastic type identification (I hope @Jerry de Vos is still working on that ;)). Next problem is PET-recycling. I see a lot of 3D printing stuff with PET, looks like it works good with the sensible melting temperature for PET. If there is a good solution to shred PET-waste into very small powder and 3D printing that, that would be interesting

To recycle plastic bags from PP or LDPE I stack them together in a flat panini press and shred them then. (edited)

I'm working on the project of a washing system of "not too dirt" plastic, before shredding and for small batches, using a modified washing machine, and on my shredder, made with blades worked out from a solid steel bar. From the first test it seems that shredding LDPE film isn't a problem, but I have to do extensive test on it in next months. At now I'm restarting the project after a too hot summer to work in my garage...

Hi everyone, which material is better for the shredder, steel or stainless steel ?

HPS

Hi everyone, which material is better for the shredder, steel or stainless steel ?

Also depends on the place of use. In humid / salty surroundings it is better to use stainless steel. For the shaft, however, it is better to use a higher-strength steel. Which shredder do you want to build?

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Also depends on the place of use. In humid / salty surroundings it is better to use stainless steel. For the shaft, however, it is better to use a higher-strength steel. Which shredder do you want to build?

Hi thanks for the suggestion, I'm going to build shredder V2.1

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

I think the biggest problem for a lot of us is the cleaning (I think PreciousPlastic in France is working on that) and plastic type identification (I hope @Jerry de Vos is still working on that ;)). Next problem is PET-recycling. I see a lot of 3D printing stuff with PET, looks like it works good with the sensible melting temperature for PET. If there is a good solution to shred PET-waste into very small powder and 3D printing that, that would be interesting

To recycle plastic bags from PP or LDPE I stack them together in a flat panini press and shred them then. (edited)

Thank you very much Thomas I will definitely look into the PET area and possibly the cleaning one.

norourke71

Hi all, please see attached picture. It is a quick modeling idea for how I want to design my gears for my shredder. I see a lot of shredder designs have the motor shaft coupled directly to one of the shredder shafts, but I would like to utilize a gear reduction to get more torque. Would my design pictured here work? Could anyone point me to a shredder design that uses a gear reduction?

I have tried something similar. The only 2 problems that I Have found is the backlash of this array and the torsion generated while is working may change in various degrees the desired point of contact on the blades. In other word's you could get word's output and quality

Hello all, I’m a student at Millersville University. My department is looking to build a pro extruder. I’m wondering if there’s someone in Pennsylvania, or even the surrounding US who knows a good place to acquire a good extruder screw and barrel

Toyota Montoya

Hello all, I’m a student at Millersville University. My department is looking to build a pro extruder. I’m wondering if there’s someone in Pennsylvania, or even the surrounding US who knows a good place to acquire a good extruder screw and barrel

Robotdigg is a great source for screws and barrels. They don't have a Pro size barrel for some reason, but US suppliers in steel close to you might have DOM tool steel tubes that you can use. Please DM if you'd like to work in deeper detail. (edited)

@CitSciWorkshop I think they do on their aliexpress store?

Ah yeah, here is their full kit. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002386828500.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.20.51d62f6fK7a1R4

520.0US $ |30mm Diameter Injection/Extrusion Screw Kit for Precious...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

CitSciWorkshop

Robotdigg is a great source for screws and barrels. They don't have a Pro size barrel for some reason, but US suppliers in steel close to you might have DOM tool steel tubes that you can use. Please DM if you'd like to work in deeper detail. (edited)

Hey I tried to DM you but it isn’t going through

Toyota Montoya

Hey I tried to DM you but it isn’t going through

FR sent

Hello guys!

10:21 AM

I'm looking for help on building the plastic shredder

10:22 AM

Are there any blueprints/dxfs for cutting the sheets for this machine https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder ? If so then I cant find them

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I already found the shredder pro in the downloads but I want the smaller one with one shaft

CitSciWorkshop

Yes you do, and that is near the minimum for the Basic Shredder. the Basic Extrusion says 109Nm so you have a little room there.

Thank you for the verification!

I just discovered an issue with the shredder...I am assemblying it now - and I don't see how the measures are supposed to fit. The knifes builds 160mm in total - but the the drawing for the axel says 148mm hexagon part. So the knifes don't fit

1:01 PM

Hi everyone! I need some help. I want to open a workspace in Romania in the near future. Can someone help me with setting things up? I want to start small and maybe later, if things work out well, to build the pro version of the machines if it's needed.

@Hanne you only need 5 + 5 + 4 knife. (edited)

3:38 PM

And one less of the pieces ( knife spacer, etc...)

PPCapiSpain

@Hanne you only need 5 + 5 + 4 knife. (edited)

Yes, you are right...it made sense when I put the other sheets/walls on it

Thank you! :9

If you need help, contact me, ok?

tobanga

Are there any blueprints/dxfs for cutting the sheets for this machine https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder ? If so then I cant find them

Download this one

tobanga

Are there any blueprints/dxfs for cutting the sheets for this machine https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder ? If so then I cant find them

Or have a look into the new shredder design here: https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/

Thanks @Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

12:58 PM

somehow I ended up designing it myself from scratch yesterday, I'm almost done

12:58 PM

12:59 PM

I'm using 13 blades of 1mm thickness

here's a pic with the rotational offset

1:40 PM

lol i meant 10mm sheet thickness

What is the best way to weld the shredder

1:04 AM

I don't have access to any shielding gas

@richrd consider stick weld or flux cored wire. If you have a stainless box it will be difficult or near impossible without shielding gas. It really needs a clean TIG weld job. An alternative maybe silver solder (Not plumbing solder) and flux (borax) but it requires knowing preheat temps and a fair amount of practice. Consider outsourcing it to someone. If it is not welded well it is going to become a nightmare... (edited)

Ok thanks for the feedback

does anyone do annealing of their sheets to get them perfectly flat?

3:50 PM

Just received shredder parts from laser shop

3:51 PM

Waiting for the axe part

Hey everyone. I'm happy to be here. @HPS I'm kind of at the same stage as you, though I cannot tell if you've got the brand new shredder box that's all bolted together or the old one that's welded together.

5:58 PM

I'm searching though here for previous questions about the differences but not immediately finding any. So that's my first question: I have laser cut parts for the old shredder. Can anyone here confirm that I'll still be able to use most of those parts for the newer version? Should I even worry about being able to take the shredder box apart in the future or just use what I've already got and weld it?

Swamp Flux

I'm searching though here for previous questions about the differences but not immediately finding any. So that's my first question: I have laser cut parts for the old shredder. Can anyone here confirm that I'll still be able to use most of those parts for the newer version? Should I even worry about being able to take the shredder box apart in the future or just use what I've already got and weld it?

The older version (2.1) can still be torn apart when welded, your only welding 5 pieces together to make an open face box on each side of the shredder which will be removable when removing the bolts

But the knife, knife spacer, etc... are diferent...

PPCapiSpain

But the knife, knife spacer, etc... are diferent...

oh the blades/spacers have changed? I don't think it would matter if I use the old blades/spacers as long as the thickness and count is the same

8:46 PM

Our makerspace just got access to welding and one member has the training to use it. If the new bolted-together shredder box is just to help those who don't have access to welding, we may as well just move forward with what we've got. The rest of the plans however I'd like to use the new plans so it's safer to use.

The shaft of the v3.3 Is diferent

8:51 PM

8:52 PM

This is the v3.3 shaft...we just assembly one shredder 2 week ago..:) (edited)

Swamp Flux

Hey everyone. I'm happy to be here. @HPS I'm kind of at the same stage as you, though I cannot tell if you've got the brand new shredder box that's all bolted together or the old one that's welded together.

Hi @Swamp Flux I use shredder V2.1 design, so welding is required

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Or have a look into the new shredder design here: https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/

I have a question about the CAD files for the Shredder Basic, what file is the assembly of the machine?

Also is there any producer here for the shredders who can make me a custom shredder? I've actually designed the shredder myself since I need 10 mm blades for my application, but manufacturing it here in Jordan may be difficult

12:12 PM

12:13 PM

hei i cant find a 2d schematic that i can download for the v1 injector on presus plastic web can some one give my a link?

@tobanga i send you a mp

1

About the press machine...any idea why the original project use Cardrige Heater into the aluminium piece?..why don't use PTC heater?...anyone know what is better?

tobanga

I have a question about the CAD files for the Shredder Basic, what file is the assembly of the machine?

Go to "3D CAD" (GrabCad or Wikifactory) -> .f3z (is a Fusion360 file) or .stp (you can open this file with all CAD software) Both files are the complete shredder basic assemblies

(edited)

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Go to "3D CAD" (GrabCad or Wikifactory) -> .f3z (is a Fusion360 file) or .stp (you can open this file with all CAD software) Both files are the complete shredder basic assemblies

(edited)

Yup, got it!

Does anyone have a good resource for just the shredder blades?

ViV Games

Does anyone have a good resource for just the shredder blades?

Do you need a set cut? Have you contacted anyone on the Bazar?

I do and I should have. I'll take a look but I suppose I have some machining devices in my workshop. I wasnt sure if there were replacement blades easily sourced. I'll check out the bazar first

Zboubiboy91

Hello french? I look for buy all machines for plastic, sheetpress and more (basic) im from belgium in brabant wallon

Coucou! Tu as trouvé ton bonheur? Je suis en Belgique, province de Namur, j'ai acheté chez @Landry et chez mark de studio MBB (je sais pas s'il est ici)

7:48 PM

My shredder at the customer :)

Hey guys, how're you doing? So, I want to build a shredder but I can't find a list with all the pieces i'll need and their sizes, does anyone know if there's such a list? Thank you

Potatovski

Hey guys, how're you doing? So, I want to build a shredder but I can't find a list with all the pieces i'll need and their sizes, does anyone know if there's such a list? Thank you

https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcSJAVKv6y8QOYFetaslBwlShP3B6b9Z01MraqFmVLTbgM#/space/gcrSkUc00TRtifrE_-QUmAUmKepF_-m6F9FoN5O_Texze-/folder/10697007 Have a look for the "BOM"

@Potatovski https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

8:16 AM

Hi everyone, this is my shredder progress

8:18 AM

Is it correct assembly ?, since I got 2 extra knives and 1 extra fixed knives

yes, is correct

9:06 PM

you only need 14 knifes...:)

PPCapiSpain

you only need 14 knifes...:)

Hi thanks,

, time to weld it

PPCapiSpain

you only need 14 knifes...:)

Where can I get those knifes ?

Hi, is it enough to use 1/4 HP 1 phase motor + gearbox for the shredder ?. I don't have 3 phase electricity at my home

Jakub hosi

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Nice,single phase electricity?

HPS

Hi, is it enough to use 1/4 HP 1 phase motor + gearbox for the shredder ?. I don't have 3 phase electricity at my home

It won’t be enough. Doesn’t matter if it’s single phase or three phase what your looking for ultimately is your output torque. Which they recommend 300 Nm and min 1.5 kW. You can also utilize a VFD to run a 3 phase motor off single phase. What size of gear reduction did you plan on using? (edited)

Nacnud

It won’t be enough. Doesn’t matter if it’s single phase or three phase what your looking for ultimately is your output torque. Which they recommend 300 Nm and min 1.5 kW. You can also utilize a VFD to run a 3 phase motor off single phase. What size of gear reduction did you plan on using? (edited)

Hi @Nacnud thanks for your advice, I found used 1/4 HP motor on marketplace having 1:50 gear reduction and the output RPM is 29 RPM.

2:14 PM

2:15 PM

What do you think ?

Hi, i am making a single screw extruder, im a beginner. I dont have knowledge about what motor i must use. Is it possible to use stepper motor 24v 500W specs below. I must use this motor cause i have presented it but im thinking the screw i bought is a little heavy for stepper motor. Screw: 60cm, 2.5cm diameter. Pls help. My controller is arduino mega

4:51 PM

HPS

What do you think ?

So without making things to complicated, I couldn't find the full load torque of that specific motor but I grabbed a general torque spec of a similar motor and it comes out to approx 1 Nm a full load, so you can use the gear reduction to calculate your rated output torque( mind you this is max and does not include losses, which there will be losses from heat ect). So take 1 Nm * 50 gear reduction, you'll be getting 50 Nm torque MAX, applying loss fudge factor say of 85% (again theoretical number but can get you ball park) will be 50 Nm * 85% = 42.5 Nm. So if you are to go based of the specs on the website you'll be at 14% the recommended torque and from that I don't think it will work considering looking at this post he was requiring 60 Nm at least: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/data-for-minimum-torque-required-with-shredder/ So I was going through this same struggle the past month and finally settled on a 3 HP (2.2 kW) motor with a 25:1 gear reduction, without applying losses I get close to 300 Nm of torque, but with losses included I am maybe getting 250 Nm. I am hoping this will be satisfactory but will keep you posted on that. My thinking is I don't want to spend money on a lesser motor just to end up buying a big motor after and spending more money so I think its important to not skimp out on the motor and gear reducer. I also purchased a VFD so I can run a 3-phase motor off my single phase power at my house, the VFD will also allowing easy reversing of the motor in case if it does get jammed from the torque not being enough. Little long winded post but hope this helps. (edited)

Tim Slab

Data for Minimum Torque Required with Shredder - Dave Hakkens

Hi everyone, So @andyn had asked me a while ago to gather some info with my hand powered shredder to find the minimum amount of torque needed for the shredder to function.. I have finally put - Dave Hakkens

Nacnud

So without making things to complicated, I couldn't find the full load torque of that specific motor but I grabbed a general torque spec of a similar motor and it comes out to approx 1 Nm a full load, so you can use the gear reduction to calculate your rated output torque( mind you this is max and does not include losses, which there will be losses from heat ect). So take 1 Nm * 50 gear reduction, you'll be getting 50 Nm torque MAX, applying loss fudge factor say of 85% (again theoretical number but can get you ball park) will be 50 Nm * 85% = 42.5 Nm. So if you are to go based of the specs on the website you'll be at 14% the recommended torque and from that I don't think it will work considering looking at this post he was requiring 60 Nm at least: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/data-for-minimum-torque-required-with-shredder/ So I was going through this same struggle the past month and finally settled on a 3 HP (2.2 kW) motor with a 25:1 gear reduction, without applying losses I get close to 300 Nm of torque, but with losses included I am maybe getting 250 Nm. I am hoping this will be satisfactory but will keep you posted on that. My thinking is I don't want to spend money on a lesser motor just to end up buying a big motor after and spending more money so I think its important to not skimp out on the motor and gear reducer. I also purchased a VFD so I can run a 3-phase motor off my single phase power at my house, the VFD will also allowing easy reversing of the motor in case if it does get jammed from the torque not being enough. Little long winded post but hope this helps. (edited)

Thank you for sharing your experience,

, 60 Nm to shred single bottle top, considering I later want to process some failed 3d printed parts so I think bigger motor and gearbox is needed, once again thank you

Is it supposed to be like this Overlapping

HPS

Thank you for sharing your experience,

, 60 Nm to shred single bottle top, considering I later want to process some failed 3d printed parts so I think bigger motor and gearbox is needed, once again thank you

No problem, good luck with your build!

Hi builders! Does anyone has ever built a compression machine with a GAS oven? Electricity here in Cote d‘Ivoire is super expansive and we thought about an alternative… Would that make any sense or is this out of question?

Teresa

Hi builders! Does anyone has ever built a compression machine with a GAS oven? Electricity here in Cote d‘Ivoire is super expansive and we thought about an alternative… Would that make any sense or is this out of question?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/self-compressing-oven-mould-for-making-sheets

2:08 PM

theres this for making sheets

2:09 PM

theres was also somebody using a a pizza oven to make plastic sheets but i cant find anything and think it was deleted

1

2:10 PM

in general esp in most of the asian countries if you watch the recycling videos youll see that a lot of them use gas heating to reduce cost and solve heating problems

the main problem with using gas is that you dont have very good temp control meaning the quality of whatever you're making is much lower

sponsoons

in general esp in most of the asian countries if you watch the recycling videos youll see that a lot of them use gas heating to reduce cost and solve heating problems

Very cool, thanks a lot! Inwill check out the asian market then.

one could technically build a control system that will regulate the gas flow to the oven's burner based on the desired temperature

sponsoons

the main problem with using gas is that you dont have very good temp control meaning the quality of whatever you're making is much lower

Thats what we were also worried about…

a microcontroller + thermocouple + solenoid gas valve is all you'll need to make it happen & get a consistent temperature inside the oven

Toph

a microcontroller + thermocouple + solenoid gas valve is all you'll need to make it happen & get a consistent temperature inside the oven

Wow, that goes beyond my technical understanding

But sounds as if there is a solution… will check if i find stuff here on the local market.

Teresa

Wow, that goes beyond my technical understanding

But sounds as if there is a solution… will check if i find stuff here on the local market.

you could try, sadly most of the temperature controllers out there are for electric heating systems... you'll need someone with some electronics knowhow to make it work

Toph

a microcontroller + thermocouple + solenoid gas valve is all you'll need to make it happen & get a consistent temperature inside the oven

so something interesting is most of the ones I've seen using gas use it as a supplementary thing, is they use the gas in addition to the electric heating and dont make many other changes, they just let the PIDs for the band heater do their job and switch heater and fans on and off as necessary

Teresa

Very cool, thanks a lot! Inwill check out the asian market then.

hi, sadly i dont think there's anybody selling gas based versions, I meant more like they you using those vids and pics as something to base your machine off of

Hello, good day everyone, am from Nigeria ( Igbo) am interested in plastic recycling

️ , am working on the first machine, but am facing challenges of get a perfect cut on my steel, I dont know whether I can buy the machine or any Ideal i can use to make a perfect cut. Thank you.

7:18 PM

Am talking about the shredder

Can someone point me in the direction of a good, affordable source for a 3hp motor and coupler for the shredder? I'm having a hell of a time trying to find them here for under $1000 USD. Thanks!

sponsoons

so something interesting is most of the ones I've seen using gas use it as a supplementary thing, is they use the gas in addition to the electric heating and dont make many other changes, they just let the PIDs for the band heater do their job and switch heater and fans on and off as necessary

yeah that's quite understandable, as there's a bit more coding & specialized components (gas solenoid valves ~which are often open/closed so custom ones need to be built) involved in regulating gas flow to fine tune the temperature.... it's a lot easier to use a heating element to supplement builds since they're already pre-built (or plans are readily available) so they often use the gas to pre-heat the oven quickly to reach the target temperature economically. (edited)

we are experimenting with a different type of compression molding this week. One that involves using wood molds and the extrusion machine. basically the same as the liquid cooled mold process we developed. Except lots of wood molds for production. Downside for this one is that we can not make as finely detailed or thin wall items. We are looking at making molds out of wood to make a mold out of plastic that can then be used to make concrete cultured stone.

sponsoons

hi, sadly i dont think there's anybody selling gas based versions, I meant more like they you using those vids and pics as something to base your machine off of

heres some examples for yall to look at

8:31 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peSjElPAoxo

8:32 AM

https://youtu.be/wtzKw8Zu_DQ?t=332

8:32 AM

https://youtu.be/N8y7Uy5iXGI?t=274

8:34 AM

if you notice only a few of them use gas as the main source of heating,most use it as supplementary

8:36 AM

also these videos reinforce what i was saying about the quality of products given by gas heating

8:38 AM

since almost all of them are the low quality/grade stuff that is recycled/made from dirty and low quality scrap plastic

8:42 AM

@Teresa if yall dont have much experience with gas heaters/electronics but want to use gas what I would advise is you build a small extruder but instead of the electric heaters you use gas burners

8:43 AM

the small size will allow you to test the gas burners and refine or perfect the process and see if it works for you without the cost or trouble of getting a big extruder

8:44 AM

there are many small extruder designs all of which are fairly easy to make regardless of what you have

8:45 AM

most of them can be made for cheaper than 50-100$ and are quite easy to make too

8:47 AM

i would suggest using one of the filament extruder designs as the base as most of them are open source and easy to make and have easy tutorials showing how to build and make them

Hi everyone, I’m working on a grant proposal, I’m looking for a quote/ machine shop to build a shredder and an injection machine, preferably Canadian made.

PaintedLady

Hi everyone, I’m working on a grant proposal, I’m looking for a quote/ machine shop to build a shredder and an injection machine, preferably Canadian made.

There is a Canada Precious Plastic server you can join. @Mirco (CANADA, ON) can get you invite and approved.

Thanks

Hello guys, i'm learning about making some precious plastic machine, but i'm starting for now and how i can find other part ?

11:31 AM

i'm looking for this one actually , les roullements à billes laterals du shredder

11:31 AM

anyone know something to find it plz?

Its called a flange baring

11:32 AM

What diameter shaft are you using?

it's using from 2.1 shredded plan , thx you so much (flange baring !!!) , shaft ??? la traverse centrale hexagonale ?

speed2SP

it's using from 2.1 shredded plan , thx you so much (flange baring !!!) , shaft ??? la traverse centrale hexagonale ?

maybe easier in french ? there is a wiki on the french PP discord :p https://discord.gg/GMeEuZ5GNm

Invite to join a server

Precious Plastic Francophone

v3-wiki-broyeur

Hahaha indeed maybe! The exact product code is International though UCFL204

11:38 AM

Google this and you will find the local supplier

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

Its called a flange baring

around 20 mm for the shaft

(edited)

Nick - PP France

maybe easier in french ? there is a wiki on the french PP discord :p https://discord.gg/GMeEuZ5GNm

thx you Nick !

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

Hahaha indeed maybe! The exact product code is International though UCFL204

Woaww

THX You SOOOO much Sir

Exactly what i need and what i want

(edited)

Hey guys. Can i build a beam using injection machine?

noAim

Hey guys. Can i build a beam using injection machine?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNGuuSKE1pY

One Army

Extrude beams from plastic waste #preciousplastic

4:19 PM

for the pressure you need to upgrade some parts

speed2SP

for the pressure you need to upgrade some parts

I think extrude beams requires some materials like the screw for pressure. Can i use injection machine to build pressure into the mold of beam

noAim

I think extrude beams requires some materials like the screw for pressure. Can i use injection machine to build pressure into the mold of beam

i think the limitation of the injection machine is the quantity of plastic you can inject (extrusion is a continuous flow)

Nick - PP France

i think the limitation of the injection machine is the quantity of plastic you can inject (extrusion is a continuous flow)

I can only build small quantities in molds using injection

noAim

Hey guys. Can i build a beam using injection machine?

it might be possible,but youll only be able to do very short or small/thin beams

1

4:58 PM

the main problem is youll get air bubbles which ruin the beam both in terms of looks, strength and other physical qualities

1

noAim

Hey guys. Can i build a beam using injection machine?

you'll need a screw with a conical core (deeper where the plastic enters & shallower at the other end ~which will help compress the molten plastic at the tip).... of course, this won't mitigate against air pockets forming inside the square tubing mold.

Hi, sorry to interrupt but i'm in a project related to the circular economy with the fishing nets and i'm really interested in know if it is possible to melt this thiny material. The lobster fishing net is nylon and i would like to cut it and melt it but I don't know if it is possible Thank you all

Can anyone tell me where the ceramic blocks are supposed to go on Precious Plastics heat press machine? I have been studying the diagram from PP and watching the youtube video but I'm unsure of where they are attached. I think they might go inside the control box, but I'd like to confirm. https://youtu.be/j3OctDe3xVk

One Army

Precious Plastic - Build a PRO sheetpress machine and make sheets (...

the ceramic blocks? @Indernatur9000 the heating blocks or the ceramic wire connectors?

Falcon

the ceramic blocks? @Indernatur9000 the heating blocks or the ceramic wire connectors?

the ceramic wire connectors!

6:24 PM

The heating blocks are secured to the plates!

they are used to connect all the heaters together to the power cable coming out of the control box.

Yes I can see that from the circuit diagram, where do they live on the machine tho?

I recommend getting some paint pens to label the wires so it's not chaos

Falcon

I recommend getting some paint pens to label the wires so it's not chaos

will do, although the version we are building is smaller, only 18 blocks total for a 24" x 12" pressing area, so hopefully it won't be too bad

It's still a pain to debug if you have an issue

6:26 PM

having three phases and neutral all with the same color makes that VERY hard

6:27 PM

this is where we didn't have a ceramic one

6:27 PM

no better pictures

6:28 PM

so they are between the heating plate and the steel covers under and over the insulation (edited)

So do the ceramic blocks live inside the control/electronics box? Or do they hang out inside the insulation near the heat blocks

6:28 PM

gotchya

under the insulation

Falcon

under the insulation

Thanks!

Is this diagram 100% accurate? It seems strange that there are blue traces going to the heater blocks on top plate, yet the blue traces are missing between the ceramic blocks and the heater blocks on the bottom plate

Sheetpress_Graphic_Circuit_Diagram.pdf

784.84 KB

it should be the same as teh top

6:47 PM

not sure why it's not connected there but you can see where the wire is missing

6:48 PM

if it's not there, it won't do anything

Falcon

if it's not there, it won't do anything

@Indernatur9000 That's how you can do it too:

Create smaller islands using those smaller terminal blocks. Maximum 4 cartridge heaters per patch. The frame temperature reaches max. 110C, so no problem there. You can also put heat breaking material in between the frame and the plate to save energy.

Wire all the islands inside the small distribution box, you need only 3 ceramic blocks for that.

That makes debugging easier and sooner or later you will have to anyways. (edited)

7:02 PM

Btw. test all the blocks before the final assembly

It's 100% worth spending more on wiring/labeling/fixtures etc for when you have to debug later

baba yaga

Btw. test all the blocks before the final assembly

Good tip, will do!

Falcon

It's 100% worth spending more on wiring/labeling/fixtures etc for when you have to debug later

We've purchased all of the components, including the correct wiring, I'll definitely label things, thanks!

@baba yaga we've had our heat shrink wire connectors overheat and short to the frame so I'm scared of using any plastic connectors

7:06 PM

the type in the picture I posted above

7:06 PM

not fun when the machine jumps

Falcon

the type in the picture I posted above

yeah I wouldn't trust those dinky things either

As long you leave it in the wol, it's ok - the wol heats up to 60 deg c only ...

you have the wool very well packed so that probably helps

Do yall think cork will suffice as a good non conductive backing inside the electronics box?

I don't see the need for any of them. The box in the picture above can be mounted on the panel, weld a bolt on the panel and drill a hole through that box and good. The temperature at this position won't even exceed 70 deg C.

Btw. it's less hassle if you weld the mount nuts inside the lower press. That way you can keep the panels on it for disassembly.

7:33 PM

Same for the upper press plate.

baba yaga

Same for the upper press plate.

Makes sense, thanks for the tips!

I’m thinking of using a woodworking extraction system and a cyclone onto my shredder / granulater, has anyone had any experience with this kind of system ? Currently my granulater drops into a metal hopper underneath but emptying it is a real back ache.

Tom - Redo Design

I’m thinking of using a woodworking extraction system and a cyclone onto my shredder / granulater, has anyone had any experience with this kind of system ? Currently my granulater drops into a metal hopper underneath but emptying it is a real back ache.

I have mused over the same idea but haven't implemented anything yet.

1

I’ve seen someone use a blower on a machine before but the idea came into my head when visiting a friends woodworking shop and he has a small cyclone for sawdust

Tom - Redo Design

I’m thinking of using a woodworking extraction system and a cyclone onto my shredder / granulater, has anyone had any experience with this kind of system ? Currently my granulater drops into a metal hopper underneath but emptying it is a real back ache.

if youve got a 3d printer,3d printing a cyclone shouldnt be much cost or effort

6:41 AM

and well in theory it should work perfectly seeing that is how almost all plastic manufactures and makers do it

6:42 AM

the only possible problem i see for you is find a powerful enough fan that doesnt break the bank

6:42 AM

but hey,it never hurts to try

6:42 AM

and remember a leaf blower is the cheapest and most powerful blower or air source you can easily find

Tom - Redo Design

I’m thinking of using a woodworking extraction system and a cyclone onto my shredder / granulater, has anyone had any experience with this kind of system ? Currently my granulater drops into a metal hopper underneath but emptying it is a real back ache.

Hey Tom, I tried it as an experiment to move plastic into a washing system. It works really well, and even helps shredding films/bags better than without.

5:46 PM

It also gets rid of the microplastics as they get sucked into the suction, rather than dropped off. But I was using a wet and dry vacumm.

Thanks Rory again. I have a dust extraction that I use in my wood shop I might have a go .

Hi guys I have an old wood splitter and I want to turn it into an injection machine. I would like to know how to tell when the mold is full and avoid breaking the mold

dadda29993

Hi guys I have an old wood splitter and I want to turn it into an injection machine. I would like to know how to tell when the mold is full and avoid breaking the mold

You drill a whole or mill a overflood channel at the most outer extend of the cavity, with the shortest way to travel to the outside, somewhere at 4-6 mm diameter width or diameter.

The plastic entry hole is 4 - 6 mm. The other hole should be smaller?

I don't know the exact proportion but keep it big as possible. Plastic cools down and solidifies fast at that outer areas, it's a matter of seconds.

9:54 PM

Start with smaller channels. Perhaps you can get away without by measuring the input.

Hello everyone I want to buy shredder If you want to sell, you can contact me. efe.klss@hotmail.com

https://youtu.be/1_BWXhT5Y-I

f2knpw

"PullStruder" : how to make 3D printer filament from recycled plast...

Tom - Redo Design

I’m thinking of using a woodworking extraction system and a cyclone onto my shredder / granulater, has anyone had any experience with this kind of system ? Currently my granulater drops into a metal hopper underneath but emptying it is a real back ache.

We have been using dust collector for about a year and half on our shredder and have built 3 other units for clients with them. They really make material handling easier, and keep the plastic dust out of the air.

1

dadda29993

Hi guys I have an old wood splitter and I want to turn it into an injection machine. I would like to know how to tell when the mold is full and avoid breaking the mold

Practice. You can also use a overfill hole.

baba yaga

I don't know the exact proportion but keep it big as possible. Plastic cools down and solidifies fast at that outer areas, it's a matter of seconds.

Thank you very much now I plan the the changes I have to make to the wood splitter to make it an injection machine

@dadda29993 - No problem. Let us know how it goes. I was always wondering how well the horizontal injection works because gravity can create problems for certain cavities (large/complex) as I noticed a few times using the extruder as injector, till a degree I wanted to flip it down just. Finding the right dose however should get you around the mentioned channel.

baba yaga

@dadda29993 - No problem. Let us know how it goes. I was always wondering how well the horizontal injection works because gravity can create problems for certain cavities (large/complex) as I noticed a few times using the extruder as injector, till a degree I wanted to flip it down just. Finding the right dose however should get you around the mentioned channel.

My injector will be vertical not horizontal because it is an old vertical wood splitter

Ah, I remember. Yes, those can be bad ass

dadda29993

Hi guys I have an old wood splitter and I want to turn it into an injection machine. I would like to know how to tell when the mold is full and avoid breaking the mold

Air vents are helpful, min 1mm. This allows you to keep the barrel full and reduces the risk of injury. I’d also suggest drawing markers on the log splitter to indicate where to stop. You can slow it down before reaching this point to prevent damage to your mould. Otherwise try dosing the barrel with the correct amount of plastic each time. Here is the safest method, however not the fastest. https://youtu.be/8CqJJLTXk5w

Precious Plastic Melbourne

Injection Mould Machine | Precious Plastic Melbourne hydraulic upgrade

Piers

Air vents are helpful, min 1mm. This allows you to keep the barrel full and reduces the risk of injury. I’d also suggest drawing markers on the log splitter to indicate where to stop. You can slow it down before reaching this point to prevent damage to your mould. Otherwise try dosing the barrel with the correct amount of plastic each time. Here is the safest method, however not the fastest. https://youtu.be/8CqJJLTXk5w

Thank you now I make some changes in the wood splitter and then I try to make an air channels in the mould.. my woodcutter is old but very powerful and I’m afraid to break the molds

1

One thing you could try is installing an adjustable hydraulic pressure relief valve, that you could set at an appropriate setting to protect your moulds.

Hey People, for my bachelor test we are starting a sheetpress shop. We found a manufacture for the sheetpress but we aren't certain if we should buy the coldpress at well. Can someone shine some light on this subject for us? Does this make a huge quality difference?

This is the wood splitter

4:05 PM

Hi all, sorry if I'm posting in the wrong place. Had my extrusion pro delivered, which was great, but it keeps tripping my electrics, seems to be a problem with the inverter drive I'm on a UK 400v 3 phase supply, the inverter drive is 380v but all the other components are 400v. Does anyone know a fix for this?

Dippy

Hi all, sorry if I'm posting in the wrong place. Had my extrusion pro delivered, which was great, but it keeps tripping my electrics, seems to be a problem with the inverter drive I'm on a UK 400v 3 phase supply, the inverter drive is 380v but all the other components are 400v. Does anyone know a fix for this?

@Dippy Normally, the 20V difference don't matter for the inverters I had. What model you have there ? I suspect something else is the problem.

@baba yaga I have a GMT CNT MICNO. Trip only happens when pressing run on the inverter, I disconnected the motor to check if there was an error there and it still tripped.

Dippy

@baba yaga I have a GMT CNT MICNO. Trip only happens when pressing run on the inverter, I disconnected the motor to check if there was an error there and it still tripped.

Well, You can try a factory reset & remove all cables possible, but since it is at least online, it is hard to tell. The docs here https://gmtcontrol.com/en/portfolio-item/micno-0-75-kw630-kw/ don't suggest anything. I also checked the VFDs we have here, they also say 380V but run fine at 400V.

6:44 PM

I also assume the machine is wired correctly. In case of doubts, please post a picture

@baba yaga thank you, as far as I can tell the wiring is correct, will go and get a picture, do you know a way to factory reset?

Should stated be in the manual though

6:49 PM

@Dippy - the manual says 380V +/-15% ...

6:49 PM

@baba yaga I checked the side of the model in the machine and it also says +/- 15%

6:56 PM

@Dippy - this looks alright, did you try with U,V,W detached ? (having U,V,W crimped would be nice)

@Dippy Are the Blue, Brown, Black wires connected to the motor? Those look like AC input.

8:28 PM

I see the gray wires labeled 1,2,3. I wonder if your AC input and motor wires are backwards.

UVW goes to the motor, yup. 1,2,3 is also correct (comes from the contactor) and often comes in the same color on 3P installations. Looks like he was out of correct colored cables and other parts but essentially everything is done ok. If it's not a broken cable and the factory reset (& re-configuration) doesn't help, a new VFD should do. Please also try to power the VFD and motor directly, just to make sure it's not coming from the power circuit. (edited)

Tom - Redo Design

I’m thinking of using a woodworking extraction system and a cyclone onto my shredder / granulater, has anyone had any experience with this kind of system ? Currently my granulater drops into a metal hopper underneath but emptying it is a real back ache.

Yes we use a wood chips extractor connected to a silo or barrels But we are only #unverifiedpreciousplastic not sure what our opinion is worth (edited)

1

lamaindewei started a thread. 10/25/2021 8:39 PM

PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland

Yes we use a wood chips extractor connected to a silo or barrels But we are only #unverifiedpreciousplastic not sure what our opinion is worth (edited)

Does the system run pretty consistently? Sounds like a good system (edited)

11:47 PM

Is it working well for you?

Shrinkage results for 2 of my parts. In average 2,15% shrinkage with HDPE from bottle caps. For a mould i am designing the dimensions are quite important. Do someone of you have some measurements for HDPE (maybe from bottle caps)?

1

CitSciWorkshop

Is it working well for you?

Well it is the only way to not breathe microparticles (that I know of). Yes it works relatively well for standard granulation. Fibres need more attention. https://photos.app.goo.gl/k4QeentqhNpPHHCf9

1

PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland

Well it is the only way to not breathe microparticles (that I know of). Yes it works relatively well for standard granulation. Fibres need more attention. https://photos.app.goo.gl/k4QeentqhNpPHHCf9

nice one! @PlasticAtBay_Julien_NScotland

1

Is there maybe someone in or around Belgium who still makes Sheetpresses?

7:04 PM

there are not a lot of manufacturers (edited)

Joey

Is there maybe someone in or around Belgium who still makes Sheetpresses?

maybe @Marie.Pan can hook you up with a builder ?

I started making shredder today (edited)

3

Hi All I am just getting started and waiting for my machines to arrive. In the meantime I have a friend who is a fabricator and has a Computer Controlled Plasma cutting machine. He is asking me for the dimensions, plate thickness & material grade. IE Stainless or plain mild steel? Does anyone know where I can get this information? I am a total novice so don't really know the right questions to ask even. I am wanting to make moulds for LDPE use. Small shape design, eg maybe 2ml think squares, circles etc to make jewellery.. Any help is much appreciated. If I do not reply with a thank you for your response it is cause I am also a novice at using this platform and it seems a bit overwhelming just now. Thank you Amanda (edited)

BigRed

Hi, I’m looking at getting a injection mould for pegs designed. Is there anyone here who can tell me if this would work? Or anyone here who offers this service(injection mould design)? (edited)

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/_rBuO4WbG1I @BigRed I'm curious to see the result

Johannplasto

CAD-Design of a peg mould

Hi, my name is Thomas Diehl I m new here and first i want to introduce myself. I m the president of Haiti-Not-Hilfe eV. (Haiti-need-Help e.V) an non profit organisation in Germany. Since 2006 we worked in Haiti. We built a home for kids without parents and a school where our children learn. Now the first of our kids are ready with school and we need to teach them a profession. We noticed that it is very difficult in Haiti to find jobs for all our kids. So we looked for alternatives. Normally i visit Haiti one time a year. So i saw the big problem of plastic rubbish in Haiti. Now i found "Precious Plastic" in the internet and i decidet to astablish a mixed workplace (first a shredder and an extruser) in Haiti to do anything agains the plastic rubbish and to find jobs for our older children, so that they find a way in their life. Information you can find on www.haitinothilfe.de It seems that the biggest problem in Haiti is the energy. I fear that it will be difficult to find a way for machines which use 380 or 400 Volt. Does anybody have ideas how we can manage this problem. Normaly electricity have 110 Volt in Haiti. Is it possible to build machines with only 110V? Perhaps we can use a converter to 220 Volt. Sorry for my questions, but i m a general doctor and have normally not much to do with machines or electricity. To work with a generator is also a problem because you can often not buy petrol, or it is much expensive At the moment you pay 9 Dollar for1 Liter petrol. The second problem will be to bring the machines to Haiti. I hope you have some ideas to help us.

Machines can built with 120v but with lower voltage means higher amperage, and bigger cables and machines(more copper). Transformers are used to step up or down voltages very efficiently, and are used literally everywhere. Any electrician should be able to get you setup and running at whatever voltage you need(within reason haha).

1

ThoDie

Hi, my name is Thomas Diehl I m new here and first i want to introduce myself. I m the president of Haiti-Not-Hilfe eV. (Haiti-need-Help e.V) an non profit organisation in Germany. Since 2006 we worked in Haiti. We built a home for kids without parents and a school where our children learn. Now the first of our kids are ready with school and we need to teach them a profession. We noticed that it is very difficult in Haiti to find jobs for all our kids. So we looked for alternatives. Normally i visit Haiti one time a year. So i saw the big problem of plastic rubbish in Haiti. Now i found "Precious Plastic" in the internet and i decidet to astablish a mixed workplace (first a shredder and an extruser) in Haiti to do anything agains the plastic rubbish and to find jobs for our older children, so that they find a way in their life. Information you can find on www.haitinothilfe.de It seems that the biggest problem in Haiti is the energy. I fear that it will be difficult to find a way for machines which use 380 or 400 Volt. Does anybody have ideas how we can manage this problem. Normaly electricity have 110 Volt in Haiti. Is it possible to build machines with only 110V? Perhaps we can use a converter to 220 Volt. Sorry for my questions, but i m a general doctor and have normally not much to do with machines or electricity. To work with a generator is also a problem because you can often not buy petrol, or it is much expensive At the moment you pay 9 Dollar for1 Liter petrol. The second problem will be to bring the machines to Haiti. I hope you have some ideas to help us.

if you want machines that are cheaper to build and run take a look at gas heated machines,they work of your standard cooking/domestic gas cylinder are much cheaper to run since they dont need the band heaters and if you want to make them even cheaper skip out on the automatic temp control for the gas and just do it manually-gas is a pretty steady source of heating,meaning that once set it should stay that way for some time,this still means youll need to recheck it every so often but the effort is reduced

9:17 AM

this way by using gas only the extruder needs a motor,which can be sourced locally and then adjusted

9:18 AM

the other machines-the injection can be run completely of gas is required but will require attention to the temp

9:20 AM

the sheet press too can be run off gas, same as the injection if you need NO electricity you'll need manual temp control which isn't too hard, the sheetpress anyway has the hydraulic cylinder manual

9:21 AM

as for the burners for all the machines look at 'barbeque burners' there are a lot of tutorial, videos and resources on making homemade/diy versions quite cheaply

9:22 AM

they main reason you cant say use wood directly though it would be cheap is that wood doesnt really give you temperature control,which means the risk of fumes and plastic burning is quite high with wood

9:24 AM

all lot of the developing countries use gas instead of electricity as it is cheaper and a lot of times gas is given very cheap/free for cooking and domestic uses

9:26 AM

also if really need yall could just get a generator over there

9:28 AM

but as far as jobs/skills are concerned something like farming/market gardening i feel would be nicer as it would still be sustainable without external support and it would also be able to connect with most of their traditional life styles

9:28 AM

if water for yall is not a problem than just taking some heirloom seeds there and starting a community garden is a great idea

9:29 AM

i say heirloom seeds as most of them have good qualities, are stable and mainly dont need much expensive chemical fertilizers or pesticides

9:32 AM

also sorry i seemed to miss the part about petrol/fuel being costly,so simplest and cheapest the solution to this would be to use hand cranked/flywheel based versions,they wont be that fast but theyll work

also look at making your machines work with pulleys as those pulleys will mean that its much easier to connect and power your machines from whatever power sources they have be it manual, animal, steam, diesel or whatever

ThoDie

Hi, my name is Thomas Diehl I m new here and first i want to introduce myself. I m the president of Haiti-Not-Hilfe eV. (Haiti-need-Help e.V) an non profit organisation in Germany. Since 2006 we worked in Haiti. We built a home for kids without parents and a school where our children learn. Now the first of our kids are ready with school and we need to teach them a profession. We noticed that it is very difficult in Haiti to find jobs for all our kids. So we looked for alternatives. Normally i visit Haiti one time a year. So i saw the big problem of plastic rubbish in Haiti. Now i found "Precious Plastic" in the internet and i decidet to astablish a mixed workplace (first a shredder and an extruser) in Haiti to do anything agains the plastic rubbish and to find jobs for our older children, so that they find a way in their life. Information you can find on www.haitinothilfe.de It seems that the biggest problem in Haiti is the energy. I fear that it will be difficult to find a way for machines which use 380 or 400 Volt. Does anybody have ideas how we can manage this problem. Normaly electricity have 110 Volt in Haiti. Is it possible to build machines with only 110V? Perhaps we can use a converter to 220 Volt. Sorry for my questions, but i m a general doctor and have normally not much to do with machines or electricity. To work with a generator is also a problem because you can often not buy petrol, or it is much expensive At the moment you pay 9 Dollar for1 Liter petrol. The second problem will be to bring the machines to Haiti. I hope you have some ideas to help us.

as for the second problem,depending on how complicated or big you want your machines to be most of the machines have a few 'essential' parts and others that can be substituted

10:17 AM

it might be anything from the extruder screw to the injection plunger, this means that you only need to transport a few essential parts, the rest can be sourced or found locally and then assembled on site

ThoDie

Hi, my name is Thomas Diehl I m new here and first i want to introduce myself. I m the president of Haiti-Not-Hilfe eV. (Haiti-need-Help e.V) an non profit organisation in Germany. Since 2006 we worked in Haiti. We built a home for kids without parents and a school where our children learn. Now the first of our kids are ready with school and we need to teach them a profession. We noticed that it is very difficult in Haiti to find jobs for all our kids. So we looked for alternatives. Normally i visit Haiti one time a year. So i saw the big problem of plastic rubbish in Haiti. Now i found "Precious Plastic" in the internet and i decidet to astablish a mixed workplace (first a shredder and an extruser) in Haiti to do anything agains the plastic rubbish and to find jobs for our older children, so that they find a way in their life. Information you can find on www.haitinothilfe.de It seems that the biggest problem in Haiti is the energy. I fear that it will be difficult to find a way for machines which use 380 or 400 Volt. Does anybody have ideas how we can manage this problem. Normaly electricity have 110 Volt in Haiti. Is it possible to build machines with only 110V? Perhaps we can use a converter to 220 Volt. Sorry for my questions, but i m a general doctor and have normally not much to do with machines or electricity. To work with a generator is also a problem because you can often not buy petrol, or it is much expensive At the moment you pay 9 Dollar for1 Liter petrol. The second problem will be to bring the machines to Haiti. I hope you have some ideas to help us.

also another thing i would recommend is to hold of on the extruder at first as its a bigger thing

10:20 AM

instead start with an injection molder and then move your way up is needed

10:21 AM

as for the molds you can at first make small lasercut molds as they have a long life,are good,cheap and small,light and easy to transport

ThoDie

Hi, my name is Thomas Diehl I m new here and first i want to introduce myself. I m the president of Haiti-Not-Hilfe eV. (Haiti-need-Help e.V) an non profit organisation in Germany. Since 2006 we worked in Haiti. We built a home for kids without parents and a school where our children learn. Now the first of our kids are ready with school and we need to teach them a profession. We noticed that it is very difficult in Haiti to find jobs for all our kids. So we looked for alternatives. Normally i visit Haiti one time a year. So i saw the big problem of plastic rubbish in Haiti. Now i found "Precious Plastic" in the internet and i decidet to astablish a mixed workplace (first a shredder and an extruser) in Haiti to do anything agains the plastic rubbish and to find jobs for our older children, so that they find a way in their life. Information you can find on www.haitinothilfe.de It seems that the biggest problem in Haiti is the energy. I fear that it will be difficult to find a way for machines which use 380 or 400 Volt. Does anybody have ideas how we can manage this problem. Normaly electricity have 110 Volt in Haiti. Is it possible to build machines with only 110V? Perhaps we can use a converter to 220 Volt. Sorry for my questions, but i m a general doctor and have normally not much to do with machines or electricity. To work with a generator is also a problem because you can often not buy petrol, or it is much expensive At the moment you pay 9 Dollar for1 Liter petrol. The second problem will be to bring the machines to Haiti. I hope you have some ideas to help us.

Hello, We have US versions of the Basic that run on 110, and Pro that run on 220V. you will need to observe the service capacity on your breaker box to see what sort of wattage you can run. In regard to shipping, we've had clients use a trusted freight forwarder, and secured the boxes heavily to deter theft or loss in transit.

sponsoons

instead start with an injection molder and then move your way up is needed

@sponsoons Thank you very much for your suggestions and ideas

Hi all. is their a electrical schematic for the sheet press out there other than the one in the download pack?

@HoboMachinist Here is more: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly (edited)

@Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto. Thanks ill look into it!

@HoboMachinist You may need an additional differential circuit breaker for this since there is typically only one in the building's cabinet and those cartridge heaters tend to burn out over 6 months, creating the imbalance not caught by a regular breaker.

I need the technical drawings of the plates that connect the gear and the cremalier to the injector

Hi everyone , I am makinng a Extruder for plastic. can you help me on selecting a applicable motor ??

3:25 AM

this is the end of my screw

hey everyone! I'm doing a project for university and I'm planning to use the Extrusion Pro as a part of it. It says that it can create bricks from recycled plastic.

5:18 PM

If I may ask, how durable are the bricks? is it possible to use them for construction?

5:19 PM

5:22 PM

I've read in africa, they managed to recycle plastic waste and turn them into bricks which has better overall characteristics than traditional concrete bricks, they even managed to use them in buildings as well! So I imagined this machine should bring me a similar result maybe?

Lax

this is the end of my screw

2hp single fase 110v works well, depending on availability in your region

Hi there - I am interested in the machine design and am interested in building one. But when I open the solidworks models they are missing parts. The extrusion model in particular is missing several key parts. When the Solidworks model is done as a 'Pack and Go' in Solidworks its important to reference and include all files or the model isn't of much use. I know the drawings are inlcuded but I would like to look at and possibly make changes / improvements to the model. I have Solidworks machine design experience and I have manufacturing business management and mechanical engineering qualifications - if you would like any machines parts modelled or drawn I am happy to volunteer. Thanks Simon (edited)

The website is being really weird and not letting me sign in to the bazar, so I can't buy the materials I need to build the injection machine. What should I do?

@Momo und die Zeitdiebe Hydraulics are just a very established option

9:06 PM

Just have to build the machine to withstand them

9:06 PM

rack and pinion would worry me in terms of long term durability

9:07 PM

A well designed hydraulic circuit can be pretty accurate in terms of pressure

Yeah - hydraulic comes with some penalties, budget, weight and loss of control though. With rack an pinion you can prepare 5 shots without worrying too much about over dosing. If everything is dialed in, longer melting time can be beneficial as well. Not sure where the durability concerns are, also there hydraulics can fail a lot - It would double or even triple the price easily.

9:14 PM

Anyway, great option for larger objects, aka compression molding as roof tiles, etc..

That's where my headspace is

9:16 PM

I'm not thinking at all about small parts

9:16 PM

we work with a sheet press so everything I think of is at least 200g

1

Falcon

we work with a sheet press so everything I think of is at least 200g

@Falcon Just checked, latest vertical rack and pinion designs are around 400g. Horizontal (85cm stroke) could be ca. 600g, or more if you can get longer racks. 150g presents already a respectable size. Hydraulics can add here plenty of features and details, not possible with manual, on time. So yes, going for hydraulics is going to knock down some doors down. I am still undecided since theory and connectivity involves plenty of leg work. A 3kW pump and a 40L tank alone is already 2000-3000 Euros. Not sure, that this rather intermediate designs worth the effort. (edited)

Hello, my name is Jhonatan Pérez, I greet you from Venezuela. I am 28 years old, this November 28 I turn 29 years old, I was born on November 28, 1992. I am married, my wife is called Nohemí Glod and she is 25 years old, she is pregnant with two beautiful girls who with God's favor will be born this December, We are very excited about the birth of our girls but also very concerned. Here in Venezuela the social, economic, health and food situation is very complex because of the dictatorship that governs us and because of the false collaborationist opposition that keeps them in power, leaving us, the citizens, the people, to suffer more and more. every day for the mismanagement of our nation. The environmental problems of our nation are not the exception, our environment also suffers greatly from the lack of serious public policies against pollution, coupled with the fact that the government promotes mining in our Amazon rainforest and pollutes our rivers with mercury and other heavy metals. From our possibilities every day we fight to improve our environment doing everything we can, especially selecting our waste correctly, polluting as little as possible and recycling everything that can be done, however, the economic situation of my family does not help us, making our task It becomes increasingly difficult, especially now that our girls are going to be born and we honestly do not have all the resources to be able to maintain them. We work hard every day, all day, but right now I am going through bronchopneumonia that does not allow me to work and my wife has a very advanced pregnancy and she is at high risk, so she cannot work either. I have been resting for two weeks and undergoing treatment, thank God I am improving and I hope to be able to go back to work soon, so that I can continue to raise money for my girls who are about to be born.

3:24 AM

I would like to ask you if there is a possibility that you can help me financially to be able to make an EXTRUSION MACHINE PRO machine to be able to work making plastic profiles, since with this machine I could work independently and could support my family in a dignified way. I only ask for the PRO EXTRUSION MACHINE because here there are people who recycle and grind plastic from whom you can buy it, to be able to use it with the machine and make profiles that will be offered mainly to rural agricultural communities to replace the poles they use to their fences, thus preventing them from cutting down trees to make these wooden posts. That is one of the objectives, we also plan to use these wooden profiles to build "paved" roads and highways with these profiles, among other projects we have in mind. I remain at your entire disposal, grateful for any response you can give me. Jhonatan Perez jhpp1992@gmail.com +584121490300

Anyone have recommendations on a gear box for shredder/extruder just the base models? Link to a store perhaps?

Hi, does anyone knows where to get these in Europe ? They come by different names, as "ball stud and receiver", often found in the automotive industry. I found vendors but they make it hard to purchase. I need it to clip stainless sheetmetal covers/panels on a frame. There are alternatives but less elegant since you can see the bolt.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

@Falcon Just checked, latest vertical rack and pinion designs are around 400g. Horizontal (85cm stroke) could be ca. 600g, or more if you can get longer racks. 150g presents already a respectable size. Hydraulics can add here plenty of features and details, not possible with manual, on time. So yes, going for hydraulics is going to knock down some doors down. I am still undecided since theory and connectivity involves plenty of leg work. A 3kW pump and a 40L tank alone is already 2000-3000 Euros. Not sure, that this rather intermediate designs worth the effort. (edited)

Log splitters start at 400usd and so far built 3 injection molders and one compression molder with them. (edited)

would it be cheaper to buy a hydraulic power pack+ cylinder or to buy a log splitter?

sponsoons

would it be cheaper to buy a hydraulic power pack+ cylinder or to buy a log splitter?

Pump, cylinder, valves and tank for around 10T pressure is around 3000 Euro. There is cheaper on Ali but not sure about warranty and connectivity. I think this would be more suited for compression molding than injection ( <30 diameter barrel). Such a press however involves quite some machining and moving parts, build with lot's of care though. (edited)

Hello everyone, anyone in #🥗europe can recommend the best place to get the extruded pro screw?

Hi everyone. I am Miro from Bulgaria I have just joined the community and I am still researching the great idea behind precious plastic. We have a small family workshop for producing furniture from particle board, but I love the nature and have this idea to try producing furniture and especially kitchen cabinets from recycled plastic sheets. So I need some plastic sheets to try cutting and assembling them. Are you guys selling plastic sheets 1,8 cm. and how much would be the price for delivery to Bulgaria? We have some firms which recycle plastic and sell granules, maybe If I manage to assemble the first whole kitchen I will think of buying or constructing a sheetpress. I also would like to ask If you sell sheetprees for plastic and what is the price?

Hey everyone I am Stoyann from New Caledonia and I would like to order a batch of machine from Novatech, I would like to discuss it with someone from this company. If possible send me a message here or privately. Thank you

Butte (PP Philippines)

Log splitters start at 400usd and so far built 3 injection molders and one compression molder with them. (edited)

Hi Butte, thanks. Are there some more details you could share? Using a v3/v4 extruder in conjunction with a hydraulic compression molder could do the trick for many since bigger objects can be done that way. Your containers looked promising ,... Especially the failed trials are interesting, as well the successes of course. As far I remember you did grind soft plastics as bags, etc... accounting for a lion share in daily accumulated household waste.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

Hi Butte, thanks. Are there some more details you could share? Using a v3/v4 extruder in conjunction with a hydraulic compression molder could do the trick for many since bigger objects can be done that way. Your containers looked promising ,... Especially the failed trials are interesting, as well the successes of course. As far I remember you did grind soft plastics as bags, etc... accounting for a lion share in daily accumulated household waste.

Videos of the molder is on my yputube channel

ye, just like always, too short, ...

@Butte (PP Philippines) , let me ask you then differently

1. For the setup you had here (https://youtu.be/g-BtdlfQI-4?t=150), how long stays the plastic elastic enough to be pressed ? 2. Could the object be bigger and/or thicker ? I am trying to find a baseline. I suppose it's a v4 extruder (RPMS?) and a 5-10T press. 3. Did you try other than HDPE ? 4. What happened to the project, and is it something people want ? 5. Did you experienced challenges ? Could you imagine this could be automated ? 7. Any recommendations to scale this up ? I guess the extruder is the first bottleneck... Thanks

Good afternoon comrades, I am building the Pro extruder, but in Mexico there are no such materials, what materials can I use for the auger and the tube that covers it. Thank you

cheche

Good afternoon comrades, I am building the Pro extruder, but in Mexico there are no such materials, what materials can I use for the auger and the tube that covers it. Thank you

Many people have had good luck with a long auger style wood drill-bit covered by a closely fitting (inside diameter) steel tube.

5:02 AM

You'll most likely need to modify the bit to allow the plastic to extrude qt the nozzle (i.e. cut the front off the bjt)

cheche

Good afternoon comrades, I am building the Pro extruder, but in Mexico there are no such materials, what materials can I use for the auger and the tube that covers it. Thank you

for the tube that covers it you can either use 'seamless pipe'[recommended and will not be very cheap] or you could just use normal metal tube/pipe both of which should be decently easy to find without having to got to a big city

another thing is if you dont have much budget for this id advise to start with a injector that is gas heated or on a slightly bigger budget with an extruder that is gas heated

6:06 AM

you can use the normal cooking gas along with a 'barbeque burner' which is quite easy to make and you can also find it locally under many names for not much cost

6:07 AM

locally you should be able to find the burner under the name 'pipe burner'

6:09 AM

the good thing about using a gas for heating is it makes the machine very cheap to make and use but the problem is that it requires practice to properly set and control the temperature

cheche

Good afternoon comrades, I am building the Pro extruder, but in Mexico there are no such materials, what materials can I use for the auger and the tube that covers it. Thank you

https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project, For all the other parts, you might be out of luck but the design can simplified, using a taper and 2 thrust bearings. No need for a mill. Check also the map please : https://community.preciousplastic.com/map

Hi there, Could I ask a question? I’m a RISD student and I’m working on an upcycling project for my elective landscape architecture class. I would like to take advantage of the waste plastic in RI and make it useful in landscape. Could you guys give me any suggestions on the process ?

hi! I am working with a local company to find a use for their polycarbonate waste, and one of the biggest issues they have is granulating the material - right now it's in the form of sheets with holes from making plastic cards. Has anyone tried to use a Precious Plastic shredding machine for polycarbonate? I haven't found anything on the website to suggest whether this would be a good or bad idea

m4ydh4k

hi! I am working with a local company to find a use for their polycarbonate waste, and one of the biggest issues they have is granulating the material - right now it's in the form of sheets with holes from making plastic cards. Has anyone tried to use a Precious Plastic shredding machine for polycarbonate? I haven't found anything on the website to suggest whether this would be a good or bad idea

i wouldnt advise using a shredder like that,instead get a commercial plastic shredder

5:25 AM

itll be able to handle more plastic,faster,better and cheaper

5:26 AM

also PC dulls you blades so having an industrial machine where its meant to be easy to resharpen your blades is a blessing

5:27 AM

nowadays you are also getting commercial machines much cheaper,so something with a similar cost to a precious plastic setup will give you a much higher output while having lower running costs

sponsoons

i wouldnt advise using a shredder like that,instead get a commercial plastic shredder

ah I see, thank you for the advice! they already considered an industrial machine but found it too expensive, so that was why I was interested in other options, but it sounds like PC would wear down a Precious Plastic machine too quickly/result in more costs overall

Can anybody recommend a place to buy the heating elements for the injector in europe?

m4ydh4k

hi! I am working with a local company to find a use for their polycarbonate waste, and one of the biggest issues they have is granulating the material - right now it's in the form of sheets with holes from making plastic cards. Has anyone tried to use a Precious Plastic shredding machine for polycarbonate? I haven't found anything on the website to suggest whether this would be a good or bad idea

There are very capable machines in and around Precious-Plastic - commercial and partially Open-sourced, with Hardox and other options which can deal with PC and even harder materials, up to 15mm thickness. Average price for such device is around 5000 Euro which I think is is cheap compared even to the best shredders on Alibaba, ending up also at 7000, after import tax and transport. Same applies to grinders but there it's even harder to get or rebuild those knives which tend to wear out quick also with harder stuff.

2:50 PM

@Till , https://aliexpress.com/item/33048321207.html, it's a little cheaper than those brass ones : https://www.tcdirect.co.uk/Default.aspx?level=2&department_id=300/2

2:56 PM

@sponsoons - Throughput and cheap isn't everything. Noise, warranty, quality, support, consumables, etc... are key criteria to many purchasers.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

@Till , https://aliexpress.com/item/33048321207.html, it's a little cheaper than those brass ones : https://www.tcdirect.co.uk/Default.aspx?level=2&department_id=300/2

Perfect thanks!

Hi, I'm from Ecuador. I really want to know if maybe someone knows where can I buy a "screw and barrel" for the extrusion machine? Obviously, Near to me haha. I don't have problem if the parts are not new.

5:10 PM

Thanks, and best wishes

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

There are very capable machines in and around Precious-Plastic - commercial and partially Open-sourced, with Hardox and other options which can deal with PC and even harder materials, up to 15mm thickness. Average price for such device is around 5000 Euro which I think is is cheap compared even to the best shredders on Alibaba, ending up also at 7000, after import tax and transport. Same applies to grinders but there it's even harder to get or rebuild those knives which tend to wear out quick also with harder stuff.

That sounds promising! Do you know any resources where I could learn more about these machines?

m4ydh4k

That sounds promising! Do you know any resources where I could learn more about these machines?

Depends on the thickness and amounts you'd like to shred, and how small your granulate should come out.

Hi, I'm getting a Surge Current error on the inverter drive to my extruder pro, does any one know how to combat this? It seems that you can get inrush current limiters but there is a wide range and I want to make sure this is the right thing to fix the problem. Help greatly appreciated!

Hi @Dippy, the support team is currently unavailable but let me try. Might it be because the extruder is jammed or is it running a bit at least ? Not sure I fully understood. Thanks

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

Hi @Dippy, the support team is currently unavailable but let me try. Might it be because the extruder is jammed or is it running a bit at least ? Not sure I fully understood. Thanks

Not running at all, we recieved it a couple of weeks ago, firstly it tripped our electrics, it seemed like the problem was with the inverter drive so I replaced this with the once from the Extruder BOM (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/inverter-drives/1756234/), we then had an SC error code, the wiring looks correct through the machine, so we believe there is a surge current on startup.

Ok, could you try without the screw engaged ? Just to make sure it's not blocked. I guess all the parameters are set on the VFD (50Hz). (edited)

4:22 PM

@Dippy - or are you saying the motor isn't even starting ? In this case the motor and VFD power specs may not match. (edited)

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

@Dippy - or are you saying the motor isn't even starting ? In this case the motor and VFD power specs may not match. (edited)

Checked the screw and able to turn manually, so no blockage. Motor doesn't start. Have just tried to look at settings and can't seem to figure it out, the instructions that this VFD came with don't make sense to me (which is why I ordered fully built).

I think I remember you from a few weeks ago or so. In case you have a 3 phase outlet, I'd try to hook up the motor directly there to check you don't have a defect motor. The Rexroth 50Hz defaults should be fine.

@bia mattiuzzo you are from Brazil?

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

I think I remember you from a few weeks ago or so. In case you have a 3 phase outlet, I'd try to hook up the motor directly there to check you don't have a defect motor. The Rexroth 50Hz defaults should be fine.

Just hooked up the motor and it tripped the system back to the main RCD so I'm guessing that means there is a problem with the motor then? The wiring on the motor is this, does that look correct?

Dippy

Just hooked up the motor and it tripped the system back to the main RCD so I'm guessing that means there is a problem with the motor then? The wiring on the motor is this, does that look correct?

Essentially yes, just not sure you wired the Neutral (blue) - which you shouldn't. If you have a regular 3phase 5pole outlet (380V), eg: 3 phases, 1 neutral and one ground - then you want to wire only that 3 phases to the motor, often labeled as L1, L2, L3 which go on U,V,W. There are also 3phase 220V outlets but then it has no neutral, so it's a 4 pole plug/outlet then. (edited)

7:05 PM

I hope that makes sense

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

I hope that makes sense

Thank you for taking time to respond I really appreciate it!

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

Essentially yes, just not sure you wired the Neutral (blue) - which you shouldn't. If you have a regular 3phase 5pole outlet (380V), eg: 3 phases, 1 neutral and one ground - then you want to wire only that 3 phases to the motor, often labeled as L1, L2, L3 which go on U,V,W. There are also 3phase 220V outlets but then it has no neutral, so it's a 4 pole plug/outlet then. (edited)

We are on 3 phase 5 pole, tracing all the wires back it looks like the blue in the above is actually the white (so just the wrong colour wire they've used). Neutral the original blue wire seems to end in a terminal block. I hope that makes sense

Not sure if this picture shows enough

That's actually correct,

the 3P fuse on the right, L1=White, L2=Black, L3=Brown - and Neutral = Blue, on a dedicated terminal - being routed to the 220V stuff.

So the motor should be wired on L1,L2,L3 directly - to test, and if passes
depending on the VFD, which may take 3phase directly- you power the VFD exactly with that L1,L2,L3 - and if it takes only 220V : L1 & Neutral.

Don't hesitate to ask, happy to see that finally gone

7:30 PM

The symptoms you've described are actually pointing that the Neutral (blue) has been confused as phase (L1,L2,L3), not sure though. Using L1 or L2 or L3 together with Neutral gives you the 220V Volt for the heating. I'd check everything all over with a multi-meter.

7:35 PM

Considering however that he put a phase failure relay in place, suggests that hew knew what he's doing ... I can't imagine he shipped it without testing.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

The symptoms you've described are actually pointing that the Neutral (blue) has been confused as phase (L1,L2,L3), not sure though. Using L1 or L2 or L3 together with Neutral gives you the 220V Volt for the heating. I'd check everything all over with a multi-meter.

Just isolated the VFD and that runs fine (L1, L2 and L3 setup), I'll double check the track of the neutral. I don't know if it was tested, it took over a year to be shipped and he doesn't respond to messages now, so not sure what to make of that.

Great, happy to hear that. Sorry to hear about the builder, seems to have eastern origins. Hard times over there, not just here.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

Great, happy to hear that. Sorry to hear about the builder, seems to have eastern origins. Hard times over there, not just here.

Multimeter ordered, hopefully that will provide some insight. Thank you again for your help and time!

You're welcome. There is a 'flow check' mode on those multi-meters, which gives you the resistance between 2 points, to check it's the same cable. With that you could figure it all out.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

You're welcome. There is a 'flow check' mode on those multi-meters, which gives you the resistance between 2 points, to check it's the same cable. With that you could figure it all out.

Here's hoping

@Dippy Most of the VFD's come as default with Hz @ 400Hz. If it's the case you need to put it to 50 or 60Hz.

@sonik - not really, I've seen 400Hz only on those Huanyang VFDs. Bosch/Rexroth, Omron, Siemens, etc.. come all at 50 Hz

(edited)

2:23 PM

Huanyang ships at 50Hz, for 4kW +

all the vfd's i got defaulted to 400Hz, anyway, this was just an idea, if it's not the case for yours, just forget it.

@sonik It seems that those 400Hz inverters are all somewhere in the 60 - 200 Euro range and come often as bundle with CNC spindles (10k RPM), all below 3kW. The higher grade VFDs however are usually for heavy duty motors, pumps, etc... with lots of connectivity to PLCs, etc... It's amazing to read this manuals, around 2-5x more parameters. One never learns out I like to say

8:01 PM

Huanyang and even their cheaper clones proved well so far

I realise I may not be popular when I say this but no-one here should be giving out information on mains electrical wiring if the person at the other end is not qualified .... Don't fool around with 3-phase or mains power if you are not qualified... Period. (edited)

3:05 AM

Open source is great but there are some tasks that need to be done by qualified people for VERY sound safety reasons.

1

@kutto , don't worry - it's just a motor and some fuses - nothing which can go really wrong

Thanks for the note Nials.

10:35 AM

On another note I have been looking at the extruder design and am very keen on putting one together. I note however in the CAD - SW Model the screw is not keyed in the gearbox shaft so as drawn wont work - how is this normally connected / keyed for the gearbox? (edited)

kutto

Thanks for the note Nials.

There is an intermediate driveshaft. The screw is entered into a shaft lock nut

10:56 AM

Which model is that?

Ah, I see. You're talking about the 'basic extruder'. The one above is v4.

11:01 AM

For the smaller one, I am afraid you have to get creative. Let me check the files ...

Ok - Found it - I am looking at the right one now

11:02 AM

Is there a standardised coupling to the dies at the end of the barrel

Not really. it also depends what screw you take. The wood auger is a little bit more difficult to interface:

11:14 AM

The 'compression' screw comes with a round shaft and keyway.

11:15 AM

Depends really on what machine shop capabilities you have. If you're fully equipped, it's easy

Are there any specs /design calcs listed for the v4 unit - I have had a quick look through the folder but couldnt see anything. What is the output rpm of the gearbox? (Without VFD adjustment)

11:21 AM

I am coming at this a couple of ways - I do have access to a couple of decent workshops for prototyping but I am keen to look at the feasibility of extruding small bore PE pipe

Specs : https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro

I guess there are a few variables but do you know what the basic volumetric flow rate of the extruder is at the design speed of 263 rpm? I am just trying to do some rough calcs. Thanks

The 263 RPM (1:5) turned out to be way too fast on a variety of plastic types but also use cases. We ended with an average speed of 100 - 150 RPMs to produce a good and consistent melt. Some other cases wanted even much slower, around 50 - 80 RPMs. There is a longer barrel on "Robodigg" which helps melting it over a longer period. (edited)

11:35 AM

Flow rate however depends on flake/granulate size, plastic type, and speed, yes. It's relative slow ... (edited)

Yes I was looking at getting the screw from RobotDigg - thanks for the info

hi guys one question about the electric wireing for the injection machine. You wired the negative wire over the SSR´s for the heating coils. Do you have a special reason for that, like saving the relais? Because from an electronic standpoint i always would switch the positive wireing and just collect all the negativ wires in one point. Also from a security standpoint i learned that it is safer to switch the plus and the minus is permantly connected.

welcome

1:41 PM

I am from Algeria

Hello people, i'm planning to build the injection machine, i have some questions and Hope someone can help me. P.plastic VS Arbor Press (taller estetica and Plastic hub types), which One Is Better? It looks the Arbor Press can deliver more pressure but it seems to have less volume capacity. Is that correct? What is the advantage of the Arbor Press over the p.plastic One? Where can i find the Gear, in Europe, for the Arbor Press if i decide to go with this build?

1

Another question Is about the injection barrel and plunger. I found a website where i can order a drawn steel barrel 35x5mm smooth inside. I found Also a steel rectified plunger 25mm but i don't know if the diameter Is accurate and if It Will be the right fit inside the barrel. Do i Need a plunger slightly smaller than 25mm to allow some tolerance or 25mm Is fine? Is steel good enough or Better to go steinless steel?

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@Fabio M. You can also use a welded barrel and smoothen the weld. It's what we are doing on our build. Stainless for the rod is nice but normal steel works too. Just make sure it doesn't rust.

@Till interesting...how can you smoothen the weld inside a barrel 53 cm long? Which diameter are you using? Also if i understand well the injection made for dissasembly uses a tube with welded steel caps as a pluger instead of the steel rod . Anyone knows about It? Thanks for reply

Fabio M.

@Till interesting...how can you smoothen the weld inside a barrel 53 cm long? Which diameter are you using? Also if i understand well the injection made for dissasembly uses a tube with welded steel caps as a pluger instead of the steel rod . Anyone knows about It? Thanks for reply

You basically just drive something through the tube. This guy here does it with a piece of high-speed steel but, depending on the thickness of the weld, a fitting piece of pipe might be enough.

11:18 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jr4Capx8XI

Fireball Tool

Tips To Remove Weld From Tubing

1

11:19 AM

Around minute 6:45

@Fabio M. we are using an inside diameter of 27mm. And for the rod a fitting pipe with a cap welded on.

7:48 PM

7:49 PM

It's just a piece of 5mm steel welded onto the end and ground flat

Hello, did some of you bought something to bmh solution in turquia? I bought two machine parts and didn answer my emails

@Momo und die Zeitdiebe i cant find any international source esp on alibaba that has the cheaper prices i saw barely a year ago but heres some slightly costlier ones with US prices

1:27 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Factory-Price-PP-PE-Soft-PVC_60021295555.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_title.1f67541f6ln1pT

1:27 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/High-output-plastic-granule-cutter-plastic_62252616622.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_title.1f67541f6ln1pT

1:27 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/hot-selling-plastic-pellets-cutter-small_62210189213.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_title.1f67541f6ln1pT

1:28 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/high-output-recyclage-plastic-bottle-film_1600274838546.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_title.1f67541f6ln1pT

1:28 PM

all of these are prices for north America

1:31 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ABS-PP-PE-PS-PA-PET_60801862144.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.53fa51faQ1yOMM

1:31 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/ABS-PP-PE-PS-PA-PET_62374541249.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.53fa51faQ1yOMM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Plastic-Granule-Cutter-pelletizing-machine-Recycled_62252215837.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.53fa51faQ1yOMM

1:42 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Shandong-hot-selling-plastic-pellets-cutter_62390721802.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.53fa51faQ1yOMM

1:44 PM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Recycling-Machine-Scrap-ABS-PP-PE_1600371141515.html (edited)

1:45 PM

and heres the indian ones

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/dana-cutter-6-inch-12986342333.html

1:59 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/plastic-dana-cutter-machine-21994233362.html (edited)

2:00 PM

also regardless of where you are something i just learnt is searching for 'dana cutter' as opposed to 'pellet/strand cutter' will give you much cheaper/smaller machines

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/plastic-dana-granules-cutting-machine-9211692297.html (edited)

2:52 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/granule-cutter-9976339755.html

2:55 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/dana-cutter-machine-20297082648.html

2:55 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/dana-cutter-machine-22633055988.html

2:57 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/dana-cutting-machine-7340596691.html

3:01 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/automatic-dana-cutter-machine-20302998148.html

3:02 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/plastic-granules-cutting-machine-23245626730.html

3:03 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/dana-cutter-machine-13489912948.html

3:04 PM

https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/dana-cutter-machine-10937261588.html

3:06 PM

^all of the these are below the 500$ mark

@sponsoons - great work, thanks a million. I suppose I stop my own 6k pellet cutter project, just import one, get it up to EU standard and metrics, publish as OpenSource, cash in 80% profits and done

Joking, let's see what's really inside. The helical cutter looks like a nice exercise.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

@sponsoons - great work, thanks a million. I suppose I stop my own 6k pellet cutter project, just import one, get it up to EU standard and metrics, publish as OpenSource, cash in 80% profits and done

Joking, let's see what's really inside. The helical cutter looks like a nice exercise.

i was planning that except make it sketchier and dirt cheap to build

3:25 PM

then release as opensource

I am all ears, will DM you. 1000$ - is this for real ? Here you'd pay that just for electronics, not even the heatbands. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/plastic-pellets-granulator-machine-screw-extruder_62367528277.html?spm=a2700.wholesale.0.0.2ffe70fcx75mbE

Plastic Pellets Granulator Machine Screw Extruder Plastic Recycling...

Plastic Pellets Granulator Machine Screw Extruder Plastic Recycling Extruder Machine - Buy Pellets Granulator,Extruder Plastic,Plastic Recycling Granulator Product on Alibaba.com

but honestly imo unless you charge premium rates cuz it 'recycled' or whatever it would be very hard to compete industrially or commercially, cuz there's always some fellow running on exploitation and horribly bad systems that can do it much cheaper than you for a similar quality

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

I am all ears, will DM you. 1000$ - is this for real ? Here you'd pay that just for electronics, not even the heatbands. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/plastic-pellets-granulator-machine-screw-extruder_62367528277.html?spm=a2700.wholesale.0.0.2ffe70fcx75mbE

thats the thing with a lot of pricing,i know that this price is technically possible and not *very *hard to achieve,esp if you are in asia or somewhere else cheap or even just have the right suppliers

3:31 PM

and mainly if you dont mind dropping you quality

Yeah, geez, let's rent a boat and ship a hundred tons over here

lol

sponsoons

and mainly if you dont mind dropping you quality

i know from personal experience that if you dont mind your machine needing a bit of maintenance every now and then just not working like a commercial machine then theres a huge amount of costs you can cut

3:35 PM

like at this one place id visited in india what theyd done is used ceramic element heaters for their machine[the kind that are used in hot plates,water heaters and iron] and according to them it had got down their heater cost by a lot,the only thing is you need to find somebody wholl produce those heaters for you in a small batch

Well, I'd be in permanent trouble - here in the EU, most of the clients complain already about a few missing bolts and ask for big compensations whilst having wrecked your administration for days because they get can't the shipping straight. (edited)

sponsoons

like at this one place id visited in india what theyd done is used ceramic element heaters for their machine[the kind that are used in hot plates,water heaters and iron] and according to them it had got down their heater cost by a lot,the only thing is you need to find somebody wholl produce those heaters for you in a small batch

cuz those are normally only meant for big quantities but these guys had managed to find a scrap/second hand heater salvaged from a scrap yard

Fuck, 'good bye made in Europe ...' (edited)

3:37 PM

But yea, get it. That's how I know it also here from vendors (edited)

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

Well, I'd be in permanent trouble - here in the EU, most of the clients complain already about a few missing bolts and ask for big compensations whilst having wrecked your administration for days because they get can't the shipping straight. (edited)

thats the problem,here my 'warranty' is just call up and yell at them until i get the desired result

3:38 PM

which *mostly *works

3:38 PM

but ofcourse there are problems but those are rare because here you almost always buy through somebody (edited)

3:39 PM

like having a middleman is very accepted if not a needed thing

3:39 PM

so for a fee theyll fulfil pretty much every want you could have

3:40 PM

but mostly they take care of stuff like shipping and pricing for you which when dealing with asia or any country that isn't western the right guy can make a huge price difference

3:41 PM

so if youre not local these guys are essential

3:42 PM

since either theyll have contacts who'll get you a good price or they'll act as a barrier since foreigners are often charged a very high premium

3:43 PM

but moslty its just for having a guy on the ground wholl do some basic QC and dirty work for

sponsoons

thats the problem,here my 'warranty' is just call up and yell at them until i get the desired result

also my machines are cheaper but also sketchier and need maintenance more often

Which makes me an accomplice, in exploitation, price dumping and wrecking local markets. Not sure I ended my carrier doing exactly the same

Too bad, pretty much anything is done down there ...

sponsoons

also my machines are cheaper but also sketchier and need maintenance more often

but tbh esp if youre just doing it as a hobby then its ok,you just take some time to learn how to patch up and oil stuff and thats

3:52 PM

it

sponsoons

but tbh esp if youre just doing it as a hobby then its ok,you just take some time to learn how to patch up and oil stuff and thats

Far from it, looking actually now to go back there - to paid fun (R&D,...). Scaling up was on the table and it's possible and easy, but still - I'd need to charge the hell out of it whilst not adding much to it. (edited)

The other option I didn't try yet is to just outsource everything possible. That's how it's done here anyway, aka 'shop to shop'. A year ago or so, I had always big smile looking at 1.5T fresh laser cuts, now my eyes are just rolling

I tried handing over welding, etc.. to some time-based workers, but no success. Seems that the good guys working always somewhere else. (edited)

4:21 PM

Anyway, let's try moding some imports

@sponsoons - what kind of pellet cutter design you're after ? The Face-die-cutting variant seems to work with v4, a bit clumsy to set up but doable. Just the involved machining comes with a heavy price. The other variant, nozzle with 2-4 output streams -> air cooling -> cutting; seems a lot easier, didn't finish yet but at least something below 500e. There are small replacement HSS knifes you can utilize.

Momo und die Zeitdiebe

@sponsoons - what kind of pellet cutter design you're after ? The Face-die-cutting variant seems to work with v4, a bit clumsy to set up but doable. Just the involved machining comes with a heavy price. The other variant, nozzle with 2-4 output streams -> air cooling -> cutting; seems a lot easier, didn't finish yet but at least something below 500e. There are small replacement HSS knifes you can utilize.

the second variant is what im after most of the commercial recyclers just use water cuz its cheaper and in this setup doesn't need circulation

7:47 PM

if you can find one or have access to chaff cutter they seem like theyd work perfectly

7:48 PM

most chaff cutter are specifically designed to be easy to repair and mainly to have easily sharpen able blades most of them all so have an infeed mechanism or 'puller', they are also quite cheap

unrelated but i found a model for a plastic washer if anybody feels like trying their luck https://grabcad.com/library/plastic-scrap-washing-machine-1

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!

https://youtu.be/MQUTbmA-rJk?t=154

INNOVATION HUB

Plastic Granule From Waste Plastic | Convert Waste Plastic into Pl...

5:17 PM

@Momo und die Zeitdiebe take a look at this,esp the die

5:18 PM

its basically just a peice of flat iron with holes drilled into it for the plastic and two tapped holes at the side for the bolts for attachment ,some of the cheaper designs dont even have bolts, they are just welded on

5:19 PM

and the other cheaper designs are even more bare bones

5:21 PM

most are a motor and piece of pipe+end cap on one end and a flange or just two bolts on the other side and a cast extruder 'die' is welded on to an endcap or plate with holes in it

5:22 PM

but something to remember for all of you is casting a screw and then quickly hand finishing it with an angle grinder is a good and very cheap method of making extruder screws

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

at least for them neither the pressures nor the temps are a problem, if you notice it has two stages or extruders, the first melts and mixes and the second is a low pressure high speed one that just pushes the plastic through the die,the gap or fall between the two stages serves as degassing as well as accumulation ,the temps once set aren't really bothered with or they have a set unchangeable temp

5:26 PM

from what ive seen the first extruder is started and allowed to run and then the second is started this allows for a bit of extra plastic in the second extruder which allows it to move faster

5:27 PM

some models ive seen also use the first stage as a low pressure extruder that melts,mixes and filters the plastic [or a combo of some of the features

5:28 PM

since a low pressure extruder that means you can process more plastic

5:29 PM

and ive seen a lot of the more sketchy/shoddy places using higher temps and faster speeds to do it

5:30 PM

it needs a fine hand or just trial and error but its a good of of maximizing things

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

what is the reason for the distributor or cone in the middle?

6:46 PM

wouldnt it just complicate things

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

ah ok

6:57 PM

have you tried the other method?

6:57 PM

ah ok same

6:59 PM

neat! looking forward to seeing your results

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

is there any problem with water baths/

6:59 PM

?

https://discordapp.com/channels/586676777334865928/598888903994376201/912707113069973554

Hello does anyone have dimensions for the Shredder Box Kit XL (21 Teeth & New Version 3.3)? My senior design team is looking to build a frame around the shredder and integrate a motor, and would like the dimensions to be able detail the assembly process in our report. If it is not possible to acquire dimensions, I would like to know the reason so that I can make a comment on it in the report. Thank you!

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Thank you for the information

Fun thing is that the machines are licensed under CC so not sure how these proprietary derivatives work out

@NoYuza The 3.3 is here but not uploaded to the PP academy yet. https://wikifactory.com/@precious-plastic/shredder-basic-33 (edited)

2

5:06 PM

First successful injection tests with our newly built machine. Fork for scale

https://www.mdpi.com/2411-5134/5/3/26

Open-Source Grinding Machine for Compression Screw Manufacturing

Some of the most promising distributed recycling and additive manufacturing (DRAM) technical systems use fused particle fabrication (FPF) or fused granular fabrication (FGF), where compression screws force post-consumer waste plastic through a heated nozzle for direct 3D printing. To assist the technical evolution of these systems, this study pr...

3

8:01 PM

heres something i found that i thought yall would love

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6P7IGj5Wa7k

Joshua Pearce

Open Source Grinding Machine Operation for Compression Screw Manufa...

A few days ago a gentlemen approached us with the intention of getting a vPro shreeder scaled to be able to crush tires... We are quoting new material such as a 30hp motor and upgrading the blades form SS to D2 steel and upscaling the overall size to 59x81 cm in the feeding zone One part that got us working right now is the transmition gear, because of the torque needed we have seen some shreeders with other systems than being directly connected via motor reducer (ill post a picture below) Someone have work with this type of gear that could illuminated us or be able to chat about it?? feel free to post directly here or pm

(edited)

5:29 PM

Does anyone know the reliability for the shredder box? I want to be able to put the information in a table using the format "mean time between failures, m= X years, with a corresponding per unit failure rate λ = X yr^-1," but any information y'all have is great. Thanks! (edited)

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/plastic-bottle-crusher-shredder-grinder-for_1600069780132.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.10b614b64Bjgk3

Plastic Bottle Crusher Shredder Grinder For Recycling - Buy Hard Pl...

Plastic Bottle Crusher Shredder Grinder For Recycling - Buy Hard Plastic Crusher,Plastic Shredder For Sale,Plastic Crusher Blades Grinder Product on Alibaba.com

10:30 AM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Vaner-Good-Quality-Small-Paper-Crusher_62152956034.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.10b614b64Bjgk3

Vaner Good Quality Small Paper Crusher Scrap Plastic Grinder Mill -...

Vaner Good Quality Small Paper Crusher Scrap Plastic Grinder Mill - Buy Crushed Plastic Scrap,Plastic Grinder Mill,Plastic Mill Product on Alibaba.com

10:31 AM

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/300kg-H-Waste-Small-Plastic-Bottle_62233855599.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.10b614b64Bjgk3

300kg/h Waste Small Plastic Bottle Recycling Strong Crusher - Buy W...

300kg/h Waste Small Plastic Bottle Recycling Strong Crusher - Buy Waste Small Strong Crusher,Plastic Bottle Recycling Crusher,Small Plastic Crusher Machine Product on Alibaba.com

10:31 AM

some machines i found

does anyone from precious plastics sell blank mold frames that are compatible with the injection machines they sell?

Does anyone know what brand this injection machine is

7:17 PM

Because I don’t know how to set it up and I need more info to do so

Deleted User

Does anyone know what brand this injection machine is

These looks like Precious Plastic machines

7:44 PM

what info did you need?

How to get a mold to attach to it

There should be a threaded nozzle on the bottom that you can screw a mold onto

I need a blank mold so if there was a way to somehow get an adapter on it to connect to it

can you take a picture of the barrel from the underside?

7:46 PM

what do you mean by blank mold?

I will try later I currently don’t have access to the machine

7:46 PM

An empty mold frame, I will be putting a custom silicone mold in it

I see what you're saying. usually people design a mold with the threads already included. Perhaps if you can have someone create the blank and include the threads?

7:49 PM

but leave a hollow in the center where you'd put your silicone

Yeah but the part that is confusing me is how I would attach those screw threads onto a blank mold

another question here

8:10 PM

what material are the axels of the shreder pro made of

8:11 PM

and chould i increase the sise of them to use cheaper materials

8:11 PM

and or make them stronger

Deleted User

Yeah but the part that is confusing me is how I would attach those screw threads onto a blank mold

the mould screws on. I can find a video in a few hours when I'm at home/ on my computer...

more free mold files:

10:24 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-table-grommet-trinota-1 -something nice and functional

1

10:24 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-custom-honey-dipper-trinota-1 - something intresting for you to show of recycled plastic

10:25 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-clothes-hanger-trinota-1 -again something functional

10:26 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-t-joint-trinota-1 -this is something i was quite happy to find as not only is it useful for me but it would allow people to join together small/short pipe pieces

10:27 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-rubber-handle-trinota-1 -a mold for a rubber handle but i dont doubt that i could be used for plastic as well;it should work well with soft plastic like PE,HDPE/LDPE and others

10:27 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-funnel-trinota-1 -functional

10:27 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-cup-holder-trinota-1 something neat!

10:27 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/portable-pet-feeder-water-mold-1 -for those who have and like pets

10:28 AM

https://grabcad.com/library/clear-plastic-container-mpld-1 -something great; a mold for the thin walled plastic containers[the takeout kind],they are nice as they fit into each other

10:29 AM

sadly i havent been able to find the mold files for their lids

any cad mold files about iphone case or carabiner?

ruragoy

any cad mold files about iphone case or carabiner?

You can find them (and much more) in the how-to's

iphone case: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-recycled-phone-cover-using-cnc-milling Carabiner: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-carabiner-cnc-vs-lasercut

Question

2:12 PM

We're whould I find the drawings for the shredder pro

Taire

We're whould I find the drawings for the shredder pro

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download here is the download kit, go direct to the last link "machine shop"

Precious Plastic Community Platform

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

thanks

Hello, I stumbled across a video today of what seems to be a relatively simple diy blow mold setup. As far as I can tell this is a highschool teacher who has a few small scale machines that he uses for engineering class. Is there any way to potentially figure out how to make his setups?

1

5:43 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4127N_hFMg

Wade Olson

Blow Molding

I posted a picture of this fine piece of machinery in the plastic chat with no response yet so I scrolled over here to see if it will be met warmly. I give you.. The fantastic, enhanced width manipulating, hash slashing, PET string cutter. Also I just wanted to say hi to everyone and thought this would be an acceptable introduction.

3:56 AM

RingoBombingo(naps)

Hello, I stumbled across a video today of what seems to be a relatively simple diy blow mold setup. As far as I can tell this is a highschool teacher who has a few small scale machines that he uses for engineering class. Is there any way to potentially figure out how to make his setups?

hi,so from what i understand of his machine its pretty simple,mostly

5:26 AM

the complicated part is the die or what the plastic is extruded through,this part is rather tricky to make as its essentially a metal rod suspended in a pipe around which plastic is extruded,giving you that 'tube' shape

5:28 AM

this die is rather tricky to manufacture with any method due to its design,one way is to get a metal rod,a pipe and some thin metal strips and try welding them together, the other way is to machine the whole die out of metal

5:31 AM

as you can see both ways have their problems, welding would require a good bit of time to first weld and then grind everything off(if you dont grind/polish and smoothen everything then your finished product will have 'scars' and scratches on it),if you choose machining it then there will be the big cost of the machining itself in addition to designing the die

5:32 AM

another thing is the die on his machine is quite small overall making it even harder to make

also the blowmoulder goes less with Sustainability and PP these bottle are mostly use d once and tossed and the idea of PP is to make something out of recycled plastic that will get a whole lot of uses out of it.

6:33 AM

so something thick and something that is durable. and on the chance that it does break they'll bring it back to be made into something else

6:34 AM

but you don't want to be constantly remaking the same plastic you want to be recycling as much plastic as possible

Liri (They/He)

also the blowmoulder goes less with Sustainability and PP these bottle are mostly use d once and tossed and the idea of PP is to make something out of recycled plastic that will get a whole lot of uses out of it.

they are actually often reycled though not under that name,due to their thickness they also dont degrade much IMO

6:58 AM

the interesting thing about blowmolding is its the process which needs the most plastic reused as it often produces a lot of extra plastic in the form of flash,this plastic is always recycled

does anyone know how to put a 3/4" npt connector onto an aluminum mold

Liri (They/He)

also the blowmoulder goes less with Sustainability and PP these bottle are mostly use d once and tossed and the idea of PP is to make something out of recycled plastic that will get a whole lot of uses out of it.

I was actually wondering if it were accessible for making art. I live in japan where there is a strong community for using soft vinyl for making toys. The process is toxic in almost every stage and pvc isn't easily recycled. My goal was to be able to produce art toys and sculptures for myself and others using blow molding recycled plastics and raise awareness for other people in a growing community of artists around the world. There are several different types of blow molding, and yes that is how bottles are made, however there are also plenty of applications to make things that have decades of life in them and won't end up in a landfill. My

Does anyone use a manual hydraulic press ? Any tips or recommendations / modifications. I’m looking to get one as a cold press for moulds after my small sheet press to reduce warping .

I think Brothers Make uses one manually they usually answer Instagram DMs pretty frequently if you wanna try that they also have a YouTube video with all the modification they made.

1

Feel like I’ve seen this before but can’t find it now… Has any one seen a cutting wheel or knife at the end of the extrusion machine to cut thin extrusion at set time interval so extrusions are same length? (edited)

janitordebris

Feel like I’ve seen this before but can’t find it now… Has any one seen a cutting wheel or knife at the end of the extrusion machine to cut thin extrusion at set time interval so extrusions are same length? (edited)

if you want something like your filament is cut into x-inch lengths,thats doable,but if you want to cut you multilevel hollow profile into slices its going to be much harder

3:15 AM

for the first case all you need is a knife/blade attached to a slow spinning motor

does anyone know how to put a 3/4" npt connector onto an aluminum mold? i submitted a design that i needed a mold made of with this connector and the prices are very high, so is there a way that i can do it myself

Deleted User

does anyone know how to put a 3/4" npt connector onto an aluminum mold? i submitted a design that i needed a mold made of with this connector and the prices are very high, so is there a way that i can do it myself

Yeah, just have your mold design include a spot mark where you will drill and then get a 3/4" npt tap and 59/64" drill.

Ok that’s good because someone quoted me for over $400 for a 1cmx1cmx6cm object and it scared me

I guess it depends on the complexity of the work, detail and steps to completion. Maybe eliminating this step will drop the mold cost lower than the time you'd put in and money for the tooling.

sponsoons

if you want something like your filament is cut into x-inch lengths,thats doable,but if you want to cut you multilevel hollow profile into slices its going to be much harder

Thank you @sponsoons you’re correct, just filament like extrusion. I’ve got a little motor that is perfect. I’ll work on it and share. Thought I saw something here or out there that was off the shelf. But simple slow spinning knife should work, you’re correct.

janitordebris

Thank you @sponsoons you’re correct, just filament like extrusion. I’ve got a little motor that is perfect. I’ll work on it and share. Thought I saw something here or out there that was off the shelf. But simple slow spinning knife should work, you’re correct.

there are many off the shelf options,sadly they are meant for the big industrial machines (edited)

CitSciWorkshop

Yeah, just have your mold design include a spot mark where you will drill and then get a 3/4" npt tap and 59/64" drill.

fopr the 3/4" npt do i need a male to male connector

Liri (They/He)

I think Brothers Make uses one manually they usually answer Instagram DMs pretty frequently if you wanna try that they also have a YouTube video with all the modification they made.

Yes I’ve talked to them about the bottle jack one. I was looking at pre made ones on a metal frame .

2

Any link Where could we buy a shredder and extruder

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/ @NickySo

Precious Plastic Bazar

Plastice to sell products, machines, and plastic. Empowering our recycling ecosystem around the world.

Thank you @Liri (They/He)

1

does anyone know if this would work if i put it on a mold

CitSciWorkshop

Yeah, just have your mold design include a spot mark where you will drill and then get a 3/4" npt tap and 59/64" drill.

does this tap look about right?

Yes, it looks right to me.

and does that male to male connector seem about right as well?

It's always hard to say either way from a photo, but yeah.

can i use a 3/4 forstner bit for the hole

I don't know how well a forster would hold up on aluminum, might not be the right shape. HSS drill bit works fine.

oh and also since the thing im trying to produce is really small do you think the 3/4 npt to 3/4 npt is too big?

6:59 AM

should i go to 3/4 to 1/2 or smaller?

Oh, yeah, 1/4 might be more appropriate.

also the 59/64 hss bits i see have a cylinder for the connector but the mill i have access has that 3 side clamp on it, can i still put that bit into the mill?

also the npt connectors on amazon concern me, they say operating temperature maximum of 121C for a steel connector

Those fittings might have some non metal pieces in them since NPT is for pipe. We use brass fittings and they work fine. (edited)

it looks like its all metal

7:28 AM

im trying to go from a 3/4 male to 1/2 female, then a 1/2 male to 1/4 male

7:28 AM

since i can't find one that goes straight from 3/4 to 1/4

7:31 AM

and also when it says 3/4 npt is there a chance that it won't connect to another 3/4 npt due to exact measurements? (edited)

They should all be made to some exacting standard.

i saw this so i got concerned

I wouldn't use a forster bit on metal, instead you can mark out your shape on the piece, drill a series of small holes around the perimeter, then cut between the holes and file it to your final size.

Deleted User

it looks like its all metal

Might be nickle coted brass

nickle shouldn't melt at that low of a temperature though

10:52 AM

unless its like temperature maximum at a certain pressure

idk

12:13 PM

that was my best guess tbh

https://youtu.be/GQjqR1jXbdQ?t=91

Project 03

PVC Pipe Manufacturing – A Tour of a Local Factory

3:38 PM

https://youtu.be/xw6Hy39TOu0?t=184

Visit Vlogs

pvc pipe manufacturing process pvc pipe making process

3:38 PM

two different designs for making and cutting pellets

3:38 PM

both of them use recycled plastic (edited)

3:39 PM

the intresting thing about both these designs is that the dont have nay cooling while making the pellets,they simply cut the pellets while hot their dies and pellet cutters are also very simplistic and efficient

3:39 PM

this designs looks perfect if anybody wants to try making pellets

3:40 PM

@janitordebris take a look at these

1

4:48 PM

@Deleted User we did some with a m12-1/2 nipplex. (edited)

4:50 PM

But this niplex are some expensive, and it is made from Al.

4:54 PM

Now, we are waiting for a 1/2"..¿ male?.. for do some with plumbering accesorios... ( Copper, Stainless, regular steel, etc...)

4:55 PM

I think we will used regular steel. Our plate are in regular steel. If we use cooper o stainles less, we will have "electrolisis". ( sorry my english is not soo good)

4:58 PM

*electrolysis

Yeah that’s what i am trying to do

9:08 PM

Something similar to the photo

@Deleted User

9:20 PM

Today i just buy some for do some.prototipes

Can any mold manufacturers on here reach out to me please! Looking to get some molds made for injector

what kind of molds

12:26 PM

i work at a company that makes molds for injection molding

Hello guys, seeking for advice. Anyone experienced with Basic Extruder V2.0. How thick and long, plastic profile, you were able to create ? im interested in maximum possible dimensions, with good surface quality. thanks !

HI all - wondering about the beam molds - should that have some sort of pressure release on it or should have an air vent in the end? We had one made, but I can't see how the air inside is meant to escape as it is sealed at the far end. I ran my first little experiment the other day but it seemed to stop part way along and not take in any more plastic.

@Deleted User do you have beam molds and are they sealed at the far end? I saw a message and a video about putting in a wooden block inside the mold for a smoother finish and wondered about doing that for a little pressure inside but then not having the far end sealed.

Buongiorno.. ho realizzato uno macchina a compressione (forno con pressa) avrei bisogno di un consiglio per creare lo stampo ( volevo partire da un vaso) c’è qualcuno che può aiutarmi?

Neat Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZeu8LAnTvw A Video by FormLabs on using 3D Printed Injection Molds

Formlabs

How to Use 3D Printed Injection Molds for Low-Volume Production

Chineseand

@Deleted User do you have beam molds and are they sealed at the far end? I saw a message and a video about putting in a wooden block inside the mold for a smoother finish and wondered about doing that for a little pressure inside but then not having the far end sealed.

I don't have a beam mold yet, I've been working with bricks and blanks mostly

mattiabaky

Buongiorno.. ho realizzato uno macchina a compressione (forno con pressa) avrei bisogno di un consiglio per creare lo stampo ( volevo partire da un vaso) c’è qualcuno che può aiutarmi?

@mattiabaky che tipo di aiuto ti serve?

dadda29993

@mattiabaky che tipo di aiuto ti serve?

Volevo capire se io posso versare la plastica sminuzzata nello stampo e tramite la pressione e i valore generato dal forno riesco a ottenere il prodotto.. se ne avete già creato uno se è possibile vedere una foto per farmi un idea

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder-pro/shredder-pro-fully-built/v4-shredder-pro-improved-and-semi-new/

V4 Shredder Pro Improved and Semi-new

12:40 PM

Hey guys! I just posted our barely-used V4 Shredder Pro in the bazar! We are based in Copenhagen, Denmark, but we'd find shipping solutions to anywhere ;^) I'm open for selling tips

mattiabaky

Volevo capire se io posso versare la plastica sminuzzata nello stampo e tramite la pressione e i valore generato dal forno riesco a ottenere il prodotto.. se ne avete già creato uno se è possibile vedere una foto per farmi un idea

Io ho creato un vasetto ma con la macchina da iniezione.. Secondo me dovresti riuscirci perché avevo provato tempo fa a fare una ciotola con il metodo della compressione. La parte più difficile sarà quella di capire quanta plastica sciolta ti servirà per riuscire a completare lo stampo.. Quindi penso che dovrai aggiungere plastica e continuare a farla fondere perché una volta fusa diminuisce di volume

Is it possible to use a hydraulic heat press for making sheet plastic LDPE?

dadda29993

Io ho creato un vasetto ma con la macchina da iniezione.. Secondo me dovresti riuscirci perché avevo provato tempo fa a fare una ciotola con il metodo della compressione. La parte più difficile sarà quella di capire quanta plastica sciolta ti servirà per riuscire a completare lo stampo.. Quindi penso che dovrai aggiungere plastica e continuare a farla fondere perché una volta fusa diminuisce di volume

Ok grazie.. è possibile usare PET e HDPE?

mattiabaky

Ok grazie.. è possibile usare PET e HDPE?

Cerca di non mischiare tipi diversi di plastica. Ti consiglio di usare hdpe che si scioglie a una temperatura più bassa ed e più facile da lavorare

I’m having an issue with an inkbird ITC on my injection moulding machine. The temp is stuck on 150 and I can’t change the setting. The lower one adjusts fine by pressing the up and down buttons and sideways to move over then set. But when I press up or down on the top one decimal place just blinks on the right hand side and it doesn’t move up or down or to the left with that button. The set seems to work on it . Any tips / thoughts ? Thanks

Hello, I´m from Portugal and I´m a Teacher and a Maker and i like to know where can I buy a shredder machine and a plastic melting extruder machine in my country?

Does anyone know if the hole in an aluminum mold needs to be exactly center or if I can have a little off

Something like this

Deleted User

Does anyone know if the hole in an aluminum mold needs to be exactly center or if I can have a little off

most times you can away with no having it dead center,but it may affect how evenly your plastic is distributed

6:38 AM

but if you are using a manual machine i feel it shouldnt be that much of a problem

i have the machine that you press down on

Deleted User

i have the machine that you press down on

you put plastic inside a tube and press down on it?

yeah that kind

yeah then i should work

6:39 AM

but at the same time it couldnt work as well

6:39 AM

so it may need a bit of experimenting

ill try this mold first then one with a smaller hole then

generally you start with a smaller hole and make your way up

how does one heat up molds?

Hello after some advise. The shredder Input dose not list PET. Is it not up to the task? As this will be what we have most of

jacksnook

Hello after some advise. The shredder Input dose not list PET. Is it not up to the task? As this will be what we have most of

PET can be shredded, but its a tough material. It will dull blades faster and is more prone to clogging.

Deleted User

how does one heat up molds?

any way you feel like

8:33 AM

you can use a normal oven,a gas torch,stove,heat gun,hot air gun,induction

8:33 AM

pretty much anything thatll get it up to temp

CitSciWorkshop

PET can be shredded, but its a tough material. It will dull blades faster and is more prone to clogging.

Okay thank you. May have to look for a more commercial machine

Deleted User

Does anyone know if the hole in an aluminum mold needs to be exactly center or if I can have a little off

Your sprue hole is much too large. We made that same mold. 4 attempts to get it right.

same study?

It is a astm test sample mold.

yes

We are doing for plasticbank

would a 1/8 hole be better?

11:39 AM

well the hole itself isn't representative of the actual hole

11:39 AM

the hole would be 1/4, but the tap requires a 7/16 hole

We have a 5mm x 3.7mm hole on the shorter side

what did you guys do wrong in previous attempts that i should avoid?

The hand operated molder does not have enough pressure

11:41 AM

We got sinkage issues and under fill issues

11:41 AM

We changed to hydraulic molder

that won't be possible for me, can i still use the hand press?

11:43 AM

Hdpe is too thick to hand press

11:44 AM

Maybe you can add a pneumatic cylinder to your press

11:45 AM

That notch in the specs is vague

11:45 AM

One sentence says that is made by the test tool, not in the mold

11:46 AM

But it is not really clear, and my instructions were on a blurry jpeg pic

is there any way to still hand press hdpe without pneumatics or a hydraulic press?

11:49 AM

i really don't have much of another choice

You can retrofit your hand operated molder with pneumatics

11:53 AM

Less than 1000usd

11:53 AM

We are retrofitting one of our molders

11:53 AM

With pneumatic

Hello guys. Im looking for quote of extruderPRO screw. Any manufacturer in Europe (prefferably) of it here ? thanks (edited)

@Deleted User you can try to warm up the tooling and add a heater element at the nozzle.

found an interesting thing today, the blades for a plastic pelletizer [blades-the important and hard to produce part] https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pelletizer-Blades-out-of-D2-tool_60036440994.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normal_offer.d_title.217b3cd7MbSsQX

Pelletizer Blades Out Of D2 Tool Steel - Buy Pelletizer Blades Out ...

Pelletizer Blades Out Of D2 Tool Steel - Buy Pelletizer Blades Out Of D2 Tool Steel,Pelletizer Blades China Manfuacturer Price,Pelletizer Blades Used In Plastic Pellets Making Product on Alibaba.com

Hi guys, I'm Sudheesh Madhavan from India. It is my first time here. I'm looking forward to making lego bricks out of fly ash and almost 10% plastic (not sorted). I'm planning to do it in 3 stages: First by mixing both of them in an agglomerator, then melting the plastic using an extruder. Last, the hot mix will be pressed in a mould of the desired shape. But, the binding between fly ash is not satisfactory and the brick is not looking good aesthetically. Kindly share your suggestions. #archived-machines #deleted-channel

Martin PP Slovakia

Hello guys. Im looking for quote of extruderPRO screw. Any manufacturer in Europe (prefferably) of it here ? thanks (edited)

hello we chould make this at my job, however. we whould need to grind that, as we dont have the toolling for the lathe. this whould make a very nice screw, super accurate but rly expensive. (edited)

5:14 PM

we also have the option to harden it and then grind to final size

Taire

hello we chould make this at my job, however. we whould need to grind that, as we dont have the toolling for the lathe. this whould make a very nice screw, super accurate but rly expensive. (edited)

thanks, i found already manufacturer. Robotdigg is his name (edited)

ahh

Deleted User

is there any way to still hand press hdpe without pneumatics or a hydraulic press?

maybe using lot of such a clamps, could replace hydraulic press ? or press in general .. i mean its very simple solution.. and of course less pressing force created (edited)

Martin PP Slovakia

thanks, i found already manufacturer. Robotdigg is his name (edited)

they have them in stock?

5:17 PM

that rly suprises me ngl

Taire

they have them in stock?

https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project here is link, for brilliant price ! im not sure, if they have it on stock, try to contact them

30mm diameter extrusion screw for Precious Plastic project - RobotDigg

Screw and Barrel for Plastic Recycling RobotDigg are glad to work with worldwide Plastic Recycling projects which can he...

yea i looked em up

5:18 PM

apperently more poeple make these machines then i thought

Sudheesh

Hi guys, I'm Sudheesh Madhavan from India. It is my first time here. I'm looking forward to making lego bricks out of fly ash and almost 10% plastic (not sorted). I'm planning to do it in 3 stages: First by mixing both of them in an agglomerator, then melting the plastic using an extruder. Last, the hot mix will be pressed in a mould of the desired shape. But, the binding between fly ash is not satisfactory and the brick is not looking good aesthetically. Kindly share your suggestions. #archived-machines #deleted-channel

do you mean actual Lego bricks shaped construction material or just the interlocking bricks?

Sudheesh

Hi guys, I'm Sudheesh Madhavan from India. It is my first time here. I'm looking forward to making lego bricks out of fly ash and almost 10% plastic (not sorted). I'm planning to do it in 3 stages: First by mixing both of them in an agglomerator, then melting the plastic using an extruder. Last, the hot mix will be pressed in a mould of the desired shape. But, the binding between fly ash is not satisfactory and the brick is not looking good aesthetically. Kindly share your suggestions. #archived-machines #deleted-channel

another thing is adding anything that is not plastic into an extruder is not a good idea as it will casue a lot of wear and possible damage

6:08 PM

simpler to just make interlocking bricks, as a that way you wont need much, just a mixer and a little binder, you can produce the machines yourself too-the drawings are easily available for free online

6:09 PM

cement is the best solution for cost as a binder

sponsoons

do you mean actual Lego bricks shaped construction material or just the interlocking bricks?

If you want to make interlocking briks that work with lego be careful you don't copy lego to much

6:13 PM

Seeing as patents are a thing

Taire

If you want to make interlocking briks that work with lego be careful you don't copy lego to much

since he mentioned i flyash,i guessed he meant 'lego' bricks which are a common name for interlocking bricks used in construction

True

Taire

If you want to make interlocking briks that work with lego be careful you don't copy lego to much

and yes i get it,the good thing is the lego brick[the classic one] doesnt have much protection

6:14 PM

lego might still nag you but it wont be much if at all

6:15 PM

however the iconic minifig is protected iirc

I mean I have printed some special briks

Taire

I mean I have printed some special briks

same, i have a ton ive printed for sets lego no longer makes or sells

True

but something to remember is almost nobody has managed to make Lego brick copies that fit as well as the originals

But if you start selling them

sponsoons

but something to remember is almost nobody has managed to make Lego brick copies that fit as well as the originals

True

Taire

But if you start selling them

yea that might be iffy

6:17 PM

but something ive noticed is if you arent in a wester country and/or easily findable esp online then you aren't bothered much by international companies

6:19 PM

like ive found a ton of local lego copies but none of them really compare to lego and mainly all of them are local so Lego finding out;let alone caring about it is not easily happening

6:19 PM

hell ive found the free injection mold files for lego bricks and minifigs and even shared them on this server before

6:21 PM

one day when i have a better milling machine i want to try molding my own minifigs out of recycled plastic

Neat

6:37 PM

I'm fortunate enough to have a giant 5 axis machine at my job

Taire

I'm fortunate enough to have a giant 5 axis machine at my job

got some offcuts you could use?

Depends on how big they need to be

wait,ill find the file

6:52 PM

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31679

4 up brickman gets MOULDED by celticfable

We took the Mini-Fig and after slight adjustment made a development injection mould tool for the parts...mark II mould is underway with coring out to reduce sinkage!?

6:52 PM

this is for the minifig

6:52 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/mold-for-lego-trinota-1 and this is for the brick (edited)

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!

6:54 PM

https://grabcad.com/library/lego-mold-design-and-analysis-1 this one has a mold file too

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!

Hi everyone, I have a question related to the sheet press. Anyone knows if it makes a difference the material I am using for sheets. What is the main difference between stainless steel or aluminum sheets in terms of plastic sticking to it? I have heard that plastic wouldn't stick to stainless steel but it might to aluminum sheets without oil or mold release, but I want to be sure before trying because steel is a lot more expensive:)

From what I know aluminum gets tacky when warm

11:26 AM

And it loses that sticky Ness when it gets cold again

11:27 AM

Stainless doesn't get sticky at all

Hi folks, we are looking to buy a heat press to boost our flat sheet production - we've done pretty well with a couple of sandwich presses, but I think a heat press would get us more uniform sheet thickness. I'd love to know what brand any of you have been using, and whether you recommend it. Lifespan/ quality are big deal, I'm spending the $ of a charity and I want to make sure what I buy is the best investment. Also curious how many of you use a heat press with only the top plate heated and if any of you found that unsatisfactory and modified the bottom plate. Merry Christmas and thanks

Hi i have a schredder and i use 1.5kw motor with gear box but it is not enough power.how i calculate correct motor.

Hey everyone, I've been trying to optimize my injection molding machine as I've been having quite some problems with it. The main issue is the nozzle and injection of plastic. If anyone here can help me out, i'd really appreciate it. My mission is to start a recycling plant in Nairobi

Chickenandcocaine

Hey everyone, I've been trying to optimize my injection molding machine as I've been having quite some problems with it. The main issue is the nozzle and injection of plastic. If anyone here can help me out, i'd really appreciate it. My mission is to start a recycling plant in Nairobi

Hey, Can you share a little bit more about the problems and I can see if I can help

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

Hey, Can you share a little bit more about the problems and I can see if I can help

They're discussing it in #just-chatting

Hey @Rory - Sustainable Design Studio , yes we're discussing it there. Thanks @𝕃𝕆𝕂𝕀 (Colorado, USA)

1

Hi, I'm building the heat compression machine , this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogI8kt0w43Y looking for the electric components, can someone know what to order?

One Army

Precious Plastic - Build the compression (part 3.4)

Hi, everyone, I'm looking for 30min. Documents / information about the moisture values for recycled material, I need key figures such as: specific pressure and strength values and data sheets with information on the manufacturing processes (in my case machining), for example in which temperature corridor the materials are to be manufactured without being chemically processed damage. I would be happy if you can help me with the parameters. mainly for the materials:

Polyethylene terephthalate
Polyvinyl chloride
polypropylene

but also for individual recycled materials (MIX (7)) Furthermore, the question arises whether there are plates to buy that have a thickness of 50mm and more? Thanks in advance! Best regards #archived-plastic (edited)

Sorry for repeat question, but wondering about the beam moulds - we had one made, but I can't see how the air inside is meant to escape as it is sealed at the far end. I ran my first little experiment the other day but it seemed to stop part way along and not take in any more plastic. Should the end that doesn't attach to the machine be open to the air? I saw something about putting a piece of wood inside the tube to be pushed along as the beam fills.. what are people out there doing?

@Chineseand The end of the beam should be open. However the wood method is to add "Resistance" to the flow. This ensures a sensible amount of pressure is built up. As a result it creates smoother and stronger beams. Closing the end off just creates high pressure with no ability to release and is not advised. Its also harder to demould if you don't have an opening at the end. Hope that helps.

Thanks @Rory - Sustainable Design Studio !

Hi, I want to make jewelry from recycled plastic, can I also use the extruder for my molds or is it better to work with an injection machine?

@Rory - Sustainable Design Studio do U also have experience with creating beams?

@Tribune yes I do on extruder basic and the extruder pro. Also on making beam moulds. So if you have a question let me know :)

Awesome

10:35 PM

I wonder how I can calculate how many kg plastic I need for a beam

1cm3 is about 1g

1

10:41 PM

Volume of the beam x 0.9 is roughly right depending on the plastic type

10:42 PM

If the barrel of the extruder is empty you need to add that into the volume

Awesome, thanks a lot, that helps me

Hey guys, is a 1" to 1/2" reducer and a plug with a hole good enough for a nozzle for the precious plastic injection machine, or do people prefer custom designed nozzles?

Tribune

I wonder how I can calculate how many kg plastic I need for a beam

The formula is X * Y * Z * D X = Width Y= Length Z = Thickness D = Material Density per CC So for example if you have a 6cm * 4cm * 100 cm beam 6 * 4 * 100 = 2,400 So that's 2,400cc you need to fill. The plastic density is about .96g/cc but for the sake of sanity, we'll round it to 1g. 2,400cc * 1g = 2,400g If you wanted to do a different density like 0.96g/cc it would be like this: 2,400 * 0.96g= 2,304g Plastic beams can have some issues with trapped air so the overall density of your beam might vary. (edited)

1

Wow, what a awesome explaination. Thank U very much for Ur effort

Tribune

Wow, what a awesome explaination. Thank U very much for Ur effort

extra mile, just for you... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wLMT9GUUCHcNPhearK5iRYgKUWe5X1RX-tI0Tv7HB6Q/edit?usp=sharing

Plastic Beam Calculator

Sheet1 Beam Volume and Weight estimator Width,x,Thickness,x,Length,x,Density,=,Total Weight 4,4,100,0.96,1536,grams Density: (grams/cc) HDPE,0.96 LDPE,0.91 PP,0.9 PS,1.06 PET,1.4 Note: Extruding plastic beams has many variables such as contaminaiton and trapped air bubbles/voids. Don't expe...

1

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug megaawesome, thats a key information for everyone who want to work on beams or similar stuff. Thanks a lot. I really appreciate ut

Hey all, hope everybody is doing well. I've made an injection molder based off a 5 ton log splitter, but I'm having trouble with my heaters and PID controllers. I have four 380W heaters, 2 on each PID. Right now during my testing I'm getting massive temperature overshoot (set point is at 266F and it initially reaches 400F, and settles into an oscillation between 266F and 320F). I've turned the I and D values off and the P way down. Any suggestions for how to get more stable temperatures? I'm afraid I'm going to burn the plastic.

Hi everyone, i am going to build an electrical control panel for the shredder machine. Any suggestion where i can find an electrical diagram ?. I am planning to use VFD and 3 phase motor, also interested to use motor protection with auto-reverse on it. Maybe someone can share. Thank you.

most vfd's have motor protection

7:19 PM

auto reverse might be a but trikyer to do

7:19 PM

the vfd i use suports it

7:19 PM

but thats like a 1200 dollar vfd

Hi, I want use a service to produce some molds for injection molding of rings and bangles. Do have a gold quality it is very pricey Do you have any recommendations how to Prototyp in a good quality and shape without speeding lots of money on Aluminum or steel molds? Any alternatives ? What about using a aluminum blank mold where I can place and customized SLA mold inside from a 3d printing service ? Would it get cheaper to try out lots of different shapes ?(like in this video: https://youtu.be/iZeu8LAnTvw) Thank you very much for your input

Formlabs

How to Use 3D Printed Injection Molds for Low-Volume Production

@Deleted User

2:58 PM

@PPCapiSpain Hi, as far as I see in your picture the nozzle is not welded to the mold, is it correct or it's just for the explanation?

@Vermelles Right. the accessory is threaded to the mold, not welded. in this way it can be exchanged for other measures very easily. On the other hand, many users end up eliminating the nozzle because it is difficult to remove the plastic ...

PPCapiSpain

@Vermelles Right. the accessory is threaded to the mold, not welded. in this way it can be exchanged for other measures very easily. On the other hand, many users end up eliminating the nozzle because it is difficult to remove the plastic ...

So, you mean that the connector is a male-male connector, but with a hole on it. It's homemade or it's a standard connector?

Yeahh... is a nipplex "1/4 " - 1/2"". Is a standard connector. Is cheap... and you can buy it in some plumbering shop

PPCapiSpain

Yeahh... is a nipplex "1/4 " - 1/2"". Is a standard connector. Is cheap... and you can buy it in some plumbering shop

Ok, now I see how it's. Just one more answer, for leaking between the injections, do you use a ball valve or you don't use anything? Thanks a lot for all your answers !! Gracias

Leaking??

Hello everyone does anybody have extruder pro drawings?

Idina

Hello everyone does anybody have extruder pro drawings?

https://library.precious-plastic.org/machines/extrusion-pro.html#build

Precious Plastic Extrusion v4

Precious Plastic - Machine : Extrusion :: Precious Plastic Extrusion v4

@𝕃𝕆𝕂𝕀 (Colorado, USA) thank you very much

1

Anyone got any tips for buying a gearbox? Should i go with a wormgear? I got a 1.5kw ac motor right now that locks out waay to often (edited)

Hello, I'm new here. I also built an injection machine. the machine has been modified a bit. My goal was to increase the number of units. The principle is the same but it is operated pneumatically. The shutter is from an old veneer press. the key rings in the video can be sprayed non-stop. So no heating-up times.

3

@fplast Beautiful rig! Did you make the mold as well? If so, got any hints you're willing to share? Working on my first, wondering if it's worth a shot in the mill or if it's best to leave it to the EDM guys.

Coxworth

@fplast Beautiful rig! Did you make the mold as well? If so, got any hints you're willing to share? Working on my first, wondering if it's worth a shot in the mill or if it's best to leave it to the EDM guys.

yes i made everything myself including the molds. After the metalworker didn't want to build my molds, I taught myself how to mill cnc myself and bought myself a cnc milling machine. is easier than you think. I make my molds from 7075 aluminum sheets. the sprue should be as short as possible. and you don't need the cone in the top of the mold. the contact pressure from the cylinder that presses on the mold is completely sufficient. So don't make a cone in the shape, just leave it flat. Have you Problems With your mold ?

@fplast CAD is in wrap-up phase so no problems.. yet :) My biggest worry is surface finish; the final licks require a 1mm ball mill so there will be visible tool paths. Have you seen surface imperfections reflected in the finished products? I imagine they must be too shallow to be a factor but I'm new to plastic molding so I have no idea what to expect!

Coxworth

@fplast CAD is in wrap-up phase so no problems.. yet :) My biggest worry is surface finish; the final licks require a 1mm ball mill so there will be visible tool paths. Have you seen surface imperfections reflected in the finished products? I imagine they must be too shallow to be a factor but I'm new to plastic molding so I have no idea what to expect!

personaly i like it

2:29 PM

it gives a nice vibe to a part

2:30 PM

but it you are willing to spend a chouple sand paper that should remove most of them

2:31 PM

i whould inject a couple parts after machineing

2:31 PM

and see if the tool marks are a problem

Yeah, figured it can't be too much trouble brushing out the worst of it but that got me thinking..

a finer step over while millling chould also reduce the tool marks

A light stripe pattern would add a ton of character to the part in mind.. yeah, definitely doing a test run first!

2:37 PM

Big thanks to you both!

yea test runs are super helpfull

2:38 PM

cus it whould suck to put in a bunch of time finishing

2:38 PM

while it mught be completely pointless

Yeah I can imagine.

i sadly dont need to imagine

2:41 PM

That reminded me of another thing. Is it best to avoid splitting the design between the mold sections? (I hope that makes sense..)

2:52 PM

It would make things so much easier but I assume there will always be some misalignment, even with guide pins and mirror finish surfaces?

you can see every milling track in the finished product. everything you see is also visible in the plastic afterwards. i polish my molds with a dremel that is done quickly. and the products are perfect. it is best to have the sprue in the center of the mold. i have no problems with misalignment. if the milling machine is reasonably accurate, there are no problems. i have already milled the mold and drilled the sprue with a drill. went without any problems.

2

4:16 PM

4:17 PM

This ist With a 2mm Ball. Without polish.

4:20 PM

This one is polished. With Alu It is No Problem to polish.

fplast

you can see every milling track in the finished product. everything you see is also visible in the plastic afterwards. i polish my molds with a dremel that is done quickly. and the products are perfect. it is best to have the sprue in the center of the mold. i have no problems with misalignment. if the milling machine is reasonably accurate, there are no problems. i have already milled the mold and drilled the sprue with a drill. went without any problems.

true

5:58 PM

however

5:59 PM

not everything needs to be perfectly smooth

5:59 PM

some parts can have the tool marks on them

HelloI everyone I wish to start building machine any one can guide me

hussien

HelloI everyone I wish to start building machine any one can guide me

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build

Taire

some parts can have the tool marks on them

some creative pathing might make some really neat patterns.

indeed

fplast

yes i made everything myself including the molds. After the metalworker didn't want to build my molds, I taught myself how to mill cnc myself and bought myself a cnc milling machine. is easier than you think. I make my molds from 7075 aluminum sheets. the sprue should be as short as possible. and you don't need the cone in the top of the mold. the contact pressure from the cylinder that presses on the mold is completely sufficient. So don't make a cone in the shape, just leave it flat. Have you Problems With your mold ?

Thinking about getting a CNC too to do this. Wanna share which machine you got?

hey folks, has somebody try this band heaters? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000946986.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ae97841mOgksv&algo_pvid=cb3f6e1d-c46b-4a82-b953-b06a48990d9a&algo_exp_id=cb3f6e1d-c46b-4a82-b953-b06a48990d9a-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266979677855%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B3.74%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BGBP%3Bsearch-mainSearch I'm building my machine but the diameter of my barrel is only 25mm. On TC Direct the smallest diameter is 30mm so I can't get it from there. I have been reading that aluminium band heater only go up to appro 350ºC, but that should be enough for this project. Thanks (edited)

4.35US $ 42% OFF|25mm ID Band Heaters 25/30/35mm Height Stainless S...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

jalfer

hey folks, has somebody try this band heaters? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000946986.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ae97841mOgksv&algo_pvid=cb3f6e1d-c46b-4a82-b953-b06a48990d9a&algo_exp_id=cb3f6e1d-c46b-4a82-b953-b06a48990d9a-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266979677855%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B3.74%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BGBP%3Bsearch-mainSearch I'm building my machine but the diameter of my barrel is only 25mm. On TC Direct the smallest diameter is 30mm so I can't get it from there. I have been reading that aluminium band heater only go up to appro 350ºC, but that should be enough for this project. Thanks (edited)

I reply to myself. Found this in the forum. I copy it here in case someone ask the same question https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/band-heaters-brass-ceramic-or-stainless/

Max Webber

Band Heaters: Brass, Ceramic or Stainless? - Dave Hakkens

Greetings! On Aliexpress I see 3 types of band heaters, is one better than the other? Brass, Ceramic or Stainless steel? What is the difference. I see some with braided metal insulation on the - Dave Hakkens

Till

Thinking about getting a CNC too to do this. Wanna share which machine you got?

i bought my cnc here and i'm very happy with it. It is precise to 0.01mm. It's not that cheap, but as an absolute beginner, I was able to mill the first part with the machine and fusion360 two hours after assembly. I was able to see how it works on various videos. https://www.cnc-step.de/

CNC Fräsmaschinen Hersteller | 1a CNC Fräsen - Ganz sicher

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fplast

i bought my cnc here and i'm very happy with it. It is precise to 0.01mm. It's not that cheap, but as an absolute beginner, I was able to mill the first part with the machine and fusion360 two hours after assembly. I was able to see how it works on various videos. https://www.cnc-step.de/

Thanks! Looks like the price for the High-Z T has really come down. Trying to decide between this, Sorotec and Hammer. Have you tried cutting mild steel with it?

Till

Thanks! Looks like the price for the High-Z T has really come down. Trying to decide between this, Sorotec and Hammer. Have you tried cutting mild steel with it?

yes, I've already milled steel but only s235 and only 3mm thick sheet metal.it works good. But If you want to mill molds out of steel, I think the machine will be too small. but for alu 7075 it is perfect. and the support at the company is unique. I get the Postprozessor for Fusion 360 to the maschiene Software to. And IT works great.

fplast

yes, I've already milled steel but only s235 and only 3mm thick sheet metal.it works good. But If you want to mill molds out of steel, I think the machine will be too small. but for alu 7075 it is perfect. and the support at the company is unique. I get the Postprozessor for Fusion 360 to the maschiene Software to. And IT works great.

So I am guessing you bought the High-Z/T?

Yes High-Z 720x420

12:22 PM

1

Wow, that will add some amazing abilities to the shop! Great find!

@fplast Thank you for being so detailed and generous! If I can help you in return I gladly will but it looks like all I learned from 10 years of industrial production you've learned in 10 weeks :) I wish you all the best going forward!

fplast

Yes High-Z 720x420

Thanks a lot for the info! It really helps me to make up my mind.

My shredder progress, looking for electrical wiring with VFD, anyone can share ?.

HPS

My shredder progress, looking for electrical wiring with VFD, anyone can share ?.

What does the wiring from the motor look like, and is there a plate on it with specs? It should have low and high voltage diagrams. Looks like you're almost there!

HPS

My shredder progress, looking for electrical wiring with VFD, anyone can share ?.

What VFD are you using? Also like @CitSciWorkshop said we would need to see that face plate for the motor. There is no standard drawings for VFD to motor as there are numerous combinations, not to mention the many different ways it can be controlled! I could help you with a rough sketch if needed if you provide that information. (I currently have my shredder being ran by a VFD and is working.)

1

jalfer

hey folks, has somebody try this band heaters? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33000946986.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4ae97841mOgksv&algo_pvid=cb3f6e1d-c46b-4a82-b953-b06a48990d9a&algo_exp_id=cb3f6e1d-c46b-4a82-b953-b06a48990d9a-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2266979677855%22%7D&pdp_pi=-1%3B3.74%3B-1%3B-1%40salePrice%3BGBP%3Bsearch-mainSearch I'm building my machine but the diameter of my barrel is only 25mm. On TC Direct the smallest diameter is 30mm so I can't get it from there. I have been reading that aluminium band heater only go up to appro 350ºC, but that should be enough for this project. Thanks (edited)

If you are interested, I bought my heaters from a small factory near here (central italy). It is the second activity of my employer, so I'm sure that they have good quality stuff, they sell parts for professionals. Here it is the catalogue, heaters are at page 116, you can find the 25mm diameter x 30mm lenght for 90W@230V. http://www.dmp-srl.com/images/dmpnormalizzati.pdf

Hello everyone. I had a question regarding the sheet press. On the PP website, they compare the PP sheetpress to other sheetpresses available on the market (see screenshot below). I was wondering if anyone knew which sheetpresses they were referring to? I require a machine with CSA certifications, so I am hoping some of the presses alluded to may have it. Thank you in advance

4:03 AM

Choonis

Hello everyone. I had a question regarding the sheet press. On the PP website, they compare the PP sheetpress to other sheetpresses available on the market (see screenshot below). I was wondering if anyone knew which sheetpresses they were referring to? I require a machine with CSA certifications, so I am hoping some of the presses alluded to may have it. Thank you in advance

Gonna go out on a limb but I don't think there's a open-source project that has csa certifications

4:06 AM

I have a feeling your gonna have to start looking at alternatives

4:06 AM

I'll ask around some

4:06 AM

You will hear from me tomorrow

Thank you very much!

4:08 AM

Anytime

4:08 AM

I'm happy to help

Hi everyone. I am looking into building the Shredder Pro. After downloading the starter kit from the Precious Plastics website, I tried opening the assembly file in SolidWorks and was greeted with an error message saying that 24 parts could not be found. While the assembly still opens, the missing components are suppressed which in turn messes up the mates for many other components. As a result, the assembly looks quite distorted. Does anyone know if this is a common issue and how it can be fixed? Ideally, it would be great if someone has the complete zip file for the SolidWorks model. Thank you in advance for your help. (edited)

5:55 AM

Choonis

Thank you very much!

I prefer to say 'conform' since there is no certification perse except for medical devices

2:05 PM

it's just about adding more protection shields, better electrics and a good load of safety stickers

Edit this to change the output of the custom command 1!

Wut

2:05 PM

Pretty much

2:05 PM

No

2:05 PM

They don't have any certification

2:06 PM

But it's relatively easy to get a certification

2:07 PM

It whould require more safety shields and the wiring needs to be made to code

Jacob

Hi everyone. I am looking into building the Shredder Pro. After downloading the starter kit from the Precious Plastics website, I tried opening the assembly file in SolidWorks and was greeted with an error message saying that 24 parts could not be found. While the assembly still opens, the missing components are suppressed which in turn messes up the mates for many other components. As a result, the assembly looks quite distorted. Does anyone know if this is a common issue and how it can be fixed? Ideally, it would be great if someone has the complete zip file for the SolidWorks model. Thank you in advance for your help. (edited)

Try to import the .stp file in solidworks.

Hello I am new here, I have question to the one that have experience with shredder pro. Did you try to shredde fex. car buffers made from plastic

Tomasz81

Hello I am new here, I have question to the one that have experience with shredder pro. Did you try to shredde fex. car buffers made from plastic

chould you show a picture

I have customer who want us to bild such machine and i want to know if anyone have tested shredder in version pro eithnsuch a material

i whould shred anything but bottles and other plastic in myne

5:01 PM

cus its not rly made to shred other things

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Try to import the .stp file in solidworks.

Thank you!

Hi everyone. I am wondering if the quantities of each laser-cut part for the shredder pro is listed somewhere. For the sheet press, I know that the quantity of each part is listed in its respective filename but I cannot seem to find this for the shredder pro. I figured that I can go through all of the CAD drawings to find the quantity of each part, but I decided that someone probably has all of the quantities listed somewhere (it is quite a hassle going through each drawing and keeping track of the quantity of each component). Please let me know if there is a list or something with this information. Thank you in advance for your help!

Jacob

Hi everyone. I am wondering if the quantities of each laser-cut part for the shredder pro is listed somewhere. For the sheet press, I know that the quantity of each part is listed in its respective filename but I cannot seem to find this for the shredder pro. I figured that I can go through all of the CAD drawings to find the quantity of each part, but I decided that someone probably has all of the quantities listed somewhere (it is quite a hassle going through each drawing and keeping track of the quantity of each component). Please let me know if there is a list or something with this information. Thank you in advance for your help!

Hi Jacoob, the quantities are still in the filename, just at the end, as in SHRPRO-V1 1120.15-A Spacer 2,5mm - 2,5mm_QTY-47.dxf (edited)

3:49 AM

I widened the name column in my file explorer window so that portion was visible.

CitSciWorkshop

Hi Jacoob, the quantities are still in the filename, just at the end, as in SHRPRO-V1 1120.15-A Spacer 2,5mm - 2,5mm_QTY-47.dxf (edited)

Hmm that is interesting, my files do not seem to have the quantities

3:52 AM

^This is an example of how my files are named. Are your files from the Precious Plastics shredder pro starterkit? (edited)

Jacob

Hmm that is interesting, my files do not seem to have the quantities

hmm, that is strange. I believe I downloaded mine from the v4 master.

Ah wonderful, I will try doing that right now. Thank you for your help!

Happy to help, If you need I can zip my files and send as well.

It worked perfectly, thanks!

4

CitSciWorkshop

Hello! For the last year we've been developing the Shredder Pro in US Imperial units for compatibility to domestic material. We're pretty happy with the results and are ready to start collecting our works into a form that we can publish for the PP community, and we are still working on that large task. If people are interested in reviewing our work and helping us get it publication ready, please fill out our form here: https://bit.ly/USShredderProBetaDev (edited)

Hey how is this going? I need a shredder pro cut in FL

GarrettCadou

Hey how is this going? I need a shredder pro cut in FL

Hi Garrett, doing well, thanks, just DM'd you.

Hi, does anyone has the basic shredder shaft measurements?

@CitSciWorkshop Hello! I am having another small issue with the CAD files for the shredder pro on SolidWorks. When I try to open the shredder pro assembly, it notifies me that several files cannot be located and consequently are automatically suppressed. I was able to locate roughly half of the missing components, but I am still missing the hinge, the 16x2 lcd display, the 3 phase general switch, the 5V 500mA power supply, the cable gland M25, and the DIN rail. I was wondering if you have heard of this issue, or if you have a pack-and-go zip file for the shredder pro that contains all of the parts. Thank you again for your help

Alex Mazvi

Hi, does anyone has the basic shredder shaft measurements?

These are the metric units

I have a question regarding the tolerances of Basic Shredder files. I spoke to one company that could laser cut the basic shredder elements but they want me to tell them what are the expected tolerances.

8:05 PM

Anyone could help me with that?

Jacob

These are the metric units

Tnx a lot!

1

Jacob

@CitSciWorkshop Hello! I am having another small issue with the CAD files for the shredder pro on SolidWorks. When I try to open the shredder pro assembly, it notifies me that several files cannot be located and consequently are automatically suppressed. I was able to locate roughly half of the missing components, but I am still missing the hinge, the 16x2 lcd display, the 3 phase general switch, the 5V 500mA power supply, the cable gland M25, and the DIN rail. I was wondering if you have heard of this issue, or if you have a pack-and-go zip file for the shredder pro that contains all of the parts. Thank you again for your help

Let me check

CitSciWorkshop

Let me check

I also read that you have created an altered version of the shredder pro in imperial units. Is this an open source design? If so, where can it be found? Thank you again for your help (edited)

Jacob

I also read that you have created an altered version of the shredder pro in imperial units. Is this an open source design? If so, where can it be found? Thank you again for your help (edited)

We're working with a university group to get our documentation up to publishable value and hope to get an initial release out this spring.

Hello quick question are there any technical drawings for the construction of the plastic extruder? If so, please send me a link there. Thanks in advance.

gamerwolf120

Hello quick question are there any technical drawings for the construction of the plastic extruder? If so, please send me a link there. Thanks in advance.

Hey, you can find all download files in the academy: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

hey thanks you gave me new hope

Hi. I can't find the dimensions for the hex bar of the shredder. What dia should it be?

wich tipe of steel shoud i use for the shredder shaft? 1040? 1045?

aaronfromthebottom

Hi. I can't find the dimensions for the hex bar of the shredder. What dia should it be?

Alex Mazvi

wich tipe of steel shoud i use for the shredder shaft? 1040? 1045?

I would think that either would suffice. The main choice of steel comes when building the blades, since you want them as hard as possible to maintain blade edge

i ordered the cuts in inox steel 304 (inox was the only choice because the thickness on the guide was in mm and common steel is in imperial thicknesses )

at least in Buenos Aires it's like that, theres not many options when making inventions, one gets pretty much cornered with the choices.

aaronfromthebottom

Hi. I can't find the dimensions for the hex bar of the shredder. What dia should it be?

If 27 mm isn't available you chould always go for 30 and make the holes bigger

1:56 AM

Or a even bigger size hex

1:57 AM

Bigger the better tbh

1

1:57 AM

It needs to endure alot of abuse

oh i was talking about the metal sheet cuts

4:08 AM

i mixed everything up, i ordered the shaft in 1040 steel

4:09 AM

i still don't know wich free cad software is better to use to modify this type of files.

Alex Mazvi

i still don't know wich free cad software is better to use to modify this type of files.

Have you looked into Fusion360?

Yeah I just downloaded it with the personal use license, also downloaded freecad to see which one I get more comfortable with. I learned some blender that is what I'm using right now for practicing modeling for and archviz but it's not really precise for invention prototyping so I'm trying alternatives

Fusion is imo not the best

5:35 PM

I use it for 3d and cam

5:36 PM

But for 2d drawing I prefer autocad

Question for you guys and gals... is there any cheaper alternatives to the super expensive motor? i just found my shredder in a kit form still waiting for a motor in the corner of the garage and would like to start it back up, but the cost of the motor has always been very prohibitive - took a break for a bit, but i decided to give this a shot again

h hand crank is a option

6:28 PM

however id prefer a motor but thats always going to be the most ecpensive part

6:30 PM

maybe theres a company around your area that has a old motor laying around

I'm also wanting to build a cold sheet press, I have a general idea, but I keep seeing the chat search talking about a build... Is there is guides out there for cold presses?

Hi Guys,

9:58 PM

We are new to this and trying to source a fully built localish press machine to the uk,any leads or suggestion please ?

there are a lot of PP builders in the UK you should look in the PP map and contact them directly (edited)

Thebeardedbutler

We are new to this and trying to source a fully built localish press machine to the uk,any leads or suggestion please ?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/map

CrabbyApples

I'm also wanting to build a cold sheet press, I have a general idea, but I keep seeing the chat search talking about a build... Is there is guides out there for cold presses?

You can build one by constructing the heat press without any of the aluminum blocks and electronics. The hydraulics and metal work is identical between the two.

CrabbyApples

I'm also wanting to build a cold sheet press, I have a general idea, but I keep seeing the chat search talking about a build... Is there is guides out there for cold presses?

Also check out "brothers make" on YouTube. They used a simple design with a bottlejack for theirs. I believe they didn't even weld the frame together. I recreated this design into of steel to great success.

3

Redeeming Plastics

Click to see attachment 🖼️

We also build one with an electric press

Hello want to start a plastic brick making.can I have the full set machines and the cost?

Joekarb

Hello want to start a plastic brick making.can I have the full set machines and the cost?

You have a reply in #archived-plastic. Please don't spam the channels.

Hello every one, I am planning to build the pro sheetpress, I 'd really like to have some feedbacks, currently my mains concerns are: How long does it take to make a sheet, and what quantity of matérial needs to be used per sheet ? Also, what is the "operator time" for one sheet ?

12:10 PM

could find any informations about that ?

the time and material depends on the sheet thickness

do you have any numbers ? to get an idea ?

Hi people ! I'm building the extruder V.2 and I have hard time finding the specs for the motor. Those a 1/2 HP DC works ? Do I need a gear box ? Thank you !

fplast

Hello, I'm new here. I also built an injection machine. the machine has been modified a bit. My goal was to increase the number of units. The principle is the same but it is operated pneumatically. The shutter is from an old veneer press. the key rings in the video can be sprayed non-stop. So no heating-up times.

cool machine design. I did something similar for my master thesis. I would be perfect for our Precious Plastic community, to make documented files, blueprints, or even video tutorial how your machine works, and how to make it on your own. cheers

Ricky Bricol

Hi people ! I'm building the extruder V.2 and I have hard time finding the specs for the motor. Those a 1/2 HP DC works ? Do I need a gear box ? Thank you !

for V2 extruder, its necessary to have min 1,5 kW motor, with a gearbox. for even better control, frequency driver is recommended, so you can control RPM of your machine

Redeeming Plastics

Click to see attachment 🖼️

@Redeeming Plastics i love their channel, i try to keep up to date with them. I ended up buying this bench press trying to help lessen the need for making a huge box myself, but may have hindered myself 'cuz now i have to work inside of that box instead of one i created myself.... still trying to figure out what i'm goign to design to have this useful. thinking about some 3/8" steel plate for the top that i can mount to that rod somehow, but i'm pretty limited when it comes to designing stuff for this and i do not want it to be heavy of course!

12:00 AM

i did just see this which might help me a bit https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61J6hEZpwBL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Martin PP Slovakia

cool machine design. I did something similar for my master thesis. I would be perfect for our Precious Plastic community, to make documented files, blueprints, or even video tutorial how your machine works, and how to make it on your own. cheers

If this is about the sheet press I made, I am happy to put some info together. We are currently trying to find a bigger workspace in our city to work from, once we have moved I will happily make videos/tutorials etc when making machines. (edited)

1

Has anyone built the biopress?

Hello I am building shredders I need support with shredding car buffers does any one did it by shredder pro??

Hello! I can't download the files with the shredder drawings. Downloads do not work! Help to figure it out.

Hello. I have an extruder, and I want to use it to make filaments using pet, pp, etc. I think the diameter of the nozzle and the diameter of the extruded plastic are different. I want to make 1.75mm filament. I wonder what diameter the nozzle of the extruder should be machined to do this. Does anyone have experience with extruding filament? For reference, the nozzle will be manufactured using cnc.

Having difficulty modifying plastic shredder drawing using fusion 360. Need to modify the hex shaft size to meet what i have and the drawing only has solid bodies and no sketches. I use fusion 360 in all my creations for use on my plasma cutting table without issue. Any suggestions?? Also I'm having issues getting dimensions... (edited)

Yep

5:15 PM

Good luck with that

5:18 PM

I'm currently redrawing it and mankind it stronger

5:18 PM

If you want I chould send you. The files and the f3z file when I'm donw

5:18 PM

Will take me a couple days

5:19 PM

And should be done on like monday

can't you project the sketches from the bodies?

You can

5:41 PM

But it's still not ideal

Hi all, good afternoon! I am looking to purchase PET machines, shredder, oven and extruder

Hi, without any estimation I agreed with the lathe person to make the shaft of my shredder pro in bright MS steel (yeild strength : 415mpa -(cold drawn) 215 -(TGP)). I'm worried about it's hardness, have anyone made the shafts from MS steel, and can share me the experience. Or I have made a very bad decisions, please help me

antony

Hello! I can't download the files with the shredder drawings. Downloads do not work! Help to figure it out.

Me too i have a difficult

Hi people, I'm building the extrusion machine, but I don't know how many Watts is necessary for the heating elements. Could anyone tell me please?

3:57 PM

I'm working with 220 V

@Jaeman From what little I know about plastics I can tell you this. All plastics have a percentage of shrinkage and that is different for some plastics so calculations or trial and error are in order to get the proper sized extruder nozzle. Probbly you will have to have a different nozzle for each kind of plastic.

6:54 PM

My question is has anyone used induction heaters around the barrel of an extruder instead of the standard heaters? If I am not mistaken they should also heat the auger as well as the barrel but not shure if it would be done evenly.

6:58 PM

Shredder question for those who have made their own blades has anyone tried the abrasive resistant hardened steels for them and does laser cutting damage the metal?

7:05 PM

@NandoFer The watts you use is directly related to how fast you want things to heat up. If you want things to heat up fast use heaters rated for more watts. if you do not mind slower heating you can use less watts. The amps rating can be used similarly but look into it to make sure I am correct.

Ahweh

My question is has anyone used induction heaters around the barrel of an extruder instead of the standard heaters? If I am not mistaken they should also heat the auger as well as the barrel but not shure if it would be done evenly.

About hardened blades... A suggestion. Try to have them cutted from a S355JR (this is the european designation) steel. It has a good strenght and can be cut without any problem. And after the laser/plasma cutting, you can also have it carburised+quenched from a factory that does thermal treatments. I'm a metalworker, we make a lot of roller with carburised S355 instead of tempered C45, the surface hardness can reach over 55HRC. We use S355 because of the cost, we start from a tube instead than a solid bar, and the client is happier. I made my shredder blades in nitrided 39NiCrMo3, but that's another design.

I'm pretty sure hardened shredder blades Is a very bad idea

9:52 PM

Shredders create shockloads

9:53 PM

And hardened steel likes to chip when it sees a shockload

9:53 PM

So I'm pretty this is a very big safety hazard

Ok @Taire that I understand so would abrasive resistant steels work if they were only the factory hardness? (edited)

The only shredder 8 made was made is hardox

6:35 AM

So yes just simple abrasive resistant steel

this was a very big shredder tho

7:47 AM

it was used for pallets

7:47 AM

the wooden kind

Our company is considering of getting one of these machines

HEATmx2021Eng.pdf

1.26 MB

2:56 PM

Does anyone know someone using this machinery? Any alternatives to these in Europe/elsewhere?

Hey! does anyone have like a part list of everything needed to build the normal plastic shredder?

@Steam https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Hello, we need help- our injection machine is not working well- we need new brass heater bands- could somebody advice where we can buy it- online shop? The producer gave these specifications 30x35mm, 150W, 220V. We are based in Cabo Verde- here it is impossible to find.So, Preferably in Europe- thanks a lot!

Taire

I'm pretty sure hardened shredder blades Is a very bad idea

I think you should study something about metal thermical treatment

Surface hardening isn't risky at all. (edited)

Hello, does anyone heat their molds in a table oven before using it for the injection molding machine? I made the laser cut face shield mold but it only fills up the mold halfway and gets cooled

Chickenandcocaine

Hello, does anyone heat their molds in a table oven before using it for the injection molding machine? I made the laser cut face shield mold but it only fills up the mold halfway and gets cooled

i either use an oven or a heat gun

10:01 AM

a stove also works if you need something done quickyl

10:01 AM

you should be aiming for a mold temperature a bit higher than the industrial one

10:02 AM

since your mold will cool down and wont be continuously heated

sponsoons

a stove also works if you need something done quickyl

Thanks, thats really helpful. What temperature do you usually heat it up to?

@Chickenandcocaine Hello! You might need to heat it up for the first injections and then it should stay hot. Try not to over heat it since you can take the risk of burning a bit the plastic inside the mould. 180 °C should be enough

11:36 AM

or 200 °C for less time

Chickenandcocaine

Thanks, thats really helpful. What temperature do you usually heat it up to?

I normally use around 200 c

Chickenandcocaine

Thanks, thats really helpful. What temperature do you usually heat it up to?

as i said i aim for a mold temperature a bit higher than the industrial one

1:08 PM

so that means if for example the recommended mold temperature for HDPE(in the datasheet) is 95c then i will heat my mold to 100-150c

Hello All. I am very new to Discord and interested in developing my machine shop for plastics. Is there anyone in Michigan USA or the Great Lakes area? JDS

Carolina

@Chickenandcocaine Hello! You might need to heat it up for the first injections and then it should stay hot. Try not to over heat it since you can take the risk of burning a bit the plastic inside the mould. 180 °C should be enough

Alright that's great. I'm getting a table oven this week, let's see how it goes. Thanks a lot for your help

sponsoons

so that means if for example the recommended mold temperature for HDPE(in the datasheet) is 95c then i will heat my mold to 100-150c

I see. I'll try out a few variations and see what's best. Thanks for your help

hi, i need an engine for my sheredder, also used, live in. Venice, do you have any advice? Where to buy it?

Hi all. I am trying to find the laser cutting drawings for brick mold v4.2? Does anyone know where I can download? Only v4.0 is on the communityPP website. Many thanks.

Is there a list of everything that needs to be lasercut and the quantity of each part

3:21 PM

I'm talking bout the shredder pro

Taire

Is there a list of everything that needs to be lasercut and the quantity of each part

I think the best data is in the complete download kit. There is one download kit (Shredder Pro Kit?) where the files don´t shows the quantity. https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Yea I found this one as well

@Taire when you know the Machine drawings and how to build, you know how much pieces (edited)

Well yes

7:25 PM

But u didn't wanna count

7:25 PM

7:26 PM

Plus I knew there was a download with the qty in iy

7:26 PM

And yes I chould have very much counted it all

7:26 PM

But I'm lazy

This make the rounds yet? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtcJAaYVMAg

Action BOX

DIY Injection Molding | Make parts with our homemade plastic inject...

@Taire you just have to Count the Blades and Spacers on the shaft

9:16 PM

Shredder box parts you only neet one each

well yes

9:46 PM

but i didnt wanna count

9:46 PM

i lazy (edited)

похищен

@Taire when you know the Machine drawings and how to build, you know how much pieces (edited)

A lot.of....

What?@PPCapiSpain

A lot of pieces...

exactly

10:44 PM

and i chouldnt be asked to cout

There are lists in the download kit

11:16 PM

Just look at the Files

11:16 PM

Like this

11:16 PM

похищен

Just look at the Files

yea i found that

Hey guys, need somebody skilled about brick moulds. Concretely about welding brick moulds correctly. Please write me in DM. appreciate PreciousPlastic

10:23 PM

Hi, where can I find the dimensions to build the shredder?

@Shidoo0 official Download kit have all what you need (edited)

Shidoo0

Hi, where can I find the dimensions to build the shredder?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download here

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

I bought an extrusion machine from bmh solutions, someone knows wher can i find the electric diagram?

похищен

@Shidoo0 official Download kit have all what you need (edited)

Thanks

Martin PP Slovakia

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download here

Thank you

Hello! im trying to build the extrusion pro machine and I can't fffind te blueprints, can someone help me?

Good day, any1 know where I could find an aluminium shredder not too expensive ? It's to recycle gutters and downsprouts.

I'd say not here

1:10 AM

Your pretty much looking at something commercial

~poiik

Good day, any1 know where I could find an aluminium shredder not too expensive ? It's to recycle gutters and downsprouts.

you want to shred aluminum? or do you want a shredder made out of aluminum

4:53 AM

if you want to shred aluminium youd be looking for a much bigger setupt,probably $5000+ in cost

4:54 AM

but why on earth do you want to shred alu?

4:54 AM

if its for melting/storage then you can just bale it like everybody else

sponsoons

if you want to shred aluminium youd be looking for a much bigger setupt,probably $5000+ in cost

We want to shred it. I have a small business which install gutters and downsprouts. When we take down the old gutters it tends to take up space. Hence we want to shred it to take up less space.

12:53 PM

~poiik

We want to shred it. I have a small business which install gutters and downsprouts. When we take down the old gutters it tends to take up space. Hence we want to shred it to take up less space.

yall sell it for scrap right

12:56 PM

if its in small quantities then a guy with a board or a guy with a board+hammer is simplest

12:56 PM

shredding aluminum imo is not worth it

sponsoons

yall sell it for scrap right

Yes after we sell it off

sponsoons

if its in small quantities then a guy with a board or a guy with a board+hammer is simplest

Labour is expensive over here

~poiik

Labour is expensive over here

it takes a small amount of time,what id do for when i had to crush tins(the thin oil and paint kind) was id get a mallet,get the tins in a pile hit them with a hammer a couple times,and then lay a board over them and drive over that board

12:59 PM

the board or metal sheet is needed so you dont puncture any tires

1:00 PM

im not sure if jsut driving over the gutters covered with a board will work but it should hurt to try a small amount

Je partage « Quotation of KSB-300 Double Shaft Shredder to Nicole Lin 2022.01.20 » avec vous

Quotation_of_KSB-300_Double_Shaft_Shredder_to_Nicole_Lin_2022.01.20.pdf

1007.05 KB

at another place wed get the sheet metal that came in jumbo bags and wed mash it a couple time with a loader bucket or an excavator

A quote I got but I thought ill get away around $1k but apparently not

sponsoons

at another place wed get the sheet metal that came in jumbo bags and wed mash it a couple time with a loader bucket or an excavator

this worked for us becuase we had those machines at hand it it only took a couple minutes per 100-300kilo bag,so nobody mind us doing that

1:04 PM

1k is very low for something that could shred metal

1:05 PM

simpler to pay 10-20$ in labor to somebody to smash it with a hammer

Yeah.. we'll I ll have to think about this one... shredding the alu would be the easiest solution for us.

sometimes our scrap guy used to compact it for us so that would be helpful

1:06 PM

the closest solution i could give you that would remotely work is make yourself a wooden/metal baler and then just compacting the alu,but i doubt youd get very tight bales

sponsoons

simpler to pay 10-20$ in labor to somebody to smash it with a hammer

Over here they come with à big bin.. we load it up and he leave.. its just to stock the gutters .. that's all..

~poiik

Yeah.. we'll I ll have to think about this one... shredding the alu would be the easiest solution for us.

shredding isnt done too often unless its needed for a later processing stage because it consumes too much energy and and the machines are costly

~poiik

Over here they come with à big bin.. we load it up and he leave.. its just to stock the gutters .. that's all..

if youre trying to fit more into every bin then again you could try just driving over it

Ok I'll see what I can do o er here. Thanks for the help appreciate it.

quale materiale devo utilizzare per creare uno stampo per la compressione della plastica in un forno?

5:26 PM

what material should i use to make a mold for compressing plastic in an oven?

mattiabaky

quale materiale devo utilizzare per creare uno stampo per la compressione della plastica in un forno?

Normalmente l'alluminio è il miglior materiale ma si puo usare acciao. Dipende dalle macchine cha ha a disposizione (saldatura, CNC o taglio laser)

Hi there, I'm a new guy there

I'm looking for members who ever try to build a rotomolding machine for used plastic? Rotomolding need also very thin shreded plastic parts ( like sand), also idea about how to obtain somethin thiner than with a classic shredder ? Thanks for any idea, link..

axone

Hi there, I'm a new guy there

I'm looking for members who ever try to build a rotomolding machine for used plastic? Rotomolding need also very thin shreded plastic parts ( like sand), also idea about how to obtain somethin thiner than with a classic shredder ? Thanks for any idea, link..

i do not know anybody in precious plastic or diy who has done so

1:39 PM

the commercial way is to first use a shredder to make flakes and then a pulverizer to make the powder

1:40 PM

if youd like to try at home,one way that could work is a food mixer/grinder,everybody has one and they are fairly quick for small quantities

1:42 PM

but one thing to remember is that you have to use different containers for grinding food and plastic

I did some trials with a grinder, it's not thin enough, but helps.. I found some professionel machine (like cafe grinder wich use 2 friction disk , but afraid that plastic stick quickly on the friction disk). As it's professional equipement , need to pay around 500€ just to see if it works..

a few minutes in a mixer/grinder will get you a fairly fine powder,though you may have to sieve the powder to get a uniform powder size

axone

I did some trials with a grinder, it's not thin enough, but helps.. I found some professionel machine (like cafe grinder wich use 2 friction disk , but afraid that plastic stick quickly on the friction disk). As it's professional equipement , need to pay around 500€ just to see if it works..

which grinder did you use?

1:44 PM

this type?

a domestic one

1:44 PM

professional one seems to be better

something i used to do while grinding plastic is to freeze the plastic in a house freezer so that it wouldnt melt or bond together, for me atleast it would help in getting a better powder

1:46 PM

but youd be best off just buying recycled plastic powder from a supplier

of course

1:47 PM

freezing could be an option

axone

Hi there, I'm a new guy there

I'm looking for members who ever try to build a rotomolding machine for used plastic? Rotomolding need also very thin shreded plastic parts ( like sand), also idea about how to obtain somethin thiner than with a classic shredder ? Thanks for any idea, link..

also what plastic are you trying to use?

I would like to use plastic waste from the sea ( so that means different kind of thermoplastic together). My idea is to rotomold them ( perhaps with some bio plastic powder to stick all together)..

axone

I would like to use plastic waste from the sea ( so that means different kind of thermoplastic together). My idea is to rotomold them ( perhaps with some bio plastic powder to stick all together)..

different plastic esp in rotomolding wont work well

Martin PP Slovakia

Hey guys, need somebody skilled about brick moulds. Concretely about welding brick moulds correctly. Please write me in DM. appreciate PreciousPlastic

which version mold are you welding?

6

2:28 PM

Please promote me am from kenya i can make most of the plastic recycling machine

2

2:28 PM

Matnderi@gmail.com

@sioux612 https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/603882168934203412/937023007761776771 This looks nice!

7:07 PM

Did you make CAD Files and all that, or was this more of a "build as you go" type of project?

Well the kit itself is bought from noztek, I just modified some stuff as issues came up

7:08 PM

And the issues I had mainly were quite specific to PET filament

ah ok

7:20 PM

I just am trying to make a list of all the filament extruders, and it seems like everyday i find a new one!

7:21 PM

Yeah PET is really moisture sensitive, so it is a bit odd for people to flock to that one, albeit i guess it makes sense given the sheer number of PET bottles (although these already are well recycled into polyester fiber commercially, at least in my opinion)

Eric Lotze

Yeah PET is really moisture sensitive, so it is a bit odd for people to flock to that one, albeit i guess it makes sense given the sheer number of PET bottles (although these already are well recycled into polyester fiber commercially, at least in my opinion)

The IV/hygroscopy of the material actually isnt all that much of an issue, as long as it's stable over the entire extension length. I just store my material in a ~40kg bigbag in my office and it's all at the same moisture level

7:41 PM

IMO the only reason people flock to pet filament is because most never actually melt it. The bottle to stripe to filament stuff just folds it over

7:42 PM

With actual extrusion you need hot water as a cooling medium because otherwise the filament will become oval and start snaking

7:45 PM

If one lives in a place where plastic gets recycled (not burned) then using pet and hdpe for 3d printing is not a super productive way of recycling it. I also only use our off spec material. So old samples that we don't need to keep archived anymore, output from the metal separator (yet to ever find a piece of metal) and the material from when we start or stop the machine

sioux612

With actual extrusion you need hot water as a cooling medium because otherwise the filament will become oval and start snaking

speaking of this, have you measured the tolerances of the filament that machine has been making at all?

Eric Lotze

speaking of this, have you measured the tolerances of the filament that machine has been making at all?

Constantly, the noztek system has a closed loop tolerance puller When things go well I can hit +-0.05, +-0.1 is realistic over an entire spool and anything beyond 0.15 means that I stop immediately

1

7:49 PM

That's at roughly 550cm/min

7:54 PM

Currently waiting for a palette 3 pro, hoping that I can use it to splice together several runs of filament

Anyone here have a suggestion on a DIY injection machine I can make? I’d love to do an automatic one, especially. The machines pdf and website don’t have any designs

@CatstopherReeves i saw some people build it from a wood Splitter. But i dont reccomend because you often dont have much control about the force and Speed etc

I was thinking of using servo motors?

Good and strong servo Motors are very expensive

12:50 AM

But sometimes you may have luck

Would a nema 24 or something not be strong enough? (I am completely new to all this and can’t seem to find any pertinent info online)

I would rexcomend to build and use first a manual one, to get some experience. You can sell it later anyways

(edited)

12:54 AM

To see some interesting work with it, Check out instagram Page from "Johannplasto"

12:54 AM

https://instagram.com/johannplasto?utm_medium=copy_link

does anyone know where on the website are the download files for making the equipment? is it only a part of the workshop download, or is there somewhere else?

There you should find all Downloads

1:34 AM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

I looked at that one, and that's what I meant, it's all workshop kits So there's no individual files? Got it, thanks

I dont think so, Download the injection or what eher you want to do, there should be Everything you need

Hey @Machine shop! This is just a friendly reminder for everyone to keep their profiles on the community platform (https://community.preciousplastic.com) up to date. We direct people to the map daily (11,000 per week), so profiles that are up to date tend to have more success finding partners/clients, customers or volunteers/workers. Be sure to check over your: Photos Workspace type Description Links Thanks for doing what you’re doing! Hugh - Community Manager (edited)

2

1

Does anyone have a guide or something I can look at that explains how to design molds?

Could this be useful for a one axe shredder

Nathaniel (texas, USA)

Could this be useful for a one axe shredder

RPM 3450 quite high an RPM to find a good gear reducer for, and 5HP is more attuned to the Pro size., might be overkill on the Basic single axle size.

What about the double axle

It fits but the RPM is still quite high, so you need to find a gear reducer with a ratio ~120:1 in order to fit the actual RPM rating specified for the double axle machine. Those parts might also be rated for a maximum input RPM, so observe that spec in your searches.

Am I supposed to ask machine questions in here or in the general chat. I just noticed this chat after posting in general.

here

Greetings plastic recyclers, I've made an injection molding machine with a 1" to 0.5" pipe reducer as the nozzle. The moulds are plates with a 1/2" plug sticking out. I have a problem where when i remove the plug to put the mould in, the plastic drips out quite fast and i dont have enough time to screw the mold on. Anyone here had a similar problem?

Hello @Chickenandcocaine do you lock the lever up before removing the plug?

Hello Caro, No I haven't done that.

11:47 AM

I shall try it out

yes! that should help. Having the lever down puts pressure on the plastic downwards.

1

Hey friends! What do people use to lubricate their shredders?

Question about vfd's... My vfd manual says it's for Delta connected motors but my 3phase according to the wiring diagram is wye (star). Return and get a new vfd?

itsgeorge

Question about vfd's... My vfd manual says it's for Delta connected motors but my 3phase according to the wiring diagram is wye (star). Return and get a new vfd?

Are you running on 220V?

CitSciWorkshop

Are you running on 220V?

Yes!

Our VFD manuals show the same connection and our motors show the same grouping as yours, and I think it's worth a try. Fwiw I think the VFD will just throw an error if something isn't compatible. I can help in more detail if needed.

Thanks @CitSciWorkshop. I was wondering if I should rewire the line coming in. Let you guys know how it goes.

Ok hooked vfd up in wye (star) configuration as suggested on the back of my motor junction box plate. Works great. After doing some reading online apparently wiring motor in delta vs wye configuration allows for better torque once it gets up to speed but has high inrush current on start. The vfd allows for ramping up and so high inrush current can be mitigated.

2

10:52 PM

I don't want to damage my motor so just left it in wye. Would be interested to hear how others have wired and if they've gone against the recommendations of their motor wiring diagram.

Hey ladies and gents, I was looking through the info for the Extrusion Pro for information on extrusion screws, but the link is dead. Does anyone have the documentation for that?

notahore24

Hey ladies and gents, I was looking through the info for the Extrusion Pro for information on extrusion screws, but the link is dead. Does anyone have the documentation for that?

Yes, that is a link on alibaba, where you need to contact the manufacturer. You can order them on the bazar : https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/extruder-pro/extruder-pro-parts/

Machines :: Extruder Pro :: Extruder Pro Parts

5:47 PM

Or, if you want to look for a manufacturer, the drawings are the 1100.02 and the 1100.03

Thank you so much!

Hi all, having some trouble with my injection molder and hoping there was a proven solution before I started trying things: long story short, the heater closest to the tip of my machine burnt out, and I need to remove it. But the adapter is very stuck, so I can't pull the heater off to replace it. I'm unsure if it's rust, melted plastic, or the fact that it's round and my vice grips eventually slip.

stargazer

Hey friends! What do people use to lubricate their shredders?

You mean the gears? I think just normal grease should do it

SqueezeTheorem

Hi all, having some trouble with my injection molder and hoping there was a proven solution before I started trying things: long story short, the heater closest to the tip of my machine burnt out, and I need to remove it. But the adapter is very stuck, so I can't pull the heater off to replace it. I'm unsure if it's rust, melted plastic, or the fact that it's round and my vice grips eventually slip.

Hello, it is a combination of both melted plastic in the thread of the adapter and round tube that are hard to clamp. The main problem is the plastic in your thread, you need to melt it again to be able to move your adapter. As you bottom heater is dead unfortunately, use a air heater or a flame burner to bring this part above 150 - 200°C. Then if this is still sliding in your vice, you can try this : get 2 corner in aluminium, texture them with a grinder or a dremel, and put that in between your vice and the barrel tube, it should give some extra grip.

Does anyone have an injection machine with a diameter of 1 and a quarter inches? I'm building a new injection machine (Elena) and I wanted to put a larger barrel than the standard 1 inch one. Can it work?

dadda29993

Does anyone have an injection machine with a diameter of 1 and a quarter inches? I'm building a new injection machine (Elena) and I wanted to put a larger barrel than the standard 1 inch one. Can it work?

no,after 1 inch youll start to get a lot of uneven results

1:44 PM

like the plastic in the center of the barrel may not melt quickly if at all,that is why most injection machines keep the diameter at 1 inch or less

1:44 PM

if your were putting in already melted plastic this wouldnt be a problem but here it is

Hey everyone question about wiring extrusion pro. In the schematic they have everything being fed with a 5-wire multicore cable (3 phase power 3 hot legs, neutral, ground). They have each of the hot legs coming out of the relay and powering one set of PID controller and Solid State relay.

4:56 PM

For others that have wired this in a split/single phase setting, how did you wire up your band heaters since I will only have 2 hot legs at 120v to work with?

I was wondering if anyone has had experience repurposing a used industrial regranulator/shredder instead of building the PP shredder? If space and electrical requirements are not an issue is this a good alternative if you need a machine that meets certain operator safety requirements?

kiki_603

I was wondering if anyone has had experience repurposing a used industrial regranulator/shredder instead of building the PP shredder? If space and electrical requirements are not an issue is this a good alternative if you need a machine that meets certain operator safety requirements?

i mean those machines are generally better than the PP machines

5:31 PM

often theyve got better safety and efficiency

itsgeorge

For others that have wired this in a split/single phase setting, how did you wire up your band heaters since I will only have 2 hot legs at 120v to work with?

120V doesn't have enough capacity to run everything on a Pro. Single phase 220v does though. Have a diagram in the works if you need.

kiki_603

I was wondering if anyone has had experience repurposing a used industrial regranulator/shredder instead of building the PP shredder? If space and electrical requirements are not an issue is this a good alternative if you need a machine that meets certain operator safety requirements?

Depending where you are, you can find a lot of second hand industrial machine, sometimes at crazy prices. In Europe, you can find some good shredders, that doesn't need any refit. It will be the best (both no need to build a new machine, and often more efficient). For other machines, like extruders, you need to be a bit more careful, as refitting an non working machine can lead to some complexity (no availability of parts or drawings etc...). In which country are you ?

Yann

Depending where you are, you can find a lot of second hand industrial machine, sometimes at crazy prices. In Europe, you can find some good shredders, that doesn't need any refit. It will be the best (both no need to build a new machine, and often more efficient). For other machines, like extruders, you need to be a bit more careful, as refitting an non working machine can lead to some complexity (no availability of parts or drawings etc...). In which country are you ?

Im in the US and I have seen some really reasonably priced used shredders online! Im guessing replacing/sharpening the cutterhead would be a big necessary upgrade on an old regranulator, but ultimately worth it. I am making my plastics workspace at a University and have been cautioned that getting an hand built shredder up to EHS standards might be very expensive. I do plan on building the other machines like the compression and injection mold because they have less moving parts to consider when building.

1

Someone got the .STEP files of the V.3 screw from the extruder ? Thks !

Yann

Hello, it is a combination of both melted plastic in the thread of the adapter and round tube that are hard to clamp. The main problem is the plastic in your thread, you need to melt it again to be able to move your adapter. As you bottom heater is dead unfortunately, use a air heater or a flame burner to bring this part above 150 - 200°C. Then if this is still sliding in your vice, you can try this : get 2 corner in aluminium, texture them with a grinder or a dremel, and put that in between your vice and the barrel tube, it should give some extra grip.

Thank you! Adding a little bit of heat did the trick (though I just forced the broken heater and shifted the next one to the tip, if anyone finds this thread in the future).

TimberNuts

Someone got the .STEP files of the V.3 screw from the extruder ? Thks !

You mean this one? https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw

CatstopherReeves

Does anyone have a guide or something I can look at that explains how to design molds?

this might help

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/design-an-injection-mould

Kat

You mean this one? https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw

Precisely ! thank you very much ! Have a good day !

1

Hi guys do you know what i can do in my extrusion machine if the ground is making a short circuit with the the heating resistance?btw the machine is 220 monophase (edited)

@Gerardo Garza Change the resistance for a new one, Is posible it's wrong

If it's phase to ground there must be a wire broken somewhere

Hello, I’m a mechanical engineer student from Berlin, Germany. I’m doing an internship in a small company who works a lot with 3D printers. Currently I’m trying to find a way to produce PLA filament by ourselves to reduce productions cost but also to recycle failed prints later on. My goal is to find or build a machine that is capable of producing around 1 Kg/h of 1,75 mm PLA Filament and that costs not more then 1000€ (using PLA pellets first). I’ve already checked Filament Extruders to buy but most of them are too expensive, not able to produce so much PLA in one hour or have pretty vague information. Of course I also checked the DIY Extruders and Kits like Lyman Filament Extruder V5/V6 or E1.6 by ARTME 3D. None of them meet the boundary conditions especially the extrusion rate. Then I found Precious Plastic. First of all: amazing work folks! Your work is super interesting and I’m super happy that there are people like you that makes the world actively a better place

And thank you for making this all open source I’ve already learned a lot! Questions: Did you ever tried producing Filament, especially 1,75 mm PLA? And if so, do you have any further information f.e. about the extrusion rate? Would you recommend the Extrusion Basic or Pro for this task? Is there any other construction manual besides the video? I hope someone can help me. Thank you so much in advance! Greetings from Berlin (I hope this is the right channel)

@sioux612 is producing Filament

2

Filament Maker 3000

Hello, I’m a mechanical engineer student from Berlin, Germany. I’m doing an internship in a small company who works a lot with 3D printers. Currently I’m trying to find a way to produce PLA filament by ourselves to reduce productions cost but also to recycle failed prints later on. My goal is to find or build a machine that is capable of producing around 1 Kg/h of 1,75 mm PLA Filament and that costs not more then 1000€ (using PLA pellets first). I’ve already checked Filament Extruders to buy but most of them are too expensive, not able to produce so much PLA in one hour or have pretty vague information. Of course I also checked the DIY Extruders and Kits like Lyman Filament Extruder V5/V6 or E1.6 by ARTME 3D. None of them meet the boundary conditions especially the extrusion rate. Then I found Precious Plastic. First of all: amazing work folks! Your work is super interesting and I’m super happy that there are people like you that makes the world actively a better place

And thank you for making this all open source I’ve already learned a lot! Questions: Did you ever tried producing Filament, especially 1,75 mm PLA? And if so, do you have any further information f.e. about the extrusion rate? Would you recommend the Extrusion Basic or Pro for this task? Is there any other construction manual besides the video? I hope someone can help me. Thank you so much in advance! Greetings from Berlin (I hope this is the right channel)

Hi, I'm even a german guy, but I don't produce PLA, and I hadn't looked at PP stuff regarding filament extrusion before I bought my Noztek line When looking at industrial lines you can calculate about 7k€ per kg/h, and thats under good circumstances with easy material (PLA) My line cost about 14k and should manage 2kg/h, the industrial line I looked at cost 140k for 20kg/h With filament extrusion you will always have diameter variations and some printers really can't deal with that, while others don't care. In the end you will always see the diameter changes though (I'll post a pic to make it obvious what I mean)

2:09 PM

Left my material, right is bought material

2:10 PM

Color difference stems from air trapped between lines when underextruding

2:11 PM

Diameter should be 9.5, but ranges from 9-10 with my filament

2:12 PM

Unless its somebodies entire job to just ahve the filament line running, it will not produce material that you will want to use

2:13 PM

Would maybe pellet extruders make more sense for your org?

Hey @sioux612, thanks for the fast reply (and thanks @Philipp ) mhm ok thank you for all the information and showing me what the biggest problems are, even with an 7K € printer. I also know that the company's goal is pretty ambitious and even harder with a selfmade printer. My job is first of all to research if there is a possibility that this could work and I really wanna try to get this to work and thats why im here: Precious Plastic says that their Extruder has a output up to 5 Kg/h (!) depending on the nozzle size, and that the price should be lower than 1000€. Thats why I'm curious if anyone has tried producing filament with PLA so far or has further information about the extrusion rate with a nozzle size of 1,75 mm + tolerance values. A pellet extruder wouldnt help in this case because we're using different filament printers and the main goal is to reduce the cost for filament and later recycling scrap prints back to filament. But i appreciate the help! Thanks!

Hello there! I just joined this server after search about the extrusion machine in Precious Plastic's website. I really wonder abut that, maybe you can help me how to get that machine? Thank you.

@DeeHP https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/

Precious Plastic Bazar

Plastice to sell products, machines, and plastic. Empowering our recycling ecosystem around the world.

Filament Maker 3000

Hey @sioux612, thanks for the fast reply (and thanks @Philipp ) mhm ok thank you for all the information and showing me what the biggest problems are, even with an 7K € printer. I also know that the company's goal is pretty ambitious and even harder with a selfmade printer. My job is first of all to research if there is a possibility that this could work and I really wanna try to get this to work and thats why im here: Precious Plastic says that their Extruder has a output up to 5 Kg/h (!) depending on the nozzle size, and that the price should be lower than 1000€. Thats why I'm curious if anyone has tried producing filament with PLA so far or has further information about the extrusion rate with a nozzle size of 1,75 mm + tolerance values. A pellet extruder wouldnt help in this case because we're using different filament printers and the main goal is to reduce the cost for filament and later recycling scrap prints back to filament. But i appreciate the help! Thanks!

Hi @Filament Maker 3000. I'm almost finished building a relatively small extruder that might work for you. https://www.hardware-x.com/article/S2468-0672(18)30020-8/fulltext While the published output doesn't meet what you're looking for (0.4 kg/h - I haven't tested this yet), many of the parts used to build it are 3D printed, the cost is about $700 USD, and some relatively minor alterations (increase the size of the heating barrel, using multiple barrels, etc.) could potentially get you to 1 kg/h. Also, some really cool ideas on producing filament on the #archived-3d-printing channel you should check out.

1

Joseph

@DeeHP https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/

thank you. I will look for it.

BillC

Hi @Filament Maker 3000. I'm almost finished building a relatively small extruder that might work for you. https://www.hardware-x.com/article/S2468-0672(18)30020-8/fulltext While the published output doesn't meet what you're looking for (0.4 kg/h - I haven't tested this yet), many of the parts used to build it are 3D printed, the cost is about $700 USD, and some relatively minor alterations (increase the size of the heating barrel, using multiple barrels, etc.) could potentially get you to 1 kg/h. Also, some really cool ideas on producing filament on the #archived-3d-printing channel you should check out.

Hey @BillC, thanks a lot for showing me this Extruder. I've recently looked through a lot of DIY Filament Extruder instructions and this is by far one of the most accurate and detailed ones. As far as I can tell it also combines the best solutions for the different stages of producing Filament (e.g. Mulier diameter control, clever but simple cooling line etc.). I will consider it as an option or solution to this project. The biggest problem I’m facing is that to reach the desired extrusion rate from 0,4 Kg/h to 1 Kg/h, I must change not only the size of the heating barrel or using multiple barrels but also the motor or screw diameter etc. what makes it almost a completely new extruder to get an 2,5 factor in extrusion rate. At least that is my impression, but it could also come from the lack of experience I have. That’s why I'm looking for an Extruder that is closest to the desired requirements. But maybe this extruder is still the best option to choose because the detailed information’s makes it easier to modify. So, thank you so far and maybe you have some more experience that helps me further. Good luck with your project and please keep me updated about your results, if you'd like.

1

1:34 PM

ah and I will check out the channel, thanks!

Hey gays I need machine and moulds please how much

William Sakwah

Hey gays I need machine and moulds please how much

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/

Precious Plastic Bazar

Plastice to sell products, machines, and plastic. Empowering our recycling ecosystem around the world.

Okay

Hey all. I got a question. I noticed the files they gave out for the machines blueprint on the precious plastic website are STEP files...Is it possible to get a different file version?? My machine shop guy is asking for DWG file and I don't know how to get it done.

The blueprints are in pdf normally. And then the laser cut files are normally both in dwg and step. For which machine you are missing them ?

Im trying to get the hand cranked shredder for my laser cutter. it only has the Step file but i need the dwg one. (edited)

I am wondering which shredder then. We only developed a motored shredder. This might be someone else development, that is not fully documented ? If you go in the precious-plastic-kit\3. Build\1. Shredder\Blueprints\00_laser files, you will have laser cut files, both in DXF and DWG.

new extrusion screw arrived 1.2 meters long. i guess a version 4.1? V5?

dadda29993

Does anyone have an injection machine with a diameter of 1 and a quarter inches? I'm building a new injection machine (Elena) and I wanted to put a larger barrel than the standard 1 inch one. Can it work?

robot digg. they have the v4 and bigger screws

yeah. I was referring to this one. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/human-powered-shredder

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Butte (PP Philippines)

new extrusion screw arrived 1.2 meters long. i guess a version 4.1? V5?

Yeah I'd say on the way to v5. Is that the 45mm from Robotdigg?

Hi i would like to build a shredder pro and would like to know who can supply me with the laser cut parts

Something for you guys

aka new shredder https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/940908421882994728/941730438974668861 (edited)

2

CitSciWorkshop

Yeah I'd say on the way to v5. Is that the 45mm from Robotdigg?

30mm x1.2 meters. 130usd. A bargain

1

I'm looking to set up a shedder space and have a question on sizing the pro-shedder motor. The only real reference to motor size I can find is in the materials list from the complete download kit. What are the minimum specs for the motor? Just looking at the link to the motor in materials list it looks like a torque of 350 Nm and 40 rpm. Is that correct? I'm in the States where motors are generally sized in horsepower. So that would be about 2.5HP motor, correct?

Hi everyone, I had a question about getting a shredder and extrusion machine. I know both of these machines are extremely expensive, so I was wondering if there was some sort of alternative that I could us to shred plastic and extrude it. Also, would it be possible to make moulds out of metal. If so, can anyone give some advice on how to make a mould?

Does anyone know of a U.S. workspace that has a really high volume injection machine?

Picked up an old Filabot Wee. It'll need a strip down and service but it seems to work as it stands. Maybe I'll be able to start making my own filament in the next month or so.

4

Hi all, I'm just starting out and currently getting a quote for shredder parts from my local engineering firm - they are asking what steel I would like to use - assume its best to use wear resistant steel, something like Hardox?

Yes, hardox for rotating blades and fixed blades. You can use mild steel for the box.

1

Gillscorner

Hi all, I'm just starting out and currently getting a quote for shredder parts from my local engineering firm - they are asking what steel I would like to use - assume its best to use wear resistant steel, something like Hardox?

Hello. a 450 or 550 HB hardox steel is too much for plastic. For 99% of the cases with an S235JR it works very well. The knifes, the fixed knife "long", the fixed knife "short" and the knife spacer in hardox is too expensive.

4:21 PM

we sold our first shredder more than 3 years ago and no one has asked us for spare parts for the blades.

Thanks guys

getting some prices is stainless a good all round approach?

Gillscorner

Thanks guys

getting some prices is stainless a good all round approach?

yes, a AISI304 is a good stainless. but not used stainless for the knifes, regular steel for the shaft, etc... if you choose stainless, used stainless in all the the shredder

6:18 PM

if you used stainless and regular steel, you will get "galvanic couple". I'm not sure it's the right word in English...

hi guys im new here , nice comunity you build up

sorry if im straight away but is it still a good idea to start a machine shopor are there already enough? thanks and big respect for what youre doing

PPCapiSpain

yes, a AISI304 is a good stainless. but not used stainless for the knifes, regular steel for the shaft, etc... if you choose stainless, used stainless in all the the shredder

Thanks, it will all be stainless and yes galvanic reaction is good english

Hi

Regular steel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5t1Te_GVM4 redesign of the v3-v4 extrusion machine for increased safety and lower cost.

Precious Plastic Philippines

Redesign of the Precious Plastic extrusion machine

8:44 AM

this v3 machine is nearly 3 years old already. it has been disassembled and the parts re-used to make this improved version

8:44 AM

still a work in progress. in the end it will be fully enclosed with fresh epoxy paint.

Hello there, has anyone had success in making pipe/tube with an extrusion machine? I'm new to discord, apologies if this is in the wrong place!

sawtoothwave11

Hello there, has anyone had success in making pipe/tube with an extrusion machine? I'm new to discord, apologies if this is in the wrong place!

with this machine?

7:22 PM

no it is not possible as it lacks the pressure and throughput

7:23 PM

it is possible to make pipes with recycled plastic and its quite commonly done but youll need the normal machines for that

What is a 'normal' machine? An industrial one? I am looking to use the v4 extruder pro....

sawtoothwave11

What is a 'normal' machine? An industrial one? I am looking to use the v4 extruder pro....

industrial or commercial

7:28 PM

the v4 wont work at all

7:28 PM

the main problem is the die and the pressure

PPCapiSpain

if you used stainless and regular steel, you will get "galvanic couple". I'm not sure it's the right word in English...

It isn't a major issue if the machine isn't running wet. With a light coat of MoS2 grease between the parts there is no problem in that kind of construction.

I disagree. the galvanic reaction is produced dry.

PPCapiSpain

I disagree. the galvanic reaction is produced dry.

Nope, without an electrolite galvanic corrosion between mild and stainless steel is near zero. Add just a little bit of chlorine compound and it happen quickly, but I hope no one is running a shredder with salty water. It can be different if you talk about screws and bolt, but it has to do with stress corrosion. And it also need some electrolite. Nothing to worry about in shredder construction. I'm working on stainless steel for about two decades, making operating tables, for example on that kind of construction there are two different enviroments, the exposed parts, usually cleaned with strong cleaners and disinfectants, like acids and chlorine, who have to be shot-peened to remove any ferous particle on the surface, then passivated and electropolished, and the internal parts, where is usual to connect mild steel or "low grade" stainless like AISI420 with 3xx series stainless. (edited)

I see mild steel blades on a (probably) C45 shaft put together without grease and clear sign of humidity between the parts. Maybe I'm wrong. (edited)

I do not know exactly your work, but it is habitual. In my case, I worked in a heavy metal company (structures, warehouses, etc...), and we had different work areas with different machines for that reason.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I see mild steel blades on a (probably) C45 shaft put together without grease and clear sign of humidity between the parts. Maybe I'm wrong. (edited)

Shaft stainless

11:22 PM

it's nice to discuss these issues with you. but it's too late for me. thanks for sharing your experience

11:22 PM

It is normal to separate stainless and mild steel construction if there are the risk of pollute the stainless construction, expecially during storage, grinding and welding. You can't sell a stainless surface with mild steel scratches or grinded with an abrasive disc that had worked on mild steel, for example. It is something different in mechanics. And however, even if it has surface corrosion, that shaft is fully functional. Try to put together the parts with grease between them, and you avoid any corrosion (in dry enviroment). However, my shredder haven't that problem, since is all made from a solid bar of alloy steel and nitrided...

1

Hello guys! do you know what is the purpose of the circle cut outs on the points and sides on the inside of the blades?

gumarum

Hello guys! do you know what is the purpose of the circle cut outs on the points and sides on the inside of the blades?

you align them to achieve the tooth pattern on the axle.

Is anyone here using 100v ->200v inverter to run the shredder? Here in Japan the electricity is 100v 60Hz and I'm making a shredder with a 200v 1500w motor with the help of inverter Freqrol d700. Inverter stops like every 10 sec when I try to shred around 500g of plastic bottle caps... The inverter says too much current flowed. The current meter shows it goes as high as 1000w. Maybe the current rise instantly when the load is big. I hope there's the way to avoid the shredder to stop so frequently without reducing the load...

okapi

Is anyone here using 100v ->200v inverter to run the shredder? Here in Japan the electricity is 100v 60Hz and I'm making a shredder with a 200v 1500w motor with the help of inverter Freqrol d700. Inverter stops like every 10 sec when I try to shred around 500g of plastic bottle caps... The inverter says too much current flowed. The current meter shows it goes as high as 1000w. Maybe the current rise instantly when the load is big. I hope there's the way to avoid the shredder to stop so frequently without reducing the load...

Different VFD has different settings. Search on its manual if there is a parameter to select its behavior when current peaks are higher than the nominal. For example, I have some different VFD on different appliance, some can be set to a % of overcurrent for a given time, some can reduce the frequency to reduce load to meet the nominal current. You can also try (but it is something like a "raw" setting) to set the motor nominal current slightly higher than the nominal of the motor. Industrial motors are capable to resist some stresses, the nominal current is the one the motor can give constantly for its duty-cycle, and for industrial motors the duty cycle is 100% (they can work 24h constantly at that power output). You can set the current 10~15% higher than the nominal of the motor, but you have to let it cool when needed (for example, 1' on 15% overcurent and 2' running without or with little load). They have some heat inertia, so there are no problems with little overload. Think for example what means for motors starting when directly connected to the grid under load.

1

gumarum

Hello guys! do you know what is the purpose of the circle cut outs on the points and sides on the inside of the blades?

Should be the same number of blades with 1, 2, and 3 holes (I can't remember how many fit on the axle, but it's close to an equal amount for each). When assembling, you alternate 1,2,3,1,2,3, etc. Makes putting it together a lot easier and gives you a nice cutting flow similar to the image you posted.

1

sponsoons

it is possible to make pipes with recycled plastic and its quite commonly done but youll need the normal machines for that

Do you know of any commercial places that make tubing with recycled plastic?

letsjumpla

Do you know of any commercial places that make tubing with recycled plastic?

no names that i can take,but almost all the cheaper places use recycled and scrap plastic for making pipes as it is a lot cheaper

5:47 AM

for pvc,you first grind,granulate and then extruder the plastic into pipes

Is there an injection machine with a higher barrel volume than the basic one? Trying to find one that could accommodate a larger mold, or that has a higher plastic output per injection.

@letsjumpla Yes, We at RecoSolution built a Injection machine with capacity of 650 Gms in One Strock.

Hi all, sorry this could be a silly question but anyway. I bought a shredder on a bazar. Is it OK when blades and spacers are not tightened? I mean there is a tolerance of about 0.5-0.8 mm in my case and when I rotate there is a clattering. Also left and right blades are touch the walls.

letsjumpla

Is there an injection machine with a higher barrel volume than the basic one? Trying to find one that could accommodate a larger mold, or that has a higher plastic output per injection.

theres the elena xmax

4:18 PM

open source and it has a big barrel volume

RKeyQQ

Hi all, sorry this could be a silly question but anyway. I bought a shredder on a bazar. Is it OK when blades and spacers are not tightened? I mean there is a tolerance of about 0.5-0.8 mm in my case and when I rotate there is a clattering. Also left and right blades are touch the walls.

Blades haven't to touch between eachoters and the walls. Seem that something has to being fixed.

Anyone else have problems with snapping shafts for V2 Shredder? This is my second one that has snapped. My first shaft lasted about 5 hours of shredding total. The second one lasted about 10 minutes.

11:40 PM

I remember @Butte (PP Philippines) talking about upgrading his shaft to a thicker size? Has anyone else done this? Do you guys think my shredder is misaligned?

Watching the crack and its position, it can be caused by misalignment (just inside the bearing, who is the point in wich the shaft is locked radially), but it can be just a matter of torque too high for the material.

itsgeorge

I remember @Butte (PP Philippines) talking about upgrading his shaft to a thicker size? Has anyone else done this? Do you guys think my shredder is misaligned?

Had many shaft breakages before changing to larger shaft. Had 5hp motor on the machine. Now only occasionally have the blade hex hole strip out and spin on the v3. Usually the end blade and shredding sticky soft plastics

12:18 AM

Another issue is the screen. It needs full weld, not spot weld. Discovered that 2 years ago. Then new welder hired and he tried to take shortcuts and had 4 warranty repair in a row.

@Butte (PP Philippines) How big of a shaft did you go with? Right now its 1 inch hex turned town to 3/4" shaft. What did you go with 1.5" down turned down to 1"?

12:40 AM

Alloy type you recommend?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Another issue is the screen. It needs full weld, not spot weld. Discovered that 2 years ago. Then new welder hired and he tried to take shortcuts and had 4 warranty repair in a row.

yea the sieve is definitely hard to weld. Had to weld a new one this morning because the shredder ate it up! I am using MIG and 18 gauge perforated sheet metal which is just about the point where it starts being hard to shape by hand and mallet

itsgeorge

yea the sieve is definitely hard to weld. Had to weld a new one this morning because the shredder ate it up! I am using MIG and 18 gauge perforated sheet metal which is just about the point where it starts being hard to shape by hand and mallet

We are using 2mm thick. Hard to form.

I think I need to redesign my feed hopper for the v5 extrusion machine with some sort of stir mechanism to prevent the plastic from clogging the intake.

itsgeorge

Anyone else have problems with snapping shafts for V2 Shredder? This is my second one that has snapped. My first shaft lasted about 5 hours of shredding total. The second one lasted about 10 minutes.

Seems line your motor is Too powerful. Try to use Not that much Power or thicker shaft for the shredder

Just a reminder, keep a log of changes you made to your machines I had forgotten that i installed a 3mm nozzle instead of the normal 1.8mm nozzle on my filament extruder and that explains why the diameter was...less than amazing

Bonjour, je suis Enzo je suis entrepreneur en France et je souhaiterai lancer mon entreprise de recyclage de plastique avec les instructions de Precious plastique, est-ce qu'il y a un Français car je parle très mal Anglais qui pourrait venir m'aider en MP pour répondre à mes questions ? (je cherche quelqu'un qui a déjà une machine ou alors qui a monté son concept, ou autre...)

1

@enzo Je ne suis pas francais mais tu peux carrement avec google translate et le "plastic academy". Tu peux apprendre presque toute. Ils faisent "consulatition" aussi C'est une option mais j'imagine assez chere

10:29 PM

Hello all. Has anyone managed a 3 hour + extrusion with any extruder? I am really interested to see if it can handle this before I buy one

10:31 PM

@enzo aussi https://discord.gg/nqQtvXkq <--- Presious plastic franophone

hello. A client has asked me for a shredder in Aisi 316. Does anyone have experience with this steel?

You said before you already worked with 304 ? They are pretty similar, 316 get a better saline water resistance. Overall this is a stainless steel, so the classic apply there : avoid contamination with unalloyed steel (aka specific grinding disk, unused sanding disk etc...) For welding you can weld 316 to 316 with 316 filler metal / 316 to 304 with 316 filler metal / 316 to unalloyed with 309 filler metal. And for cutting or milling, this is softer so slightler higher cutting speed and specific tools.

Yann

You said before you already worked with 304 ? They are pretty similar, 316 get a better saline water resistance. Overall this is a stainless steel, so the classic apply there : avoid contamination with unalloyed steel (aka specific grinding disk, unused sanding disk etc...) For welding you can weld 316 to 316 with 316 filler metal / 316 to 304 with 316 filler metal / 316 to unalloyed with 309 filler metal. And for cutting or milling, this is softer so slightler higher cutting speed and specific tools.

Thz you

Hi everyone, with two other students we are starting to work on the worksheet press for our engineering school (ICAM Lille) and we would love to see the press and meet some people who use it in a recurent way (daily, weekly etc); does anyone know if there is a working press between Belgium and Paris, or anyone of you would be available to show us the press? Thanks a lot in advance!

In France, there is a sheet-presses in Bordeaux, Orléans, Ajaccio and in the Drôme. At least that I know about.

Yann

In France, there is a sheet-presses in Bordeaux, Orléans, Ajaccio and in the Drôme. At least that I know about.

+ Johé Bruneau @ Lyon city, Rehab @ Concarneau city, @Marie.Pan in Belgium, Sauvage in Aix en Provence :)

1

Does anyone have a way to measure nozzle diameter in extruder nozzles? I have several nozzles in the 1.5-3mm range, some of them lightly covered in palstic, and over time I completly lost overview of their size, and my calipers don't fit too well into the hole too measure.

sioux612

Does anyone have a way to measure nozzle diameter in extruder nozzles? I have several nozzles in the 1.5-3mm range, some of them lightly covered in palstic, and over time I completly lost overview of their size, and my calipers don't fit too well into the hole too measure.

i use the back end of drill bits

5:18 PM

but a proper gauge is recommended

That's a neat way to gauge, though I would prefer measuring over gauging if possible

sioux612

That's a neat way to gauge, though I would prefer measuring over gauging if possible

what about a pin gauge or a go no go

As a last resort I'll get it, it's just that some of them are not standard sized so I either need a massive collection of gauges or one measuring device

Hi, does anyone have experience with the Wellzoom filament extruder? https://www.amazon.com/Wellzoom-B2-Desktop-filament-extruder/dp/B01CNYCYAY

Wellzoom B2 Desktop Filament extruder

Wellzoom B2 desktop filament extruder specifically designed for non-professionals. It is based on minimalism, easy to operate. It has the speed control function. Because the use of a stepping motor, it has better scalability. Transparent hopper, allowing you to know whether you need to add pellet...

Hello community, The SAMJI workshop sells two precious plastic machines. They are in perfect working order, revisions made a month ago, and have not been used since. If anyone is interested, here are the machines:

1 plastic injection ( @lerecycleurfou )

_ 1 plastic extrusion ( @lerecycleurfou ) here are some pics

8:06 AM

For the Price : 4500€ /HT for the extrusion machine and 1500€ /HT for the injection machine. Contact : jean@ateliersamji.com

MBrady

Is it easier to sort plastics post-shredding or pre-shredding?

did you find your answer ?

MBrady

Is it easier to sort plastics post-shredding or pre-shredding?

pre-shredding

Hi all- I was recently looking into purchasing a used industrial granulator instead of building a shredder- prices seem cheaper than building the shredder (around $2000) and the EHS department where I work seems to like the idea of purchasing rather than building for the shredder-type tool. After more research however I learned that a granulator and a shredder have different attributes. Shredder is high torque low speed and it seems that most granulators are the opposite. Also due to this they seem LOUD. Does anyone have experience working with granulators in particular? What would be the things to plan for if I was to have a Granulator in an educational/research space?

kiki_603

Hi all- I was recently looking into purchasing a used industrial granulator instead of building a shredder- prices seem cheaper than building the shredder (around $2000) and the EHS department where I work seems to like the idea of purchasing rather than building for the shredder-type tool. After more research however I learned that a granulator and a shredder have different attributes. Shredder is high torque low speed and it seems that most granulators are the opposite. Also due to this they seem LOUD. Does anyone have experience working with granulators in particular? What would be the things to plan for if I was to have a Granulator in an educational/research space?

the main thing is they are loud and not too hard to mess up

7:42 PM

so if it public facing and youve got like kids or people whove never worked with machines then they're a bit dangerous

kiki_603

Hi all- I was recently looking into purchasing a used industrial granulator instead of building a shredder- prices seem cheaper than building the shredder (around $2000) and the EHS department where I work seems to like the idea of purchasing rather than building for the shredder-type tool. After more research however I learned that a granulator and a shredder have different attributes. Shredder is high torque low speed and it seems that most granulators are the opposite. Also due to this they seem LOUD. Does anyone have experience working with granulators in particular? What would be the things to plan for if I was to have a Granulator in an educational/research space?

Yes, granulator are in general (not always) very loud ! But you could also use them in a separate room, or in a specific timing where people are not there or with hearing protection maybe ? You can also look for "slow speed granulator", which a bit in between a shredder and a granulator, there are generally more robust and less loud.

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kiki_603

Hi all- I was recently looking into purchasing a used industrial granulator instead of building a shredder- prices seem cheaper than building the shredder (around $2000) and the EHS department where I work seems to like the idea of purchasing rather than building for the shredder-type tool. After more research however I learned that a granulator and a shredder have different attributes. Shredder is high torque low speed and it seems that most granulators are the opposite. Also due to this they seem LOUD. Does anyone have experience working with granulators in particular? What would be the things to plan for if I was to have a Granulator in an educational/research space?

the main thing ive noticed is granulators dont like foreign objects,so things like rocks and hard metal pieces will damage granulators more due to the spped

1

7:48 PM

shredders generally wont give you that good control size of the flakes,that will be there with a a granulator

7:48 PM

granulators will sometimes find trouble with things like film and fibre as it will wrap around the rotors

1

7:49 PM

but thats about it,buying second hand is often a good idea esp for commercial/industrial machinery

7:49 PM

please be sure to check if a warranty/support is there and to make sure that youre buying the machine from a reputable source

7:50 PM

granulators atleast for me are also a bit faster for their cost

7:51 PM

esp the ones with flywheels will tolerate a bit of voltage fluctuations

7:52 PM

please make sure you get the manual and other papers that the machine may have as they are quite important

7:52 PM

other than this,for most purposes they are quite similar

All is there, perfect summary by @sponsoons

1

thank you guys so much! I work in a woodshop so hearing protection and loud constant noise doesn't bother me and thankfully all the other people sharing the building are used to it from the wood shop- so it sounds like a granulator will be in my future!

11:21 PM

I wasn't sure exactly how loud they were based on the youtube videos i could fine, but if they are like jointer/planer levels of noise that will be fine for my setup

kiki_603

I wasn't sure exactly how loud they were based on the youtube videos i could fine, but if they are like jointer/planer levels of noise that will be fine for my setup

fairly similar

Hi everyone, I am trying to estimate the consumption rate of a precious plastics shredder. Previously I found a rate of roughly 22 lbm/hr on the Precious Plastics website, but after doing some calculations it does not seem realistic. Additionally, upon a more recent check, I did not see this information on the website anymore. Does anyone who has shredded plastic have an estimation for how much plastic can be shredded in a given amount of time? Thanks!

are we making the plastic brick too complicated? Saw this CEB press machine again today, and it got me thinking. With the v4 extrusion... A lego style block... with ejection... https://youtu.be/B6V3UQmEw5c

teardroptrailers

Homemade CEB Press on the cheap

OSE Has a CEB Press Too While on the Topic / For Comparison / Hardware Documentation i guess! https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_v17.08 https://wiki.opensourceecology.org/wiki/CEB_Press_Genealogy https://youtu.be/984GDcLY1Y0

CEB Press Production Run, by Open Source Ecology

5:43 AM

The video/photo documentation is a bit of a mess so sorry about that! I can help you find stuff on the wiki if need be, and once i get time i can try and clean the pages up a bit / find some better footage links; the video i posted is of a slightly older design.

5:43 AM

On Another Note

5:43 AM

https://youtu.be/HCL31ZhyFwA

The Practical Engineer

Zelf een Rotocaster bouwen!

5:44 AM

I can't be used for thermoplastics (as of now!), but a neat DIY (and maybe OS) Rotocasting Machine for Hollow Objects!

Eric Lotze

https://youtu.be/HCL31ZhyFwA

i tried building a homemade setup for rotomolding a few years ago,and the main problem i had was heating,id either get unheated or burnt spot

5:59 AM

also a lot of the plastic i tried had a habbit of becoming chunks inside the mold

5:59 AM

so instead of coating the mold walls it would just become a chunk that fell around in the mold

6:02 AM

also the typical rotocasters you see not meant for working with heated applications,wont work with heated plastic cuz the frame interferes too much with the heating

Eric Lotze

https://youtu.be/HCL31ZhyFwA

this was in the v2 version. not supported now

sponsoons

also the typical rotocasters you see not meant for working with heated applications,wont work with heated plastic cuz the frame interferes too much with the heating

and unless youre working with small molds and parts,the energy and motor required to move the mold like a typical rotocaster is way too much

6:03 AM

so you need one of those simplified rocker machines

Hey! I'm a college student working on a shredder project. I have a couple doubts and would love if anyone could help me out. I'm working to primarily shred plastic bottles and I'm trying to make it as small as possible. I was wondering if I could achieve the small size of shredded plastic even with the first version of the shredder since it is a lot smaller. It doesn't have to process huge volumes like an industrial grade one might but still slightly more than a hobbyist would. And obviously the size constraint is also on the power size, I plan on mounting it parallel to the shredder axes but I assumed since it wouldn't process huge volumes, that shouldn't be an issue. Again I'm still a student learning and would love inputs on any aspect

6:45 AM

6:46 AM

I’m having issues when trying to figure out the power and torque required for it. I wanted to make a single rotating shaft version like the initial shredder design, couldn’t find the files on the website so I kinda just used some from the newer one and made this. P Please do let me know if how to figure it out and if there are any other changes that I can do.

Hi, I don't know it this is the right place to ask this question. But I am looking for people who use ✨ full face powered Air-Purifying Respirators✨ instead of the 3M half face masks with disposable filters, that are recommended in the Safty and Fumes video by PP on Youtube. I have been using that recommenced mask for a while now, but the massive downside to that mask, is that you can only wear it 3-4 hours a day, as per recommendation by 3M. This is in part due to the breathing resistance and its effect on the lungs - something a powered mask would solve as it is doing the 'heavy breath' for me lol

BUT I am having a hardtime navigating the powered mask market, so any knowlage you can share would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Everyone! We are building a plastic extruder with parts we got manufactured, but it's been a bit confusing, and they made a slightly different design, and i wanted to know if you all had some advice on a couple quick things

8:40 PM

Hahahah I just sent a picture of my hand pointing to our extruder and it got flagged by Discord as "explicit"

8:40 PM

8:41 PM

So you can see both bearings were on one side like that. but if that's the case there is nothing there to hold the metal key that connects the shaft of the threaded rod with the shaft that goes to the gearbox

8:43 PM

So instead i moved one bearing to the other side of the bearing container (on the other side of the hole) so that i could position the rods so that the hole lets me tighten that metal key being held in place by both bearings. Is this correct?

8:44 PM

In this arrangement (bearings straddling the key) the screw seems far too short and stops like 10cm before the end of the barrel, so i feel it is wrong

I_Jobless

I’m having issues when trying to figure out the power and torque required for it. I wanted to make a single rotating shaft version like the initial shredder design, couldn’t find the files on the website so I kinda just used some from the newer one and made this. P Please do let me know if how to figure it out and if there are any other changes that I can do.

Only thing you might run into is the small teeth will struggle to grab a round bottle. IE it will just bounce over the top off the blades. Single axis shredders are great for simplicity but large items are harder to shred. We went from a 5 tooth to a 3 tooth and it helps catch bigger items. However, larger blades increase cutting force as opposed to small teeth. Get the biggest motor you can find

hikinghack

Click to see attachment 🖼️

check the position according to drawing on both sides, being bearing well fitted and the use of an o-ring in the seal piece in case it doenst have it, for the screw doesnt see in pic, it should be tested if it seems well enough = )

1

blk.wth

Only thing you might run into is the small teeth will struggle to grab a round bottle. IE it will just bounce over the top off the blades. Single axis shredders are great for simplicity but large items are harder to shred. We went from a 5 tooth to a 3 tooth and it helps catch bigger items. However, larger blades increase cutting force as opposed to small teeth. Get the biggest motor you can find

got it, any suggestions on what minimum torque would work?

Hello, I from Canada, and I need a plastic shredder. Anyone may help me find a machine-shop near me?

I_Jobless

Click to see attachment 🖼️

I am working in something similar, let's know each other better email me ruiegsilva@gmail.com

Hey! I'm not an active member, my time is mostly spent with laser equipment, but I'm mindblown by the concept of DIY plastic recycling so I lurk here a lot. I'm trying to help an acquaintance with some minor machine modifications, we're in the cold, windy north and the only warmth inside the work area is provided by a small space heater, is there a good way to keep the molds warm between injections?

1:49 PM

My mind went to the sort of bottom plate you see in 3D printers but afaik they're usually made of glass.. probably not a great idea to put a metal object on top of one and press down with mechanical force..?

1:50 PM

Also wondering if anyone here has been successful in adding a pressure gauge to the injector machine? If so, any tips on the best/easiest place to install it?

1:53 PM

Apologies if all of this is in the how-to guides, I've looked but there's more material than I have free time to carefully digest :)

you can get Silicone rubber heat pads that will probably put up with a fair amount of force with the right backing.

Coxworth

Hey! I'm not an active member, my time is mostly spent with laser equipment, but I'm mindblown by the concept of DIY plastic recycling so I lurk here a lot. I'm trying to help an acquaintance with some minor machine modifications, we're in the cold, windy north and the only warmth inside the work area is provided by a small space heater, is there a good way to keep the molds warm between injections?

if your mold is steel,an induction plate(like youd have in a kitchen) is petty fast at heating up molds,as a flta top stoves from home kitchens

3:15 PM

pretty much anything can be used,i mostly use a normal oven cuz they have better temp and time control

3:16 PM

and no the stuff used in 3d printers would be wayyy to costly for this

Alu molds! Oven/stove top is probably overkill. Thinking about it, there's no reason the workbed on the injector must contain the heating element, that would just be convenient/save space. So, a heated bed that can be adjusted within a range of, say, 20-40°C, sturdy enough to act as a work surface while handling the molds between injections..

5:14 PM

Got a few ideas.

5:14 PM

Thanks for the input!

Once you inject plastic into a metal mold heat transfers from the plastic to the mold, is there anyway to capture the heat and store it as energy?

Hi recyclers. Is there similar report from Precious Plastic bazar from 2020 ? recently we got 2021 report. thanks. i just want to compare data

Hello there! I´m Gustavo from Brazil, and it´s my first contact with the AMAZING One Army work! I´m a teacher in electromechanics course and I´d like to bring some machine projects to challenge my students to build them. However in the Download Area of Precious plastic website I can´t find the link to the "simple" machines. Every download I make, I get the PRO version. Somebody help? Thanks in advance!

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Blades haven't to touch between eachoters and the walls. Seem that something has to being fixed.

Any ideas how? I mean, there is a shaft on bearings but bearings are not able to tighten or push blades in any way. How are blades supposed to be fixed in place? I see nothing in the official video regarding that. Probably I can put some spacers in between 1st blade and bearing and the last blade and bearing but why this was not mentioned in the original design? Strange...

Dear One Army, We are a startup in Belgium who would like to start a serious sheet production. But now we are looking for a bit more industrial sheet press, for sheets of 1.2m on 3.6m, until now without success. Does anybody here know a website or a dealer in industrial sheetmachines? Kind Regards Relastics

RKeyQQ

Any ideas how? I mean, there is a shaft on bearings but bearings are not able to tighten or push blades in any way. How are blades supposed to be fixed in place? I see nothing in the official video regarding that. Probably I can put some spacers in between 1st blade and bearing and the last blade and bearing but why this was not mentioned in the original design? Strange...

I can't remember how the "official" shredder is put together, I made my own design one to solve issues I've seen on those machines. However, rotary blades haven't to touch static ones.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I can't remember how the "official" shredder is put together, I made my own design one to solve issues I've seen on those machines. However, rotary blades haven't to touch static ones.

Not sure if it is able to see on a photo, but nothing is pushing blades from the "inside"

12:09 PM

the whole box is tightened, bearings are tightened, blades dangling left-right

I have the same problem too, do you have any advice on how to solve it? I tried to mince the same but many times the plastic bends because there is air

Kindly asking for a design for a small unit shredder.

Hi everyone, I'm building the injection machine and I have had trouble when trying to inject PET. The machine got stucked because the plastic solidified inside of the barrel, so I raised the temperature but it caused the PET to burn. I moved the plunger up and down in order to take as much plastic out as I could and it resulted in a thin layer of burnt PET forming in both the plunger and the barrel walls. I was able to clean all the plastic off the plunger using acetone and rubbing it really hard, but I can't completely clean the inside of the barrel since I don't reach the places where the plastic is, so the plunger won't slide in. Has anyone experienced the same problem? any ideas on how to clean it and how to avoid this happening?

antoniopr98

Hi everyone, I'm building the injection machine and I have had trouble when trying to inject PET. The machine got stucked because the plastic solidified inside of the barrel, so I raised the temperature but it caused the PET to burn. I moved the plunger up and down in order to take as much plastic out as I could and it resulted in a thin layer of burnt PET forming in both the plunger and the barrel walls. I was able to clean all the plastic off the plunger using acetone and rubbing it really hard, but I can't completely clean the inside of the barrel since I don't reach the places where the plastic is, so the plunger won't slide in. Has anyone experienced the same problem? any ideas on how to clean it and how to avoid this happening?

the main way of solving this when in does happen is to make sure you dont increase the temp too much in a bid to remove the plastic

@RKeyQQ you need spacers on the axle, so the bearings can "press" it little bit together... maybe the hex shaft isn't Machined exactly right (edited)

1

sponsoons

the main way of solving this when in does happen is to make sure you dont increase the temp too much in a bid to remove the plastic

atleast for me,a soft wire brush/hard plastic brush seemed to work

8:12 PM

as a worst case thing burning it out is an option

sponsoons

atleast for me,a soft wire brush/hard plastic brush seemed to work

OK, I'll try with the plastic brush, thank you!

Hello! Does anyone have experience with plastic milling? Help to pick up a CNC milling machine to create artistic cutting. For example, cut a word or logo up to 50 cm wide from a recycled HDPE sheet. (edited)

Max Bosoy

Hello! Does anyone have experience with plastic milling? Help to pick up a CNC milling machine to create artistic cutting. For example, cut a word or logo up to 50 cm wide from a recycled HDPE sheet. (edited)

might be simpler to get the sheet cut from somebody

Hello, we need help with wiring the v4 extruder, which has 2 heating bands so 2 PIDs, 2 SSR, Motor switch, power switch and input socket. We think we have it wired correctly but we need to double check. We tried looking for wiring diagrams online but they either don't match ours exactly or we don't understand them. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’m with the guy above me I’ll send a video in one second

here is what our extruder looks like

9:03 PM

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9:07 PM

A more detailed video of the wiring is being uploaded right now but for now this is our wiring box

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VTKyrtiLiA08a4EaMaXIUiKwSDe73cZa/view?usp=drivesdk here is the google drive link for the video since it is too big for discord

IMG_2310.MOV

9:18 PM

We just need to make sure our machine does not break when we plug it in

1

Helping via DM!

Can someone help me with the files for the single axle shredder? I couldn’t find it on the website. I just used the files from the dual axle shredder and modified it to a single axle but I still want to see if there’s ways I can improve it.

I_Jobless

Can someone help me with the files for the single axle shredder? I couldn’t find it on the website. I just used the files from the dual axle shredder and modified it to a single axle but I still want to see if there’s ways I can improve it.

have you downloaded the whole kit from PP website ?

Nick - PP France

have you downloaded the whole kit from PP website ?

No, I just downloaded the shredder files

download the whole kit and you'll find it in this folder

I will try to download the whole kit and look in there, I’m just working on the shredder currently so it didn’t occur to download the entire thing. (edited)

10:01 AM

Thank you

1

10:04 AM

Any resources to help with the force and torque calculations? I’m doing this as a project for college and for a start-up as well so I need to prove and stress test everything before I can try to get it manufactured?

10:05 AM

Since my design is slightly modified I have to do the calculations again for a sanity check and also to find the appropriate bearings

10:09 AM

https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculations-required-for-shredder/ I tried going through this previously but it’s telling this resource is denied :/

Hello Everyone, Shedder Question here: May I ask if anyone knows the proper combination for the motor and the reduction gear to shred HDPE, PET and the most common plastics. Thanks for sharing.

RKeyQQ

Any ideas how? I mean, there is a shaft on bearings but bearings are not able to tighten or push blades in any way. How are blades supposed to be fixed in place? I see nothing in the official video regarding that. Probably I can put some spacers in between 1st blade and bearing and the last blade and bearing but why this was not mentioned in the original design? Strange...

@RKeyQQ I had a similar issue. Check the axle to see if the washer fits flush to the hexagonal shoulder. The corner of my axle had a slight rounding which added space on each side causing the cutting teeth to wobble. I used a deburring tool to round the inside of the washer to get rid of the space. If that doesn't fix it, add a layer of kapton tape on the face of some blades to add thickness. Add tape to 2 at a time and then retest because if you add too much the bearings won't fit.

Max Bosoy

Hello! Does anyone have experience with plastic milling? Help to pick up a CNC milling machine to create artistic cutting. For example, cut a word or logo up to 50 cm wide from a recycled HDPE sheet. (edited)

Yes, I'm a lathe machinist and I sometime worked also various plastic materials. Virtually any machine who can mill wood can also work on plastics. You need very sharp tooling with a low number of teeth, Z1 or Z2 mills are the best, and it is better if the spindle has variable speed. The main difference between wood and plastic is that wood can't melt, working with plastic may need lower spindle speed to reduce heat buildup on the tool. Ideally a cutting speed around 500m/min or lower is the target, for my experience, sometime much lower. And for a basic rule, the feed speed can be around 0.01mm per teeth per every mm of the tool diameter (i.e. 0.2mm feed per rotation for a 10mm mill with two teeth), but it may vary for the different job, it is valid for full engagement of the tool, but if you are using the side of the mill to finish a side you can go faster, for example.

2

Hi everyone, we are working on the sheetpress project and the possible implantation of the press in our engineering school, but we may have a big concern about the machinery directive also known as european law 2006/42/CE? does anyone of you know if precious plastic create their machine with this in mind or not at all? (edited)

Hello, I’m looking for a two shaft shredding machine from China. If anyone both ordered before I’ll appreciate a reference. Thanks

Hello @🤙v4-team ! I'm a software engineer, and noticed that the precious plastic kit has an error on github that prevents Windows users from cloning the repository. A friend and I fixed it in August, but an admin needs to accept the "pull request." Who could I alert to get that taken care of?

adamj537

Hello @🤙v4-team ! I'm a software engineer, and noticed that the precious plastic kit has an error on github that prevents Windows users from cloning the repository. A friend and I fixed it in August, but an admin needs to accept the "pull request." Who could I alert to get that taken care of?

@davehakkens

adamj537

Hello @🤙v4-team ! I'm a software engineer, and noticed that the precious plastic kit has an error on github that prevents Windows users from cloning the repository. A friend and I fixed it in August, but an admin needs to accept the "pull request." Who could I alert to get that taken care of?

hey sorry missed that one! Approved. Thanks

1

Yo, can anyone help me calculate the mechanical advantage in ballscrews? Im guessing theres alteast 1 expert here : D got a nema34 12nm motor connected to a 2010 ballscrew with a 2.5x gear ratio in between Thanks in advance

Hi I understand that that you need an extrusion screw to make beams with the extrusion machine. The beams video mentions that blue prints are available but I cant find them - can somebody point me in the right direction - I am building the home version rather than the extruder pro

hello, does anyone sell sheet press 2 x 2 m or larger?

@JamesNZ here you have all the machine files! https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

12:42 PM

@D-Man hello! here is the link to our Bazar in where you can find the sheetpress that suits you best! though i believe the biggest one is 1.5 x 1.5 m https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/sheetpress/sheet-press-fully-built/

Machines :: Sheetpress :: Sheet Press Fully Built

Any one selling a shredder Pro that can send it to Indiana USA please contact me.

Running off the second half of my pen mould - hope everyone else is making chips this Friday night

1

Hallo is her aniwere with german lanuarge

Heinz

Hallo is her aniwere with german lanuarge

https://discord.gg/Fe5dquWb

Hola alguien sabe como construir un horno para fundir plastico ? planos gracias

Hello Guys, does anybody know where to find the best electric motor for the "basic extrusion" thanks!

12:56 AM

Yo No español!

hello im not sure if this is the right place to post this. Im having trouble making beams but i could be asking too much of my little machine. Has anyone been having similar to this results to this. 1. The 2 large heatbands i run at 220 degrees and the nozzle 260 degrees could this be to hot? 2. Its a concrete drill i had the barrel machined and she"s a really good fit, however total machine length is 30cm, and the screw flutes are spread apart allot, im wondering if its not creating enough compression pressure to keep forcing the beam along, 3. the machine is hand powered ive tried going both slow and fast and had the same results. (edited)

just trying to upload some photos now bear with

8:52 PM

these are the results i was hoping to get 150cm beams

8:53 PM

these are 40cm, the machine stops taking plastic

8:54 PM

8:56 PM

8:59 PM

9:02 PM

im using PP number 5 plastic

You might try heating both barrels around, 260C, and verify your actual temp in the barrel isn't over that. It's a short barrel with low pressure that can be produced by the hand crank, so you might also be running up into mechanical limitation as well.

the_artist_engineer

im using PP number 5 plastic

Clear all the PP5 out and try HDPE. Also you can add a block to act as a dam inside the mould to keep pressure on the part as it is extruding.

Does anybody know if I need exactly 2-24 volt soldi state relays? or can it be like 3-32V??

3:52 AM

Thanks

TKWithODI

Does anybody know if I need exactly 2-24 volt soldi state relays? or can it be like 3-32V??

The DC Input 3-32VDC is usually fine for a general purpose PID to control. Did you buy the SSRs as a set with PIDs or on their own?

CitSciWorkshop

You might try heating both barrels around, 260C, and verify your actual temp in the barrel isn't over that. It's a short barrel with low pressure that can be produced by the hand crank, so you might also be running up into mechanical limitation as well.

Okay great, i cant find any reference to temperatures whilst doiing a beam, i will try both at 260 with hdpe then.

CitSciWorkshop

You might try heating both barrels around, 260C, and verify your actual temp in the barrel isn't over that. It's a short barrel with low pressure that can be produced by the hand crank, so you might also be running up into mechanical limitation as well.

ive also welded 2 of the flute exit points closed to try and increase the pressure, and grinded the shaft diameter at the begining to catch more flakes

8:21 AM

my next step would be to build up the centre of the screw near the end? do you think there is any problem with this?

8:24 AM

the entry diameter reduced

8:26 AM

8:27 AM

exit point of screw

8:28 AM

8:29 AM

2 end flutes welded, so each helix, has only 1 exit point

8:30 AM

hope this makes sense, after modifying the screw like this i did get my best result

8:30 AM

ive also added a heat jacket now so the temperature can be sustained better

8:31 AM

thanks for you advise everyone

having some trouble finding a motor and gearbox for v2.1 shredder. any suggestions or sources ?

Hii i want to build the shredder and extrusion but i want to know the details of the motors

2:11 PM

Any help?

blk.wth

Clear all the PP5 out and try HDPE. Also you can add a block to act as a dam inside the mould to keep pressure on the part as it is extruding.

What's the benefit of HDPE over PP in this context?

SqueezeTheorem

What's the benefit of HDPE over PP in this context?

Establishing a baseline. PP is tough stuff. Easier to work with LDPE to start and get the process dialed in.

blk.wth

Establishing a baseline. PP is tough stuff. Easier to work with LDPE to start and get the process dialed in.

Easier as in more tolerant of variation in process setup?

SqueezeTheorem

Easier as in more tolerant of variation in process setup?

Yeah if it doesn't work with LDPE, it definitely will not work with PP

Kia ora looking for advice & guidance for building a shredder & Injection machine... any help would be gratefully appreciated

blk.wth

Yeah if it doesn't work with LDPE, it definitely will not work with PP

Excellent. Thank you!

3:59 AM

3 frames for v4 extrusion here. Our modified design will enclose all the moving parts, wire and hot surfaces

4:00 AM

2 unit with the v4 extrusion screw

4:00 AM

1 unit with a 1.2 meter screw

blk.wth

Establishing a baseline. PP is tough stuff. Easier to work with LDPE to start and get the process dialed in.

Okay will have a go with hdpe thats all i have at the moment thankyou

8:48 AM

Does anyone know where i can get the PP coin stamps from to stamp material? this or a stamp maker where i can some custom made. only ones i found on bazar are from india and will not ship to UK

Where can i get plans/cad shredder v 3.3 at? The more robust basic shredder.

@HoboMachinist https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/

1

@Joseph thank you much!

CitSciWorkshop

The DC Input 3-32VDC is usually fine for a general purpose PID to control. Did you buy the SSRs as a set with PIDs or on their own?

Thanks for the response, I have not bought anything yet, am a noob to this and wanted to make sure that i don't have to get the EXACT thing. Would you recommend to buy them as a set with the PID's?

TKWithODI

Thanks for the response, I have not bought anything yet, am a noob to this and wanted to make sure that i don't have to get the EXACT thing. Would you recommend to buy them as a set with the PID's?

Yes, search for Inkbird PID on Amazon and you should find sets with a thermocouple and SSR.

OK, thanks! I see that. I will need to of those + 4 band heaters? Correct?

4:23 PM

2* no to

4:23 PM

this is what I'm looking at:https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Voltage-Thermocouple/dp/B08Y8GX1WT/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Inkbird+PID&qid=1647962529&sr=8-3

Inkbird PID Temperature Controller Kit, High Voltage 100ACV to 240A...

Inkbird PID Temperature Controller Kit, High Voltage 100ACV to 240ACV, Comes with SSR 40DA Solid State Relay, K Type Thermocouple, and White Heat Sink

TKWithODI

OK, thanks! I see that. I will need to of those + 4 band heaters? Correct?

yes!

Hey everyone, I can see that PID temperature control is currently a hot topic here. I am struggling with the cabling of the PID / SSR and switches... Does anyone have any connection drawings or videos that could help me how to connect 2 PID with 2 SSR and 3 band heaters? I also added a main power on/off switch. I added a picture about the current stage. I think I managed to connect a few things but far from done. Any help would be appreciated!

1

I wish I could help!

Szimi

Hey everyone, I can see that PID temperature control is currently a hot topic here. I am struggling with the cabling of the PID / SSR and switches... Does anyone have any connection drawings or videos that could help me how to connect 2 PID with 2 SSR and 3 band heaters? I also added a main power on/off switch. I added a picture about the current stage. I think I managed to connect a few things but far from done. Any help would be appreciated!

I can help!

Szimi

Hey everyone, I can see that PID temperature control is currently a hot topic here. I am struggling with the cabling of the PID / SSR and switches... Does anyone have any connection drawings or videos that could help me how to connect 2 PID with 2 SSR and 3 band heaters? I also added a main power on/off switch. I added a picture about the current stage. I think I managed to connect a few things but far from done. Any help would be appreciated!

Hope this helps

11_injection_electric_schematics.pdf

317.18 KB

Maker Island ☠ Leão

Hope this helps

wow this looks cool Thank you! Though, I will probably have questions once I get into the assembly again.

Can I ask which PID version is the basis of this drawing? Mine is an ITC-106VH where the numbering of the device is slightly different. So fx in mine, the number 9 and 10 is the power in/out.. and 3/4 would be the place to connect the temperature sensors. No big deal, just a heads up for people that one should pay attention when connecting these if the drawing was created based on a different version!

Ty🥂

having some trouble finding a motor and gearbox for v2.1 shredder. any suggestions or sources ?

Hi @Ty🥂 and @kevo3105. Some good postings on motor and gearbox selections that were helpful for me: 1) Discord post from @Dave Marin about selecting a motor, gearbox and VFD: https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/598855096121425920/673339069807198237 2) I think the Precious Plastics team has moved the old forum, but attached is a piece of a thread about getting the right torque. 3) One additional piece of advice is buy your motor/gearbox first and then build the frame. Otherwise you may need to customize the frame to support different motor/gear configurations and sizes

Choosing_motor-reducer_for_torque.pdf

50.76 KB

thank you

Hey guys. Does anyone know if I can use washing machine electromotor for shredder?

Hi, the shredder you are using is adjustable? Can change from 10-30 mm shredding materials with the same machine?

oh man, we have been trying to get an extruder pro machine we bought back in july working for months now. and we finally got it all set up (there were a bunch of erroneous information about what parts were compatible with what), but we got all the parts functioning. I tested the motor moving, and the heaters heating, and the sensors sensing. But on the very first time I tried heating it up to polypropylene temperatures, it was heating fine, but then one of the sensors started going backwards, and then reading negative, and then the box started shooting sparks from somewhere inside. Anyone have any idea what happened or how to fix it. it's running on 240V 3 phase power that comes from a hefty split-phase to 3 phase converter.

hikinghack

oh man, we have been trying to get an extruder pro machine we bought back in july working for months now. and we finally got it all set up (there were a bunch of erroneous information about what parts were compatible with what), but we got all the parts functioning. I tested the motor moving, and the heaters heating, and the sensors sensing. But on the very first time I tried heating it up to polypropylene temperatures, it was heating fine, but then one of the sensors started going backwards, and then reading negative, and then the box started shooting sparks from somewhere inside. Anyone have any idea what happened or how to fix it. it's running on 240V 3 phase power that comes from a hefty split-phase to 3 phase converter.

Sounds like the polarity on the thermocouples was incorrect and a solid state relay might have blown.

CitSciWorkshop

Sounds like the polarity on the thermocouples was incorrect and a solid state relay might have blown.

Good thinking, hopefully i can get in there and fix and not too much is broken

hikinghack

Good thinking, hopefully i can get in there and fix and not too much is broken

10:53 PM

Opened it up and this seems to be the thing that melted

Do you have a wiring schematic for it? Hard to tell what's going on there but my guess is something shorted across those wires or those connectors aren't rated for the power draw. The negative temperature is definitely a backwards thermocouple

I would also lean toward the second suggestion of waterppk, either these connector are not rated for the power, or the cables themselves are not, or the clamping inside the connector is bad and created an arc. Anyway a schematic and a global picture of the bow would highly help to understand what happend.

Hello! I’m new to the community. I was wondering if anyone had a lead on a machine shop in the New England area that could cut the pieces for the shred machine

PP NYC is one sort of close that should be able to assist. @maeme (edited)

Hey guys, do we know exactly what length of "cork" screw we need for the basic extruder? I am looking at this one:

DACD45C7-3424-4F22-96D5-9DD5A37E87BD_1_201_a.heic

576.89 KB

12:43 AM

I can't find too much on the PP website for this...

12:43 AM

thanks!

TechDaddyTomerts

Hey guys, do we know exactly what length of "cork" screw we need for the basic extruder? I am looking at this one:

The barrel has an inside diameter of 26mm, so you should look for a 25mm screw. Then the barrel length is 540mm. But if you go with a wood screw like this, I would recommend to get the screw first, and adapt your barrel around, as you can get a tube with a smaller diameter or length if needed.

TechDaddyTomerts

Hey guys, do we know exactly what length of "cork" screw we need for the basic extruder? I am looking at this one:

this might help https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

1

hello everyone! does anyone have experience working with GrabCad? I would like to know why i have some files with that cube on the left! bc those are the files i cannot preview in GrabCad and im trying to figure out how to fix it! (edited)

Yann

The barrel has an inside diameter of 26mm, so you should look for a 25mm screw. Then the barrel length is 540mm. But if you go with a wood screw like this, I would recommend to get the screw first, and adapt your barrel around, as you can get a tube with a smaller diameter or length if needed.

Thanks!

Carolina

this might help https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw

Thanks!

11:38 PM

Also, does anybody know where to get the correct electronic controls for the motor? Are those just going to be "stock" parts? I couldn’t find much info on the PP website...maybe I'm just not looking in the right spot? Thanks!

@TechDaddyTomerts My first extruder was with a 25mm Auger bit and 25mm barrel. Was fitting perfect. I am not sure if using a 25mm bit in a 26mm tube is a good idea as you will loose a lot of pression.

ok

thanks!

Hi guys, i'm new to Discord and hoping I can get some advice on where to ship machines from EU to The Gambia. I'm looking for Shredder Pro, Extruder Pro, Injector and SheetPress and would like to order ASAP. Any advice would be much appreciated

#archived-machines #archived-plastic #🥗europe #🌽africa

PP Gambia

Hi guys, i'm new to Discord and hoping I can get some advice on where to ship machines from EU to The Gambia. I'm looking for Shredder Pro, Extruder Pro, Injector and SheetPress and would like to order ASAP. Any advice would be much appreciated

#archived-machines #archived-plastic #🥗europe #🌽africa

Hey check out the bazar (https://bazar.preciousplastic.com) as many machine builders build and sell machines through there

Precious Plastic Bazar

Plastice to sell products, machines, and plastic. Empowering our recycling ecosystem around the world.

Hello everyone :), whilst ordering the laser cut sheet metal parts for the shredder, I noticed there are no tolerances specified in the DXF files. Parts with a width of 10 mm for example are expected to fit into a hole exactly the same width (10mm). In my experience these things wil cause it to be very hard to assemble and requires a lot of sanding to make all the parts fit. Did someone experience this problem while assembling or found a solution?

I didn't have any problem assembling the shredder, but it is possible that some holes there remain without tolerance, which make it rely on luck with your laser cutter. We made an improved version of the shredder, where these mistake have been corrected (as well as a more solid box design) : https://machine-inventory.preciousplastic.com/

1

Hey guys, I'm looking for people that have build an injection machine! I'm graduating on designing an arbor-based Injection machine, so if you have build either an original or a modified version of the Injection machine, send me a message!

2

Hello Precious Plastic Community. Let me start by congratulating each one of you for such a vibrant and active group of plastic waste conscious people. I am simply loving the learning I am gathering here.

1

2:34 PM

Now onto my requirement. I run an organisation in Lucknow (India) which educates and nudges people to segregate their municipal (household) plastic waste. I am looking for co-extrusion machine which can help me recycle maximum plastic waste types and convert them into plastic lumber made of recycled plastic. I aim to design useful products from these lumbers and sell in the market. Any help/pointers in this direction will be really really helpful.

Anyone on here selling injection machines in the US?

6:26 PM

Or does anyone know of anyone in the US that sell them?

Hi, is there a specific group for Precious Plastic shredders? I just built one, the basic one. But it failed to shred a plastic bottle

6:52 PM

also btw, there is a red "1" next to One Army on discord. What does that mean? I don't see any way to read what that notification is about. Btw I'm not very good at discord

@N22190 you can find suppliers on the Bazar in the USA! https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/

Precious Plastic Bazar

Plastice to sell products, machines, and plastic. Empowering our recycling ecosystem around the world.

@masCh KisieLWhat's the problem with your shredder? Not enough power from the motor?

10:39 AM

Btw the red 1 means that either you or everyone was mentionned

Hey! If you ever build an injection machine, you could help me improve the design by filling this survey: https://forms.gle/ZGyYhUCDFsoP4Tgu8 Thanks a lot!

Injection Machine Survey

2

Is there a place in PP website where you can find the design files for the arbor press injection machine? i am pretty sure they are not in the download kit

@blastic theres no arbor press injection machine yet from Precious Plastic

1

5:59 PM

But we're working on developing one !

1

Thankyou Joseph! i was asking because i saw it in the machine inventory. Keep up the GREAT work, i hope to open an injection workshop in a month in Genova, I am working on it every day!! ✌️

nice @blastic

good luck!

1

blastic

Is there a place in PP website where you can find the design files for the arbor press injection machine? i am pretty sure they are not in the download kit

its from plastic hub

6:56 PM

http://www.osr-plastic.org/machines/elena.html#build

Arbor Injection Elena Standard

Overview Build Resources Media This is the most stable, robust, complete, powerful and precise injector in it's class and has been copied many times. ...

6:57 PM

http://files.osr-plastic.org/files/machines/injection/elena/

Also here: https://www.sustainabledesign.studio/arbour-injection-machine

Recycled Plastic Injection Machine — Sustainable Design Studio - Ci...

The perfect low-cost solution to start recycling plastic into useful items at home! Find out more about the new machine from the Sustainable Design Studio.

thankyou for the info

2:34 PM

I am researching for a conic nozzle solution to inject moulds without PP's screw method, which is the right direction to look at? I have found this so far https://shop.aleco.it/it/ugelli-a-reazione/60-112-ugello-a-testa-conica.html

Ugello per spurgo a Testa Conica Ø20mm da 3/8" in Acciaio senza ins...

Ugello per spurgo a Testa Conica Ø20mm da 3/8" in Acciaio senza inserti. Lavaggio e pulizia generale di piccole tubazioni e scarichi domestici, colonne verticali, rimozione di residui oleosi. Ugello per spurgo pozzi e attrezzature spurghisti.

Anyone have the CAD files for the injection molder nozzle? I wanna have an extra to swap out for after my nozzle arrives

pmcd124

Anyone have the CAD files for the injection molder nozzle? I wanna have an extra to swap out for after my nozzle arrives

I'll send you a diagram on your custom nozzle.

CitSciWorkshop

I'll send you a diagram on your custom nozzle.

Perfect thank you dave!

Joostie

Hey guys, I'm looking for people that have build an injection machine! I'm graduating on designing an arbor-based Injection machine, so if you have build either an original or a modified version of the Injection machine, send me a message!

Hey there .... I've built an injector before ... Included some modifications also

CitSciWorkshop

I'll send you a diagram on your custom nozzle.

Can you send me to. Please.

hello i am looking for a flexible coupling for the motor/gearbox junction of PP's Shredder v2.1 (20mm diameter for the gearbox, and i have got to couple to a motor shaft that is 17 mm diameter, 10mm long OR exagonal shaft 25 mm wide, 100 mm long

i am struggling a bit)

ok i think i will settle for this (https://www.amazon.it/sourcing-map-Flessibile-Giunto-Accoppiatore/dp/B09R9JQDCC/ref=sr_1_21?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2TG09IYIGMLOH&keywords=giunto+motore&qid=1649328310&refinements=p_36%3A3000-10000&rnid=2492969031&s=tools&sprefix=giunto+motor%2Caps%2C218&sr=1-21), for now. if in need, i will chose a chain coupling, with custom bored holes

sourcing map Flessibile Giunto Albero da 17mm a 20mm 51mm x 44mm Mo...

Cos'è questo? L'albero di accoppiamento è fatto di acciaio 45#, collegare a servomotore, motore passo-passo, codificatore, guida a vite, piattaforma della macchina adatto, ecc. Cosa riceverò? L'albero di accoppiamento, fornito qui, ha una dimensione di: Diametro foro: da 17mm a 20mm/da 0,67 poll...

12:49 PM

we will see how many N/m it will take

http://www.ilcuscinetto.it/documenti/Comintec/catalogo-giunti-comintec-a-catena-gac.pdf

I wonder if a bicycle gearing can handle the torque required for a nice shredder size ? Thinking about using wind or water energy in a mor direct way.

1:50 PM

Probably old motorbike gearings ?

1:54 PM

Guess with water you can go with a static gearing ratio, since the amount of water is very controllable

Maybe even the Vibration of the Wind Generator Pole could be used for moving plastic towards shredder

(edited)

2:14 PM

If someone of you machine builders is up for that, i will move to a windy location soon

(edited)

2:15 PM

I am experimenting with regenerative energy.

SurfingNerd

I wonder if a bicycle gearing can handle the torque required for a nice shredder size ? Thinking about using wind or water energy in a mor direct way.

Check this magic!!!!

The BIKE shredder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxz3nAcZquY

One Army Community

Make a bike powered plastic shredder #preciousplastic

1

you guys are awesome

blastic

hello i am looking for a flexible coupling for the motor/gearbox junction of PP's Shredder v2.1 (20mm diameter for the gearbox, and i have got to couple to a motor shaft that is 17 mm diameter, 10mm long OR exagonal shaft 25 mm wide, 100 mm long

i am struggling a bit)

Hi @blastic. Not sure I know how to make the couple flexible, but how about using different adapters and swap them out? I found them on http://carrolstream.com/ (search for adapters). It's a US-based company so all the dimensions are inches. They sell sleeves that fit over the smaller diameter shaft (the cutting axle in my case) and come with a key to prevent slipping. Cutting a keyway in the cutting axle was a bit tricky.

Carroll Stream Motor Company : www.carrollstream.com

Carroll Stream Motor Company Imports and Distributes a full range of Small Gasoline Engines and Small Diesel Engines

Hi, I'm about to attempt to build sheetpress in Australia and it appears that we don't have the same RHS available here, for example, I can't find 120x60x3 RHS at AU steelsuppliers. Has anyone got some advice on sourcing materials in Australia? Thanks

BillC

Hi @blastic. Not sure I know how to make the couple flexible, but how about using different adapters and swap them out? I found them on http://carrolstream.com/ (search for adapters). It's a US-based company so all the dimensions are inches. They sell sleeves that fit over the smaller diameter shaft (the cutting axle in my case) and come with a key to prevent slipping. Cutting a keyway in the cutting axle was a bit tricky.

Thankyou interesting solution

Hello everyone!

I have just joined and want to build a basic shredder, one shown in 3.1 vid, however have gone round in circles for hours just trying to find all the drawings and CAD files to build. Not interested in workspaces or business models, just need the details to build the machine. Can some one send me a file link to that please. Thanks Denis

Hey gang, We got an injection machine! Even setting the nozzle temp 20-40 degrees+ we're still getting a clump of completely unmelted plastic chips at the start of each injection we have to chip away at with a screwdriver or whatever we have. Any tips on how to prevent this?

Hi everyone! Looking into building a Shredder Workspace. Should I be converting plans into Imperial to deal with USA materials?

xtina

Hi everyone! Looking into building a Shredder Workspace. Should I be converting plans into Imperial to deal with USA materials?

Yes, unfortunately metric materials are rare and pricey (especially recently) I can help you with files if you need.

CitSciWorkshop

Yes, unfortunately metric materials are rare and pricey (especially recently) I can help you with files if you need.

Ooh, great! Thank you so much!

Anyone building their own 3D moulds - curious to know which brand CNC router you are using?

Are there any machinist who build Plastic Injection Molding machines here in the US? That they would sell?

@wyman PP USA and Citizen Science Workshop do injection machines on the bazar

4:43 PM

bazar.preciousplastic.com (edited)

First time here, hello everyone.

Anyone have information on the extruders and shredders. Wondering how many pounds an hour you can run through on them along with a few other questions. Any help is greatly appreciated

I everyone, I'm currently into the making of a shredder and I was wondering if there is a link for a how-to for the auto-reverse system (and the electronic in general) ? Thanks !

Do you mean this @BBoy https://github.com/davehakkens/shredder-reverse

GitHub - davehakkens/shredder-reverse: code for reverse system on b...

code for reverse system on big shredder. Contribute to davehakkens/shredder-reverse development by creating an account on GitHub.

1

Can you run plastic bags through the shredder effectively?

aridaxya

Do you mean this @BBoy https://github.com/davehakkens/shredder-reverse

Yes, thanks a lot !

Redsamurai

Can you run plastic bags through the shredder effectively?

i woudn't recommend it, it can get tangled between the blades being extremely hard to clean. With machines like the injection machine, you can just put it directly in the barrel without shredding, is there any particular reason why you would like to shred them? (edited)

2

I need to feed it through the extruder so I figured it would need to be shredded

Hi all, could anyone advise some 'purchase-n-plug' motor for the shredder (EU). Thanks in advance.

Does anyone know if there is an imperial converted set of drawings for the PRO models? If not I am considering going through the process of developing a converted version. (edited)

Is there any good way to label my products with for example the HDPE Symbol? I was looking for some stamps that you could hammer in but couldn’t find anything on the internet yet.

Can anyone confirm what the Shredder Pro BOM is based on? I have viewed both the Shredder Solidworks CAD and STEP assembly inside the precious-plastic-kit and am noticing some discrepancies.

gamercon390

Can anyone confirm what the Shredder Pro BOM is based on? I have viewed both the Shredder Solidworks CAD and STEP assembly inside the precious-plastic-kit and am noticing some discrepancies.

The shredder PRO should be aligned with the shredder PRO CAD, but there might be some mistakes. Can you tell me which difference you found ?

Redsamurai

I need to feed it through the extruder so I figured it would need to be shredded

it will be very hard to feed it thorugh the extruder due to its lightweight

I am planning on getting a shredder from precious plastics New York. Can anyone tell me if the version 3 will shred 1 gallon plastic oil jugs? The neck and the bottom are pretty thick. The shredder I’m buying has a 1 1/2 hp motor.

6:03 AM

I am also hoping it can handle the 1 quart oil bottles, I have a ton of them all hdpe.

6:05 AM

Also looking into getting the high production extruder but I need to know how the nozzle works. My plastic blend may have small pieces of paper in it occasionally and I’m hoping that won’t clog it up.

hello does somebody have a program for the PID controller of the extruder (not the pro)

hobbit

hello does somebody have a program for the PID controller of the extruder (not the pro)

What do you mean by program? The PID controller you have likely has an auto-tune to set the P-I-D values, otherwise you can just leave D off and have a pretty workable system depending on how large your heaters are. Otherwise it's just setting a temperature setpoint there's not really a "program" fo rit

hobbit

hello does somebody have a program for the PID controller of the extruder (not the pro)

The Ziegler-Nichols is another good way to set values: https://www.ni.com/en-us/innovations/white-papers/06/pid-theory-explained.html

PID Theory Explained

As the name suggests, PID algorithm consists of three basic coefficients; proportional, integral and derivative which are varied to get optimal response. Closed loop systems, the theory of classical PID and the effects of tuning a closed loop control system are discussed in this paper. The PID toolset in LabVIEW and the ease of use of these VIs ...

Redsamurai

I am planning on getting a shredder from precious plastics New York. Can anyone tell me if the version 3 will shred 1 gallon plastic oil jugs? The neck and the bottom are pretty thick. The shredder I’m buying has a 1 1/2 hp motor.

Have other people had success using oil bottles? I know locally they aren't recyclable since the oil residue inside gets on everything (IE: they can't be fully cleaned)

I honestly don’t know but my idea can use them

waterppk

The Ziegler-Nichols is another good way to set values: https://www.ni.com/en-us/innovations/white-papers/06/pid-theory-explained.html

thank you very much i'm a newbie so i lack in some basic things,

Hi, excuse me. Could anyone recommend me a gas mask to safety during the remelt? I just know that 3M masks are cool, but I don't have any code o model

NandoFer

Hi, excuse me. Could anyone recommend me a gas mask to safety during the remelt? I just know that 3M masks are cool, but I don't have any code o model

You'll want something designed for organic vapors (charcoal inside), something like a 3M 60923, 6001 , etc should be good

waterppk

You'll want something designed for organic vapors (charcoal inside), something like a 3M 60923, 6001 , etc should be good

thanks

Hi ! im new here, where can i get the Blueprints for Extruder PRO? Thanks !

NandoFer

Hi, excuse me. Could anyone recommend me a gas mask to safety during the remelt? I just know that 3M masks are cool, but I don't have any code o model

we use 3M masks with ABEK1 filter. To learn more about safety and fumes visit the academy

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety

Hi there, I was wondering if anyone can help me out with some information about injector extruder machines that are transportable and safe to take into schools, any feedback or links would be great, also do these have to be certified for school use?

Carolina

we use 3M masks with ABEK1 filter. To learn more about safety and fumes visit the academy

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety

Those look like they'll cover the bases no matter what you're doing, that's an excellent option

1

Hi! Has anyone successfully vacuum heat pressed a recycled sheet of plastic? (I am thinking of sheets made in the PP sheet press) (edited)

They would need to be thinner than any most people make, but it should be possible.

1

Si Mo Ne

Hi! Has anyone successfully vacuum heat pressed a recycled sheet of plastic? (I am thinking of sheets made in the PP sheet press) (edited)

We've cut 2 liter soda bottles and used the sheet for vacuum forming stock directly it worked well

1

waterppk

We've cut 2 liter soda bottles and used the sheet for vacuum forming stock directly it worked well

Great advice! Do you have some photos of how you did it? I would love some hints as to how things went down! ie. what machine you used and how ‘tall’ you were able to bend them.

Si Mo Ne

Great advice! Do you have some photos of how you did it? I would love some hints as to how things went down! ie. what machine you used and how ‘tall’ you were able to bend them.

We have a tiny "Dental Vacuum Former", they're small but a lot of fun for portable demos: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252386885949

US Dental Lab Equipment Vacuum Forming Molding Machine Former Heat ...

Vacuum Forming Machine is specially designed for dental applications. Durable and user-friendly, our Vacuum Forming Machine will withstand years of rigorous use and prove to be an indispensable tool for any dental office.

Si Mo Ne

Great advice! Do you have some photos of how you did it? I would love some hints as to how things went down! ie. what machine you used and how ‘tall’ you were able to bend them.

As far as how deep can you draw, this book has the best information I've ever found on thermoforming/vaccum forming: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/8897795/thermoforming-manual-and-trouble-shooting-guide it used to be easier to download as a PDF, I have a local copy if anyone wants to rehost it

THERMOFORMING MANUAL and TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE

Hi guys, need a supplier of the v4 extrusion screw. I am down to my last unit in stock. My supplier in China is under lock-down and no word when or if ever will have any supply available as the city is at present full of starving people. Local manufacture is not practical as the local shops are asking in excess of 1000usd for the screws.

Greetings, my name is Andrés. I am a student of Electronic Engineering, I have to carry out a project at the university and since I saw the videos of the extruder I had it as a pending project for a long time. Now that I have to carry out this project at the university, I want to take advantage of it to carry it out. The point is that I wanted to get the mechanical parts of the plastic shredder and the extruder since my project would consist of designing an electronic PCB with a PIC microcontroller to control the 2 pieces of equipment, a couple of weeks ago I made a quote with a local mechanical supplier in my city for the realization of the mechanical parts, but it seemed a bit expensive for a prototype of an academic project, for what I wanted to know if it is not better for me to buy the equipment already made from the Bazar of the precious plastic page, my location is in Guayaquil-Ecuador (I would only need the mechanical parts of the equipment since the motors and all the control I would get it locally and put it together myself, so that would be part of my project to present at the University), if anyone can help me with any information, I thank you very much.

Hello, how do I get hold of the blue print to make the shredder pro. Thanks.

DP16JHI

Hello, how do I get hold of the blue print to make the shredder pro. Thanks.

Hi you can find the blueprints in the download kit https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Hi guys, need a supplier of the v4 extrusion screw. I am down to my last unit in stock. My supplier in China is under lock-down and no word when or if ever will have any supply available as the city is at present full of starving people. Local manufacture is not practical as the local shops are asking in excess of 1000usd for the screws.

Is it robotdigg?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Hi guys, need a supplier of the v4 extrusion screw. I am down to my last unit in stock. My supplier in China is under lock-down and no word when or if ever will have any supply available as the city is at present full of starving people. Local manufacture is not practical as the local shops are asking in excess of 1000usd for the screws.

A friend last sold one for 3,500,00IDR/12,690PHP/242USD located here in Indonesia, material is equivalent to scm440. No idea what it takes to ship from here to there.

Joseph

Is it robotdigg?

that was going to be my suggestion.

I have a feeling it is...they are in shanghai

Has anybody had a conversation about creating a Shredder 3.3 based off of the wikifactory supplied documents? I just sat down with a team of undergrads here at Arizona State University, and we were struggling to design our own electrical setup based on the BOM and schematic alone. I'm not an EE so I was no help.

TEglen

Has anybody had a conversation about creating a Shredder 3.3 based off of the wikifactory supplied documents? I just sat down with a team of undergrads here at Arizona State University, and we were struggling to design our own electrical setup based on the BOM and schematic alone. I'm not an EE so I was no help.

We will release soon the 3.3 version, but overall it is very similar to the 3.2 already released on WF. You can modify ay of these version as you want to adapt them to your context (already in the US, you will need to do some slight conversion to US imperial available materials). What is your main problem to design your own electrical setup ? I am not expert in US electricity standard, but most of it will depend on the motor type you want to install and your building electric capacity (110V / split phase / three phase).

1

Thanks, got it

Hey people! we are releasing a new model of the extruder pro, and will have a public meeting to explain the thinking behind it. Make sure to mark "interested" if you want to be there ! https://discord.gg/dBM2W2t6?event=968169167712845885

6

2

https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcSJAVKv6y8QOYFetaslBwlShP3B6b9Z01MraqFmVLTbgM#/space/gcrSkUc00TRtifrE_-QUmAUmKepF_-m6F9FoN5O_Texze-/link/3054280

GrabCAD

The GrabCAD platform drives additive manufacturing at scale through connected solutions, including GrabCAD Print, GrabCAD Shop & the GrabCAD SDKs.

acintron

Hello Everyone, Shedder Question here: May I ask if anyone knows the proper combination for the motor and the reduction gear to shred HDPE, PET and the most common plastics. Thanks for sharing.

Im guessing it depends on the shredder, but I was recommended a motor of higher than 2.2 kw or 3 hp with a gear box ratio of 1:30 for the Shredder Box Kit XL

Hi People! Quick question (maybe it extends into a longer discussion!) Anybody used the extruder with extras added to the plastic? Sand..? as per this video, 1:27 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k55UR4ykaeQ I have been invited to help I+D to try and make some brick type with recycled plastic, and what I have found online obviously uses much large extruders, but during the first testing phase, to try and find the right mixture and do tests with proper testing machines on these mixtures, we wish to use a V4 Extruder.. I know that the sand will destroy the tube earlier of later, but this is not a problem during the initial I+D phase, just would like to know if anyone else has already tried it and can aport their experience..?

Mihir Kamani

Edison Manufacturing Unit (Plastic Waste Paver Blocks)

1:56 PM

Thanks!

waterppk

Have other people had success using oil bottles? I know locally they aren't recyclable since the oil residue inside gets on everything (IE: they can't be fully cleaned)

I melted some motor oil bottles. I leave them to drip every oil, then I cut in 4 pieces, I clean with a rag and then I put them in the washing machine like the other plastic I collect. Since I collect a lot of metalworking tool boxes (I'm a metalworker, I pick them up at job) I had to deep clean a lot of it. After washing there aren't any trace of oil. I'm speaking about mineral/synthetic oil, not cooking one. The cooking oil can be a lot difficult to remove, since it have the tendency to polimerize after a while (time varies depending on what oil is, some polymerize fast, some a lot slowly). If it is polymerized, a mix of water and baking soda + some brush work help to remove it.

3

1

I do a lot of motoroil-bottles (5 litres). I also let them drip out at first, than i cut in two halves and than i clean the inside with just water, soap and a sponge and i let dry. Works good.

renario

Is there any good way to label my products with for example the HDPE Symbol? I was looking for some stamps that you could hammer in but couldn’t find anything on the internet yet.

I am wondering the same thing. I did see somewhere that someone was using a heated paperclip formed in a triangle or the number of the plastic. They just pressed these heated wires in to make the mark. I'm thinking I'll try that first. Otherwise, there are places that make custom coins, and I'm thinking I could ask them to make me coins with the exact image I want. Again, it would be a matter of heating and pressing these images in. Curious if anyone's got a better system.

5:18 PM

#archived-machines I am trying to get my injection machine up and running, but need a vent hood. My first attempt was a complete failure, resulting in melted tape down the barrel. Anyone have a good design for this?

Hi everyone, I'm building the basic extrusion machine and I'm a bit confused with the instructions to choose the proper motor: can anyone clarify the minimum requirements? From here https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusion I understand that the motor should supply 1.5kW , power, 109 Nm torque at 40-140rpm , at minimum. While from here https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/the-big-electronics-topic/ I found that 300 W should do. Which specs are you using ?

@Bel From my experience 300W looks like a typo. As 0.3kw is really not enough at all.

4:44 PM

1.5kw is the requirement

I'm looking to shred PLA, I have the ability to machine Aluminum. Has anyone tried to make the shredder out of aluminum?

MrLee

I'm looking to shred PLA, I have the ability to machine Aluminum. Has anyone tried to make the shredder out of aluminum?

Anything should work but it's all in how fast it'll wear out. Maybe you could get steel tips for the blades?

1

MrLee

I'm looking to shred PLA, I have the ability to machine Aluminum. Has anyone tried to make the shredder out of aluminum?

Also from my experience of working with PLA in a shredder at Precious Plastic Monash, using offcuts from 3D printing, PLA would jam the shredder often. We were running the shredder for a long time and caused the blades to heat up and slightly melt PLA and cause it to jam. The experience from my time, could be the build that we had (edited)

1

Hugh

Also from my experience of working with PLA in a shredder at Precious Plastic Monash, using offcuts from 3D printing, PLA would jam the shredder often. We were running the shredder for a long time and caused the blades to heat up and slightly melt PLA and cause it to jam. The experience from my time, could be the build that we had (edited)

Because the 3D prints are more solid parts than thinwall bottles it probably makes sense to reduce the "bite" of the blades so they're slower at shredding but only taking small chips off instead

waterppk

Because the 3D prints are more solid parts than thinwall bottles it probably makes sense to reduce the "bite" of the blades so they're slower at shredding but only taking small chips off instead

and we really pushed our shredder a bit too hard thats for sure

Hugh

and we really pushed our shredder a bit too hard thats for sure

Sounds like you just need a bigger motor

waterppk

Sounds like you just need a bigger motor

yeah we used a single phase low powered motor so that we could easily take it to schools and plug in and go anywhere. The unit we built was for event purposes so not the best for larger production

MrLee

I'm looking to shred PLA, I have the ability to machine Aluminum. Has anyone tried to make the shredder out of aluminum?

I wonder if you could make an aluminum version but build it to run carbide inserts from a lathe for the blade tips?

1

As I read the responses and think about it more, the biggest problem would be stripping the hex hole. I have had Al blades rip out a press fitted keyway.

Hugh

yeah we used a single phase low powered motor so that we could easily take it to schools and plug in and go anywhere. The unit we built was for event purposes so not the best for larger production

I have a fair number of 120V single phase -> 240V three phase variable frequency drives, they draw ~15A 120V peak and generate 1.5HP 3 phase variable frequency (speed) output, I don't know how well they'd perform at high loads like a shredder duty cycle

MrLee

As I read the responses and think about it more, the biggest problem would be stripping the hex hole. I have had Al blades rip out a press fitted keyway.

You could use shear pins like a snowblower blade that intentionally fail if you go over load, that or put a clutch or some kind of shear coupling on the motor input so if you jam it just takes out an easy to replace component

1

waterppk

I have a fair number of 120V single phase -> 240V three phase variable frequency drives, they draw ~15A 120V peak and generate 1.5HP 3 phase variable frequency (speed) output, I don't know how well they'd perform at high loads like a shredder duty cycle

couldnt tell you the motor specs since it was almost 3 years ago since i was there haha

waterppk

You could use shear pins like a snowblower blade that intentionally fail if you go over load, that or put a clutch or some kind of shear coupling on the motor input so if you jam it just takes out an easy to replace component

The idea of the coupling to the motor failing under high load is a great idea, make it easy to replace or reset.

MrLee

The idea of the coupling to the motor failing under high load is a great idea, make it easy to replace or reset.

for smaller machines using a piece of rubber tubing and hose clamps on both ends is a very cheap way but I don't know that's really feasible here

waterppk

for smaller machines using a piece of rubber tubing and hose clamps on both ends is a very cheap way but I don't know that's really feasible here

No, I teach robotics, and we invested in a Filastruder to recycle PLA. Tried a paper shredder, but it's not quite enough. We will probably use this recycle setup a few times a year, but it could be a great teachable project for the kids.

Hi, I am trying to build the extruder . not the pro, but the basic one. can some one direct me to the BOM and build files? the starter kit has the pro plan, but not the basic

hello, I need to make the oven connections. to connect the resistors (ie the heating parts) which wire should I use? in the ovens at home I have found that there are "silicone" threads advice?

11:32 AM

ciao, devo fare i collegamenti del forno. per collegare le resistenze (cioé le parti riscaldanti) che filo devo usare? nei forni di casa ho busto che ci sono dei fili"siliconici" consigli?

thinktank1984

Hi, I am trying to build the extruder . not the pro, but the basic one. can some one direct me to the BOM and build files? the starter kit has the pro plan, but not the basic

You can find them here, either in the FULL DOWNLOAD KIT V4 or in the MIX WORKSPACE

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download (edited)

1

Hi ONE ARMY - I am about to setting up a recycling shop here in Rhein Main Area (Frankfurt Wiesbaden Mainz) in Germany. I am looking for a company which has already built the SHREDDER PRO and is able to build another. Any suggestions?

Deleted User

Hi ONE ARMY - I am about to setting up a recycling shop here in Rhein Main Area (Frankfurt Wiesbaden Mainz) in Germany. I am looking for a company which has already built the SHREDDER PRO and is able to build another. Any suggestions?

Hi there, check out bazar.preciousplastic.com for suppliers

Thanks, Joseph - I have been looking for suppliers on the website first, but wasnt very successful

I was looking in vane for the build plans of the Shredder Pro, but I cant find them also. Are they removed from the page?

@Deleted User https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

@Joseph thanks - thats exactly what I need! Thanks alot!!!

Okay found it: Its in the "DOWNLOAD-KIT V4"

hi guys , respect for this comunity you made. i have a question which one is better the shredder or the shredder pro, if i want to shred plastic foil of 600microns thanks in advance

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

@Bel From my experience 300W looks like a typo. As 0.3kw is really not enough at all.

thanks

Hello builders! Few bits of information regarding the Extruder Pro 1.2 release event

️ If you haven't yet, please mark "interested" on the event: https://discord.gg/duc7SbDV?event=968169167712845885 Day/Time: May 12th, 4pm CET Moderator: @Joseph Presenter: @Carolina Technician: @Mattia Agenda topics:

Intro and housekeeping

CE Certification

Precious Plastic Design Guidelines

New Documentation

Community Questions/discussion We will open a meeting-chat event during the event ! See you there

(edited)

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1

Hi, I would like to build it with the motor upsidedonw, I means under the table plate, this is better if the device needs to be moved from place. There is any issue in just turn it 180° to the bottom? Surelly any support below the motor needs to be there right? Thansk a lot!

Lixeiro

Hi, I would like to build it with the motor upsidedonw, I means under the table plate, this is better if the device needs to be moved from place. There is any issue in just turn it 180° to the bottom? Surelly any support below the motor needs to be there right? Thansk a lot!

Some motor have recommendation on how they should be installed (horizontally, vertical down, vertical up), but for most of them, it is not an issue, check the documentation of your motor first. Then, if you put it under the frame, there is different attachment on the gearbox allowing you to rotate it. There is no need to extra support the motor (I would even say you shouldn't add a support, to not create over constrain structure) The gearbox is bolted to your frame, and the motor to the gearbox. You will surely need to modify the frame though, depending if you want everything under, or only the motor. Assembling everything upside down is also a bit more difficult, and less easy to access for maintenance, but fully doable.

Andymid

Hi People! Quick question (maybe it extends into a longer discussion!) Anybody used the extruder with extras added to the plastic? Sand..? as per this video, 1:27 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k55UR4ykaeQ I have been invited to help I+D to try and make some brick type with recycled plastic, and what I have found online obviously uses much large extruders, but during the first testing phase, to try and find the right mixture and do tests with proper testing machines on these mixtures, we wish to use a V4 Extruder.. I know that the sand will destroy the tube earlier of later, but this is not a problem during the initial I+D phase, just would like to know if anyone else has already tried it and can aport their experience..?

I've used the extrusion without the upgraded (compression) screw to extrude a sand/plastic mix. I maybe extruded only 2kg of plastic mix with the sand. Also I had a strange request to mix coffee grinds with plastic. I think better to compost coffee grinds instead of mixing it with plastic crap.

MrLee

I'm looking to shred PLA, I have the ability to machine Aluminum. Has anyone tried to make the shredder out of aluminum?

Don't make a shredder out of aluminum. Aluminum is not durable enough to handle shredding. Some folks in Cambodia tried this and simply put, it's not worth it since it's not durable enough. I have successfully shredded PLA but it requires some patience since the plastic will melt a bit and get stuck in your shredder box. To resolve this there are a few options like running water through the shredder as it's shredding or limit your shredding times so the parts dont get hot enough to start melting the PLA (edited)

I'm considering building a shredder to deal with the ongoing recycling of ABS hard plastic computer casings. The website info suggests an electric motor of 2.2 kw capacity downgraded to 70rpm. Will this do the job, or is a bigger macine required?

WCMSplastic

I'm considering building a shredder to deal with the ongoing recycling of ABS hard plastic computer casings. The website info suggests an electric motor of 2.2 kw capacity downgraded to 70rpm. Will this do the job, or is a bigger macine required?

For ABS chassis and casings you'll want a minimum of 4kw and a high power helical bevel gearbox, 2500nm+ mechanical output torque. A single shaft granulator will probably work better than a dual axle as well.

1

Joseph

Hello builders! Few bits of information regarding the Extruder Pro 1.2 release event

️ If you haven't yet, please mark "interested" on the event: https://discord.gg/duc7SbDV?event=968169167712845885 Day/Time: May 12th, 4pm CET Moderator: @Joseph Presenter: @Carolina Technician: @Mattia Agenda topics:

Intro and housekeeping

CE Certification

Precious Plastic Design Guidelines

New Documentation

Community Questions/discussion We will open a meeting-chat event during the event ! See you there

(edited)

anyone taking notes @Joseph ?

CitSciWorkshop

For ABS chassis and casings you'll want a minimum of 4kw and a high power helical bevel gearbox, 2500nm+ mechanical output torque. A single shaft granulator will probably work better than a dual axle as well.

Thanks for the prompot response and the info - much appreciated !

Yann

Some motor have recommendation on how they should be installed (horizontally, vertical down, vertical up), but for most of them, it is not an issue, check the documentation of your motor first. Then, if you put it under the frame, there is different attachment on the gearbox allowing you to rotate it. There is no need to extra support the motor (I would even say you shouldn't add a support, to not create over constrain structure) The gearbox is bolted to your frame, and the motor to the gearbox. You will surely need to modify the frame though, depending if you want everything under, or only the motor. Assembling everything upside down is also a bit more difficult, and less easy to access for maintenance, but fully doable.

awesome! thanks for all explanation!

Hi all, how big of an object can the injection machines make?

6:20 PM

I have an object that I think is on the large end for these machines. Each object is about 70-80g (PET), Vol: 60x80x55 is it too big?

6:21 PM

A related question I had was about the pressure/force required to make the object, and if the machine+me could produce that force (edited)

Hi Peeps! I am building the Shredder Pro V4 machine, and having a hard time getting locally EXACTLY the right electronics components, so I would like to know how important is it that the specs are as-is the BoM..? This is what I have been offered that is DIFFERENT from the BoM: Condensador electrolítico 50V 100uF radial - BoM says 10V Sensor de corriente alta precisión GY-INA219 GY-219 i2C - BoM says ACS712 30A hall effect sensor Condensador electrolítico 63V 2200uF - BoM says 10V Rectificador Puente de diodos DB207 DIP-4 2A 1000V - BoM says 1A, no idea about voltage So I don't know enough about circuits to know if these differences will, well, make a difference..? (edited)

Andymid

Hi Peeps! I am building the Shredder Pro V4 machine, and having a hard time getting locally EXACTLY the right electronics components, so I would like to know how important is it that the specs are as-is the BoM..? This is what I have been offered that is DIFFERENT from the BoM: Condensador electrolítico 50V 100uF radial - BoM says 10V Sensor de corriente alta precisión GY-INA219 GY-219 i2C - BoM says ACS712 30A hall effect sensor Condensador electrolítico 63V 2200uF - BoM says 10V Rectificador Puente de diodos DB207 DIP-4 2A 1000V - BoM says 1A, no idea about voltage So I don't know enough about circuits to know if these differences will, well, make a difference..? (edited)

Capacitors with 10V means basically that the capacitor can be used with voltages up to 10V. You can use those capacitors with higher voltage specs, that's no issue at all. Usually circuits rather require a specific amount or range of voltage that the power source needs to match and then there is rather a minimum requirement for the current (ampere) to work properly. So having more ampere is usually fine. But there may be exceptions (leds for example are rather controlled via a fixed current), so let's maybe wait for someone else to confirm that higher current does not matter here

1

waterppk

Because the 3D prints are more solid parts than thinwall bottles it probably makes sense to reduce the "bite" of the blades so they're slower at shredding but only taking small chips off instead

The main issue is that blades are too spaced between eachoter, so the plastic goes between them, causing friction, resulting in heat build. If the plastic has a low melting point, it start to melt and stuck the shredder. This is the main problem I see, and the reason because I decided to make a diferent concept of shredder... In next months I try to finish it, but probably it is too expensive for the community (blades and shaft are made from a solid bar, on a lathe with live tooling equipment).

1

waterppk

I wonder if you could make an aluminum version but build it to run carbide inserts from a lathe for the blade tips?

carbide inserts need precise seats to be able to work without breaking, and aluminum is not the right material, it would deform too easily.

1

MrLee

The idea of the coupling to the motor failing under high load is a great idea, make it easy to replace or reset.

About any decent quality VFD have the option to stop the motor if overloaded. You can set it on the parameters. I'm running mine with the 100% current limit, for example. So, when the nominal current of the motor is reached during shredding, it reduce the frequency, and the speed, to keep it in the limit. If reaching 0.5Hz the current is at the maximum, it stops.

1

Hello everyone, my name is Ricardo, I am an industrial designer in Guatemala. I am currently considering opening a small plastic factory. I had a question for all experts... it is more profitable to buy machines from China. or to manufacture the classic machines to work the plastic? I currently have a small capital to invest but I would like to know based on your experience what is better in terms of efficiency and costs?

11:33 PM

If someone had time I would be extremely grateful if you could send me a message to the private chat to talk.

MonoIngles

Hello everyone, my name is Ricardo, I am an industrial designer in Guatemala. I am currently considering opening a small plastic factory. I had a question for all experts... it is more profitable to buy machines from China. or to manufacture the classic machines to work the plastic? I currently have a small capital to invest but I would like to know based on your experience what is better in terms of efficiency and costs?

I am not an "expert" but as far as quality goes, if you build it yourself, you will know how it works, therefore it will be easier to fix. I am guessing the PP are going to be more quality than ones from China, but I could be wrong!

1

Does anyone have a design for a bottle jack press ?

Lixeiro

awesome! thanks for all explanation!

@Lixeiro I'm guessing the gearbox is the bigger issue than the motor as the level of oil needed in the gearbox may change depending on the orientation. I use a rt angle worm gear box and the specs said it should not be used facing down (the flange facing to the floor). I think this is what you were describing, right? But I'll bet you can find one with the right specs for the design.

How hard and/or expensive would it be to create a machine to be able to injection mold HDPE into objects like lacrosse heads?

Hi all, I am looking for some help. Is it possible to "fix" this without wielding it? Thanks in advance.

RKeyQQ

Hi all, I am looking for some help. Is it possible to "fix" this without wielding it? Thanks in advance.

Yes. You need an adapter. A tube shaped part, with the 20mm+key on one side, and on the other side a 20.8 hole (the diagonal of the hexagon) + a centering diameter (the one on the end of the hex part), and at least three M10 holes at 120° on the side, to lock the hexagon part in the adapter with 3 screw. (edited)

@Joseph extruder 1.2 event

RKeyQQ

Hi all, I am looking for some help. Is it possible to "fix" this without wielding it? Thanks in advance.

you do not weld that, you need a flex coupler. you will have to open the gearbox, and using a snap ring pliers remove the snap ring holding the shaft in place. you then will need to have the shafting cut and turned to 18mm round with a key, and a matching 18mm chain flex coupler. then reassemble with the modified shaft. The other side you need a machined 20mm hole and matching key with your chain flex coupler. it will look like this.

9:25 AM

our biggest extrusion yet. 1250mm x 30mm screw, 3hp mitsubishi 3 phase motor, delta inverter, 3200 watts heaters. barrel is custom made 4140 steel with 50mm OD. Pic is from this morning. It is now wired and we started testing. However unable to autotune the PID as lack of room means working outside, and it started to rain. Hopper is almost done, sheet metal covering mostly done. We should be testing it tomorrow although some safety covers remain to be fabricated and installed.

3

9:28 AM

you can see we used a flex coupler to connect the screw to the drive shaft. we use belt/pulley and chain/sprocket to reduce the speed vs a gearbox or gear motor. Had too many problems in the past with gearbox failures, and this is the most economical method to reduce the speed. belt is installed now. this is the nicest extrusion machine we have built so far.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Yes. You need an adapter. A tube shaped part, with the 20mm+key on one side, and on the other side a 20.8 hole (the diagonal of the hexagon) + a centering diameter (the one on the end of the hex part), and at least three M10 holes at 120° on the side, to lock the hexagon part in the adapter with 3 screw. (edited)

Is it possible to stock somewhere? trying to 3d print at the moment, just for fun, not sure ABS would keep parts tight

Butte (PP Philippines)

you do not weld that, you need a flex coupler. you will have to open the gearbox, and using a snap ring pliers remove the snap ring holding the shaft in place. you then will need to have the shafting cut and turned to 18mm round with a key, and a matching 18mm chain flex coupler. then reassemble with the modified shaft. The other side you need a machined 20mm hole and matching key with your chain flex coupler. it will look like this.

I do not have any tool to do that at home, unfortunately. But anyway, why chain flex coupler (would it allow to use of 20mm on the one side and 18 on the other)? (edited)

9:41 AM

I also thought to order somewhere aluminum cnc custom part... a pretty simple model though

RKeyQQ

Is it possible to stock somewhere? trying to 3d print at the moment, just for fun, not sure ABS would keep parts tight

Thst coupler have to be made from steel.

1

@RKeyQQ From which country do you come? I could make such a needed part but the question is what is the shipping cost

BillC

@Lixeiro I'm guessing the gearbox is the bigger issue than the motor as the level of oil needed in the gearbox may change depending on the orientation. I use a rt angle worm gear box and the specs said it should not be used facing down (the flange facing to the floor). I think this is what you were describing, right? But I'll bet you can find one with the right specs for the design.

Him thankyou, this is very important information!

MonoIngles

If someone had time I would be extremely grateful if you could send me a message to the private chat to talk.

Hi, there are disadvantages to getting the Chinese machines, but price some advantages to like the costs. I shredder i.e cost must less and operates much faster, at least the one I used in Vietnam. But is another blade design that needs to be sharped much more often than the PP. As well is way louder too! This can be an important detail. Extruders I didn´t find any cheaper, in case you find let me know, I m curious too. Injection mould you can forget, this need to be built, at least I didn't find any, Sheet Press is another history, there are many options, but this you will need to research. Make sure you consider the energy usage/costs in comparison to PP machines.

Hi! Had someone made the injection machine designed for disassembly? How reliable and stable is it in comparison with the traditional injection machine?

For us it was very reliable, we have a piece of plywood as a base, if atached would be better ofc, if not atached to anything is a very interesting machine. As the main investment goes to laser parts, having a nice smooth barrel would be suitable

b.asuazo

Hi! Had someone made the injection machine designed for disassembly? How reliable and stable is it in comparison with the traditional injection machine?

yes we do! we shared one in the how tos already but we will soon going to share a new iteration

Hi guys, im from Belgium and would like to buy a shredder machine. Can anybody help me here ?

jensdb

Hi guys, im from Belgium and would like to buy a shredder machine. Can anybody help me here ?

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/

Precious Plastic Machines

Hi Peoples! I am building for first time the Shredder Por V4, and am having some trouble understanding the Circuit Diagram, specifically to connect the Relay board to the Arduino... AFAIK, these 2-realy boards have 2 input pins, one for each relay, and the output I see clearly both relays are connected, but the input has only one wire that goes to the Arduino..? I see from the arduino code that I think this is "directionPin = 3" so the relay board is only connected from pin D3 on the Arduino to the relay..? there are not 2 pins, one for each of the relays?

2:10 PM

2:11 PM

the pink line seems to go in between the 2 input pins on the relay board...?

2:12 PM

Also, quick comment, there seems to be absolutely no visual indication in the download of where any of the wires are connected, all this info I am extracting from the code:

2:12 PM

const int shredButton = 7; // the number of the pin that registers if you want the machine to shred const int reverseButton = 6; // the number of the pin that registers if you want the machine to reverse const int motionPin = 4; // the number of the pin that decides if the motor turns const int directionPin = 3; // the number of the pin that decides the driection of the motor const int measurePin = A0; // this pin has a hall sensor connected to it that measures the output current to the motor

2:14 PM

and still I don't understand what goes connected to pin 4...?

2:14 PM

Also, the file Arduino Graphic Circuit Diagram.ai seems to be blank?

Andymid

const int shredButton = 7; // the number of the pin that registers if you want the machine to shred const int reverseButton = 6; // the number of the pin that registers if you want the machine to reverse const int motionPin = 4; // the number of the pin that decides if the motor turns const int directionPin = 3; // the number of the pin that decides the driection of the motor const int measurePin = A0; // this pin has a hall sensor connected to it that measures the output current to the motor

3 position switch in "left" position goes to pin 7, in "right" position to pin 6... maybe when is "center" position is goes to pin 4..? I see 3 wires come from this switch... edit: revised I see now that the green and orange wires are input to pins 6 and 7, the red wire is +5V (edited)

Andymid

const int shredButton = 7; // the number of the pin that registers if you want the machine to shred const int reverseButton = 6; // the number of the pin that registers if you want the machine to reverse const int motionPin = 4; // the number of the pin that decides if the motor turns const int directionPin = 3; // the number of the pin that decides the driection of the motor const int measurePin = A0; // this pin has a hall sensor connected to it that measures the output current to the motor

Hall sensor signal goes to pin A0, and the relay goes to pin 3.. but does it go to both IN1 and IN2 on the relay board?

OK, after consulting with various people, I get it now (but I consider that this schematic should be explained somewhere to make things clearer): Pin 4 goes to IN1 on the relay, Relay1, and when HIGH sends current to Relay 2, when low sends no current and so motor does not move Pin 3 goes to IN2 on the relay, Relay2 when HIGH moves motor in one direction, and when LOW moves motor in other direction So there ARE 2 wires going from Arduino to Relay board... this is not at all clear from the actual diagrams (edited)

hey so, is it normal that I’ve already replaced 6 heater bands on my injector so far

4:06 AM

it seems like they last like two uses before failing

Rai

hey so, is it normal that I’ve already replaced 6 heater bands on my injector so far

Maybe the temp sensor is misreading the temperature cooler than it should and the bands are overheating? I dont think replacing 6 heater bands is "normal"

Rai

hey so, is it normal that I’ve already replaced 6 heater bands on my injector so far

Maybe wrong voltage?

Hey Peeps! Back with the Shredder V4 elcetronics Schema again! So don't understand the way should wire the hall/current sensor.. I understand that it is wired with bridge rectifier, capacitor and resistance to filter and change signal to one polarity, but which side of the sensor is all this connected to?

11:52 AM

in between the 2 cables coming from contactor/going to the motor? or in serie on one side of them..?

11:53 AM

however, in the first image the 5v and GND are obviously for the sensor Arduino side, so maybe these components go on that side, and really are filtering and changing the signal coming from the sensor?

11:56 AM

in which case, the bridge rectifier, capacitor and resistance should all also have 5v and be in parallel with the sensor 5v and GND? But then how do they filter the output signal of the sensor...? I think the 3rd wire coming out of the sensor block and entering into the bridge rectifier via the left hand "S" symbol might be the signal, but then this signal seem to come out of the bridge rectifier via the other "S" symbol and then goes to GND? When it should go to A0 on the Arduino??

I need a shredder machine. I have been hand shredding jugs and it’s taking forever

Hello guys I’ve got a shredder and I need a little help. It’s something about the gap between the blades. Someone is available?

9:17 AM

9:18 AM

Is it or or not ? It should not have such a big gap ? Or it doesn’t matter ?

No, it shouldn't. I remember when i built mine i had the problem that the axle wasn't perfectly machined. There was some material left between the hex-part and the round part which led to a too big distance of the side plates.

9:35 AM

I had to file a bit to get it to work.

Andymid

in which case, the bridge rectifier, capacitor and resistance should all also have 5v and be in parallel with the sensor 5v and GND? But then how do they filter the output signal of the sensor...? I think the 3rd wire coming out of the sensor block and entering into the bridge rectifier via the left hand "S" symbol might be the signal, but then this signal seem to come out of the bridge rectifier via the other "S" symbol and then goes to GND? When it should go to A0 on the Arduino??

I agree, its kinda odd and for me , doesn't even make sense. The X-thing in the first image is the ACS712 sensor module. The chip has already a filter inside which needs just one small capacitor but which is already on the board (edited)

MYCK

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Did you add enough shims to the end of the "stack" when mounting all the blades?

12:25 PM

also, there were 2 rubber shims that also have to fit over the end shims... one time I didn't fit them properly and had some looseness, but once positioned properly, are compressed on fitting everything together..

Next thing is, that acs712 outputs DC, so why a rectifier and the C and R are not even connected to one side??? The out of the sensor should go straight to the Analog input, it's done for that. (edited)

12:29 PM

Another weird thing in the schematics is that 5V is connected to V-IN, but V-IN needs at least 7V (7 - 12V) to work. If you use 5V as the power supply, it needs to go on the 5V pin of the arduino.

@MYCK the bearings should squeeze the Blades little bit together. Maybe the hex is Not turned down enough. You can try to put small spacers on

Thank you guys for your reply. I have just delete the last hex. And it has perfectly fit. I think it’s the size of the last one that create a little gap.

4:37 PM

I’ll show you a picture tomorrow. I was wondering if there is an other new shredder version ? Cause I have a old one.

MYCK

I’ll show you a picture tomorrow. I was wondering if there is an other new shredder version ? Cause I have a old one.

The latest version, 3.3 is here https://wikifactory.com/@precious-plastic/shredder-basic-33

CitSciWorkshop

The latest version, 3.3 is here https://wikifactory.com/@precious-plastic/shredder-basic-33

Thanks you very much for the information!

Have a great one!

likewise!

https://youtu.be/0Yu7Hd3XtCc My shredder at work

Dragon Atelier

My shredder at work

@Yann The BOM document lists the motor for the Shredder Pro as "Motor 3kW - 1370RPM - 400V - IE3" Are there any other specifications to be aware of? I ask because our team is in the US and a quick google search shows us prices that significantly lower than the 650 euro/700 USD price. I wasn't sure if this type of motor just happens to be cheaper here or if we're missing else.

One thing to consider is the Duty Cycle, which should be S1 (continuous). Some motors, for example hoist motors, have a duty cycle S2, which is not meant for continuous operation. https://www.kebamerica.com/blog/4-types-of-motor-duty-cycles-every-engineer-should-know/

4 Types of Motor Duty Cycles Every Engineer Should Know

Discover the 4 main motor duty cycles to consider when selecting a motor for your application to ensure the motor can meet the needs of your machine.

3

1

Guys just a small question. Where can I find the latest version of the machine blueprints? On the official PP site the zipped files go until V2.0. Thanks a lot!

Smilton

Guys just a small question. Where can I find the latest version of the machine blueprints? On the official PP site the zipped files go until V2.0. Thanks a lot!

You can also find them here : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to

4:26 PM

All the last drawings are not out yet, but it is coming.

Yann

You can also find them here : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to

Thank you very much Yann. Looking forward for that!!

Smilton

Thank you very much Yann. Looking forward for that!!

we already released the new model of the SHRPRO 2.0 and EXTPRO 1.2

1

Has anyone here gotten a successful delivery of extrusion screw from Robot Digg since the Shanghai lockdown?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Has anyone here gotten a successful delivery of extrusion screw from Robot Digg since the Shanghai lockdown?

Yep, they shipped a set of 30mm screws to me that just arrived.

thanks. will order then

1

Hello guys, can someone tell me what the difference is between:

1:58 AM

what is the "full system" - what does that mean?

1:58 AM

Thanks!

TechDaddyTomerts

Hello guys, can someone tell me what the difference is between:

with or without the cooling press. in actuality we got 1 sheet 8mm thick approx every hour and 10 min 4x4 feet and 6kw heaters

1

ok, thanks!

Hello! i am from Argentina. I would like to make a shredder but I cannot open the .zip file into a file that my program have ... I need a DWG file... does anybody have one of this??

does anyone sell brass caps for an extruder

8:33 PM

it is so I can attach a mold to it

Ivan Inchausti

Hello! i am from Argentina. I would like to make a shredder but I cannot open the .zip file into a file that my program have ... I need a DWG file... does anybody have one of this??

what software are you using?

Happening now!

https://discord.com/events/586676777334865928/976234598897942538

Carolina

what software are you using?

it`s not my computer.... they use autocad. Do you know if it can be donwloaded in that format?

We have a team in New Hampshire in the US that's gathering next week to discuss our plans for which shredder to build (the basic or the pro.) As we compare the different machines, we have a few questions: -How long does it take to clean out the basic shredder between the use of different plastic? -What types of plastics, besides HDPE(#2), LDPE(#4), PP(#5), PS(#6), have been used in either type of shredder, and what is the thickest size that worked? -What methods are there to keep blades cool? Per the instructions, we don't want the temperature to rise above 55°C, but we might want to try using the machine with material that softens at 60°C. Besides turning the shredder off and waiting, what are some other ways of cooling? -Has anyone tried to build a frame with castors? What sort of problems or safety concerns might there be with this modification?

Can anyone explain to me why we use steel for the Injection/Extrusion tubes? Isnt that counterproductive considering that its more of a heat insulator than aluminum?

1

I wonder if could melt HDPE in a air fryer ?

Alex_recycles and creates

I wonder if could melt HDPE in a air fryer ?

I'm sure it would melt but it might make a mess if the air dryer blows plastic flakes everywhere inside. If plastic were to touch the heating element then you'd likely have a fire to deal with.

Hello does somebody know how to operate a water bath , the needed temperature to cool down PLA after it comes out the extruder

hobbit

Hello does somebody know how to operate a water bath , the needed temperature to cool down PLA after it comes out the extruder

What are you trying to do? spool up the extruded PLA?

Hi all, does anyone who's been studying the BOM for the washing machine have a link to the following product? I can't find it on Leroy Merlin Clean Water Tank - JARDIBRIC 3/4" to 3/4" PVC elbow coupling with inner thread (32mm 90* to filterhouse)

Hi @Precious Plastic ! Tomorrow we will have an event to go over the latest washing system design we recently released in a How-to (https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/ws---10). This was deployed in Algeria as part of the collab with UNHCR. Jesse, who helped design the washing system, will go over the design and design decisions, @Yann will be there to discuss a little bit about using it on the ground, and then will have an open discussion about it/washing in general.

Date: Thursday June 9th ⏰Time: 7pm CEST

location: #meeting-room

Link to the event: https://discord.gg/BTgryPP4?event=981475574398738452 See you there!

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

What are you trying to do? spool up the extruded PLA?

no it is for the extruded PLA , i need to cool t with a cooling system so that i can make filament

Hello pro's, what would be the simplest machine for beginners?

3:46 PM

I only have a shredder, after I am a "pro" at shredding, I want to start building real stuff

@TechDaddyTomerts Injection Machine for sure, its the cheapest and easiest to build.

hmm. ok thanks!

Mads Falk

Can anyone explain to me why we use steel for the Injection/Extrusion tubes? Isnt that counterproductive considering that its more of a heat insulator than aluminum?

strength, wearing. you will quickly wear out a aluminum tube with that chromemoly steel extrusion screw turning inside it

6:50 AM

FYI we have come up with a solution to feed the extrusion machine hopper more reliably. We mounted a stirring paddle in the hopper. For our v3 machine we used a hand crank and flat bar.

6:51 AM

for the v4 we ordered a 20rpm small motor for 8 dollars and that will power our stirring mechanism. with the flake often times it does not feed well and bridges or holds up in the extrusion machine, resulting in a production delay

6:52 AM

we at present need to pay someone with a stick to stand at the hopper all day and make sure the plastic feeds into the machine. With over a ton of plastic to process into beams, we had to make a better system

1

Hi everyone, we have been trying to build a workplace in Turkey. You can check us out here: www.studioblai.com. We have shredder, injection and extrusion machine. Lately I have been looking into building a sheet press. So what I am trying to find out is how companies like Smile Plastic or Samji Atelier are building their panels so large and with distinct patterns. Is there a machine in the industry? Is it just a large sheet press or did they modify and developed their own machines?

Nacnud

So without making things to complicated, I couldn't find the full load torque of that specific motor but I grabbed a general torque spec of a similar motor and it comes out to approx 1 Nm a full load, so you can use the gear reduction to calculate your rated output torque( mind you this is max and does not include losses, which there will be losses from heat ect). So take 1 Nm * 50 gear reduction, you'll be getting 50 Nm torque MAX, applying loss fudge factor say of 85% (again theoretical number but can get you ball park) will be 50 Nm * 85% = 42.5 Nm. So if you are to go based of the specs on the website you'll be at 14% the recommended torque and from that I don't think it will work considering looking at this post he was requiring 60 Nm at least: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/data-for-minimum-torque-required-with-shredder/ So I was going through this same struggle the past month and finally settled on a 3 HP (2.2 kW) motor with a 25:1 gear reduction, without applying losses I get close to 300 Nm of torque, but with losses included I am maybe getting 250 Nm. I am hoping this will be satisfactory but will keep you posted on that. My thinking is I don't want to spend money on a lesser motor just to end up buying a big motor after and spending more money so I think its important to not skimp out on the motor and gear reducer. I also purchased a VFD so I can run a 3-phase motor off my single phase power at my house, the VFD will also allowing easy reversing of the motor in case if it does get jammed from the torque not being enough. Little long winded post but hope this helps. (edited)

I am using a 2.2kw with 1:30 reduction and a VFD on the shredder 2.1 and I get stalls when trying to shred HDPE bottle lids. I am going to change to a 4.5kw because I want to be able to fill the hopper and go and do something else while that's shredding.

I took the shredder section out of the cross-cut paper shredder that I used to shred clothes before the full shredder broke. Ya think there is any way for me to like... pop a crank on this and still use it manually?

I got a bottle jack press

7:00 PM

1

https://youtu.be/ApGGf9J8MhE check out this shredder/granulator. Are we going about our process wrong?

Andrey Kolev

PET recycling bottles for polyester fiber only for 8000 US dollars.

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/ApGGf9J8MhE check out this shredder/granulator. Are we going about our process wrong?

Cool - what do you use the fibers for?

waterppk

Cool - what do you use the fibers for?

this is not my machine

6:28 AM

it is used in clothing and blankets.

6:28 AM

i am looking at the granulator he has, not the wool machine

So this machine I have is perfectly functional, but my only issue is finding a hand crank for it, as well as how to attach it if I do find one. Any tips for attaching a hand crank to cross-cut paper shredder teeth?

Butte (PP Philippines)

i am looking at the granulator he has, not the wool machine

Looks a lot like a wood chipper: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-amp-1-12-in-capacity-corded-electric-chipper-shredder-69293.html (debris goes in the top, chips come out the bottom)

14 Amp 1-1/2 in. Capacity Corded Electric Chipper Shredder

https://youtu.be/lgo0mLMZlV0 our version of the v4 extrusion machine...

Precious Plastic Philippines

Philippines version Precious Plastic extrusion machine for #diy #re...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFs6oxZNzs0 i need a plastic shredder that runs this fast

Forest Master

Compact 4HP Electric Wood Chipper - Garden Shredder (FM4DDE)

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/lgo0mLMZlV0 our version of the v4 extrusion machine...

paint, decals, some wiring, testing and done.

Geoff (PBI NTB)

I am using a 2.2kw with 1:30 reduction and a VFD on the shredder 2.1 and I get stalls when trying to shred HDPE bottle lids. I am going to change to a 4.5kw because I want to be able to fill the hopper and go and do something else while that's shredding.

Okay, I understand I am replying to myself. Maybe someone will find this helpful. I have experimented with the VFD settings in particular the Torque Compensation and Torque Compensation Frequency settings. I have set the Torque Compensation VFD parameter P13 to 0.7 (range 0.1-4.0) and the Torque Compensation Frequency parameter p14 to 18Hz for this 2.2kw motor. I get fairly good efficiency running the VFD at 12Hz on the second shred (bottle lids) with sieve. I get very few stalls now and it is much better at cutting. On the default settings it would really struggle.

2

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Okay, I understand I am replying to myself. Maybe someone will find this helpful. I have experimented with the VFD settings in particular the Torque Compensation and Torque Compensation Frequency settings. I have set the Torque Compensation VFD parameter P13 to 0.7 (range 0.1-4.0) and the Torque Compensation Frequency parameter p14 to 18Hz for this 2.2kw motor. I get fairly good efficiency running the VFD at 12Hz on the second shred (bottle lids) with sieve. I get very few stalls now and it is much better at cutting. On the default settings it would really struggle.

Thanks for sharing that @Geoff (PBI NTB). My shredder jams when I shred thicker polypropylene (#5). I use a VFD as well but haven't fiddled with the settings yet.

happy melting with 2.3 system

there is not excuse not to be safe now

1

injector question! I am having an issue with bolts getting damaged following injection

6:29 PM

the actual pressure is somehow compressing, stretching or damaging the threads of the bolts. any way I can avoid this? (edited)

Rai

injector question! I am having an issue with bolts getting damaged following injection

which bolts? Ones connecting to the injection rod? ones connecting the lever arm? or something else?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

which bolts? Ones connecting to the injection rod? ones connecting the lever arm? or something else?

on the molds

might need to use larger bolts or higher grade bolts. if you could share photos of what you're having problems with that would be helpful

Question for injection machine here, Is there a 3d model available for download and editing? Id like to edit and modify the design to fit the needs of my products id like to make

Rai

injector question! I am having an issue with bolts getting damaged following injection

Use long nuts and, if neccessary, longer bolts.

Hi, I want to try and set up my own Machine Shop at home and in the office to recycle plastic.. but upon downloading the file.. it says I need authorization.. can someone help me out? :)

2:41 PM

thx all!

6:07 PM

just bought some “grade 8” bolts, gonna try those

2

itscrispypat

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Try an app called 7-zip

itscrispypat

Click to see attachment 🖼️

You might need to save the file to a different folder. You might be trying it save the file to a read-only folder.

10:07 AM

Looks like you already have winrar installed, so you do have an appropriate file decompression application. Try saving it to your desktop, documents, downloads folders or if you have a usb drive you can try that too

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

You might need to save the file to a different folder. You might be trying it save the file to a read-only folder.

thank you, @NJ90210 and ben!! got it :) (edited)

1

Hey, thanks a broken Axe, I got to see my Shredder hast some corrosion. What is the recommended way to treat that?

4:44 PM

Lixeiro

Hey, thanks a broken Axe, I got to see my Shredder hast some corrosion. What is the recommended way to treat that?

Do you know what steel it is ? Mild steel or hardox ? Anyway, disassemble them, sand the rust, and apply a bit of oil on them before reassembling them.

Yann

Do you know what steel it is ? Mild steel or hardox ? Anyway, disassemble them, sand the rust, and apply a bit of oil on them before reassembling them.

about the steel I can ask the one who built it, sand I oil on it sounds simple. Thanks a lot!

@Yann I once had this same concern with a paper shredder but do you think that by oiling the knives the plastic that will be in contact with the oil might cause the extrusion process to fail due to side wall becoming lubricated?

6:28 PM

Assuming this plastic will go into a screw extruder

Erosion

@Yann I once had this same concern with a paper shredder but do you think that by oiling the knives the plastic that will be in contact with the oil might cause the extrusion process to fail due to side wall becoming lubricated?

Yes, there will be a contamination of the plastic, that is why the lubrication of the metal pieces needs to be done sparingly. If you apply oil with a fabric, and then clean it with a dry and clean fabric, there should only be a very thin layer of oil, enough to protect your metal parts, but thin enough to not cause a heavy contamination of your plastic.

Yann

Do you know what steel it is ? Mild steel or hardox ? Anyway, disassemble them, sand the rust, and apply a bit of oil on them before reassembling them.

S355 is the type of steel. Cheap and good enough for plastic said he.

I'm wanting to build a shredder I've got a nice motor now I just need to source a laser cut or plasma cutting service nearby

8:18 PM

Or is there a site that can do it for relatively cheap

8:18 PM

I work at a machine shop so we have the means to weld and post process anything that gets cut

8:19 PM

Also where is the shaft being sourced? Iirc it's a hex shaft

what if?

Lixeiro

Hey, thanks a broken Axe, I got to see my Shredder hast some corrosion. What is the recommended way to treat that?

rust converter is the easiest. then a coating of oil. if you want something more durable long lasting, and if you are down for some chemistry there is steel anodizing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g-azzYnMYo&t before you jump in and tell me steel can not be anodized... because conventional wisdom... Yes it can, but it is a lye solution not acidic like for aluminum or titanium. (edited)

tdburleigh

How to Anodize Steel

Erosion

@Yann I once had this same concern with a paper shredder but do you think that by oiling the knives the plastic that will be in contact with the oil might cause the extrusion process to fail due to side wall becoming lubricated?

I wouldn't worry about that. Extrusion is nice because it mixes things up fairly well, so if oil does get in, it will just get incorporated and not case some crazy flake separation that you might find with the sheet press.

so if this was made, only the side plate file needs to be changed. literally every other part is unchanged.

4 files modified.... lower parts count...

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Two rows of moving blades, but it needs spacers that have close clearance with the opposing blades, right? Otherwise a lot of plastic will fall through and not get shredded

Happening now

https://discord.gg/WXsgzVdu?event=986933604573655040

3

1

Always shredding it !

shred wasted wires . try to separate copper from plastics

5:43 PM

What is your plan after to separate the copper from the plastic ?

sell the copper . and the plastic can be use directly into injection moulding machine.make some plastic product . or...turn it into diesel

Lixeiro

Hey, thanks a broken Axe, I got to see my Shredder hast some corrosion. What is the recommended way to treat that?

Fastest solution: sodium hydroxide solution. Caution, it is very caustic. You need a plastic bucket, something like 5l of water and 1kg of sodium hydroxide flakes. Remember to put slowly the flakes in water in small batches and stir it until it dissolve. Putting too much sodium hydroxide in the water at once, or worse, putting water on flakes, is very dangerous because the solution of the flakes in the water make a lot of heat. When the solution is ready, just put the parts in the solution until they are clean. After that, rinse throughly them with water and cover them with some oil. You can also use sulfuric acid (battery one or liquid drain cleaner), citric acid, or better phosphoric acid. Even coke can do the job, slowly.

2

Butte (PP Philippines)

what if?

Dosen Work at all, i have Seen someone did this... just a Waste of Time and money

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvQU3Q8wwOU

Buster Beagle 3D

DIY Desktop Pneumatic Injection Molding Machine | Buster Beagle 3D ...

3:12 AM

His PDF download does not have a formal dimensional layout

3:12 AM

but it does have parts list with lengths.

3:13 AM

that said... I think you could make this from 1x1 inch or 25mmx25mm square steel tubing, and weld together (or angle bar) for a fraction of the cost of the aluminum extrusion

we need to cool our molds better. the barrel is too small, only cools half at a time, and is very heavy. we repurposed these two metal drums, cut into half, welded back together to make this awesome mold cooling tank. It will also have a rack to assist in removing the plastic from the mold and painted with epoxy paint for rust prevention.

4:59 AM

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

good idea, i need to do something like this for my project

more progress. using all the defect plastic beams for this project. essentially the water tank will look like this. paint and sealing all the small holes with silicone sealant.

3

Butte (PP Philippines)

more progress. using all the defect plastic beams for this project. essentially the water tank will look like this. paint and sealing all the small holes with silicone sealant.

I noticed the water gets quite hot when I'm playing around with trying to cool down the plastic. Are you considering doing something to deal with the heat that transfers to the water? I'm considering a small water pump and a used radiator

Is there any more of a detailed guide to what I need in order to create the shredder v2.1. There are no bolt guides and I have no idea where you source the hex shaft.

Erosion

Is there any more of a detailed guide to what I need in order to create the shredder v2.1. There are no bolt guides and I have no idea where you source the hex shaft.

You can buy the shredder kit in PP Bazar. For example from me. I have also axes from steel C45 and from much stronger steel 40HM (42crmo4)

hi team! we're looking to purchase the ceramic terminals for the new sheetpress. All of the items are on the BOM except the ceramic terminals. Thanks!

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I noticed the water gets quite hot when I'm playing around with trying to cool down the plastic. Are you considering doing something to deal with the heat that transfers to the water? I'm considering a small water pump and a used radiator

i never really have had any issues, but I have a large volume of water... thermal mass

2:05 AM

i was using a 55 gallon steel barrel, but that involved a lot of excess heavy lifting and two person to move the mold, which really makes it expensive to have two men working all weekend just standing around

got it filled with water. some small water leaks to patch with silicone, but it will work for todays production. no time to paint yet as we really need to keep the extrusion running constantly

FYI finding a lot of small steel shards in my shred lately. I put neodynium magnets on the extrusion machine hopper to catch them. the cost was only about 4 usd.

Butte (PP Philippines)

i was using a 55 gallon steel barrel, but that involved a lot of excess heavy lifting and two person to move the mold, which really makes it expensive to have two men working all weekend just standing around

I tried a 1m extrusion die with a waterjacket - it worked extremely well as the plastic came out cold at the end, so a 1m die could make infinitely long parts. Might be worth trying something similar?

1

11:49 AM

The hdpe extrusion had an extremely good finish too as the aluminium mould is much smoother than most steel inside

5

Taylor

I tried a 1m extrusion die with a waterjacket - it worked extremely well as the plastic came out cold at the end, so a 1m die could make infinitely long parts. Might be worth trying something similar?

can you show more detail about the connection between your mould and your extrusion machine? i would like to try your way in future

Taylor

I tried a 1m extrusion die with a waterjacket - it worked extremely well as the plastic came out cold at the end, so a 1m die could make infinitely long parts. Might be worth trying something similar?

can you post some video? I tried it with a 2x2 inch mold but it did not work. maybe not long enough mold?

2:49 AM

I cooled the water using my 1/4 hp water pump and radiator, homemade heat exchanger I made for the compression molder

2:50 AM

maybe I need a longer cooling zone?

2:50 AM

or it only works with smaller parts?

I need to try this again asap

5:36 AM

with the extrusion die

Someone is selling an injection machine in Huntsville, Alabama. It's not a precious plastic design but I think someone might be interested in a used machine. https://www.facebook.com/groups/97826290593/permalink/10166567852775594/?ref=share&mibextid=3qQk68

Log into Facebook

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2

Hi, I m building a injection mould and would like to know if betwenn the rele and the electric box, may need an isolator or another material to isolate the contact between rele and box surface. Any Idea people?

Lixeiro

Hi, I m building a injection mould and would like to know if betwenn the rele and the electric box, may need an isolator or another material to isolate the contact between rele and box surface. Any Idea people?

Sorry, I don't understand your question exactly but I hope this helps. Usually the injection machine has an electronics box that houses most electrical components. Inside the box should be: Circuit Breaker Solid State Relay (or other relay) PID (temperature controller) Injection barrel electrical components: Heaters (wired to relay in electrical box) Thermocouple (wired to PID in electrical box) You should consider installing insulation around the injection barrel for efficiency and safety (it gets hot and people always touch things they shouldn't). The electrical wires from the injection barrel can be insulated or minimally just keep them tidy and wire them into the electrical box, don't run them so they are touching the heating bands, that will melt the wires and be a big safety hazard. Pay attention to your power mains. I suggest using a polarized plug if possible so your hot wire cannot be switched with neutral wire. This is an electrical issue i've found where I live (two pin european style plug) and it can cause the body of the machine to be hot (it will shock you if you touch bare metal). Let me know if this answers your question

hi, thanks for all explanations and recommendations, I will consider it. Yes all is ready, what I means is about attach the relay at the box.. if this both, once attached, better would be if isolated.

9:41 AM

Some painting at the bottom to protect against corrosion, would be a good idea? the Relay would be attached exactly in that painted surface. Could be an issue?

Lixeiro

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Ah, this is a SSR (solid state relay). When there is a large current going through them, they will produce heat. The back plate of the SSR should be attached to something that can spread the heat so it can stay cool enough to function properly. A closed electrical box that has no ventilation might cause some issues due to temperature. But if you want to paint everything in there, that's fine. Just be sure to secure the SSR nicely, bolts/screws can help transfer the heat away from the SSR.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Ah, this is a SSR (solid state relay). When there is a large current going through them, they will produce heat. The back plate of the SSR should be attached to something that can spread the heat so it can stay cool enough to function properly. A closed electrical box that has no ventilation might cause some issues due to temperature. But if you want to paint everything in there, that's fine. Just be sure to secure the SSR nicely, bolts/screws can help transfer the heat away from the SSR.

Hi, thanks for help. Seems that an isolation layer between relay and electric box, is not a recommendable thing.

Lixeiro

Hi, thanks for help. Seems that an isolation layer between relay and electric box, is not a recommendable thing.

Correct, it is unnecessary. Again, Be sure that when you do connect everything that you check the frame of the injection machine with a test pen to make sure there's no electricity flowing through through it (and through the operator) Check it when you plug the machine in, and check again when the machine is turned on. Good luck with your build! I hope things go smoothly for you.

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Correct, it is unnecessary. Again, Be sure that when you do connect everything that you check the frame of the injection machine with a test pen to make sure there's no electricity flowing through through it (and through the operator) Check it when you plug the machine in, and check again when the machine is turned on. Good luck with your build! I hope things go smoothly for you.

thankyou! I will pay attention to that!

@Lixeiro And don't forget to ground (earth) the metal structure.

Hello everyone!

10:03 PM

We're trying to locate and purchase industrial sheetpresses

10:03 PM

does anyone have any leads?

Clandestino

We're trying to locate and purchase industrial sheetpresses

where are you located?

Looking to get a Shredder Pro in Thailand anyone have a lead on where I could get this from?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

where are you located?

Panama, we would have to ship any machine here, that's for sure!

Still looking! does anyone know which machines are used by Le Pavé and The Good Plastic Company?

Clandestino

Still looking! does anyone know which machines are used by Le Pavé and The Good Plastic Company?

They both use a more industrial process than PP sheetpress. GPC I believe is more similar to PP though.

Joseph

They both use a more industrial process than PP sheetpress. GPC I believe is more similar to PP though.

thanks for the reply @Joseph !! that's what we're trying to find out, what industrial machines they are using for making the sheets. We're looking to expand our operations to be able to supply to a regional market, still on the quotation phase, but soon to go into the 'meeting investors' phase... thanks again for any info!

❤️

Hey all, I'm having a problem with my band heaters burning out, and I wanted to see if y'all have any similar experience. Most recently, I noticed temperature dropping quickly on the lower set of band heaters on my injection machine after about two hours. After turning the machine off/letting it cool, I tried to diagnose it and found that four of my five band heaters were reading as open, with the sole functioning heater being adjacent to the other thermocouple. I previously burnt out one heater and wasn't too concerned about it, but losing four in quick succession---including the one I recently replaced---probably requires more attention. Any suggestions? So far, these are my thoughts: 1. Voltage spikes: I've never had any problem with house power, but the particular outlet I'm using is older, and may not be contacting well. I don't know if that would be a problem, but it's worth mentioning. 2. Overheating: I'm running the heaters pretty hot (280c vs a 300c rating). It's possible that they're just one overheating, and if one burns out the others overheat while trying to compensate for it. 3. The heaters are just low quality: These (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MB94M1) were recommended to me by another member of the community, but it's possible that something changed in the supply line recently. Thanks in advance! Hopefully a little advice can save me a lot of frustration.

YXQ 110V 380W Injected Mould Heating Element Band Heater 35x35mm, 2Pcs

SqueezeTheorem

Hey all, I'm having a problem with my band heaters burning out, and I wanted to see if y'all have any similar experience. Most recently, I noticed temperature dropping quickly on the lower set of band heaters on my injection machine after about two hours. After turning the machine off/letting it cool, I tried to diagnose it and found that four of my five band heaters were reading as open, with the sole functioning heater being adjacent to the other thermocouple. I previously burnt out one heater and wasn't too concerned about it, but losing four in quick succession---including the one I recently replaced---probably requires more attention. Any suggestions? So far, these are my thoughts: 1. Voltage spikes: I've never had any problem with house power, but the particular outlet I'm using is older, and may not be contacting well. I don't know if that would be a problem, but it's worth mentioning. 2. Overheating: I'm running the heaters pretty hot (280c vs a 300c rating). It's possible that they're just one overheating, and if one burns out the others overheat while trying to compensate for it. 3. The heaters are just low quality: These (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MB94M1) were recommended to me by another member of the community, but it's possible that something changed in the supply line recently. Thanks in advance! Hopefully a little advice can save me a lot of frustration.

I don't know anybody who runs their heaters that hot. The obvious suggestion is to lower your temperatures and to insulate your barrel and heaters so they dont need to run so hot.

6:15 AM

so far i've never had a dead heater. Issues? yes, but mostly with electrical connections being crap and poor connections heating up like the sun. My older extrusion machine is 5 years old now, never had to replace a heater. But sorry, i think all my heaters i've used are locally made and so there's no brand on them or anything.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I don't know anybody who runs their heaters that hot. The obvious suggestion is to lower your temperatures and to insulate your barrel and heaters so they dont need to run so hot.

Thanks. Lowering the temperature seemed like the most likely answer to me, too. As a starting point, what temperatures do you usually set for PP and HDPE?

SqueezeTheorem

Thanks. Lowering the temperature seemed like the most likely answer to me, too. As a starting point, what temperatures do you usually set for PP and HDPE?

i dont use injection but for extrusion i have 3 zones but they're set to 180/180/185 (nozzle is hotter) Previously i had things set to 210C in fear of things not getting hot enough for the plastic but i think that might explain why i was seeing more smoke.

hi guys, I have some questions trying to troubleshoot why I can't get my shredder to operate effectively? Is this the right place to ask? Appreciate any help

atapene

hi guys, I have some questions trying to troubleshoot why I can't get my shredder to operate effectively? Is this the right place to ask? Appreciate any help

What do you observe ? And yes this is the right place to ask

Hey y’all - I’m building the shredder 2.0 (standard, not pro) and am looking to find what type of hardware I need to order and can’t seem to find it in the .zip I have a length of threaded rod and want to verify measurements match what is needed in the end rather than guess on that before I cut anything. In addition, I had the nuts and bolts that came with my bearings, but my helpful assistant accidentally threw them away with the packaging and I didn’t catch their siding before. Anyone got a list of nut/bolt sizes for the shredder? Length to cut threaded rod?

Smarterer

Hey y’all - I’m building the shredder 2.0 (standard, not pro) and am looking to find what type of hardware I need to order and can’t seem to find it in the .zip I have a length of threaded rod and want to verify measurements match what is needed in the end rather than guess on that before I cut anything. In addition, I had the nuts and bolts that came with my bearings, but my helpful assistant accidentally threw them away with the packaging and I didn’t catch their siding before. Anyone got a list of nut/bolt sizes for the shredder? Length to cut threaded rod?

hello! here should be all the information you need to build our latest version of the Shredder Basic

(Model 3.3) https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33- Let me know if you cannot find anything!

SHR - 3.3

Shredding is the first step of processing the precious plastic that you collected. It will break apart it into flakes and then they will be ready to be processed with the other machines to create new precious products

. The main diffference between the Shredder Basic and PRO it's their shredding capacity, the SHRPRO can shred up to 50 kg/h and ...

Hi everyone, I am designing a smaller version of sheet press and I was thinking of using tubular heating element instead of cartridge heaters for more even and faster heat distribution. Any experiences or recomendations on tubular heaters? Would that be a good idea?

The 2D blueprints of SHRPRO-2 mention the sieve. According to blueprint 1000.00-0 there should be a file 1400.00-0 with the sieve blueprints. But this file seems to be missing?! Got it lost by accident? https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcUbMRKUCFx7X5PxSFsPZs9Em9RwRsNaz30AJEp-hmriQl#/space/gc5PUkFy1QZe-n49PeCWmCLojw8Y3ieBpX2S96s8tcRKS-/folder/12124513

GrabCAD

The GrabCAD platform drives additive manufacturing at scale through connected solutions, including GrabCAD Print, GrabCAD Shop & the GrabCAD SDKs.

Hi Everyone.

12:31 PM

Not sure how this works but i had some questions about the extruder pro. is this the correct channel to get answers?

#

12:50 PM

#archived-machines

Doruk Yıldırım

Hi everyone, I am designing a smaller version of sheet press and I was thinking of using tubular heating element instead of cartridge heaters for more even and faster heat distribution. Any experiences or recomendations on tubular heaters? Would that be a good idea?

I use strip heaters. They're nice because I have them bolted down to the sheet press heating plates. If you're using tubular heaters, you need to make sure they have a really good connection to the heating pate for better thermal efficiency.

mantispak

Not sure how this works but i had some questions about the extruder pro. is this the correct channel to get answers?

Ask away!

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Well, do you think tubular heaters would have any advantageous against cartridge heaters, or should I just go with cartridge heater?

Is there a solution to granulate small plastic chunks into smaller plastic chunks

3:32 AM

I used this paper shredder for a while but it broke, plastic bushings are cheap and stupid.

Doruk Yıldırım

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Well, do you think tubular heaters would have any advantageous against cartridge heaters, or should I just go with cartridge heater?

It depends on how things are attached. If you use a tubular heater and do not have a good mechanical connection between the heater and the heat plate, then you will have little mini ovens that you're using like a stove. I'm not sure if this makes sense. Imagine having an empty box with a heater inside of it and you want to use this to heat something on top of the box. It would work better if the heating element was directly attached to the surface you want to use for heating. (edited)

11:36 AM

I do a bit too much thinking outloud. It's my belief that going with cartridge heaters or even strip heaters is better than using tubular heaters. You might be able to get the tubular heaters to work but you're going to be fighting the sheet press grid for space.

Carolina started a thread. 7/26/2022 7:55 PM

Hello Everyone ! I am planning to build the new sheet press, and was wondering if anyone has done the BOM for cut steel tubes ? I am planning to order the tubes from a local manufacturer (not having the tool to cut it with enough precision) and they are gonna need a listing If I am to start it, I'd love to get tips regarding your release process, and standards

(and any help is welcome as well

Hi all, I am looking for help, sorry if this is the wrong channel. How to attach the shredder to the motor in this case? The most success I achieved was with an 18 mm socket head. I've ground about 1kg PLA plastic but failed again. Is there any permanent solution?

1

RKeyQQ

Hi all, I am looking for help, sorry if this is the wrong channel. How to attach the shredder to the motor in this case? The most success I achieved was with an 18 mm socket head. I've ground about 1kg PLA plastic but failed again. Is there any permanent solution?

Right channel. This is possibly the strangest coupling i've seen. If you want to keep using a socket head, i suggest using an impact grade 18mm socket. If your alignment is perfect you could use a piece of steel that has the appropriate keyway and diameter and use a set screw to help keep things from moving around too much. There's several options for couplings. i hope you have a lathe or know a local machine shop that can help you out with this. Here's some photos of different couplings i've seen on precious plastic shredders

4:30 AM

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Right channel. This is possibly the strangest coupling i've seen. If you want to keep using a socket head, i suggest using an impact grade 18mm socket. If your alignment is perfect you could use a piece of steel that has the appropriate keyway and diameter and use a set screw to help keep things from moving around too much. There's several options for couplings. i hope you have a lathe or know a local machine shop that can help you out with this. Here's some photos of different couplings i've seen on precious plastic shredders

Thanks for the reply. This is all complicated. I used a socket head because I didn't imagine what else to use. My alignment is unknown

I bought the motor from amazon and put it all on a piece of the tabletop (see video). To be honest I am not sure if there is actually a local machine shop in the Czech Republic. The local would probably be in 3 hours ride away without a normal web page and working 5 hours only on business days. Thanks for the pictures though. Will try to find something.

RKeyQQ

Hi all, I am looking for help, sorry if this is the wrong channel. How to attach the shredder to the motor in this case? The most success I achieved was with an 18 mm socket head. I've ground about 1kg PLA plastic but failed again. Is there any permanent solution?

You need claw clutch. When ordering such item you are defining both diameters of the shafts.

1

Hello everyone, I'm hoping to get started on my PP journey soon, but I have a possibly goofy question I'm looking for means to break down plastic from bottles and trash into usable flakes or chunks. Aside from like, the possible lack of consistency, would something like a woodchipper or mulcher make for a decent starting point for a personal-sized plastic shredder?

RKeyQQ

Thanks for the reply. This is all complicated. I used a socket head because I didn't imagine what else to use. My alignment is unknown

I bought the motor from amazon and put it all on a piece of the tabletop (see video). To be honest I am not sure if there is actually a local machine shop in the Czech Republic. The local would probably be in 3 hours ride away without a normal web page and working 5 hours only on business days. Thanks for the pictures though. Will try to find something.

by machine shop i dont mean a precious plastic machine shop, i mean a workspace that has the appropriate tools for creating the piece you need. Quite often they work on cars, trucks, and other machinery. They should have a lathe and a mill. If they have these, then very likely they can make what you need. otherwise you need to source the parts that fit directly onto your gearbox output shaft and the shredder blade shaft. Looks like your welds broke or mounting bolts broke on your shredder box. make sure its secured!!!!

Abers

Hello everyone, I'm hoping to get started on my PP journey soon, but I have a possibly goofy question I'm looking for means to break down plastic from bottles and trash into usable flakes or chunks. Aside from like, the possible lack of consistency, would something like a woodchipper or mulcher make for a decent starting point for a personal-sized plastic shredder?

consistency comes from using filters. things get chopped up enough till they fit through a filter. It doesnt matter so much what machine you use so long as it can cut plastic, but if you want a more uniform end result, you need to use a filter.

1

That makes sense, I figure until budget allowed me to do so properly, just running stuff through with multiple passes through something like a woodchipper would probably help with consistency

Abers

That makes sense, I figure until budget allowed me to do so properly, just running stuff through with multiple passes through something like a woodchipper would probably help with consistency

i used to run my shredder with no filter, but i needed things to come out super fine. I think it is a bit excessive if you need to run the same material through the same machine 15 times. Alternatively you can have a filter outside of the machine to pass through material thats small enough and then do another pass with whatever doesnt go through. You're probably going to waste a lot of time with this though if you're processing a lot of material.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

by machine shop i dont mean a precious plastic machine shop, i mean a workspace that has the appropriate tools for creating the piece you need. Quite often they work on cars, trucks, and other machinery. They should have a lathe and a mill. If they have these, then very likely they can make what you need. otherwise you need to source the parts that fit directly onto your gearbox output shaft and the shredder blade shaft. Looks like your welds broke or mounting bolts broke on your shredder box. make sure its secured!!!!

Got it

I think it is impossible to source a coupler for my motor because the round part is too short and I found no couplers with hexagon shaft profile. Might be there a common or recommended solution? idk, something from amazon/aliexpress/ebay to purchase, attach and go without wielding or machine shop? I mean a proper set: motor+gearbox+coupler (edited)

Hi All- I am currently working on a sheetpress and the Ceramic Terminals from the BOM are not available anymore. this is a 600v version instead of the original 450v ceramic terminals in the BOM. Will these work for the sheetpress? My guess is that something rated for higher voltage wont be a problen, but I am not an electrician and will be outsourcing the wiring portion of this job.https://www.grainger.com/product/2LRU1?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAjwlqOXBhBqEiwA-hhitIWR4WUBwP2nozZTLRNcz2KGs78xuvfvhwvdyhxqszJ4sjD9JUtSYRoCJL8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (edited)

yes, it will do !

4:25 PM

(check the amp rating is equal or higher as well)

RKeyQQ

Got it

I think it is impossible to source a coupler for my motor because the round part is too short and I found no couplers with hexagon shaft profile. Might be there a common or recommended solution? idk, something from amazon/aliexpress/ebay to purchase, attach and go without wielding or machine shop? I mean a proper set: motor+gearbox+coupler (edited)

Dismount that shaft from electric motor and go with it to turner… he will make that round part for you. After that you can order proper claw clutch. If you will be able to unmount that shaft - I can help you with that and ordering the proper claw clutch.

lukhe

yes, it will do !

Thank you so much!

Quick question on the shredder basic/pro. Getting my files prepped for laser but wanted to check what grade of Hardox is recommended?

Anyone have tips on selecting the right motor for the machine I am trying to build? Currently having trouble digging thru the sea of listings (Looking into the shredder and extruder)

filthycasual

Quick question on the shredder basic/pro. Getting my files prepped for laser but wanted to check what grade of Hardox is recommended?

Hardox 450 or hardox 500 - No matter. Hardox is hardox - very hard material. I have hardox. Both grades are great. I feel no difference.

@everyone Does anyone know of people using solar to power the recycling machines like a shredder?

I can’t find the dxf file with 3 teeth blades for shredder V3.3 - anyone has that file? Can you share it with me?

TechDaddyTomerts

@everyone Does anyone know of people using solar to power the recycling machines like a shredder?

Well brothers make uses clean energy to power their machines they are amazing people

TechDaddyTomerts

@everyone Does anyone know of people using solar to power the recycling machines like a shredder?

To power my heat press with just solar for 3 hours the panels would cost 5,000 dollars

Alex_recycles and creates

To power my heat press with just solar for 3 hours the panels would cost 5,000 dollars

yea

Jacek

I can’t find the dxf file with 3 teeth blades for shredder V3.3 - anyone has that file? Can you share it with me?

Hello Jacek, I am not sure I understand the question : There are the blade design of the shredder V2.0 in the download kit, which I think you already have since long. Then there are the balde design from the shredder 3.3 here : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33- The "blade 3" is the drawing 1200.04 in the "hardox 5mm" folder. But in both cases, these are 2 teeth design. I saw some people designing 3 teeth balde design, but unfortunately, there is some chance it hasn't been open sourced back... do you know who made it ?

SHR - 3.3

Shredding is the first step of processing the precious plastic that you collected. It will break apart it into flakes and then they will be ready to be processed with the other machines to create new precious products

. The main diffference between the Shredder Basic and PRO it's their shredding capacity, the SHRPRO can shred up to 50 kg/h and ...

Yann

Hello Jacek, I am not sure I understand the question : There are the blade design of the shredder V2.0 in the download kit, which I think you already have since long. Then there are the balde design from the shredder 3.3 here : https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33- The "blade 3" is the drawing 1200.04 in the "hardox 5mm" folder. But in both cases, these are 2 teeth design. I saw some people designing 3 teeth balde design, but unfortunately, there is some chance it hasn't been open sourced back... do you know who made it ?

I notice that a few sellers offers 3 teeth blade for shredder V3.3 - I decided that I will test that blade if I will only have such dxf file.

What RPM should i be looking to gear down to? i've just been able to pick up a really cheap 2800 RPM 2hp motor 22mm shaft. and am looking to see what reducer i should buy?

Jacek

Dismount that shaft from electric motor and go with it to turner… he will make that round part for you. After that you can order proper claw clutch. If you will be able to unmount that shaft - I can help you with that and ordering the proper claw clutch.

The shaft stuck here, cannot disassemble. I've used a hummer and WD without success. I've got only two metal cracks

That is why I wish I got a chance to purchase a new motor which would be 100% compatible without anything extra

RKeyQQ

The shaft stuck here, cannot disassemble. I've used a hummer and WD without success. I've got only two metal cracks

You probably bent the shaft with those trials with the socket head… like the one you showed in the video. Since shafts have a very precise fit, a little bend or bit of metal that went in it, wont let you take it out easily (edited)

Doesn't resolve the issue though. I thought I would get the shredder and will recycle plastic the same day. I got it 10th of February and have no progress so far... I know that all is my fault but still it is not an easy task to make all work. Throwing out plastic seems simpler and cheaper now for sure.

RKeyQQ

Doesn't resolve the issue though. I thought I would get the shredder and will recycle plastic the same day. I got it 10th of February and have no progress so far... I know that all is my fault but still it is not an easy task to make all work. Throwing out plastic seems simpler and cheaper now for sure.

Its definitely not easy if you aren’t experienced with those kind of machines, that’s why it’s always better to contact some local machine shop or discuss here in discord before trying things your aren’t sure will work for sure, because it can easily become a domino effect and end damaging more parts of the machine

Did you stick in the gearbox an hexagonal shaft?? Thats what you are trying to take out? (edited)

RKeyQQ

Got it

I think it is impossible to source a coupler for my motor because the round part is too short and I found no couplers with hexagon shaft profile. Might be there a common or recommended solution? idk, something from amazon/aliexpress/ebay to purchase, attach and go without wielding or machine shop? I mean a proper set: motor+gearbox+coupler (edited)

Is there any reason a round coupler won't fit on your hex shaft?

Green Ellipsis

Is there any reason a round coupler won't fit on your hex shaft?

because it has to have the same shape

building a sort of buster beagle mk3 injection molder design. big mods are the following: 1 industrial electrical control box in place of the 3D printed unit. 2 steel tubing frame welded 3 Steel laser cut parts in place of aluminum 4 fixed injection heated barrel. 5 mold moves to the barrel not the barrel to the mold via 2.5 ton scissor jack (edited)

3:47 AM

once I work out the design and parts, I will make a bolt together steel frame from laser cut and cnc bent parts that will be flat pack for shipping international. It will be a much more industrial production grade machine, and at a relatively low cost.

Carolina

Its definitely not easy if you aren’t experienced with those kind of machines, that’s why it’s always better to contact some local machine shop or discuss here in discord before trying things your aren’t sure will work for sure, because it can easily become a domino effect and end damaging more parts of the machine

Did you stick in the gearbox an hexagonal shaft?? Thats what you are trying to take out? (edited)

Thanks. In fact, I have no exp. in all of that, no wielding skills, etc. I'm a typical IT guy. Just want to reuse tons of plastic I produce with my 3d printers and personally. No financial profit is expected as well. I just saw some youtube guy (https://youtu.be/NL-k8kJ8yig) who showed PP Shredder and attached to the winch. I've bought this winch, I had no idea at all about gearbox or shaft dimensions because there is nothing in the description. https://www.amazon.de/-/en/OUKANING-capacity-electric-cable-hoist/dp/B08K3GXY8V/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=elektrische+seilwinde+500+kg+1000+kg+garagen%C3%BCberkopf+deckenhebekran+1400+w&qid=1650039600&sr=8-1 That is all my story so far.

Hey I am currently trying to build the PP Basic Shredder for my University. I have access to our school machine shop and welding experience. I was lucky enough to win a grant to build the system. I am trying to figure out ordering the parts to be lasered. I was recommended to use OSHCut by a few differents professors and grad students. They are also fairly close as I am in Denver, CO. I've noticed that they only stock imperial thicknesses of sheet metal. As do alot of online services. I found the Imperial Shredder parts file in the discord here. Upon uploading to a few different laser services the files were flagged for errors of intersecting contours etc. Instead of editing each file, would I be able to order the parts at imperial thickness and then use a 20mm hex bar instead of a 3/4"?

What RPM should i be looking to gear down to? i've just been able to pick up a really cheap 2800 RPM 2hp motor 22mm shaft. and am looking to see what reducer i should buy?

ZerekEX

Hey I am currently trying to build the PP Basic Shredder for my University. I have access to our school machine shop and welding experience. I was lucky enough to win a grant to build the system. I am trying to figure out ordering the parts to be lasered. I was recommended to use OSHCut by a few differents professors and grad students. They are also fairly close as I am in Denver, CO. I've noticed that they only stock imperial thicknesses of sheet metal. As do alot of online services. I found the Imperial Shredder parts file in the discord here. Upon uploading to a few different laser services the files were flagged for errors of intersecting contours etc. Instead of editing each file, would I be able to order the parts at imperial thickness and then use a 20mm hex bar instead of a 3/4"?

https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/shredder-converted-to-imperial-system-inches/page/2/ try the download from here there is a few different folders of different versions one set may work. I was able to get a local company to use files from here to get my parts

Shredder converted to Imperial system (Inches) - Dave Hakkens

Hello everyone :) After several days learning CAD and some 3D modeling tools, I have finally finished my conversion of the Precious Plastic Shredder to imperial units. This is a Read more...

DamianIndustries

What RPM should i be looking to gear down to? i've just been able to pick up a really cheap 2800 RPM 2hp motor 22mm shaft. and am looking to see what reducer i should buy?

Recommended RPM are on the precious plastic website. What version shredder are you running? (edited)

3.3

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

This is for the Shredder pro!

DamianIndustries

3.3

Carolina

This is for the Shredder pro!

Oops got the versions mixed up!

Thanks so much

@RKeyQQ These winch Motors wont work very long Time until they overheat and shut off. When you want to have a good motor it will cost about 500€ +/-100

похищен

@RKeyQQ These winch Motors wont work very long Time until they overheat and shut off. When you want to have a good motor it will cost about 500€ +/-100

it took me trying 4 different types and brand before I found a unit that would run 20min and had a overheat shutoff relay. even still it was not exactly low cost, but still 1/3 of a gear motor.

@Butte (PP Philippines) winch motors are not built for continuous operation, at some point they will all overheat, regardless of whether they are loaded or not. Saving at the wrong corner is usually more expensive

3:23 AM

I can get this motor with spur gears for about 500€ from a dealer. 0.75Kw, with this configuration 189Nm and 38Rpm

2

3:24 AM

Also Brand new, not used

How sure can you be that you actually send the goods?

похищен

I can get this motor with spur gears for about 500€ from a dealer. 0.75Kw, with this configuration 189Nm and 38Rpm

in the Philippines that is about 1000 euro brand new and requires 3 phase. 3 Phase here has a 5-10 year wait and a 200-300usd monthly charge. Or a inverter that will cost additional several hundred dollars. Meanwhile I am competing against guys selling shredders for 400 dollars using even lower grade materials.

You can get this motor with an VFD shipped to Phillipines for less than 1000$

not with customs fees, or shipping. i got charged almost 200usd just for a extrusion screw 4 weeks ago in taxes and fees alone

4:53 AM

meanwhile in the shop right now

4:54 AM

pneumatic injection molder kinda based on the buster beagle mk3. Prototype design to get the measurements right and then will make some laser cut and cnc bent frames from 3mm MS plate

There are certainly different shipping service providers, one more expensive than the other, and that will probably not change for the time being

похищен

There are certainly different shipping service providers, one more expensive than the other, and that will probably not change for the time being

customs here is still customs, and they are corrupt... so there is that. have to use what is already in country for the most part. I am also using 2kw hoist motors. If someone wants more industrial then they can get my big 5hp granulator.

5:05 AM

or this 5hp v3 shredder monster, single phase with belt/pulley and then chain sprocket reduction.

Butte (PP Philippines)

customs here is still customs, and they are corrupt... so there is that. have to use what is already in country for the most part. I am also using 2kw hoist motors. If someone wants more industrial then they can get my big 5hp granulator.

I hope there is a cover for the belt drive

the entire frame covers all the moving parts.

At the granulator? I see the shaft outside

the big unit in the second photo runs 6-8 hours per day and has been in operation for over 2 years

5:09 AM

this cover you mean? machine can not work without the belt cover, that is where the power switch is mounted.

5:10 AM

the blue unit is current design. the galvanized box is our extrusion machine design. all moving and hot parts are covered.

Butte (PP Philippines)

this cover you mean? machine can not work without the belt cover, that is where the power switch is mounted.

Yes, that looks safer, except for the bare power cables

the galvanized unit was the very first unit we built of this design, and the power cables are run differently now. we build about 1-2 units per month.

Okay, that's nice

Hi guys, hope everyone is well! I just finished building a V3 injection machine and I'm about to start with the electronics. Any hints and tips, what to avoid etc? Took me a while to get all the components so I don't want to make any silly mistakes. I'm following the schematic diagram that came in the injection starterkit. If any videos or info on this has been shared in the past please direct me to it! thank you

(edited)

ZerekEX

Hey I am currently trying to build the PP Basic Shredder for my University. I have access to our school machine shop and welding experience. I was lucky enough to win a grant to build the system. I am trying to figure out ordering the parts to be lasered. I was recommended to use OSHCut by a few differents professors and grad students. They are also fairly close as I am in Denver, CO. I've noticed that they only stock imperial thicknesses of sheet metal. As do alot of online services. I found the Imperial Shredder parts file in the discord here. Upon uploading to a few different laser services the files were flagged for errors of intersecting contours etc. Instead of editing each file, would I be able to order the parts at imperial thickness and then use a 20mm hex bar instead of a 3/4"?

We redesigned the shredder to use 7 gauge stainless as that's what the local manufacturing company used and we successfully assembled it but haven't run material through it yet. I could dig out the files if they're helpful but if you can't get/use 7 gauge they won't be of much help

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oY7MymQnENI

Precious Plastic Philippines

@One Army precious plastic Philippines pneumatic injection molder p...

My wife wants a commercial baking oven because ours isn’t accurate enough. So instead of spending $4000, I added a PID to my oven

she’s confirmed that it bakes better now! The built in thermostat was 20 degrees off, and responded VERY slowly

4

Taylor

My wife wants a commercial baking oven because ours isn’t accurate enough. So instead of spending $4000, I added a PID to my oven

she’s confirmed that it bakes better now! The built in thermostat was 20 degrees off, and responded VERY slowly

should we add it to the pp machines arsenal?

Taylor

My wife wants a commercial baking oven because ours isn’t accurate enough. So instead of spending $4000, I added a PID to my oven

she’s confirmed that it bakes better now! The built in thermostat was 20 degrees off, and responded VERY slowly

This looks like an awesome idea!

What do you guys use to clean the air from injector / extruding / sheet press machines?

jensdb

What do you guys use to clean the air from injector / extruding / sheet press machines?

We use carbon filters, the one you can find in grow shops. You need to adapt it to your ventilation capacity depending on the size of your room, machines etc…

Yann

We use carbon filters, the one you can find in grow shops. You need to adapt it to your ventilation capacity depending on the size of your room, machines etc…

Ok thanks for the answer, could you please send a picture or model number of the machine you got ?

Hello guys! New here, im trying to get a shredder in my workshop, but i have some issues: 1. My country barely allows to import machines from other countries 2. Plasma cutting/CNC isnt a cheap option. Any recommendation on how to make the shredder box? thanks

tubaro1

Hello guys! New here, im trying to get a shredder in my workshop, but i have some issues: 1. My country barely allows to import machines from other countries 2. Plasma cutting/CNC isnt a cheap option. Any recommendation on how to make the shredder box? thanks

You can order parts and build them over time

Alex_recycles and creates

You can order parts and build them over time

cant, as mentioned, my country barely allows to import machines (including parts)

6:00 PM

tubaro1

cant, as mentioned, my country barely allows to import machines (including parts)

Im sure you can find designs on machines here and build them. you can probably buy some supplies at stores

tubaro1

Hello guys! New here, im trying to get a shredder in my workshop, but i have some issues: 1. My country barely allows to import machines from other countries 2. Plasma cutting/CNC isnt a cheap option. Any recommendation on how to make the shredder box? thanks

Where are you based ? I supposed you check on the bazar already, but you could ask some seller to pack and declare the goods differently so it is not considered as a machine part (but again I don't know where you are, that might be a bad idea !). Did you also check the second hand market in your country, sometimes a second hand shredder provided locally is a good option as well.

7:47 PM

If not, the PP shredder will be hard to adapt to a no laser cut option, but you can check granulator designs, as parts are less complex, and could be manufactured without CNC options. It is rarely cheaper though, as a lot of time needs to be spend.

@tubaro1 where are you located?

2:39 AM

the last bits for the prototype pneumatic injection molder today.

2:42 AM

loosely inspired by the Buster Beagle Mk3 except with laser cut steel frame, shipped flat pack, integrated electronics, more safety features.

2:43 AM

will see if i can get the price economical for the bazar

Is there an extruder-dev section? Looking for economical ways to acquire extrusion screws for various material sizes, I came across this absolute gem of a paper showing how to build a compression screw, effectively using not much more than a 3D printer, angle grinder, and spite.

6:43 AM

https://digitalcommons.mtu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=3787&context=michigantech-p

Smarterer

Is there an extruder-dev section? Looking for economical ways to acquire extrusion screws for various material sizes, I came across this absolute gem of a paper showing how to build a compression screw, effectively using not much more than a 3D printer, angle grinder, and spite.

Nope, since the dev channels are for machines or products that are currently under development. But anything related to the other machines (that dont have a dev channel) you can post/ ask here

(edited)

Hi I'm new to this forum. I want to know if anyone has ideas on what commercial machine suppliers are recommended to set up a factory to produce HDPE panels?

philosofree

Hi I'm new to this forum. I want to know if anyone has ideas on what commercial machine suppliers are recommended to set up a factory to produce HDPE panels?

This depends. Where are you located? How large of panels do you want to make? If you want a Precious Plastic sheet press, it might make sense to get something made more locally in case something comes up/breaks/stops working unless you're a motivated and mechanically inclined person (or know someone who is)

Butte (PP Philippines)

@tubaro1 where are you located?

Argentina, our “Amazon” doesn’t have any second hand machine either

Hello! I am looking for firsthand experience from anyone who purchased a built sheet press (≈1m square) and had it shipped to the USA. We are ready to purchase one but so far I can find only a few reviews in the Bazaar. Some are helpful but it's hard to tell if any are from the USA.

Hello everyone! I would like to discuss the purchase of a machine. Last September, we ordered and paid for SHEETPRESS, INJECTION, EXTRUDER, and SHREDDER from a company exhibiting in the bazaar. However, due to the beginning of the invasion of Ukraine, we have not been able to obtain the machines yet. Now the machines are completed but I am not able to export them and my business is not progressing. I know it sounds terrible, but I believe that the company I purchased the machine from is also a victim. If there had been no war, there would have been no problem. Therefore, I would like to purchase again 4 machines at once. SHEETPRESS is the one that can create 1000x1000 size or larger. I will be paying double, which is a very big cost burden for me as I do not have the funds. I am looking for a colleague who understands the situation and will sell it to me as cheaply as possible. Please DM me and I will inform you individually about the situation and specifications. I am in a very difficult situation. Please help me.　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　We were able to get proposals from several companies. I will close once. Thank you so much. (edited)

newest shop addition. Unfortunately it does not have a big enough shot size. Used the buster beagle mk3 as baseline for the design. Changes in the barrel and mold clamp mechanism required. also laser cut steel and cnc bend frame instead of the all steel tubing (maybe) or laser cut bracket and tubing? Will see,,,

Butte (PP Philippines)

newest shop addition. Unfortunately it does not have a big enough shot size. Used the buster beagle mk3 as baseline for the design. Changes in the barrel and mold clamp mechanism required. also laser cut steel and cnc bend frame instead of the all steel tubing (maybe) or laser cut bracket and tubing? Will see,,,

Looks super strong!! it could be specialized to low volume small cavities products, as it is. Just great!

Ruben

Looks super strong!! it could be specialized to low volume small cavities products, as it is. Just great!

well if someone locally in Philippines wants to buy it, I will sell it for a great price

Hello I need some experienced advice about shredder boxes. I am building a shredder version 2.1, I already have motor, gearbox and the connector for the shaft, so i purchased a kit to build my shredder box. Problem is that, even tough i was able to build it correctly - when i spinned it by hand it made no sound, as per video instrucion by PP - when i soldered it somehow i have bent it and it spinned with some friction and noise (it was my first time soldering inox steel). So I tought it was not a good piece and i ordered another one on the bazar, from another manufacturer, but this time i have chosen an already soldered version, as a way to delegate to an expert the solution problem i have caused. Problem is that the shredder box has come (fully built) much more stuck than mine, to my very surprise. The advice i need now is: maybe that is an ok standard to have shredder boxes with friction and i can use them anyway. Or maybe i have got a totally wrong piece and i have to send it back to get a refund. What is the right thought? In case it is the second one, could someone point me to a reliable manufacturer that can send me a proper bult shredder box (UK based one is ok?)? What do you suggest to do in bazar feedback? I have to warn other potential client or it is better to find an agreement with the manufacturer (i have been waiting for several weeks for the good and i am not so confident)? Thank you for any advice

blastic

Hello I need some experienced advice about shredder boxes. I am building a shredder version 2.1, I already have motor, gearbox and the connector for the shaft, so i purchased a kit to build my shredder box. Problem is that, even tough i was able to build it correctly - when i spinned it by hand it made no sound, as per video instrucion by PP - when i soldered it somehow i have bent it and it spinned with some friction and noise (it was my first time soldering inox steel). So I tought it was not a good piece and i ordered another one on the bazar, from another manufacturer, but this time i have chosen an already soldered version, as a way to delegate to an expert the solution problem i have caused. Problem is that the shredder box has come (fully built) much more stuck than mine, to my very surprise. The advice i need now is: maybe that is an ok standard to have shredder boxes with friction and i can use them anyway. Or maybe i have got a totally wrong piece and i have to send it back to get a refund. What is the right thought? In case it is the second one, could someone point me to a reliable manufacturer that can send me a proper bult shredder box (UK based one is ok?)? What do you suggest to do in bazar feedback? I have to warn other potential client or it is better to find an agreement with the manufacturer (i have been waiting for several weeks for the good and i am not so confident)? Thank you for any advice

Define „more stuck” what issue do you have? Maybe you need to do done some work with file to have perfect curved edges etc. from who did you buy the shredder kit? Did you contacted with seller to solve this issue? You wrote a lots of words but not so very describing your issue. I can tell you that I’m also a shredder builder and seller and each of my shredder kit has some small noise during working and it’s ok for me. I builded over 250 shredder kits and can say that this is normal.

blastic started a thread. 9/1/2022 3:34 PM

I just saw this on hackaday; https://github.com/nevermore3d From the Voron people; it's an open source carbon filter.

Nevermore Activated Carbon Filters

Nevermore Activated Carbon Filters. Nevermore Activated Carbon Filters has 8 repositories available. Follow their code on GitHub.

1

would people be interested if I put a activated charcoal air filter on the bazar?

8:47 AM

I used to make giant charcoal air filters for use with co2 lasers before. they remove all the odor. I can make a smaller unit 4 inch to work with 4 inch vent fans

Butte (PP Philippines)

would people be interested if I put a activated charcoal air filter on the bazar?

Not a bad idea

I need help

5:49 PM

So the shredder I got requires a 1.5kw motor but my outlets don’t give that much

5:50 PM

I’m wondering if I could get a smaller motor but make it spin faster then slow it with a worm gear

What matters more with a shredder the volts or the RPM

Alex_recycles and creates

What matters more with a shredder the volts or the RPM

The torque will be most important. Voltage is dependant on what you have available to you, higher voltage = less current, therefore less copper and. Faster RPM can increase your throughput, but that being said faster RPM decreases your torque. The amount of torque available to you will be determined by the HP of your motor.

Alex_recycles and creates

So the shredder I got requires a 1.5kw motor but my outlets don’t give that much

You should run a dedicated circuit for your unit, just keep within the limits of how loaded your panel is. Most worm gears I’ve seen recommend no more of 1800 RPM input, but regardless your kW rating is what you will get out of your motor changing speed and decrease if it is not going to do anything the more “stuff” added between your motor and shredder is going to decrease your efficiency.

Hey I've got a pretty nice geared motor that I'd like to use to power a plastic shredder but I need to design the shredder around that motor. Is there a way to calculate the ideal diameter for the shredder blades based on material I'll be cutting and speed?

6:02 AM

I'm in the maybe rare situation where the construction of a shredder is more avaliable to me

Erosion

Hey I've got a pretty nice geared motor that I'd like to use to power a plastic shredder but I need to design the shredder around that motor. Is there a way to calculate the ideal diameter for the shredder blades based on material I'll be cutting and speed?

The gear motor will connect to the shredder via a coupling. Jaw couplings will allow for different diameter shafts to be coupled together. Is there something different about your gear motor? Can you provide a picture?

10:54 PM

I dont believe it is powerful enough for the shredder designs here

10:55 PM

which is why I am building my own (its also more feasible)

Erosion

which is why I am building my own (its also more feasible)

Gotcha, well regardless of blade size your still going to require the correct amount of torque to shred the material. I would more size the blades on the size of the objects you want in the shredder. That motor is definitely not enough for as per the PP recommendation. If you build a shredder you can maybe shred softer material but that would be a matter of trial and error.

So you're telling me that if I reduce the diameter of the blades it wont change the torque required to shred a specific material

11:25 PM

what is the 'correct' amount of torque btw just curious

11:25 PM

because that statement doesnt make much sense to me

Erosion

because that statement doesnt make much sense to me

Well I'm by no means an expert on this but looking at the smaller shredder the blades are already not that big diameter wise now when your shredding the material it could fall anywhere on the diameter of the blade, if its farther out from the center of rotation I imagine it will take more torque but if the material is at the closest point to center of rotation it can be it will be the least amount of torque, I just don't believe the difference is that big that if you made the blades smaller it will allow you to shred harder material with a smaller motor. On the PP website they recommend 300 Nm minimum torque, I looked up that specific motor from your picture and its MAX output torque is 385 in-lb (43.5 Nm). Anyways I don't have any maths to backup my statement maybe someone with more experience on the subject can chime in. Based of personal experience i tried to get away with a smaller motor and different use of power transmission and it didn't work out well for me and I just ended up wasting time and effort on the whole thing to just end up getting the recommended stuff. But i would be very interested if you find a way to make the shredder run reliably with a smaller motor, and would help out alot of people trying to get into plastic recycling. (edited)

Ill give it a shot, I am coming from using paper shredders and modding that thing and having it break.

2:03 AM

and when I say small blades I mean quite a bit smaller, so probably half or more than half the diameter of the recommended

2:09 AM

2:10 AM

the blades are currently 60mm dia

2:10 AM

has a shorter tooth so that it grabs less material (edited)

2:11 AM

The idea for this machine is to take larger chippings and granulate them further

2:11 AM

and/or raw materials that are not constructed with thick walls

2:12 AM

I may reduce the diameter even further to protect the motor

2:12 AM

throughput is not relevant in this application, the extruder would never be able to keep up with it

Ah sorry to hop in late, so just for reference, precious plastic shredder runs at 70rpm. If you're running a 1.5kw motor and have a proper gear ratio to run at 70rpm, great. If you run a lower power motor, you should consider a lower RPM so you have better torque values. And here's my warning: I've seen people run shredders at really high gear ratios so the torque values are around 4x higher than how things are designed as per spec. If you do this, you will break things. Anything after the gearbox output shaft is subjected to torque values far to high in jam situations. If you have a design that has less torque, it's ok but you might find the machine struggles to shred, but you will less likely break parts. My shredder runs at 140rpm (half the torque but twice the rpm) because that's how I got it. It works OK and nothing has broken. It's worth noting that it will get hot and overheat the shredder box when shredding PP or PLA and cause the plastic to melt in the box after around 20 minutes.

1

@Erosion I am using the shredder 2.0 box with two setups. 2.2kw 3phase induction motor 1450rpm and a gear reducer 1:30 with a Variable Frequency Drive. The other one has a 4kw motor, same gearbox with VFD. The VFD allows you to change speed if doing thinner plastics and slow if thicker needing more torque. The VFD requires programming of a Torque compensation Ratio and frequency which is necessary. It basically gives it more grunt at certain frequency/Speeds. Just using a motor with a shredder will end in disappointment. There must be a gear reduction (gearbox or gears) to convert the power of the motor into torque. (edited)

1

Erosion

Click to see attachment 🖼️

@Geoff (PBI NTB) geared

Alex_recycles and creates

So the shredder I got requires a 1.5kw motor but my outlets don’t give that much

Worm gearboxes with a high ratio have bad efficiency. I suggest to use a two stage reducer, for example I use a 3:1 reduction with helical gear between the motor and the worm gearbox, a 30:1, to achieve 90:1 reduction in total. In this way you can use also a higher RPM motor. However the problem doesn't change, it is better to use a 4 pole 1400rpm (1650rpm if you use a 60Hz one) motor, because high rpm means more friction and more energy wasted as heat.

1

Erosion

what is the 'correct' amount of torque btw just curious

I'm running my shredder (that is based on a my design, a lot different from the PP "official" one, with a 1.1kw motor geared to 15rpm (1400rpm motor with 90:1 gearbox). I have about 700Nm with 90mm blades.

That's closer to mine I think

11:04 PM

This motor is 14rpm

11:04 PM

I've since shrunk the blades even more so that it will have an easier time

11:04 PM

Hoping it'll work

Hello again, I'm still lurking up here in Brisbane and I'm posting another request for advice. There are no soft plastic recyclers north of Albury. This means most of it is landfilled, or (if it goes to RedCycle) uses $2,000 of diesel per truckload to either Albury or Melbourne. I have a full 20 foot container of clean plastic bags and I want to process this material through my granulator. To do this effectively, I must densify the plastic film. I have been brainstorming ideas for this for most of this year. 1. Agglomerator - a device similar to a washing machine with static and fixed blades around a rotating drum. Material is placed in the drum which spins at high speed. Friction causes the plastic to soften and densify while the constant action of the blades keeps it from forming one contiguous mass. At some point, cold water is added to the drum which cools and hardens the plastic. The result apparently resembles "plastic popcorn" and can be granulated for more consistent sized pieces. I have not been able to find any example of this process being used in Australia. Agglomeration machines for plastic film are available for sale from China and India for about $AU2,000 but they use 10kW of power or more and weigh hundreds of kg. I wonder if this concept is feasible on a smaller scale?

1:29 PM

2. Quasi-extruder - my latest idea is to use a heat band to create a "hot zone" at 200°C. Plastic bags would be pushed through a tube into this zone where they would become dense and viscous. Pressure from new material entering the hot zone would force the softened plastic through a small nozzle, similar to how a regular extruder works. This thought process evolved through a few stages which I will elaborate for discussion purposes. My original thought was to use a 50mm steel fence post with a screw inside and a 20mm hole in the cap on the end for softened plastic to feed through. Then I thought about dispensing with the screw and just hand feeding the bags into the fence post. A practical experiment to test this led to the realisation that the fence post was too small for me to get my hand inside properly to feed the bags. Not knowing where to find larger steel pipes, I went for a 100mm PVC pipe instead. To avoid melting the pipe, a steel can would be used as the hot zone and the pipe suspended over it with a 5-10mm gap between them. A gap this size would not allow any plastic film to escape but would it be enough to prevent heat from the can melting the pipe? My latest hurdle is to find a suitable heat band. I was going to use baby formula tins for the hot zone but one vendor told me the ribbed sides would make heat transfer very inefficient. In any case, a 150mm heat band was quoted $420 and it uses 2400W! I was hoping for a much cheaper solution with power consumption in the hundreds of watts. 2400W = about $1/hr which is a bit steep. Any comments about either of these methods? Does anybody out there have any other ideas to process soft plastic using a maximum 20A of single phase 240V power? Please don't waste your time telling me not to waste my time with soft plastic.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

Hello again, I'm still lurking up here in Brisbane and I'm posting another request for advice. There are no soft plastic recyclers north of Albury. This means most of it is landfilled, or (if it goes to RedCycle) uses $2,000 of diesel per truckload to either Albury or Melbourne. I have a full 20 foot container of clean plastic bags and I want to process this material through my granulator. To do this effectively, I must densify the plastic film. I have been brainstorming ideas for this for most of this year. 1. Agglomerator - a device similar to a washing machine with static and fixed blades around a rotating drum. Material is placed in the drum which spins at high speed. Friction causes the plastic to soften and densify while the constant action of the blades keeps it from forming one contiguous mass. At some point, cold water is added to the drum which cools and hardens the plastic. The result apparently resembles "plastic popcorn" and can be granulated for more consistent sized pieces. I have not been able to find any example of this process being used in Australia. Agglomeration machines for plastic film are available for sale from China and India for about $AU2,000 but they use 10kW of power or more and weigh hundreds of kg. I wonder if this concept is feasible on a smaller scale?

Hi there d-Wizz. I was looking for a similar solution. Agglomerator or what @Butte (PP Philippines) what researching. Agglomeration using a pellet machine. There are some youtube vids from india showing guys pouring powdered plastic into the pellet machine and pellets coming out. By pellet machine I mean something like this (poultry feed pelletizer). @Butte (PP Philippines) could hopefully chime in here. But the process includes chopping the film first into small flakes (washing if necessary) then feeding into the pellet maker.

Hi @Geoff (PBI NTB), thanks for your response. I have a PP V2.0 shredder which doesn't do very much, but I did try putting plastic bags through it. The result is a very light bulky material which could be good for feeding into another machine for melting or extrusion. The problem with using the shredder is that after a few minutes the blades get hot enough for the plastic to get "gooey" and it clogs up. Also, because the film is so thin, it gets in the miniscule gaps between the blades and becomes almost impossible to remove. When i put some plastic bags in my granulator, they simply wrapped around the rotor and nothing happened. So the material needs to have more substance for the granulator to process it properly. I have thought about cutting the bags into smaller pieces. I guess I could use scissors to cut them up just before feeding them into whatever machine I use to process them. I have rinsed all the bags but some of the have stains which are not easy to remove and I fear this may contaminate the batch. I guess I have to continue experiments to test this. Another problem I face is that the bags are wet after washing and I don't have time or space to hang them out on a line, they are all stored in large bins. 6-12 months later, they are still wet. Wet plastic is very difficult to melt. Will research poultry feed machines :-) thanks for the tip. (edited)

I know plastic bags can be fused together into a thicker sheet with something as simple as a clothing iron, but it's a labor-intensive process so probably not useful at scale. I think I've also seen a PP video where they melt the bags into a brick in the oven press, so if you just wanted a form factor you could shred, maybe you could melt them in an oven? Again, labor intensive and probably not very energy efficient.

11:05 PM

Here's the video I was thinking of, she demonstrates a few techniques for processing the bags: https://youtu.be/LV6Zp9i0mOc

One Army

Create marble from plastic bags #preciousplastic

@Graveheist I have done a few plastic bags with a sandwich press. The results are very good but as you pointed out, it's very labour intensive, and if the bag is wet it takes 5-10 times longer as the moisture has to be steamed out first. I've also contemplated hot rollers and conveyor ovens but the energy use is very high, and it's difficult to prevent melted plastic sticking to everything. Even when using the sandwich press I have to put each bag inside a "sandwich" of baking paper.

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hi there d-Wizz. I was looking for a similar solution. Agglomerator or what @Butte (PP Philippines) what researching. Agglomeration using a pellet machine. There are some youtube vids from india showing guys pouring powdered plastic into the pellet machine and pellets coming out. By pellet machine I mean something like this (poultry feed pelletizer). @Butte (PP Philippines) could hopefully chime in here. But the process includes chopping the film first into small flakes (washing if necessary) then feeding into the pellet maker.

the pellet machine does work, but not great. it needs water or steam injection to keep the material from getting overly hot and making a gummy mess.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

Hi @Geoff (PBI NTB), thanks for your response. I have a PP V2.0 shredder which doesn't do very much, but I did try putting plastic bags through it. The result is a very light bulky material which could be good for feeding into another machine for melting or extrusion. The problem with using the shredder is that after a few minutes the blades get hot enough for the plastic to get "gooey" and it clogs up. Also, because the film is so thin, it gets in the miniscule gaps between the blades and becomes almost impossible to remove. When i put some plastic bags in my granulator, they simply wrapped around the rotor and nothing happened. So the material needs to have more substance for the granulator to process it properly. I have thought about cutting the bags into smaller pieces. I guess I could use scissors to cut them up just before feeding them into whatever machine I use to process them. I have rinsed all the bags but some of the have stains which are not easy to remove and I fear this may contaminate the batch. I guess I have to continue experiments to test this. Another problem I face is that the bags are wet after washing and I don't have time or space to hang them out on a line, they are all stored in large bins. 6-12 months later, they are still wet. Wet plastic is very difficult to melt. Will research poultry feed machines :-) thanks for the tip. (edited)

Hey d-Wizz, yes the PP shredder really seems better for more rigid plastics. So we were thinking of using a chopper, for grass, branches rice stubble, chaff etc. It's like a mulcher but better. Multiple blades swing on a tri-axle at high-speed or the bigger ones just a single axle. Yes they can have fix blades also. Obviously an agglomerator removes this step from the process but the plastic has to be clean.

you can not shred films with a granulator like mine without using a industrial blower to suck the material thru the blades and screen and keep the blades cool or it will melt the plastics too.

2:44 AM

i spoke with a engineer who does build machines that processes this film.

2:45 AM

he told me that the standard commercial process is to use what he calls a 'crammer' to cram the shred flake into the extrusion screw. either a auger or piston.

2:46 AM

it gets extruded into chunks, cooled and granulated again. this helps it to release moisture and keeps it from getting bubbly

2:46 AM

if the plastic flake is too wet, it will make steam bubbles and the machine will get a vapor lock.

2:47 AM

the screw can not push or steam, only plastic (edited)

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

you can not shred films with a granulator like mine without using a industrial blower to suck the material thru the blades and screen and keep the blades cool or it will melt the plastics too.

Thanks @Butte (PP Philippines) for your input here. So perhaps what is needed is something like this pellet machine (meat grinder) which you could heat by installing a heating element like on the extruder? There are ones with the knife on the outside. (edited)

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Thanks @Butte (PP Philippines) for your input here. So perhaps what is needed is something like this pellet machine (meat grinder) which you could heat by installing a heating element like on the extruder? There are ones with the knife on the outside. (edited)

no, yo will only get a mess

3:30 AM

you need to shred it fine with a air assist, and then force the flake into the extrusion with a auger or piston

3:31 AM

I wish there was a better method. talking with someone who has been making these machines for 20+ years this is the least energy intensive and least prone to failures

3:33 AM

this is the only real effective method to get a consistent result

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

no, yo will only get a mess

The meat grinder is an auger that forces the flake along. If that still wont work, So then, going back to the other pellet machine, what if we did install a mister or sprayer aimed at the roller?

This is a vegetable dicer. It has a grid of metal. I wonder if I had a grid of blades like this which were then mounted on a press to shred the film would that be enough to satisfy the extruder? And I also thought about the meat grinder idea last year.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

This is a vegetable dicer. It has a grid of metal. I wonder if I had a grid of blades like this which were then mounted on a press to shred the film would that be enough to satisfy the extruder? And I also thought about the meat grinder idea last year.

Hey d-Wizz, The vegetable slicer idea is an interesting one that is worth a look. I would suggest this, the blades would have to be very sharp, and they will blunt very quickly, but let's say the blades were made of NiChrome (NiCr) like the wire in your toaster or a styrofoam cnc cutter and you run a low voltage DC current through them. Install that at the end of a wide piece of SHS (square hollow section) pipe and plunge to your hearts content. Yes there will be smoke. but maybe a low enough current could reduce the burn factor. You know, like your cryovac or packaging sealer.

@Geoff (PBI NTB) why would there be smoke? If it's because the wire is burning the plastic then I'd want to avoid that. But the idea of using low-voltage DC appeals to me. Let me bring in a comment from another thread for discussion...

10:25 PM

"now a lot of recyclers use a guy with a stick to simply push the plastic film/bags into the hopper/screw, so maybe a similar mechanical arm on a normal extruder might work? as for the heat band, a few months ago somebody had shared a youtube video that showed how to make a homemade heatband directly on the pipe wit kapton tape/mica sheet and heating wire. I thought this method was drastically easier becuase heating/resistance wire is available everywhere and for a low cost." https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQcIZsjFZTA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOf1wKG3DPw

Usman Rais

Hand Molding machine Par Heater Bandhnay Ka Tareeqa

Harsh Heaters work

ceramic band industrial heater

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

@Geoff (PBI NTB) why would there be smoke? If it's because the wire is burning the plastic then I'd want to avoid that. But the idea of using low-voltage DC appeals to me. Let me bring in a comment from another thread for discussion...

I was using a thick piece of NiChrome wire connected to an inverter welder (arc/stick) to cut the fisher & paykel washing machine drums into smaller strips to then fit into the shredder. i wanted the job done quickly so there was some smoke, because, depending on the current/voltage the wire was getting red hot. But the wire retains its strength even under high temp and doesn't corrode. The wire in this video you can buy at jaycar, albeit short lengths (1m+/-). but back to the blades, if they were the same material what's to say you cant force and melt at the same time at low current/voltage through them? something to explore.

That is what I'm thinking too. All the research says that polyethylene melts around 120-140°C but my practical experience suggests 180° or more - although that's without any pressure applied to the plastic. So maybe a wire heated to 130° would be enough to melt/cut wads of film under pressure. I'll look into it.

Maybe check out a hot wire cutter for crafting? Crafters use them to cut foam and you could probably pick up a used one pretty cheap; they might get too hot for plastic film, though.

I bought a "hot knife" last year, hoping I could use it to cut up large plastic items without using a saw (and no sawdust loss). It was way too hot, the fumes of burning plastic were terrible and there was a charred edge on the plastic. So maybe that's not a suitable solution.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

Hello again, I'm still lurking up here in Brisbane and I'm posting another request for advice. There are no soft plastic recyclers north of Albury. This means most of it is landfilled, or (if it goes to RedCycle) uses $2,000 of diesel per truckload to either Albury or Melbourne. I have a full 20 foot container of clean plastic bags and I want to process this material through my granulator. To do this effectively, I must densify the plastic film. I have been brainstorming ideas for this for most of this year. 1. Agglomerator - a device similar to a washing machine with static and fixed blades around a rotating drum. Material is placed in the drum which spins at high speed. Friction causes the plastic to soften and densify while the constant action of the blades keeps it from forming one contiguous mass. At some point, cold water is added to the drum which cools and hardens the plastic. The result apparently resembles "plastic popcorn" and can be granulated for more consistent sized pieces. I have not been able to find any example of this process being used in Australia. Agglomeration machines for plastic film are available for sale from China and India for about $AU2,000 but they use 10kW of power or more and weigh hundreds of kg. I wonder if this concept is feasible on a smaller scale?

For a very inexpensive heat band, try threading ceramic beads on nichrome wire. Result is a flexible string of relatively tightly packed beads that wraps around any size barrel. Works really well on my extruder to spread heat evenly and insulate the wire from the barrel to prevent a short. Once you wrap the barrel, use furnace cement to keep the beads from moving around. The cement is toxic so wear gloves!

BillC

For a very inexpensive heat band, try threading ceramic beads on nichrome wire. Result is a flexible string of relatively tightly packed beads that wraps around any size barrel. Works really well on my extruder to spread heat evenly and insulate the wire from the barrel to prevent a short. Once you wrap the barrel, use furnace cement to keep the beads from moving around. The cement is toxic so wear gloves!

this seems like a very complicated and expensive way to replicate a 10-20usd item.

Graveheist

Maybe check out a hot wire cutter for crafting? Crafters use them to cut foam and you could probably pick up a used one pretty cheap; they might get too hot for plastic film, though.

we process all our big pieces with a 4 inch circular saw blade on the angle grinder. simplest way we could find. We process 300-1000 kilos at a time using this method now. Unfortunately there is plastic sawdust so we have to sweep and then use water to hose it to a spot where we can collect all the bits. But compared to every other method...

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

2. Quasi-extruder - my latest idea is to use a heat band to create a "hot zone" at 200°C. Plastic bags would be pushed through a tube into this zone where they would become dense and viscous. Pressure from new material entering the hot zone would force the softened plastic through a small nozzle, similar to how a regular extruder works. This thought process evolved through a few stages which I will elaborate for discussion purposes. My original thought was to use a 50mm steel fence post with a screw inside and a 20mm hole in the cap on the end for softened plastic to feed through. Then I thought about dispensing with the screw and just hand feeding the bags into the fence post. A practical experiment to test this led to the realisation that the fence post was too small for me to get my hand inside properly to feed the bags. Not knowing where to find larger steel pipes, I went for a 100mm PVC pipe instead. To avoid melting the pipe, a steel can would be used as the hot zone and the pipe suspended over it with a 5-10mm gap between them. A gap this size would not allow any plastic film to escape but would it be enough to prevent heat from the can melting the pipe? My latest hurdle is to find a suitable heat band. I was going to use baby formula tins for the hot zone but one vendor told me the ribbed sides would make heat transfer very inefficient. In any case, a 150mm heat band was quoted $420 and it uses 2400W! I was hoping for a much cheaper solution with power consumption in the hundreds of watts. 2400W = about $1/hr which is a bit steep. Any comments about either of these methods? Does anybody out there have any other ideas to process soft plastic using a maximum 20A of single phase 240V power? Please don't waste your time telling me not to waste my time with soft plastic.

You need to go on to aliexpress.com and do a search for band heaters. They're affordable. If you need something larger like 100mm or so, if you get your hands on a water dispenser (one that uses big plastic jugs) that has a heater function, it likely has a small tank plus a decently sized heater band inside. I use one of these on a mould.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

You need to go on to aliexpress.com and do a search for band heaters. They're affordable. If you need something larger like 100mm or so, if you get your hands on a water dispenser (one that uses big plastic jugs) that has a heater function, it likely has a small tank plus a decently sized heater band inside. I use one of these on a mould.

try Lazada in your country..

Thanks for the suggestions. I was quoted AUD420 for a 100mm heat band. Must be a cheaper solution.

Butte (PP Philippines)

this seems like a very complicated and expensive way to replicate a 10-20usd item.

Actually, it was really easy. No question a heat band is a simpler install, but I couldn't find an inexpensive option that was longer than 90mm. Nichrome, beads and cement were $35 USD.

@BillC your method intrigues me, could you provide more details? I found some ceramic baking beads about $10 but they appear to be whole so do I need to drill a small hole for the wire or can I get beads with holes already? Then I need to know how to connect a power source and how to control temperature. Sorry for all the questions; I know next to nothing about this.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

@BillC your method intrigues me, could you provide more details? I found some ceramic baking beads about $10 but they appear to be whole so do I need to drill a small hole for the wire or can I get beads with holes already? Then I need to know how to connect a power source and how to control temperature. Sorry for all the questions; I know next to nothing about this.

Do you need a direct link? I mean, i'm not sure where you're looking for parts but I think this is what you're asking for and this style is more likely to work for you. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832672523358.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.37e32d76nWVCpi&algo_pvid=30256133-8166-4552-8a3d-19e41005757b&algo_exp_id=30256133-8166-4552-8a3d-19e41005757b-14&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2265333886044%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%219.4%218.27%21%21%21%21%21%402101e9d016636392542306661ebbc5%2165333886044%21sea&curPageLogUid=37mWUR7anui3

8.27US $ 12% OFF|Ljxh 100x30mm/40mm/45mm/50mm/55mm Ceramic Band Hea...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

4:06 AM

if you play with beads, their contact area isn't all that great and you'll for sure need to add good insulation around them to make a little mini-oven around whatever it is you're trying to heat up. I suggest a heater band because the direct contact will allow for a much better heat transfer.

Yes, heat bands do make more sense to me and that link you sent is great, thanks. How are these connected to power source and temperature regulation?

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

Yes, heat bands do make more sense to me and that link you sent is great, thanks. How are these connected to power source and temperature regulation?

You'd connect the band heater(s) to a relay, then that goes to a PID controller that monitors the temperature with a thermocouple or thermistor and cycles the relay on and off to control power to the band heater

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

@BillC your method intrigues me, could you provide more details? I found some ceramic baking beads about $10 but they appear to be whole so do I need to drill a small hole for the wire or can I get beads with holes already? Then I need to know how to connect a power source and how to control temperature. Sorry for all the questions; I know next to nothing about this.

Sure. Links below are the items I purchased for a 150mm barrel - costs have doubled to $50 USD since last year. Also linked instructions for an open source extruder (I didn't build this one, but used the heating barrel). As @waterppk mentioned, no matter what solution you go with you need a relay and PID controller, to manage temperature. For reference, I'm using a 12VDC 12.5A power supply and an Inkbird heat controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RMDZVNO?psc=1

nichrome wire: https://morelectricheating.com/mornich10057-31ga-ni60-31-ga-alloy-675-0089-25ft-bag
ceramic beads (tapered w/ holes): https://www.ebay.com/itm/312729168386
furnace cement: https://www.grainger.com/product/39AT59?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAjwyaWZBhBGEiwACslQo7--Ke9_at3o_mmfSUenaQP3xrYOKBD-ygDdo-98lFZJKL4xDi1yRxoCMRYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Instructions for open source extruder (there are videos that show you how to wrap the barrel and use the cement): https://www.appropedia.org/Recyclebot_v2.3

Inkbird PID Temperature Controller with Relay ITC-100RH

Model Number: ITC-100VH --- One SSR output + One Relay Alarm Output; AC100-240V; ITC-100VL --- One SSR output + One Relay Alarm Output; AC/DC12-24V; ITC-100RH --- One Relay output + One Relay Alarm Output; AC100-240V; ITC-100RL --- One Relay output + One Relay Alarm Output; AC/DC12-24V; Specifica...

31GA-NI60 25 Feet of 31 Gauge NiCr60

600pcs 2mm Dia Ceramic Insulator Bead Tapered Insulation Bead for H...

Features:Insulatsion, high corrosion resistance, scratch proof and Good chemical stability.Mainly used in electric heating elements, protection sheaths, insulators and fish beads for temperature sensors. Specification:Material: CeramicInner Diameter: 2mm / 0.08 inch(Minimum) ; 4mm / 0.16 inch(Maximum)Total Size: 6 x 6mm / 0.24 x 0.24 inch (H*Max...

Recyclebot v2.3

This is a fully automated version of Recyclebot v2.2 with many improved features. Some of the features are: Type of plastic can be selected from the keypad interface and the controller automatically updates the extrusion temperature for the plastic. Extrusion temperature can also be feed by the keypad interface for any type of plastic which can...

Thanks @BillC, I was wondering if a 12V battery could be used. I'll keep researching it. Learning heaps

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

Yes, heat bands do make more sense to me and that link you sent is great, thanks. How are these connected to power source and temperature regulation?

If you're not very knowledgeable with handling electricity, i suggest you find someone who is. You can shock yourself. Here's a PID plus relay, heatsink, and thermocouple. I've used several of these. http://shorturl.at/dnrvX There's different ways to connect this and it depends on how you want to control the heater with an on-off switch or MCB. I'll describe it in english but i assume you might get confused. This is a simple way of doing it, just make sure you're not handling a live wire, make sure its unplugged before you do anything. L= Live (Hot wire) N= Neutral Connect your mains cable to a switch/MCB. Connections where I live don't have polarized plugs which can cause some issues, so I use a 2 pole MCB to make sure everything is shut off and no hot wires are going to buzz me. Power (L + N) connect to PID. Neutral wire connected to the heater bands. Thermocouple connected to proper connections on PID, if connected in reverse you will see the temperature display value go lower when the heaters get hotter. Connect PID to SSR (relay) wires. There is a + and - wire. Connect Hot wire to relay. Connect hot wire (switched) to heater band. Thermocouple needs to be installed securely so it reads an accurate temperature, in some cases you can clamp it down with the heater band. (edited)

1.43US $ 84% OFF|Digital Pid Temperature Controller Thermostat Rex-...

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

Thanks @BillC, I was wondering if a 12V battery could be used. I'll keep researching it. Learning heaps

I don't think the battery will be a good solution and agree with @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug be careful. You do need to understand voltage, amps, wire guage, etc. You might consider mapping out the electrical scheme and asking an electrician or engineer to take a look.

Thanks guys, yes I understand electrical safety and I have a friend who is experienced with that so he will be helping me.

1

Hello Recyclers! What have people's experiences been with REXC100 PID's and overshooting the Set values? I have just completed an injection build and setup the electronics but the PID's seem to overshoot a bit!

Hi! me and my class are working on a project where we are trying to build a shredder for the school we're going to. with this we hope that different branches of the school will be able to build other components of this project and eventually have a fully functioning plastic recycling area. Our only problem right now is that we can't seem to find a download link to the smaller shredder, we are only able to find STEP files and DXF files for the "shredder PRO" is anyone able to point me in the right direction to get my hand on the files for the smaller shredder? or even someone able to give me a link to these files? We hope someone here is able to help us! Thanks in advance!

EDIT: We figured it out, you have to download the big 700MB+ file that includes everything to get the smaller shredder!

(edited)

iyD

Hello Recyclers! What have people's experiences been with REXC100 PID's and overshooting the Set values? I have just completed an injection build and setup the electronics but the PID's seem to overshoot a bit!

Overshooting can be a symptom of the thermocouple being located too far from the heater. I've had no issues using this pid for my extrusion machines, sheet press, or heating pads.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Overshooting can be a symptom of the thermocouple being located too far from the heater. I've had no issues using this pid for my extrusion machines, sheet press, or heating pads.

I was testing off the barrel, will give feedback once everything is properly mounted. Thank once again Ben, you are answering all my questions in every forum today! Thank you

Hi! I already successfully produced HDPE sheets with an oven and a car jack press. Now with PP I get massive holes just below the surface. First it looks fine, but then you can just crack them. Any idea what happened? Air bubbles while melting? Inside the bubbles some flakes are not molten.

7:20 PM

Florian_All_We_Shape

Hi! I already successfully produced HDPE sheets with an oven and a car jack press. Now with PP I get massive holes just below the surface. First it looks fine, but then you can just crack them. Any idea what happened? Air bubbles while melting? Inside the bubbles some flakes are not molten.

My guess would be moisture in the plastic turning to steam and causing a bubble, but I don't have the experience to say for sure

7:24 PM

That or perhaps you need a slightly higher temp

Florian_All_We_Shape

Hi! I already successfully produced HDPE sheets with an oven and a car jack press. Now with PP I get massive holes just below the surface. First it looks fine, but then you can just crack them. Any idea what happened? Air bubbles while melting? Inside the bubbles some flakes are not molten.

Do you have something pressing onto the plastic while melting? Like a weight or something

Temp I measured at the mould was 220 °C. Not sure about moisture - not something you could see. I first let it melt for 45 min., then put a 4 mm sheet of metal on top and heated it for another 45 min. After that I compressed it with the car jack press. Maybe I didn't apply enough pressure with the car jack, but molten plastic came out of the mould all around it.

8:52 PM

1

Per the melting temperatures poster it looks like 220 might be on the low end for PP, you might want to try bumping up to somewhere closer to the middle of its melting range

Graveheist

Per the melting temperatures poster it looks like 220 might be on the low end for PP, you might want to try bumping up to somewhere closer to the middle of its melting range

The chart is not right

Alex_recycles and creates

The chart is not right

Abs melting point is 200 C

Alex_recycles and creates

Abs melting point is 200 C

Florian is using PP, what's the melting range for that?

Graveheist

Florian is using PP, what's the melting range for that?

160 C

10:06 PM

Is when it starts to melt

Florian_All_We_Shape

Click to see attachment 🖼️

not long enough time melt and moisture. even when you think it is dry, it still can have moisture. plastic lumber shops solve this by extruding, which drives off moisture, but leaves bubbles, then they shred that and re-grind it and make the lumber.

2:36 AM

you can also get a commercial dryer from robot digg, but they are heavy for shipping from china

Florian_All_We_Shape

Hi! I already successfully produced HDPE sheets with an oven and a car jack press. Now with PP I get massive holes just below the surface. First it looks fine, but then you can just crack them. Any idea what happened? Air bubbles while melting? Inside the bubbles some flakes are not molten.

Usually I let my sheet press run for 20-30 minutes but without pressure. You can gap the top heater a little bit so there's still heat getting to the plastic. After said time, I add the pressure. By this point any moisture should have escaped and not bubble. Your second photo is good and usually yeilds good results. There could be something else going on to, my moulds are different than yours which might create different results.

It's difficult to say what the problem is

Good points to think about. It might also happened because that sheet I put on top after like 45 minutes was too cold. I'll give it a second try extending the time, heating the top sheet and applying a bit more pressure.

Florian_All_We_Shape

Good points to think about. It might also happened because that sheet I put on top after like 45 minutes was too cold. I'll give it a second try extending the time, heating the top sheet and applying a bit more pressure.

Just for clarification: Sheet press is like a sandwich and has layers. Top heater Top mould plate mould + plastic Bottom plate Bottom heater. I place small pieces of wood (2cm x 2cm x whatever length i find) in on top of my mould. This allows my top plate to hover over the material and when i close the machine down, it heats up the top plate. I'm not sure how well this works in a 1m x 1m sheet press. But it is helpful

This is a plastic agglomerator in action. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9frTQ0uChbo I've known about these machines for about a year now and the more I research plastic film recycling I keep coming back to them, but it seems there is no small scale option available. The smallest unit I've seen draws a whopping 15kW of power which is more than twice the available supply here. Can anybody tell me if there is any reason why a motor of say 5-6kW is insufficient for a machine like this?

PLASTIC RECYCLING MACHINE FACTORY Elant

Agglomerator machine, Densifier machine

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

This is a plastic agglomerator in action. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9frTQ0uChbo I've known about these machines for about a year now and the more I research plastic film recycling I keep coming back to them, but it seems there is no small scale option available. The smallest unit I've seen draws a whopping 15kW of power which is more than twice the available supply here. Can anybody tell me if there is any reason why a motor of say 5-6kW is insufficient for a machine like this?

It looks like a big blender right ? I would be interesting to know a bit their blade system. And after I guess you can go all the way down to a kitchen blender, and anything in between (it is just a matter of productivity).

This video has more detailed view of the machine. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=B01NJJIA5FU They are not that expensive ($3k or so) but the power consumption is just crazy, and they're very heavy. It is a bit like a cross between a blender and a washing machine

WANROOETECH-Shredder Solutions

Plastic Film Agglomerator Plastic Densifier Machine Plastic Compact...

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug not sure what exactly you meant where you put the pieces of wood and what they are good for. My setup is quite the same except that I have to take the complete mould out and then compress.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

This is a plastic agglomerator in action. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9frTQ0uChbo I've known about these machines for about a year now and the more I research plastic film recycling I keep coming back to them, but it seems there is no small scale option available. The smallest unit I've seen draws a whopping 15kW of power which is more than twice the available supply here. Can anybody tell me if there is any reason why a motor of say 5-6kW is insufficient for a machine like this?

I have been looking at them too. I saw a unit that was built with circular saw blades and the body was a propane or air compressor tank. it is essentially just like a food processor. there are moving blades like saw blades or lawnmower blades, and fixed blades to act like the anvil. as far as motor goes, maybe a small gas or diesel engine would work? they also require some water to lube the mass and keep heat from getting too hot making it melt.

2:08 AM

i was told by someone in the industry that they can be tricky to get running properly and when they fail you get a mass of hard plastic in it that will require the entire machien to be disassembled, and the plastic that is stuck on everything removed

7:41 AM

I am looking forward to make my own extruder screws, because I want to recycle failed 3d prints and produce filament locally. The printer had to work for that as well, because I had to change the gears to achieve a higher pitch

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Thanks a lot Ben! I reckoned it should look like that. I tried it in a similar way now.

Florian_All_We_Shape

Thanks a lot Ben! I reckoned it should look like that. I tried it in a similar way now.

I haven't had the bubble issues that you're having since I started using this method. But there's always some air that still gets trapped, we can only do so much.

https://youtube.com/shorts/TyUIXAHgKbE

Precious Plastic Philippines

extrusion

5:08 AM

After several years of using a stick to push the shred plastic into the extrusion machine, I finally built one of these. I do not know why I did not do this before.

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

This is a plastic agglomerator in action. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9frTQ0uChbo I've known about these machines for about a year now and the more I research plastic film recycling I keep coming back to them, but it seems there is no small scale option available. The smallest unit I've seen draws a whopping 15kW of power which is more than twice the available supply here. Can anybody tell me if there is any reason why a motor of say 5-6kW is insufficient for a machine like this?

I have one, you need big engines cause the torque you need is a lot, and the volume you use is also not small + when the plastic is aglomerade it's like big fluffy mass

2

Guys, do you sell here screw and barrel or any suggestions where to? I need a screw 120mm diameter + 2,5mts long and the barrel

Oscar Cornejo

Guys, do you sell here screw and barrel or any suggestions where to? I need a screw 120mm diameter + 2,5mts long and the barrel

we can talk about it, guess it would come to where are you located?

To Perú, port of Paita

Oh nice, im in mexico

I have a question

10:34 AM

I’m from Brunei and finding equipment can go from impossible to extremely expensive. Is there a way we can build a shredder?

Hi

ShakiraHips

I’m from Brunei and finding equipment can go from impossible to extremely expensive. Is there a way we can build a shredder?

The web page from precious plastic, shows you everything also you can download the Kit with all the details, otherwise there is a video that shows you how you can build a shredder with less than 70 bucks without the motor.

1

ShakiraHips

I’m from Brunei and finding equipment can go from impossible to extremely expensive. Is there a way we can build a shredder?

Yes and no. It depends on you and your skillset and the tools you have. You can download the starterkit you wish to have, but it might be a bit overwhelming unless you've worked on things like this before. According to google, there's several machine shops in Brunei however I doubt they have any experience with Precious Plastic machines. I'm not sure how expensive things are in Brunei, but i think maybe it's a little cheaper if you're able to source something from Sabah or Sarawak but then again, i dont know how much customs is over there. I did see a machine in Singapore that was built by the sea monkey project in Malaysia. I'm not sure what they're up to these days but maybe their prices are okay? https://www.instagram.com/seamonkeyproject/

2:37 PM

For building a shredder you'll need parts that are laser cut and other parts that are created on a lathe. The rest one can do with a grinder, drill, and welder.

Oh that’s interesting

2:38 PM

Thank you. I was just unsure if we should build one or buy one. I’ve read somewhere that someone used an industrial type of paper shredder and it works just as well

2:39 PM

Or a tyre shredder. Then again those are huge industrial types that we have here. Defo not for small start ups

In Indonesia i noticed that most recyclers that shred plastic us a style much different than what Precious Plastic has. I don't know if you guys have tukang sampah over there that you can ask about where plastic waste goes and follow the trail.

2:42 PM

If you buy one, it's better to buy from someone who knows what they are doing. If you build one, at least you know how it goes together if/when it breaks down.

1

ShakiraHips

I’m from Brunei and finding equipment can go from impossible to extremely expensive. Is there a way we can build a shredder?

I am in the Philippines, Metro Manila, I can check shipping from here if you like. Our prices are pretty good.

Butte (PP Philippines)

I am in the Philippines, Metro Manila, I can check shipping from here if you like. Our prices are pretty good.

Thanks! We’re going to find out if we can source it locally first. There are some old recycling companies that didn’t survive during the pandemic so we’re going to see if we can get things second hand!

no prob, although generally when you are looking at the industrial shredders, they are much larger than the precious plastic design as far as power requirement. Plastic Flamingo, a new plastic lumber shop near me is running 50hp ac motor in their shredder and 10mm flake.

1

@Oscar Cornejo re: agglomerator, does this mean that the concept does not work for small batches, say 5kg at a time?

Butte (PP Philippines)

no prob, although generally when you are looking at the industrial shredders, they are much larger than the precious plastic design as far as power requirement. Plastic Flamingo, a new plastic lumber shop near me is running 50hp ac motor in their shredder and 10mm flake.

That’s a decent size shredder! We were thinking more of small scale, just for educational purposes and then get schools to lead where companies can sponsor etc. I think it’s a great community drive.

ShakiraHips

That’s a decent size shredder! We were thinking more of small scale, just for educational purposes and then get schools to lead where companies can sponsor etc. I think it’s a great community drive.

We have dabbled in the bigger machines, but for our target market, the bigger units are already sold by several local companies. So we are mainly specializing on 5hp and 3hp machines for the time being. We do plan on expanding the product line to include plastic baling machines in the near future.

1

https://youtu.be/Kv72UHO-0c8

STEM Learning By Doing

Make a COOL Plastic SHREDDER For under 70 Bucks!

2:49 PM

That's the video I told you

d-Wizz (PP Taringa)

@Oscar Cornejo re: agglomerator, does this mean that the concept does not work for small batches, say 5kg at a time?

Well, I don't think that you can use a small motor cause normally the plastic bags need big Torque to get shredded. I had issues including with my "big" shredder of 15hp processing 5-10kg, you can try with 1kg

Oscar Cornejo

https://youtu.be/Kv72UHO-0c8

I saw that

Guys, when is the meeting ?

its at 1

4:16 PM

where I live

Today right? Through this channel? Where do you live ? So I can join

yes it is today

5:03 PM

it is in the meeting room

Has anyone made themselves an extruder and can speak to what they used to join the screw shaft to their motor? I'm struggling to join a 14mm keyed shaft to a 3/4" bore sprocket (edited)

wacomd

Has anyone made themselves an extruder and can speak to what they used to join the screw shaft to their motor? I'm struggling to join a 14mm keyed shaft to a 3/4" bore sprocket (edited)

chain flex coupler. you get them without the hole and you have a shop machine them to the shafting you use.

1

Oscar Cornejo

Well, I don't think that you can use a small motor cause normally the plastic bags need big Torque to get shredded. I had issues including with my "big" shredder of 15hp processing 5-10kg, you can try with 1kg

the saw blade design by jeremy fielding on YT shows some promise, but you will need a lot more refinement. I did see a similar design with big circular saw blades being used to process beach plastic on YT but lately the YT search will only show a few results.

wacomd

Has anyone made themselves an extruder and can speak to what they used to join the screw shaft to their motor? I'm struggling to join a 14mm keyed shaft to a 3/4" bore sprocket (edited)

For sure, I used a Doble chain, I will upload a picture later

1

3:29 AM

I started running with 17 then changed to 36- or 37, then 81 and 100 rpm now, and everything is going well with the sprockets and double chain.

I should have asked here first. I've got a flexible 14mm to 19mm spider coupling that worked for a bit but it had no keyway so eventually it slipped. I actually found a rigid version with a keyway that's flying in soon, but honestly I think it's the only manufacturer that has anything close off the shelf

chain flex couplers you can have a local auto machine shop do on the lathe. very standard kind of work even in thrid world.

2

Hi folks! I'm wondering if there's a way to build the barrel holder for the PP extrusion machine (the welded structure in this picture) out of T-slotted framing (https://www.mcmaster.com/T-Slotted-Framing). Has anyone done that by chance?

adamj537

Hi folks! I'm wondering if there's a way to build the barrel holder for the PP extrusion machine (the welded structure in this picture) out of T-slotted framing (https://www.mcmaster.com/T-Slotted-Framing). Has anyone done that by chance?

Hi yeah, we made a system using steel laser cut plates along with a beam framework.

CitSciWorkshop

Hi yeah, we made a system using steel laser cut plates along with a beam framework.

Were the beams T-slotted or something else? Was any welding required? (edited)

T-slotted yes and our goal was to provide a robust frame without needing to weld it.

CitSciWorkshop

T-slotted yes and our goal was to provide a robust frame without needing to weld it.

Is there any documentation you're willing to share? Maybe an assembly drawing, picture, or BOM?

adamj537

Is there any documentation you're willing to share? Maybe an assembly drawing, picture, or BOM?

Sure thing, FR sent

We are having a problem with our injection moulding machine which is that the plunger is completaly stuck inside the barrel. We have tried using three people and the lever to get it up to no avail. We also heated it up to around 300°C to competaly melt the plastic as we were pushing but it did not budge. Now we partly disassembled it and tried to move it by screwing it which kinda worked in the sense that it moved horizontally but not verticly as we want. Do you guys have any suggestions? Is this something that has happened to anyone before?

11:05 AM

11:06 AM

You don't have heating elements on the bottom of your barrel ?? Maybe the plastic is just not melting down there.

M0lnet

We are having a problem with our injection moulding machine which is that the plunger is completaly stuck inside the barrel. We have tried using three people and the lever to get it up to no avail. We also heated it up to around 300°C to competaly melt the plastic as we were pushing but it did not budge. Now we partly disassembled it and tried to move it by screwing it which kinda worked in the sense that it moved horizontally but not verticly as we want. Do you guys have any suggestions? Is this something that has happened to anyone before?

You have some very odd placement of the heaters. Please move them so they look like this, and try heating it up.

@sonik @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug My bad, should have mentioned that we moved the heating elements from their original positions in order to concentrate the heat in the place where the plunger is stuck. Because the plunger is just a few cm from the hole where you put in the plastic and our current theory is that plastic has been squeezed around the plunger and thus making it stuck. Though our new heating element positioning did not in fact help.

M0lnet

@sonik @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug My bad, should have mentioned that we moved the heating elements from their original positions in order to concentrate the heat in the place where the plunger is stuck. Because the plunger is just a few cm from the hole where you put in the plastic and our current theory is that plastic has been squeezed around the plunger and thus making it stuck. Though our new heating element positioning did not in fact help.

Are you sure the plastic is 100% melted from the entire barrel, even below the jam? If there's plastic sealing the bottom it might be stuck due to air pressure

@Graveheist We can see the bottom of the plunger from the injection hole so air pressure should not be a problem

M0lnet

@Graveheist We can see the bottom of the plunger from the injection hole so air pressure should not be a problem

Weird! Maybe some contaminant got into the barrel and got stuck? I can't think of what else could be jamming it so tightly. Can you push the plunger back down but just not pull it up, or is it completely stuck vertically?

1

9:25 PM

As a last resort you could try squirting a lubricant like WD-40 in the hole where the plastic goes in, just make sure you clean it out really well before turning the heaters on again...

@Graveheist It could also be some kind of rust in the inside of the barrel. Considering it has been sitting for quite a while waiting for the moulds to arrive. No the plunger is completely locked vertically. We have thought about using WD-40 but decided against it considering it might be a fire hazard. But might be the only thing we have left to try.

M0lnet

@Graveheist It could also be some kind of rust in the inside of the barrel. Considering it has been sitting for quite a while waiting for the moulds to arrive. No the plunger is completely locked vertically. We have thought about using WD-40 but decided against it considering it might be a fire hazard. But might be the only thing we have left to try.

If the plunger is seized in the barrel (metal to metal wear) I think it can be impossible to remove it, at least without damaging it.

Yesterday I finished to assemble my shredder, after some corrections to the original design. Someone said it is overkill (quench tempered and nitrided blades made from 39NiCrMo3 steel, rotary ones machined from solid bar, 0.03mm between the rotary blades and 0.3mm between rotary and static ones etc), but it is a lot more efficient since it is cutting the plastic instead of shredding it. It is running on a 1.1kw motor, with VFD, with NO torque boost from it, if the nominal current is surpassed, frequency goes down. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cjd2ANMjdtQ/?igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

3

We are starting building a plastic baling machine for sale over here on the islands. Since electricity is limited, and funds are limited on the outlying islands, we need to come up with a baling machine that will allow economical shipping of plastic back to Manila where it can be recycled.

3:12 AM

At present a lot goes into the ocean or wasted because it simply can not be packed into dense compact cubes for shipping and make it profitable.

Hello P.P enthusiastics!!. I am not sure if this is the right section to inquire but I am trying to design a shredder from scratch and the only requirement I got is the volume of the incoming material to be shredded. At the moment of start calculating the diameter of the shaft, as I don't know the weight of the shaft or the blades, what equation or way to get the diameter should I take as I don't possess a lot of info so far?... Thank you for your help, people!!

(edited)

ZordMaster2020

Hello P.P enthusiastics!!. I am not sure if this is the right section to inquire but I am trying to design a shredder from scratch and the only requirement I got is the volume of the incoming material to be shredded. At the moment of start calculating the diameter of the shaft, as I don't know the weight of the shaft or the blades, what equation or way to get the diameter should I take as I don't possess a lot of info so far?... Thank you for your help, people!!

(edited)

why would you try designing a machine from scratch with little engineering expertise when there are 2 well established proven PP shredder designs available?

3:57 AM

I have 300+ v3 machines in circulation just here in the Philippines. very few have broken

Butte (PP Philippines)

why would you try designing a machine from scratch with little engineering expertise when there are 2 well established proven PP shredder designs available?

Hello Butte, more than anything for educational purposes. I want to know how to calculate shafts and blades based on different materials and geometries. That's all. I couldn't find the design calculations (step by step). I don't want to copy, I want to learn.

our engineer did simulations in ANSYS software.

M0lnet

We are having a problem with our injection moulding machine which is that the plunger is completaly stuck inside the barrel. We have tried using three people and the lever to get it up to no avail. We also heated it up to around 300°C to competaly melt the plastic as we were pushing but it did not budge. Now we partly disassembled it and tried to move it by screwing it which kinda worked in the sense that it moved horizontally but not verticly as we want. Do you guys have any suggestions? Is this something that has happened to anyone before?

Have you tried as a last resource to put the machine horizontally and hammer the plunger out? You can use a small solid bar or something similar thats long enough for you to reach the end of the plunger and hammer

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

If the plunger is seized in the barrel (metal to metal wear) I think it can be impossible to remove it, at least without damaging it.

Otherwise unfortunately this could be the problem

(edited)

How small do you shred your HDPE prior to use in the extruder pro? We are finding that the single screw shredder with with mesh is needed to grind the HDPE into a small enough size so that the polymer will actually flow into the extruder. This process is rather slow. If the single screw grinder is used without the screen the grinded HDPE is too coarse to feed into the extruder. Much faster (4x) but the sizes are too large. The HDPW is "caking" and will not flow into the extruder. Has anyone experimented with the grind size of the HDPE to determine maximum size? Watching the video about making HDPE filament for 3D printer is a good example of our issue. In the video the grind is quite large compared to what we can actually use.

TravisQ

How small do you shred your HDPE prior to use in the extruder pro? We are finding that the single screw shredder with with mesh is needed to grind the HDPE into a small enough size so that the polymer will actually flow into the extruder. This process is rather slow. If the single screw grinder is used without the screen the grinded HDPE is too coarse to feed into the extruder. Much faster (4x) but the sizes are too large. The HDPW is "caking" and will not flow into the extruder. Has anyone experimented with the grind size of the HDPE to determine maximum size? Watching the video about making HDPE filament for 3D printer is a good example of our issue. In the video the grind is quite large compared to what we can actually use.

we grind to below 6mm. also it has to be very dry and the shred should have clean sharp edges. bridging is what it is called when the material will not flow. We use a 14 watt 30rpm gear motor to stir the plastic flake and make it flow into the machine.

Butte (PP Philippines)

we grind to below 6mm. also it has to be very dry and the shred should have clean sharp edges. bridging is what it is called when the material will not flow. We use a 14 watt 30rpm gear motor to stir the plastic flake and make it flow into the machine.

Thanks for the note. What type of setup do you have to stir the flake? Is it mounted on the funnel?

Butte (PP Philippines)

we grind to below 6mm. also it has to be very dry and the shred should have clean sharp edges. bridging is what it is called when the material will not flow. We use a 14 watt 30rpm gear motor to stir the plastic flake and make it flow into the machine.

Another question @Butte (PP Philippines) - do you ever obtain ground plastic below 6mm on the extruder pro? We run our plastic through 3 times (without screen) and we are no where near 6mm. We have found the only way to get around 6mm is to use the single screw grinder with the screen. Do you know if anyone has made a single screw grinder longer? Instead of the 140 mm grinder, make it three times longer. Need to make sure the motor can handle the longer length.

@sonik @Graveheist @Carolina @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna Thought I'd give you an update regarding the stuck plunger. It was rust inside the barrel which combined with the heat and molten plastic bonded with the plunger and was completely stuck. We got it out eventually but not without damaging it. A replacement is already on its way

2

Sorry to hear about the damage, but good to know you got it resolved! I hope the replacement arrives quickly.

TravisQ

Another question @Butte (PP Philippines) - do you ever obtain ground plastic below 6mm on the extruder pro? We run our plastic through 3 times (without screen) and we are no where near 6mm. We have found the only way to get around 6mm is to use the single screw grinder with the screen. Do you know if anyone has made a single screw grinder longer? Instead of the 140 mm grinder, make it three times longer. Need to make sure the motor can handle the longer length.

I had a Dutch workaway engineer visit the shop and design a industrial 5hp granulator because the shredder pro was too expensive to build and sell locally. if you check out the Precious Plastic Philippines page you can see it and there is a double size v3 shredder there also. It has a 5hp motor with belt pulley speed reduction. it has run 6-8 hours per day for a couple years, shredding foam insulation scraps.

TravisQ

Another question @Butte (PP Philippines) - do you ever obtain ground plastic below 6mm on the extruder pro? We run our plastic through 3 times (without screen) and we are no where near 6mm. We have found the only way to get around 6mm is to use the single screw grinder with the screen. Do you know if anyone has made a single screw grinder longer? Instead of the 140 mm grinder, make it three times longer. Need to make sure the motor can handle the longer length.

You really need to use a screen. I can't stress this enough. Use a screen, use a screen, use a screen. This saves so much time. I have an extrusion (not pro) machine that had an extrusion screw that was not built properly, the depth of the feed zone was too shallow. So i would have to shred my plastic 15 times without a screen/filter to get the proper size. Even then there might be some pieces that are too large that would sneak through and cause feed issues. Use a screen. I have an extrusion pro now and it takes shredded plastic that is screened (shredded one time) without much of an issue. I need to measure the mesh but i think its 6mm.

also a good idea to put some big magnets inside your extrusion hopper. Mine catches a LOT of metal shards. More than I expected

5:32 AM

progress on our baling machine

5:34 AM

For baling PET bottles to sell to Coke Philippines. We are working on supplying these to the local junk shops via the local recycling association. Coke opened a new PET recycling factory near us to process 30,000 tons of PET bottles per year. We have been doing a lot of projects over the last year directly and indirectly funded by Coke.

Butte (PP Philippines)

progress on our baling machine

Awesome @Butte (PP Philippines) !

10:34 AM

So this is completely manual?

10:34 AM

@Yann

Joseph

@Yann

yes, powered by a hi-lift jack. unfortunately not finished today, my welder guy is missing in action again

How will you make the bottom, the back and the top moving plates ? On the standard balers they have some sort of grooves so you can pass a strap around the bale while maintained compressed. (edited)

10:17 AM

Super cool machine by the way !

Does anyone know a website to get couples for the shredder?

Hi ! Does anyone have already recycled fishing nets ? I would be interested in knowing if it worked with the shredder or you modificated it

(edited)

Alex_recycles and creates

Does anyone know a website to get couples for the shredder?

It is always depending on the country, so I guess you are looking for the US right ? A quick search on google seems to say you can find the HRC couplings on "ebay" or on "boston engineering", but there might be other website. Try to search using the exact reference of the coupling (indicated in the BOM).

Chloé

Hi ! Does anyone have already recycled fishing nets ? I would be interested in knowing if it worked with the shredder or you modificated it

(edited)

It worked well with the shredder basic (not the PRO) when I tried.

Yann

It worked well with the shredder basic (not the PRO) when I tried.

did you had to cut the nets a bit before ? and how did you cleaned it ?

6:08 PM

and did you succeed making products with the injection with it ?

They were clean already, and it was small piece, not a full net at once (this shredder also has a relatively small hopper, don't hope to put a full net at once !). In the injection it melted fine, at a slightly higher temperature than usual (230°C)

Yann

They were clean already, and it was small piece, not a full net at once (this shredder also has a relatively small hopper, don't hope to put a full net at once !). In the injection it melted fine, at a slightly higher temperature than usual (230°C)

Was it Polypropylene?

Nope polyamide

@TravisQ asked about Shredder Pro : Looking for some help on shredder pro. https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro The above link indicates that a different mesh size should be used for a different sized flake. We use a mesh on the single sized screw to obtain good results. When we use a mesh on the twin screw just below the shredder there is no pull up from below to continue the shredding until it falls through the mesh. There is roughly 5 mm gap between between the mesh and shredder wheels. Should this be smaller? With no material being swept back up for regrind what are we doing wrong? We have found there needs to be regrind in the twin screw or the mesh will be plugged with first grind until the mesh breaks. In the 3D drawing there is no mesh shown. Should there be a mesh? https://workbench.grabcad.com/workbench/projects/gcUbMRKUCFx7X5PxSFsPZs9Em9RwRsNaz30AJEp-hmriQl#/space/gc5PUkFy1QZe-n49PeCWmCLojw8Y3ieBpX2S96s8tcRKS-/link/3346475 (edited)

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

GrabCAD

The GrabCAD platform drives additive manufacturing at scale through connected solutions, including GrabCAD Print, GrabCAD Shop & the GrabCAD SDKs.

10:49 PM

True, I also experienced the same thing, some plastic stopped on fix Blade and clog.

Even without a mesh, the plastic will clog on fix blades

11:27 PM

Precious Plastic Shredder Pro is designed to solve this problem with automatic reverse forward installation

11:29 PM

But I guess I found a better way. With a slight modification of the fixed blade shape

11:34 PM

We cut the fixed blade and make a groove in it

11:34 PM

11:38 PM

And it worked, it made more plastic just go up and cut off a second time

This is the result

Imam Muhsin

This is the result

Thanks! What is the size of plastic you can grind?

@Imam Muhsin very nice modification. i use to got this problem. ant then i totally redesign the fixed blade shape and the structure of cutting box.

How does one connect a metal hand crank to another metal bit without welding or using power tools?

TravisQ

Thanks! What is the size of plastic you can grind?

a 6mm sieve will produce 4-6mm plastic I think..

ShrednMelt_Xu

@Imam Muhsin very nice modification. i use to got this problem. ant then i totally redesign the fixed blade shape and the structure of cutting box.

Thanks, and what does your new design look like?

Imam Muhsin

Thanks, and what does your new design look like?

the fixed blades are not fixed anymore. it can move alone the edge.

1

Yann

They were clean already, and it was small piece, not a full net at once (this shredder also has a relatively small hopper, don't hope to put a full net at once !). In the injection it melted fine, at a slightly higher temperature than usual (230°C)

Ok thanks a lot Yann ! did you had a specific motor ? I heard from some that a power of 11kW is needed even if the precious plastic website recommends 5kW...

Chloé

Ok thanks a lot Yann ! did you had a specific motor ? I heard from some that a power of 11kW is needed even if the precious plastic website recommends 5kW...

The power alone doesn’t really give much information, it depends on the shredder type. And even though, it is mostly related to the output you can reach (more power more output) The small shredder run on 1,5 or 2,2, and it works fine. Don’t expect crazy output, it is not made for that ! Probably around 10 to 15kg / hour for the fishing nets. The shredder PRO has more power/output, but I don’t think a double axe system will be suited for nets. To summarise PP basic shredder will be good for small project / testing out what you want to do. If you just want to shred tons of fishing nets, then you will have to look at bigger machinery.

It works well with 4 HP (3 kW) motor, 1/100 gear reduction

7:03 PM

Cool

Imam Muhsin

It works well with 4 HP (3 kW) motor, 1/100 gear reduction

What coupler dimensions do you have ?

ShrednMelt_Xu

the fixed blades are not fixed anymore. it can move alone the edge.

From my (small) experience I saw that with fixed blades with the inferior edge line passing to the center of the axis some plastic tend to get stuck between the edge and the side of the rotary ones. On my design I solved it shaping the fixed blade to have the inferior line tangent to the spacer diameter.

9:32 PM

3

Alex_recycles and creates

What coupler dimensions do you have ?

KC 5018, but better if you use a bigger one.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Click to see attachment 🖼️

look awsome!

1

Just built a recycled plastic hopper for my shredder

6

5

Does anyone have info for a low end shredder setup? Looking to get setup with low production filament making and recycling but haven't found a plan more suitable to my budget. Looking for $300 or less (edited)

Hi can anyone help in fixing required motor torque for extruder version 3.

aravin

Hi can anyone help in fixing required motor torque for extruder version 3.

2 HP/ 1,5 kW Power with 1/40 reduction. (35 rpm)

What thickness of material have your various machines been suitable for? I'm trying to work out what strength of machine I'd need to process sheet acrylic scraps (3mm thick)

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

What thickness of material have your various machines been suitable for? I'm trying to work out what strength of machine I'd need to process sheet acrylic scraps (3mm thick)

best is to look into @theoffcutstudio IG page! she works with acrylic and makes amazing sheets. We cant really recycle acrylic with out melting methods (extrusion or injection) but it works pretty well with the sheetpress (edited)

Carolina

best is to look into @theoffcutstudio IG page! she works with acrylic and makes amazing sheets. We cant really recycle acrylic with out melting methods (extrusion or injection) but it works pretty well with the sheetpress (edited)

Thanks! Sheet press is exactly what I have in mind, and we have the melting aspect all sorted - at least theoretically! - so I'm now trying to work out an appropriate gauge machine to get the shreddings into a suitable state.

1:48 PM

I've had a look at the Offcut studio and it seems that Lucy is - totally understandably - quite private about the specifics of her methods, offering paid consultancy but I'm not really in a position to be able to do that right now

1:48 PM

So I'm digging around and watching every video, reading every document I can find

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

I've had a look at the Offcut studio and it seems that Lucy is - totally understandably - quite private about the specifics of her methods, offering paid consultancy but I'm not really in a position to be able to do that right now

on my understanding she offers online workshops to teach people how to do it

here's a little video she made a while ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwFaiSAS8k4 (edited)

One Army Community

How to recycle acrylic

Carolina

on my understanding she offers online workshops to teach people how to do it

here's a little video she made a while ago https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwFaiSAS8k4 (edited)

This is one of the first videos I saw about acrylic recycling a few years ago once I started researching

From what I understand her paid videos specifically say they don't cover the whole process, and to book a consultancy for more. (To be clear, I'm totally not questioning that she's charging for these things, it's her speciality, but I'm just not able to do that yet.)

I'd love to build a Shredder Pro like this, which I would imagine must be able to handle 3mm acrylic sheet scraps

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Imam Muhsin

2 HP/ 1,5 kW Power with 1/40 reduction. (35 rpm)

Thank you. I have an existing motor with 120 rpm and 108 Nm torque. Shall i use that? Vfd is also there.

aravin

Thank you. I have an existing motor with 120 rpm and 108 Nm torque. Shall i use that? Vfd is also there.

For a V3 extruder it will do the job, even with the extrusion screws.

aravin

Thank you. I have an existing motor with 120 rpm and 108 Nm torque. Shall i use that? Vfd is also there.

Oh, sorry, I thought for the shredder

For the shredder then, it is a bit too fast and doesn’t have enough torque. You should aim for 60-70rpm and 250-350 Nm

Yann

For the shredder then, it is a bit too fast and doesn’t have enough torque. You should aim for 60-70rpm and 250-350 Nm

The Torque has to be about 300Nm no less

4:52 PM

It can be a bit more

It can be a bit less. And not much more. 300Nm is the target. Less, you might jam, more (over 400), you’ll start breaking parts.

It can handle 400 to 500

5:41 PM

Just tight the bolts

5:42 PM

The motor I got can lift 400 lb max

Sorry i already posted this in "introduce yourself". This is my first time using discord. Hopefully this is the correct forum. I'm building an extruder pro and not sure which way to insert the bearings. The video looks like they insert the opposite direction as they are in the cad. Is this cad image backwards?

Matt D

Sorry i already posted this in "introduce yourself". This is my first time using discord. Hopefully this is the correct forum. I'm building an extruder pro and not sure which way to insert the bearings. The video looks like they insert the opposite direction as they are in the cad. Is this cad image backwards?

Yes, it seems pretty wrong...

I’m looking for couplers for my shredder vs3.3

Alex_recycles and creates

I’m looking for couplers for my shredder vs3.3

You've got a shredder 3.3? How is it? I've been wondering about it and whether you can shred 3mm acrylic in it?

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

You've got a shredder 3.3? How is it? I've been wondering about it and whether you can shred 3mm acrylic in it?

Yeah

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

You've got a shredder 3.3? How is it? I've been wondering about it and whether you can shred 3mm acrylic in it?

It was 600 dollars and I’m still constructing it I have to add the motor to it

Alex_recycles and creates

It was 600 dollars and I’m still constructing it I have to add the motor to it

Awesome, hope it's going well

I got the motor

11:39 PM

I just need couplers

Alex_recycles and creates

I just need couplers

I used a lovejoy coupling, readily available in north America https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/jaw-type-couplings/

lojoyadmin

Jaw Type Couplings - Lovejoy - a Timken company

Jaw Type Couplings Fail-safe — will still perform if elastomer fails No metal to metal contact Resistant to oil, dirt, sand, moisture and grease More than 850,000 combinations of bore sizes Most types available from stock in 24 hours Resources The Jaw Type couplings from Lovejoy

Alex_recycles and creates

I just need couplers

I made a dog clutch from scratch for mine, from quench tempered steel. But the design of the machine is a lot different, since the shredder and the motor are coupled with an interface there are something like no disalignment.

can i power the induction heater on the extruder with solar panels?

done

can i power the induction heater on the extruder with solar panels?

yo can power anything with solar it depends on the watts

Nacnud

I used a lovejoy coupling, readily available in north America https://www.lovejoy-inc.com/products/jaw-type-couplings/

do keys really matter ?? for couplers ??

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I made a dog clutch from scratch for mine, from quench tempered steel. But the design of the machine is a lot different, since the shredder and the motor are coupled with an interface there are something like no disalignment.

I'd like to know more about your design. Are you saying that your machine has a detachable motor, or something else?

I am working on starting a mixed space (washing, shredding, extruding/injecting). We are currently selecting between 3 spaces to use, and the final question is about ventilation. The extruding and injecting setups reference needing a ventilation "caddy". The air is pulled through a filter with an exhaust fan that goes up to a "hood". Does this hood just vent into the same room? Is the room itself supposed to have some ability to vent out? Thanks!

adamj537

I'd like to know more about your design. Are you saying that your machine has a detachable motor, or something else?

My machines are simply re-enginereed because I like to improve what I can. And basically because making something from scratch cost me less, since I can use the machinery of the factory in wich I'm employed. In regard of the dog clutch, I made it to connect the shredder to the motor. I used a solid shaft initially, but the torque is huge and it tend to deform slightly the tab, so I have difficulties in separating the two parts. Putting the dog clutch on the shaft allows me to slide the entire shredder from the motor without effort, and if I want to disconnect the shredder side dog clutch I can use a sliding hammer extractor.

7:48 PM

You can take a look on my Instagram, insta_ventu If you like, please

️+follow!

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

My machines are simply re-enginereed because I like to improve what I can. And basically because making something from scratch cost me less, since I can use the machinery of the factory in wich I'm employed. In regard of the dog clutch, I made it to connect the shredder to the motor. I used a solid shaft initially, but the torque is huge and it tend to deform slightly the tab, so I have difficulties in separating the two parts. Putting the dog clutch on the shaft allows me to slide the entire shredder from the motor without effort, and if I want to disconnect the shredder side dog clutch I can use a sliding hammer extractor.

That sounds like a super useful feature for someone who might tinker with their machine often or wants it to be maintenance-friendly. Any chance you're willing to share a photo or three?

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

You can take a look on my Instagram, insta_ventu If you like, please

️+follow!

I’ll check out your Instagram

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

You can take a look on my Instagram, insta_ventu If you like, please

️+follow!

Oh, I missed this comment! Will do.

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

You can take a look on my Instagram, insta_ventu If you like, please

️+follow!

I started to follow you

1

If needed, I can do some other photos of the parts. The downside of the dog clutch is that it have to work with a precise alignment. I made it coupling the shreedder and the gear motor with an interface composed by two flanges with a tube in between, all welded and then machined to tight tolerances (+/-0.02mm concentricity, +/-0.01 mm parallelism between the flange faces). It is my job, so I find it simple.

Hi all! Finally getting to a point with my business where I can start looking to build the PP machines. I have a machine shop, not looking to sell the machines specifically but wanting to build for community projects. Biggest question I have is on the machine and gear box. I think I've finally figured out the calculations and have landed on these: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/power_transmission_(mechanical)/general_purpose_cast_iron_worm_gearboxes/right_hand_shaft_output/wg-325-060-ra https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381914_200381914

Worm Gearbox: general purpose, 60:1 ratio (PN# WG-325-060-RA) | Aut...

WG-325-060-RA - IronHorse heavy-duty worm gearbox, 60:1 ratio, 56C-Face input, right hand, 1.375in diameter output shaft, nominal 2hp at 1.0 SF, 3127 lb-in...

6:01 PM

Could someone sanity check me before I spend the money on it that I'm in the right direction? Looking at building the shredder pro

6:07 PM

My math puts it at 2710Nm force at 29RPM, but this is my first go at calculating this

I'm not an expert on worm gearboxes, but I tell you what experts told me. 1)The bigger the worm ratio, the fragile is the screw and the worm gear, because higher the ratio means smaller the screw pitch. 2)The bigger the ratio, the smaller is the efficiency (look at the chart). A 71% efficiency means that you have at maximum the 71% of the motor power at the machine axis. They suggested me to buy a cylindrical gearbox reducer to be put before the gearbox. I didn't remember precisely the data and the cost for mine, but basically I decided to run the shreeder on a 90:1 ratio, and if I wanted to use a single worm gearbox I had to choose a bigger (and costly) one, to have a lot less power available at the machine, if I recall correctly the 90:1 I saw have an efficiency of ~50% or less, using a 3:1 cylindrical gear before a 30:1 I have the same total ratio, but using a smaller and cheaper worm gearbox with more resistent internals I have more torque available and more efficiency, if I recall well over 70%. Ask the seller, it is the best way!

1

Hello everyone did someone build the SHRPRO 2.0 (shredder pro) ? I would like to make it but I have few questions about it ! Thank you very much #deleted-channel

fecarian

Hello everyone did someone build the SHRPRO 2.0 (shredder pro) ? I would like to make it but I have few questions about it ! Thank you very much #deleted-channel

I just snagged the files the other day to start looking into building one

Anyone have success turning shredded plastic into yarn like material for clothing/bathing suits? Is it possible to do on your own with a machine? Or would I need to find a textile production factory?

Hi, I am looking to talk with people in the UK who own sheet presses (1m2 or larger) - are there any on here?

Isn’t some one working on a washer v1 a machine to wash the plastic ??

2:54 PM

I remember a meeting about it

Alex_recycles and creates

Isn’t some one working on a washer v1 a machine to wash the plastic ??

Brothers Make seem to put their bottle tops in a fabric bag and stick it in the washing machine

Alex_recycles and creates

Isn’t some one working on a washer v1 a machine to wash the plastic ??

There is this https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/ws---10

WS - 1.0

With this Washing System it is possible to clean dirty shredded plastic with a closed loop system that filters the water so it can be reused for a longer period of time. It works best if you shred your plastic first into big flakes, so you can insert a more uniform batch of plastic into the washing system, where high pressure water jets blast ...

3:16 PM

But keep in mind this a beta version of a potential washing machine, with its own water treatment system

3:16 PM

There is no current development on this one specifically at the moment, that might come with a specific project for it.

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

Brothers Make seem to put their bottle tops in a fabric bag and stick it in the washing machine

Yeah they do that

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

Brothers Make seem to put their bottle tops in a fabric bag and stick it in the washing machine

I just put the bottle caps in a bucket and I stir it with warm water and soap and now I’ll be adding white vinegar

Alex_recycles and creates

I just put the bottle caps in a bucket and I stir it with warm water and soap and now I’ll be adding white vinegar

You can use caustic soda (NaOH) with some water and dirty shredded flakes. It'll clean things up but there's also a hazard if you touch the stuff so wear protective gear. Safer with soap, I've heard of people using citric acid as well.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

You can use caustic soda (NaOH) with some water and dirty shredded flakes. It'll clean things up but there's also a hazard if you touch the stuff so wear protective gear. Safer with soap, I've heard of people using citric acid as well.

Does the soda make it an acid ?

Alex_recycles and creates

Does the soda make it an acid ?

it's a strong base

Will it burn my skin

Alex_recycles and creates

Will it burn my skin

Depends on how strong the dilution is but it likely will cause irritation or burn your skin

How can I dispose of the acid

4:37 PM

Can I leave in in a vat ?

Alex_recycles and creates

Isn’t some one working on a washer v1 a machine to wash the plastic ??

You could always buy a large scale industrial ultrasonic cleaner and try with water. You can pick one up for less than $5,000.

TheGuy

You could always buy a large scale industrial ultrasonic cleaner and try with water. You can pick one up for less than $5,000.

I don’t have that money

Alex_recycles and creates

I don’t have that money

Fair enough I didn't know what size operation you were running. You could spend less on smaller ones and preheat your own water before you pour it in. It just won't have nearly the same amount of volume. So many more batches.

TheGuy

Fair enough I didn't know what size operation you were running. You could spend less on smaller ones and preheat your own water before you pour it in. It just won't have nearly the same amount of volume. So many more batches.

I just use hot water in a HDPE bucket

10:39 PM

With soap

Alex_recycles and creates

With soap

Yea that'll work for sure just more labor intensive but if you aren't cleaning enough to justify equipment that's probably the best way to do it.

I am working on starting a mixed space (washing, shredding, extruding/injecting). We are currently selecting between 3 spaces to use, and the final question is about ventilation. The extruding and injecting setups reference needing a ventilation "caddy". The air is pulled through a filter with an exhaust fan that goes up to a "hood". Does this hood just vent into the same room? Is the room itself supposed to have some ability to vent out? Thanks!

jeff.bush

I am working on starting a mixed space (washing, shredding, extruding/injecting). We are currently selecting between 3 spaces to use, and the final question is about ventilation. The extruding and injecting setups reference needing a ventilation "caddy". The air is pulled through a filter with an exhaust fan that goes up to a "hood". Does this hood just vent into the same room? Is the room itself supposed to have some ability to vent out? Thanks!

Bruh yes you should have ventilation. If it has a hood it should be piped outside. Hobbyist you could get away without but if you are doing it large scale you will want to pull the fumes.

TheGuy

Bruh yes you should have ventilation. If it has a hood it should be piped outside. Hobbyist you could get away without but if you are doing it large scale you will want to pull the fumes.

Thanks. I knew we had ventilation, just not sure about how well these filters would deal with it in place. But it seems like we use a filter like https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Australian-Charcoal-Hydroponics/dp/B07GSKTT86/ref (just picked randomly as an example, haven't actually compared any products yet). That filter is hooked up to an exhaust fan that pull air through it and pushes it out through flexible ductwork to a window pushing going outside.

AC Infinity Air Carbon Filter 6" with Premium Australian Virgin Cha...

AC Infinity Air Carbon Filter 6" with Premium Australian Virgin Charcoal, for Inline Duct Fan, Odor Control, Hydroponics, Grow Rooms

jeff.bush

Thanks. I knew we had ventilation, just not sure about how well these filters would deal with it in place. But it seems like we use a filter like https://smile.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-Australian-Charcoal-Hydroponics/dp/B07GSKTT86/ref (just picked randomly as an example, haven't actually compared any products yet). That filter is hooked up to an exhaust fan that pull air through it and pushes it out through flexible ductwork to a window pushing going outside.

Ventilation only grabs so much and if you leave it internally you are pushing what ever wasn't filtered back into the room depending on how much you run it could make it pretty foggy in there. Even something like that depending on how much you produce probably wouldn't keep up (if you are rolling fumes). I have no idea about the scale of your operation but it sounds like you are bigger than hobbyist. If it is large enough you will probably want something more like a HEPA filter inline with a blower and externally exhaust it. It also depends on if the equipment is contained or in an open area.

https://www.mcmaster.com/exhaust-blowers/blowers-8/ Basically you'd take something like that duct over the equipment run into a box where you can remove/ replace the HEPA filter pipe to the inlet of the blower and exhaust out to the outside.

hi guys i have a question. Is it wise to cool the beam mod suddenly with water immediately after extrusion

12:36 PM

i meen beam mold*

aleksandarmasic92

hi guys i have a question. Is it wise to cool the beam mod suddenly with water immediately after extrusion

its ok as long as you have a container big enough to sumerge the whole beam at once

1

1:37 PM

in the long run the beam mould might get rusty, so keep that in mind

1

Carolina

in the long run the beam mould might get rusty, so keep that in mind

great, thank Youu

️

Carolina

in the long run the beam mould might get rusty, so keep that in mind

but i have to submerge it all at once - it's not right to spray him with a hose right?

aleksandarmasic92

but i have to submerge it all at once - it's not right to spray him with a hose right?

Its ok but you take the risk of it not shrinking evenly so it can deform a bit

Ok, thank you, You re so kind

One more question

sorry guys i know im boring

- i saw many people mixing hdpe and pp for making beams - why is that? is the quality better or easyer extrusion or what? is it ok to use only HDPE? Also i saw someone use some UV protection grannules - if we use recycled plastic i suppose when the objects were made first time aditives was added - is that neccesary for good quality of beams?! p.s i intend to use my beams for park benches and trash cans Thank You

️

aleksandarmasic92

One more question

sorry guys i know im boring

- i saw many people mixing hdpe and pp for making beams - why is that? is the quality better or easyer extrusion or what? is it ok to use only HDPE? Also i saw someone use some UV protection grannules - if we use recycled plastic i suppose when the objects were made first time aditives was added - is that neccesary for good quality of beams?! p.s i intend to use my beams for park benches and trash cans Thank You

️

If you know exactly where your plastic is coming from and are sure it's already had UV stabilizers added, you might not need to add more -- but any plastic that's going to live outside needs UV stabilization or it'll degrade in the sun

1

8:43 PM

As for mixing plastics, it's not recommended because they can have different melting temperatures and properties, and once they're mixed they're a lot harder to recycle again. It can be done, just not ideal.

Graveheist

As for mixing plastics, it's not recommended because they can have different melting temperatures and properties, and once they're mixed they're a lot harder to recycle again. It can be done, just not ideal.

so basicly best is to add Uv protection and to use only HDPE right?? Thank You!

aleksandarmasic92

so basicly best is to add Uv protection and to use only HDPE right?? Thank You!

You might need to mix the plastics depending on what properties you're looking for in the end product, and the recyclability isn't quite as important when you're building really long-lasting things like benches (though it's still good to keep in mind) -- that being said, there's a company in my state that makes plastic lumber out of 100% recycled HDPE and sells it for making decks, harbor docks, etc. so just going with HDPE is definitely doable

1

For those who make plastic sheets, what are the timings for heating the press, making a sheet and letting the sheet cool?

For not massive sheets, and if it matters, I’m most interested in acrylic pmma recycling (edited)

11:04 PM

I was hoping it was reasonably quick but I’m seeing mentions of hours at high pressure for one sheet, which must be crazy energy consumption (though I’d eventually like to solar power this rig) (edited)

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

I was hoping it was reasonably quick but I’m seeing mentions of hours at high pressure for one sheet, which must be crazy energy consumption (though I’d eventually like to solar power this rig) (edited)

Generally 1 hour for heating/melting but it depends on how thick your sheet is. 3mm sheet for HDPE takes me around 25-30 minutes and then I can press. 1cm is closer to 45 minutes. It depends on the machine and what temperatures you set. Working with acrylic?

not sure but timing could be similar. Cooling tends to take longer

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Generally 1 hour for heating/melting but it depends on how thick your sheet is. 3mm sheet for HDPE takes me around 25-30 minutes and then I can press. 1cm is closer to 45 minutes. It depends on the machine and what temperatures you set. Working with acrylic?

not sure but timing could be similar. Cooling tends to take longer

I’m looking at quite a small one, 8x5 inches of material at once so I don’t know if it’ll be faster or slower than that.

12:31 AM

Ideally I’d like to be able to make a good few sheets while the press is hot so I’m not heating and cooling it for every tiny sheet

12:32 AM

And probably have a nearby cooling area so I can swap for the next heating one while the other cools with something heavy on top to stop it warping

thatcanadiangirl (Véro)

And probably have a nearby cooling area so I can swap for the next heating one while the other cools with something heavy on top to stop it warping

You can stack things with the cold press although I must admit results arent perfect when you stack. If you're doing acrylic, I suggest you melt it in an oven, stick it in a press real quick and press it till it forms a sheet. I have a feeling that acrylic will be much quicker to work with for the forming and cooling parts than what we typically deal with for HDPE and PP plastics.

I have a similar question to @thatcanadiangirl (Véro) regarding pressure for a sheet press. I've seen figures from 5psi to 100psi. Some PP machines use little springs or concrete slabs, while others use 4 hydraulic jacks. So, has anyone done any semi-rigorous testing on how much pressure is really needed? If we could figure out the minimum required pressure, we could design the press frame accordingly to minimize steel costs and weight.

nickchomey

I have a similar question to @thatcanadiangirl (Véro) regarding pressure for a sheet press. I've seen figures from 5psi to 100psi. Some PP machines use little springs or concrete slabs, while others use 4 hydraulic jacks. So, has anyone done any semi-rigorous testing on how much pressure is really needed? If we could figure out the minimum required pressure, we could design the press frame accordingly to minimize steel costs and weight.

Well.... Have a look here. Perhaps a bit of reading. Might not answer your question by it provides a means for producing acrylic sheets. https://www.notion.so/paulate/Dinacon-2022-Upcycling-Plastics-and-building-a-DIY-Hydraulic-Press-1f4475d894724582a0f586f0bd95e530

Dinacon 2022: Upcycling Plastics and building a DIY Hydraulic Press

Guides:

TheGuy

https://www.mcmaster.com/exhaust-blowers/blowers-8/ Basically you'd take something like that duct over the equipment run into a box where you can remove/ replace the HEPA filter pipe to the inlet of the blower and exhaust out to the outside.

Thanks for the information! I would say we are somewhere slightly larger than hobbyist. I am in charge of setting up a space as a proof of concept and to demonstrate feasibilty. I have personally worked more on the hobbyist scale so am transitioning to larger now. They are discussing which space to give us to set up and there were a few different places and questions about ventilation came up. One place was in a basement, clearly that doesn't have the ability to vent outside (not without lots more work). We are starting to build all the devices over the next few months as we get the space and there is time (this isn't my full-time position, thus it isn't going to go too rapidly...).

I have an injection machine. I am really struggling to lift and push down the lever. At this time I don’t have anyone to assist me. I’m looking for any tricks you all have for working with this machine solo.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Well.... Have a look here. Perhaps a bit of reading. Might not answer your question by it provides a means for producing acrylic sheets. https://www.notion.so/paulate/Dinacon-2022-Upcycling-Plastics-and-building-a-DIY-Hydraulic-Press-1f4475d894724582a0f586f0bd95e530

Thanks! This just adds to the confusion though - it looks like they're using up to 8 tons for a very small sheet, while there are other far larger presses (1x1 metres, for example) that use 5tons or less. I did some very basic testing 4 years ago and roughly estimated I was generating about 15psi and the sheet was decent quality, but not great. For 1x1 metres, that would be 24 tons. But, it was a cold (and very crude) press and it is quite probable that the melt temperature could/should have been higher. I suspect you'd need lower pressure with higher temp and (especially) a hot press with constant pressure to further fuse and melt the flakes. I think I will have to do some actual testing to see what pressures are truly needed - it would be enormously useful information for the community. I just wish the PP project had done this obvious work already... It could dramatically reduce build costs if pressures could be minimized.

my shredder is in prototype stage I’m able to shred but I don’t have a proper stand for it (edited)

Nice work ! Is Your motor from an electric winch ? And is it enough powerfull ?

it is a crane motor

5:06 PM

it has a lot of torque but I can only run it for 10 minutes or less

1

nickchomey

Thanks! This just adds to the confusion though - it looks like they're using up to 8 tons for a very small sheet, while there are other far larger presses (1x1 metres, for example) that use 5tons or less. I did some very basic testing 4 years ago and roughly estimated I was generating about 15psi and the sheet was decent quality, but not great. For 1x1 metres, that would be 24 tons. But, it was a cold (and very crude) press and it is quite probable that the melt temperature could/should have been higher. I suspect you'd need lower pressure with higher temp and (especially) a hot press with constant pressure to further fuse and melt the flakes. I think I will have to do some actual testing to see what pressures are truly needed - it would be enormously useful information for the community. I just wish the PP project had done this obvious work already... It could dramatically reduce build costs if pressures could be minimized.

The mistake you're making with the hot press is that although there's an 8 ton jack, there is a spring attached to the top of the jack. If I'm not mistaken, you are never supposed to max out the spring (press will break). I don't recall the spring strength specs, will have to look it up later.

Alex_recycles and creates

my shredder is in prototype stage I’m able to shred but I don’t have a proper stand for it (edited)

That looks all kinds of scary

I hope those clamps hold

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

That looks all kinds of scary

I hope those clamps hold

The clamps do hold I tighten them very hard

Alex_recycles and creates

The clamps do hold I tighten them very hard

They'll hold until they dont. Just keep an eye on things, vibrations always cause things to shift. I've had some other issues in the past where the whole shredder box tipped over due to the shredder box not being welded together. Fun stuff!

3:44 AM

learn from my mistakes

Hi I have some issues to understand the electric parts of the SHR 3.3. The button proposed is a 3 way with spring return to 0 but, if it return to zero how the shredder will stay under power ? Did i missed something ?

Hi everyone, I am currently upgrading my sheet press/ cold press pair and trying to manufacture as much as I can with one pair of machines. So the main thing thats stopping me is the time it takes to cool down the sherts. I was thinking of adding some cooli g elements to the cold press. So the first idea is to add large heat sinks+fans like these

10:22 AM

And the second idea is to put water cooling blocks

10:22 AM

Did any of you tried theae methods or some other cooling solutions?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

They'll hold until they dont. Just keep an eye on things, vibrations always cause things to shift. I've had some other issues in the past where the whole shredder box tipped over due to the shredder box not being welded together. Fun stuff!

it is only temporary

Hello

I am watching this amazing guy on YouTube who makes things with PET bottles and he’s created a bottle cutter that I want to buy. I also want to invite him to Precious Plastic. However, I do not speak Russian, only communicate with him via Google Translate, and I don’t understand how to buy his machine by putting money on an Sberbank card. I tried Googling it, but I cannot find an answer and he cannot tell me. So I ask if anyone knows how to transfer the money and also see if someone can talk to him in Russian about Precious Plastic. I think his machine should be in the Bazar! Спасибо

Also, I’d generally like to see more hand tools available. I cannot afford a big machine, nor can I make one. I can afford this thing though, and maybe a hand crank shredder one day. For solitary makers such as myself, hand tools may be all that’s needed.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=K7YbVoahjBc&feature=share

Plastic bottle cutter

THE PERFECT BOTTLE CUTTER!!!!!

fecarian

Hi I have some issues to understand the electric parts of the SHR 3.3. The button proposed is a 3 way with spring return to 0 but, if it return to zero how the shredder will stay under power ? Did i missed something ?

I have been helped by an electro technician and understood the electrical process of it, if anyone have questions about it I could explain

Doruk Yıldırım

Hi everyone, I am currently upgrading my sheet press/ cold press pair and trying to manufacture as much as I can with one pair of machines. So the main thing thats stopping me is the time it takes to cool down the sherts. I was thinking of adding some cooli g elements to the cold press. So the first idea is to add large heat sinks+fans like these

The water cooling seems to me a better solution, I have never used the press machine but I imagine that the environment must be quite warm so not sure the fan will cool it down fast enough compare to the cooling system My workshop neighbour is a plastic transforming company I can ask him if they are using some cooling system, I’ll let you know

fecarian

The water cooling seems to me a better solution, I have never used the press machine but I imagine that the environment must be quite warm so not sure the fan will cool it down fast enough compare to the cooling system My workshop neighbour is a plastic transforming company I can ask him if they are using some cooling system, I’ll let you know

Thanks, that would be great!!

fecarian

Hi I have some issues to understand the electric parts of the SHR 3.3. The button proposed is a 3 way with spring return to 0 but, if it return to zero how the shredder will stay under power ? Did i missed something ?

It's called a self latching circuit. Basically you feed a coil through a energized contact aswell as a momentarily push button. After the contact energized it's a self sustaining circuit until a stop button breaks the circuit or the circuit loses power.

1

Building our biggest extrusion machine to date now. 7.5hp 30mmx1500mm screw. Once we get a new location with more space we will go up to a 50mmx2000mm screw update. ran our first test. Blow mold grade HDPE is 1 5 kilo per hour. if the plastic is dry. Wet plastic flake HDPE is 6 kilo per hour. Important to dry the plastic so you do not get vapor lock in the machine. (edited)

8:55 AM

4kw of heat.

2

Plastic Flamingo, another recycling group here in the Metro Manila is producing these sheets of plastic with foil sachets, and LDPE. 4 sheets every 90 min with a commercial oil heater laminating machine. 4 sheets per press.

9:21 AM

their plastic lumber.

9:21 AM

9

4

1

Have anyone develop a colour sorting machine for the bottle caps?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Damn

Bimba pin, solenoid valve, micro relay, 12v DC power supply, color sensor. Then you just need a chute with oriented caps. Program sensor to specific cap. Cap runs under sensor relay engages and cylinder ejects cap. You could also just do a air jet instead of the bimba pin (back pressure could prevent air jet from ejecting cap) Cap orientation is a whole nother beast. How we did it was a drum with a ramp with wedges and air jets. If cap is upside down the air jets push it into the drum past the wedges. If right side up it will drop back into the drum. The bottom of the drum is a spinning platter. We also had a ladder conveyor with a vacuum and a bump. If caps suctioned then it makes it past bump if not then cap drops back into bin. With the first orienter you will have a jam up anywhere from 30 minutes in to 3 hours. Depends completely on setup and caps used. With second method you won't jam but you can potentially starve the equipment just from bad luck. This is why we used 2 sensors empty and full. The ladders speed depended on how quickly the full sensor kept calling. (edited)

Did anyone tried KTR coupler ( spider coupler ) for SHR 3.3 ? There is 2 months delay before ordering the coupler HRC 150, so I am looking for another solution

fecarian

Did anyone tried KTR coupler ( spider coupler ) for SHR 3.3 ? There is 2 months delay before ordering the coupler HRC 150, so I am looking for another solution

I can help you with couplers if you have a version 3.3 shredder

fecarian

Did anyone tried KTR coupler ( spider coupler ) for SHR 3.3 ? There is 2 months delay before ordering the coupler HRC 150, so I am looking for another solution

I basically used an assembly lock 30mm bore on the shaft part of the shredder

6:35 PM

This also depends on the motor shaft diameter

Alex_recycles and creates

I can help you with couplers if you have a version 3.3 shredder

Yes that’s the 3.3 version

6:52 PM

The motor shaft will be 30mm

Here is my set up for the shredder

8:53 PM

How do you call this type of coupler ?

9:38 PM

Is it ok with 350nm ?

fecarian

How do you call this type of coupler ?

It’s a assembly lock it’s meant for high torque

11:40 PM

And I used 3 spark plugs

Ok nice I’ll have a look to that option, thank you does it allow any misalignment?

Alex_recycles and creates

Click to see attachment 🖼️

It will work although a chain flex coupler is better. those motors are also limited to 20 min maximum run time before cooling, we did a LOT of testing on them. You can extend the run time by adding supplemental cooling fan, which is what we use on our log splitter injection molder. The machine never gets hot even with a high duty cycle on that unit.

1

Sounds like you guys should look into DC motors if you are going to stay with 110v. Get a good controller and a proper motor and you won't have that heating issue. Although if a brush isn't seated properly you can boil the paint off. You can pick em up fairly cheap only downside is swapping brushes every now and then. Plus side is they are reversible. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=90v+dc+motor&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l1311&_sacat=0

90v dc motor | eBay

Buy and sell electronics, cars, fashion apparel, collectibles, sporting goods, digital cameras, baby items, coupons, and everything else on eBay, the world's online marketplace

TheGuy

Sounds like you guys should look into DC motors if you are going to stay with 110v. Get a good controller and a proper motor and you won't have that heating issue. Although if a brush isn't seated properly you can boil the paint off. You can pick em up fairly cheap only downside is swapping brushes every now and then. Plus side is they are reversible. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=90v+dc+motor&_trksid=p2380057.m4084.l1311&_sacat=0

very expensive vs just getting commercial existing stuff.

4:32 AM

4+ years as a PP machine builder here.

Yea it is more. Guess it's just a matter of opinion. That's neat I've considered it myself, I've got plenty of the stuff just laying around from pulling it off equipment or when management decides to clean out the store rooms lol. One time scrapped some old equipment I scored like 4 Micrologix1000s

Here's my latest project. Last engineer got fired and dropped his mess up on us. Had to hand program the 580 that was fun going through 800 pages just to convert 550 specs. Hopefully works it's supposed to cut 3" Dia steel tube at 200ft/m we test it Tuesday. (edited)

or you get a single phase motor, gear it down with some pulleys and belts, and there ya go... no way I could ship my machines with this sort of stuff and be economical or provide customer service, especially when half my clients are on remote islands and have limited skills to fix things

5:13 AM

the key is to keep it as simple as possible and economical to build and service. not to mention that using used parts, means that we ship one machine with one config, and the next unit goes out differently, and soon we have no consistent product

1

5:15 AM

i used to build and use CNC machinery, I also serviced laser cutters and fiber markers. It was a daily struggle dealing with people who were unable to understand how to repair these machines

Oh this definitely isn't designed for small scale. The line it goes on is a $2,000/hr+ and that's the cheap line. Try it out on that before we put a new one in on the bread winner. These machines here definitely don't require that level of complexity. Yea clueless operators are always an issue I'd hope people using the equipment would have a basic understanding of maintenance. I'll design the stuff but I definitely wouldn't sell it. I could provide documentation to do it but I don't want the responsibility of service and upkeep I do that enough with the day(night) job.

Butte (PP Philippines)

It will work although a chain flex coupler is better. those motors are also limited to 20 min maximum run time before cooling, we did a LOT of testing on them. You can extend the run time by adding supplemental cooling fan, which is what we use on our log splitter injection molder. The machine never gets hot even with a high duty cycle on that unit.

I am very interested to hear more about your experience on theses motors, you are talking about an extra fan on theses one, do you have any advises ?

fecarian

I am very interested to hear more about your experience on theses motors, you are talking about an extra fan on theses one, do you have any advises ?

100mm exhaust fan mounted on the end of the motor air intake with flanges

Can you build your own shredder?

That depends on a lot of factors. I'm new around here, but I've been working with machine tools for a long time. What type of materials and equipment do you have available to you?

A lathe and mill machine. Some power tools and welding equipment

then yes

9:59 AM

well, assuming you have access to the funds and/or materials required

Yes

9:59 AM

Ish

story as old as time

1

10:00 AM

so Precious Plastic has laid out a collection of fantastic resources which really give you everything you need to build a machine

10:00 AM

CAD models, engineering drawings (they call them blueprints), BOMs, you name it

10:00 AM

I will link to the page where they are distributed

10:01 AM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Thank you

absolutely!

Very basic design of color sensor. After I removed the timer bottle neck with C0 I was able to drop cycle times to 10ms. Waiting on components now but should be able to build one for less that $10 bare bones. Designed for an Atmega328 chip (Pro Mini). Planning on adding inputs to increase/ decrease precision instead of the hard coded 10% it has now.

Butte (PP Philippines)

It will work although a chain flex coupler is better. those motors are also limited to 20 min maximum run time before cooling, we did a LOT of testing on them. You can extend the run time by adding supplemental cooling fan, which is what we use on our log splitter injection molder. The machine never gets hot even with a high duty cycle on that unit.

It is from the beginning of my build that I'm wondering why no one is making the shredder connected with the gear motor with a rigid interface. It is just a matter of making a piece of pipe with two flanges and to machine them precisely to connect the machines with a good concentricity. I made mine that way and I had to make a dog clutch between them only to make disassembling easier.

I was unable to download the download-kit of the Sheetpress, could someone send me the .zip

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

It is from the beginning of my build that I'm wondering why no one is making the shredder connected with the gear motor with a rigid interface. It is just a matter of making a piece of pipe with two flanges and to machine them precisely to connect the machines with a good concentricity. I made mine that way and I had to make a dog clutch between them only to make disassembling easier.

because flanged gear motors are expensive.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

It is from the beginning of my build that I'm wondering why no one is making the shredder connected with the gear motor with a rigid interface. It is just a matter of making a piece of pipe with two flanges and to machine them precisely to connect the machines with a good concentricity. I made mine that way and I had to make a dog clutch between them only to make disassembling easier.

Do you have a picture ?

Sincerely, I'm working in mechanical construction industry since last century and I rarely seen gear motor without flanges Maybe it is mainly related to the location. However I think the main reason, thinking about the PP machines, is the fact that it is easier to follow that design since machines aren't enginereed with precision in mind...

fecarian

Do you have a picture ?

I have a lot. Now I'm uploading some here, but if you want you can find more on IG, search for " insta_ventu "

10:34 PM

10:35 PM

10:37 PM

3

10:37 PM

Hey PP folks. Wanted to share with you, this active carbon, fumes air sucking machine, super low-cost, easy to transport and store, compact design, with 10 m hose. Material cost 240 EUR. Work cost (development, welding, etc) 200 EUR . It goes perfect with injection machine, or while heating plastic for cold press. Disadvantage is just 1 input. it would be more practical to have 2, but it is, what it is. We are planning (hopefully) to realeady HOW TO video

4

we called a machinist for the SHR-3 axle nuts, and he asks us 80€/unit for each axle nut, do you know a cheaper alternative than machining?

fecarian

we called a machinist for the SHR-3 axle nuts, and he asks us 80€/unit for each axle nut, do you know a cheaper alternative than machining?

just wondering, if its not possible to buy it online (prob you checked, but just in case) also can you share image of SHR-3 axle nut, because from the name im not familiar with that.

Martin PP Slovakia

just wondering, if its not possible to buy it online (prob you checked, but just in case) also can you share image of SHR-3 axle nut, because from the name im not familiar with that.

The part name is SHR3 1200.06

@fecarian Just get a m35x1.5 nut.The rest is just fluff I don't even know why they aren't using OTC hardware. Just use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Winco-Bearing-Thread-Thickness-Width-2/dp/B018R9VYB4 We use something similar on our cutoffs to hold 3ft dia flywheels. We also use it on our shafts for roll forming. (edited)

J.W. Winco KM-7 KM Bearing Lock Nut, M35 x 1.5 Thread, 52 mm OD, 8 ...

Mainly utilized to secure bearings onto a shaft. For our selection of hook spanner wrenches for use with these components, DIN 1810A hook spanner wrenches with nose end.

fecarian

The part name is SHR3 1200.06

Yes you can use a bearing lock nut, as Theguy shared. Both option works the same. The downside of these nut is that you need a special spanner, but that is relatively inexpensive. We also proposed this alternative version (1200.06) where you can use a normal spanner, but we have them machine as the same time than the axis and they cost us less than 10€ a piece. The price you get is probably because it is a too small job for the machinist you contacted. Where are you located ? (edited)

Thank you guys, I thought about this option at first but I imagined that if they didn’t use it, maybe they was an issue ! It’s my first shredder, laser cut the tool is a great idea !

Yann

Yes you can use a bearing lock nut, as Theguy shared. Both option works the same. The downside of these nut is that you need a special spanner, but that is relatively inexpensive. We also proposed this alternative version (1200.06) where you can use a normal spanner, but we have them machine as the same time than the axis and they cost us less than 10€ a piece. The price you get is probably because it is a too small job for the machinist you contacted. Where are you located ? (edited)

Located around Lille in North of France. That was the unit price for 10 pieces. We have many industry equipped with numerical machines here and they are not interested in small production. They asked a quantity of 50 axles minimum for an order. And the one that can do unit or 5-10quantity 250-400€ each

12:47 PM

And you, where are you located?

Can anyone provide me with a link to buy brass band heaters for Extrusion machine?

Need them shipped in Croatia, Europe as soon as possible. ✈️ Thanks!

fecarian

Is it ok with 350nm ?

yes it is okay

Yann

Yes you can use a bearing lock nut, as Theguy shared. Both option works the same. The downside of these nut is that you need a special spanner, but that is relatively inexpensive. We also proposed this alternative version (1200.06) where you can use a normal spanner, but we have them machine as the same time than the axis and they cost us less than 10€ a piece. The price you get is probably because it is a too small job for the machinist you contacted. Where are you located ? (edited)

We don't use a spanner. Just a hammer and a punch works fine

TheGuy

@fecarian Just get a m35x1.5 nut.The rest is just fluff I don't even know why they aren't using OTC hardware. Just use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Winco-Bearing-Thread-Thickness-Width-2/dp/B018R9VYB4 We use something similar on our cutoffs to hold 3ft dia flywheels. We also use it on our shafts for roll forming. (edited)

problem solved, money saved. well done. yeah, its good to use standart componets, not custom, if possible @fecarian

2

I have some hard time to understand the utility of the timer relay in the SHR3 is it to let the motor rest after a long use ? And how to configure it ? Is there a standard setting or does it depend of the motor efficiency? (edited)

https://matoha.com/plastics-identification

Plastics identification device - PlasTell | Matoha

1

Hi, for the injector, does anyone have a list of cables and electrical components? I’ve tried looking the community and watched the videos but it didn’t say what the wirings were

ShakiraHips

Hi, for the injector, does anyone have a list of cables and electrical components? I’ve tried looking the community and watched the videos but it didn’t say what the wirings were

Which version of the INJ ? Did you find the diagrams and BOM list in the files ?

fecarian

Which version of the INJ ? Did you find the diagrams and BOM list in the files ?

2.0 and yes

ShakiraHips

2.0 and yes

Normally you should follow the wiring diagram, do you have questions about it ?

I’m having issues getting the components

In the list .PDF and .xlsx there is all the clickable links on the right column, and normally everything should be available on theses link, ( I have ordered the whole parts Friday

)

8:14 AM

If you have issues for some component I have an updated list with french suppliers I can send it to you

1

marjanzitnik

Can anyone provide me with a link to buy brass band heaters for Extrusion machine?

Need them shipped in Croatia, Europe as soon as possible. ✈️ Thanks!

If you didn't find any other option, take a look at the DMP catalogue ( http://www.dmp-srl.com/images/dmpnormalizzati.pdf ), it is a plastic mold parts supplier, I know personally the owners, and I can ship the heaters you need, if you want. We are in Italy. It is professional stuff, so it isn't very cheap, but it is good stuff. I bought from them my stainless steel band heaters, they suggested me to avoid the brass ones. Where are you located in Croatia?

Hello PP community. Can anyone please recommend me price available (less than 3000 EUR) injection - arbour press style machine, with injection volume capacity more than 120 grams of melted plastic ? thanks a lot !, (edited)

New to the chat! Is there existing documentation on where to source motors, gears, in the US? I am trying to put together a quote to raise fund for a recycling center (Located in rural Nebraska). We have a machine shop and the ability to build.

seventwentyeight

New to the chat! Is there existing documentation on where to source motors, gears, in the US? I am trying to put together a quote to raise fund for a recycling center (Located in rural Nebraska). We have a machine shop and the ability to build.

Do you have any scrap yards or metal collection yards in the area? That'd be a good place to start for cheap motors/gearboxes/parts if you can fabricated around what you find

We are looking at a motor like this or equivalent: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Leeson/5-HP-Special-Duty-230-Volt-AC-3450-RPM-Air-Compressor-Motor-Leeson-116523-10-2530.axd - what do we need to do in terms of gear reduction?

There is gear worm / helicoidal / coaxial reduction. Is this for the shredder?

9:24 AM

The gear reduction will depend of the output RPM / nm required.

9:24 AM

http://wentec.com/unipower/calculators/power_torque.asp

9:29 AM

This website can help you to find the right output RPM / nm Once you have definite the output You divide the motor RPM by the output RPM and you will get the ratio of the gear reduction

fecarian

There is gear worm / helicoidal / coaxial reduction. Is this for the shredder?

Ah yes, sorry for not being clear, I'm looking at the shredder pro. Thinking of getting a 5hp motor but the RPM are quite high (3450 rpm for the one I am looking at). The specs on precious plastic seems to require the rpm to be something like 18 rpm! The ratio seems to be something like 100: 1

seventwentyeight

Ah yes, sorry for not being clear, I'm looking at the shredder pro. Thinking of getting a 5hp motor but the RPM are quite high (3450 rpm for the one I am looking at). The specs on precious plastic seems to require the rpm to be something like 18 rpm! The ratio seems to be something like 100: 1

I havent studied the SHR pro yet, but for the basic the 1500RPM motor seems more convenient, the reducer is easier to find and cheaper 1400rpm with a 80:1 ratio will bring you to 17,5RPM have a look to the power that you can find to see if the torque could fit

Just an advice: Search for a combined reducer, with a primary straight gear reduction and a secondary with worm gear. For example, I'm using a 3:1 primary and a 30:1 secondary, for a total of 90:1 ratio. Worm gear with an high ratio have a bad efficiency and it is fragile compared to lower ratios. In this way you certainly have to add a part to the machine, but since the worm gear is more robust and the efficiency is higher, you can reduce the motor power and the worm gear dimension.

Another thing, avoid two poles motors. They have lower efficiency, and it is a nonsense to start with a high speed if the machine have to rotate slowly.

https://youtu.be/9XBBywjIhrw

Precious Plastic Philippines

latest Precious Plastic Philippines extrusion machine build

3

inside our latest build. No gear motor, just normal 5hp induction motor. everything enclosed for safety

Butte (PP Philippines)

inside our latest build. No gear motor, just normal 5hp induction motor. everything enclosed for safety

It means that your motor has a slow rotation naturally ?

fecarian

It means that your motor has a slow rotation naturally ?

no, we use belt and pulley to reduce the speed 3:10 then to a central shaft, that reduces another 13:50 with chain and sprocket (edited)

1:45 AM

because the higher torque could mean slippage at the second stage we use the chain and sprocket

Butte (PP Philippines)

because the higher torque could mean slippage at the second stage we use the chain and sprocket

I see, is this for the cost ?

seventwentyeight

Ah yes, sorry for not being clear, I'm looking at the shredder pro. Thinking of getting a 5hp motor but the RPM are quite high (3450 rpm for the one I am looking at). The specs on precious plastic seems to require the rpm to be something like 18 rpm! The ratio seems to be something like 100: 1

1750rpm is normal for industion motors 4 pole usually. those high speed motors are normally used in blower.

fecarian

I see, is this for the cost ?

cost and simplicity of maintain.

1:48 AM

I could get a worm gearbox at a somewhat higher cost, but I have had many issues with the oil seals leaking and I do not care to repeat that disaster

What about the space and setting it up, isn’t it too complicated ?

Have built literally hundreds of machines using this setup. never a failure

1:50 AM

this was the exact same method I used to power the v3 shredder with a 5hp motor before developing the granulator

1:51 AM

It needs a bit of work on the frame from the pp version but then it’s cheaper and easier to maintain

fecarian

It needs a bit of work on the frame from the pp version but then it’s cheaper and easier to maintain

yes. it requires 2 pieces of 1 inch steel tubing, around 24usd total for the frame and a day of MIG welding fabricating

1:54 AM

my old design for the shredder used a lot of laser cut and cnc bent 2mm plate steel

Then your sheet steel is screwed to the frame ?

now use

1:54 AM

now yes

Or the sheets makes the frame

20ga galvanized, epoxy primed epoxy paint

1:55 AM

shredder the sheet made the frame

1:55 AM

before

1:55 AM

now its tubing

1:55 AM

cost saving measure

1:55 AM

same results

This is very interesting. For your v3 do you use 2k2 motor ?

5hp

But it has to be at 400v right ?

4kw

2:00 AM

no just a ordinary single phase 220v 5hp industrial motor

2:01 AM

they use them on pumps and all sorts of things

2:01 AM

super common item

2:02 AM

about 250 usd locally

I dont Know if we can get that easily here in france

surely you can

Then I’ll have a look thanks

thats a super common item.

I have ordered 2k2 with gear

i tried the gear motors but they are 3 phase usually here and i have yet to find for less than 1000usd unless cheap china

I will try to find theses 5HP and do some test to slow it down

my light duty shredder with the cheap china motor only can run 20 min before needs to cool down

2:06 AM

https://sciencing.com/reduce-rpms-using-belts-pulleys-7901912.html

How to Reduce RPMs Using Belts & Pulleys

The operation of shafts driven by electric or internal combustion motors or other forms of power is characterized by speed, torque and the location of the shaft. The load to be driven by the shaft will often require a different speed or torque or will require the transmission of power to an adjacent shaft. Reducing ...

1

2:08 AM

example. 3:10 at the motor 3 inch pulley motor to 10 inch pulley to center shaft reduces by 3.33

2:09 AM

1750 rpm divided by 3.33 is 525 rpm.

2:09 AM

the chain and sprocket is 13:50

2:10 AM

or 3.85 reduction

2:10 AM

3.85 brings me down to 136 rpm to the extrusion screw

2:11 AM

that is a overall 12.82:1 reduction

An extrusion machine can run that fast ?

yes

2:12 AM

because i am running flake not pellet.

2:12 AM

pellet needs to run a bit slower

2:13 AM

lots of air gaps in the flake

2:13 AM

my shop extrusion machine also runs 4kw of heater bands

2:14 AM

dry hdpe injection mold flake or pp flake will do 15kg per hour.

2:15 AM

after this, i need to go industrial as i cant keep up with plastic lumber orders

I am having a look to your granulator ( or v4 ? ) it seems terribly efficient

2:23 AM

The output quantity of plastic shredded is impressive

thanks

Hi guys, please can anyone provide a more detailed diagram of the v4 auto reverse control box. Indicating pin numbers and where the various wires are attached on the arduino nano control board, or better a video of one being made. The diagram and explanation is not clear. Please help. I have broke a shredder shaft already, don't want it happening again. (edited)

2:27 PM

2:29 PM

Circuits are my kryptonite

Mehulk-Mesmash

Click to see attachment 🖼️

1:43 AM

Mehulk-Mesmash

Hi guys, please can anyone provide a more detailed diagram of the v4 auto reverse control box. Indicating pin numbers and where the various wires are attached on the arduino nano control board, or better a video of one being made. The diagram and explanation is not clear. Please help. I have broke a shredder shaft already, don't want it happening again. (edited)

I'm not familiar with the auto-reverse or the files associated with it. Can you point me in the direction of those files? This wiring diagram is missing a lot of information. It looks like the only connections to the arduino are power, which isn't helpful. You'd have to look into the ino file for the arduino program and see exactly what pins are being used and for what.

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug https://github.com/davehakkens/shredder-reverse

GitHub - davehakkens/shredder-reverse: code for reverse system on b...

code for reverse system on big shredder. Contribute to davehakkens/shredder-reverse development by creating an account on GitHub.

Butte (PP Philippines)

surely you can

In Europe is something like impossible to find single phase motors over 3kw. And they are pointless. For power applications three phase ones are simply the right choice.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

In Europe is something like impossible to find single phase motors over 3kw. And they are pointless. For power applications three phase ones are simply the right choice.

try Teco motors...

https://www.teco-group.eu/

TECO Europe :: Suppliers of Low Voltage and High Voltage AC Elect...

TECO Europe is a leading manufacturer of AC Electric Motors and Variable Speed Drives

Butte (PP Philippines)

try Teco motors...

Why? I don't need single phase motors. They are less efficient, and you can't use them with VFD. I'm using 3 phase ones+VFD even on the injection press.

I am looking to try shredding the plastic I have been collecting and have been looking at two different methods for starting out on the low end of cost. First one would be modifying a cross cut shredder and the second method would be a wood chipper. Any thought or better suggestions?

xDoubleATx

I am looking to try shredding the plastic I have been collecting and have been looking at two different methods for starting out on the low end of cost. First one would be modifying a cross cut shredder and the second method would be a wood chipper. Any thought or better suggestions?

Low end shredding is like... Scissors < Blender < Planer (with modification) < modified paper shredder < Precious Plastic Shredder There might be some other alternatives out there

8:27 AM

In some cases you don't need to shred, but it depends on what you're trying to produce

8:32 AM

I dont think i'm being super helpful. What sort of capacity are you aiming for at the low end?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Low end shredding is like... Scissors < Blender < Planer (with modification) < modified paper shredder < Precious Plastic Shredder There might be some other alternatives out there

I am just starting out with a few ideas. There is no collection point or shredders near me so I felt it was best for me to start at the beginning of the process and slowly work my way to the extruding process.

xDoubleATx

I am just starting out with a few ideas. There is no collection point or shredders near me so I felt it was best for me to start at the beginning of the process and slowly work my way to the extruding process.

you would like to use it for extruding? in that case i would say the closest would be to try with a second hand blender (ideally a strong one) but you will only be able to shred VERY small amounts at the time (so youll have to be very patient) and make sure you pre cut the plastic into smaller pieces with a knife or scissors before putting it in the blender

xDoubleATx

I am just starting out with a few ideas. There is no collection point or shredders near me so I felt it was best for me to start at the beginning of the process and slowly work my way to the extruding process.

where are you based? have you checked the map?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/map

Carolina

where are you based? have you checked the map?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/map

I am based out of Ottawa/Gatineau, Ontario Canada.

xDoubleATx

I am based out of Ottawa/Gatineau, Ontario Canada.

did you check the map? to see if theres anyone close by? (edited)

Carolina

did you check the map? to see if theres anyone close by? (edited)

Closest is 3 hours from here Montreal.

xDoubleATx

Closest is 3 hours from here Montreal.

maybe they can ship some material to you to start experimenting

I am getting these hiccups while extrusion. It is not constant plastic flow. Using industrial screw. Does anyone knows the reason?

marjanzitnik

I am getting these hiccups while extrusion. It is not constant plastic flow. Using industrial screw. Does anyone knows the reason?

Hi. Im sorry i dont understand what happenes to be the problem, seems fine to me, can you explain a bit more? (edited)

marjanzitnik

I am getting these hiccups while extrusion. It is not constant plastic flow. Using industrial screw. Does anyone knows the reason?

what polymer are you melting ?

HDPE. You can see its lagging

i dont know the right word, but the flow is not a constant, it goes wave after wave. Also you can see the result on the beams, they have these weird patterns.

10:04 PM

@Carolina @Alex_recycles and creates

marjanzitnik

HDPE. You can see its lagging

i dont know the right word, but the flow is not a constant, it goes wave after wave. Also you can see the result on the beams, they have these weird patterns.

ah! well thats normal when you have low speed, do you have a VFD?

@Carolina i dont. I believe it will be better when injecting into the seamless steel profile. These steel profiles are welded from inside and its probably slowing the beam getting through the profile.

marjanzitnik

@Carolina i dont. I believe it will be better when injecting into the seamless steel profile. These steel profiles are welded from inside and its probably slowing the beam getting through the profile.

those marks dont come from the seam, its the plastic cooling while moving inside the mould, the slower it moves the more prominent this marks will be. If you want to achieve smooth surfaces you need high speed and a heated mould.

Got it! Thanks!

marjanzitnik

Got it! Thanks!

check out this how to

it might be helpful https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extrude-different-textures

Extrude different textures

We used the extruder to make a bench, shelving unit and beams. We already covered the qualities about the beam made from Polystyrene in a separate how to here: In this How to you will learn how we achieved the different textures for the shelf and bench.

2

marjanzitnik

I am getting these hiccups while extrusion. It is not constant plastic flow. Using industrial screw. Does anyone knows the reason?

Looks like it's pulsing. Why is it pulsing? Difficult to say. What's your screw profile look like? I think the design precious plastic machines use help compress and smooth out the plastic flow, so the extrusion screw might be the cause of it in your case. Just a guess though.

Yeah, that pulsing is confusing me :/ i am using this screw and barrel - https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/extruder/extruder-kits/extrusion-screw-and-barrel

Extrusion Screw and barrel

what granule size you have? i feel that happenes sometimes when the feeding isnt homogeneous and can happen because the screw is not grabbing enough material or not in a constant way, because the granules could be too big or too many different sizes

my shredder has medium size mash that makes flakes like this

Carolina

what granule size you have? i feel that happenes sometimes when the feeding isnt homogeneous and can happen because the screw is not grabbing enough material or not in a constant way, because the granules could be too big or too many different sizes

I also think that could be the main reason. I will try to shred it several times and try again. Let you know what happens! Thanks so much.

2

marjanzitnik

I also think that could be the main reason. I will try to shred it several times and try again. Let you know what happens! Thanks so much.

can you take a pictures with the granules on your hand to understand the scale a bit better?

@marjanzitnik Could also be your coupling between the motor and screw slipping. It can create a similar pulsing due to pressure building up, slipping, pressure decreases, grips again, etc

5:44 PM

Though this would be unlikely to allow you to create such beams as the part would likely wear down and fail.

Carolina

can you take a pictures with the granules on your hand to understand the scale a bit better?

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

@marjanzitnik Could also be your coupling between the motor and screw slipping. It can create a similar pulsing due to pressure building up, slipping, pressure decreases, grips again, etc

nope, its fixed on 3 points and end of the screw is hexagonal

Carolina

can you take a pictures with the granules on your hand to understand the scale a bit better?

still getting the same pattern even with granules shredded 3 times

marjanzitnik

still getting the same pattern even with granules shredded 3 times

The granule size seems fine. But why does the pattern bother you ? I find it beautiful! Very unique actually. In this case the only way is to increase temperature and heat up the mould

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I'm not familiar with the auto-reverse or the files associated with it. Can you point me in the direction of those files? This wiring diagram is missing a lot of information. It looks like the only connections to the arduino are power, which isn't helpful. You'd have to look into the ino file for the arduino program and see exactly what pins are being used and for what.

Did you get link ? Are you able to help, or can anyone shed some light?

Carolina

The granule size seems fine. But why does the pattern bother you ? I find it beautiful! Very unique actually. In this case the only way is to increase temperature and heat up the mould

Not bothering me at all I was just wondering why it happens

Will be interesting on the bigger beams. Will try next week! Thanks once again.

Mehulk-Mesmash

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug https://github.com/davehakkens/shredder-reverse

That code hasnt been touched in 3 years and is still a work in progress. I can't make out what pins are used though

marjanzitnik

Not bothering me at all I was just wondering why it happens

Will be interesting on the bigger beams. Will try next week! Thanks once again.

It is totally normal, the texture changes depending on speed and temperature of the mould but’s always present

Carolina

It is totally normal, the texture changes depending on speed and temperature of the mould but’s always present

Yeah, gives the touch definitely!

2

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

That code hasnt been touched in 3 years and is still a work in progress. I can't make out what pins are used though

There is a pic of electrics

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug started a thread. 11/26/2022 2:21 AM

Hi, everyone. At my university we are doing the LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) of a shredder we built similar to the PP Shredder Pro. Does anyone know if there's already some info about the impacts of building a Precious Plastic or any other shredding machine?

Hey everyone! I am looking for ideas on what kind of motor to get for building a shredder. I have been finding some locally but have way to high of a rpm at 1500 roughly.

xDoubleATx

Hey everyone! I am looking for ideas on what kind of motor to get for building a shredder. I have been finding some locally but have way to high of a rpm at 1500 roughly.

Yes 1500 rpm is commun, then you need to slow it down with reducer, or belt and pulley

1

6:15 PM

Does anyone has done the electric box of the SHR 3.3 ? I have hard time to set it up

even with the schematics I am lost. I have ordered the whole list

Question for@the injector , if I use a heat gun for melting process , will it work. ?

foofred

Question for@the injector , if I use a heat gun for melting process , will it work. ?

Are you using the heat gun as the heating element for melting the plastic? I don't think anyone has tried that. Will it work? Likely it will not work very well if at all.

Ok ok

3:36 AM

Thanks

marjanzitnik

@Carolina i dont. I believe it will be better when injecting into the seamless steel profile. These steel profiles are welded from inside and its probably slowing the beam getting through the profile.

If you have access to basic metalworking tooling I can help you to create a simple tool to clean the internal weld in square tubing. You need basically a piece of copper alloy metal (better if it is aluminum bronze, or bronze, it can work also with brass), an HSS T slot mill, possibly the kind with the threaded end, the right tap, a round steel bar longer than the tubing and a manual drill. It is just a matter of making the square bronze part to fit precisely in the tubing, piercing a hole in it of the same diameter of the T mill shank in the right position, screwing the mill in the round bar and use it with the drill to clean out the burrs inside the tubing. I made some of that tools years ago, when at job I needed to clean something like hundreds of meters of stainless steel tubing they bought for mistake. They come out so perfect that they decided to save the money difference from cleaned tubing from the producer and continue to clean out in this way.

1

the seam is not what creates the pattern on the beam that you see on the pictures, the seam can be reflected in the final beam as a line, so if it really bothers you, then you can remove it from the mould or buy extruded beams. Not having the weldin seam sometimes make the demoulding easier, but if thats not the problem, then i would say is not worth it

1

Hi! Can anyone give me some information about the filtersystem they use for a sheetpress to clean the air? I got an offer from a company here in Germany and the filter system is going to cost us 16.000 euro.. That seems a bit too much

I searched a bit though Discord but couldn't really find an answer so far.

Susantenhoeve

Hi! Can anyone give me some information about the filtersystem they use for a sheetpress to clean the air? I got an offer from a company here in Germany and the filter system is going to cost us 16.000 euro.. That seems a bit too much

I searched a bit though Discord but couldn't really find an answer so far.

Looking for the same thing. I will put the basic ventilation (quite cheap) that leads outside the workspace but I am wondering about which filters should I use. Please keep me updated! (edited)

Could positioning thermocouple like this work?

Martin PP Slovakia

Hey PP folks. Wanted to share with you, this active carbon, fumes air sucking machine, super low-cost, easy to transport and store, compact design, with 10 m hose. Material cost 240 EUR. Work cost (development, welding, etc) 200 EUR . It goes perfect with injection machine, or while heating plastic for cold press. Disadvantage is just 1 input. it would be more practical to have 2, but it is, what it is. We are planning (hopefully) to realeady HOW TO video

Hey, Well Done! Did you documented the process? I would like to build one.

Susantenhoeve

Hi! Can anyone give me some information about the filtersystem they use for a sheetpress to clean the air? I got an offer from a company here in Germany and the filter system is going to cost us 16.000 euro.. That seems a bit too much

I searched a bit though Discord but couldn't really find an answer so far.

16k wow haha @Yann might have a good suggestion for this !

marjanzitnik

Looking for the same thing. I will put the basic ventilation (quite cheap) that leads outside the workspace but I am wondering about which filters should I use. Please keep me updated! (edited)

we generally use carbon filters and just well ventilated area is enough (as long as you dont burn plastic

) and of course respirators (edited)

2

marjanzitnik

Could positioning thermocouple like this work?

im not sure if i can see well how you did it. Is it like screwed onto an adjustable metal ring (dont know the name of those). Like in this picture?

Susantenhoeve

Hi! Can anyone give me some information about the filtersystem they use for a sheetpress to clean the air? I got an offer from a company here in Germany and the filter system is going to cost us 16.000 euro.. That seems a bit too much

I searched a bit though Discord but couldn't really find an answer so far.

Are you member of a german workspace that has a sheet press or plans to get one?! I am curious cause so far I am not aware of any german group that got a larger sheet press.

Regarding fume extraction, there are much cheaper versions available (I also just looked into available solutions at the market). I think it also depends a lot on how much air volume the machine should be able to consume per time. I have no experience how much makes sense for a sheetpress which may also depend on the size of your press

Carolina

we generally use carbon filters and just well ventilated area is enough (as long as you dont burn plastic

) and of course respirators (edited)

I use a respirator with filters that keeps out organic fumes

1

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

Are you member of a german workspace that has a sheet press or plans to get one?! I am curious cause so far I am not aware of any german group that got a larger sheet press.

Regarding fume extraction, there are much cheaper versions available (I also just looked into available solutions at the market). I think it also depends a lot on how much air volume the machine should be able to consume per time. I have no experience how much makes sense for a sheetpress which may also depend on the size of your press

I work for Kunststofferei in Leipzig, but next to that I will go solo and start a sheet press business

I just found a location where I can move in next year. I also found someone who can build the frame of the machine for me and I got a friend who can help me out with the electricity part. So hopefully in 2 months we can really start

Okay awesome, maybe we can visit you next year!

Feel free to message me directly or remind me, then I can show you the exhaust options I found. But when you build a sheet press with your friends then maybe you could build a filter as well

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

Okay awesome, maybe we can visit you next year!

Feel free to message me directly or remind me, then I can show you the exhaust options I found. But when you build a sheet press with your friends then maybe you could build a filter as well

Haha yeah I guess that would be a lot cheaper than 16k..

are you planning to get a sheetpress as well? And yes, please come visit! We will first move in a rather small place, but mid next year we can hopefully move into Pittlerwerke, which is an old factory that is already partly renovated and is suppose to become a huge creative hub. I'm very excited

Carolina

im not sure if i can see well how you did it. Is it like screwed onto an adjustable metal ring (dont know the name of those). Like in this picture?

what is the best way to heat the nozzle?

One day we can hopefully get a big sheet press but for now we have to focus on cheaper solutions

Susantenhoeve

I work for Kunststofferei in Leipzig, but next to that I will go solo and start a sheet press business

I just found a location where I can move in next year. I also found someone who can build the frame of the machine for me and I got a friend who can help me out with the electricity part. So hopefully in 2 months we can really start

find a good sponsor, the energy price is increasing a lot, and the PP press is very energy consuming machine

Lixeiro

what is the best way to heat the nozzle?

we always try to keep the bottom heating element as close as possible from the nozzle like this

Carolina

we always try to keep the bottom heating element as close as possible from the nozzle like this

then my nozzle is too long

Lixeiro

then my nozzle is too long

is its too long you could also buy a heating element that can go on top of it

Carolina

is its too long you could also buy a heating element that can go on top of it

I have the same heat element like in the picture

measure the diamenter of the nozzle adaptor and find the right one, because the nozzle adaptor will have a bigger diamenter than the barrel

Carolina

measure the diamenter of the nozzle adaptor and find the right one, because the nozzle adaptor will have a bigger diamenter than the barrel

ok, will look for it, thanks a lot.

Carolina

measure the diamenter of the nozzle adaptor and find the right one, because the nozzle adaptor will have a bigger diamenter than the barrel

the first grams of plastic, will not melt becaouse is already on the nozzle part which are in touch with the mould and both are not really hot, how is the best procedure to melt for injecting?

do you have a heat gun? generally that happens with the first injections, but after having hot plastic going through the nozzle multiple times it stays hot. So you can use the heatgun on the nozzle for the first injections (edited)

Carolina

do you have a heat gun? generally that happens with the first injections, but after having hot plastic going through the nozzle multiple times it stays hot. So you can use the heatgun on the nozzle for the first injections (edited)

yes I have it, ok, lots of improvisation, thanks again!

Lixeiro

yes I have it, ok, lots of improvisation, thanks again!

hehe yes! its part of the craft ✨

1

Carolina

we always try to keep the bottom heating element as close as possible from the nozzle like this

Why should it be close to the nozzle

bulldung

Why should it be close to the nozzle

because mostly when you have insolation on the barrel, the nozzle stays out, insolated from the rest, so having the heating element close helps keeping it hot avoiding clogging (edited)

Ok

marjanzitnik

Could positioning thermocouple like this work?

Yes it can, i welded a nut onto a hose clamp that the thermocouple screws into. Just check the nut thread with the thermocouple thread first. Also the other image below will also work @Carolina these are called saddle clamps for pipe.

Carolina

im not sure if i can see well how you did it. Is it like screwed onto an adjustable metal ring (dont know the name of those). Like in this picture?

Saddle clamps.

1

Carolina

im not sure if i can see well how you did it. Is it like screwed onto an adjustable metal ring (dont know the name of those). Like in this picture?

It was just a nut under the ring that was holding the thermocouple, but only top of the thermocouple was touching barrel so the response was slow. Ended up with too high temperature in extruder. Now I have stripped the screw from the thermocouple and tighten it completely with barrel. Works better but still not sure if it is a proper measuring.

11:50 AM

Tried heating the steel profile with fire, beam ended up super smooth but burned, almost impossible to get out of the profile.

11:51 AM

The trick with a wood stick (that the plastic from extruder is pushing out) made a smoother beam.

marjanzitnik

Tried heating the steel profile with fire, beam ended up super smooth but burned, almost impossible to get out of the profile.

yes with fire you get too high temperature burning the plastic, you probably even deformed the tube a bit (thats why it was hard to demould). We usually use heatgun for that to control the temperature

1

marjanzitnik

Tried heating the steel profile with fire, beam ended up super smooth but burned, almost impossible to get out of the profile.

I highly reccomend using a strip heater with PID so you can really control the temperature. Heaters come in different shapes and if you're lucky there's a local market for custom shaped heaters. With blow torch or even heat gun it's hard to really know what the temperature is and result will vary, might be OK for testing if you don't have the equipment. I built a large oven for long (time) extrusion jobs but a strip heater directly on the surface of the mould is much quicker

1

hello does any one know why the extrusion pro can not use pet or petg thanks

CJI-Eng

hello does any one know why the extrusion pro can not use pet or petg thanks

IMHO, any PP machine can work with PET, however the trick is knowing very well your machine, as PET requieres higher temps, and has a narrower "window of error" - if you go past the upper limit, you will carbonize the plastic = hard sand-like grains that do not melt inside, so will have to completely empty and clean out the interior of the machine... FWIW, the temp you set on the controller is not usually the temp of the plastic, as how well and where the thermistor is placed will change a lot the reading from reality

10:14 PM

learning your machine means learning what your set temp is to get a good plastic flow

10:19 PM

Hey guys, been a while, am starting build of V4 extruder, and have a question about part 8, Clip Bushing, that appears on PDF EXTPRO-V1 1100.00... it does not appear on the BoM (as far as I can see), and have really no idea or reference to this part except the obviously useless sketch on this PDF.. there is no way I can identify this small part from this! Anyone have a link to a product? Once I can appreciate the actual part, I can better understand if I can make it or need to buy it!

Found it!

12:49 PM

However: Clip Bushing - IS NOT CORRECT NAME, is either Conical Clamping Hub, Cone Clamping Element, or Keyless Locking Coupling, even Shaft-Hub Connections is a better name when googling (actually in the Build video is referred to as CLAMP bushing, which is a little better) Part Norelem 23356, with dimensiones shown, supports max torque of 360MNm, but is only making contact with 17mm (L1), 22mm (L2) of total available 32mm (L1/L2) hub interior.. why THIS part, when there is plenty space in front of Coupling Shaft (37mm until Barrel inlet flange1) to put a longer Coupling which makes more internal contact inside hub? This part has L3 28mm (interior clamping part is still inside hub), and B 34mm (tops of screws just above hub mouth (ID47, OD60 = max D2): Norelem 23356, L1 17mm, L2 22mm, L3 28mm, B34mm, D1 & D2 47mm, max torque 360MNm, 36mm left until Flange 23351, L1 26mm, L2 n/a (est 33mm), L3 39mm, B45mm, D1 & D2 47mm, max torque 550MNm, 25mm left until Flange Ringspann RLK 132, L1 17mm, L2 22mm, L3 28mm, B34mm, max torque 580MNm, 36mm left until Flange (same as Norelem 23356, but higher torque?? How?) RLK 130, L1 26mm, L2 31mm, L3 42mm, B48mm, max torque 580MNm, 22mm left until Flange (how is same max torque but RLK 132 has less holding area??)

12:49 PM

Actually, after revision and learning the different types of Cone Clamping Elements (Ringspann) and Keyless Locking Coupling (Norelem), I now see that internally seated couplings permit more torque than those that prevent axial movement of the shaft (by resting a lip of the lower interior clamping part against the edge of the hub), however, my question stands: there is an option for a stronger Coupling to be installed, although leaves only 25mm of space until Barrel Inlet Flange1… Revising typical allen key dimensions for M6 socket screws, one would need 33mm clearance to get a normal size key into the side window of the Bearing Body Transition Piece, so assume this is the reason for using the lesser torque version..? I have occasionally had to cut down an allen key to fit in a space, and given that the initial mounting process there is no use of the side window, why should I not get the stronger but longer option..?

What is the optimum speed of version 2 (basic) precious plastic extruder machine with compression screw 25 mm? 40 - 140 Rpm. (edited)

Watch "TWIN Angle Grinder HACK - Make A Twin Angle Grinder Powered Wood Chipper | DIY" on YouTube https://youtu.be/2K3iNduRCyI I dont know if I should be afraid or impressed. Also I wonder about this with some 255mm saw blades...

Diamleon Diy Builds

TWIN Angle Grinder HACK - Make A Twin Angle Grinder Powered Wood Ch...

2

1

Hi guys, I m facing difficulties getting the nozzle for the injection mould, any help?

Butte (PP Philippines)

Watch "TWIN Angle Grinder HACK - Make A Twin Angle Grinder Powered Wood Chipper | DIY" on YouTube https://youtu.be/2K3iNduRCyI I dont know if I should be afraid or impressed. Also I wonder about this with some 255mm saw blades...

Reminds me of a facebook group "Dangerous Grinder Attachments" hahaha

Lixeiro

Hi guys, I m facing difficulties getting the nozzle for the injection mould, any help?

What's the problem exactly? In the past i've had the end of the barrel accept a normal pipe fitting and it worked just fine. From there you can add whatever you want to the end by threading it on. Your nozzle could be a cone type or a screw on type.

i center drilled a m14 allen head bolt and use that as the nozzle. it can be removed with allen wrench, and the mold has a socket the corresponding size as the allen head bold.

5:14 AM

ill try to post some pics

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I highly reccomend using a strip heater with PID so you can really control the temperature. Heaters come in different shapes and if you're lucky there's a local market for custom shaped heaters. With blow torch or even heat gun it's hard to really know what the temperature is and result will vary, might be OK for testing if you don't have the equipment. I built a large oven for long (time) extrusion jobs but a strip heater directly on the surface of the mould is much quicker

Hey @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Ben, do you have an example of said strip heater? Link?

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hey @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Ben, do you have an example of said strip heater? Link?

heres what it looks like however the store took down the product. They do custom orders so you just tell them what you want and they'll make it.

9:03 AM

https://www.tokopedia.com/ans-heater

9:04 AM

This ecommerce site wont work outside of Indonesia, for those wondering.

️

9:05 AM

strip heaters

9:08 AM

I'd say you can try a band heater but i've never seen one that was square. So for round profiles, you can space these out to keep the plastic hot as it goes through your mould. For square/rectangular profiles you will have issues if you heat only on one side. You'll likely have one side that's nice and smooth and the other side has a wrinkly or wood texture depending on temperatures and material

9:08 AM

oh ya heres band heaters

Hello, I am a student that is working on a project that shreds LDPE plastic utilizing a shredder we bought from Precious Plastic. We are currently troubleshooting a potential jam or overload on the electricity. We're not sure how to diagnose it and need some help and were wondering if someone could point us in the right direction.

winter4561

Hello, I am a student that is working on a project that shreds LDPE plastic utilizing a shredder we bought from Precious Plastic. We are currently troubleshooting a potential jam or overload on the electricity. We're not sure how to diagnose it and need some help and were wondering if someone could point us in the right direction.

What type of motor are you using ? Is it a crane motor ?

winter4561

Hello, I am a student that is working on a project that shreds LDPE plastic utilizing a shredder we bought from Precious Plastic. We are currently troubleshooting a potential jam or overload on the electricity. We're not sure how to diagnose it and need some help and were wondering if someone could point us in the right direction.

If the shredder jams then you put to much plastic in the shredder

@Alex_recycles and creates The motor we have is a Leeson Electric 1.5HP Electric Motor. Here's a link to the store page of the same model we have (https://www.witmermotorservice.com/11049500-Leeson-15HP-Hi-Torque-Farm/Agriculture-Duty-Electric-Motor/item/110495.00/). So far, we have cleared the plastic from the shredder already, tested the outlet with another device to make sure it works, and reset the motor itself to no avail. Is it possible we should try to use a completely different outlet despite the one we used working with other electronic devices (like a small electronic scale)?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

strip heaters

@Ben thats great. I didnt know these items were available locally. thanks. Just looking at the strip heaters I was reminded again of niChrome wire.. take a long length and spiral-wrap it around the tube/pipe then hook it up to one of those 400watt inverter stick welders. Attach a PID, thermocouple and use that to control on/off power for the welder. Easy to cool as well. just turn off the welder and drop (the mold, not the welder) in water. #bzzzt

Geoff (PBI NTB)

@Ben thats great. I didnt know these items were available locally. thanks. Just looking at the strip heaters I was reminded again of niChrome wire.. take a long length and spiral-wrap it around the tube/pipe then hook it up to one of those 400watt inverter stick welders. Attach a PID, thermocouple and use that to control on/off power for the welder. Easy to cool as well. just turn off the welder and drop (the mold, not the welder) in water. #bzzzt

I think they might actually use some niChrome wire inside, but i dont claim to really know anything about how these heaters are made. I do know that inside these heaters are coiled wires (heater element). Looks simple enough, just get your wire polarities right and i can't stress this part enough....MAKE SURE your machine is properly grounded. Indonesia is really bad about wiring proper ground cables, in fact i rarely see a ground wire connected (and if so, it's not done right). If your heater fails and things arent grounded, you might be in for a shocking experience. I found this out on my own....bare metal frames touching the ground is unfortunately, not enough. I discovered this a few weeks ago.

when extracting HDPE always getting same smooth pattern at the start of the beam. probably because nozzle heater heats up the steel mold. Could also be the extruder motor is slow (30rpm).

1

marjanzitnik

when extracting HDPE always getting same smooth pattern at the start of the beam. probably because nozzle heater heats up the steel mold. Could also be the extruder motor is slow (30rpm).

30 rpm for a extruder is very slow. Shredders have like 70 rpm

If Somebody needs a quick Change for extruding beams. I build it this way. Works perfekt and you only need Steel, 2 pillow blocks, Wheel Bolts, linear engine, and a step Drill.

11:29 PM

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

What's the problem exactly? In the past i've had the end of the barrel accept a normal pipe fitting and it worked just fine. From there you can add whatever you want to the end by threading it on. Your nozzle could be a cone type or a screw on type.

any example possible to find in the bazar? I found something but not the best one yet

fplast

If Somebody needs a quick Change for extruding beams. I build it this way. Works perfekt and you only need Steel, 2 pillow blocks, Wheel Bolts, linear engine, and a step Drill.

theorically you can add more moulds and just rotate it to fill?

Lixeiro

theorically you can add more moulds and just rotate it to fill?

Yes that is how it works

Hi winter, FWIW, do you have access to 3 phase electricity? A 3 phase motor is stronger and more efficient for high loads... if you had a jam and did not stop the motor quick enough, maybe you burnt out the motor? Also, that seems a very expensive motor... only other thing can think of is to completely disconnect motor from shredder and see if it runs with no load, maybe also the gearbox has broken (you don't mention what gearbox you have).. I am not online very often sorry if I don't answer for a few days!

Having some difficulty finding the CAD files for the shredder basic version on the precious plastics website (seem to only be able to download the pro version) - any help appreciated

Hello all, I'm trying to build a shredder pro and have run into some issues with the electric motor/gearbox set up Hi Richard,

2:53 PM

Ok so the help that I need is with the following. Please see the Shredder pro BOM attached. It states that the machine needs 1X 3020 taper lock at 45mm and one at 50mm? I'm not sure why as the shafts are both 45mm in diameter.

1_Shredder_BOM.xlsx

28.59 KB

3:00 PM

It also states that the spur gears should be 20 and 18teeth is this correct? Is one shaft supposed to spin faster than the other? To something else Ive been in touch with a motor and parts supplier and they have suggested that the nominal torque value suggested for this machine is way over specced. has anyone else found this to be the case? THis is the reply that I recieved from my supplier. (below) You have to imagine the motor is on top of the gearbox, not off to the side. The gearbox has a hollow output, which takes a 45mm shaft with 14mm key, so you can use your own shaft straight from it. As such I have not included the coupling as I’m not sure they’re needed. The gearbox/Motor combo I’ve picked would give you an output speed of near enough 18rpm. We need to check the torque figures as this motor produces just under 20Nm, 1100-3000Nm is apparently pretty ridiculous. For reference, 3000nm in old money is 2200lb/ft, equivalent to 2.5 Bugatti Veyrons.

3:01 PM

Does anyone who has built this machine think this will work, as in the drawing above? Any help would be very gratefully received. Thank you Slatts

Hello! We are using the hand powered precious plastic injection press and need tips on how to clean the machine after usage. What we do now is use paper towels but they do not remove all the plastic resulting in discoloration of the next batch. We have thought about using a steel brush but we are afraid that it will damage the inside surface resulting in more plastic sticking to the walls. Thanks.

Slatts

Ok so the help that I need is with the following. Please see the Shredder pro BOM attached. It states that the machine needs 1X 3020 taper lock at 45mm and one at 50mm? I'm not sure why as the shafts are both 45mm in diameter.

The shaft is 45mm in the shredder side and 50mm on the motor side (on the model, maybe your motor is different). The 2 different spurs is indeed to have a slight difference in speed between the 2 axis, therefore you don’t always have the same teeth pattern between the teeth. For the axis being put immediately in a hollow shaft motor, I would not recommend it, unless you make sure all hole are perfectly aligned (not doable manually, you need to put the frame on a milling machine or rethink completely the design). The coupling is there to allow the slight misalignment you will have by drilling the frames holes manually.

Dear @Yann , thank you very much for taking the time to respond to my query. Much appreciated. I'm not sure about the 45/50 diameter on ours I'll check when i am in the workshop tomorrow. But it explains the couplings on the BOM list

Understood about the coupling as well ...that makes sense. Thanks again. Best wishes Slatts

M0lnet

Hello! We are using the hand powered precious plastic injection press and need tips on how to clean the machine after usage. What we do now is use paper towels but they do not remove all the plastic resulting in discoloration of the next batch. We have thought about using a steel brush but we are afraid that it will damage the inside surface resulting in more plastic sticking to the walls. Thanks.

You are pushing paper towels thru the injector barrel? You are trying to get perfect coloration each time, I imagine..? To be honest, it is a lot easier to accept that there will be a cycling of color as the plastic goes thru, for me this is part of the enchantment of how the colores mix when they come out, always unique... IMHO, accept that some intermediate moulds will come out with mixed colores, and always have more of the color you want so you can "flush" the previous color.. or if you happen to have much more of a certain color, use that always...

Anything you don't really like can always shred again, but you'll always have the problem of mixing colores again I would not use anything abrasive inside the barrel, it wears out anyway, that will accelerate it

Hey peeps! trying to access the latest SPR files from the link here (new version announcement): https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/603872351251202059/986936096166412338 However, only managed to see the project file list once, tried to download all, got advised of a zip would take a while, once ready nothing downloaded, and thereafter, even after signing in to Grabcad, nothing appears on the page of the download files link, like suddenly disappeared.. only the SPR 2.3 project name in the top-left corner...

Anyone have another link or can send me via wetransfer? Am making a client quote for a Sheetpress, first time for me, and would like to make sure have the most up to date version

Thanks!

Andymid

Hey peeps! trying to access the latest SPR files from the link here (new version announcement): https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/603872351251202059/986936096166412338 However, only managed to see the project file list once, tried to download all, got advised of a zip would take a while, once ready nothing downloaded, and thereafter, even after signing in to Grabcad, nothing appears on the page of the download files link, like suddenly disappeared.. only the SPR 2.3 project name in the top-left corner...

Anyone have another link or can send me via wetransfer? Am making a client quote for a Sheetpress, first time for me, and would like to make sure have the most up to date version

Thanks!

It works fine for me!

Andymid

Hi winter, FWIW, do you have access to 3 phase electricity? A 3 phase motor is stronger and more efficient for high loads... if you had a jam and did not stop the motor quick enough, maybe you burnt out the motor? Also, that seems a very expensive motor... only other thing can think of is to completely disconnect motor from shredder and see if it runs with no load, maybe also the gearbox has broken (you don't mention what gearbox you have).. I am not online very often sorry if I don't answer for a few days!

Hey thanks for the reply! I'm unable to get to the shredder right now, but I'll update you when I can figure out if its connected to 3 phase electricity. The other thing was the person operating the machine ran it in reverse and that's when it stopped after it jammed. I'll update you on the gearbox info as well. I'm hoping that the motor isn't burnt out... but that's life I guess

Carolina

It works fine for me!

Hmm, strangely the error continues for me with Chrome, (tried reset cookies and history), Brave, however Firefox, that yesterday did not work, now does! So great, am managing to download everything now! (I must add that there are a few webpages for me that Chrome does not work and Firefox does, have no idea why, must be some settings are different

)

1

winter4561

Hey thanks for the reply! I'm unable to get to the shredder right now, but I'll update you when I can figure out if its connected to 3 phase electricity. The other thing was the person operating the machine ran it in reverse and that's when it stopped after it jammed. I'll update you on the gearbox info as well. I'm hoping that the motor isn't burnt out... but that's life I guess

So normally a single phase motor cannot be run in reverse (the capacitor that helps start a single phase motor always "pushes" in the same direction). and I do not see anything on the web about reverse, however it seems to have 2 capacitors, so really not too sure... another thing to check would be wiring (maybe reverse was wired wrong..?), but if you have previously had it reversing, then that should be OK (and is very necessary with a Shredder)... the only other thing that occurs to me right now is that it was left powered on and jammed for long enough that it overloaded the motor... This motor will not be connected to 3-phase electricity, it would not work at all (if you could find where to connect the extra cables!!), but I was recommending you use a 3-phase motor if you have 3-phase electricity available, as they are more powerful and efficient, don't need capacitors..

Andymid

So normally a single phase motor cannot be run in reverse (the capacitor that helps start a single phase motor always "pushes" in the same direction). and I do not see anything on the web about reverse, however it seems to have 2 capacitors, so really not too sure... another thing to check would be wiring (maybe reverse was wired wrong..?), but if you have previously had it reversing, then that should be OK (and is very necessary with a Shredder)... the only other thing that occurs to me right now is that it was left powered on and jammed for long enough that it overloaded the motor... This motor will not be connected to 3-phase electricity, it would not work at all (if you could find where to connect the extra cables!!), but I was recommending you use a 3-phase motor if you have 3-phase electricity available, as they are more powerful and efficient, don't need capacitors..

Actually... Single phase motors can be run in reverse. If you have a single phase motor, take off the panel that's attached to the motor. Inside you will find the wiring diagram for running clockwise and counter clockwise. You have some options with how to switch the circuits between CW and CCW...cheapest is to buy a switch that has enough connections and can do On(1)-Off-On(2).

1:19 AM

I wouldn't throw single phase under the bus as most have access to single phase, three phase is not as accessible unless you spend more money and/or get a VFD.

fplast

If Somebody needs a quick Change for extruding beams. I build it this way. Works perfekt and you only need Steel, 2 pillow blocks, Wheel Bolts, linear engine, and a step Drill.

carrousel mold changer. we was looking at those for when we get a bigger machine

M0lnet

Hello! We are using the hand powered precious plastic injection press and need tips on how to clean the machine after usage. What we do now is use paper towels but they do not remove all the plastic resulting in discoloration of the next batch. We have thought about using a steel brush but we are afraid that it will damage the inside surface resulting in more plastic sticking to the walls. Thanks.

you will just have to accept there will be lixing during a color/material change. likely you will use 1-2 kilos depending on the machine. simplest thing is to have a mold that you can fill where the color does not matter to use that plastic. like a tile or some other object before you go to your regular production.

I have access to a PP extruder, that has a 1.5kw, 1400rpm motor, and what appears to be a 50:1 gear ratio. This is way below the RPM of other extruders, and is unhelpful for my project. Should I be swapping out the motor or the gearbox?

9:13 AM

Ideally I want to triple or quadruple output.

Carolina

It works fine for me!

FYI, stranger still, today Firefox does not work either, says You do not have permission to access this page, when yesterday accessed and downloaded

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Actually... Single phase motors can be run in reverse. If you have a single phase motor, take off the panel that's attached to the motor. Inside you will find the wiring diagram for running clockwise and counter clockwise. You have some options with how to switch the circuits between CW and CCW...cheapest is to buy a switch that has enough connections and can do On(1)-Off-On(2).

OK! well learn a new thing everyday, I was under the impression that normally could only run one direction

However am I right in thinking single phase has much less torque than 3-phase? So an equivalent Kw 3-phase motor would have more power than single phase? Given that normal domestic single phase circuits are 16A, then a 1.5kw 3 phase motor on a VFD would be about 15A on the wall, and have more power than a 3.6kw single phase motor? (I just made a shredder version like this, to be able to take to expositions without worrying about finding 3 phase power, and opted for this set up as I had understood it would have more power, and a 1.5kw 3 phase motor is, IMHO, the minimum that the basic shredder needs to be useful..?)

Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

I have access to a PP extruder, that has a 1.5kw, 1400rpm motor, and what appears to be a 50:1 gear ratio. This is way below the RPM of other extruders, and is unhelpful for my project. Should I be swapping out the motor or the gearbox?

With a 1.5kw 3 phase motor? a basic extruder I imagine..? You have now 28rpm, I would change the gearbox for a 20:1 (70rpm what I use), 15:1 (93rpm) ratio, maybe even 10:1 (140rpm), however, IMHO, you might start getting problems with torque at that ratio, you would have to make sure the machine is hot enough to offer less resistance, filling longer moulds may be a problem

otherwise the motor may overheat easier as well

Yeah, I think I will try to source a 20:1 gearbox for these purposes and not be too ambitious due to the weaker motor.

12:59 AM

I did also see that there are 2800rpm motors available.

Andymid

With a 1.5kw 3 phase motor? a basic extruder I imagine..? You have now 28rpm, I would change the gearbox for a 20:1 (70rpm what I use), 15:1 (93rpm) ratio, maybe even 10:1 (140rpm), however, IMHO, you might start getting problems with torque at that ratio, you would have to make sure the machine is hot enough to offer less resistance, filling longer moulds may be a problem

otherwise the motor may overheat easier as well

What are the specs for the extruder pro's motor and gearbox?

Andymid

OK! well learn a new thing everyday, I was under the impression that normally could only run one direction

However am I right in thinking single phase has much less torque than 3-phase? So an equivalent Kw 3-phase motor would have more power than single phase? Given that normal domestic single phase circuits are 16A, then a 1.5kw 3 phase motor on a VFD would be about 15A on the wall, and have more power than a 3.6kw single phase motor? (I just made a shredder version like this, to be able to take to expositions without worrying about finding 3 phase power, and opted for this set up as I had understood it would have more power, and a 1.5kw 3 phase motor is, IMHO, the minimum that the basic shredder needs to be useful..?)

It's better to simply say that a 3 phase is more efficient and more smooth running than single phase. I have my doubts that using a VFD to convert single phase into three phase increases this efficiency, but at least you can control the speed. Otherwise with single phase or a 3 phase that's simply wired up, you'll have full speed or off. If this is for a shredder, a VFD for controlling speed isn't something that most people do. VFD's cost money and using a 3 phase motor is not always necessary (or accessible). for my shredder, i use a 1.5kw single phase motor. Single phase for me is about 210v on a good day, so that's about 7.1 amps. My shredder runs at something like 140rpm which is double the recommended speed (it wasn't my choice). However, it works ok and parts dont break. Recommended RPM for the shredder (not shredder pro) is 70rpm. I've seen shredders that are geared down more than this and they will break parts if they jam and you don't have an appropriate safety mechanism. For me, because i run at a higher RPM, it means i have less torque. What happens is if my machine jams, there is less overall torque applied to the components and less likely for there to be component failure (circuit breaker trips when jammed).

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I think they might actually use some niChrome wire inside, but i dont claim to really know anything about how these heaters are made. I do know that inside these heaters are coiled wires (heater element). Looks simple enough, just get your wire polarities right and i can't stress this part enough....MAKE SURE your machine is properly grounded. Indonesia is really bad about wiring proper ground cables, in fact i rarely see a ground wire connected (and if so, it's not done right). If your heater fails and things arent grounded, you might be in for a shocking experience. I found this out on my own....bare metal frames touching the ground is unfortunately, not enough. I discovered this a few weeks ago.

They're nichrome wrapped around ceramic beads/cores typically

hi! i just wanted to ask does anyone know where to buy / find an engine suitable for the shredder that uses solar energy batteries? id love to make the shredder but would much prefer if there is any option to make it through the use of solar electricity, thanks!

Our Precious Plastic Extrusion machines have a problem. A BIG one. When we are feeding shredded plastics like bags, sachets, and other light material, it does not feed into the machine. this is because it jams together and will not flow with gravity. For the last several months we solved part of the issue by using a stirring mechanism made from a 16 watt gear motor that constantly stirs the hopper. Which works fine for shredded thick flakes like bottle caps. I was speaking with a engineer in the US who builds large plastic lumber machines. He told me that they use a device to force plastic into the extrusion screw. As of now I have to pay someone to stand at the extrusion machine and push the material into the screw with a plastic stick. This is not acceptable for producing larger amounts of plastic lumber from waste. So I have come up with a cone shaped hopper and variable speed gear motor that drives the plastic into the extrusion machine with a 1 inch drill bit as the auger. Awaiting parts to arrive. Hopefully have the rough videos posted the beginning of January.

example gear motor with speed control

Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

What are the specs for the extruder pro's motor and gearbox?

Build page says 3kw motor and 263rpm... I am now building my first pro extruder, I have a 7.5:1 gearbox, so will be getting about 200rpm, so slightly higher torque... still on the fence as to speed or torque is better for extruder, once I start to fill those long beam moulds, will see (my theory is that although speed will fill them faster, which is better as long as your heaters can keep up, more torque means that once they are almost full, the back pressure will be able to handle better with less speed and more torque, and actually fill them more

) (edited)

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

It's better to simply say that a 3 phase is more efficient and more smooth running than single phase. I have my doubts that using a VFD to convert single phase into three phase increases this efficiency, but at least you can control the speed. Otherwise with single phase or a 3 phase that's simply wired up, you'll have full speed or off. If this is for a shredder, a VFD for controlling speed isn't something that most people do. VFD's cost money and using a 3 phase motor is not always necessary (or accessible). for my shredder, i use a 1.5kw single phase motor. Single phase for me is about 210v on a good day, so that's about 7.1 amps. My shredder runs at something like 140rpm which is double the recommended speed (it wasn't my choice). However, it works ok and parts dont break. Recommended RPM for the shredder (not shredder pro) is 70rpm. I've seen shredders that are geared down more than this and they will break parts if they jam and you don't have an appropriate safety mechanism. For me, because i run at a higher RPM, it means i have less torque. What happens is if my machine jams, there is less overall torque applied to the components and less likely for there to be component failure (circuit breaker trips when jammed).

Hey Ben! I am self taught in all of this electricity included, so FWIW, what I had learned (if I am not getting confused with other electric motor theory!) is that 3-phase motors, as they have 3 poles, that's 3 "pushing points" placed around the motor coils, then there is more push to the turning of the motor per revolution, whilst single phase only get 1 push per revolution, so better for higher torque applications where, if the motor does not manage to make that full revolution, then it will stop... aparte from the other things you mention I agree is more complicated getting access.. On the VFD, I would adventure that there is an increase in efficiency for power output, (although not sure it is completely offset by the loss added by the transformer process of the VFD), as 3 phase motors, AFAIK, I believe use about 2.6x more electricity, not 3x more electricity as one may expect from using 3 phases instead of one... On the rest agree with you, torque is more dangerous than speed, for me too, better to have a jam than break machine parts!

Andymid

Build page says 3kw motor and 263rpm... I am now building my first pro extruder, I have a 7.5:1 gearbox, so will be getting about 200rpm, so slightly higher torque... still on the fence as to speed or torque is better for extruder, once I start to fill those long beam moulds, will see (my theory is that although speed will fill them faster, which is better as long as your heaters can keep up, more torque means that once they are almost full, the back pressure will be able to handle better with less speed and more torque, and actually fill them more

) (edited)

So only double the kw, but triple the RPM.

I was thinking about developing bottle caps sorter (color sortation only for the beta). Moving tray + arduino + optical sensor for color recognition + small motors that push caps into the containers. Anyone tried this before?

There are dozens and dozens of color sorting projects on youtube.

Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

So only double the kw, but triple the RPM.

but it is a 3-phase motor, so in reality will have about 6x the power, as 3-phase 3kw, will use 3 phase of 3kw each

(the calcs are a bit more complicated, the power use is not 3x linear either, but always check whether a motor is single or 3-phase, there is a large difference in power!)

marjanzitnik

I was thinking about developing bottle caps sorter (color sortation only for the beta). Moving tray + arduino + optical sensor for color recognition + small motors that push caps into the containers. Anyone tried this before?

FWIW, I have been trying to develop a small scale bottle cap robot, with image recognition to differentiate between HDPE and PP caps, and classify by color as well.. still in prototype stage, as the "singulating" (putting in single file with space between so the camera can see 1 bottle cap at a time) part is proving rather difficult: when testing on a small amount of similar sized caps, works OK, but when having from 2cm up to 8-10cm caps, it is proving very frustrating... I am using a belt system (about 10cm wide, 30cm long each belt), the first belt that takes the caps up a ramp out of the deposit is the issue, later they fall on a faster second belt, then a vibrating v-channel, and then an even faster third belt that goes under the camera... although the second and third belt work OK when the caps drop regularly, the different sizes of the bottle caps causes blockages with larger caps, they cause build ups of smaller caps.. Started with TensorFlow, but am not very good with software, hardware is more my thing.. Found TeachableMachine, and managed to get some good detections on small white caps from milk cartons, using 5 HDPE and 1 PP, the PP cap is very similar to one of the HDPE caps, but as long as the camera did not move, it did a reasonable job - however then realised that could not control the sorting tube from Teachable Machine (a RAMPS based Drawbot), or the belts (have to stop the belt to give time, 1-2s for the tube to move).. At present do not have time to design the singulator part again, but the intention is there, and to learn more of a command line image recognition software, to be able to output a "stop" command 1/2 a second after the cap is seen coming into view, for the max time it takes the tube to move after the detection (which is much faster than the tube can move!), and control the belts as well (or what ever singulating system end up using... I was following a Lego sorting machine that I saw on Youtube

Andymid

but it is a 3-phase motor, so in reality will have about 6x the power, as 3-phase 3kw, will use 3 phase of 3kw each

(the calcs are a bit more complicated, the power use is not 3x linear either, but always check whether a motor is single or 3-phase, there is a large difference in power!)

Oh I didn't realise that. If you have a VFD controlled motor, but the VFD is supplied with single phase is the calc the same?

VFD can be single phase input, they have a slightly higher current draw from the input line since they have to power also the control unit. But since they can vary speed, limiting motor current and they behave pratically like a resistive load, expecially the good ones, their Cos φ is very low.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Our Precious Plastic Extrusion machines have a problem. A BIG one. When we are feeding shredded plastics like bags, sachets, and other light material, it does not feed into the machine. this is because it jams together and will not flow with gravity. For the last several months we solved part of the issue by using a stirring mechanism made from a 16 watt gear motor that constantly stirs the hopper. Which works fine for shredded thick flakes like bottle caps. I was speaking with a engineer in the US who builds large plastic lumber machines. He told me that they use a device to force plastic into the extrusion screw. As of now I have to pay someone to stand at the extrusion machine and push the material into the screw with a plastic stick. This is not acceptable for producing larger amounts of plastic lumber from waste. So I have come up with a cone shaped hopper and variable speed gear motor that drives the plastic into the extrusion machine with a 1 inch drill bit as the auger. Awaiting parts to arrive. Hopefully have the rough videos posted the beginning of January.

Hi Butte, I thought about this too for soft plastics. I'm not sure if it would work but after chopping the soft plastics and washing, running through a trommel with hot air blower which would do two things; dry the plastic and shrink the plastic into smaller/harder flakes. Theory was that they would then be usable in the extruder. Do you think this would be an option?

Andymid

FWIW, I have been trying to develop a small scale bottle cap robot, with image recognition to differentiate between HDPE and PP caps, and classify by color as well.. still in prototype stage, as the "singulating" (putting in single file with space between so the camera can see 1 bottle cap at a time) part is proving rather difficult: when testing on a small amount of similar sized caps, works OK, but when having from 2cm up to 8-10cm caps, it is proving very frustrating... I am using a belt system (about 10cm wide, 30cm long each belt), the first belt that takes the caps up a ramp out of the deposit is the issue, later they fall on a faster second belt, then a vibrating v-channel, and then an even faster third belt that goes under the camera... although the second and third belt work OK when the caps drop regularly, the different sizes of the bottle caps causes blockages with larger caps, they cause build ups of smaller caps.. Started with TensorFlow, but am not very good with software, hardware is more my thing.. Found TeachableMachine, and managed to get some good detections on small white caps from milk cartons, using 5 HDPE and 1 PP, the PP cap is very similar to one of the HDPE caps, but as long as the camera did not move, it did a reasonable job - however then realised that could not control the sorting tube from Teachable Machine (a RAMPS based Drawbot), or the belts (have to stop the belt to give time, 1-2s for the tube to move).. At present do not have time to design the singulator part again, but the intention is there, and to learn more of a command line image recognition software, to be able to output a "stop" command 1/2 a second after the cap is seen coming into view, for the max time it takes the tube to move after the detection (which is much faster than the tube can move!), and control the belts as well (or what ever singulating system end up using... I was following a Lego sorting machine that I saw on Youtube

And @marjanzitnik Like this, using an arduino. This is pretty darn cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qeyvpp_-dkk

Mr Innovative

How to make colour sorting Machine using Arduino

1

i tried that, unable to get consistent results and anything hot enough made the soft flakes stick together

Butte (PP Philippines)

i tried that, unable to get consistent results and anything hot enough made the soft flakes stick together

I know it's in efficient but could re-shred once shrunken.

it would not work. i tried everything. i even spent nearly 1000usd buying a pellet mill to try.

2:44 AM

the professionals tell me that they need a device to force it in the extrusion screw. a piston or a auger screw

our first prototype manual plastic baling machine. The local trash pickers do not have baling machines because they are very expensive, so consequently the collectors, will ship big truckloads of plastic bottles for recycling and the load is mostly air. I also have in the works a roller type plastic bottle crusher

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

it would not work. i tried everything. i even spent nearly 1000usd buying a pellet mill to try.

Okay, good to know. I wont go that route. Auger/ram it is then.

Butte (PP Philippines)

our first prototype manual plastic baling machine. The local trash pickers do not have baling machines because they are very expensive, so consequently the collectors, will ship big truckloads of plastic bottles for recycling and the load is mostly air. I also have in the works a roller type plastic bottle crusher

That is sweet. Appropriate technology at it's finest.

Geoff (PBI NTB)

And @marjanzitnik Like this, using an arduino. This is pretty darn cool. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qeyvpp_-dkk

at first glance, the parts to be sorted are all the same size? and only 4 color sorting? I do like the singulating mech, thought abut this, but w/o any other type of door/gate, the holes in the wheel would have to be the largest cap size, and if smaller caps come in then several will fit in a large hole...

Butte (PP Philippines)

our first prototype manual plastic baling machine. The local trash pickers do not have baling machines because they are very expensive, so consequently the collectors, will ship big truckloads of plastic bottles for recycling and the load is mostly air. I also have in the works a roller type plastic bottle crusher

that is a lorry jack..? Nice! Got a lot of reach there! FWIW, considering the pressure you are going to place on the bottles (although maybe I am overthinking it!), the door hinges I feel are the weakest point, and maybe to reinforce the sides better, shorter horizontal angle bars soldered to the actual corner frame, might take a lot more pressure then? And maybe another cross bar on the front top side And a friendly warning, ANYTHING that makes a lot of pressure, WHEN it fails, try and design where and how it will fail.. when it fails it will be a big release of all the pressure put into the machine, if it fails towards somebody, you may have a really bad accident - I'm not sure if the pressure on plastic bottles could push back like I am imagining, but if the hinges fail and the operator is in front of the door, bad... a simple safety precaution (for this particular danger case) may be that the operator uses the machine from the side..? I consider myself "the devils lawyer" (el abogado del diabolo), as I will always try and see how a machine may fail to therefore take precautions, so please take my suggestions as worst case failures

it pushes up mostly. I used plywood for the sides initially without problems

11:40 PM

when releasing the pressure, you have to pump the jack for it to go upwards after changing the selector lever.

11:43 PM

initially I used some m4 bolts to pin the doors closed during testing, and never was a issue of them shearing or pressure outwards. I think I over designed the sides. Next unit will use square tubing reinforce and angle bar corners/base to hold the force pulling the machine apart on the vertical axis.

11:43 PM

when releasing pressure, the bottles only spring back at most 75cm

11:44 PM

and the next unit will have wheels to move it like a hand truck

Butte (PP Philippines)

initially I used some m4 bolts to pin the doors closed during testing, and never was a issue of them shearing or pressure outwards. I think I over designed the sides. Next unit will use square tubing reinforce and angle bar corners/base to hold the force pulling the machine apart on the vertical axis.

ok! so I am surely severely over estimating the type and amount of back pressure you get from this process, good!

unit two already sold. i am surprised the amount of inquiry for buying them locally

Butte (PP Philippines)

when releasing pressure, the bottles only spring back at most 75cm

75cm! wow! that must be annoying to make compact bales! but I suppose that even then you are gaining a lot compared to original full of air!

if i had more R&D money I would buy a gasoline engine powered log splitter and use the parts to build a unit for use in the remote areas

11:46 PM

75cm spring back without tying the bale.

11:47 PM

i tried the PP strapping but it is not as reliable as using ordinary galvanized tie wire. the tie wire is what I used in the US

11:48 PM

I also have a crazy idea of a bottle crusher using two car tires that are powered by a 2or 3hp electric motor, the tires spin together and crush the bottles like a roller.

Butte (PP Philippines)

if i had more R&D money I would buy a gasoline engine powered log splitter and use the parts to build a unit for use in the remote areas

as Geoff said, appropriate technology! is that best fitted to what you have available

good electric service on the remote islands is hard to get

11:49 PM

and that is where we had a lot of ocean plastic

11:49 PM

it is not recycled, simply because it is not crushed down to compact bales for shipping

11:49 PM

so it has no value

11:51 PM

My larger goal is to build a large consolidation plant to collect all the plastic from the outlying islands, and transported via back-haul on the boats.

11:52 PM

I have the property for it, sourced all the equipment, Coke has tendered a offer to buy all my PET bottles, so just looking for funding to get it running now.

Butte (PP Philippines)

so it has no value

so you get a lot of intact bottles? Wow... here in Tenerife, we have a couple of beaches that because of their form and the local currents, bring on land a lot of ocean plastic, but it is almost 100% micro plastic, already broken down... curious!

Coke will pay me 7800USD approx per 32 foot straight truck load of baled plastic

11:54 PM

majority intact bottles, or sachets here, local source is about 75% the rest is vietnam, and china

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

Coke will pay me 7800USD approx per 32 foot straight truck load of baled plastic

wow, nice incentive, hope you manage to get your system up and running

so our plan is getting baling machines to the remote islands, buying the bales from the junk shops there. bring to the consolidation/sort factory. PET to Coke, the rest shred and sent to a plastic lumber line. 20 tons daily PET and 7 tons lumber daily is the initial target.

Butte (PP Philippines)

so our plan is getting baling machines to the remote islands, buying the bales from the junk shops there. bring to the consolidation/sort factory. PET to Coke, the rest shred and sent to a plastic lumber line. 20 tons daily PET and 7 tons lumber daily is the initial target.

what are the lumbers size you guys are producing?

Lixeiro

what are the lumbers size you guys are producing?

at present 2x4 2x2 and 1x2 inch sizes max 6 feet long. we can not go bigger because the 15kg per hour extrusion is too slow. plastic freezes before mold is full.

Butte (PP Philippines)

at present 2x4 2x2 and 1x2 inch sizes max 6 feet long. we can not go bigger because the 15kg per hour extrusion is too slow. plastic freezes before mold is full.

If the mould is heated (niChrome wire and a MMA welder) could you output faster?

Butte (PP Philippines)

majority intact bottles, or sachets here, local source is about 75% the rest is vietnam, and china

Dude, that is an awesome gig. Just coke/sprite/fanta pet?

Geoff (PBI NTB)

If the mould is heated (niChrome wire and a MMA welder) could you output faster?

that would get destroyed cause we put the mold in water after to cool it. we run 2-3 molds in a constant extrusion, generally about 7-8 hours at a time when we have plastic in stock

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Dude, that is an awesome gig. Just coke/sprite/fanta pet?

coke will buy all the clear PET from us. no matter the brand, or even if it was used for alcohol sanitizer. Coke Philippines partnered with a Thai company to build the plant here. I been hearing about it for several years that it was coming as Precious Plastic Philippines has been a participant in the Coke Re-imagine recycling project for about 4 years.

Butte (PP Philippines)

at present 2x4 2x2 and 1x2 inch sizes max 6 feet long. we can not go bigger because the 15kg per hour extrusion is too slow. plastic freezes before mold is full.

2x2 = 1kg? this takes how long to make, 5min? There is any way to heat the mould with a kind of mobile, heat element? in a construction like a guy used to create skateboards, where he heats the entire mould in a metal box with some heating element...

Butte (PP Philippines)

at present 2x4 2x2 and 1x2 inch sizes max 6 feet long. we can not go bigger because the 15kg per hour extrusion is too slow. plastic freezes before mold is full.

Are your guys in touch with ReForm Plastic Vietnam? What about create a Franchise ?

Lixeiro

Are your guys in touch with ReForm Plastic Vietnam? What about create a Franchise ?

never heard of them. Been doing PP machine building over here for last 5 years

Butte (PP Philippines)

that would get destroyed cause we put the mold in water after to cool it. we run 2-3 molds in a constant extrusion, generally about 7-8 hours at a time when we have plastic in stock

Maybe you can heat the mold making a sort of long oven with small gas burners under and a removable cover to let the mold to exit at the end of the process...

easier said than done, and we are talking a much higher cost. I already have a wood plane, and dust collector for the chips to post process my lumber

Butte (PP Philippines)

easier said than done, and we are talking a much higher cost. I already have a wood plane, and dust collector for the chips to post process my lumber

Did you know things easier to do than said?

The cost is the problem, for sure.

The big commercial systems have a water bath and series of rollers to pull the hard plastic from the die, and are much much higher than the 5hp I can do. Quite simply not economically feasible with my limited funds.. What is economic, is making the lumber ala Daves video from 5+ years ago. Commercially that is called flow molding. Running it thru a wood plane with a dust collector attached, stack it band it and send it to the buyer. At the moment I am behind schedule in production as it is due to a lack of a cramming device to force the fluffy plastics into the extrusion machine. Fluffy plastics like bubble wrap, bags, sachets, coke bottle labels, etc.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Our Precious Plastic Extrusion machines have a problem. A BIG one. When we are feeding shredded plastics like bags, sachets, and other light material, it does not feed into the machine. this is because it jams together and will not flow with gravity. For the last several months we solved part of the issue by using a stirring mechanism made from a 16 watt gear motor that constantly stirs the hopper. Which works fine for shredded thick flakes like bottle caps. I was speaking with a engineer in the US who builds large plastic lumber machines. He told me that they use a device to force plastic into the extrusion screw. As of now I have to pay someone to stand at the extrusion machine and push the material into the screw with a plastic stick. This is not acceptable for producing larger amounts of plastic lumber from waste. So I have come up with a cone shaped hopper and variable speed gear motor that drives the plastic into the extrusion machine with a 1 inch drill bit as the auger. Awaiting parts to arrive. Hopefully have the rough videos posted the beginning of January.

"So I have come up with a cone shaped hopper and variable speed gear motor that drives the plastic into the extrusion machine with a 1 inch drill bit as the auger. Awaiting parts to arrive. Hopefully have the rough videos posted the beginning of January." Please post a photo/video. I am very interested and in the absence of an agglomerator will go this way.

Butte (PP Philippines)

our first prototype manual plastic baling machine. The local trash pickers do not have baling machines because they are very expensive, so consequently the collectors, will ship big truckloads of plastic bottles for recycling and the load is mostly air. I also have in the works a roller type plastic bottle crusher

We have a lot of baking machines here in Sullana- North of Peru, mainly they bail plastic PeT bottles, and sell them to China, Plamolsa, AJE or small companies that transform them into pellets

Butte (PP Philippines)

The big commercial systems have a water bath and series of rollers to pull the hard plastic from the die, and are much much higher than the 5hp I can do. Quite simply not economically feasible with my limited funds.. What is economic, is making the lumber ala Daves video from 5+ years ago. Commercially that is called flow molding. Running it thru a wood plane with a dust collector attached, stack it band it and send it to the buyer. At the moment I am behind schedule in production as it is due to a lack of a cramming device to force the fluffy plastics into the extrusion machine. Fluffy plastics like bubble wrap, bags, sachets, coke bottle labels, etc.

Where can I find the that video? I have the large bath line to wash the plastic, but I’m always open to find better ways, also we re use the water and mixed with “ sulfato de potasio”

Hello Some you know any Plastic Sorting Robot system already available in the industry? I m curious about that and I found this one in the USA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OwYU3hwgoyw

AMP Robotics

ABC News - How robots could help solve the US recycling problem

Tadaa

Hi friends!

Is this the place to ask for machine blueprints?

The designs are all on the website: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Maybe you can heat the mold making a sort of long oven with small gas burners under and a removable cover to let the mold to exit at the end of the process...

I just had another thought about this @Butte (PP Philippines) Leave the lumber mould open at the end and point a heat gun into it. (could mount the heat gun on a stand). When the molten plastic is almost at the end, put the end flange/cap back on and heat gun the end. until all filled. Would this work?

Geoff (PBI NTB)

I just had another thought about this @Butte (PP Philippines) Leave the lumber mould open at the end and point a heat gun into it. (could mount the heat gun on a stand). When the molten plastic is almost at the end, put the end flange/cap back on and heat gun the end. until all filled. Would this work?

probably not because the air pressure will not let the air in the mold evacuate. and the molten plastic acts like a lava tube. the outside cools and the inside flows, it sort of fills in a swirling action which is the major cause of the wrinkling

1:45 AM

i have even tried liquid cooled molds but again theoutside cooled and the center flowed. the only person with successful die extrusion int he group used a 1 inch square tube as the die, with a water jacket to cool it, but he also had a slow flow rate of plastic. Mine on the other hand was running 15kg per hour, which moved the plastic too fast into the die, and then when I made the die longer, (6 feet) I ended up just blowing apart the mold with hydraulic force because the plastic stuck to the inside of the die and would not go out.

1:46 AM

there really is not a easy method for large diameter dies at a small budget. we can do flow molding, (daves original method) or filament/chopper to make pellets, but the bigger you go the difficulty and cost increases exponentially.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

there really is not a easy method for large diameter dies at a small budget. we can do flow molding, (daves original method) or filament/chopper to make pellets, but the bigger you go the difficulty and cost increases exponentially.

FWIW, can't remember where I saw it, but making long beams with an open sided press style mould... fixed length beams, measured weight of molten plastic spread out as best possible, and then closed with a side cap with about 3-4 hydraulic jacks all linked together to get equal pressure.. is a lot more cumbersome to build, but the beams come out smooth as well...

Hey peeps!

11:57 PM

would like to discuss a moment the Shredder Pro V4 (dual axle), as I am building it at the moment and would like to share some observations....:

12:00 AM

So I have seen some scary pictures around where the shredder has destroyed itself, and supposedly was because of a small design issue in the fixed blades that allowed plastic to accumulate until the machine broke... I think I can indicate that is not quite true... but also that the designers of the plans maybe should have realised what I will mention next, as I think the issues that led to the machine destroying itself could have been warned about...:

the plans call for blades and spacers of 6mm, 4mm, and 2.5mm, and the set on each axle sums exactly 300mm, which is the same as the hex part of the axle... from experience, when ordering laser cut metal sheet, there is normally an "acceptable tolerance" of the sheet of metal itself, so when ordering 6mm laser cut steel, I normally get somewhere between 5.8 (worst case) and 6.05mm, with an average of about 5.9mm (to make a round number).. same with 4mm sheet (3.9mm) and 2.5mm (2,4mm) - these numbers have been rounded to exaggerate somewhat, but almost always I get slightly thinner, so can imagine this happens all over... however, if we take the 74-75 parts in a set on each axle, blades, large and small spacers, which SHOULD measure 300mm all added up, but we have a loss of 0.1 on each part (7.4mm total!), then they will only measure 292.6mm, so when you tighten down the nuts which hold this set firmly together, the nuts will only tighten against the hex part, leaving 7.4mm of space... this space will be, for the person mounting the axle unless they know what to look for, imperceptible, as it will only be 0.1mm between each part, and very likely that there will APPEAR to be no movement between blades and spacers, yet with enough force (a lot more force than a human could exert directly, but way less than the torque that the machine has available), the blades will displace and twist, up to 7mm...

it is clear that this is not good, and IMHO, the theory of the plastic trapped causing the breakage of the machine is indirect.. trapped plastic may push the blades enough out of line so that they contact the fixed blades enough for them to get stuck enough to force the fixed blades out and up, resulting in the damage I have observed.. however, if the blades and spacers were of correct thickness, then there would not be any space available to push the blades around, and that small amount of trapped plastic would just get shredded, as the blades are correctly guided and will easily overcome such a small amount of plastic accumulated, AS LONG AS THEY ARE FIRMLY FIXED.. I had to add 0.1 and 0.15 supplement spacers from calibrated steel foil, to make up the distance need so the axle blades would mesh with the fixed blades, which is another issue that appears if your laser cuts are undersized, but again, most probably not noticeable until too late... the way I found out was actually adding an extra spacer, as it seemed to me that the set was possibly slightly loose, and realising when tightening down, that the set all mounted still seemed to measure 300mm, the same length as the hex part, even thou I had added 4mm more to the set... thereafter measuring each and every blade and spacer to 1/100th of a mm, and adding them all up, I realised I was almost 5mm short of the 300mm, and therefore adding 4mm still was not firmly tightening down the set, and also caused a difference between this axle and the fixed blades, which no longer coincided as the 4mm spacer had pushed everything over

12:27 AM

this SHOULD have been picked up on during the design and experimentation phase... the moment that both axles are mounted in the video, without showing the actually mounting, took me almost 10 days, realising all of this and ordering parts and making supplement spacers.. even just after in the video, I see that spinning one axle makes the other spin, as there is still contact between them.. I have managed to remove all contact except for 2 points, after adding up and calculating, then averaging out the spacers and blades, and then adding the correct amount of supplement, to get the set to really measure 300mm (actually measures 299.2, but i have left the required 1mm offset for the bottom nut, and added another 2.5mm spacer at the other end extra, so I am very sure I am compressing the whole set with the nuts, not the hex part!)

12:32 AM

anyway, just needed to let that out, have been with this part of the build last 10 days - 2 weeks, and after learning all I had learned, and talking to local machine shops, this issue is reasonable common (that machines requiring supplements between 0.05 and 0.25, which are readily available locally) and I think should have been included in the build process, as I am pretty sure now that the incidents that I have seen will most probably have come from slightly thinner laser cut metal, together with people who did not know quite enough to realise on mounting that something was not right... and with 0.05mm loss on each part, the play is still 3.7mm, even more difficult to detect without correct measuring, and still enough IMHO, to cause fatal crashing between fixed and mobile blades! (edited)

Andymid

it is clear that this is not good, and IMHO, the theory of the plastic trapped causing the breakage of the machine is indirect.. trapped plastic may push the blades enough out of line so that they contact the fixed blades enough for them to get stuck enough to force the fixed blades out and up, resulting in the damage I have observed.. however, if the blades and spacers were of correct thickness, then there would not be any space available to push the blades around, and that small amount of trapped plastic would just get shredded, as the blades are correctly guided and will easily overcome such a small amount of plastic accumulated, AS LONG AS THEY ARE FIRMLY FIXED.. I had to add 0.1 and 0.15 supplement spacers from calibrated steel foil, to make up the distance need so the axle blades would mesh with the fixed blades, which is another issue that appears if your laser cuts are undersized, but again, most probably not noticeable until too late... the way I found out was actually adding an extra spacer, as it seemed to me that the set was possibly slightly loose, and realising when tightening down, that the set all mounted still seemed to measure 300mm, the same length as the hex part, even thou I had added 4mm more to the set... thereafter measuring each and every blade and spacer to 1/100th of a mm, and adding them all up, I realised I was almost 5mm short of the 300mm, and therefore adding 4mm still was not firmly tightening down the set, and also caused a difference between this axle and the fixed blades, which no longer coincided as the 4mm spacer had pushed everything over

I saw the issue watching at the blueprints, but before starting the making of the machine. I'm working in the metalworking industry so I know well that rolled steel plates aren't precise enough to base a similar design on them. It is common to see +/- 0.2mm thickness even on the same sheet if measured in different zones. And they are also always warped, sometime less, sometime more. On laser cut parts in the +/- 200mm diameter I commonly have to do with 0.1 mm thickness difference from side to side and sometime up to 0.5mm warping. That is the main reason why I decided to make my own design, with blades made from a solid steel bar, on the lathe.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I saw the issue watching at the blueprints, but before starting the making of the machine. I'm working in the metalworking industry so I know well that rolled steel plates aren't precise enough to base a similar design on them. It is common to see +/- 0.2mm thickness even on the same sheet if measured in different zones. And they are also always warped, sometime less, sometime more. On laser cut parts in the +/- 200mm diameter I commonly have to do with 0.1 mm thickness difference from side to side and sometime up to 0.5mm warping. That is the main reason why I decided to make my own design, with blades made from a solid steel bar, on the lathe.

Very true, I am sure my parts were all cut on the same sheet; the blades for shaft 2 went from 5.81mm to 5,95mm, with only 1 at each extreme, and most of theblades were around 5.9, whilst the blades for shaft 1 came in between 5.91 and 6.06mm, again only 1 at each extreme, most where around 5.95mm

I don't mind this issue, as sorting carefully between the spacers and the supplements, I managed that all sub-sets (of blades and 2 spacers) where within 0.05mm of each other, and then alternated these along the axle to even out any possible axial displacement... AFAIK it is something you have to work with and take into consideration when building stuff that need to be this precise would love to see photos of the making of those blades!!

1

Andymid

FWIW, can't remember where I saw it, but making long beams with an open sided press style mould... fixed length beams, measured weight of molten plastic spread out as best possible, and then closed with a side cap with about 3-4 hydraulic jacks all linked together to get equal pressure.. is a lot more cumbersome to build, but the beams come out smooth as well...

still after all that work, it is still way simpler to use it as is or run it thru a wood planer.

1

Andymid

Very true, I am sure my parts were all cut on the same sheet; the blades for shaft 2 went from 5.81mm to 5,95mm, with only 1 at each extreme, and most of theblades were around 5.9, whilst the blades for shaft 1 came in between 5.91 and 6.06mm, again only 1 at each extreme, most where around 5.95mm

I don't mind this issue, as sorting carefully between the spacers and the supplements, I managed that all sub-sets (of blades and 2 spacers) where within 0.05mm of each other, and then alternated these along the axle to even out any possible axial displacement... AFAIK it is something you have to work with and take into consideration when building stuff that need to be this precise would love to see photos of the making of those blades!!

I put them here sometime. If you want to, IG @insta_ventu

Has anyone had experience with a hand cracked shredder? Or is a motor powered shredder just so much better I shouldn’t even consider a hand cranked one?

go with a motor, hand cranked is for hobbyist, not serious production

SLATTS

Butte (PP Philippines)

go with a motor, hand cranked is for hobbyist, not serious production

I also assume it will take a ton more time because you have to put plastic in it, shred it and repeat. You can’t just keep feeding it plastic.

also because the human bodymakes a fraction of the power that a electric motor can

How much HP electric motor do I need to have on my shredder to shredd the PET bottle necks and PP chairs?

at least 3hp

7:43 AM

and ideally 5 or above

7:43 AM

the pet bottle neck are extremely hard to shred

7:43 AM

i have run 6.5hp gasoline engine with the v3 shredder

I have another gasoline engine its 16hp, is there any way to connect the shredder to the gasoline engine? Or its not recommended?

9:12 AM

Aa oki got it

N.V.I New Vision Implements

Aa oki got it

it will work but you need to reduce the speed down with belt and pulley

MIfoodie

Has anyone had experience with a hand cracked shredder? Or is a motor powered shredder just so much better I shouldn’t even consider a hand cranked one?

Soooo not worth it. It's an expensive party trick. You could hook it up to a bicycle which would also be an expensive party trick but it would at least have a better output capacity. If you can go the electric motor route, that'd be the best. (edited)

6:52 AM

Will this motor work with the shredder?? (edited)

6:55 AM

With a speed controller?? (edited)

foofred

Will this motor work with the shredder?? (edited)

NO!

foofred

Will this motor work with the shredder?? (edited)

Maybe 40 of them connected together.

1

Hello, I'm Kao from precious plastic bangkok. I have an idea to make the Shredder Pro from a normal Shredder blade. (because it was donated) and will start building soon Has anyone here ever done this or have any suggestions for me? Thanks. (edited)

Gap

Hello, I'm Kao from precious plastic bangkok. I have an idea to make the Shredder Pro from a normal Shredder blade. (because it was donated) and will start building soon Has anyone here ever done this or have any suggestions for me? Thanks. (edited)

Stick to the designs as intended unless you have a really good idea on what you're doing. That's my suggestion

I'm curious, do you plan on having two sets of normal blades rotating inside the shredder instead of the pro style blades? i think this is what you're saying but im not 100% clear

foofred

Click to see attachment 🖼️

not even close.

7:34 AM

We are on our second unit of the manual baling machine. Now with wheels to move it around, and a tapered design to allow for easier bale extraction. Designed for remote islands and junk shops in more poor areas that can not afford to buy hydraulic machines.

1

7:35 AM

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Stick to the designs as intended unless you have a really good idea on what you're doing. That's my suggestion

I'm curious, do you plan on having two sets of normal blades rotating inside the shredder instead of the pro style blades? i think this is what you're saying but im not 100% clear

Yep i plan to use normal blades two set

Butte (PP Philippines)

We are on our second unit of the manual baling machine. Now with wheels to move it around, and a tapered design to allow for easier bale extraction. Designed for remote islands and junk shops in more poor areas that can not afford to buy hydraulic machines.

oh wow thats super nice! Super useful for areas with no access to stable electricity and have lots of waste! would you like to make a how to? it would be amazing!!

@valerine can help you

(edited)

Dear all, I'm trying to make a PP Shredder Pro and need some advice from someone that has made one. The specific advice i require is which Motor/gearbox and control unit you used? And preferably advice as to a company that I can source everything that i need. I have made the actual shredder but am receiving conflicting reports about which motor set up I need.

2:41 PM

Many thanks

Hello again, I'm using a dedicated 32A feed and was thinking of running a 4 or 5.5 KW motor with a 50/1 reduction worm drive gearbox to give me 28rpm at 1370 n/m of torque ( and not run it at full capacity) I was also thinking of using a Variable Frequency drive to control the motor. Does this sound like sense? I am based in the UK and would have to source everything here.

1

2:53 PM

Any help would be very gratefully received. Thank you

@Slatts With 5.5 Kw you will get about 1875Nm. You can control the Speed and torque with the VFD. (edited)

Hello everyone, I’m a volunteer in an NGO in Benin, in Porto-Novo, that works on plastic recycling. Activities are already ongoing, but we want to improve the efficiency of our processes, especially the washing steps. We are looking for a drying machine for our plastic flakes. Do you have a contact - preferably in West Africa - who builds drying machines ? Thank you so much for your help

Slatts

Hello again, I'm using a dedicated 32A feed and was thinking of running a 4 or 5.5 KW motor with a 50/1 reduction worm drive gearbox to give me 28rpm at 1370 n/m of torque ( and not run it at full capacity) I was also thinking of using a Variable Frequency drive to control the motor. Does this sound like sense? I am based in the UK and would have to source everything here.

Try to find a gearbox with two stages reduction, like 3:1 parallel gears and 15 or 20:1 worm gear. In this way is more efficient, then you have a higher output per motor power (so you can keep the power at 5.5kw with more torque or using a smaller motor, for cost saving). Worm gearboxes with high ratio have poor efficiency, and they dissipate energy as a lot of heat.

1

10:40 PM

I didn't have personal experience with the official shredder, I made a different design, what I wrote is a rule of thumb for worm gearboxes. (edited)

Thanks for the feedback. I am Fred from brunei. Trying to build PP in brunei . Electronic parts are the key challenge to source out here. Heavily rely on online vendor

7:15 AM

We build the injector body already.

7:15 AM

Trying to buy these parts for the injector

7:15 AM

Will this help?

7:16 AM

Shredder we plan to use coconut grinder and build a bicycle powered shredder unless anyone can share online link to get a motor

7:17 AM

Appreciate everyone comments and suggestions

foofred

Will this help?

AliExpress/Shopee/Lazada and a few others out there will have all the electronics you need except for heavy items like electrical motors. So your heaters and PIDs? No problem for injection machine. Just make sure you get the right heater dimensions for the pipe you're using.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

AliExpress/Shopee/Lazada and a few others out there will have all the electronics you need except for heavy items like electrical motors. So your heaters and PIDs? No problem for injection machine. Just make sure you get the right heater dimensions for the pipe you're using.

Thanks for your response. Seem like the PID and heaters look good . I can process and order them. Just the motor is my best headache. Worst case is to use coconut grinder as the shredder and convert the shredder I purchased from PP as bike powered shredder

foofred

Thanks for your response. Seem like the PID and heaters look good . I can process and order them. Just the motor is my best headache. Worst case is to use coconut grinder as the shredder and convert the shredder I purchased from PP as bike powered shredder

Don't fret too much over the motor. If you're creative, you will find a solution. My suggestion is that if you can't find a motor mounted on a gearbox, you can use a pulley system to get the appropriate gear ratio for what you need. Using a bicycle sounds green and cool but it's unfortunately not adequate for most workspaces. I mean, it's a cool piece to show people but it's difficult to get the job done in a reasonable time period. hahaha

1

Indeed thanks

Slatts

Hello again, I'm using a dedicated 32A feed and was thinking of running a 4 or 5.5 KW motor with a 50/1 reduction worm drive gearbox to give me 28rpm at 1370 n/m of torque ( and not run it at full capacity) I was also thinking of using a Variable Frequency drive to control the motor. Does this sound like sense? I am based in the UK and would have to source everything here.

That sounds amazing, cause you will have the possibility of shredding more plastic with that power and the motor won’t get hotter.

Hello! I'm new here and we've built some PP machines here in Venezuela. We're currently running into some issues with the injector, not sure if this is the right channel to ask about it. One of the main issues we're currently having is plastic leakage while the injector rod is in the upright position and there is no pressure being applied to the melting plastic prior to injection. Any tips?

Alberto

Hello! I'm new here and we've built some PP machines here in Venezuela. We're currently running into some issues with the injector, not sure if this is the right channel to ask about it. One of the main issues we're currently having is plastic leakage while the injector rod is in the upright position and there is no pressure being applied to the melting plastic prior to injection. Any tips?

You need to have a cap or something to cover the injection nozzle. The type of cap you need depends on the style of injection nozzle you have. If it's threaded, you can use a bolt or cap. I suggest welding on some small rods to the cap for easier handling so you dont burn yourself on accident. If you have a non-threaded nozzle that's more of a cone shape, you'll need to find something that either covers the nozzle or fits inside the nozzle and a means for holding it in place untill you're ready to press. I hope this helps

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

You need to have a cap or something to cover the injection nozzle. The type of cap you need depends on the style of injection nozzle you have. If it's threaded, you can use a bolt or cap. I suggest welding on some small rods to the cap for easier handling so you dont burn yourself on accident. If you have a non-threaded nozzle that's more of a cone shape, you'll need to find something that either covers the nozzle or fits inside the nozzle and a means for holding it in place untill you're ready to press. I hope this helps

This helps a lot ben! Yes, we have a cone-shaped nozzle and we were thinking of doing something like a cap to stop it from leaking, but just wanted to check here if this was a problem that most people experienced or if it was something that went wrong during assembly

Alberto

This helps a lot ben! Yes, we have a cone-shaped nozzle and we were thinking of doing something like a cap to stop it from leaking, but just wanted to check here if this was a problem that most people experienced or if it was something that went wrong during assembly

Ah, yeah you're doing just fine. It's a problem almost everyone has to deal with unless maybe your injection machine was horizontal instead of vertical. Good luck!

1

Alberto

Hello! I'm new here and we've built some PP machines here in Venezuela. We're currently running into some issues with the injector, not sure if this is the right channel to ask about it. One of the main issues we're currently having is plastic leakage while the injector rod is in the upright position and there is no pressure being applied to the melting plastic prior to injection. Any tips?

Yes, injector need to be closed. Some uses threaded caps, for mine I made a valve.

Thanks this help a lot guys! @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Alberto

This helps a lot ben! Yes, we have a cone-shaped nozzle and we were thinking of doing something like a cap to stop it from leaking, but just wanted to check here if this was a problem that most people experienced or if it was something that went wrong during assembly

if possible use something non-conductive, or if metal have a space for plastic to collect that will mainly be in contact. to prevent sucking heat out of the hotend. I'm a noob but this made a big difference for me (edited)

so my injector is shocking me... i know it's a short somewhere. it's very annoying. the PID controllers do not have a ground terminal...anyone else had this issue? the entire frame is electrified

foofred

Thanks for your response. Seem like the PID and heaters look good . I can process and order them. Just the motor is my best headache. Worst case is to use coconut grinder as the shredder and convert the shredder I purchased from PP as bike powered shredder

But you can’t find a motor using facebook market ?

4:53 AM

Hello, does anyone has experience feeding the extruder with big pieces of plastic bags (I mean scrap) or entire one? Cause I want to skip the part where I need pellets or agglomerated material. The machine has a screw with 120mm diameter and 3,6 meters of effective length. Thanks for the tips in advance

foofred

Thanks for your response. Seem like the PID and heaters look good . I can process and order them. Just the motor is my best headache. Worst case is to use coconut grinder as the shredder and convert the shredder I purchased from PP as bike powered shredder

I was looking in Brunei via Facebook and I couldn’t find electric motors but I found a couple electric Winch that has a motor and a gear box that you can adapt to the shredder

Oscar Cornejo

But you can’t find a motor using facebook market ?

Thanks I will try your suggestion

GarrettCadou

so my injector is shocking me... i know it's a short somewhere. it's very annoying. the PID controllers do not have a ground terminal...anyone else had this issue? the entire frame is electrified

Disconnect all the heating element and try if the issue disappear. Then re-connect an element at time and try. Probably one is damaged.

1

GarrettCadou

so my injector is shocking me... i know it's a short somewhere. it's very annoying. the PID controllers do not have a ground terminal...anyone else had this issue? the entire frame is electrified

you can use a test pen and see whats going on. If your test pen lights up only when the heaters are turned on, that likely means there is a short in one of the heaters. If it is always on, you might have L and N wires (line and neutral) mixed. I suggest having a good ground connected to the machine as well

9:11 AM

Oh and for using the test pen, you'd touch it against any bare metal part of the machine

I wanted to touch on a conversation that I saw from a couple of months ago. Anyone have experience using HDPE or PET with the injector? We had lots of trouble getting a good mold with PET and then switched to Polypropylene (PP) and it made a world of difference. Should we give up on PET/HDPE?

1

Alberto

I wanted to touch on a conversation that I saw from a couple of months ago. Anyone have experience using HDPE or PET with the injector? We had lots of trouble getting a good mold with PET and then switched to Polypropylene (PP) and it made a world of difference. Should we give up on PET/HDPE?

I havent met anyone who uses PET. It is too difficult to work with and so it's better to say it's just incompatible with all machines except for shredder.

And here's where I blow your mind, @Alberto. There's two types of HDPE. Injection Blow The main difference is the viscosities between the two. Injection HDPE has a much lower viscosity so it flows much better. Blow HDPE is quite thick and is intended to be used through a process called Blow Moulding. You might be able to extrude it and then inject air into it, expand it into a mould, and be fine...but don't expect to be able to have a smooth workflow. Blow HDPE source: Bottles (mostly shampoo and cleaning supply bottles) Injection HDPE source: Bottlecaps There's other sources but that's the simple and for sure thing. Bottlecaps from drinks like coke will be HDPE but for food container lids it tends to be PP. Hopefully this helps.

1

Hello PP community! I am almost finished a shredder build but I am having an issue I hope someone might be able to help with. Every piece of plastic I try to shred (thick/thin) gets trapped between the static and rotating blades as shown in the video. I have tried multiple different tooth arrangements and the same happens. Has anyone ever had this problem? Can anyone recommend a fix? Massive thanks in advance

Ian

yep! i had the lead and neutral swapped so my machine stopped electrocuting me. now i'm back to the same old problem of blown heater bands. I am at ends with this. I have blown 6 in the last year. i've changed all the wiring, the SSRs, I guess I need to try the PIDs next?

inearnest

Hello PP community! I am almost finished a shredder build but I am having an issue I hope someone might be able to help with. Every piece of plastic I try to shred (thick/thin) gets trapped between the static and rotating blades as shown in the video. I have tried multiple different tooth arrangements and the same happens. Has anyone ever had this problem? Can anyone recommend a fix? Massive thanks in advance

Ian

Take my advice with a grain of salt but it almost looks like your hopper is slightly too big

inearnest

Hello PP community! I am almost finished a shredder build but I am having an issue I hope someone might be able to help with. Every piece of plastic I try to shred (thick/thin) gets trapped between the static and rotating blades as shown in the video. I have tried multiple different tooth arrangements and the same happens. Has anyone ever had this problem? Can anyone recommend a fix? Massive thanks in advance

Ian

Here's the fix... Take apart your shredder box. Change the layout of the blades so it pulls material to the middle instead of a side. This will keep it from pulling material to one side and not shredding

1

No matter how wires are connected, if you have the machine under tension there is a contact somewhere and you have to check earth connection and the main line RCD. Maybe it is only a damaged wire somewhere. In regard to the blown heaters, if the thermocouples aren't close enough to them, and if the controller isn't set correctly, the bands reach a too high temperature before they being disconnected. I have only experience about my controllers and setup, but for example I set the maximum duty cycle on the controllers at around 75% on the barrel and 65% on the injector to allow them to heat evenly to avoid too high temperature spots.

I’ve tried to work with Pet and it was a mess, the posts, beams and everything i’ve made got broken easily + the fact that were a challenge to take them out from the mold

me and my team want to build every thing you have, but have some issue with finding the motor and stuff you have to make that extruder maby you can help with witch motor your using ? and VFD ? thanks

Hello im new to Precious Plastic. Im a 3D printer with a small home buisiness. And im looking for a way to recycle bottles and plastic into fillament i can use to 3D print. Im looking for a small scale fillament extruder for DIY. If anyone knows of a good tutorial please send it my way. Looking forward to making friends and joining in new conversations

Deathguard999

me and my team want to build every thing you have, but have some issue with finding the motor and stuff you have to make that extruder maby you can help with witch motor your using ? and VFD ? thanks

who are you talking to?

Where are you located? maybe someone local to you knows where to find parts?

I am looking for peoples' experience with the basic shredder versus the Pro shredder with two axles. The basic shredder has given us a taste, but it we quickly ran into its volume limitations and the hands-on attention it needs to get things fed, unstuck, pushed down to the teeth, etc. Intuitively I think the pro will do a better job of grabbing material and pulling it down between the two sets of blades. Anyone have anecdotes or even videos of a Pro in action? Or, does anyone have experience with other machines that work well for the same purpose off the shelf?

JohnNephew

I am looking for peoples' experience with the basic shredder versus the Pro shredder with two axles. The basic shredder has given us a taste, but it we quickly ran into its volume limitations and the hands-on attention it needs to get things fed, unstuck, pushed down to the teeth, etc. Intuitively I think the pro will do a better job of grabbing material and pulling it down between the two sets of blades. Anyone have anecdotes or even videos of a Pro in action? Or, does anyone have experience with other machines that work well for the same purpose off the shelf?

definitely the shredder pro has a better grabing since is double axis, but you'll still need to be there to make sure it happens, because sometimes if you shred round objects (like yogurt containers) it might need a little help, it really depends on what you are shredding

Thanks! We've gotten an enormous ongoing supply of pill bottles (overwhelmingly HDPE), some of which are pretty large (i'm going to guess liter or more sometimes), so it sounds like they would still require some attention or perhaps pre-cutting.

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

who are you talking to?

Where are you located? maybe someone local to you knows where to find parts?

they dont want to shere there knowlage about engine

Question: What would be the most cost effective option for getting a full set of machines? I don’t have a welder, lathe, etc. I only have a drill press.

Hello am looking for helps with The Lego brick mold has anybody built it and can help me figure out how thick the metal material needs to be?

Deathguard999

they dont want to shere there knowlage about engine

Well, i don't know what country you are located in so the only place i know that might have what you need is AliExpress.

MIfoodie

Question: What would be the most cost effective option for getting a full set of machines? I don’t have a welder, lathe, etc. I only have a drill press.

If you can't build it yourself, then buy the machines already built. In some cases you can buy kits and save some money that way. In some cases you might find some people willing to donate money or time for this sort of thing but you'll have to ask around.

1

1plasticlife.org

Hello am looking for helps with The Lego brick mold has anybody built it and can help me figure out how thick the metal material needs to be?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/brick-mould Step 4: Assembly The mould comes in 3 key parts. The female top section of the mould requires no welding and is made of interlocking parts that are bolted together. The male lower section is completely welded. Each piece is also named very specifically to help you order and assemble. These names will also be engraved onto the mould to help you assemble. For example AB5x2. “A” - First letter defines what part group it belongs to. “B” - Second letter defines which part it is in that group. “5” - First number defines the thickness of the metal in mm the part is made from. “x2” - Specifies the number of pieces required per order to complete the mould.

Brick mould

Recycled plastic has the potential to replace more conventional and wasteful building materials such as hollow blocks. In this How-to, you will learn how to assemble the mould for the extruded plastic brick, ready for production. This brick was developed with the Extrusion Pro machine. Learn here how to build it:

Looking to buy Shredder PRO in Europe, any suggestions?

marjanzitnik

Looking to buy Shredder PRO in Europe, any suggestions?

https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder-pro/shredder-pro-fully-built/

Machines :: Shredder Pro :: Shredder Pro Fully Built

Hey folks. Sharing our latest shedder BASIC delivery to local community, near Bratislava, Slovakia, vs. our more safer design, Hugonátor 1.1. . Mainly its safer for workshop purposes on schools, where we work a lot with students. Maybe you find it interesting, or inspiring. Safery should be priority, but of course sometimes its longer process to implement everything

Martin PP Slovakia

Hey folks. Sharing our latest shedder BASIC delivery to local community, near Bratislava, Slovakia, vs. our more safer design, Hugonátor 1.1. . Mainly its safer for workshop purposes on schools, where we work a lot with students. Maybe you find it interesting, or inspiring. Safery should be priority, but of course sometimes its longer process to implement everything

did you check out our latest design? Safety was the top 1 prority

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33-

SHR - 3.3

Shredding is the first step of processing the precious plastic that you collected. It will break apart it into flakes and then they will be ready to be processed with the other machines to create new precious products

. The main diffference between the Shredder Basic and PRO it's their shredding capacity, the SHRPRO can shred up to 50 kg/h and ...

Carolina

did you check out our latest design? Safety was the top 1 prority

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33-

btw Caro there are some questions at the bottom of that How-to

1

Hello! The DIY extruders in this community are phenomenal! Yet, I want to know what are the best commercial waste plastic extruders that big players have made and are available in market?

Hi! I'm about to start business, and I got the shredder basic and also the basic extruder. Im wandering the repair cost for each of them. Any ideas of the aproximate cost?

Also, I forgot to ask... Can anyone tell me what the lifespan is??? Id really apreciate any and all help

TAdri

Hi! I'm about to start business, and I got the shredder basic and also the basic extruder. Im wandering the repair cost for each of them. Any ideas of the aproximate cost?

It depends if you do it by your self or not and what piece needs to be replaced or repaired. So it can go from almost nothing to the half of the price of the machine

so, im planing on sending it to a workshop for repairs

Oscar Cornejo

It depends if you do it by your self or not and what piece needs to be replaced or repaired. So it can go from almost nothing to the half of the price of the machine

What would u charge for this?

What exactly happened to your machine ? and where are you from?

I bought It from a friend of mine and he didnt know how to make things out of It... So he left It on his garden shed, and so It rusted and all that stuff. He also forgot to clean the interior, but id asume that turning on heat will solve this problem (edited)

Oscar Cornejo

What exactly happened to your machine ? and where are you from?

Spain malaga (edited)

5:45 PM

So I supose a bit far

5:45 PM

Also Im asking pricing so that I dont get an overpriced repair

TAdri

What would u charge for this?

I wouldnt spend more than 100 euros on it. Even if it's running, it looks like a headache. Chances are it will have lots of problems, if it runs. You can likely salvage the motor and gearbox if they're rated properly. What about the rest of the electronics? Is there a PID? are the heaters installed?

2:52 AM

100 euros is my high end for that.... i wouldnt buy it since i have a working machine but i'd consider rebuilding the whole thing and maybe save the motor and gearbox (again, if they're the right spec). Maybe you can reuse the table it's on? Whatever is going on, it needs lots of TLC

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_L07xipOFAo the v3 shredder can shred cloth if you put enough HP in it. this was upgraded to use larger hex bar axle, and the bolts are structural steel bolt, not thread rod, bit otherwise same.

Precious Plastic Philippines

Efficient Plastic Recycling in Remote Locations: 7.5hp Gasoline Eng...

TAdri

I bought It from a friend of mine and he didnt know how to make things out of It... So he left It on his garden shed, and so It rusted and all that stuff. He also forgot to clean the interior, but id asume that turning on heat will solve this problem (edited)

Heat it up and once you are at 270°C start the motor - rust looks not too tragic

TAdri

I bought It from a friend of mine and he didnt know how to make things out of It... So he left It on his garden shed, and so It rusted and all that stuff. He also forgot to clean the interior, but id asume that turning on heat will solve this problem (edited)

Start with removing the plastic. Probably the screw can come out with all the plastic with some gentle hammering (plastic shrinks during cooling). For the rust, just put it in a bath of acid, I'm used to clean rust with hydrochloric, but also sulfuric and phosphoric does the job. It is just a matter of paying attention, using gloves and other protective equipment, and work near a water tap to wash away immediately any acid coming in contact with the skin (just a precaution). You can use some household products containing acids, like drain cleaners, or limescale cleaners. Here (I'm in Italy) you can find them easily in bricolage shops, supermarkets etc. Put the part in a container and cover it with the acid, if too big, you can use a brush to put acid on the part. Then rinse thoroughly all with fresh water. Avoid to put non steel parts in the acid, or parts containing bearings like the universal joint, or the gearmotor. Only the bare extruder pipe.

Ok! thanks, ill give an update on the machine when i get it cleaner

4:26 PM

I also realised that it hasn't got the correct screw... he told me that he used a wood drill instead! (edited)

4:26 PM

I really dont know how it affects the machine

4:27 PM

but should i change it?

hello, im new to this, i'm useless when it cams to electronics and wiring. i'm good with my hand, a good set of instructions i'm good to go. i like to build things. and i really like the Precious Plastic Injector idea. i love that they provide a list of electronics needed build one. however i feel the 35x45 mm band heaters are a little small for what i want to do. i want to build one with 2.5 inch band heaters. The blue print i downloaded for the Precious Plastic Injector did provide a electric schematics, but its not enough detail for me. can anybody help me out, with what electronics, band heaters, ect. i need. i think i cant find everything i need on Amazon.

TAdri

I also realised that it hasn't got the correct screw... he told me that he used a wood drill instead! (edited)

If I'm not mistaken, that was used on the first version of the extrusion machine. Does it work? Yes. Does it work well?

depends on what you're doing.

1

12:46 AM

Oh, some machine builders will sell you just the barrel and screw if that's all you need. One of the important factors of the extrusion machine is to not have a huge gap between the barrel and screw, I'm not sure how well that wood auger fits in there.

PlasticPatil304

Hello! The DIY extruders in this community are phenomenal! Yet, I want to know what are the best commercial waste plastic extruders that big players have made and are available in market?

Any help regarding this is appreciated

PlasticPatil304

Any help regarding this is appreciated

I think most of us don't work in that sector so it's not as easily visible to us. In Indonesia, there seems to be the domestically produced machines and then there's the imported ones from China. The domestic machines are a mystery to me since the people who produce the machines aren't very clear and open about what they're making/selling...like they're either being protective or secretive with what they're doing which doesn't help since the machines might cost around usd $10,000 or so. The chinese machines you can find on alibaba. What's good? I have not a clue. If you're willing to make the investment, you need to do the research or find someone who can do the research for you.

Hello, I am running a sheet press workspace. I have been contacted by a customer on recycling fishing nets. He said that he is not sure about the type but it probably is nylon/PA. Does anyone have experience with fishing nets?

Doruk Yıldırım

Hello, I am running a sheet press workspace. I have been contacted by a customer on recycling fishing nets. He said that he is not sure about the type but it probably is nylon/PA. Does anyone have experience with fishing nets?

Usually it's PP but not limited to PP.

It depends, fishing nets can be made out of a lot of various materials, here is Europe, they will mostly be referred as nylon (PA) or polyester (PET or one of its variation). There might be some PP and PE as well. Like for other plastic, even within one family, you have a large quantity of variation, so try to separate each fishing net, so you are sure to have a homogeneous plastic source. The polyester ones will be difficult to deal with, with a very short range of workable temperature, but the PA is relatively easy to melt. It requires a higher temperature to be melted (240-250°C) and is more liquid, but other than than, you can inject, extrude, press etc... If you can try to dry it before as well in a oven at low temperature, or a specific dryer.

2

1

Thanks for the replies:)

Fritz @easymoulds

Heat it up and once you are at 270°C start the motor - rust looks not too tragic

270ºC?¿ I hope that was a typo! At 270ºC you will carbonize just about any plastic that we process normally - you want to avoid carbonizing plastic inside the machine at all costs, as when this happens basically you will get black abrasive sand crystals, which don't melt, and when accumulate enough to trap the machinery, will be almost impossible to unmount and clean... happened to me early on twice before realising my temps were way off.. first time in injector had to take it to a 10 ton press to remove the plunger, inside of barrel was completely ruined, scratched so much that had to make a new barrel... other time was extruder, had to turn down heat, empty machine, unmount completely, and clean off every last trace of carbonized plastic, I'm sure that if had let go a little bit more, would have trapped screw inside and I don't think even a 10 ton press could have got the screw out then! JM2c

Rj

hello, im new to this, i'm useless when it cams to electronics and wiring. i'm good with my hand, a good set of instructions i'm good to go. i like to build things. and i really like the Precious Plastic Injector idea. i love that they provide a list of electronics needed build one. however i feel the 35x45 mm band heaters are a little small for what i want to do. i want to build one with 2.5 inch band heaters. The blue print i downloaded for the Precious Plastic Injector did provide a electric schematics, but its not enough detail for me. can anybody help me out, with what electronics, band heaters, ect. i need. i think i cant find everything i need on Amazon.

The injector is the most basic setup for a heated tube, literally goes from mains, I take both lines to PID controllers 220v in, and then divide, one side direct to heaters, then the other side via the SSRs and then to the heaters, and finally the control wiring from PID controller to the signal side of the SSRs (tells SSR when to let electricity pass to heaters), and the thermo-couples ... just observe on PID controllers which is which

I use injector with smaller moulds, have a 32mmID tube, can hold up tp 250cm3 of plastic, but each time I make an injection in to a smaller mould, then I add the same amount of cold flake plastic to the hopper, the the tube is always full, and by the time this cold plastic reached the nozzle it is hot and ready... I have 5 heating bands, 3 controlled for barrel, 2 for nozzle - I actually have 1 larger bandheater on the standard 1 1/4" plumbing union I have at the end of the barrel, which allows me to change easily the nozzle parts, or completely remove to be able to push out all the plastic in the case I want to clean start..

If you want to do larger shot sizes, then you will always have to wait for the plastic to melt.. if you add more heating bands, you can wait less time... And I would recommend RobotDigg or Aliexpress, you will see much cheaper than Amazon

2

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Oh, some machine builders will sell you just the barrel and screw if that's all you need. One of the important factors of the extrusion machine is to not have a huge gap between the barrel and screw, I'm not sure how well that wood auger fits in there.

@TAdri RobotDigg sell decent screws and barrels (barrels are so-so, depends on worker who make it)

Doruk Yıldırım

Hello, I am running a sheet press workspace. I have been contacted by a customer on recycling fishing nets. He said that he is not sure about the type but it probably is nylon/PA. Does anyone have experience with fishing nets?

As well as Yanns comments, I make small 150x150x8mm sheets with a small hydraulic press, to make initial tests... obviously will save you a lot of bother later on if you find problems before loading up the full size sheet press!

Andymid

270ºC?¿ I hope that was a typo! At 270ºC you will carbonize just about any plastic that we process normally - you want to avoid carbonizing plastic inside the machine at all costs, as when this happens basically you will get black abrasive sand crystals, which don't melt, and when accumulate enough to trap the machinery, will be almost impossible to unmount and clean... happened to me early on twice before realising my temps were way off.. first time in injector had to take it to a 10 ton press to remove the plunger, inside of barrel was completely ruined, scratched so much that had to make a new barrel... other time was extruder, had to turn down heat, empty machine, unmount completely, and clean off every last trace of carbonized plastic, I'm sure that if had let go a little bit more, would have trapped screw inside and I don't think even a 10 ton press could have got the screw out then! JM2c

The max temps of most commonly used plastics are at 280°C - so at 270°C you melt all polymers (given the fact that you don't know whats inside the machine) and still prevent decomposing. You should not leave this temp for too long otherwise wired mixes of additives can lead to decomposistion

1

Development of our automatic bottle cap sorter (color).

2

1

hi, anyone have the blueprints for plastic shredder from this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0&list=PLtYgsstkMPuXdOmvoUYAc0oDoFlk_Ztsp&index=6 thanks in advance

One Army

Precious Plastic - Build the shredder (part 3.1)

fsiregar

hi, anyone have the blueprints for plastic shredder from this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFIPXgrk7u0&list=PLtYgsstkMPuXdOmvoUYAc0oDoFlk_Ztsp&index=6 thanks in advance

this is the latest version of this machine! https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33-

SHR - 3.3

Shredding is the first step of processing the precious plastic that you collected. It will break apart it into flakes and then they will be ready to be processed with the other machines to create new precious products

. The main diffference between the Shredder Basic and PRO it's their shredding capacity, the SHRPRO can shred up to 50 kg/h and ...

Carolina

this is the latest version of this machine! https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shr---33-

thank you so much

1

Hello,does someone knows about gearboxes? The gearbox of the extruder has 6 different times, I’m using the slowest one, but when I start to work runs well but after a couple of minutes it gets stuck. Could be the lvl of oil?

It is hard to tell like this. How does it stop ? The motor still try to run, or all is stopped (and you have a electric protection on your machine ? Do you also hear noises in your gearbox and it gets very hot ?

has anyone purchased this shredder (https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-mini-handcranked-shredder/) ? I'm curious as to whether it can be motorized and how well it handles things like 3D prints

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: Shredder Mini - Handcranke...

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I think most of us don't work in that sector so it's not as easily visible to us. In Indonesia, there seems to be the domestically produced machines and then there's the imported ones from China. The domestic machines are a mystery to me since the people who produce the machines aren't very clear and open about what they're making/selling...like they're either being protective or secretive with what they're doing which doesn't help since the machines might cost around usd $10,000 or so. The chinese machines you can find on alibaba. What's good? I have not a clue. If you're willing to make the investment, you need to do the research or find someone who can do the research for you.

Thanks and I agree- there is information scarcity about current status of technology in industry compared forums such as this. I try to learn from the best of both worlds though.

Ayydan

has anyone purchased this shredder (https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-mini-handcranked-shredder/) ? I'm curious as to whether it can be motorized and how well it handles things like 3D prints

I'm also curious about this one: https://actionbox.ca/products/shredii-4-0 It is designed without a sieve, but the blades are (I think) thinner than the precious plastic design.

SHREDII™ 4.0 | Mechanical Kit

NOW AVAILABLE. CHECK IT OUT ON YOUTUBE. WARNING: This product, whether powered or not, can cause severe bodily harm. It is the responsibility of the operator to use this product in a safe and responsible manner to avoid injury to themselves and others. By purchasing a SHREDII 4.0 Kit, you acknowledge that you have read

yeah, the shredii units seem pretty interesting as they've shown it working for injection molding

6:05 AM

unfortunately it is far out of my price range at this time

Ayydan

has anyone purchased this shredder (https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-mini-handcranked-shredder/) ? I'm curious as to whether it can be motorized and how well it handles things like 3D prints

Took a closer look at this shredder. I really like that it requires no welding, has a dual axis design, and can attach to anything with a metric socket. I wonder if it has a sieve? The description says it can be motorized, but their motorized shredder kit uses a single axis precious plastic v3.3 basic design.

ah I must have missed the mention of being able to motorize it. I do wonder how well it'd handle only having one axle driven. Does anyone know a good way to couple a 20mm shaft to a hex?

I'm guessing you'd have to make a custom coupler?

that's what it seems like

6:02 PM

I guess it's a good excuse to buy more tools

Ayydan

ah I must have missed the mention of being able to motorize it. I do wonder how well it'd handle only having one axle driven. Does anyone know a good way to couple a 20mm shaft to a hex?

I made these, last year.

2

7:14 PM

You need at least a milling machine with a rotary table. It is just a matter of making 44° teeth and 46° cavity, but it has to be done precisely centered to avoid bending the shaft.

7:16 PM

I made it on a CNC machine. If needed, I can give you blueprint and also the g-code for Mitsubishi/Fanuc machinery.

The blueprints would be great! Thanks

Hey everyone, I bought a stainless steel shredder to shred food waste, but I am a little bit confused about the motor to buy. I know it is recommended to get a motor around 3hp, but is this at the input or the output of the gearbox? I am having trouble finding a used motor locally so I want to make sure I am getting the right thing when ordering online.

AGuySomewhere

Hey everyone, I bought a stainless steel shredder to shred food waste, but I am a little bit confused about the motor to buy. I know it is recommended to get a motor around 3hp, but is this at the input or the output of the gearbox? I am having trouble finding a used motor locally so I want to make sure I am getting the right thing when ordering online.

are you able to run voltage of 220

8:22 PM

?

AGuySomewhere

Hey everyone, I bought a stainless steel shredder to shred food waste, but I am a little bit confused about the motor to buy. I know it is recommended to get a motor around 3hp, but is this at the input or the output of the gearbox? I am having trouble finding a used motor locally so I want to make sure I am getting the right thing when ordering online.

HP ratings area always for the motor. What you need to pay attention to is motor RPM rating and what RPM is your target speed for running the shredder. For example, if your motor is rated for 1400rpm and you want 40rpm, you need a 35:1 ratio gearbox. The math: Motor rating / target rpm = x x:1 ratio gearbox I hope this makes sense.

1

AGuySomewhere

Hey everyone, I bought a stainless steel shredder to shred food waste, but I am a little bit confused about the motor to buy. I know it is recommended to get a motor around 3hp, but is this at the input or the output of the gearbox? I am having trouble finding a used motor locally so I want to make sure I am getting the right thing when ordering online.

For food waste you don't need the power needed for plastic shredding. Probably you need something around 0.3~0.75 kw@30~70 rpm

2

1

I suppose it might matter what food is getting shredded. Might have a few issues if bones get tossed in

1

Ayydan

The blueprints would be great! Thanks

Hi, I'm sorry but I can't find them, probably I made just a sketch on paper to make the parts. However, as I wrote, it is simple, at least if you have a milling machine with a rotary table. Teeth sides are flat surfaces on lines passing from the center of the part. As I mentioned, I made the slots with 46° between the flanks, and so the teeths becomes 44°.

I made a simple sketch on paper now.

Thanks!

These can also be bought with gaps that allow for a rubber spacer inside. But make sure your alignment is good or else they wear out quick.

Like this.... Although I think I'd prefer the more direct connection

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Like this.... Although I think I'd prefer the more direct connection

Rubber joints has to be very bulky to whitstand big torque numbers. I never made precise calculations on the standard shredder, mine has a 1.1kw motor with 90:1 gearbox, so I have a peak torque of ~700Nm. For my application I had to use a 135mm diameter one, and up to 1950Nm a 160mm one is needed. Bigger motors means higher torque, obviously, so bigger and costly rubber joints. Mine isn't an elastic joint, it is a dog clutch, it can whitstand huge torque with precise alignment. This is why I made a rigid interface between the gearmotor and the shredder (a piece of pipe with two flanges, with centering diameters to install it with the right concentricity). It is a simple build for those who have a lathe, a dial indicator to keep the concentricity between the machined centering precise during machining and a welding machine. (edited)

Does anyone have more specific blueprints for the injection molder, like where to put the screws and stuff?

11:50 PM

I saw the ones that came in the academy, but they are not super specific

EllieCintron

Does anyone have more specific blueprints for the injection molder, like where to put the screws and stuff?

i would recommend you to replicate this one, its designed for disassembly and has more detailed documentation https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/inj---21- (edited)

INJ - 2.1

The Injection machine 2.1 is an iteration based on the Injection machine 1.0 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/injection) This latest version of the Injection machine (2.1) solves 2 main problems: Safety and transportability. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards) and designing it to be easily disas...

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Like this.... Although I think I'd prefer the more direct connection

These are HRC couplings, indeed requiere good alignment, but are made to support some misalignment (although not a lot, the "130" size for example can take 0.4mm max parallel and 0.8mm max axial misalignment) (edited)

1

11:03 PM

As always, try for perfect and accept good, and these should work

11:03 PM

So, anybody here can help with Shredder Pro electronics..?

11:07 PM

I have just finished mounting the V4 dual axle, with the arduino and current sensor incorporated.... a strange thing is happening, in that the sensor value (which as far as I understand should stabilize the raw value around the middle of its range with no current flowing), keeps dropping until it reaches 0.. also, when switching on the motor (w/o the shredder box attached yet!), the value jumps to max and reads a jam, so it goes into reverse, and at this point the arduino will also crash and stop responding.. sometimes just after the motor has gone into reverse, and thereafter does not respond! Only can press emergency stop to be able to stop, and then have to remove all power to reset the arduino

11:09 PM

I have a Fritzing of exactly how I have set the arduino components up, and the bridge rectifier.. it took a while to work out from the schematics in the kit with people who know more than I do, and I suspect something is not quite right there... the dropping value smells to me like maybe a capacitor is not in the right place

1

11:10 PM

although no idea why the arduino is crashing

here shows the strange issue... I also noticed that v0A at default (538, showing "out of 700") immediately gave a jam, but when putting higher number there, so 1023 could be reached (after which it would ALSO then fall to 0 slowly), it no longer gave a jam (for fun put 6600 in v0A config in this example), and would keep working until I switched to 0, then the serial monitor of arduino would crash, and when switching to 2, the screen and arduino would also crash and no longer respond

Andymid

I have a Fritzing of exactly how I have set the arduino components up, and the bridge rectifier.. it took a while to work out from the schematics in the kit with people who know more than I do, and I suspect something is not quite right there... the dropping value smells to me like maybe a capacitor is not in the right place

FWIW

Shredder_V4.fzz

19.69 KB

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

For food waste you don't need the power needed for plastic shredding. Probably you need something around 0.3~0.75 kw@30~70 rpm

Hey There Davide and @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Ben, I am currently running the version 3? Shredder which is the original box. I have A 4kw 3ph motor and 30:1 gearbox run by a variable frequency drive off 220volt. I have been trying to get the right torque compensation settings so that I can get the biggest bang for buck out if the shredder. Setting 13 Currently set at 3.5 (max is 4.0) and frequency setting 14 at about 12-17hz. I can run the machine at 6hz usually until the PET bottles jam the machine, then I have to reduce the frequency using the knob to get it unjammed. CAn Anybody help me with these settings?!?! So that it just ploughs through the bottles? Am I doing something wrong or is the design flawed?

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hey There Davide and @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Ben, I am currently running the version 3? Shredder which is the original box. I have A 4kw 3ph motor and 30:1 gearbox run by a variable frequency drive off 220volt. I have been trying to get the right torque compensation settings so that I can get the biggest bang for buck out if the shredder. Setting 13 Currently set at 3.5 (max is 4.0) and frequency setting 14 at about 12-17hz. I can run the machine at 6hz usually until the PET bottles jam the machine, then I have to reduce the frequency using the knob to get it unjammed. CAn Anybody help me with these settings?!?! So that it just ploughs through the bottles? Am I doing something wrong or is the design flawed?

Unfortunately I'm not too familiar with VFD controllers and their settings, I'll try and read up on them. I assume v3 shredder (not shredder pro) I have seen a 1500w motor break a gearbox output shaft and also a hexbar. 50:1 ratio has a very large amount of torque. Make sure your blades are sharp, I'm not sure what other things you can do without a risk of damaging the machine. Just be super careful about machine jams!

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hey There Davide and @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug Ben, I am currently running the version 3? Shredder which is the original box. I have A 4kw 3ph motor and 30:1 gearbox run by a variable frequency drive off 220volt. I have been trying to get the right torque compensation settings so that I can get the biggest bang for buck out if the shredder. Setting 13 Currently set at 3.5 (max is 4.0) and frequency setting 14 at about 12-17hz. I can run the machine at 6hz usually until the PET bottles jam the machine, then I have to reduce the frequency using the knob to get it unjammed. CAn Anybody help me with these settings?!?! So that it just ploughs through the bottles? Am I doing something wrong or is the design flawed?

First of all, have you connected the motor in the right way? Usually 400V three phase induction motors have to be connected in "delta" when connected to 230V, and they come connected in "star". When you use a 230V single phase VFD you have 230V at the output, so you need to move the bridges in the electrical box of the motor to achieve the right connection. Running a motor connected in star with low voltage result in a lack of power.

6:40 PM

1

If this isn't the issue, don't mess with the VFD parameters. Search on the manual how to reset them, and start with the basics. Usually (different make has different settings) you have to insert the motor data, voltage, nominal speed, current or CosPhi, etc. Then I used to run the "auto tuning" (with motor connected) to allow the VFD to do its measurements. After that you can try to run the motor. There are also various settings regarding the torque boost (the VFD can give more current than nominal to the motor, for a determinate amount of time), I prefeer to set it to zero to keep safe the mechanical parts, on machinery driven with worm gearboxes, since the amount of extra torque can damage severely them.

6:52 PM

Avoid to run a motor, if it doesn't have a separate cooling fan, at frequencies lower than 40Hz. I think your motor is a 4 pole (a 2 pole is too fast for the job with a 30:1 worm gear). I also use a 30:1 worm gearbox, but I added a 3:1 gear reduction between the motor and the worm gearbox, to achieve a 90:1 total reduction and a ~15.5rpm speed at 50Hz.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I made these, last year.

chain flex coupler.

Butte (PP Philippines)

chain flex coupler.

For 1000Nm they are more than double the diameter of mine...

There's s some differences between four solid quench tempered steel teeth and a chain.

at 20usd for the chain coupler... they are way cheaper and less hassle to set up.

Butte (PP Philippines)

at 20usd for the chain coupler... they are way cheaper and less hassle to set up.

20USD probably there, here in Europe I can't find nothing at less than 100€, to be machined to the shafts. Costs vary depending on the location!

I am pretty sure the wiring is okay. Delta. The VFD is very basic. It does not have a setting for current or RPM. Just frequency. It does not have any "auto tune". It will definitely need forced cooling. It was getting hot. Attached are basic parameters.

Add a pre-stage reduction if you need low rpm. Using a motor at those frequencies is pointless.

Hey folks! Got a question about the extrusion screw. I've used RobotDigg as a source for the screw in the past, and they have two versions, part numbers PP-ES600L and PP-ES588L-D257. The difference is the diameter and length of the screw (diameter 24.6mm, length 600mm and diameter 25.7mm, length 58.8mm). Here is the link for the two screws, as well as the barrel (which has only one version that fits both screws): https://m.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine# Can someone tell me more about these two options? Why choose one over the other?

Precious Plastic design single screw and barrel for extrusion machi...

Plastic recycling extrusion or injection Precious Plastic advocates for plastic recycling. Precious Plastic created machines that enable anyone to recycle plastic, open-source, and create a video for ...

adamj537

Hey folks! Got a question about the extrusion screw. I've used RobotDigg as a source for the screw in the past, and they have two versions, part numbers PP-ES600L and PP-ES588L-D257. The difference is the diameter and length of the screw (diameter 24.6mm, length 600mm and diameter 25.7mm, length 58.8mm). Here is the link for the two screws, as well as the barrel (which has only one version that fits both screws): https://m.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine# Can someone tell me more about these two options? Why choose one over the other?

I have some observations but no answer on which is better. Looks like the smaller version has a deeper feed zone and fewer turns/threads. The larger version has more turns and more shallow fill zone. What's this mean? More turns means more moving torque or force for pushing out the plastic at the expense of speed. A more shallow feed zone means you might need to shred your plastic a little smaller. Which is better? Well, they are similar enough that you likely won't experience much difference in performance.

3:23 PM

@Butte (PP Philippines) might have more insight

Has anyone converted the blueprints to imperial (inches) for use? For the injection molder

10:48 PM

It is a bit difficult to convert everything

EllieCintron

Has anyone converted the blueprints to imperial (inches) for use? For the injection molder

mm to inch is 25.4 mm to one inch. most CAD software will toggle between metric and inch readouts in the layouts.

Why does the academy still show the old sheet press, I think the newer version was presented like a year ago?

1:33 AM

I guess one of these both shows the latest version? Is there a difference apart from the size, is one of them a newer version than the other one? https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/spr---23 https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/15m-sheetpress-system---designed-for-disassembly

SPR - 2.3

The Sheetpress presses plastic into recycled sheets. This machine can make multiple sheets per day, recycling up to 50kg of plastic per sheet. This model of the Sheet Press System (2.3) solves 3 main problems: Safety, transportability and standard sheets dimensions. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards), designing it...

1.5m Sheetpress System - Designed for Disassembly

Complete set of blueprints, CAD files and instructions on how to build this upscaled sheetpress system. -56% larger pressing surface -Designed for easy disassembly -Improved electronics

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

Why does the academy still show the old sheet press, I think the newer version was presented like a year ago?

why ? I suppose nobody had the time to update those pages ...

PreciousPlastic related content is being migrated, updated and maintained in the new OSR-Plastic library system : https://kb.osr-plastic.org/academy/build/sheetpress/ | updates/recommendations about the sheetpress are being added this week. However, for now I'd stick with the 1.0m version, since anything beyond bends and has heating issues as well. Otherwise the FictionFactory version got some tweaks concerning structural integrity but it's missing the source files. Here are all known designs : http://files.osr-plastic.org/files/machines/sheetpress/.

Thanks, nice to see that OSR is still doing a great job when it comes to structuring the contents!

I haven't heard about these bending/heating issues before, is there a source with more details? Is bending an issue because of the cooling inside the press or do you mean that the plastic bends afterwards due to its own weight?

We decided to let in the academy the model that have been documented in video, so the V4 version, which is still a good model for a heavy DIY project. Then we released 2 new versions as how-to, a first one for 1.2x1.2 sheets, disassemble so machine builder can ship easier. And we made few iterations of this sheet-press leading to the 2.3, also in the how-to, which is the latest version. There is no particular heating nor bending problems with these version (at least on the one I installed). Bigger sheets means bigger wrapping, but it is proportionally similar to the smaller ones, just store them flat with some extra weight on top.

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

Thanks, nice to see that OSR is still doing a great job when it comes to structuring the contents!

I haven't heard about these bending/heating issues before, is there a source with more details? Is bending an issue because of the cooling inside the press or do you mean that the plastic bends afterwards due to its own weight?

There's a wide range of source contributing to warped or inconsistent sheets:

inconsistent heating across the plate. this isn't easy or cheap to solve
the process, eg: wrong melting times
plastic source, contamination, flake size
rib structure of the sheetpress (1m as said is a safe ballpark)
bend heat plates, over time These are the workarounds, fixes I know of :

clamps will help overcoming problems at the outer edges
smaller grid size for the heaters
precision machined heater blocks
stronger rib structure
set level screws ( one every 30cm)
adding vibrators - as suggested by Julian
longer melting, to over come plastic insulation property problem, as suggested by Julian

And there's more

At the end, it's a matter of meeting quality expectations though but considering the high invest, I think it's relatively easy to address. Updated docs should be there over the weekend.

Great information, thank you both for the valuable feedback!

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

Great information, thank you both for the valuable feedback!

You're welcome, and thanks for the flowers btw. Here just for reference, that's the 1.20m version, bending on it's own weight, using already a stronger rib structure as the 1.5m. You can see that when lifting it at the center. Btw. the rib structure parts bend over time as well. The only way to address that problem is to split the press-plate into 4 height adjustable cells. These are also more easy to handle & manufacture. (edited)

Andymid

here shows the strange issue... I also noticed that v0A at default (538, showing "out of 700") immediately gave a jam, but when putting higher number there, so 1023 could be reached (after which it would ALSO then fall to 0 slowly), it no longer gave a jam (for fun put 6600 in v0A config in this example), and would keep working until I switched to 0, then the serial monitor of arduino would crash, and when switching to 2, the screen and arduino would also crash and no longer respond

@Yann can you help me out on this..? I've localized the issue of crashing is the wires going to the display, apparently i2c connections are very susceptible to EMI noise (wires plugged in w/o display, still crashes, wires completely removed, no crashes) The issue of the current sensor being over sensitive and also going to 0, no idea still what is happening

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Add a pre-stage reduction if you need low rpm. Using a motor at those frequencies is pointless.

I set the compensation value to 1 and compensation frequency to 80hz and running at full speed 50hz 1400rpm. Works a treat now.

1

Geoff (PBI NTB)

I set the compensation value to 1 and compensation frequency to 80hz and running at full speed 50hz 1400rpm. Works a treat now.

Ok, so you didn't need to run it at low frequencies! That's ok!

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Ok, so you didn't need to run it at low frequencies! That's ok!

For some reason I thought I did. But not necessary. (edited)

1

anyone else here built the V4 shredder?

3:05 PM

with the Arduino set up..?

Andymid

anyone else here built the V4 shredder?

Hi Andy, Unfortunately we don't have our Arduino experts in house, and if I built a couple of shredders, I am not competent on the Arduino side of it. Now we are using this system mainly, with a thermal relay and a timer to auto-reverse. This is a purely electrical system and avoid the electronic and programming Arduino induces. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shrpro---20

SHRPRO - 2.0

The Shredder Pro - 2.0 is an iteration based on the Shredder Pro - 1.0 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredderpro) With this machine you can shred your plastic into flakes (50kg/h), ready to melt them into precious products

This version of the Shredder PRO (2.0) solves one main problem: Safety. How? By following the CE ...

Yann

Hi Andy, Unfortunately we don't have our Arduino experts in house, and if I built a couple of shredders, I am not competent on the Arduino side of it. Now we are using this system mainly, with a thermal relay and a timer to auto-reverse. This is a purely electrical system and avoid the electronic and programming Arduino induces. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shrpro---20

Hmm, revising... I can understand that making purely electrical system with no electronics will make things easier, but I have this one already set up and ready to run as per the first version, so would really appreciate if someone who has set the first version could lend a hand

3:23 PM

I don't entirely understand the schematic drawing of the new version, the old version schematic also was a little complicated, but this is the one that I have now here... I will certainly look into the newer way of doing it, but I do work with arduino and like the first way, but something is just not quite right for me. (edited)

3:23 PM

so need somebody who has managed to set up that version to help!

Yann

Hi Andy, Unfortunately we don't have our Arduino experts in house, and if I built a couple of shredders, I am not competent on the Arduino side of it. Now we are using this system mainly, with a thermal relay and a timer to auto-reverse. This is a purely electrical system and avoid the electronic and programming Arduino induces. https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/shrpro---20

Who are the Arduino experts whom I may address..? I am 100% sure this is fixable as is, just can't find the issue myself... I'm sure someone with more experience than me will be able to identify the issue

What would be the most essential machine for a workspace? (Excluding the shredder)

Andymid

Who are the Arduino experts whom I may address..? I am 100% sure this is fixable as is, just can't find the issue myself... I'm sure someone with more experience than me will be able to identify the issue

These here are a lot safer, https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B07SQ69PF5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 | no spikes or such. I suppose you adjusted the thresholds too (https://github.com/davehakkens/shredder-reverse/blob/master/Arduino%20Code/shredderControl.ino#L62), using an 'air-coupler' I'd toss it in the bin. A 5$ circuitry on a 5k device, piping a 3-4kw load doesn't sound good to me

There are btw. no Arduino experts, there are C developers with electronic skills, or vice versa. Either way, it's 15 years + to become an expert

(edited)

MIfoodie

What would be the most essential machine for a workspace? (Excluding the shredder)

Well, it depends on what you want to produce. If you know what you want to make, the answer becomes clear.

Looking for 1,5kW to 2,5kW shredder motor (60-70RPM). Please DM your offers with photos! I am from Croatia, so for TAX reasons only EU please. Thanks ❤️ (edited)

Also, what are your recommendations on Shredder V2 motor power/RPM? I have 1,5KW 70 RPM and 2,2KW 70RPM options. Planning to shred bottle caps mostly (5kg/day).

MIfoodie

What would be the most essential machine for a workspace? (Excluding the shredder)

After a shredder, I think you can go a pretty long ways with repurposed generic equipment that can be used to heat the shredded plastic and then cool it under pressure into a solid shape. For example, toaster ovens, paninini presses, for heating; clamps and shop presses for pressure. A cheap t-shirt press made for heat transfer works remarkably well for both heat (only on one side) and pressure. Garage sales and thrift stores have been a good source of some of these things for me ($5 to $10). The t-shirt press is some generic Chinese model I bought from Amazon for under $200.

Hello! I have a question. Where can I find the sieve assembly blueprints for the shredder pro - 2.0? Or is there a new version of this shredder?

Should I get a extruder or injector because they both seem to do kinda the same thing….

MIfoodie

Should I get a extruder or injector because they both seem to do kinda the same thing….

Completely different things, check on One Army YouTube / Website.

6:28 PM

Extruder is used for beams / bigger moulds. Injector is used for smaller and more precise things.

Alright thanks

1

Hey, any idea why our V4 extruder quite oftenly doesn't grab/convey the material (flakes)? The hdpe flakes are all around 5 mm. We were producing big beams. Could it be that the tube is worn off, thus lacking power to push the material into the mould?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-3-HP-Electric-Motor-Single-Phase-AC-Motor-3450-RPM-60-Hz-56-Frame-SPL-Rot-CCW-Air-Compressor-Motor-115-230-Volt-DJCM0325600000001V6/321126563 would this work for a shredder?

VEVOR 3 HP Electric Motor Single Phase AC Motor 3450 RPM 60 Hz 56 F...

The VEVOR AC electric motor is an electrical machine that converts AC electrical power energy into mechanical energy. The 2.2 KW Electric Motor for air compressor. A 115/230-Volt electric motor that turns

Also looking on the bazar, what’s the difference between v2.2 and v 3.3 of the shredder?

Florian_All_We_Shape

Hey, any idea why our V4 extruder quite oftenly doesn't grab/convey the material (flakes)? The hdpe flakes are all around 5 mm. We were producing big beams. Could it be that the tube is worn off, thus lacking power to push the material into the mould?

It's difficult to say, but it could be a few things. If you never had struggled with your 5mm flakes before but now you are having an issue, it could be that things are worn out. If tolerances inside the extrusion barrel become wider, there's less pushing force. This isn't something I've experienced (yet). Look at your temperatures. Is it reading higher than normal when you are having this problem? If so, there might be an obstruction. If this has always been a problem, then I would look at the build of the machine. Is the screw to proper specifications? Barrel? I've seen machines that seem to interpret machine build designs as suggestions instead of instructions and this often leads to quality issues. Is the feed zone on the extrusion screw proper? Anyways, there's a few things to think about.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

It's difficult to say, but it could be a few things. If you never had struggled with your 5mm flakes before but now you are having an issue, it could be that things are worn out. If tolerances inside the extrusion barrel become wider, there's less pushing force. This isn't something I've experienced (yet). Look at your temperatures. Is it reading higher than normal when you are having this problem? If so, there might be an obstruction. If this has always been a problem, then I would look at the build of the machine. Is the screw to proper specifications? Barrel? I've seen machines that seem to interpret machine build designs as suggestions instead of instructions and this often leads to quality issues. Is the feed zone on the extrusion screw proper? Anyways, there's a few things to think about.

That's a can of flies, not trying to open the box of Pandora but there are no instructions, just guessings - many of them performed under ideal conditions and/or for very specific use cases. However, experts told me 4x2cm barrel opening is appropriate, and that sounds about right, flex wise & after watching test runs, with no barrel mounts - 0.1mm off and you may/will have some wear/run-out down the pipe ... As last resort, you can recycle your v3 wood auger extruder, into a feed screw, using a Nema23 or so. Let us know how goes - wear out shouldn't be a big problem, for beams at least - in theory there is no 'back flow' but I have seen serious damages in the barrel a few times.

1

There's a proper barrel on Robodigg, I managed to customize/machine (tampered) one but that requires a good lathe. To my collection, only GB manufacturer uses a better barrel - nitrated - not an expert in metallurgy but that could save a bit of the up to 9k invest for this machine. It's near full day charged to make one. https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project (edited)

30mm diameter extrusion screw for Precious Plastic project - RobotDigg

Screw and Barrel for Plastic Recycling RobotDigg are glad to work with worldwide Plastic Recycling projects which can he...

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

It's difficult to say, but it could be a few things. If you never had struggled with your 5mm flakes before but now you are having an issue, it could be that things are worn out. If tolerances inside the extrusion barrel become wider, there's less pushing force. This isn't something I've experienced (yet). Look at your temperatures. Is it reading higher than normal when you are having this problem? If so, there might be an obstruction. If this has always been a problem, then I would look at the build of the machine. Is the screw to proper specifications? Barrel? I've seen machines that seem to interpret machine build designs as suggestions instead of instructions and this often leads to quality issues. Is the feed zone on the extrusion screw proper? Anyways, there's a few things to think about.

Thanks Ben, I was sure the answer wouldn't be easy. Actually, flakes which were a little bigger seemed to work better in the past. When we put a lot of the material in the hopper with the 5 mm flakes, it sometimes seemed to stop taking them in. On the other hand did we watch the bare screw just not grapping any flakes like the tube was full and nothing progressing. BTW I meant V4 Pro Extruder. (edited)

Florian_All_We_Shape

Thanks Ben, I was sure the answer wouldn't be easy. Actually, flakes which were a little bigger seemed to work better in the past. When we put a lot of the material in the hopper with the 5 mm flakes, it sometimes seemed to stop taking them in. On the other hand did we watch the bare screw just not grapping any flakes like the tube was full and nothing progressing. BTW I meant V4 Pro Extruder. (edited)

Ah! I had an issue yesterday. My worker started running the machine but the nozzle was clogged with cold plastic because the machine wasn't heated up long enough before using. All the sensors were showing higher temperatures than normal and melted plastic was coming out of the fill part of the hopper. (edited)

lovebird

That's a can of flies, not trying to open the box of Pandora but there are no instructions, just guessings - many of them performed under ideal conditions and/or for very specific use cases. However, experts told me 4x2cm barrel opening is appropriate, and that sounds about right, flex wise & after watching test runs, with no barrel mounts - 0.1mm off and you may/will have some wear/run-out down the pipe ... As last resort, you can recycle your v3 wood auger extruder, into a feed screw, using a Nema23 or so. Let us know how goes - wear out shouldn't be a big problem, for beams at least - in theory there is no 'back flow' but I have seen serious damages in the barrel a few times.

It used to work extremely good. We even managed to massively deform a bigger closed mould with 3 mm wall thickness. Good point to watch out not to bend the tube/screw with massive moulds

Didn't get the point with the stepper. As a screw for conveying the material into the hopper? We also used a wooden block inside the mould to get a better surface/for counterpressure. The block was connected to a chain, thus being able to pull the block In case it'd get stuck. Once when I lightly pulled the chain, it became loose and the material started flowing again. I mean, the machine should have easily pushed on the block as it did before. That's why I thought it might lost some of it's power. (edited)

lovebird

There's a proper barrel on Robodigg, I managed to customize/machine (tampered) one but that requires a good lathe. To my collection, only GB manufacturer uses a better barrel - nitrated - not an expert in metallurgy but that could save a bit of the up to 9k invest for this machine. It's near full day charged to make one. https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1753/30mm-diameter-extrusion-screw-for-Precious-Plastic-project (edited)

Thanks, I would look for this in case I need one.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Ah! I had an issue yesterday. My worker started running the machine but the nozzle was clogged with cold plastic because the machine wasn't heated up long enough before using. All the sensors were showing higher temperatures than normal and melted plastic was coming out of the fill part of the hopper. (edited)

It was not too cold this time, but I know that issue when the whole thing gets stuck

Instead we didn't have the problem that the temperature was dropping, because taking in a lot of cold material. The build should be alright, because we've been using the machine for like two years - not constantly, only now and then to produce like max. 30 beams in total.

Florian_All_We_Shape

It was not too cold this time, but I know that issue when the whole thing gets stuck

Instead we didn't have the problem that the temperature was dropping, because taking in a lot of cold material. The build should be alright, because we've been using the machine for like two years - not constantly, only now and then to produce like max. 30 beams in total.

ah if that's the case the machine should be ok still. If you are up to it, you can try pulling the barrel off and inspect the barrel and screw. It's a bit of work and you might not figure anything out, but you will be able to get a much closer look at the feed section of the barrel and get some really good measurements

1

Alright, thanks, I'll check that out first. Did that before already when I had another issue.

Hey Friends - I am struggling with my extruder pro machine and need your help. The screw broke off from near the gear box while extrusion was on due to some contamination in the barrel. Now the screw is jammed inside the barrel. Have tried few things like putting oil, heating the machine till 300 degree celcius, using some force, etc. The screw is still jammed. Can someone please suggest what more can I try to release the screw from within the barrel.

1

Priyank Mishra

Hey Friends - I am struggling with my extruder pro machine and need your help. The screw broke off from near the gear box while extrusion was on due to some contamination in the barrel. Now the screw is jammed inside the barrel. Have tried few things like putting oil, heating the machine till 300 degree celcius, using some force, etc. The screw is still jammed. Can someone please suggest what more can I try to release the screw from within the barrel.

Some updates. I raised the temp to around 350 degree. Two things happenned- melted plastic started coming out from the nozzle and also, the screw moved a bit. What maximum temp can I run my extrusion machine upto?

Priyank Mishra

Some updates. I raised the temp to around 350 degree. Two things happenned- melted plastic started coming out from the nozzle and also, the screw moved a bit. What maximum temp can I run my extrusion machine upto?

Ouch! That sucks!!!!! 1. Stay calm. You will be okay. You will survive this. 2. Heat up the barrel. Do not go crazy and wildly overheat. What plastic was put in? If it's PP or HDPE, then heat up to around 200-210 and let it heat up for about 15 minutes or until temperature stabilizes. 3. While it is hotTry using a vice grip on the barrel and try to unscrew it from the barrel. ----If this doesn't work, While it is hot try using two prybars and try and pry it out. ----If this doesn't work, While it is hot you can try using a puller tool if the barrel has a sturdy lip to grab on. ----If this doesn't work, While it is hot try using a punch and sledge hammer and try pounding it out. Just be careful, try to keep it centered and try not to damage your barrel. ----If this doesn't work, well... come back here and tell us (edited)

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8:22 AM

I managed to drop in a piece of metal that was thick and curved so it traveled to about the middle of the barrel. The machine kept jamming, luckily nothing broke. I had no reverse with my motor so i had to turn the power off and try and rotate the motor in reverse by hand so i would at least have good gear ratio (turning the screw by hand would surely not have nearly as much torque). I went as far as I could, but then it stopped again. I heated things up hot, disconnected all my heaters, removed the barrel and screw, and was about to pound it out. I wish you all much luck in this quest. (edited)

1

What's the power/rpm/Nm of your shredders? Does anyone has 1HP shredder? If yes, please provide video! Thanks ❤️

Mine is... 2hp/1.5kw@ 140rpm Doesnt specify Nm

1

2:27 PM

I think it's supposed to run at 70rpm but whoever built this machine got the gear ratio wrong..... But it works and hasn't broken down. If original design is 1.5kw/2hp @ 70rpm, I think it's safe to say that with 1hp you should reduce rpm to 35rpm to achieve a similar torque. When I say reduce rpm I mean by using a reduction gear, not reducing the speed of the motor itself.

Thanks a lot Ben. In Croatia we are very limited with motors and all I can buy for my shredder motor that is affordable is SEW SA57-DT80K4. It is 0,75KW 3phase variable speed (9rpm to 260rpm) and can run both directions. (edited)

2:33 PM

2:34 PM

€300

2:35 PM

(and my shredder is laser cutted from v2 blueprints)

marjanzitnik

Thanks a lot Ben. In Croatia we are very limited with motors and all I can buy for my shredder motor that is affordable is SEW SA57-DT80K4. It is 0,75KW 3phase variable speed (9rpm to 260rpm) and can run both directions. (edited)

Ah so here is my limitation on knowledge... If you have a controller and can reduce rpm, I don't know how that affects the torque. I imagine at low rpm it would have to draw higher amperage to maintain torque values but again... This is beyond what I know. The motor I use is single phase and I have wired it to be reversible.

Will let you know about the results next week. Hope it will work!

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

ah if that's the case the machine should be ok still. If you are up to it, you can try pulling the barrel off and inspect the barrel and screw. It's a bit of work and you might not figure anything out, but you will be able to get a much closer look at the feed section of the barrel and get some really good measurements

Nothing blocking the barrel and looks alright - can't measure inside the barrel because of the nozzle thread. The flake size might be the problem that it stops extruding. 5 mm (sometimes less) seems to be too small. Any experience concerning the flake size with the Pro V4 extruder anybody? (edited)

Florian_All_We_Shape

Nothing blocking the barrel and looks alright - can't measure inside the barrel because of the nozzle thread. The flake size might be the problem that it stops extruding. 5 mm (sometimes less) seems to be too small. Any experience concerning the flake size with the Pro V4 extruder anybody? (edited)

5mm flakes should work fine. I've had issues in the past because I didn't use a filter on my shredder. A few large pieces would stop the plastic from feeding in. But still, I find myself having to help push the plastic down the hopper so it feeds in without issue. If using pellets, there's no issue.

marjanzitnik

Thanks a lot Ben. In Croatia we are very limited with motors and all I can buy for my shredder motor that is affordable is SEW SA57-DT80K4. It is 0,75KW 3phase variable speed (9rpm to 260rpm) and can run both directions. (edited)

Seems too little in my opinion for a laser cutted one. For comparison, mine is made with very sharp blades made on CNC, so it has less energy consumption, and with a 1.5kw motor it jams if I overload it. With a high ratio gearbox you also lose a lot of power due to the low efficiency of high ratio worm screw.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Seems too little in my opinion for a laser cutted one. For comparison, mine is made with very sharp blades made on CNC, so it has less energy consumption, and with a 1.5kw motor it jams if I overload it. With a high ratio gearbox you also lose a lot of power due to the low efficiency of high ratio worm screw.

Do you have a photo of your shredder (blades)?

marjanzitnik

Do you have a photo of your shredder (blades)?

I send you a PM

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I managed to drop in a piece of metal that was thick and curved so it traveled to about the middle of the barrel. The machine kept jamming, luckily nothing broke. I had no reverse with my motor so i had to turn the power off and try and rotate the motor in reverse by hand so i would at least have good gear ratio (turning the screw by hand would surely not have nearly as much torque). I went as far as I could, but then it stopped again. I heated things up hot, disconnected all my heaters, removed the barrel and screw, and was about to pound it out. I wish you all much luck in this quest. (edited)

Thanks Ben for your calming inputs. While I saw your post only today due to weekend, I am glad I tried many of these things you mentioned and managed to pull out the screw. What worked was heating the barrel for some time so that plastic could melt. Reading your suggestions made me feel that I am not alone, it could happen to anyone using an extrusion machine:-). I also suspect that flake size was higher for the extrusion. One of those flakes, which slip out during shredding might have done the damage. Things look sorted now, going to assemble the machine. Thanks again for your structured inputs.

Priyank Mishra

Thanks Ben for your calming inputs. While I saw your post only today due to weekend, I am glad I tried many of these things you mentioned and managed to pull out the screw. What worked was heating the barrel for some time so that plastic could melt. Reading your suggestions made me feel that I am not alone, it could happen to anyone using an extrusion machine:-). I also suspect that flake size was higher for the extrusion. One of those flakes, which slip out during shredding might have done the damage. Things look sorted now, going to assemble the machine. Thanks again for your structured inputs.

It's easy to get frustrated when things dont go right. I've had many failures and sometimes just a small win is enough to find the motivation to get things going again. Anyways, i suggest you run a magnet through all the material you put through your extrusion machine. Get a nice powerful magnet and you'll find all sorts of metal bits mixed in. Perhaps some metal shavings wont hurt anything, but when you get larger pieces things can jam and break. Unfortunately not all contamination is magnetic so you'll still need to keep an eye out with what you're putting in the machine.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

It's easy to get frustrated when things dont go right. I've had many failures and sometimes just a small win is enough to find the motivation to get things going again. Anyways, i suggest you run a magnet through all the material you put through your extrusion machine. Get a nice powerful magnet and you'll find all sorts of metal bits mixed in. Perhaps some metal shavings wont hurt anything, but when you get larger pieces things can jam and break. Unfortunately not all contamination is magnetic so you'll still need to keep an eye out with what you're putting in the machine.

Thanks Ben. further investigation led us to a small metal piece of metal getting stuck in the screw. Things are sorted now but obviously we are working on how to avoid such an incident happening again. While magnet is a good idea, do you think trying a hand held metal detector can be of help before we put the plastic into the hopper?

Priyank Mishra

Thanks Ben. further investigation led us to a small metal piece of metal getting stuck in the screw. Things are sorted now but obviously we are working on how to avoid such an incident happening again. While magnet is a good idea, do you think trying a hand held metal detector can be of help before we put the plastic into the hopper?

That might be helpful for metals other than iron. But in the end, you'll still need to separate the metal from the plastic. Get a strong magnet and run it through. Over time you will get the feel for things.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

That might be helpful for metals other than iron. But in the end, you'll still need to separate the metal from the plastic. Get a strong magnet and run it through. Over time you will get the feel for things.

Thanks Buddy. Will get going on that.

MIfoodie

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-3-HP-Electric-Motor-Single-Phase-AC-Motor-3450-RPM-60-Hz-56-Frame-SPL-Rot-CCW-Air-Compressor-Motor-115-230-Volt-DJCM0325600000001V6/321126563 would this work for a shredder?

NO/ it is high RPM it is made for a centrifugal blower.

4:58 AM

https://youtu.be/UDOxV2avryI revisiting this project again. Making polyester fiber with the extrusion machine. Previously I made a spray nozzle and used hot air from a air compressor. problem was that the hot air heaters were very delicate and if there was any interruption in air flow they would burn out immediately.

Precious Plastic Philippines

making Polyester fiber with a precious plastic extrusion machine

4:58 AM

trying a totally different design, no more air compressor, no more hot air.

Woah so you got it to work!?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Woah so you got it to work!?

this was the unit from 3 years ago

gonna run this stuff with the magic attachment on the extrusion machine as soon as the last couple boards are finished for this order

1

9:24 AM

it is commercial sourced shred PET mountaindew bottles, hot washed thru a wash plant.

9:24 AM

the price was very nice. if can turn it into fiber... local ready market

For a split second I thought it was glowing

Butte (PP Philippines)

NO/ it is high RPM it is made for a centrifugal blower.

Could you show how you managed to get or make these?

the motor?

3:43 AM

1750-1800 rpm is normal induction motor speed, the 3000+ rpm motors are for fans.

Hello, I'm a Mechanical Engineering student, I'm trying to research and focus on designing a plastic shredder machine to improve its efficiency, so I'm wondering if there's anyone here that I can communicate with to learn more about the machine

@lovebird thanks a lot, I will take my time reading and checking these materials

hello

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Hallo! Why is the number of cutting teeth on one shaft lower than on the other? How is the geometry of the cutting teeth created? Why is the tooth shape / geometry the way it is? Are there any scientific justifications for this? Thank you PS: It's about the shredder Pro.

I don’t know all the exact scientific answers, most of the design have been done by looking at the existing shredders

The difference of teeth numbers, as well as rotating speed between the 2 axis is to have a constantly changing cutting pattern while shredding, so you don’t have a “stripe effect”. The teeth geometry is pretty much a copy of existing shredders, then when we tested we saw it worked, so we kept it. There might be some scientific calculation and optimisation, if you find a way share it !

with regard to a shredder tooth-profile - you want a "dull" or blunted tooth not a razor sharp tooth. If you make the tooth come to a point it'll get chipped/rounded over quickly and become duller than if you intentionally leave a small flat tip in the design

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

It depends on the base material, hardening treatment and play between the blades. I made mine from a solid bar of quench hardened 39NiCrMo3 (EN 10083-3), nitrided to 0.3mm depth to ~60HRC, and I made it with blades with 0.03mm between eachother. With that hardness on cemented+tempered 18NiCrMo5 we made sheet metal punch, and they last a lot. 38NiCrMo3 has even higher base hardness, and nitriding leaves a very hard and anti-friction layer.

1

Okay Thank you

does anyone know of a source that describes how such a shredder is designed, laid out and optimized?

https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/f2d4/2d707b2529f08529d5970333eb0a4afef0cb.pdf

4:39 PM

https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/calculations-required-for-shredder/index.html

Calculations Required for Shredder - Dave Hakkens

Wanted to start this thread talking about the required calculations for the shredder. Horsepower: The calculation for torque is from the shear stress required to cut a specific material. The Read more...

4:39 PM

lots of results out there: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=material+reduction+shredder+power+calculations

rickpi

Hallo! Why is the number of cutting teeth on one shaft lower than on the other? How is the geometry of the cutting teeth created? Why is the tooth shape / geometry the way it is? Are there any scientific justifications for this? Thank you PS: It's about the shredder Pro.

You can find scientific answers to all the single problems (cutting geometry, temperature build up, material durability, how material gets catched, what size for what parts etc.) the magic sauce is to combine all of them into a good design. Thats the part you will not find much research about and where the hard trial& error comes into play. I have a friend at a professional shredder building company and they know it is not really possible to "calculate" or simulate shredders because there are too many factors that are not able to simulate other than testing it. Aka. if you want a shredder you are better of to replicate an existing design or buy one. If you want to make shredders you better prepare to build 3-5 prototypes before you come with something better than what already exists.

8:45 AM

The hard part is that many of the features you want are of competing nature against itself. e.g. you want sharp blades that cut easily, but then you also want them to last long, so they become less sharp. You could say you only want to shred foils, then you want sharper blades (that will create less temperature). If you throw in some production waste from an extruder you can end up with 3x3cm solid bar cutoffs which would break your blades instantly. So its also about how narrow of a use case you have or want to create. Imo shredders are one of the hardest things to design well, because you cannot throw simulation software at them and look the result. Its way easier to design CNC machines, 3d printers or tablesaws or whatever because its a simple combination of simulation and engineering tasks that goes pretty linear.

okay, thank you so much

marjanzitnik

€300

try zuendo.com, I just bough a 1.5kw 3-phase motor for 113.22€ (+ shipping & tax) (edited)

Does anybody need a shredder , i didnt use it , so im giveing it away, its double the standard width =30cm

tyl556

Does anybody need a shredder , i didnt use it , so im giveing it away, its double the standard width =30cm

Where are you at?

Fritz @easymoulds

The hard part is that many of the features you want are of competing nature against itself. e.g. you want sharp blades that cut easily, but then you also want them to last long, so they become less sharp. You could say you only want to shred foils, then you want sharper blades (that will create less temperature). If you throw in some production waste from an extruder you can end up with 3x3cm solid bar cutoffs which would break your blades instantly. So its also about how narrow of a use case you have or want to create. Imo shredders are one of the hardest things to design well, because you cannot throw simulation software at them and look the result. Its way easier to design CNC machines, 3d printers or tablesaws or whatever because its a simple combination of simulation and engineering tasks that goes pretty linear.

To be honest, I shredded all the incomplete test pots I made (minimum thickness 4mm, in some parts ~6mm), and also a solid piece of HDPE (a "turd shaped" piece of ~20cm lenght with a ~40mm thickness coming from an early test with a wooden mold, without any issue. With a 1.1kw motor with 90:1 gearobox. Obviously the motor had to do a hard work with it, but it doesn't stop (I set the VFD to a maximum current equal to the maximum current of the motor, no "torque boost"). And all with a "first try new design" shredder. Seems that I'm a lucky designer, isn't it?

2

Hi all, my shredder is complete at long last! I initially started with 5mm perforations in the screen, and found it really choked up and jammed. Now I'm at 7.5mm perforations. Its now operating way better. I am now onto building an injection machine with a log splitter as per @Piers's design, but oriented vertically. I am wanting to build a a machine with a larger shot volume than the standard PP machine. But selecting a band heater to achieve a fair and reasonable melt time has road blocked me

So, I was wondering if someone could please point me towards any info/calculations on the energy required to melt HDPE and PP? (I effectively want to calculate wattage vs volume vs time) Thanks all!

1

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

I'd say the common external flange bearing usage is driven by price. They are mass produced and widely available - whereas embedding them in the end plates would involve a 'more costly' machining process.

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

it's my old redesign shredder. very rough.its like first iteration. i'm wondering where did you get this photo

.

there are a lot factors. for me shredder is just a tool to make big plastic into smaller pieces. but its not perfect for making plastic pieces smaller than 5mm.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

To be honest, I shredded all the incomplete test pots I made (minimum thickness 4mm, in some parts ~6mm), and also a solid piece of HDPE (a "turd shaped" piece of ~20cm lenght with a ~40mm thickness coming from an early test with a wooden mold, without any issue. With a 1.1kw motor with 90:1 gearobox. Obviously the motor had to do a hard work with it, but it doesn't stop (I set the VFD to a maximum current equal to the maximum current of the motor, no "torque boost"). And all with a "first try new design" shredder. Seems that I'm a lucky designer, isn't it?

Every shredder kind of works, its more about the kg/h + kwh/kg + price to make and for how long it does that^^

here is some new photos.

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

and also . the external flange bearing right now we can use cast steel. it's tough and more reliable compare to the cast iron one.

Fritz @easymoulds

Every shredder kind of works, its more about the kg/h + kwh/kg + price to make and for how long it does that^^

my point of view is that there are design issues never tackled on the official design. That's why I decided to make a different one. The only thing I want to try to change is the gears, at the moment I running a 1:1 gearing between the blades, I want to try to keep the driven one slower by changing from Z70+Z70 to Z68+Z72 gears. (edited)

However, as some has said about mine, probably it is overenginereed, but since I can make it virtually for free, at least for the mechanical part, I made as it is. I never tried to keep a record of how much product I can make per hour, but I think it is near 20kg or more with three passes to keep the chips small, without a sieve. I have small batches of different colour at time, so I have to clean it out from the previous colour with the vacuum etc.

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

I agree, definitely worth it to machine - but the drive for profit often rules.

I'm looking for the drawings for the precious plastic extrusion basic screw. RobotDigg has pictures of these two drawings. Does anyone know where on PP website to find them?

adamj537

I'm looking for the drawings for the precious plastic extrusion basic screw. RobotDigg has pictures of these two drawings. Does anyone know where on PP website to find them?

heyy https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download in the mix workspace you can find the extruder basic and in the extrusion workspace you'll fin the extruder pro (edited)

4:25 PM

you can also check out the latest model of the Extruder PRO https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/extpro---12

EXTPRO - 1.2

The Extruder PRO 1.2 is an iteration based on the Extruder Pro 1.0 (https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionpro) This version of the Extruder PRO (1.2) solves 2 main problems: Safety and transportability. How? By following the CE safety requirements (European standards) and designing it to be easily disassembled. In this h...

1

Carolina

heyy https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/download in the mix workspace you can find the extruder basic and in the extrusion workspace you'll fin the extruder pro (edited)

Thanks! I've gotten those downloads, but they don't seem to include the drawing(s) for the extrusion screw itself. What am I missing?

adamj537

Thanks! I've gotten those downloads, but they don't seem to include the drawing(s) for the extrusion screw itself. What am I missing?

for the basic machine or pro?

Carolina

for the basic machine or pro?

The basic machine. I've got the drawing for the pro machine.

ok i found out why, its because the original extruder basic was designed with an auger screw (sort of a big drill bit) and the compression screw was added after as an upgrade, here's the how to for that https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw (edited)

Upgrade your Extrusion screw

Switching to an industrial screw will open up many new exciting ways of working with the extrusion machine.

Carolina

ok i found out why, its because the original extruder basic was designed with an auger screw (sort of a big drill bit) and the compression screw was added after as an upgrade, here's the how to for that https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/upgrade-your-extrusion-screw (edited)

Ok, I found that too! But the drawing there is from a third party (in another language) and not the Precious Plastic drawings (see my post above for images of them I found on RobotDigg).

adamj537

Ok, I found that too! But the drawing there is from a third party (in another language) and not the Precious Plastic drawings (see my post above for images of them I found on RobotDigg).

That its correct, though seems like they have the same measurements

Carolina

That its correct, though seems like they have the same measurements

Any idea if the (pictures of) drawings I found are just obsolete?

adamj537

Any idea if the (pictures of) drawings I found are just obsolete?

we didnt make those, probably he just translated the ones that are in the how to

Carolina

we didnt make those, probably he just translated the ones that are in the how to

Ok, thanks for the info!

Trentineer

Hi all, my shredder is complete at long last! I initially started with 5mm perforations in the screen, and found it really choked up and jammed. Now I'm at 7.5mm perforations. Its now operating way better. I am now onto building an injection machine with a log splitter as per @Piers's design, but oriented vertically. I am wanting to build a a machine with a larger shot volume than the standard PP machine. But selecting a band heater to achieve a fair and reasonable melt time has road blocked me

So, I was wondering if someone could please point me towards any info/calculations on the energy required to melt HDPE and PP? (I effectively want to calculate wattage vs volume vs time) Thanks all!

@Butte (PP Philippines) - you've modified and created a number of machines I've seen on your youTube channel - perhaps you could please help point me in the right direction?

Trentineer

Hi all, my shredder is complete at long last! I initially started with 5mm perforations in the screen, and found it really choked up and jammed. Now I'm at 7.5mm perforations. Its now operating way better. I am now onto building an injection machine with a log splitter as per @Piers's design, but oriented vertically. I am wanting to build a a machine with a larger shot volume than the standard PP machine. But selecting a band heater to achieve a fair and reasonable melt time has road blocked me

So, I was wondering if someone could please point me towards any info/calculations on the energy required to melt HDPE and PP? (I effectively want to calculate wattage vs volume vs time) Thanks all!

my log splitter powered injection molder has a approx 500mm stroke, 25mm dia bore, 2000 watts of heat and can run 35 gram shots one per minute. the barrel is longer than the piston travel so there is always a large amount of plastic in the end that is molten, but when the piston reach the end of travel it all will not eject. this allows me to weigh my shot size, and run the piston to the end every time and maintain a consistent and fast production rate. We have run well over 5000 pieces with our machine before it failed due to the piston jamming. we are at present upgrading the barrel to 30mm diameter ID 40mm OD 600mm long, but it is not a rush to complete as we have other paying projects to do first.

fplast

Click to see attachment 🖼️

how the mould are attached in this extruder? is possible for you to post some video of the moulds change process?

GamingFedora

Where are you at?

europe south east, but doesnt matter i could send wherever you like

tyl556

europe south east, but doesnt matter i could send wherever you like

Do I need to pay for shipping?

Hello ! 2 years ago, I puchased a professionnal 18V screwdriver with brushless motor to power low-tech market-garden tools . It's MAXIMAL tork is 110 NM at 480 RPM using first gear and 47 NM at 2100 rpm using second gear. Do you think it should possible to use this screwdriver to power a V 3.3 shredder with 3 Blade Teeth running at about 60 RPM for demonstration purpose ? What would be the influence on the tork while using a 8:1 gear (chain drive) to get 60 RPM ? (edited)

nrigo

Hello ! 2 years ago, I puchased a professionnal 18V screwdriver with brushless motor to power low-tech market-garden tools . It's MAXIMAL tork is 110 NM at 480 RPM using first gear and 47 NM at 2100 rpm using second gear. Do you think it should possible to use this screwdriver to power a V 3.3 shredder with 3 Blade Teeth running at about 60 RPM for demonstration purpose ? What would be the influence on the tork while using a 8:1 gear (chain drive) to get 60 RPM ? (edited)

@aina82#2645 I love your ambition for this. I see the numbers you are sharing but I am struggling with the torque and speed ratings, so let me sort this out. Typically the motor is: 1400rpm 1500w 14nm Target rpm is around 60, we use a 20:1 reducer to get 70rpm. Torque increases 20x (let's just ignore loss for now), so 20x 14nm turns into 280nm. You have: 110nm 480rpm Target is 60rpm. 8:1 ratio to get 60rpm 8x 110nm = 880nm I might be tired or something but your screw driver would have to be quite large and would be capable of running a 3.3 shredder.

1

If it's a typical cordless drill/screw driver... Sure, it might work but it would have to be geared so low that the speeds would be really slow to have enough torque. 3 blades and not many bottlecaps at a time, maybe one? At this point I'd say it would be better to put a crank on the machine or hook up a bicycle so you can use human strength.

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

@aina82#2645 I love your ambition for this. I see the numbers you are sharing but I am struggling with the torque and speed ratings, so let me sort this out. Typically the motor is: 1400rpm 1500w 14nm Target rpm is around 60, we use a 20:1 reducer to get 70rpm. Torque increases 20x (let's just ignore loss for now), so 20x 14nm turns into 280nm. You have: 110nm 480rpm Target is 60rpm. 8:1 ratio to get 60rpm 8x 110nm = 880nm I might be tired or something but your screw driver would have to be quite large and would be capable of running a 3.3 shredder.

Many thanks for your replies. It's an heavy screwdriver with hammer (1.9 kg without battery) and I'm using it with 8 Ah batteries. There is no technica datat available regarding the motor power, but it think it could be about 350 W or a bit more. (edited)

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Many thanks you for your precisions. I found these smaller versions of the shredder on the Bazar and one of them is running with a 24 VDC 200 W motor. I think a smaller shredder like these could do the job for demonstration purpose in events, with my screwdriver, with a crank or a bike. https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/micro-light-twin-shaft-shredder/ https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/shredder-mini-handcranked-shredder/ http://energorower.pl/en/product/the-plastic-bottle-shredder/ (edited)

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: MICROLIGHT TWIN SHAFT SHRE...

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: Shredder Mini - Handcranke...

admin

The plastic bottle shredder with spinning EnergyBike - Energorower

Energy needed to power the shredder is generated by a person pedaling on a bicycle. Grinding 1 bottle of 1.5 liters takes about 20 seconds.

Peak torque for cordless drill are meant as the maximum torque they can apply for a short time to do their job. Hammer ones rely on the impact torque they achieve by rotating a mass smashing against another part locked to the driven tool. It haven't that torque directly from the motor.

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Peak torque for cordless drill are meant as the maximum torque they can apply for a short time to do their job. Hammer ones rely on the impact torque they achieve by rotating a mass smashing against another part locked to the driven tool. It haven't that torque directly from the motor.

Thank you for this good point. I should't consider the 110 nm peak torque as tipical torque. (edited)

I love the idea of a bike-powered demonstration machine. I wonder if it could be set up with a flywheel of some kind to build up/store energy?

1

JohnNephew

I love the idea of a bike-powered demonstration machine. I wonder if it could be set up with a flywheel of some kind to build up/store energy?

I had a local university design team (roughly) put one together that was able to shred water bottles/milk jugs readily: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZkYyb_sUAs (edited)

AVI KATZEN

Bike Powered Plastic Shredder

1

JohnNephew

I love the idea of a bike-powered demonstration machine. I wonder if it could be set up with a flywheel of some kind to build up/store energy?

I wonder the same about a flywheel setup, rather for a shredder with krank. My feeling is that it would be a little less useful for a bike-powered machine, but who knows ? Does anyone have experience with flywheel to size it and to define its rotanional speed ? (edited)

you'd want a one-way (ratcheting / freewheel) bearing so it doesn't tear your arm off, otherwise the more weight the better as long as you can spin it up

1

7:36 PM

Automotive flywheels would be suitable sizes/masses and widely available for free from any mechanic, they have nice mounting patterns for bolts in the center as well

7:37 PM

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/one-way-bearings/

The older exercise bikes have a flywheel. You just need to take off the brake/friction pads and you have a pretty nice pedal powered demo platform

1

I've seen a shredder with a flywheel on the blade box. You'll need to make sure that your shredder box has all the hardware installed tight and make sure your bearings don't shift. The flywheel helps out considerably and the other perk is that if it does jam, you have something to grab on to for easily reversing the machine

1

Making a flywheel isn't diffucult, maybe from one or more gym weight. Better to put it on a "fast" shaft, and not on the shredder shaft, for example on the pedals, but if there's a way to make it running faster it is better, the faster it rotates, the bigger the inertia.

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Making a flywheel isn't diffucult, maybe from one or more gym weight. Better to put it on a "fast" shaft, and not on the shredder shaft, for example on the pedals, but if there's a way to make it running faster it is better, the faster it rotates, the bigger the inertia.

My fear is always going to be having too much torque on the shredder box and things break. But, if it's human powered... might be ok

so my metal supplier now only can supply under size thickness steel

. Only way around that is to have these two parts also cut in 0.5mm or 0.9mm sheet metal to shim the assembly tight.

Hi all, For two years I've tried to build my own shredder and recycle my plastic waste. I failed, I already invested too much money in this project (like 700 euros or so) and that is it, I gave up. Cannot make it work. I'd like to sell it or throw it together with all plastic collected for 2 years in my house. What would be the best place? Already created an ad on a Facebook market, but might be there is also some place for that? (I'm from the Czech Republic if it matters)

Sorry to hear it, @RKeyQQ. You made it pretty close to getting the shredder running, but if you're burned out and feel defeated, i think many of us have come across similar situations when working with plastic recycling. Facebook market, craigslist, ebay, not sure what else. Good luck selling your items. If you have a normal recycling stream to put your plastics, that's where you should put them. Maybe you have some recycling facility in your city as well?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Sorry to hear it, @RKeyQQ. You made it pretty close to getting the shredder running, but if you're burned out and feel defeated, i think many of us have come across similar situations when working with plastic recycling. Facebook market, craigslist, ebay, not sure what else. Good luck selling your items. If you have a normal recycling stream to put your plastics, that's where you should put them. Maybe you have some recycling facility in your city as well?

Yes, no problems with recycling in general. I just wanted to recycle my failed 3d prints, but it became too much. I thought might be there is allowed to sell somewhere. Nevermind then. (edited)

RKeyQQ

Hi all, For two years I've tried to build my own shredder and recycle my plastic waste. I failed, I already invested too much money in this project (like 700 euros or so) and that is it, I gave up. Cannot make it work. I'd like to sell it or throw it together with all plastic collected for 2 years in my house. What would be the best place? Already created an ad on a Facebook market, but might be there is also some place for that? (I'm from the Czech Republic if it matters)

It’s a shame to give up after two years of effort, but I understand. Did you try to collaborate with other people or to request some help to solve your issue ?

nrigo

It’s a shame to give up after two years of effort, but I understand. Did you try to collaborate with other people or to request some help to solve your issue ?

It is only my fault, in general. I've tried to ask here but all solutions are complicated/expensive. It would be simple for me to have just a list of elements I need to purchase with the links where I can do that. I bought a motor on amazon, it has a hexagon shaft, and I have a shredder with that keyway. I cannot replace the shaft in the motor because it is cheap and cannot be disassembled, only broken. I cannot purchase a coupler for that, so I need to create something. All tubes with bolts solutions are weak and break after some random time like 5-500 minutes. Do I want to purchase another motor? No, because I have no idea if another motor would have a compatible shaft. I and my friend tried to wield gears and a chain, nope it is not working because again bolts are weak, but wielding gears is a bad idea when you would need to change it later. For me, it became too much time and money investment.

11:51 AM

And I also torn keyway hole a bit during the trial and testing so most probably I'd need to purchase another shredder shaft. No, thanks.

RKeyQQ

It is only my fault, in general. I've tried to ask here but all solutions are complicated/expensive. It would be simple for me to have just a list of elements I need to purchase with the links where I can do that. I bought a motor on amazon, it has a hexagon shaft, and I have a shredder with that keyway. I cannot replace the shaft in the motor because it is cheap and cannot be disassembled, only broken. I cannot purchase a coupler for that, so I need to create something. All tubes with bolts solutions are weak and break after some random time like 5-500 minutes. Do I want to purchase another motor? No, because I have no idea if another motor would have a compatible shaft. I and my friend tried to wield gears and a chain, nope it is not working because again bolts are weak, but wielding gears is a bad idea when you would need to change it later. For me, it became too much time and money investment.

In your case, I would sell the motor, repare the keyway hole using a file and build a crank to run your shredder. If you go back a little bit in the thread, we talked about the utility of a flywheel with crank powered shredders. If you have the possibility to sell your shredded plastic, then you could purchase a better motor fitting the shredder requirements. What shredder model do you have ? (edited)

nrigo

In your case, I would sell the motor, repare the keyway hole using a file and build a crank to run your shredder. If you go back a little bit in the thread, we talked about the utility of a flywheel with crank powered shredders. If you have the possibility to sell your shredded plastic, then you could purchase a better motor fitting the shredder requirements. What shredder model do you have ? (edited)

I shred successfully and clean only 3 liters of PLA plastic, don't worth selling. Don't know the version, the usual one with S-shaped blades. The best approach I've seen in life is to sell something that hasn't been used in a year. Today 2 years left. I realize that I don't want to invest time and money in that project anymore. But again, everything is my fault, I don't blame anyone or anything. PP is a great idea, project and lifestyle.

https://youtu.be/sJxQAY-qE84 experimenting with a different blade design on my high speed shredder. first sack of bottle caps here:

Precious Plastic Philippines

March 7, 2023

8:37 AM

very crisp and clean cuts, even the 1 liter hdpe bottles were shredded super fast.

1

more extrusion upgrades. 1kw heaters.

3

our biggest diesel powered v3 shredder yet.

3

3:39 AM

10hp. the engine should shred even at idle making it run more quiet than the 7.5hp gas engine.

3

Butte (PP Philippines)

10hp. the engine should shred even at idle making it run more quiet than the 7.5hp gas engine.

Love the positive attitude hahaha

I'm looking for an injection machine for our lab, to produce one specific test piece semi regularly. In theory manual hand operation should be no issue, but I'm a bit worried about repeatability. Is repeatability AWESOME with the manual version regardless, or should I look for a semi automated one? Or does anyone have experience with automating the PP Injection machine?

sioux612

I'm looking for an injection machine for our lab, to produce one specific test piece semi regularly. In theory manual hand operation should be no issue, but I'm a bit worried about repeatability. Is repeatability AWESOME with the manual version regardless, or should I look for a semi automated one? Or does anyone have experience with automating the PP Injection machine?

If I were you, I'd consider going with a pneumatic style injection machine, the less of a human element, the easier it is to repeat. You of course will need an air compressor, regulator, 2-way pneumatic cylinder, and several other parts to get it going but it's doable. I've seen this particular design in a few places now and I got to try it as well.

1

10:07 AM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/nps_air-press-injector-v1

NPS_Air press injector-v1

Since 2016, NoPlasticSunday has been researching and developing machinery and equipment for plastic recycling using Precious Plastic in Korea. In April 2022, we open-sourced our drawings and manuals of the Air press injector v1 for free. ✳︎ Contributors ✳︎ PRAG manufacture team | Lee Cohni, Choi Hyeontaek, Jin Yonghun PRAG brand team | Cho Mi...

https://youtu.be/JpIRCmk2cRU Here is an automated system someone made. There's definitely some similarities in the build, just a lot more add-ons.

AndysMachines

DIY automatic injection moulding machine finished

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

If I were you, I'd consider going with a pneumatic style injection machine, the less of a human element, the easier it is to repeat. You of course will need an air compressor, regulator, 2-way pneumatic cylinder, and several other parts to get it going but it's doable. I've seen this particular design in a few places now and I got to try it as well.

I had been looking at the Korean one that costs 3500 on the bazar, because I won't be building it myself. Modifiying maybe but definitely won't be building it myself. Just need to see if anybody offers something similar that ships to germany Since it will be used in an industrial setting (for our Lab stuff) high pressure air and all the stuff like that aren't an issue

sioux612

I had been looking at the Korean one that costs 3500 on the bazar, because I won't be building it myself. Modifiying maybe but definitely won't be building it myself. Just need to see if anybody offers something similar that ships to germany Since it will be used in an industrial setting (for our Lab stuff) high pressure air and all the stuff like that aren't an issue

Someone was selling them here in Indonesia, I think they were asking somewhere between 20,000,000 and 25,000,000idr or 1,300—1,600eur I should look into getting an export license.

We're open sourcing this machine ❤️ stay tuned!

1

Unfortunately I need about 300c for rPET Probably no real reason to go higher than 100g shot size though as the biggest object I'd need would be 50g

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

If I were you, I'd consider going with a pneumatic style injection machine, the less of a human element, the easier it is to repeat. You of course will need an air compressor, regulator, 2-way pneumatic cylinder, and several other parts to get it going but it's doable. I've seen this particular design in a few places now and I got to try it as well.

I am making a version of the myriad arbor injector with an adaption for a torque wrench on the axle, so I will be able to calibrate and effectively repeat the same injection pressure over and over.. I expect that different moulds will requiere slightly different torques,... I make this design as the step up from a original lever injector to an arbor injector has multiplied by about 6x the injection pressure, and my flat moulds with 8mm steel sandwich outer plates I was forcing open too easily (and obviously the injected part came out with a thick flash!)

sioux612

I had been looking at the Korean one that costs 3500 on the bazar, because I won't be building it myself. Modifiying maybe but definitely won't be building it myself. Just need to see if anybody offers something similar that ships to germany Since it will be used in an industrial setting (for our Lab stuff) high pressure air and all the stuff like that aren't an issue

I am finishing the touches on my new 2-in-1 machine (v3 shredder with 1.5kw 3-phase motor, VFD to be able to plug in to single phase anywhere, arbor injector with 60cm levers (about 180kg/cm2 with my 75kg weight), a thin frame (90x94x30cm) and all parts, shredder and motor included, are within this frame, so it fits in the boot of my car.. still weighs 110kgs so needs 2 people to get it into and out of the car, but also have option of a wheeled trolly set, so the machine can be easily wheeled around like on a crate trolly.. (I am based in Canary Islands) (edited)

1

These are pretty inexpensive/easy to build if you want to make an inline gauge you could put inline on the injector "plunger" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3r5vovF4UI

Lachie’s Garage

How To Build A Simple Hydraulic Force Gauge: Step By Step

Mattia

We're open sourcing this machine ❤️ stay tuned!

interesting!!

sioux612

Unfortunately I need about 300c for rPET Probably no real reason to go higher than 100g shot size though as the biggest object I'd need would be 50g

at present my injector uses a 32mm dia tube, with about 35cm stroke, about 350cm3....

waterppk

These are pretty inexpensive/easy to build if you want to make an inline gauge you could put inline on the injector "plunger" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3r5vovF4UI

interesting as well! although would have to see how to make some transfer part, to transfer the force from the molten plastic to the oil in the gauge...

thanks, not like I don't have enough other ideas in my head, but this is also in there now

lol, yeah, you could either put that as the mount for the screw (IE: reaction point for the load) or put the tube against the pressure pad on the plunger itself (sort of like 2 coaxial tubes, one a guide one the thing the pushes on the plastic)

actually this suggested video at the end of that one would seem to be pretty close to what I was thinking... instead of the jack, the tube would have at its end a small junction, in the horizontal tube a cylindrical steel pellet to transfer the load to the oil on the other side... how to calibrate however would be another ball game... TBH, for the moment if my torque wrench idea works, that will be more than enough to be able to consistently fill moulds w/o overfilling, which is just too easy with the arbor injector

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

https://youtu.be/JpIRCmk2cRU Here is an automated system someone made. There's definitely some similarities in the build, just a lot more add-ons.

nortunately the blueprints for this are not that good. i joined the guys patreon for the blueprints but found that they were kinda useless

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Someone was selling them here in Indonesia, I think they were asking somewhere between 20,000,000 and 25,000,000idr or 1,300—1,600eur I should look into getting an export license.

i have a buster beagle mk3 available for 850usd plus shipping.

The diesel shredder quick test before I put on the safety guards. Just want to check operation first. turns out one belt was loose so we had to adjust that ,and then it was closing time Friday afternoon, so we will finish up Monday. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XL5-aecnsUY

Precious Plastic Philippines

will it shred and recycle? #plasticrecycling #sustainability

1

waterppk

These are pretty inexpensive/easy to build if you want to make an inline gauge you could put inline on the injector "plunger" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3r5vovF4UI

Here's a simple one made from old brake parts: https://youtu.be/r2v7QpJB7GY

AndysMachines

Building a Hydraulic Load Cell

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

https://youtu.be/JpIRCmk2cRU Here is an automated system someone made. There's definitely some similarities in the build, just a lot more add-ons.

Ooo this cool but seems massive. FOund a desktop sized Autamted injection mold setup on youtuber. What just seems to be two stepper moters and and extruder small extruder setup https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWbRwreBXfk

Andrey Korotkov

Microplast double mold with tunnel sprues. 2х местная форма с туне...

The most recent versions of the Precious Plastic machines are designed for UL certification, yes? Does anyone know what UL standards are applicable?

Mattia

We're open sourcing this machine ❤️ stay tuned!

That's good, lot better than manual ones, but I think that hydraulic is better. A little costly, but better. With a 50mm hydraulic cylinder pushing a 30mm injector, mine can reach >550bar injection pressure, with a 0.75kw motor.

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

That's good, lot better than manual ones, but I think that hydraulic is better. A little costly, but better. With a 50mm hydraulic cylinder pushing a 30mm injector, mine can reach >550bar injection pressure, with a 0.75kw motor.

Do you have any links to the hydraulic parts you used?

Lachlan Aus

Do you have any links to the hydraulic parts you used?

Nope, since I made all from scratch. I bought just some commercial parts, like the pump (the smallest I can find, 0.8cc/rev, NOS Parker part from eBay), the motor (a simple three phase 4poles 0.75kw), the coupling between them, the distributor, the pressure limiting valve, fittings and seals. All the rest are made from scratch, but it is possible to build it starting from commercial parts or adapting a pre-existing machine like a simple press, it's just a matter of making the barrel supports. However if you have a lathe and a drill press you can make your own, making an hydraulic cylinder and the plates isn't too difficult, it needs only time, materials and tooling.

1

11:04 AM

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Nope, since I made all from scratch. I bought just some commercial parts, like the pump (the smallest I can find, 0.8cc/rev, NOS Parker part from eBay), the motor (a simple three phase 4poles 0.75kw), the coupling between them, the distributor, the pressure limiting valve, fittings and seals. All the rest are made from scratch, but it is possible to build it starting from commercial parts or adapting a pre-existing machine like a simple press, it's just a matter of making the barrel supports. However if you have a lathe and a drill press you can make your own, making an hydraulic cylinder and the plates isn't too difficult, it needs only time, materials and tooling.

It's been a while since i've worked with hydraulics... but you're giving me an itch to at least look at what it might cost to get something like this going. hahaha

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

It's been a while since i've worked with hydraulics... but you're giving me an itch to at least look at what it might cost to get something like this going. hahaha

Precious Plastic Melbourne has made an injection machine with a log splitter, a small one, but starting from a bigger one can be helpful to have a sturdier structure. However, I have some 2D blueprint of mine, if needed.

there seems to be a problem with Robot Digg last couple weeks getting parts shipped out. Got a order in for a few weeks, and they keep promising to ship out in next day or two, after each message, but it has not shipped.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Precious Plastic Melbourne has made an injection machine with a log splitter, a small one, but starting from a bigger one can be helpful to have a sturdier structure. However, I have some 2D blueprint of mine, if needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xKnkRCT72o&t=5s did a video of my design. It is not drawings rather the basic overview and things to watch for while setting it up. This particular machine had the first log splitter last for about 2000 shots, but it was a very used splitter we bought to begin with. We then changed to a brand new splitter and bolted it to the same frame, plunger, barrel etc. the barrel got us another 4000+ shots before it somehow jammed permanently. I have a actual 30mm diameter barrel and machined plunger to replace it but will not do so until the next round of orders. I also have since changed how the mold attaches to the molder and the next iteration will have a much improved clamping mechanism.

Precious Plastic Philippines

DIY Plastic Injection Molder made from log splitter

1

I made my press, basically three 350x350x15mm steel plates with 4x 25mm diameter columns at the 4 angles between the upper and lower ones, with the central one moving up and down with the hydraulic cylinder, guided by 4 teflon covered bushings on the columns, for compression molding. It's a very simple design. Later I added the injector, the moving plate has a 30mm hole in the center (and some rows of 8.5mm holes I made initially to fix the compression molds), and the hydraulic cylinder I made has a 25mm rod. Then I put a 30mm brass piston on the rod to press the plastic, fixed to the rod end with a 10.9 steel countersunk hex head screw. The cylinder rod is passing in the 30mm hole of the plate, and on top of the piston I put a brass turned washer, with 40mm external diameter and 25.2internal. In this way the central steel plate comes up when the cylinder is moving upwards. Under the moving plate I put the injector, and over it I put 6x mold springs, the stiffer I found with a 8mm hole (square wire ones, they have 58kg force for 10.2mm compression). Then, when I move the hydraulic piston to the top, I have ~350kg force from the springs. They push the assembly (top plate and the injector) on the mold inlet, to avoid leakage. After that, the rod with the brass piston starts traveling in the injector tube to inject the plastic. This design is a compromise, having the injector vertical and the moving plate of the press near the injector inlet I have to push manually the plastic in it, and being the piston smaller than the rod I have to pay attention to avoid plastic sitting on top of the piston, but it isn't a big issue.

4:52 PM

Having the piston smaller than the cylinder rod (and the piston made with brass) I have less heat going in the rod (cylinder seals are happy of that), I avoid any wear issue in the tube from rubbing of a steel piston, the brass piston can wear out, it's 10' work to replace it, and any warping of the injector tube isn't affecting the straightness of the cylinder rod. The downside is that I have ~50mm adjustable height on the spring supports, so with molds height less than 50mm I have to put some spacers between the lower plate and the mold to achieve the wanted (not needed) pre-load of the injector nozzle on the mold inlet. Not needed because I tried to inject without the nozzle pre-loaded on the mold, and nothing happens, no plastic is coming out.

4:57 PM

I uploaded a video yesterday of the keychain injection on "products and molds", there isn't injector pre-load. Now I just modified the mold to avoid pressing with a conical nozzle between the two halves of the mold, seems that applying 1T of injection force on a 60° cone sitting in between two separate parts have the tendency to split them apart. So I made a bushing with the cone+passage for the plastic with a cylindrical external, and the seat for it on the mold. This evening I try it.

are people using a heat press like this (https://www.vevor.com/heat-press-machine-c_11148/vevor-heat-press-15x15-1400w-t-shirt-digital-clamshell-sublimation-transfer-p_010455654440) to make sheets?

VEVOR Heat Press 15X15 Inch Heat Press Machine Industrial Quality P...

Discover VEVOR Heat Press 15X15 Inch Heat Press Machine Industrial Quality Power T Shirt Heat Press Sublimation Machine Clamshell Heat Press Machine for T Shirts (Blue), 1400W Heating Power and Extraordinary Quality at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.

waterppk

are people using a heat press like this (https://www.vevor.com/heat-press-machine-c_11148/vevor-heat-press-15x15-1400w-t-shirt-digital-clamshell-sublimation-transfer-p_010455654440) to make sheets?

The answer is yes!

awesome, thanks for the quick reply - any tips?

not really, did not use it a lot yet

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I uploaded a video yesterday of the keychain injection on "products and molds", there isn't injector pre-load. Now I just modified the mold to avoid pressing with a conical nozzle between the two halves of the mold, seems that applying 1T of injection force on a 60° cone sitting in between two separate parts have the tendency to split them apart. So I made a bushing with the cone+passage for the plastic with a cylindrical external, and the seat for it on the mold. This evening I try it.

A friend was using a loose nut on top of his mould for injecting. Seemed to work well, but maybe not so great if you're running an automated system.

waterppk

are people using a heat press like this (https://www.vevor.com/heat-press-machine-c_11148/vevor-heat-press-15x15-1400w-t-shirt-digital-clamshell-sublimation-transfer-p_010455654440) to make sheets?

Not me but some friends do. If it's the style with heater only on one side you might need to flip your mould after things melt down. You can go slightly oversized too but you need to reposition the mould in the machine about 4 times to get a good melt and fill.

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

A friend was using a loose nut on top of his mould for injecting. Seemed to work well, but maybe not so great if you're running an automated system.

Yes, the bushing I made is the same concept, a hollow passage to avoid splitting the mold in half. I haven't tried yet, I had to mill some parts this evening.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LKRCGL0i8IA upgrading the cooling tank for our plastic lumber production. We was using metal barrels welded together as the cooling tank, but after many tons of production and my employees throwing the molds in the water, the barrel tank is leaking and falling apart.

Precious Plastic Philippines

Recycling plant upgrades

4:07 AM

we are focusing on the work flow and maximizing the limited shop space we have. Hopefully this will be completed and painted today so we can start a production run of an order for a half ton of plastic lumber which should take about 3 working days. (edited)

https://youtube.com/shorts/6QqW1_pjCYE diesel v3 plastic shredder.

Precious Plastic Philippines

#plasticrecycling #preciousplasticphilippines #innovativetechnologi...

OK so I downloaded the data pack of the heat press to get a quote from my local machine shop to quote me on manufacturing the heat press. My question I would like to ask is why is the sheet size 1000mm x 1000mm? Have anyone attempted to make the bed size bigger say 1200mm x 1200mm... I would like to get any feedback on the possibility of increasing the bed size.

In the download kit you have a 1,2x1,2 heated bed which is based on the 2,4x1,2 aluminium sheet. In the how-to you have a bigger sheet-press, with a 1,5x1,5 heat bed (based on a 3x1,5m aluminium sheet). With this one you can up to 1,3x1,3 m sheet.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I uploaded a video yesterday of the keychain injection on "products and molds", there isn't injector pre-load. Now I just modified the mold to avoid pressing with a conical nozzle between the two halves of the mold, seems that applying 1T of injection force on a 60° cone sitting in between two separate parts have the tendency to split them apart. So I made a bushing with the cone+passage for the plastic with a cylindrical external, and the seat for it on the mold. This evening I try it.

shit man, i was getting along fine with only looking at this channel, now I'm going to have to revise that channel too, to see your work (and others!)

Andymid

shit man, i was getting along fine with only looking at this channel, now I'm going to have to revise that channel too, to see your work (and others!)

Hope you like my work! If interested, I'm posting also on Instagram, search for insta_ventu

Friends at normal living have an oversized sheet press with some other modifications like linear bearings. https://instagram.com/norm.al.living?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Built by a local machine builder. If you look at the how-to section at http://community.preciousplastic.com you'll find over sized sheet press designs. (edited)

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

If anyone in the US is looking for a shredder (granulator) there's a bunch of them on HGR for <$300 right now: https://hgrinc.com/?all=1&view=grid&aisle=&from=&to=&markdowns=0&newarrivals=0&sort=&kw=granulator&per_page=24&min_price=0&max_price=500&item_location=all&pn=1&search_type&last_chance=&promos=&brand=

3:35 PM

they'll freight ship them to your location but buyer beware, these are used machines so you're best to inspect in person

fyi for PP plastic you do not actually need a plastic shredder. you can use a hammer mill. Hammer mills will only work with PP and PLA plastic because it is brittle and shatters, unlike the other plastics that are more impact resistant.

1:46 AM

i saw the Indians using a hammer mill to process PP plastic on YT the other day.

Hello, does anyone has experience with Schillers or has a tip about cooling down the water ?

I have been looking at the shredder and extruder machines and was wondering: has anyone tried using one motor for both machines? Either using a gear system or even just a modular kind of setup? Even cooler would be if you had one motor running both and could pull the extrusion screw out of the extruder to be replaced with an injection molding lever, using only one motor and one heated bar to have a shredder, an extrusion machine and an injection machine. Part of me thinks this could be a really cool way to bring down costs and reduce space requirements for small shops but the other part of me is wondering if this will build unnecessary weaknesses into the design. What do you guys think? (edited)

waterppk

are people using a heat press like this (https://www.vevor.com/heat-press-machine-c_11148/vevor-heat-press-15x15-1400w-t-shirt-digital-clamshell-sublimation-transfer-p_010455654440) to make sheets?

I was just looking at one of these heat presses the other day wondering how they work! I know BrothersMake swear by panini presses so I thought this could be a budget friendly step up! You'll have to share your results if you try it out!

I think the panini press is a better idea since they heat on both sides, would be pretty easy to change the temp target with a cheap PID controller too

waterppk

I think the panini press is a better idea since they heat on both sides, would be pretty easy to change the temp target with a cheap PID controller too

Gotcha. I thought that the fact that the shirt press clamps down might be beneficial for cooling. I can't tell you how many sheets I have tried making with and without clamping that have gotten warped on me. The one thing I haven't been able to try is a controlled cool while the sheet is still in the clamp.

gotcha

Oscar Cornejo

Hello, does anyone has experience with Schillers or has a tip about cooling down the water ?

I think @Butte (PP Philippines) might have some suggestions

Has anyone tried this shredder?

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

Why is it a bad idea? Looks identical to the precious plastic version

tonelessbod

Why is it a bad idea? Looks identical to the precious plastic version

Sorry, the previous user who responded is a known banned user. It might look identical at a glance but it looks to be about 1/2 the size of the shredder pro.

From just looking at it, I think users might try and apply too much power to the shredder which will cause components to break. Make sure you have a conversation with the builder, have an acceptable service agreement, and you might be ok. I'd ask for videos of it running at least and inquire about issues that might come up just so you know what you're getting into. Buying from a reputable source helps.

tonelessbod

Why is it a bad idea? Looks identical to the precious plastic version

I don't think this sort of movement is good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSXYKDTGlJ4

diy chen

How many plastic plates can the 250W mini shredder cut per hour?

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Sorry, the previous user who responded is a known banned user. It might look identical at a glance but it looks to be about 1/2 the size of the shredder pro.

No worries at all Noted on all points, thanks so much for the insight Ben I appreciate it

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Hope you like my work! If interested, I'm posting also on Instagram, search for insta_ventu

Love your work dude! You are Italian!

Oscar Cornejo

Love your work dude! You are Italian!

Thank you! But my birthplace isn't a merit, just a case!

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I don't think this sort of movement is good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSXYKDTGlJ4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_wMUkHrzs4&t=127s　ooo that was the guy who made the rolling mesh filter

diy chen

Install mini shredder and rolling filter mesh

2:57 PM

For the price. Incuding the gear box and coupler its not too bad.

3:03 PM

Been tring to get a couper & gear that works for my shreader kit for a while now. Having it all on one package seem like a good deal at $300. But i am still hard to trust template sales websites

that poor battery drill

Looks like they're doing the work to pick out parts from Aliexpress/Alibaba and wrap some design around it, the price seems in-line with that

3:33 PM

Looks much better bolted down to a table, when it was running free-air and orbiting the shredder assembly it wasn't looking great

JarvisSan

Been tring to get a couper & gear that works for my shreader kit for a while now. Having it all on one package seem like a good deal at $300. But i am still hard to trust template sales websites

I've had a similar problem but found a local machinist nearby who was able to make the coupling for me. I understand your struggles, it's not always easy to find all the parts to make these machines work, it really does vary from country to country. I'd rather spend $300 to get your shredder running than on this thing. It doesn't seem like a bad deal but I'm really not sure about its longevity.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I've had a similar problem but found a local machinist nearby who was able to make the coupling for me. I understand your struggles, it's not always easy to find all the parts to make these machines work, it really does vary from country to country. I'd rather spend $300 to get your shredder running than on this thing. It doesn't seem like a bad deal but I'm really not sure about its longevity.

Yeah lucky i got my hands on an industral shreader that solved my problem but most base shreader kits dont come with much help on that side

12:49 AM

THen i find a kit on the bazar with the coupler

proberly on of the best kits on ther https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/shredder/shredder-kits/v3.3-basic-10mm-extruder-crusher-fully-built-and-tested-new-3-cutting-blade-design./

Machines :: Shredder :: Shredder Kits :: V3.3 EXTRUDER/CRUSHER SHRE...

12:50 AM

Not bad at €385.00

12:50 AM

Has anyone used this kit befor ?

tonelessbod

Why is it a bad idea? Looks identical to the precious plastic version

Don't know what the deleted answer was, but no. It isn't. The idea of connecting the shredder case to the gearbox is good, better than the PP shredder, IMHO. The way in which they connected the parts is simply horrible. Those small round bars aren't in any way capable of be parts of a reliable machine. Think at what a lever is, and apply to that design!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Zv_DDpvPdmc another frankenstein gasoline powered v3 shredder. for use on remote islands. safety guards and paint tomorrow..

Precious Plastic Philippines

gas engine precious plastic shredder

Machine upgrades. We have been struggling to get enough wattage for heaters in the extrusion machine. So we had these custom made. 50mm ID 200mm long. 1kw power. The cost was less than 2 pieces of 400 watt heater band, we can fit 3kw of heat on the 710mm v4 heater barrel.

4

1

Hello ! I would like to power a V3.3 shredder using a spinning bike. I worry about the torque delivered by the 18 kg flywheel that can rotate a bit more than 800 RPM (diameter is about 45 cm). I'm going to use a 25:1 to 30:1 gearbox to run the shredder at about 30 RPM which will increase the available torque. To avoid breakage, I think of adding a torque limiter on the shredder axis. From the description of a V.3.3 shredder kit sold on the Bazar by Modular Design Precious Plastic:

Superior choice of single phase 3kw motor (2800 RPM) with 50:1 wormgear/gearbox producing 56 RPM shaft rotation and an excellent torque gearbox ratio for this shredder combination of 380+nm. 40:1 will produce 310 nm and a comfortable 70 RPM.

Are these 380+ nm or maybe 400 nm to be considered as the maximum torque supported by the shredder ? (edited)

no idea max torque supported but I have run 5hp electric motors with the v3 and 10hp diesel engine with the standard 15 blade v3 gearbox. Only mod was upgrading to a 32mm hex shaft as the 32mm was easier to find and the input shaft is 1 inch.

1

At 3:13 in this video, the guy is talking about using a winch motor, and how it has plenty of torque and is already all wired up. Curious if anyone here has tried this before? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-k8kJ8yig

Teaching Tech

Recycling waste 3D prints with a Precious Plastics shredder

tonelessbod

At 3:13 in this video, the guy is talking about using a winch motor, and how it has plenty of torque and is already all wired up. Curious if anyone here has tried this before? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NL-k8kJ8yig

Ive dont that before it does work

1

9:09 PM

done

Hi All, does anyone know the actual gear reduction ratio and motor RPM on the Extruder Pro? The BOM calls for BAZ39-LE100ZLSB4P, but interpreting that from the Siemens documentation is... well, lets just say I gave up. I want to extrude a Recycle Rebuild brick in 4mins. I assume 1400 rpm for the motor. Just need to know the gearbox reduction. Thanks.

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hi All, does anyone know the actual gear reduction ratio and motor RPM on the Extruder Pro? The BOM calls for BAZ39-LE100ZLSB4P, but interpreting that from the Siemens documentation is... well, lets just say I gave up. I want to extrude a Recycle Rebuild brick in 4mins. I assume 1400 rpm for the motor. Just need to know the gearbox reduction. Thanks.

I found info from the build page for you.

12:05 PM

https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/extrusionprobuild

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I found info from the build page for you.

Thanks Ben.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I found info from the build page for you.

So if the desired output shaft rpm is 220-320 I need a 2-pole 2800 rpm motor with a 1:10 Gearbox. Output torque on a 3HP (2.2kw) 2 Pole at max rpm is 7Nm. I assume that at 1:10 torque is 70-75Nm which is at the lower end of the scale and below recommended. So... I have to look at a 3Kw 2Pole motor. Is this correct?

Geoff (PBI NTB)

So if the desired output shaft rpm is 220-320 I need a 2-pole 2800 rpm motor with a 1:10 Gearbox. Output torque on a 3HP (2.2kw) 2 Pole at max rpm is 7Nm. I assume that at 1:10 torque is 70-75Nm which is at the lower end of the scale and below recommended. So... I have to look at a 3Kw 2Pole motor. Is this correct?

Better starting with a 4 pole 1400rpm with a 5:1 reduction, the smaller the gear ratio the higher the efficiency, and usually 4pole motors itself have better efficiency. A 5:1 reduction can be made with belt and pulley, with a Poly-V belt transmission you can do it with a 30mm pulley on the motor and a 150mm pulley on the screw, to keep the dimensions small as possible. If you have a lathe you can make aluminium pulleys from scratch, you can find all the dimensions on the web. Another option is to use timing belts, they are flexible as needed, but you need to buy the pulleys. (edited)

For the injection machine, should I have nozzle thread on the outside of inside of the chamber. I'm using 25Nominal bore pipe (26ID, 34OD), the precious plastic plans have said about using a 1" BSP tap (and the nozzle threads on the outside) but other plans people have used a M27 tap to connect a nozzle by threading it on the inside

1

Lachlan Aus

For the injection machine, should I have nozzle thread on the outside of inside of the chamber. I'm using 25Nominal bore pipe (26ID, 34OD), the precious plastic plans have said about using a 1" BSP tap (and the nozzle threads on the outside) but other plans people have used a M27 tap to connect a nozzle by threading it on the inside

Good question. I have three injection barrels from three different machine builders and all the nozzles are different. One barrel is threaded on the inside and has a cap that's screwed in, that cap is tapped in the middle with 1/4" pipe threads. Another barrel has outside threads and a brass coupling connected to it with 1/2" pipe threads. I think the focus needs to be more on what fitting you want for the nozzle. I'm leaning more towards a tapered non-threaded nozzle and don't use brass if you are threading things in (it's not durable enough)

4:35 AM

Something like this for a nozzle might be OK. Just make sure things heat up enough before you start trying to inject. Also use a jack to press the mould into the nozzle.

1

Thankyou Ben! Looks like I have a bit more figuring out what I want to do with the barrel.. I definitely prefer the nozzle design like you've posted

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Better starting with a 4 pole 1400rpm with a 5:1 reduction, the smaller the gear ratio the higher the efficiency, and usually 4pole motors itself have better efficiency. A 5:1 reduction can be made with belt and pulley, with a Poly-V belt transmission you can do it with a 30mm pulley on the motor and a 150mm pulley on the screw, to keep the dimensions small as possible. If you have a lathe you can make aluminium pulleys from scratch, you can find all the dimensions on the web. Another option is to use timing belts, they are flexible as needed, but you need to buy the pulleys. (edited)

Thanks Davide.

1

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Thanks Davide.

You're welcome!

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Something like this for a nozzle might be OK. Just make sure things heat up enough before you start trying to inject. Also use a jack to press the mould into the nozzle.

I made a similar one but I didn't used commercial fittings. I made the cap and the nozzle from quench hardened steel, the tube is internally threaded (metric 35x1.5) to take the cap, the nozzle is 3/8" GAS . Tube ID is 30H8. I put in also a valve to stop the plastic flowing when not wanted. I can give blueprints if needed, since it seems working perfectly.

1

Putting a price estimate together for a sheet press build and looking to cut cost on the aluminium heat block + heater cartridge by replacing them with silicone mat heater like those you get on a 3D printer.

7:53 AM

Has anyone done something like this before ?

7:53 AM

or have a reason why this is not a good idea ?

JarvisSan

Putting a price estimate together for a sheet press build and looking to cut cost on the aluminium heat block + heater cartridge by replacing them with silicone mat heater like those you get on a 3D printer.

There's probably a few issues here. Silicone breaks down at about 200c and much quicker above that temperature. The heaters likely run off DC which would be a bit of a headache in terms of setting up power supplies. I think these have a thermocouple installed with the pads which is great if you use them and control the temperatures individually, however, I think it might be unlikely that you will use them this way.

1

Yeah was thinking that would be an issue. The product page said its got a 260 degrees but hard to trust as its from aliexpress

12:35 PM

Another option i was thinking of are these premade head blocks for egg heater

12:39 PM

Seem i can get 4 of them off amazon for about 40USD

JarvisSan

Another option i was thinking of are these premade head blocks for egg heater

If these are what I think they are, they have a shut off temperature, so you dont have to worry about them burning out. So you should get them for a higher rating such as 260C and still use a TC to help regulate the temperatures so they dont overheat the machine. Kind of a nice safety feature

1

anyone considered adapting a car to power the shredder?

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Better starting with a 4 pole 1400rpm with a 5:1 reduction, the smaller the gear ratio the higher the efficiency, and usually 4pole motors itself have better efficiency. A 5:1 reduction can be made with belt and pulley, with a Poly-V belt transmission you can do it with a 30mm pulley on the motor and a 150mm pulley on the screw, to keep the dimensions small as possible. If you have a lathe you can make aluminium pulleys from scratch, you can find all the dimensions on the web. Another option is to use timing belts, they are flexible as needed, but you need to buy the pulleys. (edited)

Davide, would a chain drive also be okay? Just thinking the tension from the belt, so it doesn't slip, might cause a bow in the screw and wear it prematurely?

sodadiet

anyone considered adapting a car to power the shredder?

Butte just sent me this link.... Maybe using the engine but not a car. I suggest not using your feet to feed a shredder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxAympzG1sE

Fonda Nugraha

Mesin diesel Mitsubishi PE di BP plastik Cianjur

1

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Davide, would a chain drive also be okay? Just thinking the tension from the belt, so it doesn't slip, might cause a bow in the screw and wear it prematurely?

The chain would be ok, but remember, the major part of the tension comes from the power transmission work. You are applying a force to the transmission. The solution is to have a good shaft support.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

The chain would be ok, but remember, the major part of the tension comes from the power transmission work. You are applying a force to the transmission. The solution is to have a good shaft support.

This is not the best photo but this how it's Currently setup. It has shaft/ barrel support but the distance between that support and the end of the screw shaft is longer which in my limited assessment, if a belt were applied would pull the shaft downward. Assuming motor installed underneath. As in this photo we are using an inline coupling there is no downward load on the screw. (edited)

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

There's probably a few issues here. Silicone breaks down at about 200c and much quicker above that temperature. The heaters likely run off DC which would be a bit of a headache in terms of setting up power supplies. I think these have a thermocouple installed with the pads which is great if you use them and control the temperatures individually, however, I think it might be unlikely that you will use them this way.

generally they have a thermistor not thermocouple which makes impossible to use with a rex100 temp controller and thermistor break down at 260v

Butte (PP Philippines)

generally they have a thermistor not thermocouple which makes impossible to use with a rex100 temp controller and thermistor break down at 260v

Possible with thermocouple so long as temperatures are below the setting of the thermistor, right?

possible but only time i seen with thermocouple is when I ordered custom made from China back in the day. Also you can get silicone that will work at very high temps. something we messed with back around 2012 making the liquid cooled 3d printer nozzles for printing PEEK, i think the silicone pads in big size are sold as barrel heaters

Geoff (PBI NTB)

This is not the best photo but this how it's Currently setup. It has shaft/ barrel support but the distance between that support and the end of the screw shaft is longer which in my limited assessment, if a belt were applied would pull the shaft downward. Assuming motor installed underneath. As in this photo we are using an inline coupling there is no downward load on the screw. (edited)

So, you want to eliminate the gearbox to use a belt or chain to drive the screw, why? Isn't the gearbox functional? Can't you use the gearbox with a motor driven by a VFD to raise the speed? For sure you lose more power with the gearbox, but that setup is the better to keep the alignment of the screw. I don't remember if there are only one or two conical bearings, if there are two, with the right pre-load you can attach a belt or chain without problems (two bearings means that the shaft is forced to follow its axis of rotation). However, the best way to reduce the radial load is to make a concave pulley, to have the belt running over the bearing. Think about a car wheel. The bearing sits something like in center of the wheel, so the radial load is centered on it. This is the reason, speaking about cars, that different rims with a different offset (like the "sporty" protruding ones) cause wear to bearings, since the wheel isn't centered on them. (Excuse me for my English, it isn't my mother language).

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

So, you want to eliminate the gearbox to use a belt or chain to drive the screw, why? Isn't the gearbox functional? Can't you use the gearbox with a motor driven by a VFD to raise the speed? For sure you lose more power with the gearbox, but that setup is the better to keep the alignment of the screw. I don't remember if there are only one or two conical bearings, if there are two, with the right pre-load you can attach a belt or chain without problems (two bearings means that the shaft is forced to follow its axis of rotation). However, the best way to reduce the radial load is to make a concave pulley, to have the belt running over the bearing. Think about a car wheel. The bearing sits something like in center of the wheel, so the radial load is centered on it. This is the reason, speaking about cars, that different rims with a different offset (like the "sporty" protruding ones) cause wear to bearings, since the wheel isn't centered on them. (Excuse me for my English, it isn't my mother language).

I don't want to eliminate the 10:1 gearbox if I don't have to. I just need a faster one. Currently I am running 140rpm on the screw. 19 mins to fill a single brick mould is not sustainable/efficient. If I cannot get a 5:1 WPA 100 gearbox to match the existing one you see there. Either I replace the 1400 rpm motor with a 2800rpm to reach 280rpm as suggested by PP. Or your suggestion; a 1400rpm with pulley or chain drive. It is running a VFD at 50hz now, are you saying I should run it above the rated frequency? (edited)

Am I crazy? Just bought this on eBay -- seemed too good to pass up, since it's fairly close by and one of our buildings has three-phase power and a space where we could put it. We may find ourselves suddenly able to consume a lot of shredded plastic soon. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285194842540

BOY 25D Injection Molding Machine | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BOY 25D Injection Molding Machine at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

3

Lachlan Aus

For the injection machine, should I have nozzle thread on the outside of inside of the chamber. I'm using 25Nominal bore pipe (26ID, 34OD), the precious plastic plans have said about using a 1" BSP tap (and the nozzle threads on the outside) but other plans people have used a M27 tap to connect a nozzle by threading it on the inside

FWIW, the injector I make I use a 32ID 40OD barrel, with a 1 1/4" union (female-female smooth thread) threaded and then welded on the outside of the barrel; that has a 1 1/4" end cap screwed inside and the end cap I machine to something similar to what @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug showed but with exterior thread, but directly the end cap to make a conical nozzle (and then bore out to 5.5mm the center)... this lets me use the square part of the end cap to tighten/remove the nozzle, and when the nozzle is removed, the fact that the union is bigger than the actual pllunger and ID of the tube allows complete removal of all plastic still left.. useful if having issues with blockages! In your case, a 1" union (female-female smooth thread) with a 1" end cap would be easiest IMHO

2

Geoff (PBI NTB)

I don't want to eliminate the 10:1 gearbox if I don't have to. I just need a faster one. Currently I am running 140rpm on the screw. 19 mins to fill a single brick mould is not sustainable/efficient. If I cannot get a 5:1 WPA 100 gearbox to match the existing one you see there. Either I replace the 1400 rpm motor with a 2800rpm to reach 280rpm as suggested by PP. Or your suggestion; a 1400rpm with pulley or chain drive. It is running a VFD at 50hz now, are you saying I should run it above the rated frequency? (edited)

Ok, I was missing the point. Excuse me but I'm better as a technician than as an English speaker...

You have to check the technical data of the gearbox. Usually they can be driven by a 2pole motor (so 2800~rpm), but sometime not. If it is ok, you can just raise the VFD frequency. At 100Hz you double the motor speed. Keep the boost (maximum) current at the nominal current of the motor to avoid problems. I don't know what VFD you have, but for example I'm using an Altivar on my hydraulic press, and there's a parameter to limit the maximum current. The VFD (at least, in my case) is reducing the frequency if the current raise over the set point, and it is useful to avoid motor overheating. In my case I'm using it to run the hydraulic pump at its max speed (150Hz with a 4pole motor, so ~4500rpm with small load) to have a fast injection, but when the mold is full the pressure (and thus the current) rise, and the frequency goes down.

Andymid

FWIW, the injector I make I use a 32ID 40OD barrel, with a 1 1/4" union (female-female smooth thread) threaded and then welded on the outside of the barrel; that has a 1 1/4" end cap screwed inside and the end cap I machine to something similar to what @Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug showed but with exterior thread, but directly the end cap to make a conical nozzle (and then bore out to 5.5mm the center)... this lets me use the square part of the end cap to tighten/remove the nozzle, and when the nozzle is removed, the fact that the union is bigger than the actual pllunger and ID of the tube allows complete removal of all plastic still left.. useful if having issues with blockages! In your case, a 1" union (female-female smooth thread) with a 1" end cap would be easiest IMHO

Thankyou so much for the info Andy!!!

Geoff (PBI NTB)

I don't want to eliminate the 10:1 gearbox if I don't have to. I just need a faster one. Currently I am running 140rpm on the screw. 19 mins to fill a single brick mould is not sustainable/efficient. If I cannot get a 5:1 WPA 100 gearbox to match the existing one you see there. Either I replace the 1400 rpm motor with a 2800rpm to reach 280rpm as suggested by PP. Or your suggestion; a 1400rpm with pulley or chain drive. It is running a VFD at 50hz now, are you saying I should run it above the rated frequency? (edited)

The problem is the Speed, your problem may be the screw, it’s too small or the nose that connect the extrusion machine to the mould, could you upload a photo plz, in my 55mm screw Extrution machine with 108rpm I used to make 17kg beams in only 25 minutes, now I have a beast and I make that in 30 seconds, but going back to the small Extrution machine, I’ve had change the nose and it went from 45-110minutes to 25 minutes with the same speed and screw.

Geoff (PBI NTB)

This is not the best photo but this how it's Currently setup. It has shaft/ barrel support but the distance between that support and the end of the screw shaft is longer which in my limited assessment, if a belt were applied would pull the shaft downward. Assuming motor installed underneath. As in this photo we are using an inline coupling there is no downward load on the screw. (edited)

Sometimes it’s just not only the speed, you have to take a look of how much material gets into the screw and if it gets correctly melted, cause if it faster you may need a higher temperature but sometimes it is not enough to get melt and get a smooth brick, beam or whatever you do

3:29 AM

Does anyone has experience with blades shredders? Mine used to be shred 3 tones in 10hs, Change the sieve, the motor now is 10hp it used to be 40hp, and now in shredding less than 400kg :,(, if someone can help I will really appreciate it

Oscar Cornejo

The problem is the Speed, your problem may be the screw, it’s too small or the nose that connect the extrusion machine to the mould, could you upload a photo plz, in my 55mm screw Extrution machine with 108rpm I used to make 17kg beams in only 25 minutes, now I have a beast and I make that in 30 seconds, but going back to the small Extrution machine, I’ve had change the nose and it went from 45-110minutes to 25 minutes with the same speed and screw.

We are using camlocs to attach moulds. This plastic was HDPE drums. Not lids.

JohnNephew

Am I crazy? Just bought this on eBay -- seemed too good to pass up, since it's fairly close by and one of our buildings has three-phase power and a space where we could put it. We may find ourselves suddenly able to consume a lot of shredded plastic soon. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285194842540

Incredible price!! What about the moulds? Also how many grams can inject?

Geoff (PBI NTB)

We are using camlocs to attach moulds. This plastic was HDPE drums. Not lids.

From my experience the plastic seems to cold, that may be the reason why is taking so much time, cause it needs a lot of pressure to fill all the mould (edited)

3:55 AM

If it gets much more melted it runs very smooth

Oscar Cornejo

Incredible price!! What about the moulds? Also how many grams can inject?

It's quite small for an industrial machine -- possibly 18 grams? One spec sheet I found online seems to suggest it depends on what screw is installed. It does seem like a great machine for us to learn and experiment with, and also connecting to the seller is fantastic. I am looking forward to visiting their shop and probably contracting them to do some manufacturing for our games business, since their other injection presses are as large as 300 tons. (The one we've bought is one of their smallest and just doesn't get used anymore.)

2

JohnNephew

Am I crazy? Just bought this on eBay -- seemed too good to pass up, since it's fairly close by and one of our buildings has three-phase power and a space where we could put it. We may find ourselves suddenly able to consume a lot of shredded plastic soon. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285194842540

There's a very similar machine in Watertown, WI that was rolled over: https://hgrinc.com/productDetail/Plastics/Used-Boy-Automatic-Injection-Molding-Machine/01232780001/

Hello guy, How to make the plastic wood bars do not bend after removing them from the mold?

I think they're put into the water tank while in the mold so they harden in the mold in the water

Yes, you need to make sure they cool down in the mould (in a water tank to speed up, or just in the open air). Then make sure they are stored flat : any plastic will tend to bend overtime, if under a certain stress (their own weight for example). And this will happens even more when still a bit hot.

1

Ufff, yep i have big water tank + Cooling toward but I watch some videos in YouTube that they unmold even when the plastic is hot but apparently they don’t bend

Oscar Cornejo

Ufff, yep i have big water tank + Cooling toward but I watch some videos in YouTube that they unmold even when the plastic is hot but apparently they don’t bend

they dont bend right away, they usually do only once they are fully cooled down. You can also put evenly distributed weight on them if they are still warm after taking them out of the mould

1

Thank you guys

1

I don't remember if I posted here the fumes extraction solution I found. However, I find that on eBay they sell heavy duty ducted fans from used HP servers, they have 12V 16.5A brusless motors (they need 12V-20A power supply and they comes with an ESC+Servo tester to be driven). They are sold as "electric turbocharger" or something like that. Those fan are powerful, I haven't data on the air mass they push, but it's huge. I put one of these along a 90mm PP tubing making two flanges from the test sheets I made last year to extract fumes from the machines, and it seems to work perfectly even at ¼ of the maximum speed. I put all the electronics in a plastic box on the wall, after changing its servo tester potentiometer to an industrial one I had at home to put it on the box cover (it's just a matter of removing the original one from the PCB and connecting cables for the external one to the PCB).

12:18 AM

https://www.ebay.it/itm/284753225712?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=94I_4aopQp2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=uQzuBpQmQU-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

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12:19 AM

Hope this can be useful for someone.

I found another shredder that can shred 20 pages. The same as the old shredder I found someone threw out.

1

8:28 AM

Which is exciting as I hope to hack these together.

Hello everyone, I found this interesting project. It's about a 3D printer with an extruder on the head, and according to them, it can use recycled material. Although they say it's open source, I can't find any files on the internet. What do you think about this? https://www.gingeradditive.com/

Any one else had emi issues whilst building the extrusion pro my pid controllers drop temp when the motor is started . Thanks

CJI-Eng

Any one else had emi issues whilst building the extrusion pro my pid controllers drop temp when the motor is started . Thanks

That might hint toward low electrical capacity.

I tried powering the heaters on a separate circuit the same thing happened

do you know the current draw of the heaters and motor?

I thinks it’s roughly 5kw

6:40 PM

I have a 40 amp breaker and proper 3 phase in my unit, been trying to get this for over a week now still scratching my head

Yeah that seems more than fine. Temp dropping when you're at operating temp and the motor running, does it level out and start to rise again? Once plastic is being conveyed though the machine, it absorbs and carries heat with it, so it could be just that.

6:45 PM

A test might be to run a bit slower at first, and see if the temps normalize.

Yea when I run with no plastic it was fine, it started to drop once plastic was being conveyed through the machine and mostly on the pid control closed to the hopper, I appreciate your fast reply

you should check the voltage at the heater output/inside your device

1:35 AM

I'm sure you have plenty of power to the outlet in your wall, but is the cord too small and adding resistance so you're losing voltage where the motor/heater is inside the extruder

I think with my extrusion pro the temps will drop when i start running but they do stabilize. No issues running at full speed. If the temps never come back up after running, then you might need a higher wattage for your heaters. On a side note, i checked out a larger industrial injection/extrusion machine the other day. It had 6 heater bands rated at 1kw each. Hot stuff!

I’m pretty sure I have right cable it’s 2.5 mm and rated for 20 amps, the heaters are 345 watt each, the cable built in the the heaters is smaller but I don’t know what size, it was just the controller closest to the hopper which was dropping which now makes sense as colder material is going in, when I made a beam earlier that pid had dropped down to about 160 degrees but the machine seemed to work okay. (edited)

7:16 PM

My machine uses a bosh Rexroth inverter I was only running about 15 hz what speed would be normal ? Thanks

CJI-Eng

I’m pretty sure I have right cable it’s 2.5 mm and rated for 20 amps, the heaters are 345 watt each, the cable built in the the heaters is smaller but I don’t know what size, it was just the controller closest to the hopper which was dropping which now makes sense as colder material is going in, when I made a beam earlier that pid had dropped down to about 160 degrees but the machine seemed to work okay. (edited)

If it drops too much and never hits the target temperature, you might need a higher wattage heater. Usually machines need something like 30-45 minutes for these temperatures to stabilize, but I've noticed my Temps drop a little when I start running and eventually they stabilize again.

CJI-Eng

My machine uses a bosh Rexroth inverter I was only running about 15 hz what speed would be normal ? Thanks

Ah, my weak spot. I'm not sure about this one. My output from my gearbox at full speed is something like 250rpm.

No worries thanks for the help

10:20 AM

Has anyone here ever used aluminium for beam molds, seems like a good option as it normally has a better surface finish than steel and may cool down faster ?

CJI-Eng

Has anyone here ever used aluminium for beam molds, seems like a good option as it normally has a better surface finish than steel and may cool down faster ?

Just a small extruded tile (10cm x 10cm x 3mm). Results are more clean but cost is a bit more expensive and you'll need to go thicker for the mould walls.

Hi everyone, does someone know what kind of wire and how to get the power supply connected to the PID controls for the injection molder, I was just going to use one cable and connect it to both PIDs but not sure how to have both of the PIDs be on one cable supply: here are images to explain what I mean, in the circuit diagram both are connected to the voltage supply, but how can I do that with a cord like this with only 1 live wire? These are the materials I am using. Thanks! And I am new to circuitry and electronic wiring so am greatly appreciative of the help

Hello guys, does anyone has a diagram of a crammer for the extrution machine ?

Ellie try these

11:17 PM

called wago 221 connectors can split you live wire up to 5 ways.

11:21 PM

You should be able to wire the pid controllers in series to save you running extra wires, as the don't require much power.

i got the perfect way to get a consistent stamping on our items.

5:12 AM

you get one of thes drill press stands. less than 20usd.

5:12 AM

mount your metal stamp in it

5:12 AM

heat the stamp with a blowtorch and press

5:13 AM

even perfect result every time

CJI-Eng

Ellie try these

Thanks so much! I ordered this and hopefully we can get the box up and running!

1

what is the best way to get smooth beams on extrusion pro

Does anyone have any expertise in motor couplings? I am not sure if I should bother spending much on a buna-n jaw coupling for my motor. If I could get away with doing some rigged rigid coupling (which I can fabricate) it would be a lot cheaper I just dont want to have the shredder stall and break the motor. Aka I dont know if the motor will just explode if its stalled or not.

4:39 AM

Ideally I would have something that only allows a certain maximum torque through and if its reached just spin like a brake. So that in the event of something metal entering the shredder it wouldnt wind up some coupling and cause damage to it.

Erosion

Does anyone have any expertise in motor couplings? I am not sure if I should bother spending much on a buna-n jaw coupling for my motor. If I could get away with doing some rigged rigid coupling (which I can fabricate) it would be a lot cheaper I just dont want to have the shredder stall and break the motor. Aka I dont know if the motor will just explode if its stalled or not.

If you want to protect your motor shaft, I think a chain coupling will be a good choice for you.

5:05 AM

I made my own custom shredder built around the motor I was 'given' if I send you a pic could you direct me to the size I might want?

5:06 AM

The motor is rated 385inlbs max

5:07 AM

also I am wondering if a coupler that slips when overtorqued exists

This type of flexible coupling is easier to install and typically less expensive compared to Buna-N jaw couplings.

Thats what I like to hear!

5:07 AM

Ill go looking around

@ErosionWhen we encounter over-torque situations, the motor current will increase and our machine will shut down directly. I am using a VFD to control the motor, which can maximize avoiding these issues.

My coworker really wants me to use a motor starter for it, its a single phase

1

5:14 AM

also I am having a hard time sourcing good prices for a chain coupling. I dont really know what site I should be looking in

5:14 AM

Grainger has a short listing and they're all really expensive

5:16 AM

for a L095 jaw type coupling set I am looking at around 50$

@ErosionWhat is the diameter of the drive shaft on your shredder?

Ive got a 5/8in on the motor and a 15mm on the shredder

and the diameter of your gearbox shaft?

5/8in

5:17 AM

5:18 AM

Here is the current situation

5:18 AM

Me and my coworker werent really thinking about what we were buying for the first coupler

5:18 AM

turns out its rated 25 in lbs

5:18 AM

5:19 AM

the lil plastic bit in there is what it got stuck on. I was not feeling confident in letting the motor rip the coupling apart. I have seen thhose jaws go flying

ok. I will PM you.

thanks, I got this far on my own kinda so

Hiyya crew, in the process of making a 1220mm x 2440mm sheet press machine! anyone seen one of these before or got any potential problems or tips before I dive in? any help or pointers are much appreciated

2

@Sharpie I'm just curious, what's the design power consumption of this large sheet press ?

@ShrednMelt_Xu so far was going to test with a pretty similar setup to sheetpress v4 with a different layout of heater elements to best fit the new hot plate sizes, however I am aware this design is pretty much maxing out a 32a 3ph supply (if anyone has any experience with the 1.5M sheetpress regards heating, max temps and even dispersion of temprature than would be great to know?) but also the building has a 64A 3ph supply so if needed more pirs and heater cartrages can be used (edited)

@Sharpie Since I was lazy, I didn't fully follow the official design for the Sheetpress machines I made before. Instead, I used entire 1000 x 1000 aluminum heating plates, with each plate having a power output of 7.5 kW.

2:04 AM

I simply didn't want to deal with connecting too many wires and drilling too many holes, as it would have been too tiring for me.

2:05 AM

ShrednMelt_Xu

@Sharpie Since I was lazy, I didn't fully follow the official design for the Sheetpress machines I made before. Instead, I used entire 1000 x 1000 aluminum heating plates, with each plate having a power output of 7.5 kW.

Do you have a source you can share for the heaters?

None

We will finally be getting an extruder pro that we ordered last summer. I am wondering if anyone has a process/device for taking the thread of extruded plastic and chopping it into pellets?

JohnNephew

We will finally be getting an extruder pro that we ordered last summer. I am wondering if anyone has a process/device for taking the thread of extruded plastic and chopping it into pellets?

https://youtu.be/gGjAa8ds8_k you could probably print this thing he made, just don’t use pla like he did! Lol

JohnSL - Random Products

Plastic Pellet Maker Part 7

1

Good morning. I want to build the Extruder Pro, but I don't know what engine specifications I can use. Could someone help me?

Could I use this motor?

Hi all! Would you think it is OK to sshred acrylic laser cut offcuts? They are about 6mm thick.

In theory, sure. In practice we found it gets pretty sticky and stuck in the screen and so forth. Also tends to crack/shatter so be sure to wear safety glasses and cover your hopper to keep flying bits inside. Acrylic is also very moisture sensitive, and stinks something awful when heated. Having said that, I am interested in recycling PMMA acrylic because it's rarely recycled and has promising applications (including making more sheets for laser cutting).

Andrés Romero

Could I use this motor?

Try with something at least 10times bigger. 250W isn't enoug!

1

3

Andrés Romero

Good morning. I want to build the Extruder Pro, but I don't know what engine specifications I can use. Could someone help me?

I don’t know where you are in the world but you can get the specs of the precious plastic website, and give some local motor suppliers a call with the spec eg. kw, rpm, nm they should help you find the correct motor and gear box

3D printed hopper is working well

3

So I designed a shredder without stationary blades

5:20 AM

Knowing I should definitely design stationary blades

5:21 AM

Knowingly ordered only the rotating blades

5:21 AM

Designed the side plates without stationary blades

5:21 AM

Assembled the shredder

5:22 AM

And all the material of course wedged itself between my blades and the spacers

5:22 AM

Which I think causes a great load to the motor and well it stalled and started going backwards lol

5:23 AM

Tomorrow's goal will be to design done stationary blades as an addon module hah

Erosion

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Don't do that please

Lmao

12:37 PM

2

12:37 PM

Magic

Hey yall, I have this motor starter I installed in order to trip if my motor goes overcurrent but it is not tripping once the stated amperage is reached. What could I be doing wrong? I have both live and neutral going through two of the 3 terminals. Maybe that is causing it to read half the effective current?

12:00 AM

Basically I have it set at 1.6a and my motor is more than happy to pull 2.8 amps without the starter being worried about it

12:00 AM

(constant btw not spikes)

12:01 AM

So unless I wasnt supposed to wire the neutral through there too I have no idea what could be wrong

Is this the appropriate place to seek troubleshooting advice for Precious Plastic derived machines, or is there another part of the channel for that?

???

I'm just as puzzled as you. Definitely not clicking on that link.

And they're gone?

Must have been spammers

Are there many people using the v4 extruder?

Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

Are there many people using the v4 extruder?

Yep

I've been using one for a while, and recently it's output has become inconsistent. It sort of pulses between high output and very low output.

7:47 AM

The screw appears to maintain the same RPM.

7:47 AM

We've tried varying temperature.

7:48 AM

Ambient temperatures probably went down by 10c or so since I was last using it, but the shreds are coming from the same bucket.

Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

Ambient temperatures probably went down by 10c or so since I was last using it, but the shreds are coming from the same bucket.

I'm gonna just toss a few bits of info out here for you to try before taking things apart. Check your heaters. Make sure they are all operating. Preheat your machine for at least 30 minutes using. If you have a nozzle, try removing it when the machine is hot so you can see if there's something jammed inside. When you are extruding, are you seeing anything in the extrusion that is not plastic? Metal pieces? When running your machine, does it sound like it always has or do you hear scraping sounds?

So, we definitely had the heaters going a long time while troubleshooting.

In the past I've had metal flakes like shredded steel bottlecaps that entered my plastic stock and it jammed up at the nozzle.

We saw a different (discoloured) plastic at one point.

What plastic are you extruding?

We also removed the nozzles and it looks sort of clean.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

What plastic are you extruding?

HDPE.

V4 extrusion, not extrusion pro?

Yes. With cosmetic changes.

OK cool, that one is a little easier to pull apart...although depending on your cosmetic changes. I think you might have something stuck inside your barrel/screw

Yeah. I feel like something ... maybe a contaminant has built up in there.

1:58 PM

The person doing the shredding was not removing labels.

1:59 PM

You can hear the slightest sound of stratching from the gearbox when the extruder is pushing plastic.

1:59 PM

But not when it's running on empty.

You can try extruding more plastic, I'm not sure what plastic is the least viscous for you but over here it's Aqua bottlecaps.

2:00 PM

Have you already extruded a bunch of plastic trying to clear it out?

We have. Kilograms.

Okok I won't ask you to try doing more of that

What I was thinking to try was to remove the barrel assembly heat it up in an oven and remove the screw.

In the past I've just removed the gearbox and motor and pulled it out

2:01 PM

This way you can use the heater from the machine itself

2:02 PM

If it's too difficult then your way works too

Ahhh.

2:03 PM

I've previously removed and replaced the gearbox so I can do that easily.

1

Mortar Art (Melb, AU)

I've previously removed and replaced the gearbox so I can do that easily.

Perfect. You'll get it apart in no time then. Just clean up the screw as best you can. I hope you find something. Id say shove a rod through the barrel too if you have one in case there's something stuck to the walls. Hopefully the screw will take out whatever is stopping the flow

Yeah.

Hi! I need to know if the 3.3 Shredder could work fine shreddering pet strapping. Sorry if I made some mistakes writing in english...

Hello. I watched the video on how to build the shredder. It looks very intimidating to me, but I want to take a welding class locally and then give this a try. I am wondering if anyone knows about the cost of building the shredder? Thank you

It depends a lot of you country

drewyorker

Hello. I watched the video on how to build the shredder. It looks very intimidating to me, but I want to take a welding class locally and then give this a try. I am wondering if anyone knows about the cost of building the shredder? Thank you

Something like 700-800usd where I live (Indonesia)

has anyone made the shredder auto reverse controller? for a single phase motor? i'd like to do this but would love some guidance on what components to use. especially the relay/contactor

Ventilation system with municipal water pipes. There can be put flexible pipes to precisely aim for the fumes if needed.

1

sodadiet

has anyone made the shredder auto reverse controller? for a single phase motor? i'd like to do this but would love some guidance on what components to use. especially the relay/contactor

I can only give general information on this, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Arduino, 2 contactors, 1 current sensor, some buttons, some indicator lights, emergency off. The single phase AC motors usually have a wiring diagram for running CW and CCW in the plastic cover. There's 6 posts and you only have two wires going in (Line and Neutral). You have to do a bit of wiring to make it work but in the end it'll be worth it.

1

11:04 AM

Just be sure to be clear with your questions. General questions get general answers.

(edited)

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Something like 700-800usd where I live (Indonesia)

oh man.... I'd pay someone 3x this to build one for me. I wonder how I might find someone

Hi folks, i have couple of questions regarding build of sheetpress: 1. what amount of force is used when pressing? 2. is cold press neccecary? 3. if i make table 1x1 meter can i make 1x1 sheets (cause i saw on pp project that working table is 1.25x.1.25m and molds are 1x1m - did i get that right, if i am what is a purpose?! 4. can i use alloy AlMq instead of aluminimum sheets because its really hard to find it in my country?! Thank You all

marjanzitnik

Ventilation system with municipal water pipes. There can be put flexible pipes to precisely aim for the fumes if needed.

Made the same thing, but with grey PP piping, last month. Seems your workspace is just a little bigger than mine!

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Made the same thing, but with grey PP piping, last month. Seems your workspace is just a little bigger than mine!

Cool, I have used orange ones because i got a good offer (they are usually twice expensive) and they told me they are more robust + looks nice with cables on the wall

Diameter is 20cm which was too big lol but ok, will be stronger probably. Wiring tomorrow.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I can only give general information on this, but it shouldn't be too difficult. Arduino, 2 contactors, 1 current sensor, some buttons, some indicator lights, emergency off. The single phase AC motors usually have a wiring diagram for running CW and CCW in the plastic cover. There's 6 posts and you only have two wires going in (Line and Neutral). You have to do a bit of wiring to make it work but in the end it'll be worth it.

yeah i saw the circuit diagram on github and its all 3 phase , but wasnt sure if i can get away with just using 1 contactor. i see there are some contactors that have normally open and normally closed terminals, but i dont want to over-complicate things

marjanzitnik

Cool, I have used orange ones because i got a good offer (they are usually twice expensive) and they told me they are more robust + looks nice with cables on the wall

Diameter is 20cm which was too big lol but ok, will be stronger probably. Wiring tomorrow.

I'm using 90mm ones, with a HP C7000 server fan as fume extractor. It's a ducted fan with a brushless motor, it needs a 12V-20A power supply and an ESC, but it pulls a lot of air.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I'm using 90mm ones, with a HP C7000 server fan as fume extractor. It's a ducted fan with a brushless motor, it needs a 12V-20A power supply and an ESC, but it pulls a lot of air.

1

I'm trying to use a jacketed mixer to stir my sand and plastic mixture. Looking for recommendations on the motor power of the gear motor. It can come with a 200W but I can get a 400.

1

aleksandarmasic92

Hi folks, i have couple of questions regarding build of sheetpress: 1. what amount of force is used when pressing? 2. is cold press neccecary? 3. if i make table 1x1 meter can i make 1x1 sheets (cause i saw on pp project that working table is 1.25x.1.25m and molds are 1x1m - did i get that right, if i am what is a purpose?! 4. can i use alloy AlMq instead of aluminimum sheets because its really hard to find it in my country?! Thank You all

anyone?

aleksandarmasic92

Hi folks, i have couple of questions regarding build of sheetpress: 1. what amount of force is used when pressing? 2. is cold press neccecary? 3. if i make table 1x1 meter can i make 1x1 sheets (cause i saw on pp project that working table is 1.25x.1.25m and molds are 1x1m - did i get that right, if i am what is a purpose?! 4. can i use alloy AlMq instead of aluminimum sheets because its really hard to find it in my country?! Thank You all

I'll give your questions a shot!!!! I hope this helps: 1. Force used? Design is for 8 ton jack is used but the spring is not designed for use at 8 tons. There is a limiter when you are pressing with the sheet press, so you have to keep an eye on the spring assembly when you are jacking the lower plate up, otherwise you will overload and bend the machine. According to the spring specifications, at 30% deflection it will achieve 1,250kg of pressure or 12266 Newtons. 2. Cold press is necessary if you want to make 8 sheets a day, otherwise you may be limited to one or two. 3. I'm not sure I follow. What I will say is that if you make a mould for 1m x 1m you will find your sheet is less than 1m x 1m due to shrinkage. Prepare for 2-3% shrinkage by upscaling your mould a little. 4. I don't know what AlMq is.

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I'll give your questions a shot!!!! I hope this helps: 1. Force used? Design is for 8 ton jack is used but the spring is not designed for use at 8 tons. There is a limiter when you are pressing with the sheet press, so you have to keep an eye on the spring assembly when you are jacking the lower plate up, otherwise you will overload and bend the machine. According to the spring specifications, at 30% deflection it will achieve 1,250kg of pressure or 12266 Newtons. 2. Cold press is necessary if you want to make 8 sheets a day, otherwise you may be limited to one or two. 3. I'm not sure I follow. What I will say is that if you make a mould for 1m x 1m you will find your sheet is less than 1m x 1m due to shrinkage. Prepare for 2-3% shrinkage by upscaling your mould a little. 4. I don't know what AlMq is.

Dear Ben thank you! AlMg - its alloy of aluminum and magnesium - my problem is that its not written what exact type of aluminum is used for machine (for example 6061) Thanks again, u re so kind

aleksandarmasic92

Dear Ben thank you! AlMg - its alloy of aluminum and magnesium - my problem is that its not written what exact type of aluminum is used for machine (for example 6061) Thanks again, u re so kind

Ah i see. Is this to replace the heating section of the machine?

9:26 AM

The heater cartridges are attached to a rather large steel plate in the machine.

9:28 AM

the BOM for the sheetpress calls for 10mm aluminium plate

yes - the aluminum plates 1.25x1.25m 10mm tickness - to use al mg instead of al

i dont see why that would be an issue but i'm not an expert on the matter

9:33 AM

You'll have to ask questions about the material to make sure it's suitable to be used in a sheet press. Likely ok, but again, im not sure.

thank you

For the injection machine with plunger, how tight does the tolerance need to be between plunger and barell ? I haven't successfully injected anything yet, but I'm getting alot of plastic along the plunger. Is the fit not good enough? I'm using (1" pipe - 27.3mm ID) for the Barell and (3/4" - 26.5mm for the plunger)

9:42 AM

9:43 AM

And the inside of Barell is coated in plastic all the way through

I am considering buying this hand crank shredder because I live in Brooklyn and space is limited and I may wish to use what little space I have for an extruder or other machine in the future. I am wondering if anyone thinks a hand cranked shredders is a BAD idea? https://preciousplasticnewyork.com/products/stainless-steel-hand-crank-shredder-unit

Hand Crank Shredder Unit.

Hand Crank Shredder Unit. Start Shredding right now Llatest version of Shredder, stainless steel hex shaft designed for allowing coupling effect at one ends. 5mm sieve included Complete Stainless Steel shredder. Teeth and fixed teeth are made from 304 stainless steel (5mm) with the remainder of fabrication, mild steel

You'll have one really strong arm

drewyorker

I am considering buying this hand crank shredder because I live in Brooklyn and space is limited and I may wish to use what little space I have for an extruder or other machine in the future. I am wondering if anyone thinks a hand cranked shredders is a BAD idea? https://preciousplasticnewyork.com/products/stainless-steel-hand-crank-shredder-unit

I had no Idea that existed

Alex_recycles and creates

I had no Idea that existed

I thought that website was official precious plastics site but it looks like its just a guy in NYC that builds machines

drewyorker

I thought that website was official precious plastics site but it looks like its just a guy in NYC that builds machines

Yeah

10:01 PM

Im from newyork

Alex_recycles and creates

Im from newyork

Oh Yeah? Nice I'm trying to figure out how to do all this with the small space of my Brooklyn apt.

10:02 PM

The hand crank seems like a good space saver. But I don't know how tough it will be

10:02 PM

DId you build your own shredder?

drewyorker

Oh Yeah? Nice I'm trying to figure out how to do all this with the small space of my Brooklyn apt.

I have that shredder

10:03 PM

You sent

10:04 PM

But I got mine for 600 dollars

10:04 PM

Not 650

Alex_recycles and creates

I have that shredder

oh. wait... I thought you said you had no idea it existed

drewyorker

oh. wait... I thought you said you had no idea it existed

I had no idea that the website existed

ohhhhh

10:05 PM

Where did you buy yours? ANd how do you feel about the hand crank?

I could have bought my shredder their but who knows

drewyorker

Where did you buy yours? ANd how do you feel about the hand crank?

I would say buy it if you want

10:05 PM

I started with a hand crank

10:05 PM

Then I switched to a motor

Alex_recycles and creates

Then I switched to a motor

DId you build or buy? I would love to know where you got it from, being someone also in NYC

I bought it from a market in the UK

10:06 PM

It was in the precious plastics website

oooh. Yeah none of the ones listed ship to NYC. I guess your person doesn't sell on there anymore (edited)

drewyorker

oooh. Yeah none of the ones listed ship to NYC. I guess your person doesn't sell on there anymore (edited)

Their is a problem with the website

oooh, thats good to know, maybe I should start messaging selelrs

10:07 PM

Do you have more than just the shredder? Cause I am also looking for an extruder

10:08 PM

The info you have provided so far is already super helpful, thank you

I do have an extruder but it’s not a precious plastics one

10:08 PM

I haven’t use it in a long time

Alex_recycles and creates

I do have an extruder but it’s not a precious plastics one

Do you mind if I ask you which one you have and if you found it locally?

I’ve been doing compression molding

You must have a lot of space

I don’t have a sheet press

10:10 PM

I use wooden molds for compression molding

I don't think I'm at that level yet.

10:10 PM

Trying to start with shredder and extruder

You don’t really need a shredder to start

10:11 PM

I started with just using scissors on HDPE jugs

What was your first machine?

10:12 PM

And do you know of local resources? Because the PP map thing is pretty much empty. I messaged the one community place on there and I don't think they are real

10:12 PM

Hard to get started in nyc i am finding

The first machine I used was a panini press

drewyorker

And do you know of local resources? Because the PP map thing is pretty much empty. I messaged the one community place on there and I don't think they are real

They have a work shop in NYC

Alex_recycles and creates

The first machine I used was a panini press

That's safe?

drewyorker

That's safe?

Yeah

10:13 PM

It’s not hot enough to burn the plastic

What you make with panini press? flat sheets?

drewyorker

What you make with panini press? flat sheets?

I use it to melt the HDPE then I lay it down on a wooden mold then I apply a down ward force to compress it

Alex_recycles and creates

I use it to melt the HDPE then I lay it down on a wooden mold then I apply a down ward force to compress it

A mold of what?

drewyorker

A mold of what?

I make wooden molds

10:15 PM

To start

I am so excited to learn all this I want to turn my plastic into raw material

10:17 PM

Its hard to know where to start

Your not really making raw material (edited)

10:17 PM

Your recycling

I guess I am using the term raw material wrong

I would not say it

but I mean like.... material that can be used to build

10:19 PM

Like a plastic board that can be a shelf, or a table, or a cutting board, whatever (edited)

I have made some shelves

10:19 PM

Before

What term would you use instead of raw material?

Alex_recycles and creates

I have made some shelves

What machines did you need for this?

A bottle jack press a panini press and wooden molds

DId you follow instructions anywhere?

10:21 PM

or you just super smart?

I used brothers make

10:23 PM

They have a YouTube channel

oh wow

10:24 PM

i just googled, this looks amazing

10:24 PM

I am going to dive in, thanks so much, wow

Yeah

10:27 PM

You can message them

10:27 PM

And they will respond

drewyorker

I am considering buying this hand crank shredder because I live in Brooklyn and space is limited and I may wish to use what little space I have for an extruder or other machine in the future. I am wondering if anyone thinks a hand cranked shredders is a BAD idea? https://preciousplasticnewyork.com/products/stainless-steel-hand-crank-shredder-unit

To form your own opinion : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1CbuPZRLOY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsKYVhCVPV0 My thoughts: I would like to build a hand cranked shredder. For smooth rotation movement I would use:

Two handles to use both arms, like a bike crank or a sailing winch
A 25 kg flywheel (recovered from a spinning bike)
Multiple reduction as follow:

A 1:5 to 1:6 gear ratio so that the flywheel turn 5 to 6 times faster than the hand crank A 5:1 gear ratio from the flywheel to a secondary shaft A 2:1 gear ratio from the secondary shaft to the shredder shaft Target rotation speed: Hand crank: 60 to 90 rpm Flywheel : 300 to 450 rpm with a 1:5 gear or 360 to 540 rpm with a 1:6 gear Secondary shaft: 60 to 108 rpm Shredder shaft: 30 to 54 rpm Start with a empty hopper, then add the plastic waste once you have reached a comfortable pace. A freewheel prevents the crank from being driven by the flywheel. Normally, spinning bike flywheels already have a sprocket or pulley including a freewheel. It is possible to add an electric assistance with an 18 volt screwdriver (heavy duty model with a brushless motor) via the secondary shaft. A freewheel on this shaft prevents the screwdriver from being driven from the shredder. Double handle winch: https://www.alamy.com/crewman-in-full-weather-gear-winch-grinding-aboard-ocean-racing-yacht-image68361345.html (edited)

nrigo

To form your own opinion : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1CbuPZRLOY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsKYVhCVPV0 My thoughts: I would like to build a hand cranked shredder. For smooth rotation movement I would use:

Two handles to use both arms, like a bike crank or a sailing winch
A 25 kg flywheel (recovered from a spinning bike)
Multiple reduction as follow:

A 1:5 to 1:6 gear ratio so that the flywheel turn 5 to 6 times faster than the hand crank A 5:1 gear ratio from the flywheel to a secondary shaft A 2:1 gear ratio from the secondary shaft to the shredder shaft Target rotation speed: Hand crank: 60 to 90 rpm Flywheel : 300 to 450 rpm with a 1:5 gear or 360 to 540 rpm with a 1:6 gear Secondary shaft: 60 to 108 rpm Shredder shaft: 30 to 54 rpm Start with a empty hopper, then add the plastic waste once you have reached a comfortable pace. A freewheel prevents the crank from being driven by the flywheel. Normally, spinning bike flywheels already have a sprocket or pulley including a freewheel. It is possible to add an electric assistance with an 18 volt screwdriver (heavy duty model with a brushless motor) via the secondary shaft. A freewheel on this shaft prevents the screwdriver from being driven from the shredder. Double handle winch: https://www.alamy.com/crewman-in-full-weather-gear-winch-grinding-aboard-ocean-racing-yacht-image68361345.html (edited)

Oh wow thank you so much for this.

10:41 PM

I'm going to follow it all when I get home from work

1

Hello everyone, I hope you're all doing well. I am currently in the process of constructing a sheet press and have a few inquiries I'd like to share with you. 1) Is there an automated alternative to the traditional bottle jack, perhaps a pneumatic version? If so, can you direct me to an updated source for more information? 2) I am also interested in learning about any available upgrades within the community, such as larger sheet presses or more efficient designs. If you have any suggestions or resources, please share your insights.

@sodadiet I sent you DM

Alex_recycles and creates

I use wooden molds for compression molding

Do you have any more info on your compression molding setup ?

9:16 AM

Would love to see a picture of it

Has anyone had experience with their injection chamber smoking when heating up the plastic? It smokes quite a lot before it even reaches melt temperature for the plastic

Lachlan Aus

Has anyone had experience with their injection chamber smoking when heating up the plastic? It smokes quite a lot before it even reaches melt temperature for the plastic

Yes. There can be a few reasons for this but I think it has to do with temperature rubber banding. The PID tries to reach a temperature and hold it, but if the thermocouple is too far from the heater it will overshoot the temperature and fall back down and take a while to stabilize. If your thermocouple is attached directly to your heater, then you likely will not have this problem, however, if you somehow have heaters that are different ratings you might have an issue. You can try playing around with your temperatures, set it to 100c and see what happens when starting up. It is worth nothing that everyone I know who runs injection machines do run them hot and they do smoke.

Thanks Ben! My setup is two same specced heater Bands with a K type thermocouple wedged between them with a hose clamp and nut

12:51 PM

12:54 PM

I might move to a different thermocouple. One of the stiff probe style ones, instead of the short threaded ones

Lachlan Aus

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Hmmm that's a bit more smoke than what I'd usually see. Have you tried using different plastic? Or is it all smoking like this? I'm wondering if there's some sort of contamination that's causing the problem or if it's just simply too hot. You might be OK with your TCs. I usually take off the threaded nut and shove the end of the TC between the bolt and the heater band.

Hello @Lachlan Aus, I just watched https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/plastic/safety and though it could help. Maybe you have already looked at that !

Lachlan Aus

Has anyone had experience with their injection chamber smoking when heating up the plastic? It smokes quite a lot before it even reaches melt temperature for the plastic

Yes, during the first tests I set the duty cycle to 100%. That overheated the tube (not too much the nozzle, since it has a bigger mass), you can see it because at the end of the first heating cycle after a cold start, temperatures readings from the thermocouple continue rising above the set temperature. If your controllers can control the duty cycle, try to reduce it until (for my experience on my injector) the temperature rise after the first heating cycle stops at around 10°C over the setpoint. If I remember well, on mine (3x 240W heater on the barrel, 275W for the nozzle) I set the duty cycle to 60% on the barrel and 80% on the nozzle. That slows the heating process by a little (it equals to reducing the average heating power), but helps to reduce heat peaks. I put the thermocouple on the barrel on an aluminium piece with the radius equal to the external pipe, kept in place with a pipe clamp and some conductive paste between them, so I'm reading the temperature between two heating elements instead of one or more of them. Different positioning obviously can vary the duty cycle needed for the injector for heating properly.

What do you gall think of this Extruder? Too good of a price to be true? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804001514245.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21US%20%24269.00%21US%20%24215.20%21%21%21%21%21%402101ea7116835095635634158ea70e%2112000029146232164%21btf&_t=pvid%3Ac0a59f57-3ff0-4f51-938d-82c65851ff77&afTraceInfo=1005004187828997__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1683509563&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

upgrades to the log splitter injection molder in progress. we have been struggling with the clamping mechanism pretty much since the beginning as we found that threading the mold to the barrel quickly wears out the thread. We tried a nut insert, but that slowed down the process. So taking inspiration from commercial machinery we came up with this design that will also allow us to add in the future ejection pins in the mold.

drewyorker

What do you gall think of this Extruder? Too good of a price to be true? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804001514245.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%21US%20%24269.00%21US%20%24215.20%21%21%21%21%21%402101ea7116835095635634158ea70e%2112000029146232164%21btf&_t=pvid%3Ac0a59f57-3ff0-4f51-938d-82c65851ff77&afTraceInfo=1005004187828997__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1683509563&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

This is a filament extruder and the extruder plus winder costs around 1000€. There are also filament extruders for around 200€ out there. It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to fill moulds, make beams or something like that, then you need a much larger machine. These tiny filament extruders work very slow, the one you linked creates 0,3-0,6m filament per minutes. So the material throughput is very low

Anyone know any machine builders in Seoul? I'd like to have some of the machines made.

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug I originally tried ABS that I think may have had some contaminants in it. The next test and the pic of smoke was from using clean pla that was supports from 3D printing. I'll experiment with lowering the temperatures, increasing slowly and seeing. The other possibility I guess is it might just be the left over from the contaminated ABS and may take some time to burn off? @Louis_f I hadn't read that page before. Thankyou for sharing ! @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna I'm using a rex c100, I have pid tuned it but will investigate the duty cycle. Thanks everyone!

1

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

This is a filament extruder and the extruder plus winder costs around 1000€. There are also filament extruders for around 200€ out there. It depends on what you want to do with it. If you want to fill moulds, make beams or something like that, then you need a much larger machine. These tiny filament extruders work very slow, the one you linked creates 0,3-0,6m filament per minutes. So the material throughput is very low

Oh that's really good to know, thanks for the information.

1:53 PM

hmmm

1:54 PM

Finding it hard to do this in my NYC apartment (edited)

Lachlan Aus

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug I originally tried ABS that I think may have had some contaminants in it. The next test and the pic of smoke was from using clean pla that was supports from 3D printing. I'll experiment with lowering the temperatures, increasing slowly and seeing. The other possibility I guess is it might just be the left over from the contaminated ABS and may take some time to burn off? @Louis_f I hadn't read that page before. Thankyou for sharing ! @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna I'm using a rex c100, I have pid tuned it but will investigate the duty cycle. Thanks everyone!

Ah, as far as I know everyone uses PP or HDPE (maybe LDPE too?) but not ABS for injection. Most workspaces don't use it because it's a bit hazardous for your health as it will off gas when it has melted.

I can comfirm the ABS fumes did NOT smell good at all haha

injection molding with abs does also work but you should indeed have an exhaust fan/filter or something like that

Lachlan Aus

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug I originally tried ABS that I think may have had some contaminants in it. The next test and the pic of smoke was from using clean pla that was supports from 3D printing. I'll experiment with lowering the temperatures, increasing slowly and seeing. The other possibility I guess is it might just be the left over from the contaminated ABS and may take some time to burn off? @Louis_f I hadn't read that page before. Thankyou for sharing ! @Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna I'm using a rex c100, I have pid tuned it but will investigate the duty cycle. Thanks everyone!

Seems that those controllers don't have the duty-cycle parameter. You can try to put a thin thermocouple under one of the heaters (better on the upper one), or at least to put some heat conductive compound under between the thermocouple and the barrel. If this doesn't solve the issue, you can try to connect the heater in series, to half the power output. If they can reach the temperature in series the only downside is that the warm-up becomes slower, but it's better than burning the plastic inside it.

Lachlan Aus

I can comfirm the ABS fumes did NOT smell good at all haha

It's not just a matter of smell, styrene is toxic and probably carcinogenic.

1

Hello Everyone, a client is asking if the beams presents any degradation with the time and also if it has some toxics like pesticides, I build my beams from plastic bags that cover organic bananas but I also would like to know if any one made that study, cause I will do it and it will be like 450 usd

10:42 PM

But I would love to know it in advance

10:43 PM

We use the beams in repleacement of Dragon Fruit Posts (edited)

it depends a lot on your source material - I wouldn't think any pesticides or other toxics are in the plastic you're making. Are the bananas treated with chemicals before they go into the bags? I wouldn't think so if they're organic unless that's only speaking to the treatment of the plants not the bananas themselves.

11:18 PM

Unless the bags have UV stabilizers or you're adding carbon black/iron oxide/wood fiber/etc the plastic will break down as all plastic will (even with additives to protect it)

It has 10% of rice husk

3:46 AM

Cause is wpc

Hi all, just returned from Costa Rica after 3 months as a marine plastics officer, using pp machines to set up a recycling centre. Now back in UK and trying to set up a mobile recycling education project. We have got hold of a shredder box 3.3 and now looking at motors and gearbox. Ideally want a system that can sometimes work off electric motor and can also detach from the motor to work manually - think hand crank or even bike. So a few questions that have probably been asked a thousand times before: 1. Which gearbox to get - looking at 25:1 worm gears - but can’t find one with 30mm output to attach to shredder. Or do I get a planetary box??? 2. Motor to fit the above gearbox!? Thinking 1.5 kw - what type of capacitor does it need? 3. Is 25:1 gearbox suitable for hand shredding as well as motor driven?? 4. How to connect things? The shredder to the gearbox (if sizes are different) and the motor/hand crank/bike to gearbox. We tried a random 67:1 torquemultiplier and it shredded the grub screws!! All help seriously welcome as my head is hurting!!!!

EcoChamps

Hi all, just returned from Costa Rica after 3 months as a marine plastics officer, using pp machines to set up a recycling centre. Now back in UK and trying to set up a mobile recycling education project. We have got hold of a shredder box 3.3 and now looking at motors and gearbox. Ideally want a system that can sometimes work off electric motor and can also detach from the motor to work manually - think hand crank or even bike. So a few questions that have probably been asked a thousand times before: 1. Which gearbox to get - looking at 25:1 worm gears - but can’t find one with 30mm output to attach to shredder. Or do I get a planetary box??? 2. Motor to fit the above gearbox!? Thinking 1.5 kw - what type of capacitor does it need? 3. Is 25:1 gearbox suitable for hand shredding as well as motor driven?? 4. How to connect things? The shredder to the gearbox (if sizes are different) and the motor/hand crank/bike to gearbox. We tried a random 67:1 torquemultiplier and it shredded the grub screws!! All help seriously welcome as my head is hurting!!!!

1. You can get a coupling that will resolve the issue of different shaft sizes. 2. Motors that mount directly to the gearbox are much better to work with. 1.5kw is enough but I'm not sure why you're asking about a capacitor. Maybe you meant to type capacity? 3. It should work. You might need to play with the crank length so you have adequate torque. 4. I suggest you find a motor/gearbox set that mates together. This way your focus will be on connecting gearbox output with shredder shaft. For hand cranking you might want to be able to remove the motor/gearbox set and mount a different gearbox/setup. It's been discussed previously how higher gear ratios tend to be weaker, so you would be better off with using two gearboxes if you need higher gear ratios. For example a 6:1 gearbox connected to a 10:1 gearbox would achieve the same as 60:1 although you might have an efficiency reduction. Alternatively you could go with a pulley system using v-belts (fan belts), although this isn't something I've really worked with.

EcoChamps

Hi all, just returned from Costa Rica after 3 months as a marine plastics officer, using pp machines to set up a recycling centre. Now back in UK and trying to set up a mobile recycling education project. We have got hold of a shredder box 3.3 and now looking at motors and gearbox. Ideally want a system that can sometimes work off electric motor and can also detach from the motor to work manually - think hand crank or even bike. So a few questions that have probably been asked a thousand times before: 1. Which gearbox to get - looking at 25:1 worm gears - but can’t find one with 30mm output to attach to shredder. Or do I get a planetary box??? 2. Motor to fit the above gearbox!? Thinking 1.5 kw - what type of capacitor does it need? 3. Is 25:1 gearbox suitable for hand shredding as well as motor driven?? 4. How to connect things? The shredder to the gearbox (if sizes are different) and the motor/hand crank/bike to gearbox. We tried a random 67:1 torquemultiplier and it shredded the grub screws!! All help seriously welcome as my head is hurting!!!!

Use a three phase motor with a VFD. Avoid capacitors, they cut the power output, and you need to have power on the shredder.

1

ShrednMelt_Xu

Click to see attachment 🖼️

What clamping system are you using currently for mold ?

Anyone out there using or know of a 4ft x 8ft/1.22m x 2.44m sheet press?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Anyone out there using or know of a 4ft x 8ft/1.22m x 2.44m sheet press?

We're testing a first version in our shop.

1

Hello, does anyone have experience with a large version of shredder pro, cause I have the normal shredder with 40hp and it’s not efficient at all

We just got our shredder pro this past week and boy howdy is it an major upgrade from the regular shredder, including being much quieter.

1

Any one else used the pro to make pellets before?

1

6:55 PM

My shredder is producing metal shavings. I think I did ok separating most of them but I'm sure I can build some kind of water separater machine to clean my plastics of metal shavings. Are there any designs out there? I'm planning on building something myself but not sure what geometries are good for separation using pumps and water flow

6:55 PM

Perhaps a sort of water cyclone separator

I would think whatever metal is in the way will cut itself out? How long have you been running your shredder?

Erosion

My shredder is producing metal shavings. I think I did ok separating most of them but I'm sure I can build some kind of water separater machine to clean my plastics of metal shavings. Are there any designs out there? I'm planning on building something myself but not sure what geometries are good for separation using pumps and water flow

@Erosion fix your shredder. I had a poorly built shredder box and it just got worse and worse over time. It shredded itseld and i ended up buying a new shredder box and am much happier. (edited)

I found out that one of my spacers had remaining sharp spots from the laser cutter. I fixed that and now it's not destroying itself

3:07 AM

But yes issue was the shredder so thanks:)

2

We are looking for a shredder that is quiet as possible. At the moment we're using a small industrial milling machine which can be quite noisy depending on thickness of the PP/HDPE input material. Do you have a comparisson? I could imagine that a machine that has a double shaft shredder is quieter than our milling machine with one fast turning rotor and stator knives. (edited)

Thinking about the SHR 3.3, Pro Shredder 2.0 or a desktop shredder (Recycleurs Fous, Sustainable Design Studio)

JohnNephew

We just got our shredder pro this past week and boy howdy is it an major upgrade from the regular shredder, including being much quieter.

How many kg could you shred with the machine? I can max shred between 600kg to 1 500kg with a 40hp motor

fplast

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Would love to see the clamping mechanism in closer detail

CJI-Eng

Any one else used the pro to make pellets before?

No but i want to learn more!

Oscar Cornejo

How many kg could you shred with the machine? I can max shred between 600kg to 1 500kg with a 40hp motor

Not sure yet...just got it this past week so it has been operating only a few days. Making a lot of progress on our backlog of HDPE bottles. The dual cutter approach is so much more efficient at grabbing bottles and pulling them through.

Florian_All_We_Shape

We are looking for a shredder that is quiet as possible. At the moment we're using a small industrial milling machine which can be quite noisy depending on thickness of the PP/HDPE input material. Do you have a comparisson? I could imagine that a machine that has a double shaft shredder is quieter than our milling machine with one fast turning rotor and stator knives. (edited)

I think rather than hunting for a quiet shredder you'd just accept that the machine is loud and contain it inside of a room, build sound baffles around it, add dynamat, etc

7:03 PM

most of the sound comes out the top, so making a cover/cap for it would definitely help

1:16 AM

That’s my shredder big motor (40hp) but not more production than using a (15hp) it has a shredding box of 40cm x 30cm

Oscar Cornejo

That’s my shredder big motor (40hp) but not more production than using a (15hp) it has a shredding box of 40cm x 30cm

I went to a shredding facility last friday. They use a 30kw (40hp) electric motor and say they achieve about 3 tons of shredded material per day. It's a wet shredding system and all the shredded plastics are put into some sort of centrifugal drier and sent out to some packing room.

1

4:11 AM

I don't know what size their shredder is exactly, perhaps larger than yours?

It has to be larger than mine#

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Thank you BenHow much is it in usd ? And how many kg process per hour? (edited)

Oscar Cornejo

Thank you BenHow much is it in usd ? And how many kg process per hour? (edited)

Usually these machines are rated per day. So if working with HDPE, it should run at 3tons per day. 3,000kg/8hours = 375kg/hour

2

8:12 AM

***if using PET they tend to run at a significantly slower pace. I think PET would work at about 125kg/hour with this machine.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Usually these machines are rated per day. So if working with HDPE, it should run at 3tons per day. 3,000kg/8hours = 375kg/hour

Great!! I realize that I need a monster one, cause I need 5-8 tons per day

Oscar Cornejo

Thank you BenHow much is it in usd ? And how many kg process per hour? (edited)

Oh sorry! I meant to respond with the price. So the one in the ad above is used so the price is about $1350usd. Buying a new one would cost about $2700usd. This is without the engine/motor and other things needed to run the machine.

1

Thanks bro

Oscar Cornejo

That’s my shredder big motor (40hp) but not more production than using a (15hp) it has a shredding box of 40cm x 30cm

Hey, I am looking at the shredder and imagining all the micro plastics in the air. Please be careful.

1

Inspired Plastics

Hey, I am looking at the shredder and imagining all the micro plastics in the air. Please be careful.

We do, we use 3m mask, if we talk about micro plastics the granulattor is the worst

5:05 PM

@Butte (PP Philippines) I found big hammer mill, so I’ll tying on Saturday, I’ll keep you update about if it can destroy hard plastics

waterppk

Unless the bags have UV stabilizers or you're adding carbon black/iron oxide/wood fiber/etc the plastic will break down as all plastic will (even with additives to protect it)

bananas are treated with usually a sulfur based gas, not a liquid residue and the gas is in the container it is shipped in. It is not a liquid residue. typically the container is opened at the receiver or during bug check in customs and the gas goes away.

Inspired Plastics

Hey, I am looking at the shredder and imagining all the micro plastics in the air. Please be careful.

i use a dust collector and 40 micron filter bag with mine. i typically get a couple handfuls of powder in the filter after a day of shred, but I am finding that it is likely a mix of plastic and calcium that is used as a filler in plastic. I tested it once with some muriatic acid and it reacted, confirming the calcium hypothesis.

1

2:50 AM

FYI, just for fun, I put some plastic thru the big wood chipper I built. PP plastics were shattered to smaller pieces, but the PET, HDPE just was thrown about 10 meter out the machine. It did pre shred film plastic but not enough to make it worth my time. Plastic film is definitely a growth area for research and development. I am thinking about putting a crammer on my v3 machine to force the stuff into the screw and densify it. In the industry, this is called densification.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

FYI, just for fun, I put some plastic thru the big wood chipper I built. PP plastics were shattered to smaller pieces, but the PET, HDPE just was thrown about 10 meter out the machine. It did pre shred film plastic but not enough to make it worth my time. Plastic film is definitely a growth area for research and development. I am thinking about putting a crammer on my v3 machine to force the stuff into the screw and densify it. In the industry, this is called densification.

I put a crammer and it works very well, I also shred film with that aghlomerator and it goes excelent

Hello, does anyone has experience with the use of gas instead of electricity for the resistance of the extrusion machine or the sheet press ? Cause in Peru electricity is very expensive

Oscar Cornejo

Hello, does anyone has experience with the use of gas instead of electricity for the resistance of the extrusion machine or the sheet press ? Cause in Peru electricity is very expensive

These guys have. Let me know if you struggle with contacting them and I'll connect you. https://instagram.com/sumpahsampah.id (edited)

Login • Instagram

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Oscar Cornejo

Hello, does anyone has experience with the use of gas instead of electricity for the resistance of the extrusion machine or the sheet press ? Cause in Peru electricity is very expensive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuhhYmbi_tY&t=9s

Precious Plastic

How to recycle PLASTIC with a bread oven | Robries

gokudo21

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuhhYmbi_tY&t=9s

Ah, Robries uses LPG ovens to produce their sheets. Basically melt the plastic in the oven and then move to cold press outside of the oven. Sumpah Sampah does have an extrusion machine that uses LPG and also a sheet press that uses LPG if im not mistaken.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

These guys have. Let me know if you struggle with contacting them and I'll connect you. https://instagram.com/sumpahsampah.id (edited)

Thank you bro, I’ll take a look and try to talk to them, I had to pay almost 10k usd from November to April just in electricity and I’m struggling with that

1

Oscar Cornejo

Thank you bro, I’ll take a look and try to talk to them, I had to pay almost 10k usd from November to April just in electricity and I’m struggling with that

Here this is an issue with the sheet press. Do you know the KW/h of the precious plastic style heat press

Hello everyone, this is my first post, sorry if at the wrong spot. I'm hoping to develop a shredder, extruder and injection machine for a pilot project in a low-income country where we can't import the machine. I have heard that the plans for these machines are open source and accessabile for the public, can anyone confirm this and kindly hint me where to find them? Thanks a lot!

JarvisSan

Here this is an issue with the sheet press. Do you know the KW/h of the precious plastic style heat press

15kw. So if running at 100% with no cycling, it would be equal to 15kw/h. 1kwh where I live is rp1,700 ($0.113usd). 15kwh would be rp25,500 ($1.70usd)

1

2:17 PM

If running 100% for an 8 hour workday.... Rp204,000 ($13.60usd) It's a figure you won't hit unless your thermocouples arent connected or have a broken heater near where the thermocouple is. But you won't be making anything useful if this happens.

1

D. ACTED

Hello everyone, this is my first post, sorry if at the wrong spot. I'm hoping to develop a shredder, extruder and injection machine for a pilot project in a low-income country where we can't import the machine. I have heard that the plans for these machines are open source and accessabile for the public, can anyone confirm this and kindly hint me where to find them? Thanks a lot!

Looks like the website buttons might not be working, here's a link to the pro machines: https://preciousplastic.com/solutions/machines/pro.html Basic ones: https://preciousplastic.com/solutions/machines/basic.html

Precious Plastic Pro Machines

Precious Plastic Pro Machines are perfect to start a recycling business and tackle the plastic waste problem. Discover the Shredder Pro, Extrusion Pro and Sheetpress machine.

Precious Plastic Basic Machines

The Basic machines are perfect to get started into plastic recycling and create educational workshops. These are the Shredder, Extrusion, Injection and Compression machine.

D. ACTED

Hello everyone, this is my first post, sorry if at the wrong spot. I'm hoping to develop a shredder, extruder and injection machine for a pilot project in a low-income country where we can't import the machine. I have heard that the plans for these machines are open source and accessabile for the public, can anyone confirm this and kindly hint me where to find them? Thanks a lot!

Just click the links on those pages, eg. "build the shredder": https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

15kw. So if running at 100% with no cycling, it would be equal to 15kw/h. 1kwh where I live is rp1,700 ($0.113usd). 15kwh would be rp25,500 ($1.70usd)

Thanks BEN.

Hey there! So, I just checked out this video about making sheets (https://youtu.be/GEqPjhllYTY) and it got me thinking. They're using a much thicker sheet for the hot press and carving it with a CNC for the resistors, which is cool and all. But I'm kinda scratching my head here. Are they using the same heating elements as in the original design? And if so, would those be able to heat up such a thick sheet evenly? Shot them an email with these questions but haven't heard back yet. Figured I'd ask you guys since I'm actually putting together my own sheet press setup right now. Any thoughts? Would really appreciate the help! Cheers!

Precious Plastic

Zero bubbles! But HOW?

Hi everyone, I’m Sem. I’m currently working on my graduation project at the Technical University in Delft where I’m challenged to create solutions to the problem of huge amounts of plastic waste from hospitals. After lots of research and developing different concepts I’m at the stage of developing a business plan and I'm currently choosing precious plastic machines to recycle mainly HDPE, LDPE and PET. If you have some experience with the above and are exited to help me with a quick 5 minute chat, that would be amazing!

Doruk Yıldırım

Hey there! So, I just checked out this video about making sheets (https://youtu.be/GEqPjhllYTY) and it got me thinking. They're using a much thicker sheet for the hot press and carving it with a CNC for the resistors, which is cool and all. But I'm kinda scratching my head here. Are they using the same heating elements as in the original design? And if so, would those be able to heat up such a thick sheet evenly? Shot them an email with these questions but haven't heard back yet. Figured I'd ask you guys since I'm actually putting together my own sheet press setup right now. Any thoughts? Would really appreciate the help! Cheers!

They have a ~50mm thick aluminum sheet on the top and bottom, they mention in the video they CNC holes for the heaters into the thick sheet. So the heat is kept even because there's so much aluminum there it takes a very long time to heat (edited)

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waterppk

They have a ~50mm thick aluminum sheet on the top and bottom, they mention in the video they CNC holes for the heaters into the thick sheet. So the heat is kept even because there's so much aluminum there it takes a very long time to heat (edited)

Thanks for the response! That makes sense, the thick aluminum sheet certainly would act as a great heat distributor. However, I'm still wondering if there would be a waiting period between sheets for the aluminum to reheat? What I'm really curious about now is the specific configuration of these CNC holes and heaters. Are these holes horizontally aligned to accommodate the heater cartridges, or have they been secured in some other way? Also, it crossed my mind that maybe they've opted for cartridges of a different size? Any light you could shed on this would be really helpful. Thanks again!

Doruk Yıldırım

Thanks for the response! That makes sense, the thick aluminum sheet certainly would act as a great heat distributor. However, I'm still wondering if there would be a waiting period between sheets for the aluminum to reheat? What I'm really curious about now is the specific configuration of these CNC holes and heaters. Are these holes horizontally aligned to accommodate the heater cartridges, or have they been secured in some other way? Also, it crossed my mind that maybe they've opted for cartridges of a different size? Any light you could shed on this would be really helpful. Thanks again!

Probably no need to worry about temperatures once it stabilizes. Once you're done with a sheet, you can move on to the next with no delay as the machine temperature should already be stable at target temperature. Temperature will drop when you start your new sheet but that's normal. If I'm not mistaken the original design calls for 25 heater elements for top heater and 25 for bottom heater. I'm also curious what configuration it is in, but it could follow the original pattern.

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Hello there, does anyone has experience with agglomerators ? Because I have a 40hp one but I just process 700kg in 9 hs

The HP doesn't matter if you don't have the machine to make use of the power. Have you tried measuring running draw/monitoring your electric meter to see how much power is actually consumed? A 40HP motor with a 10HP load is just a 10HP load

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Yesterday I was running the plastic lumber production line. And as crazy as it sounds, it really is a plastic lumber production line. It was the first full day I ran the line personally in quite a long time. As the operation has grown to have full time employees basically just shredding, and making lumber every day. Along the way I decided to get out my stopwatch and start noting the time of each operation. I noted that each board that is mde in a 1x2 inch steel tube and 4 feet long took 4 min, usually within a few seconds either side of that. I have a little piece of cooled lumber coated with some silicone spray inserted in the mold, and when that piece falls out, the mold is full. But I also observed that I am wasting a lot of plastic during mold changes. I also observed that I am losing one minute of production each mold change. Which translates from a theoretical 12 per hour to 15 per hour. Although in actuality, I averaged 10 per hour because of the time it took to heat the machine, and then the machine was idle during lunch break and it had to be turned off or the heat would melt plastic in the hopper.

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1:57 AM

So it has come time to either add in a second extrusion machine, and I suspect that it would require two persons maybe even three to operate. Yesterday there was two of us and we usually only had about a 30-45 second rest between boards, as we was also de-molding the cooled lumber, mixing the colors to get the customer spec, stacking the lumber, adding in cool water to the cooling tank about once a hour, etc. It was also very hot as we was working in 31c heat and high tropical monsoon humidity. One thing I have decided on adding but there is nothing in the PP Universe yet is a divider head for the machine. Basically this will allow one mold to be filled, then when full switched to the next mold and the the pressure can equalize in the mold for a small amount of time and hopefully minimize the blowback of hot plastic from the pressurized mold. It may also help with the sinkage issues.

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1:58 AM

A divider head with my setup will increase the output by a easy 20% without a increase in electricity, or labor costs. I also need a better quick change mold holder. I have been using the design released on the PP Universe page ever since it was out. But without using frequent sprays of silicone mold release spray, hot plastic will build up making removing the mold difficult. I have noticed that commercial machines use a sort of cam lock system to lock the mold in place, so I need to figure out how to add that in to my process. Maybe a sort of all in one lever? one lever to switch the flow and 1 lever for each mold to clamp it? It also needs to be easily made, maybe with waterjet parts or lathe turned parts AND have its own heater OR the ability to thaw the solid plastic in the valve with a torch before starting operation. As of now, I use a torch to thaw the plastic in my quick connect clamp before production and then the part is kept hot by the constant flowing hot plastic.

2:01 AM

I also have to design the system with as little added back pressure as I can. My present system can make 18 kilos per hour without any mold back pressure and that falls to 15 with a 4 foot mold and when I start getting into the bigger 6 foot molds the output can fall down to 8 or 9 kilo per hour.

Butte (PP Philippines)

A divider head with my setup will increase the output by a easy 20% without a increase in electricity, or labor costs. I also need a better quick change mold holder. I have been using the design released on the PP Universe page ever since it was out. But without using frequent sprays of silicone mold release spray, hot plastic will build up making removing the mold difficult. I have noticed that commercial machines use a sort of cam lock system to lock the mold in place, so I need to figure out how to add that in to my process. Maybe a sort of all in one lever? one lever to switch the flow and 1 lever for each mold to clamp it? It also needs to be easily made, maybe with waterjet parts or lathe turned parts AND have its own heater OR the ability to thaw the solid plastic in the valve with a torch before starting operation. As of now, I use a torch to thaw the plastic in my quick connect clamp before production and then the part is kept hot by the constant flowing hot plastic.

Try this out... you can thank me later. At the end of your extrusion machine, have a steel plate attached with a hole in the middle to allow plastic to flow out. For your mould, weld some tabs on the end you're attaching to the extrusion machine. Use vice grips to clamp the mould tabs to the steel plate. You need to quickly move the mould into your cooling tank or else you'll have plastic pushing out.

3:55 AM

i still need to use vice grips even with the PP quick change holder

Here is what I did in my extrution machine Butte

4:37 AM

I use a male and female conic union

thats a rotating valve?

4:38 AM

how many hp are you using there?

And after that there’s not need to have vice grips or something, yep I rotate the valve so I don’t waste time changing the molds

Butte (PP Philippines)

how many hp are you using there?

50 hp cause the extrusion machine is 130mm screw

oh big

4:39 AM

i likely will not be able to go beyond 12hp with my present electric supply

4:39 AM

100amp max at 220v

4:40 AM

single phase

Yes, it’s massive but you can make the same nose so you won’t lose time changing the molds

yes. that divider will increase production alone by 20% easily

Butte (PP Philippines)

i likely will not be able to go beyond 12hp with my present electric supply

That’s a big Issue

im looking at a 10ton per day shredder used with a diesel engine for 3500usd

Butte (PP Philippines)

yes. that divider will increase production alone by 20% easily

Def, but remember that it will be difficult to cold them up

it needs a good sand blast and some work,

4:42 AM

im running 3 molds 4 foot long for this order.

Butte (PP Philippines)

im looking at a 10ton per day shredder used with a diesel engine for 3500usd

I need that kind of shredder too, cause I have problem with flakes supply

likely will need to go up to 4 or 5 molds with the production increase

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Butte (PP Philippines)

likely will need to go up to 4 or 5 molds with the production increase

Exactly, I have like 23 molds cause I have problems with cooling down

but of course budget is issue... lol i just managed to get the bigger building

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4:43 AM

i have a lot of molds cause my guys keep blowing them up

Butte (PP Philippines)

but of course budget is issue... lol i just managed to get the bigger building

Step by step, I’m struggling with electricity

️

blow mold grade HDPE is hell on molds

Butte (PP Philippines)

blow mold grade HDPE is hell on molds

Yep, I have 4,5mm molds

i went up t0 6mm wall molds for my 2x4 boards and 6mm flat bar welded over 1.5mm galvanized tubing for the 1x2 and 2x2 molds

4:46 AM

here everything is a mix of inch and metric

4:46 AM

people want 2x4 lumber in metric lengths...loi

4:46 AM

and cut out metric parts from 4x8 foot sheets of metal

4:48 AM

so that divider valve is basically a half circle? like a round bar stock machined down? turn one way, laterial goes right and other way it goes left?

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4:48 AM

i was thinking waterjetting something that moves side to side but yours looks simpler

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

do you put any soft of screen to shield the electrical contact there? i would fear that my guys would accidently short that out with a mold or get electrocuted from careless handling of the mold

4:51 AM

this is why I shield everything inside a case,

4:57 AM

I do have another idea for a styro machine for making styrocrete.

4:58 AM

its kinda based on the aircrete harry invention with a spinning lawnmower blade, and things I learned from building wood chippers

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5:03 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwv10Y9GBiQ&t=284s&pp=ygUTc3R5cm9jcmV0ZSBzaHJlZGRlcg%3D%3D

Abundance Building Concepts

The ULTIMATE DIY Styrofoam Shredder!!

5:03 AM

basically like this but the centrifugal blower is on the bottom so it only needs one motor.

Oscar Cornejo

And after that there’s not need to have vice grips or something, yep I rotate the valve so I don’t waste time changing the molds

I miscalculated the production increse with the addition of a dividing valve... To calculate the percentage increase in production, we can use the following formula: Percentage Increase = ((New Value - Old Value) / Old Value) * 100 In this case, the old value is 96 pieces per 8 hours, and the new value is 120 pieces per 8 hours. Percentage Increase = ((120 - 96) / 96) * 100 Percentage Increase = (24 / 96) * 100 Percentage Increase = 0.25 * 100 Percentage Increase = 25% Therefore, the percentage increase in production is 25%.

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6:37 AM

that is like a free v3 extrusion machine

waterppk

Just click the links on those pages, eg. "build the shredder": https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder

Thanks a lot, much appriciated!

Butte (PP Philippines)

so that divider valve is basically a half circle? like a round bar stock machined down? turn one way, laterial goes right and other way it goes left?

Exactly when a mold is filled I just change the direction and the plastic flows, also helps a lot to release pressure so when you change the valve all the pressure goes to the other side and it’s more safe to take the mould out, it’s strictly necessary to add electric resistances(heaters) so when the plastic flows it don’t get to dense otherwise will be a big problem

️ it happened to be a dozens of times before.

Butte (PP Philippines)

I miscalculated the production increse with the addition of a dividing valve... To calculate the percentage increase in production, we can use the following formula: Percentage Increase = ((New Value - Old Value) / Old Value) * 100 In this case, the old value is 96 pieces per 8 hours, and the new value is 120 pieces per 8 hours. Percentage Increase = ((120 - 96) / 96) * 100 Percentage Increase = (24 / 96) * 100 Percentage Increase = 0.25 * 100 Percentage Increase = 25% Therefore, the percentage increase in production is 25%.

25% looks attractive!

My winch motor shredder is coming along. Ordered several basic couplers (slever and Jaw Couplers) to test out. Is there a recommended coupler type for long use on precious plastic shredders?

JarvisSan

My winch motor shredder is coming along. Ordered several basic couplers (slever and Jaw Couplers) to test out. Is there a recommended coupler type for long use on precious plastic shredders?

chain flex coupler. you also need to do a stress test with those motors. I use a IR thermometer and find that different motor brands will overheat at different times but they all will overheat. my best model motor takes 20 min, and the worst takes a mere 10 min to over heat. i ended up buying a lot of different motors from many suppliers to find the best one. Also you can disassemble that gearbox, remove the shaft, and have it machined to a proper 25mm or 1 inch round shaft with a key.

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Butte (PP Philippines)

chain flex coupler. you also need to do a stress test with those motors. I use a IR thermometer and find that different motor brands will overheat at different times but they all will overheat. my best model motor takes 20 min, and the worst takes a mere 10 min to over heat. i ended up buying a lot of different motors from many suppliers to find the best one. Also you can disassemble that gearbox, remove the shaft, and have it machined to a proper 25mm or 1 inch round shaft with a key.

Will give a IR test a try a have a thermal camera so should be enough. What temperature max do you class as over heating?

1:33 AM

Also have a slight worry that my Shreader shaft is an octagon shape. Do people recommend getting an adapter so the connecter circles at both end of the connector ?

JarvisSan

Will give a IR test a try a have a thermal camera so should be enough. What temperature max do you class as over heating?

you can pull the shaft and machine it round... no problem. it only takes a hex wrench, and a slip ring pliers to remove the retaining ring. its a bit messy inside the gearbox as it is packed with grease. I also usually add in additional grease and a dash of graphite powder when re-sealing it up.

1:36 AM

also some of those cheaper gearboc have poor alum casting and can crack.. again results will vary depending on brand, they all look the same but come from different china factory.

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Butte (PP Philippines)

also some of those cheaper gearboc have poor alum casting and can crack.. again results will vary depending on brand, they all look the same but come from different china factory.

This one a cheap winch so probably one of those.

1:38 AM

I seen some Michibishi motors on sale here in Japan but most are 200V and don't run on Japanese household 110V electricity

hard to tell, i bought expensive and it failed fast and cheap and it is shredding for years. basically get the highest wattage you can get. im using 2100 watts which is a little less than 3hp.

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1:41 AM

Mitsubishi motor are good, i got a bunch of them, although most are actually made in Thailand. Teco is also good, Taiwan made, joint venture with USA Westinghouse motors. But then you are really going up in prices.

JarvisSan

My winch motor shredder is coming along. Ordered several basic couplers (slever and Jaw Couplers) to test out. Is there a recommended coupler type for long use on precious plastic shredders?

You might consider trying to do something to keep the motor cool. Winches aren't designed to run for long periods of time. You probably already know this but just want to make sure you know.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

You might consider trying to do something to keep the motor cool. Winches aren't designed to run for long periods of time. You probably already know this but just want to make sure you know.

OK, what methods do you recommend for the cooling? (edited)

JarvisSan

OK, what methods do you recommend for the cooling? (edited)

Well, hopefully there's a fan built in but if not then you might need something to improve airflow. The larger AC motors have a fan and fins to improve heat disappation. You can try your system as it is and see what happens but be sure to keep an eye on the motor temperature

Hi, I'm a bit lost. I have 3d printers. I want to be able to shred the parts to ship them off for re-use. ATM I ship 80% air, as its mostly support structurs. What shreder should I look into and where can I find the plans? I tried to click on the machines ->basic -> build a Shredder but I only get a blank page.

Marko

Hi, I'm a bit lost. I have 3d printers. I want to be able to shred the parts to ship them off for re-use. ATM I ship 80% air, as its mostly support structurs. What shreder should I look into and where can I find the plans? I tried to click on the machines ->basic -> build a Shredder but I only get a blank page.

this is working here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder try clearing your browser cache I know they updated the website recently (/launching a private browser/etc so cookies and cache are wiped)

Precious Plastic Community

A series of tools for the Precious Plastic community to collaborate around the world. Connect, share and meet each other to tackle plastic waste.

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4:57 PM

If it's literally support structure this shredder will work for you, but if it's solid parts/prints you might be underwhelmed. We have a 1.5HP motor on a PP shredder and it stalls trying to grind solid PLA parts - anybody else able to shred 3D prints they could share? It shreds bottles/etc great it's just the 3D printed walls are too thick for our machine so we bought a 5 HP professional granulator from a surplus industrial machine company

is there a power limit for PP basic schredder?

5:10 PM

I do need for some solid parts also - we print pla, petg, abs, asa mostly

I'd wait and see if anyone has better results, our specific build could be the issue. We definitely needed more torque (lower RPM, more power input) to handle solid parts but we were also trying to shred pretty much fist size pieces of solid material

Time is not a problem, for what I need if it rotates 1 per min its fine, if its set it and forget it

5:20 PM

right now I have about a pallet of boxes to send for reuse and that took me 3 months to gather. Sollid parts can stay solid for what I need, just so I can send more dense boxes. But for industrial machied of 5k ish, I can send a whole lot of boxes

waterppk

If it's literally support structure this shredder will work for you, but if it's solid parts/prints you might be underwhelmed. We have a 1.5HP motor on a PP shredder and it stalls trying to grind solid PLA parts - anybody else able to shred 3D prints they could share? It shreds bottles/etc great it's just the 3D printed walls are too thick for our machine so we bought a 5 HP professional granulator from a surplus industrial machine company

btw, what happens to your PP machine? Does it get stuck or it trips the braker. At this power/torque values idk what happens if it gets stuck

we have a VFD on our motor so it trips into a fault mode

Any idea what happes if you dont have a VFD on it? (e.g. form posts on the discord)

You'd likely trip a breaker, so you'd want to make sure your wire was sized correctly (or oversized) and your breaker was sized appropriately to the motor

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9:47 PM

the other advantage to a VFD (or 3 phase motor with a reversing switch) is you can reverse the shredder to clear jams

9:47 PM

in our case we're using a VFD because it lets us use 120V AC single phase power and turn it into 240V AC 3 phase to run a 3 phase motor and support reversing the direction

ty for the info

vfd do the best job

Marko

Any idea what happes if you dont have a VFD on it? (e.g. form posts on the discord)

I have a circuit breaker installed on my machine, it trips when there's a jam. Too much torque will destroy the basic shredder, usually the shaft. Thick 3d printed parts should be cut down. I have a bandsaw I use for cutting thicc pieces

JarvisSan

OK, what methods do you recommend for the cooling? (edited)

they have fans but not enough flow of air. you could add in a 4 inch exhaust fan to it. i got one on my log splitter/injection molder that runs constantly cooling the motor between shots. the log splitters are the same motor in the hoists. depending on the brands some have a thermal protection switch. not easy to know unless you bought pretty much every brand on the local market and tried them like I did. I ended up finding that the best motor was not the most expensive hoist. it was not the cheapest but the second lowest cost. go figure.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I have a circuit breaker installed on my machine, it trips when there's a jam. Too much torque will destroy the basic shredder, usually the shaft. Thick 3d printed parts should be cut down. I have a bandsaw I use for cutting thicc pieces

i have yet to break a v3 shaft after I upgraded to the 32mm hex bar and 4140 steel. even running 12hp diesel engines on them. I HAVE broken my v4 granulator 1 inch shaft, but I think it was a bad batch as every broken shaft was from one bar of steel.

4:30 AM

diesel powered v3 12hp

4:30 AM

https://youtube.com/shorts/6QqW1_pjCYE?feature=share

Precious Plastic Philippines

#plasticrecycling #preciousplasticphilippines #innovativetechnologi...

Butte (PP Philippines)

i have yet to break a v3 shaft after I upgraded to the 32mm hex bar and 4140 steel. even running 12hp diesel engines on them. I HAVE broken my v4 granulator 1 inch shaft, but I think it was a bad batch as every broken shaft was from one bar of steel.

If you used a chain drive or some other system that doesn't slip, you'll break things. I promise.

7:08 AM

The ones I have seen break are using couplings from gearbox output to blade shaft. When people drill through the shaft, it makes a weak spot and breaks there. I've seen the whole section break off next to the hex section as well.

I never drill thru the shaft. I use hardened steel key, and set screws. usually if something is that tough it will either slip the belt or kill the engine before anything breaks

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7:16 AM

its belt from motor to a jack shaft, reduces the rpm, thru a jack shaft to the chain and sprockets

7:17 AM

new machine project here. Its for bio-waste but gonna drop some plastic bottles in it just for grins

Butte (PP Philippines)

I never drill thru the shaft. I use hardened steel key, and set screws. usually if something is that tough it will either slip the belt or kill the engine before anything breaks

The drum has a big diameter. Is it a shredder with knifes or hammers ? How do you value wood chips in Philippines ?

nrigo

The drum has a big diameter. Is it a shredder with knifes or hammers ? How do you value wood chips in Philippines ?

government orders. the landfills no longer are accepting biowaste so the local governments have to shred it and compost. this particular unit however is for a city tree trimming crew, I do have another smaller chipper for that in the shop going for a composing operation. this unit has 4 cutter blades like a mandoin cutter, then 2 Deere mower blades, then a centrifugal blower. the combinaton of the deere mower blades and centrifugal blower should make a ton of air flow and suction.

Butte (PP Philippines)

i have yet to break a v3 shaft after I upgraded to the 32mm hex bar and 4140 steel. even running 12hp diesel engines on them. I HAVE broken my v4 granulator 1 inch shaft, but I think it was a bad batch as every broken shaft was from one bar of steel.

How many kg per hour did the 12hp process?

Oscar Cornejo

How many kg per hour did the 12hp process?

never timed it, it will shred a 1 liter hdpe bleach bottle in a few seconds, but occasionally it will kinda jam up if the belt not adjusted right.

10:16 AM

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VU1pyNdxaYQ update on the dualshaft v3

Precious Plastic Philippines

Revolutionizing Plastic Recycling: Introducing the New Prototype Sh...

10:17 AM

10:20 AM

first unit has no anvil to clear the material from between the blades. not going to give it high hopes, second unit is the CAD drawing with the re-added parts. Upsized the shafting to 32mm, the long bolts that tie everything together, was originally thread rod, I upped it to 1/2 inch x 7 inch structural steel bolt. much nicer to assemble.

10:21 AM

second set of parts ordered from laser, will get that next week. client is paying for the R&D

I've got a commercial granulator, 5HP is rated for 200lbs/hour. It's a 140RPM rotor with a 10" x 16" cutting area

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How do , I’ve just taken over a workshop that’s working with precious plastics. The place had been left derelict for a few months I think, had to jam free the shredder. The injection mold looks like it still has material in it, what’s the best way of purging it ?

Hi, we'll build an extruder, upon buying a motor the hardware here offers aluminum or copper motor. what do you guys recommend Aluminum motors or Copper Motors? It's only for a school project but the price difference is high.

reSource Precious Plastics

How do , I’ve just taken over a workshop that’s working with precious plastics. The place had been left derelict for a few months I think, had to jam free the shredder. The injection mold looks like it still has material in it, what’s the best way of purging it ?

The injection mold has plastic in it? Or the injection machine? If it's the machine, turn it on and let it heat up. Things should start moving after you give it some time. If someone stuck PET in the machine then you might have to fidget with it a bit more

chichay

Hi, we'll build an extruder, upon buying a motor the hardware here offers aluminum or copper motor. what do you guys recommend Aluminum motors or Copper Motors? It's only for a school project but the price difference is high.

Interesting question. I haven't seen anyone ask this before. All I know is copper is more efficient and aluminum is cheaper. But if you're on a tight budget, the aluminum should work fine for you. Aluminum has a higher resistance than copper so it's likely it will generate more heat. Can you share what you're considering? There might be other specifications that might need some attention.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Interesting question. I haven't seen anyone ask this before. All I know is copper is more efficient and aluminum is cheaper. But if you're on a tight budget, the aluminum should work fine for you. Aluminum has a higher resistance than copper so it's likely it will generate more heat. Can you share what you're considering? There might be other specifications that might need some attention.

Thank you, but we've already bought the aluminum motor since we're tight on a budget. Do you have recommendations to prevent it from overheating?

chichay

Thank you, but we've already bought the aluminum motor since we're tight on a budget. Do you have recommendations to prevent it from overheating?

Well, it'll probably be ok. If it's a proper motor it'll have a fan on one end and the body will have ribs so theres more surface area for cooling. Keep an eye on temperatures. It might be able to handle running 8 hours straight or it might not, all depends on load and cooling capabilities.

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reSource Precious Plastics

How do , I’ve just taken over a workshop that’s working with precious plastics. The place had been left derelict for a few months I think, had to jam free the shredder. The injection mold looks like it still has material in it, what’s the best way of purging it ?

Turn it on (the injection machine) let it heat up push the plastic out. If it is a mould that has plastic in it. probably separate the mould. if too difficult cold, heat in the oven then use gloves to handle and separate.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Looking forward to seeing this in action. Are we expecting higher output?

higher output, lower cost than the pro model as the local market is very price sensitive. 1200usd is the median cost for a plastic shredder locally made and it is a very low quality build. think angle grinder, booger welds, aluminum motor, and 3mm thick angle bar. this dual shaft machine should bring at the same cost a much better quality machine for relatively the same materials cost as the competition. (edited)

Butte (PP Philippines)

higher output, lower cost than the pro model as the local market is very price sensitive. 1200usd is the median cost for a plastic shredder locally made and it is a very low quality build. think angle grinder, booger welds, aluminum motor, and 3mm thick angle bar. this dual shaft machine should bring at the same cost a much better quality machine for relatively the same materials cost as the competition. (edited)

What if you used the blade shape from the pro version in this design?

i can mess with that

8:52 AM

ill try it later after today. going to the shop to feed the guard dogs right now

shredder pro blades are nearly the same diameter as the v3

there ya go

32mm_double_shaft_upgrade_blade.dxf

166.63 KB

Hey guys, I’ve recently just built an 8x4 foot sheet press but am having problems with the heater cartridges blowing. Is there any one who could offer me some advice?

waterppk

this is working here: https://community.preciousplastic.com/academy/build/shredder try clearing your browser cache I know they updated the website recently (/launching a private browser/etc so cookies and cache are wiped)

I, too, am only getting a blank page from any of the PP Community download pages/info/build pack pages, using both Firefox AND Edge- two different browsers return blank pages. Ideas? Have you tested those links, making sure you aren't getting browser-cached data?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

I, too, am only getting a blank page from any of the PP Community download pages/info/build pack pages, using both Firefox AND Edge- two different browsers return blank pages. Ideas? Have you tested those links, making sure you aren't getting browser-cached data?

Post over in #website-problems for help, the site has had some issues lately

Hello, I'm new here, I'm interested about plastic recycling because I've been living in an African country for 8 months now and I can see first hand how big of an issue it is. From my observations, the main problem here are PET bottles waste and it seems there is no precious plastic solution for PET yet. I've just come across a video showcasing a machine, a rather small one, that transforms pet flakes into polyester fibers and was instantly blown away. You can find this on YouTube looking for "Easy wool machine". Do you guys know if the guys at Precious Plastic could come up with a similar machine ? That would definitely be a game changer. All comments and ideas welcome! Thx (edited)

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stroller

Hello, I'm new here, I'm interested about plastic recycling because I've been living in an African country for 8 months now and I can see first hand how big of an issue it is. From my observations, the main problem here are PET bottles waste and it seems there is no precious plastic solution for PET yet. I've just come across a video showcasing a machine, a rather small one, that transforms pet flakes into polyester fibers and was instantly blown away. You can find this on YouTube looking for "Easy wool machine". Do you guys know if the guys at Precious Plastic could come up with a similar machine ? That would definitely be a game changer. All comments and ideas welcome! Thx (edited)

Do you have an application for the blown PET fibers? (typically used for blankets, pillows, etc) I don't think you can use it as house insulation as it's flammable but I don't know for sure

waterppk

Do you have an application for the blown PET fibers? (typically used for blankets, pillows, etc) I don't think you can use it as house insulation as it's flammable but I don't know for sure

Indeed, you can do blankets, pillows, furniture filling, etc... I think any object that uses PET bottles to create something durable is good... The main thing is having the machine to be able to process the plastic waste ! (edited)

stroller

Hello, I'm new here, I'm interested about plastic recycling because I've been living in an African country for 8 months now and I can see first hand how big of an issue it is. From my observations, the main problem here are PET bottles waste and it seems there is no precious plastic solution for PET yet. I've just come across a video showcasing a machine, a rather small one, that transforms pet flakes into polyester fibers and was instantly blown away. You can find this on YouTube looking for "Easy wool machine". Do you guys know if the guys at Precious Plastic could come up with a similar machine ? That would definitely be a game changer. All comments and ideas welcome! Thx (edited)

Keep in mind: "the guys at Precious Plastics" are just folks like you and me, only with dedication, and experience: if you want to see a group-sourced version of that machine, lean into it, develop a basic understanding of what will be necessary, THEN tap expertise within the community for assistance you may need. Nobody better to bring the energy to get that ball rolling and see it up the hill than you.

1

the basic power pack design for all our machines. 5hp motor. 3 inch puley b type double belt to a jack shaft, this one is 12 inch pulley, that shaft turns in this case a 13 tooth type 50 sprocket to a 50 tooth sprocket on the double shaft shredder. because garboxes locally are expensive and the cheaper units are delicate, I gear it down like this. Same as how the rice mills do it. this particular frame is 1.5mm wall galvanized tubing, epoxy primer, then rubber urethane paint. I can connect a extrusion pro screw and barrel to this design as well.

1

5:42 AM

i would kinda like to do a bolt together cnc bent design or some sort of laser cut steel bits to attach angle bars to, but that is for another day

first production run of a over-molded part today. In cooperation with another local company that makes products from recycled plastic, we are making the feet of their chairs from recycled plastic as they do not have a machine capable of over molding. log splitter injection molder, with a 3 ton scaffold screw jack as the mold clamp

1

Noon

Hey guys, I’ve recently just built an 8x4 foot sheet press but am having problems with the heater cartridges blowing. Is there any one who could offer me some advice?

What voltage do they have ? Did you measure ? Does the voltage correspond to your heaters ?

sonik

What voltage do they have ? Did you measure ? Does the voltage correspond to your heaters ?

likely low quality design, either pushing the wattage more than what it should be or going cheap on the mica insulation. alternately the case was crimped wrong and it crushed the wires between the insulation, same result. I stopped buying from online China heater sellers because of this, and get them custom made locally. The cost difference when counting shipping and customs was negligable, and I can actually have a person at the factory to hold account if I get a bad batch. you may also want to look for a local industrial equipment supplier with a slightly more expensive but higher grade heater. Unfortunately I can not re-sell from my local manufacturer as the shipping costs to export are extremely high. (100usd per kilo)

1

so it works... but the frame made from 2 inch 1.5mm wall tubular steel is nowhere near strong enough. it started flexing under the load and the chain would jump the sprocket. I shredded about 2 kilo per min with it using bottle caps. However it did get quite hot when getting fed heavily. Building a new frame now from 2x2 inch 1/4 inch thick angle bar

9:08 AM

same design as the 12hp diesel shredder

9:09 AM

it jammed only 2 times and it was mostly due to the sprocket and chain not staying in place rather than stalling the motor.

9:10 AM

I removed the two gears that tied both shaft together and now only one shaft is driven. still works fine

Hi! I have a direct injection machine from one of the older versions, but it have always worked great. The last few days I have been having problems with pieces of plastic not melting and air bubble at the same time.. The machine can work great one moment and then not on the next. I am not changing anything between the two rounds, but some of the plastic just doesn’t melt. To trouble shoot I have turned the temperature up and down to see if it makes any difference. I think it is wierd that it both doesn’t melt all the plastic but also looks like it “boils” because I see air bubbles. I have also cleaned the inside of the pipe with a cobber round brush. Have anyone experienced this before and not how to fix it. Se attached pictures for the two textures and what version of the infection machine I use. (edited)

Do you have a way to measure temperature at each heater to make sure they're all working? Is your plastic dry? (IE: the boiling/bubbles you're seeing might be water boiling out of the material you're feeding in)

Thank you @waterppk ! I came up with another theory after I wrote the original message. And I think it might be because the plastic granule it is fine. I’ve had this problem before with other fine granulats, i never have this problem with corse granulates. Do you have any experience with this? The plastic is bone dry, and I have used half of the container I had it in before the problem started to occur. Interesting idea with the heating elements! There are two thermostats each connected to 3 heating elements. So one of the heating elements might be out. I will report back Saturday when I go in to the workshop again ✌

Si Mo Ne

Thank you @waterppk ! I came up with another theory after I wrote the original message. And I think it might be because the plastic granule it is fine. I’ve had this problem before with other fine granulats, i never have this problem with corse granulates. Do you have any experience with this? The plastic is bone dry, and I have used half of the container I had it in before the problem started to occur. Interesting idea with the heating elements! There are two thermostats each connected to 3 heating elements. So one of the heating elements might be out. I will report back Saturday when I go in to the workshop again ✌

Maybe the air isn't escaping the injection molder when you have finer plastic, you could try blocking the output and compressing the plastic to try to push the air to the top, then remove the block and inject?

Butte (PP Philippines)

so it works... but the frame made from 2 inch 1.5mm wall tubular steel is nowhere near strong enough. it started flexing under the load and the chain would jump the sprocket. I shredded about 2 kilo per min with it using bottle caps. However it did get quite hot when getting fed heavily. Building a new frame now from 2x2 inch 1/4 inch thick angle bar

Friday morning here, new frame 2x2x1/4 inch angle bar getting welded together. Hopefully the boys work fast enough and get the upgraded frame running this afternoon. Adding in the scraper to the back side of the blades with two new side plates. I got another batch in the pipeline at the laser shop with some gears cut from 12mm ms plate. I am still considering somehow putting a sort of box or partition to hold the gears. Still a idea that needs CAD. Meanwhile this morning, running to the store to get caster wheels for the new frame. This could be our most successful design yet.

1

9:05 AM

3pm here, frame still lacking the holes to bolt on the motor, pulleys, and shredder blades. maybe Monday its done

Noon

Hey guys, I’ve recently just built an 8x4 foot sheet press but am having problems with the heater cartridges blowing. Is there any one who could offer me some advice?

Hey, I am building 1x1 meter sheet press too but wondering if I should scale it up. Did you keep the same design when increasing the size of the shert press? Any suggestions would go a long way!!

Doruk Yıldırım

Hey, I am building 1x1 meter sheet press too but wondering if I should scale it up. Did you keep the same design when increasing the size of the shert press? Any suggestions would go a long way!!

The 1x1m version is currently still the more stable option. Anything beyond comes with penalties and compromises.

Butte (PP Philippines)

Click to see attachment 🖼️

What are those sprockets on the 'near' end of the shredder about?

i tried using them as gears in a quick and dirty method. did not work. i got proper gears coming for third prototype

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

i tried using them as gears in a quick and dirty method. did not work. i got proper gears coming for third prototype

If you have the possibility, harden the teeth of the gears. Normally they come in C45 (AISI1045) steel, it's good to be induction hardened on the surface. I made it on mine, they are working very well without any wear.

waterppk

Maybe the air isn't escaping the injection molder when you have finer plastic, you could try blocking the output and compressing the plastic to try to push the air to the top, then remove the block and inject?

Hi! I don’t know how much of an expert you are in this specific topic but now I am just going to share all my findings with you. I tested all the heating elements this morning, and they all are all very hot. I also don’t think it’s a pressure issue. I normally compress the plastic a lot when it’s in the tube. And I did compres it a lot this morning as well when I tested, and it didn’t make any difference. (See photo of black plastic) I also did a test on a plastic, where the granule it is quite course. And here it melts perfectly. (See photo of green plastic) Does these things mean anything to you?

1

Si Mo Ne

Hi! I don’t know how much of an expert you are in this specific topic but now I am just going to share all my findings with you. I tested all the heating elements this morning, and they all are all very hot. I also don’t think it’s a pressure issue. I normally compress the plastic a lot when it’s in the tube. And I did compres it a lot this morning as well when I tested, and it didn’t make any difference. (See photo of black plastic) I also did a test on a plastic, where the granule it is quite course. And here it melts perfectly. (See photo of green plastic) Does these things mean anything to you?

Well there's only a few variables:

If the temperature is set the same and nothing on the heaters has changed that's constant
Your injection pressure should be about the same
Your volume per charge (IE: kinda density) is changing substantially if your dark plastic is much finer, I would expect longer heating times the more plastic there is (closer together). The catch is the heating would also be more efficient since there's less air in there between the plastic chunks
You said your material is "bone dry" but how's the possible if you're halfway through the bag? The plastic absorbs moisture from the air. Do you have an oven or way to dry a plastic charge of the finer plastic to absolutely make sure it's really dry?

(edited)

Could also be that the plastic has changed in your bag, if the grind changed the material itself could be different I know people here have talked about different additives that change the properties

I'm designing a compression mold for large billets, and along the way am seeking understanding of how a sheet press works. The sheet press is a sandwich, of sorts: top press face, bottom press face, and in between a constraining frame "mold". Open, the frame is placed on the bottom press face, filled with plastic shred, then pressure applied via hydraulic cylinder while heating. I presume the mold is OVER FILLED, so that applied pressure encourages voids to escape out the sides as the squeeze is applied. Here's what I don't get: once both faces are in contact with the mold frame, no more pressure can be applied, can it? Yet, in a recent PP video from Costa Rica, part of their formula for bubble-free sheets involves interval cranking of the hydraulic press- which seems impossible, if the frame mold is already in contact. What am I missing?

Has anyone contrived a compression mold or sheet press with pressure applied entirely via screws or a screw-spring assembly?

Butte (PP Philippines)

3pm here, frame still lacking the holes to bolt on the motor, pulleys, and shredder blades. maybe Monday its done

it works, but need to change the blade profile to the pro shredder design. it generates way too much heat and after 30 kilos or so, it starts to melt plastic from friction.

sonik

What voltage do they have ? Did you measure ? Does the voltage correspond to your heaters ?

Hey thanks for getting back to me! Didn’t drill out with a ream which meant my tolerance was well off. Re made the blocks and working perfectly

1

Doruk Yıldırım

Hey, I am building 1x1 meter sheet press too but wondering if I should scale it up. Did you keep the same design when increasing the size of the shert press? Any suggestions would go a long way!!

Hey Doruk, we made minor changes like beefing up the box section and slightly changing the layout of the laser cut grid. Definitely would have done a few things differently in hindsight but seems to be working. We don’t out sheets to be perfectly flat which really helps

5:35 PM

I’ll do a breakdown of our build when I’ve got a sec so people can see what we done and learn from it

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

it works, but need to change the blade profile to the pro shredder design. it generates way too much heat and after 30 kilos or so, it starts to melt plastic from friction.

update. changed to the 2 tooth shredder blades, and its working better. awaiting gears that will make both axles turn the same time. It makes big chunks not super small but it does break down a 1 gallon HDPE bottle in a couple seconds which then will feed into the granulator. Overall it is looking like it will be the first stage of the shredding system. then to either a auger or conveyor to carry it to the granulator, and then carried by vacuum to the bagging, and soon a proper storage silo.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

update. changed to the 2 tooth shredder blades, and its working better. awaiting gears that will make both axles turn the same time. It makes big chunks not super small but it does break down a 1 gallon HDPE bottle in a couple seconds which then will feed into the granulator. Overall it is looking like it will be the first stage of the shredding system. then to either a auger or conveyor to carry it to the granulator, and then carried by vacuum to the bagging, and soon a proper storage silo.

Can't wait to see photo's. You going to leave the labels on or will you have another machine for that?

HAL_9000

Can't wait to see photo's. You going to leave the labels on or will you have another machine for that?

Same here.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

I'm designing a compression mold for large billets, and along the way am seeking understanding of how a sheet press works. The sheet press is a sandwich, of sorts: top press face, bottom press face, and in between a constraining frame "mold". Open, the frame is placed on the bottom press face, filled with plastic shred, then pressure applied via hydraulic cylinder while heating. I presume the mold is OVER FILLED, so that applied pressure encourages voids to escape out the sides as the squeeze is applied. Here's what I don't get: once both faces are in contact with the mold frame, no more pressure can be applied, can it? Yet, in a recent PP video from Costa Rica, part of their formula for bubble-free sheets involves interval cranking of the hydraulic press- which seems impossible, if the frame mold is already in contact. What am I missing?

They set it to compress a little bit periodically until the mould is closed. Once the mould is closed/compressed so the mould "sandwich" is pressing against itself there is no need to increase compression force.

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Has anyone contrived a compression mold or sheet press with pressure applied entirely via screws or a screw-spring assembly?

I've seen screw style cold presses. I don't think they incorporated any sort of spring feature to help keep the pressure on as things cool.

1

I had a question, I was trying to start the shredder project and after discussing this with my prof I have a 3~ motor with gear box that only uses .55kw and outputs a 103 rpm at 386in/lbs or 43n/m. This is not strong enough for the shredder application correct? It is less than the 300n/m nominal torque. I only plan on using this occasionally so if I can get away with this lesser motor and trade speed that would be ok with me and just gear it down (edited)

1

7:20 PM

please @ me if you are responding

Dreadk1d

I had a question, I was trying to start the shredder project and after discussing this with my prof I have a 3~ motor with gear box that only uses .55kw and outputs a 103 rpm at 386in/lbs or 43n/m. This is not strong enough for the shredder application correct? It is less than the 300n/m nominal torque. I only plan on using this occasionally so if I can get away with this lesser motor and trade speed that would be ok with me and just gear it down (edited)

If you geared it down theoretically anything could function, it would just need to spin very slowly. Another way to prevent stalling would be to make a smaller shredder (fewer teeth) so it would take less torque to function. That said, you could always build it around a motor/gearbox and provision the mounts to allow for other motors to couple to the shredder. That would allow you to get started and get the shredder built (a project by itself) and let you upgrade the motor later

12:41 AM

We're running a ~1500W motor and it's pretty easy to stall so I don't know that 550W would be very good

12:42 AM

You could put a flywheel on it if it was intermittently shredding, but know that if it stalls it'll be much harder to restart with all the flywheel inertia stationary

waterppk

If you geared it down theoretically anything could function, it would just need to spin very slowly. Another way to prevent stalling would be to make a smaller shredder (fewer teeth) so it would take less torque to function. That said, you could always build it around a motor/gearbox and provision the mounts to allow for other motors to couple to the shredder. That would allow you to get started and get the shredder built (a project by itself) and let you upgrade the motor later

Yeah I got the motor for free. What’s your torque sitting at for your design?

It’s crazy all the motors online are 200$ to find anything decent

Dreadk1d

It’s crazy all the motors online are 200$ to find anything decent

Yeah ideally make friends with a scrap metal person (who drives around picking up metal) or find a scrap yard that will sell stuff out from the metal yard otherwise new stuff is very expensive

waterppk

Yeah ideally make friends with a scrap metal person (who drives around picking up metal) or find a scrap yard that will sell stuff out from the metal yard otherwise new stuff is very expensive

Do you happen to know what your nom torque is for the shaft? It’s recommended 300n m so I was curious as you said yours was not working 100% as intended

Dreadk1d

Do you happen to know what your nom torque is for the shaft? It’s recommended 300n m so I was curious as you said yours was not working 100% as intended

I don't have a torque value for our motor, our gearing probably isn't low enough (RPM too high) so that's not helping things

waterppk

I don't have a torque value for our motor, our gearing probably isn't low enough (RPM too high) so that's not helping things

whats the horse power ? its not to hard to calc, they have it online

Dreadk1d

whats the horse power ? its not to hard to calc, they have it online

1500w is 2hp. Just some rough figures. I believe original shredder design is for 70rpm. If you are running at 1/3 power, you need to use gears to reduce to about 23rpm to achieve the same torque.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

1500w is 2hp. Just some rough figures. I believe original shredder design is for 70rpm. If you are running at 1/3 power, you need to use gears to reduce to about 23rpm to achieve the same torque.

yeah thats what i was looking at

Cheaper solution would be to use a pulley system. I think k pulleys and belts tend to be cheaper than buying a gear reducer.

1

the motor I have has a built in gear box of 16.8 so its rpm is at 108 to start

7:11 AM

5:1

7:11 AM

and should be good

7:11 AM

I hope

My shredder runs at 140rpm with 2hp motor. So it's about half the torque but twice the speed. But I have to baby it quite a lot as it will jam fairly easy.

1

yeah doesnt that make sense though because your eq is 101 n-m

7:14 AM

and the ideal spec was listed as about 300 (edited)

Well if you run at 300nm @ 70rpm, you'll be running 150nm @ 140rpm

OK so: 2hp @ 70rpm is 200nm 2ho @ 140rpm is 100nm

yeah

7:19 AM

I got an online calulator open'

7:20 AM

its torque = hp / (rpm / 5252) (edited)

Ah yes there you go. That calculator will answer your torque questions.

according to this site

7:20 AM

yeah im hopeful with your 100 n-m being feasible and shredding material (edited)

I'm not sure how much a role the inertia has on shredding. 140rpm has some mass, but at 23rpm you'll be going a bit slow and won't have any inertia benefits.

7:24 AM

But, just go slow and it should work if your shredder box is built properly

at 23 rpm there will be 2x**** the torque as well too. Good point on the inertia (edited)

7:25 AM

18 is 3. From what ive seen it will be quite slow

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I'm not sure how much a role the inertia has on shredding. 140rpm has some mass, but at 23rpm you'll be going a bit slow and won't have any inertia benefits.

thanks on the input!

Butte (PP Philippines) started a thread. 6/27/2023 10:07 AM

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

My shredder runs at 140rpm with 2hp motor. So it's about half the torque but twice the speed. But I have to baby it quite a lot as it will jam fairly easy.

Sounds like we have the same machine

Ours is the same issue we put a pulley reduction off of a gearbox reduced 3 phase motor but have about 2HP running around 130-150rpm and it jams pretty readily but can be managed

waterppk

Sounds like we have the same machine

Ours is the same issue we put a pulley reduction off of a gearbox reduced 3 phase motor but have about 2HP running around 130-150rpm and it jams pretty readily but can be managed

Using a pulley system with v-belt might be better because otherwise if you have a direct connection from gearbox output to shredder box and have a jam, things will break. So using faster rpm means you're more likely to jam but also you're not as likely going to apply torque levels that may break things. I've been toying with the idea of installing a flywheel to give additional mass to help with inertia, but... I'm just afraid if info it will break and I'll need to buy another shredder box. Haha

1

waterppk

Well there's only a few variables:

If the temperature is set the same and nothing on the heaters has changed that's constant
Your injection pressure should be about the same
Your volume per charge (IE: kinda density) is changing substantially if your dark plastic is much finer, I would expect longer heating times the more plastic there is (closer together). The catch is the heating would also be more efficient since there's less air in there between the plastic chunks
You said your material is "bone dry" but how's the possible if you're halfway through the bag? The plastic absorbs moisture from the air. Do you have an oven or way to dry a plastic charge of the finer plastic to absolutely make sure it's really dry?

(edited)

Point 1 and 2: I agree they are largely the same, and I have done around a hundred injections where me pressure and temp was the same, and it worked great. Point 3: true, I have tried to leave it in there for longer, but it begein a to boil and filled up with air bubbles. I used to be able to only have it in there for 5 minutes, and now I do 2x6 min. One with no low pressure pressure so the plastic is as spread out at possible in the tube, and one with high pressure. Can’t tell you why I do this, it just seemed to initially work, but now even that technique is starting to fail. Of course it is not zero humidity environment here in the workshop. But do you really think the plastic will change properties this much by just sitting in a room? I am pretty sure the plastic haven’t changed in the bag. It comes from a single factory waste stream. I have had this problem a year ago with a fine grind white plastic, that also suddenly stopped working. But I am struggling to see how humidity should be the culprit?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zg0rRujJQF1wtNAtguwyY8d_fwCQzAzu/view?pli=1 FYI the buster beagle mk3 injection mold build. Not all the dimensions are given, but there is enough to reverse engineer it. I built 2 units, but changed to a sc100x300mm pneumatic cylinder, and used 1.5mm wall 1x1 inch steel tubing for the frame. To really lower the cost and assembly, people have used threaded rod. like the old 3D printer designs from 2010-2012 for the frames. that will eliminate the welding of steel tubing and the hassle of that super expensive aluminum extrusion and getting all those little brackets to fit. If I was somewhere where shipping international was so expensive it would be worthwhile to do a kit and put on the bazar.

BusterBeagle3D_MK3_Plans.pdf

2

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zg0rRujJQF1wtNAtguwyY8d_fwCQzAzu/view?pli=1 FYI the buster beagle mk3 injection mold build. Not all the dimensions are given, but there is enough to reverse engineer it. I built 2 units, but changed to a sc100x300mm pneumatic cylinder, and used 1.5mm wall 1x1 inch steel tubing for the frame. To really lower the cost and assembly, people have used threaded rod. like the old 3D printer designs from 2010-2012 for the frames. that will eliminate the welding of steel tubing and the hassle of that super expensive aluminum extrusion and getting all those little brackets to fit. If I was somewhere where shipping international was so expensive it would be worthwhile to do a kit and put on the bazar.

Wow- aside from material specifications, those are pretty comprehensive!

Si Mo Ne

Point 1 and 2: I agree they are largely the same, and I have done around a hundred injections where me pressure and temp was the same, and it worked great. Point 3: true, I have tried to leave it in there for longer, but it begein a to boil and filled up with air bubbles. I used to be able to only have it in there for 5 minutes, and now I do 2x6 min. One with no low pressure pressure so the plastic is as spread out at possible in the tube, and one with high pressure. Can’t tell you why I do this, it just seemed to initially work, but now even that technique is starting to fail. Of course it is not zero humidity environment here in the workshop. But do you really think the plastic will change properties this much by just sitting in a room? I am pretty sure the plastic haven’t changed in the bag. It comes from a single factory waste stream. I have had this problem a year ago with a fine grind white plastic, that also suddenly stopped working. But I am struggling to see how humidity should be the culprit?

"I am pretty sure the plastic haven’t changed in the bag. It comes from a single factory waste stream. " Plastic shred and granules are a PERFECT condenser for moisture, having a much greater surface area than the container they occupy. All that is needed to garner moisture is a circumstance providing a contrast in temperature- relative position to air conditioning, direct heating through windows raising air temperature higher than the plastic's temperature, radiant heating of a wall combined with respiration - even the voids between the particles might insulate the plastic from the radiant heat given off by all things in the environment, leading to a temperature drop and condensate. (edited)

I know effectively nothing about electronics. That said, the need for an annealing and melt oven for melting plastic and relieve stress from parts has impressed upon me the need for an automated solution. Three things are needed when annealing plastic: 1) transitioning from temperature A to temperature B at a set rate- example: 10 deg per hour. 2) maintaining temperature for X hours 3) intermixing 1 and 2 as a program. Example, fresh hot part: when temperature falls to X degrees, limit cooling at specified rate-per-hour; when reaching target temperature, maintain for Y hours, then limit cooling at specified rate-per-hour until target temperature is reached. Example, cold part: raise temperature to X degrees at specified rate-per-hour; maintain for Y hours; limit cooling at specified rate-per-hour until target temperature is reached. Are these programing features already built into the V4 sheet press electronics? If not, how would you approach such a design? Would something as sophisticated as an Arduino microcontroller be necessary? While a purpose-built oven would be excellent, it seems to me retrofitting salvaged ovens might make for a more accessible build. Thoughts, ideas, advice, interest? (edited)

Many standalone PID controllers can be programmed to run ramps and temperature holds. This is a common feature for pottery kilns/etc too

4:42 AM

You might be better off just setting up an Arduino so you can quickly change between programs/configurations, the PID controller interface can get ungainly quickly

1

waterppk

You might be better off just setting up an Arduino so you can quickly change between programs/configurations, the PID controller interface can get ungainly quickly

All good council- but the kiln observation seems perfect: the problem has already been confronted.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic started a thread. 7/4/2023 7:05 AM

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"I am pretty sure the plastic haven’t changed in the bag. It comes from a single factory waste stream. " Plastic shred and granules are a PERFECT condenser for moisture, having a much greater surface area than the container they occupy. All that is needed to garner moisture is a circumstance providing a contrast in temperature- relative position to air conditioning, direct heating through windows raising air temperature higher than the plastic's temperature, radiant heating of a wall combined with respiration - even the voids between the particles might insulate the plastic from the radiant heat given off by all things in the environment, leading to a temperature drop and condensate. (edited)

I opened a new bag of plastic, and that on melted perfectly. never in a million years would i expect plastic to absorb water from the damn air

now the question is: what do i do with the plastic that have obsorbet the water? i tired heating it in the oven at 120 celcuis for 60 min , but it didn't help.

Si Mo Ne

I opened a new bag of plastic, and that on melted perfectly. never in a million years would i expect plastic to absorb water from the damn air

now the question is: what do i do with the plastic that have obsorbet the water? i tired heating it in the oven at 120 celcuis for 60 min , but it didn't help.

I'm interested in the topic of drying, but have no expertise. I also don't have a position on the cause of your difficulty- the above comment was strictly relating to the possibility of condensation, not likelihood or contribution to the failure. Just a data point for you to use if it fit. How many kilos of plastic is it? (edited)

Si Mo Ne

I opened a new bag of plastic, and that on melted perfectly. never in a million years would i expect plastic to absorb water from the damn air

now the question is: what do i do with the plastic that have obsorbet the water? i tired heating it in the oven at 120 celcuis for 60 min , but it didn't help.

How much mass do have?

1

2:13 AM

For certain 3D filaments it takes 3 hours per 1 kg at 150F

https://youtu.be/Hg6pHaBcNN8 gears worked okay, but the bearing cracked. replaced with the good ones from japan

Precious Plastic Philippines

July 6, 2023

Butte (PP Philippines)

https://youtu.be/Hg6pHaBcNN8 gears worked okay, but the bearing cracked. replaced with the good ones from japan

That is a BEAST! How many RPM do you reckon its "geared" down to?

On my quest to determine how much pressure is actually being delivered by the sheet press to the plastic contained in the mold, it was pointed out to me that the spring is the determining factor, not the pneumatic cylinder; common practice is reported to be to apply the jack until the spring is compressed to max operating height, bringing the compressed load of the spring to bear. Referencing the plans, the spring is specified as "R62-152". At 30% compression (approaching full compression to "solid height", and the maximum design load of the spring) the spring is rated to deliver 12266 newtons of force, or about 2758 lbs per sq inch- radically less than the full power of the jack. Of course, that force is actually dispersed over the entire contact surface- at 1040 mm sq, that amounts to 10,816 sq cm, or 4,258 sq inches. Why convert to inches? To make the spring PSI equivalence useful; dividing pounds by square inches, the spring at 30% would be delivering a paltry 0.647 pounds per square inch- by my reckoning, virtually nothing. (Actually, it is even less when the weight of the lower mechanism, plastic, and mold is considered!) Do I have that right? (edited)

12266N are 1250kg, on a square 104x104cm it's 0.115kg/cm². Not so much. Excuse me if I made the calculation in metric unit, but I'm not used to weird bananas/squirrel feet area units...

Kg/cm² makes more sense to the developed world than PSI. However, it is at least enough to press the molten plastic and to help air coming out.

11:54 PM

Also, excuse me if I found funny using imperial units, since they are simply absurd.

1

Question about an issue. I'm having, especially on hot dry weather conditions, a big electrostatic electricity buildup on the shredder. The shredder is properly grounded, all the parts from the motor, the gearbox, blades and the frame. I'm using a PP euro box to collect the plastic under the shredder, but also if I wrap all the box with tin foil the electrostatic electricity didn't go away. Spraying water/ethanol mixture helps, but water has to be dried away and it isn't fast (I put the flakes in LDPE sachets I collect at job to keep the colours separated). Seems that in the industry they use negative ions generators. The industrial ones are just a little too expensive for me, and I'm wondering if some commecial negative ions generators (the ones you can find on eBay) can do the job. I bought a couple of this one. https://www.ebay.it/itm/225506367123?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nDtQjBrDSYi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=uQzuBpQmQU-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY They are working (there's clearly a high voltage and so ion flow since I can measure with my multimeter, and they are arcing from the carbon fibers when near the metal of the frame), but I hadn't enough time to test them properly. Someone had tried something like that?

Generatore anione negativo 220 V modulo ionizzatore al plasma purif...

Le migliori offerte per Generatore anione negativo 220 V modulo ionizzatore al plasma purificatore d'aria fai da te sono su eBay ✓ Confronta prezzi e caratteristiche di prodotti nuovi e usati ✓ Molti articoli con consegna gratis!

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Question about an issue. I'm having, especially on hot dry weather conditions, a big electrostatic electricity buildup on the shredder. The shredder is properly grounded, all the parts from the motor, the gearbox, blades and the frame. I'm using a PP euro box to collect the plastic under the shredder, but also if I wrap all the box with tin foil the electrostatic electricity didn't go away. Spraying water/ethanol mixture helps, but water has to be dried away and it isn't fast (I put the flakes in LDPE sachets I collect at job to keep the colours separated). Seems that in the industry they use negative ions generators. The industrial ones are just a little too expensive for me, and I'm wondering if some commecial negative ions generators (the ones you can find on eBay) can do the job. I bought a couple of this one. https://www.ebay.it/itm/225506367123?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nDtQjBrDSYi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=uQzuBpQmQU-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY They are working (there's clearly a high voltage and so ion flow since I can measure with my multimeter, and they are arcing from the carbon fibers when near the metal of the frame), but I hadn't enough time to test them properly. Someone had tried something like that?

In the States, we just keep one hand on the machine and wait for a victim. (edited)

2

I have a 0.5 hp motor with 200nm already will it be sufficient for the basic extruder?

jimmy

I have a 0.5 hp motor with 200nm already will it be sufficient for the basic extruder?

It's really hard to answer that question, it depends on how high the pressure is that you need (AKA how small are you squeezing material out) and how big your screw is. If you have a small screw and a big hole you can extrude with lower power, if you have a larger screw and a small hole then it would be less likely to work

12:33 AM

What I would do is build something that makes it easy to swap the motor, and see how it works

waterppk

It's really hard to answer that question, it depends on how high the pressure is that you need (AKA how small are you squeezing material out) and how big your screw is. If you have a small screw and a big hole you can extrude with lower power, if you have a larger screw and a small hole then it would be less likely to work

Thank you for your help

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

I'm interested in the topic of drying, but have no expertise. I also don't have a position on the cause of your difficulty- the above comment was strictly relating to the possibility of condensation, not likelihood or contribution to the failure. Just a data point for you to use if it fit. How many kilos of plastic is it? (edited)

i undertsand, but i think it is a pretty good guess. I am in a damp basement and haven't put the lid on the box with the bag in when i left at night. This melting error also only happens with fine plastic granulate, and not with course granulate. I never put the lid on any of my boxes with coarse plastic, and it always works just fine. I will be testing out "dehydrating" plastic later in the summer when I am done with my big deadline. By googling how to dehydrate food information like this comes up, and that is what i will be trying first: 6-12 hours at 60 celcius/ 140 Fahrenheit. i will try that technique first and report back :b it is around 5 kg of plastic that are spoiled.

Si Mo Ne

i undertsand, but i think it is a pretty good guess. I am in a damp basement and haven't put the lid on the box with the bag in when i left at night. This melting error also only happens with fine plastic granulate, and not with course granulate. I never put the lid on any of my boxes with coarse plastic, and it always works just fine. I will be testing out "dehydrating" plastic later in the summer when I am done with my big deadline. By googling how to dehydrate food information like this comes up, and that is what i will be trying first: 6-12 hours at 60 celcius/ 140 Fahrenheit. i will try that technique first and report back :b it is around 5 kg of plastic that are spoiled.

Reviewing industrial plastic injection machines, it is not uncommon to incorporate a drying mechanism to condition plastic just before being fed to the injection portion of the machine. Moisture is such an issue, it seems, even water garnered while being conveyed to the machine may adversely impact quality! (edited)

1

Hello, maybe someone can help me. I’m from France and wan’t to recycle plastic. I understand Injection machine is nice for small pieces ~150g. What’s is the difference with extrusion machine ? (This one has « no limit » with plastic quantity)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

In the States, we just keep one hand on the machine and wait for a victim. (edited)

Never had an electric shock from that, the frame is grounded. The only issue is that the plastic falling in the box tend to be blown away from the static charge, making a mess in the laboratory...

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Never had an electric shock from that, the frame is grounded. The only issue is that the plastic falling in the box tend to be blown away from the static charge, making a mess in the laboratory...

2:33 PM

(Davide waiting by the shredder) I'd get right on re-wiring that- you're totally missing out on an important feature. (edited)

I delivered a T2 Automatic injection machine, shredder and mould to a local school today!

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

(Davide waiting by the shredder) I'd get right on re-wiring that- you're totally missing out on an important feature. (edited)

My shredder is a custom design, all the wirings are made by a friend, who is a professional certified industrial electrician, working for a big plastic manufacturing industry here in Italy. It's not a wiring issue, plastic become electrically charged because of the rubbing during the second shedding pass. And only in dry and hot environmental conditions.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

My shredder is a custom design, all the wirings are made by a friend, who is a professional certified industrial electrician, working for a big plastic manufacturing industry here in Italy. It's not a wiring issue, plastic become electrically charged because of the rubbing during the second shedding pass. And only in dry and hot environmental conditions.

<joke> Being well grounded, the machine does not build up a charge that can be used as a weapon to shock folks passing in the shop; it was suggested to rewire the machine to INTRODUCE such a fault, enabling attacks, and was intended as humor based on a common way people experiences static electricity. Being an absurd allusion, the joke doesn't depend on an accurate apprehension of the mechanics of static electricity or electronics. </joke> Keeping with that theme, here is a video on eliminating static electricity in industrial plastic processing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEfG9F0DBcc I'm not sure how expensive an ion blower is. While researching problems with painting HDPE, I learned that one less expensive way of changing the surface charge of plastic is to pass it through an open flame. What could possibly go wrong? (edited)

松井製作所 / MATSUI MFG. CO., LTD.

Solutions for Static Electricity in Plastic Molding Plants

Si Mo Ne

i undertsand, but i think it is a pretty good guess. I am in a damp basement and haven't put the lid on the box with the bag in when i left at night. This melting error also only happens with fine plastic granulate, and not with course granulate. I never put the lid on any of my boxes with coarse plastic, and it always works just fine. I will be testing out "dehydrating" plastic later in the summer when I am done with my big deadline. By googling how to dehydrate food information like this comes up, and that is what i will be trying first: 6-12 hours at 60 celcius/ 140 Fahrenheit. i will try that technique first and report back :b it is around 5 kg of plastic that are spoiled.

While researching Davide's static electricity problem, I learned that static electric build up can negatively (

) impact the plastic injection process at the point of injection! What if moisture isn't your problem, but a lack of moisture promoting charge disparity on the fine ground plastic?

just ground the thing. it is the same static issue that is associated with liquid fuels. as long as you have some sort of bare metal like stainless or aluminum in your hopper and not insulated, the charge will be dissipated to ground.

Butte (PP Philippines)

just ground the thing. it is the same static issue that is associated with liquid fuels. as long as you have some sort of bare metal like stainless or aluminum in your hopper and not insulated, the charge will be dissipated to ground.

Would it though? Why don't large industrial processors just do as you suggest instead of installing static control systems involving ionized air or magnetic fields? (real question) (edited)

depends on the amount of agitation, and transfer of charge, is my best guess, based on my work building plastic current collectors for super capacitors.

1:44 PM

but if you have bare metal like in your feed hopper than can collect the charge from the plastic flake, it should dissipate thru ground, provided you have a good ground.

1:48 PM

in fuel distribution, we grounded pretty much every metal fitting that was in between the rubber hoses we used to pump it with to eliminate this issue as liquid fuel also makes static when passing thru a rubber hose as an example. when I did dry bulk flour we had similar issue when blowing loads out of the aluminum trailers and the entire system was grounded to prevent a dust explosion fom static.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

in fuel distribution, we grounded pretty much every metal fitting that was in between the rubber hoses we used to pump it with to eliminate this issue as liquid fuel also makes static when passing thru a rubber hose as an example. when I did dry bulk flour we had similar issue when blowing loads out of the aluminum trailers and the entire system was grounded to prevent a dust explosion fom static.

So, in this case, isn't the static being introduced during shredding? becoming problematic immediately on the decent toward the collection box? My understanding is that most plastics aren't great at conducting charge- so while a jug we are recycling might pass over a well-grounded surface, the charge distributed over the entire surface of that jug is NOT impacted! This is why we can't just ground HDPE and paint it. (It occurs to me that wet shredding offers more than just dust suppression) (edited)

it will not dissipate fast, because of the high resistance, but it will dissipate if you got some grounded metal in contact with the material. the static charge is basically the same way capacitors hold a charge.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

<joke> Being well grounded, the machine does not build up a charge that can be used as a weapon to shock folks passing in the shop; it was suggested to rewire the machine to INTRODUCE such a fault, enabling attacks, and was intended as humor based on a common way people experiences static electricity. Being an absurd allusion, the joke doesn't depend on an accurate apprehension of the mechanics of static electricity or electronics. </joke> Keeping with that theme, here is a video on eliminating static electricity in industrial plastic processing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEfG9F0DBcc I'm not sure how expensive an ion blower is. While researching problems with painting HDPE, I learned that one less expensive way of changing the surface charge of plastic is to pass it through an open flame. What could possibly go wrong? (edited)

Excuse me, but it is difficult to understand jokes when you are speaking a foreign language, reading messages in the pauses when the CNC lathe is working, in a 37°C environment...

I bought those negative ion generators to do the same thing a flame can do, as (maybe) you know, flames are ionized, then they can discharge static electricity. But yes, something can go wrong, and maybe putting flames in a PP box full of plastic chips isn't the smartest idea...

1

3

Butte (PP Philippines)

just ground the thing. it is the same static issue that is associated with liquid fuels. as long as you have some sort of bare metal like stainless or aluminum in your hopper and not insulated, the charge will be dissipated to ground.

Nope, it doesn't work. I tested the ground and it is perfect (less than 1 Ohm), all the mechanical parts are independently grounded to the main cable, and the building ground is yearly tested (since we are in a public space, a hackerspace/nerd bar, it has to be tested accordingly to laws). Also the soil around the building isn't wet at all so it's perfect for grounding, since recently we had a major flooding here... Also I tried putting an aluminium foil in the PP box I'm using to collect the shredded material, grounded to the frame, but it doesn't work. I'm wondering if making a collection box from aluminium can solve the issue. However, the shredded plastic is carrying the issue, even if manipulated it keeps the charge. After shredding I put it in some LDPE sachets and it stays charged for days, if the environment is dry, you can see it because it stays attached to the sachet. With lower temperatures and higher humidity, the issue is reduced or zero. I tried also to allow the chips to fall on a metal plate, obviously grounded, no difference at all. So I decided to try with negative ion generators, they are broadly used in the industry, but the industrial ones aren't affordable for me.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

So, in this case, isn't the static being introduced during shredding? becoming problematic immediately on the decent toward the collection box? My understanding is that most plastics aren't great at conducting charge- so while a jug we are recycling might pass over a well-grounded surface, the charge distributed over the entire surface of that jug is NOT impacted! This is why we can't just ground HDPE and paint it. (It occurs to me that wet shredding offers more than just dust suppression) (edited)

Yes, the static charge comes from the rubbing plastic during shredding. Before it isn't charged at all.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Yes, the static charge comes from the rubbing plastic during shredding. Before it isn't charged at all.

Is yours a stainless shredder? -could you wet-shred?

No, i made it with quench hardened nitrided steel for the blades and S355JR steel for the casing. Wet shredding isn't a viable option.

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Is yours a stainless shredder? -could you wet-shred?

Then you end up with wet plastic and that introduces a whole other level of potential difficulties.

NJ90210

Then you end up with wet plastic and that introduces a whole other level of potential difficulties.

Without doubt, a more attractive solution were Davide also washing plastic. Regrinding production byproduct is common, no doubt- more so than virgin plastic; I presumed their interest was wild plastic recycling, without cause. (edited)

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Nope, it doesn't work. I tested the ground and it is perfect (less than 1 Ohm), all the mechanical parts are independently grounded to the main cable, and the building ground is yearly tested (since we are in a public space, a hackerspace/nerd bar, it has to be tested accordingly to laws). Also the soil around the building isn't wet at all so it's perfect for grounding, since recently we had a major flooding here... Also I tried putting an aluminium foil in the PP box I'm using to collect the shredded material, grounded to the frame, but it doesn't work. I'm wondering if making a collection box from aluminium can solve the issue. However, the shredded plastic is carrying the issue, even if manipulated it keeps the charge. After shredding I put it in some LDPE sachets and it stays charged for days, if the environment is dry, you can see it because it stays attached to the sachet. With lower temperatures and higher humidity, the issue is reduced or zero. I tried also to allow the chips to fall on a metal plate, obviously grounded, no difference at all. So I decided to try with negative ion generators, they are broadly used in the industry, but the industrial ones aren't affordable for me.

well there is one thing that will make it ground... but its messy... just throwin it out there in cause you want that color added... is some graphite... I been messing with graphene and graphite additives to my plastic for years. graphite is used as a current collector in capacitors. But seriously, of the tons of plastic I have processed, this is the first time I have heard of this, aside from powdercoat powder and my disaster of using that to color plastic... this is truly a preplexing mystery.

Butte (PP Philippines)

well there is one thing that will make it ground... but its messy... just throwin it out there in cause you want that color added... is some graphite... I been messing with graphene and graphite additives to my plastic for years. graphite is used as a current collector in capacitors. But seriously, of the tons of plastic I have processed, this is the first time I have heard of this, aside from powdercoat powder and my disaster of using that to color plastic... this is truly a preplexing mystery.

"But seriously, of the tons of plastic I have processed, this is the first time I have heard of this..." "The Philippine climate is tropical rainforest, tropical savanna, tropical monsoon, or humid subtropical in higher-elevation areas characterised by relatively high temperature, humidity, and frequent rainfall." From what I've read, this is not an uncommon plastic production issue for folks not living in a sauna.

(edited)

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"But seriously, of the tons of plastic I have processed, this is the first time I have heard of this..." "The Philippine climate is tropical rainforest, tropical savanna, tropical monsoon, or humid subtropical in higher-elevation areas characterised by relatively high temperature, humidity, and frequent rainfall." From what I've read, this is not an uncommon plastic production issue for folks not living in a sauna.

(edited)

nope!!! steam bath!!! not sauna!!!

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"But seriously, of the tons of plastic I have processed, this is the first time I have heard of this..." "The Philippine climate is tropical rainforest, tropical savanna, tropical monsoon, or humid subtropical in higher-elevation areas characterised by relatively high temperature, humidity, and frequent rainfall." From what I've read, this is not an uncommon plastic production issue for folks not living in a sauna.

(edited)

Here at the moment we have something like 37~40°C during the day, but the humidity is around 50~60%.

Taylor

I delivered a T2 Automatic injection machine, shredder and mould to a local school today!

Very Nice. Is that comb mould drawing available on the PP website?

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Yes, the static charge comes from the rubbing plastic during shredding. Before it isn't charged at all.

Yes I think this might be a contributing factor. The PP shredder is not a "chipper" or "Chopper" it stretches and pulls against the fixed blades. Always there are static charged pieces/dust on the sides of the buckets. (my 2cents)

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Yes I think this might be a contributing factor. The PP shredder is not a "chipper" or "Chopper" it stretches and pulls against the fixed blades. Always there are static charged pieces/dust on the sides of the buckets. (my 2cents)

Mine isn't made on PP design, but the issue is the same...

Building 3 complete plastic lumber factories at the moment. Inspired by a flow molding plastic lumber production line, I built this cutting station. We have a complete plastic production flow chart, of molding, cooling, de-molding trimming the ends, and placing in a rack to cool, and then it gets banded in the rack and ready to ship. each cross bar is 2 feet, as customers want their length in feet. 2-4 and 6 feet distances are the cross bars and then a stopper is placed on the desired length so that the operator does not have to constantly measure each board. the production line is projected to make a four foot board every 2 min. (edited)

3

1

what temperatures are people using for HDPE in their injection machine? I looked back through this channel and saw mention of 220c for the shaft and 265c for the nozzle but i couldnt tell if that was for an injection machine or extruder.. Is that the type of temps people are running at?

1

Upcycler_Simon

what temperatures are people using for HDPE in their injection machine? I looked back through this channel and saw mention of 220c for the shaft and 265c for the nozzle but i couldnt tell if that was for an injection machine or extruder.. Is that the type of temps people are running at?

For injection, i go from 170 to 205C depending on material, getting clóser or pass 205 just checking to presence of black dots for burning signs But i seen spaces that go way higher... So try and error for every type of material you work with, & document It so you dont have to test the same material twice

Upcycler_Simon

what temperatures are people using for HDPE in their injection machine? I looked back through this channel and saw mention of 220c for the shaft and 265c for the nozzle but i couldnt tell if that was for an injection machine or extruder.. Is that the type of temps people are running at?

And start with temperature machine higher than desired, to have your nozzle able to melt /pass plástic

Upcycler_Simon

what temperatures are people using for HDPE in their injection machine? I looked back through this channel and saw mention of 220c for the shaft and 265c for the nozzle but i couldnt tell if that was for an injection machine or extruder.. Is that the type of temps people are running at?

For injection I've seen 250c at nozzle. Some workspaces run things hot to help improve production capacity, but you need to be able to correctly time things otherwise you might have issues with plastic breaking down too much and also generating a bunch of smoke.

The South African engineer that did a workaway in m y shop, has taken the log splitter design to a new level making auto parts from waste blow mold HDPE, which is closer to UHMWHDPE. He told me that he runs his machine up to 270c almost to the smoking point to get it to inject. He makes parts for off road truck bumpers with it. H e moved way out in the middle of the bush, and that little molder basically makes enough to pay all his needs.

1

I would like to ask it is possible to start a small business with one person and 2-3 basic machines with tight budget?

Eltsu19

I would like to ask it is possible to start a small business with one person and 2-3 basic machines with tight budget?

I would advise to not do that. Having just 1 employee makes production flow much easier. But doing everything on your own is quite a struggle. It also depends on your business model. Sometimes giving workshops can bring in well needed income if there's a slump in selling product. The cost of doing this is using less material, but if you reach the right people you might have greater impact. Still....better to not work alone!

1

Sadly i dont have friends who haves same interest. Mostly be online shop. I was thinking have shredder and injection machine. Start slow then build up month to month

Eltsu19

Sadly i dont have friends who haves same interest. Mostly be online shop. I was thinking have shredder and injection machine. Start slow then build up month to month

A lot of businesses have had a progressive start. That said, there was a discussion here a few days ago about what would be needed to outfit a plastics business capable of sustaining itself; $80K USD was floated. Depending on your ambition, that might be sufficient, I reckon; tallying up ALL expenses and investment to go from nothing to business with a customer base, I would want a larger margin. A flat-footed start may not be practical- a new enterprise could eat up much of that hypothetical budget just securing transportation. (edited)

I thinking not go big right know. Start 2-3 products.

3:57 PM

Im just wanting to something 5 years now.

3:58 PM

i am currently doing a lot of research

A couple links to pass on. The first is a multi-part article on implementing die springs in an injection molding set up: https://www.ptonline.com/blog/post/tooling-back-to-basics-on-die-springs--part-2- The second considers where heat comes from when extruding. Hint: it probably isn't entirely what you're thinking. For folks struggling with flow and temperature control in, a worthwhile read: https://www.ptonline.com/articles/understanding-melting-in-single-screw-extruders-

Tooling: Back to Basics On Die Springs--Part 2

Follow these steps for proper die-spring selection and installation.

Understanding Melting in Single-Screw Extruders

You can better visualize the melting process by “flipping” the observation point so that the barrel appears to be turning clockwise around a stationary screw.

Eltsu19

i am currently doing a lot of research

The best advice I received on this topic was to eliminate all the systems that weren't absolutely essential to the product. In my case, "not essential" = collection/sorting/washing/shredding. If possible, all that can be outsource, and once a product justifies the expense, brought in-house. That took a moment to reconcile with the vision and role I had for myself- but once embraced, was liberating, empowering. I've come to appreciate the term "plastic ecology"- WE need not be the entire ecosystem ourselves. Friends and partners can mean the difference between can and can not, or this decade or next. My plastic fabrication business could be a critical client for a shred business- and their product a basis for my product. (edited)

Eltsu19

i am currently doing a lot of research

People tend to get very hung up on "needing the equipment" when in reality if you're focusing on building this as a business you need to define products/processes. If you have a shredder and an injection moulder that's great, but that actually isn't any closer to having a sale-able product than you are today. What do you want to sell? Who are you selling to? Who will you sell to next when you friends/family/etc all own whatever it is that you're making? You might want to explore something like a business model canvas to outline how your business would/will function before you worry about the tools/equipment: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Business_Model_Canvas

Business Model Canvas

The Business Model Canvas is a strategic management template used for developing new business models and documenting existing ones. It offers a visual chart with elements describing a firm's or product's value proposition, infrastructure, customers, and finances, assisting businesses to align their activities by illustrating potential trade-offs...

2

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

The best advice I received on this topic was to eliminate all the systems that weren't absolutely essential to the product. In my case, "not essential" = collection/sorting/washing/shredding. If possible, all that can be outsource, and once a product justifies the expense, brought in-house. That took a moment to reconcile with the vision and role I had for myself- but once embraced, was liberating, empowering. I've come to appreciate the term "plastic ecology"- WE need not be the entire ecosystem ourselves. Friends and partners can mean the difference between can and can not, or this decade or next. My plastic fabrication business could be a critical client for a shred business- and their product a basis for my product. (edited)

i understan. My older brother gonna help businnes side thing.

waterppk

People tend to get very hung up on "needing the equipment" when in reality if you're focusing on building this as a business you need to define products/processes. If you have a shredder and an injection moulder that's great, but that actually isn't any closer to having a sale-able product than you are today. What do you want to sell? Who are you selling to? Who will you sell to next when you friends/family/etc all own whatever it is that you're making? You might want to explore something like a business model canvas to outline how your business would/will function before you worry about the tools/equipment: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Business_Model_Canvas

Also i know that. That why im doing research.

Eltsu19

Also i know that. That why im doing research.

Cool, so what are you thinking you want to make? There's definitely a blend of possible products from hand made/formed art to engineering/design heavy moulded parts

waterppk

Cool, so what are you thinking you want to make? There's definitely a blend of possible products from hand made/formed art to engineering/design heavy moulded parts

that is hard part to find something that people wanted to buy. I focused more online shop and little bit local market couple time.

Eltsu19

I would like to ask it is possible to start a small business with one person and 2-3 basic machines with tight budget?

Possible It Is, just evaluate your life time available, key resourses, your bussiness plan and relationships One person, as Ben said, its a struggle, a big one, maybe find some part Time helper or voluntiers, not just from your friends, you aré ahead of them as i see. I started on my own, with a budget, of 400 usd at that Time Chasing goals and using all resourses availables, still dont know if doing It or just faking It... (edited)

waterppk

People tend to get very hung up on "needing the equipment" when in reality if you're focusing on building this as a business you need to define products/processes. If you have a shredder and an injection moulder that's great, but that actually isn't any closer to having a sale-able product than you are today. What do you want to sell? Who are you selling to? Who will you sell to next when you friends/family/etc all own whatever it is that you're making? You might want to explore something like a business model canvas to outline how your business would/will function before you worry about the tools/equipment: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Business_Model_Canvas

@Eltsu19 Canvas model Is usefull A few tools you might encounter on your way. I went the side road with the Precious Plastic way all the Time (edited)

Ruben

@Eltsu19 Canvas model Is usefull A few tools you might encounter on your way. I went the side road with the Precious Plastic way all the Time (edited)

1

I also have look up precious plastic business tools.

Ruben

Possible It Is, just evaluate your life time available, key resourses, your bussiness plan and relationships One person, as Ben said, its a struggle, a big one, maybe find some part Time helper or voluntiers, not just from your friends, you aré ahead of them as i see. I started on my own, with a budget, of 400 usd at that Time Chasing goals and using all resourses availables, still dont know if doing It or just faking It... (edited)

I understan. Where i live. If i make good business plan then i mybe get grant uo to 6k.

Eltsu19

that is hard part to find something that people wanted to buy. I focused more online shop and little bit local market couple time.

You can look up related platforms such as Etsy to see what's 'selling'. The thumb of the rule is to add value to other businesses. As advocated by successful entrepreneurs, you're ideally building a system which you can re-use for new endeavors (Repetition Killed the Cat). Removing your self from the equation and put the best people for the job instead has proven gold

Anne vs the Gang

You can look up related platforms such as Etsy to see what's 'selling'. The thumb of the rule is to add value to other businesses. As advocated by successful entrepreneurs, you're ideally building a system which you can re-use for new endeavors (Repetition Killed the Cat). Removing your self from the equation and put the best people for the job instead has proven gold

Why Etsywhat? We just have an excelent tracking system in our own bazar, of which ítems aré sold the most, and most popular

️

I'd love to second that

Etsy still represents the benchmark, and overall performance reference for 'products' in this niche.

10:46 PM

Tracking #activity-bot and sales on Etsy give's you a good idea where it is ...

10:48 PM

And that's just one among many platforms. In this trade, you're looking at 3-5 more platforms

10:49 PM

If you don't need any of those, you're on the right, and 'healthy' track (edited)

10:55 PM

That being said, my recommendation to newcomers is to build a strong portfolio in the service (education & development) sector instead, IMHO

Ruben

Why Etsywhat? We just have an excelent tracking system in our own bazar, of which ítems aré sold the most, and most popular

️

For now, the bazar is a sub-set market; when doing market analysis, focusing on a sub-set of of customers can present economic advantages, allowing resources to be spent exactly where needed, reaching your very particular customer. For folks looking to sell a sheet press, the bazar is a natural destination. However, the customer base of the bazar is not the same or as broad as the customer base of Etsy. It is entirely possible for a product to not be viable on the bazar, yet thrive at another market. Moreover, venues such as Etsy feature radically greater diversity and volume of sales to draw from for market analysis. Your question "why Etsy and not the Bazar" makes as much sense to me as a rocket company asking why you use a cell tower to find your cell phone when they already have an excellent radar tracking system locating their rockets. (edited)

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Christopher - Unmake Plastic

For now, the bazar is a sub-set market; when doing market analysis, focusing on a sub-set of of customers can present economic advantages, allowing resources to be spent exactly where needed, reaching your very particular customer. For folks looking to sell a sheet press, the bazar is a natural destination. However, the customer base of the bazar is not the same or as broad as the customer base of Etsy. It is entirely possible for a product to not be viable on the bazar, yet thrive at another market. Moreover, venues such as Etsy feature radically greater diversity and volume of sales to draw from for market analysis. Your question "why Etsy and not the Bazar" makes as much sense to me as a rocket company asking why you use a cell tower to find your cell phone when they already have an excellent radar tracking system locating their rockets. (edited)

If your business relies on digital channels/outlets, more back links in your SEO strategy wont harm at all

Eltsu19

I would like to ask it is possible to start a small business with one person and 2-3 basic machines with tight budget?

totally possible. a v3 shredder, and a injection molder is pretty much all you need. plus some molds and a ton of work and determination.

Ruben

Possible It Is, just evaluate your life time available, key resourses, your bussiness plan and relationships One person, as Ben said, its a struggle, a big one, maybe find some part Time helper or voluntiers, not just from your friends, you aré ahead of them as i see. I started on my own, with a budget, of 400 usd at that Time Chasing goals and using all resourses availables, still dont know if doing It or just faking It... (edited)

I started with literally zero. Had a home paid for, not much bills no debt. Started selling machines. the downpay covered the materials, the balance paid for my food, and expenses. then I managed to get a stick welder, then a helper, moved out of the home 1 car garage into a small shop, was there a couple years, big struggle, and now in a big shop. all the while only taking from the business enough for my food, and daily expense.

1

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1

Butte (PP Philippines)

I started with literally zero. Had a home paid for, not much bills no debt. Started selling machines. the downpay covered the materials, the balance paid for my food, and expenses. then I managed to get a stick welder, then a helper, moved out of the home 1 car garage into a small shop, was there a couple years, big struggle, and now in a big shop. all the while only taking from the business enough for my food, and daily expense.

Very very posible! Thanks for sharing your path!

Butte (PP Philippines)

totally possible. a v3 shredder, and a injection molder is pretty much all you need. plus some molds and a ton of work and determination.

Just like a started kit ; ) Going for this next week

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Christopher - Unmake Plastic

A couple links to pass on. The first is a multi-part article on implementing die springs in an injection molding set up: https://www.ptonline.com/blog/post/tooling-back-to-basics-on-die-springs--part-2- The second considers where heat comes from when extruding. Hint: it probably isn't entirely what you're thinking. For folks struggling with flow and temperature control in, a worthwhile read: https://www.ptonline.com/articles/understanding-melting-in-single-screw-extruders-

This is an interesting article! I'm surprised that most of the heat in an extrusion machine is generated by the screw. That seems wrong, but the article seems to be written by an industry expert.

adamj537

This is an interesting article! I'm surprised that most of the heat in an extrusion machine is generated by the screw. That seems wrong, but the article seems to be written by an industry expert.

The heat comes from the screw

I remember that vividly from my polymers course in college, the heater is mainly to get to process temp then a lot of it is handed off to the screw, to the point where many extruders have both heaters and cooling fan jackets around the barrel

1

Wow! Today I learned.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

I started with literally zero. Had a home paid for, not much bills no debt. Started selling machines. the downpay covered the materials, the balance paid for my food, and expenses. then I managed to get a stick welder, then a helper, moved out of the home 1 car garage into a small shop, was there a couple years, big struggle, and now in a big shop. all the while only taking from the business enough for my food, and daily expense.

Im same mindset

Anybody have plans for the log splitter molds I see on youtube?

Butte is precious plastic Philippines i believe if that's the video you're seeing

adamj537

This is an interesting article! I'm surprised that most of the heat in an extrusion machine is generated by the screw. That seems wrong, but the article seems to be written by an industry expert.

In practice with extrusion pro, you'll see your temperatures increase to beyond desired temperatures if there's blockage

Lessons learned

1

tonelessbod

Anybody have plans for the log splitter molds I see on youtube?

@Butte (PP Philippines) did you make plans for your machine?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

@Butte (PP Philippines) did you make plans for your machine?

no, just threw it together and its been modded a bunch. we are looking at going back to pneumatic because we can hold pressure in the mold for the sinkage issue, and adjust the pressure to combat excessive flashing in the parts that we have to spend hours cleaning.

tonelessbod

Anybody have plans for the log splitter molds I see on youtube?

https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/log-splitter-injector-upgrade There were also a few pages out there where PP Melbourne talked about their development. (edited)

Log splitter injector upgrade

Need a little more power, or just feeling lazy? We've upgraded our PP injection mould machine using a 5T log splitter - this has made a world of difference to our production capabilities. In these videos, we discuss how we did it, as well as our process for creating thick parts. Note: THIS UPGRADE IS DANGEROUS! Please take care with hydraulic m...

1

tonelessbod

Anybody have plans for the log splitter molds I see on youtube?

....and here is a narrative about the machine from their Instagram- https://www.instagram.com/reel/CKih18qn_H0/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

1

The new extrusion build. I need to move the power switches. this is number 1 of 3 units in this build series. Number 4 and 5 in this series will be shorter and a little more narrow. I used scaffold wheels on the bottom as it will be too heavy to move around the shop after we put the extrusion screw and motor in. It is already the maximum that 3 men can move by hand. 10hp, 6kw heat. estimated 250kg per 8 hour shift. Destination for the plastic lumber factories are the Philippine cities of Manila, Caloocan, Cotobato, and Cainta with the 5th unit for my shop. (edited)

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question does extruder make plants pots?

Eltsu19

question does extruder make plants pots?

Bricks are produced with the extrusion machine so I think it should be possible. But don't expect the same quality that you'd get from the plastic pots sold in stores. (edited)

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Bricks are produced with the extrusion machine so I think it should be possible. But don't expect the same quality that you'd get from the plastic pots sold in stores. (edited)

You mean in bazar?

2:15 PM

im seeing extruder is more popular then injection (edited)

Eltsu19

You mean in bazar?

What do you want to make? For injectors, cost and complexity raise rapidly with the part volume; inexpensive machines are great for making high fidelity, relatively small parts. Extruders deliver a continuous, higher volume of plastic at relatively lower pressure- so good for filling press molds and large volume molds where high pressure isn't required (think lumber). If you review molds in the Bazar, you will get a sense of what is possible with either- https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/ Also notice the difference in cost and methods of construction for injection vs press molds.

Moulds

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Bricks are produced with the extrusion machine so I think it should be possible. But don't expect the same quality that you'd get from the plastic pots sold in stores. (edited)

Couldn't be much worse? 3 of the plastic pots we bought last year are already broken.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

What do you want to make? For injectors, cost and complexity raise rapidly with the part volume; inexpensive machines are great for making high fidelity, relatively small parts. Extruders deliver a continuous, higher volume of plastic at relatively lower pressure- so good for filling press molds and large volume molds where high pressure isn't required (think lumber). If you review molds in the Bazar, you will get a sense of what is possible with either- https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/moulds/ Also notice the difference in cost and methods of construction for injection vs press molds.

I was thinking flower pots couple zizes. Later starting diffent things.

We've been compression moulding large pots and they've been selling pretty well at a local greenhouse. They're about 6mm wall thickness so they're hard to damage. We made one of these: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/create-a-bowl-using-a-laser-cut-mould then made a scaled up version as well

Create a bowl using a laser cut mould

Mathijs will show you how to create an iconic recycled bowl using a lasercut moud.

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Thinking about strategies for filling a high volume press mold to limit entraining air got me thinking about staged melting of layers of shred- a thin layer of shred, followed by application of heat, followed by more shred, repeat as needed; in the case of my intended application, that might require approximately forever. That led to thoughts of preheating the shred and the common method for filling a press mold with a large billet of molten plastic: extrusion. A lot of groovy color swirls may be achieved with an extruder, or taken further, homogeneous blends- but while solving a lot of problems, takes something away that I want: control over color blending/fades/transitions. That got be thinking about melting the individual shred constituents while being conveyed to the mold *in the air *, delivered akin to how shotcrete is applied. Imagine: a vacuum hopper is loaded with shred, layered and mixed as desired; the vacuum uptakes the shred, conveyed over head to a sub-melt heating tube, then to a heat gun cyclone suspended over the mold, mounted on two sets of rollers to allow fluid positioning in two axis. Temperature control would be critical- too high too early, and shred will stick to the conveyor or burn, too cool, and semi molten shred is blown from the mold box rather than sticking. The over-the-top Rube Goldberg wackiness of it is both highly appealing to me and simultaneously daunting. (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Thinking about strategies for filling a high volume press mold to limit entraining air got me thinking about staged melting of layers of shred- a thin layer of shred, followed by application of heat, followed by more shred, repeat as needed; in the case of my intended application, that might require approximately forever. That led to thoughts of preheating the shred and the common method for filling a press mold with a large billet of molten plastic: extrusion. A lot of groovy color swirls may be achieved with an extruder, or taken further, homogeneous blends- but while solving a lot of problems, takes something away that I want: control over color blending/fades/transitions. That got be thinking about melting the individual shred constituents while being conveyed to the mold *in the air *, delivered akin to how shotcrete is applied. Imagine: a vacuum hopper is loaded with shred, layered and mixed as desired; the vacuum uptakes the shred, conveyed over head to a sub-melt heating tube, then to a heat gun cyclone suspended over the mold, mounted on two sets of rollers to allow fluid positioning in two axis. Temperature control would be critical- too high too early, and shred will stick to the conveyor or burn, too cool, and semi molten shred is blown from the mold box rather than sticking. The over-the-top Rube Goldberg wackiness of it is both highly appealing to me and simultaneously daunting. (edited)

Here's a case of "there's more than one way to skin a cat" If it were me, I'd extrude and allow it to drop into a heated mould. I think this would help resolve trapped air bubbles but no way of knowing without actually trying. Ive seen this method used for producing sheets. Extrude, press, cool, and good results.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Here's a case of "there's more than one way to skin a cat" If it were me, I'd extrude and allow it to drop into a heated mould. I think this would help resolve trapped air bubbles but no way of knowing without actually trying. Ive seen this method used for producing sheets. Extrude, press, cool, and good results.

"...the common method for filling a press mold with a large billet of molten plastic: extrusion. A lot of groovy color swirls may be achieved with an extruder, or taken further, homogeneous blends- but while solving a lot of problems, takes something away that I want: control over color blending/fades/transitions." Good thought, though. (edited)

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Reviewing the plans and BOM for the Sheet Press, I could find no specification for the grade of steel- low carbon, alloyed, whatever. Can anyone provide insight?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Reviewing the plans and BOM for the Sheet Press, I could find no specification for the grade of steel- low carbon, alloyed, whatever. Can anyone provide insight?

Sheet press is nothing crazy, just mild steel. I know someone who has a couple sheet presses and they're experiencing a failure, the press surface is more concave these days. Seems like the support wasn't designed strong enough or someone overloaded the press (countless times). So a 2cm mould will produce a large sheet that's close to 2cm around the edges but at about 8cm or so inward from the edge, the plastic dips in to about 1cm.

5:28 AM

So if you're building one and want to work the hell out of it, don't be afraid to improve the support structure.

2

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Thinking about strategies for filling a high volume press mold to limit entraining air got me thinking about staged melting of layers of shred- a thin layer of shred, followed by application of heat, followed by more shred, repeat as needed; in the case of my intended application, that might require approximately forever. That led to thoughts of preheating the shred and the common method for filling a press mold with a large billet of molten plastic: extrusion. A lot of groovy color swirls may be achieved with an extruder, or taken further, homogeneous blends- but while solving a lot of problems, takes something away that I want: control over color blending/fades/transitions. That got be thinking about melting the individual shred constituents while being conveyed to the mold *in the air *, delivered akin to how shotcrete is applied. Imagine: a vacuum hopper is loaded with shred, layered and mixed as desired; the vacuum uptakes the shred, conveyed over head to a sub-melt heating tube, then to a heat gun cyclone suspended over the mold, mounted on two sets of rollers to allow fluid positioning in two axis. Temperature control would be critical- too high too early, and shred will stick to the conveyor or burn, too cool, and semi molten shred is blown from the mold box rather than sticking. The over-the-top Rube Goldberg wackiness of it is both highly appealing to me and simultaneously daunting. (edited)

that is how I been making pots for severalyears. vides are up on the Precious Plastic community YT channel

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3:42 AM

Heaters finally arrived. We have been ordering from a local manufacturer for the last 6 months or so, because the prices are nearly equal to China, and no messing with import or warranty issues. Left is our new heaters. 85mm Inside diameter x 200mm long 1000 watts. right is the small injection mold heaters. the square is the 600 watt compression molder heater.

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3:45 AM

size comparison.

I got an Idea to simplify the sheet press design and eliminate the binding issues.

5:08 AM

I make my frame from 2x2 inch x 6mm thick angle bar.

5:08 AM

the frame is the linear guide also

5:08 AM

and use v groove rollers

5:09 AM

Attached to some 12mm thick steel plate with 6mm thick flat bar as the stiffening ribs.

5:10 AM

and I reduce the height of the machine to 75cm. with added adaptor to connect scaffhold caster wheel.

5:10 AM

but this will allow the machine to be turned sideways and hand carried thru a standard size doorway, then the wheels re attached.

5:12 AM

It has been something I have been thinking about for our Siragao sheet press project. how to reduce the costing and make it capable of being moved thru a standard size doorway,

Butte (PP Philippines)

and I reduce the height of the machine to 75cm. with added adaptor to connect scaffhold caster wheel.

"I got an Idea to... from 2x2 inch x 6mm thick... the frame is the linear guide also and.... Attached to some.... steel plate with.... as the stiffening ribs... and I reduce the.... to 75cm....with added adaptor to.... this will allow the machine to be turned sideways and hand carried thru a standard size doorway...." How much do you reckon that will weigh? According to Fusion360, the stock sheet press weighs in at over 1500 lbs.

no idea,

why about this instead of a hydraulic jack? it has more spring so it can apply constant pressure, and because it is low enough cost, you could use multiple bags to press over a bigger area making the press more even. especially if all pumbed together,

9:22 AM

I was using air bag jacks on my smaller molder but they are not longer available at a low cost. I found these with nearly the same capacity and travel as the jack at 2099 pesos vs 13k for the jack

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Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"I got an Idea to... from 2x2 inch x 6mm thick... the frame is the linear guide also and.... Attached to some.... steel plate with.... as the stiffening ribs... and I reduce the.... to 75cm....with added adaptor to.... this will allow the machine to be turned sideways and hand carried thru a standard size doorway...." How much do you reckon that will weigh? According to Fusion360, the stock sheet press weighs in at over 1500 lbs.

I tried to get a few guy to try and pick up a sheet press once. The sheet press didnt move. haha

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I tried to get a few guy to try and pick up a sheet press once. The sheet press didnt move. haha

Exactly! How much press would be left after you made it light enough to be flipped to move through a door? A worthwhile project, no doubt- but no small challenge. Let's say you saved weight by not using mild steel- well, that would drive the costs up even more. I've seen some folks use lots of aluminum extrusions for their machines, but that strikes me as the opposite of accessible- the price tags are huge. (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Exactly! How much press would be left after you made it light enough to be flipped to move through a door? A worthwhile project, no doubt- but no small challenge. Let's say you saved weight by not using mild steel- well, that would drive the costs up even more. I've seen some folks use lots of aluminum extrusions for their machines, but that strikes me as the opposite of accessible- the price tags are huge. (edited)

These teams would like a word: https://ce.lafayette.edu/student-opportunities/steel-bridge-team/

Stephen Kurtz

Steel Bridge Team

4:55 PM

You can build really strong, really lightweight stuff but you have to design and manufacture it really well

4:57 PM

they can't cross the blue lines in the middle of the floor when they build, so they have to hand carry/assemble the bridge in place then stack metal on it and prove it won't break: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DmXvI3M-O4

AISC

Join the Student Steel Bridge Competition Team!

Reminds me of the toothpick bridges we made in high school physics class. My little one held something like 800 lbs in weight before I decided to stop them from adding more.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Y2iGcaYjFAU?feature=share

Precious Plastic Philippines

precious plastic Philippines sheet press mods

6:41 AM

this one has a 90cmx90cm press area.

6:42 AM

using the frame as the linear rails with v groove rollers. had too much problem with binding using the pro design.

6:43 AM

the 12mm steel plate arrives this afternoon.

6:44 AM

we have been getting typhoon/monsoon rain here for a few days so all the steel is getting rusty. nothing a bit of rust converter wont fix.

Butte (PP Philippines)

the 12mm steel plate arrives this afternoon.

"....we have been getting typhoon/monsoon rain here for a few day...." 90+ mph winds were being reported. Hope you and yours are OK. This roller design experiment is super worthwhile- will be great to hear what you discover, what solutions/choices develop on this path.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"....we have been getting typhoon/monsoon rain here for a few day...." 90+ mph winds were being reported. Hope you and yours are OK. This roller design experiment is super worthwhile- will be great to hear what you discover, what solutions/choices develop on this path.

plastic lumber cooling tank overheating issue. Been beating my head on this problem since the v3 extrusion machine. I tried using a water pump, oil cooler radiator and a fan in a homemade heat exchanger but it is not really keeping up with the heat. After 4 hours the water is too hot to touch. So here is my idea. I weld flat bar on the bottom of the tank like radiator fins, re/use the fan, and use my small aquarium pump to circulate the water. Additional adding a fan to blow over the top of the tank. With the new extrusion machine coming online, I have a huge amount of cooling to take care of, as changing the water every few hours is not sustainable. wish me luck.

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1

Butte (PP Philippines)

plastic lumber cooling tank overheating issue. Been beating my head on this problem since the v3 extrusion machine. I tried using a water pump, oil cooler radiator and a fan in a homemade heat exchanger but it is not really keeping up with the heat. After 4 hours the water is too hot to touch. So here is my idea. I weld flat bar on the bottom of the tank like radiator fins, re/use the fan, and use my small aquarium pump to circulate the water. Additional adding a fan to blow over the top of the tank. With the new extrusion machine coming online, I have a huge amount of cooling to take care of, as changing the water every few hours is not sustainable. wish me luck.

I think you need to consider the cold side of your system, you could calculate your thermal inputs and best possible heat transfer out of the tank to the air but I think you'll find the plastic has too high of heat transfer to the water compared to your heat exchanged to the air

5:44 AM

So you need a larger radiator area, a chiller, a ground/water to water heat exchanger (ie: buried tubing loop or a pond, lake, ocean to pump water through), evaporative cooling, or something else to transfer away heat (edited)

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5:47 AM

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cooling_tower#/media/File:Cooling_Tower_Fill_Material.jpg

Cooling tower

A cooling tower is a device that rejects waste heat to the atmosphere through the cooling of a coolant stream, usually a water stream, to a lower temperature. Cooling towers may either use the evaporation of water to remove process heat and cool the working fluid to near the wet-bulb air temperature or, in the case of dry cooling towers, rely so...

Butte (PP Philippines)

plastic lumber cooling tank overheating issue. Been beating my head on this problem since the v3 extrusion machine. I tried using a water pump, oil cooler radiator and a fan in a homemade heat exchanger but it is not really keeping up with the heat. After 4 hours the water is too hot to touch. So here is my idea. I weld flat bar on the bottom of the tank like radiator fins, re/use the fan, and use my small aquarium pump to circulate the water. Additional adding a fan to blow over the top of the tank. With the new extrusion machine coming online, I have a huge amount of cooling to take care of, as changing the water every few hours is not sustainable. wish me luck.

"After 4 hours the water is too hot to touch. So here is my idea. I weld flat bar on the..." "So you need a larger radiator area, a chiller, a ground/water to water heat exchange...." Undoubtedly, some version of these would work- but what if you didn't have the resources for an energy intensive cooling system, or for building out a heat transfer system? The great thing here is you are able to quantify your need in gallons of heated water per X hours of production. Your goal isn't to cool the water- entropy will do that all on its own, given opportunity. So, give it the opportunity- let the hot water leave the bath, and cool water be drawn in from an external storage tank. This could even be passive, elevation allowing. You could have one or more discreet tanks if you don't want a constant exchange- empty the hot into tank A, fill with the cool from tank B, four hours later repeat the cycle with tank C; meanwhile, tank A is insulated from environmental radiation on the bottom and sides, open on top to release its thermal bounty into the sky. Or not: for most of the warm months, you receive epic rainfall; with rainwater collected from the roof, hot water could feed the garden, a virtuous cycle. This could be a passive, non-electric system with minimum material investment. So don't cool the baby- throw out the bath water! (edited)

Butte (PP Philippines)

plastic lumber cooling tank overheating issue. Been beating my head on this problem since the v3 extrusion machine. I tried using a water pump, oil cooler radiator and a fan in a homemade heat exchanger but it is not really keeping up with the heat. After 4 hours the water is too hot to touch. So here is my idea. I weld flat bar on the bottom of the tank like radiator fins, re/use the fan, and use my small aquarium pump to circulate the water. Additional adding a fan to blow over the top of the tank. With the new extrusion machine coming online, I have a huge amount of cooling to take care of, as changing the water every few hours is not sustainable. wish me luck.

have you tried pumping your cooling water through an old car radiator or AC Condenser coil submerged in a larger pool of water? (larger heat exchanger)

Hi all, I'm about to start an extruder build, and I'm eying this kit for the screw/barrel/heaters. Does this look like a good choice/is this design current? Main use for the moment is going to be making recycled 3D printer filament and possibly some occasional injection molding. Aiming for a low-cost build that would be able to work as a modest starter machine in case I decide to try and make a small local business out of it, or a capable hobbyist machine if I don't. Thoughts? https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256803303803333.html?gatewayAdapt=Msite2Pc4itemAdapt

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update on the linear guides. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/aCZnujaagGQ they did not get the rollers tight enough on the frame so I had them fix that after this video

Precious Plastic Philippines

compression molder 2 precious plastic

1

all installed, flipped on the right side now but we are getting heavy rain. So that will have to continue Monday, weather permitting

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Theo

Hi all, I'm about to start an extruder build, and I'm eying this kit for the screw/barrel/heaters. Does this look like a good choice/is this design current? Main use for the moment is going to be making recycled 3D printer filament and possibly some occasional injection molding. Aiming for a low-cost build that would be able to work as a modest starter machine in case I decide to try and make a small local business out of it, or a capable hobbyist machine if I don't. Thoughts? https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3256803303803333.html?gatewayAdapt=Msite2Pc4itemAdapt

Thanks for the heads up on Aliexpress. I guess there are a lot of plastic recycling machines, has anyone tried any of these? They actually have videos in the listings to show their operation.

tonelessbod

Thanks for the heads up on Aliexpress. I guess there are a lot of plastic recycling machines, has anyone tried any of these? They actually have videos in the listings to show their operation.

Double or triple the cost to account for import taxes, customs, freight forwarding services, docking fees, etc, etc, etc.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Double or triple the cost to account for import taxes, customs, freight forwarding services, docking fees, etc, etc, etc.

I thought all of those only apply for vehicle purchasing?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Double or triple the cost to account for import taxes, customs, freight forwarding services, docking fees, etc, etc, etc.

@tonelessbod this depends on several factors. Butnmy philosophy is hope for the best and expect the worst. I've had many things shipped with aliexpress to Indonesia without issue but now there's always customs fees. Shopee somehow has a deal with the government or something so there's never customs fees. All depends on where you live and what site you're using.

tonelessbod

Thanks for the heads up on Aliexpress. I guess there are a lot of plastic recycling machines, has anyone tried any of these? They actually have videos in the listings to show their operation.

i build the pneumatic machine. it works. example above. similar design with a 100x300mm pneumatic cylinder. steel frame not aluminum. that extrusion is a copy of the filament makers that been out for nearly a decade. shredder on the other hand is a crap shoot. they send out aluminum core motors, and its made with 1mm sheet metal. Which you will not discover until it arrvies. (edited)

Butte (PP Philippines)

i build the pneumatic machine. it works. example above. similar design with a 100x300mm pneumatic cylinder. steel frame not aluminum. that extrusion is a copy of the filament makers that been out for nearly a decade. shredder on the other hand is a crap shoot. they send out aluminum core motors, and its made with 1mm sheet metal. Which you will not discover until it arrvies. (edited)

You got a site where I can take a look? Also what is the shot size of yours ?

tonelessbod

You got a site where I can take a look? Also what is the shot size of yours ?

its a clone of the buster beagle mk3 is all

Butte (PP Philippines)

plastic lumber cooling tank overheating issue. Been beating my head on this problem since the v3 extrusion machine. I tried using a water pump, oil cooler radiator and a fan in a homemade heat exchanger but it is not really keeping up with the heat. After 4 hours the water is too hot to touch. So here is my idea. I weld flat bar on the bottom of the tank like radiator fins, re/use the fan, and use my small aquarium pump to circulate the water. Additional adding a fan to blow over the top of the tank. With the new extrusion machine coming online, I have a huge amount of cooling to take care of, as changing the water every few hours is not sustainable. wish me luck.

Hey butte, i’ve built my own cooling machine and it works great just add a pile of radiators 2mts and make drop breaker using a perfored plate so when the water fell from the tubes the plate stops the normal flow of the water and change them into small drops, so the air extractor can make the magic and evaporate the warm drops to help us Cold the rest of the water. It’s works with my 130mm screw extrusion machine so it should super cold yours.

Oscar Cornejo

Hey butte, i’ve built my own cooling machine and it works great just add a pile of radiators 2mts and make drop breaker using a perfored plate so when the water fell from the tubes the plate stops the normal flow of the water and change them into small drops, so the air extractor can make the magic and evaporate the warm drops to help us Cold the rest of the water. It’s works with my 130mm screw extrusion machine so it should super cold yours.

Photos? (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Photos? (edited)

Before the tower it takes over 4hs to get colder (with 12 beams + moulds = 950kg) but now it just take an hour because the moulds are to wide.

1

Oscar Cornejo

Before the tower it takes over 4hs to get colder (with 12 beams + moulds = 950kg) but now it just take an hour because the moulds are to wide.

Well mine is not quite that big, maybe I can get away with a truck radiator. and a 80 watt fan...

1

tonelessbod

Thanks for the heads up on Aliexpress. I guess there are a lot of plastic recycling machines, has anyone tried any of these? They actually have videos in the listings to show their operation.

I'd love to hear from you how it goes. I'm also thinking on ordering over Aliexpress for my first machine

Butte (PP Philippines)

Well mine is not quite that big, maybe I can get away with a truck radiator. and a 80 watt fan...

Butte, your shredder is super cool!! Would love to buil something like that, does it works with plastic bags?

my plastic shredder does work with bags, but it needs a dust collector to suck it thru the screen. that said, with bags, its simpler to feed it straight into the extrusion machine, but you need a rather large one to do that with. even 5hp extrusion i find can gag when i put big bags in. It would have to be something to cram the material in like those plastic sticks that you use to feed meat into a meat grinder. (edited)

1:26 AM

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/q50qsYvu62Q see how she is using that plastic thing to push it into the screw that feeds the meat grinder.

Mama Bell’s Home

Using my Kitchenaid Meat Grinder for the first time (fresh ground c...

Butte (PP Philippines)

my plastic shredder does work with bags, but it needs a dust collector to suck it thru the screen. that said, with bags, its simpler to feed it straight into the extrusion machine, but you need a rather large one to do that with. even 5hp extrusion i find can gag when i put big bags in. It would have to be something to cram the material in like those plastic sticks that you use to feed meat into a meat grinder. (edited)

I can feed my the extrusion machine with bags but they have to be dry otherwise they get stuck, at it’s it happened to me but I would like to shred them

Oscar Cornejo

I can feed my the extrusion machine with bags but they have to be dry otherwise they get stuck, at it’s it happened to me but I would like to shred them

the v3 is much better at processing bags. I sold one the other day for just that. no screen. they will mix it with concrete.

1

Could you "pre-melt" the bags or bags to make a slug that you could then feed into the shredder?

HAL_9000

Could you "pre-melt" the bags or bags to make a slug that you could then feed into the shredder?

You ain't putting sludge in any shredder I have to maintain!

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

You ain't putting sludge in any shredder I have to maintain!

Unless maybe it's a Meat Grinder type shredder?

NJ90210

Unless maybe it's a Meat Grinder type shredder?

Unless it has a heating element built in, anticipate seizing on cooling.

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Unless it has a heating element built in, anticipate seizing on cooling.

friction heat generated and siezing is likely. also most meat grinders are generally a cheap aluminum cast. made at the lowest price possible with some steel bits, blades and dies.. plaease do not run plastic thru them. Youtube is full of peoples disastorous attempts using them on plastic (edited)

https://youtu.be/8ORMHDUKEQI another way to make a sheet press frame. Since the first video, I made the box longer to prevent racking. This is the cold press. It will have phenolic plywood on it. several sheets laminated together instead of steel to save on costs. the hot press posted earlier is getting a mod to make the inside box longer. I went with 12mm steel plate vs the thinner plate and flat bar to simplify the build. It came out to be lower costing, and less distortion from the excessive welding of flat bar on to the plate. That said I am unsure this design could be scaled much beyond the 90x90cm press size here. Testing next week. It will not be painted, rather rust converter applied and linseed oil finish. Linseed can handle heat better than most paints and less prone to scratches. Yes I am aware of high temp spray paint but over a machine this big it will add to the costing and the point is to make a durable low cost machine by examining every part of the design.

Precious Plastic Philippines

August 5, 2023

1

8:30 PM

Hi everyone I run my press for the first time today and i did everything by pp tutorial - but i have cracs and uneaven distribution of plastic somehow - bottom side looks ok but also have cracks. Can someone please advise me? Thank You!!

aleksandarmasic92

Click to see attachment 🖼️

What's the material? What temperature was it heated to? How long was the transition interval from that to room temperature?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

What's the material? What temperature was it heated to? How long was the transition interval from that to room temperature?

hdpe, all one kind, 200degrees, i was melting for 1 hour and put it on cold press for another one hour

aleksandarmasic92

hdpe, all one kind, 200degrees, i was melting for 1 hour and put it on cold press for another one hour

My understanding is the typical HDPE sheet press temperature is ~220°C (in retrospect, this is likely too high). (edited)

3:42 PM

Some other thoughts: how full was the mold? Was the jack repeatedly extended to account for compression and shrinking of the part in both the hot and cold press?

the mold was 20.5 kg, and yes we jack it repeatedly on both preses

To my knowledge, cold pressing time is twice as long as hot pressing.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

My understanding is the typical HDPE sheet press temperature is ~220°C (in retrospect, this is likely too high). (edited)

Sort of! 200c is the upper limit for HDPE so when you run hotter you'll risk overheating the plastic. This is when the plastic breaks down and starts sticking to everything. The trick is to have things timed perfectly so you can run hotter and faster but also time things just right. Too long at too high of temperatures will cause you a big headache with a lot of scraping.

3

it more looks like sinkage marks. more pressure during cooling, and way longer cool cycle. i let mine go overnight. just stacking one sheet on top of the other all day. plastic is funny like that. 3d printing forums have all sorts of info on plastic tempering.

aleksandarmasic92

Click to see attachment 🖼️

I've only had cracks one time and that was with PP. So I don't have any advice for that other than to try again. But as for the sheet, it looks like it was underfilled. The bumpy surface can be from a couple things but my guess is there's simply not enough material. You are pressing it in the hot press right? My assumption is yes....and then moved to cold press...

1:43 AM

You might need to try a few things to figure out what works.

Hello everyone, I’m producing small beams and I’m having some issues with depression in the middle of the beams, what could be the reasons? The temperature? The quantity of material ? Thanks in advance

3:04 PM

The main material is HDPE

Oscar Cornejo

Hello everyone, I’m producing small beams and I’m having some issues with depression in the middle of the beams, what could be the reasons? The temperature? The quantity of material ? Thanks in advance

did you pre heat the mold all the way ? Did you use enought material ??

I didn’t have that Issue before with big moulds

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Crystallization shrinkage? In which case, the solution is usually "more pressure, longer"... but can also be "less heat, with rapid cooling", or "cooling the mold while maintaining heat and and pressure to the injection". Let us know what you discover. (edited)

It was the temperature, it was to high

10:19 PM

3

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Do you have a reliable thermostat? -what was the problem temperature? -what the successful? (edited)

Well, I forgot that I set the temperature to 280 degrees and normally I worked with 120-180 max 220 at the end, I over heat the extruder cause I haven’t used it for almost a month

1

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

My observation has been that this is caused by air bubbles getting in and they create a vacuum and pull in during cooling. If you were to cut the planks/beams where they are collapsed, you'll find an air bubble.

1

7:02 AM

Overheating in your case caused the material to offgas which created air bubbles.

2

1

increasing from 5hp to 10hp extrusion machine more than doubled the production. 40 kilo per hour. 90 second for a 1 kilo board. https://youtu.be/jT8Y9JJhbmg

Precious Plastic Philippines

Precious Plastic Philippines extrusion machine industrial

2

1

2

Butte (PP Philippines)

increasing from 5hp to 10hp extrusion machine more than doubled the production. 40 kilo per hour. 90 second for a 1 kilo board. https://youtu.be/jT8Y9JJhbmg

Yeah congrats

!!!

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

My observation has been that this is caused by air bubbles getting in and they create a vacuum and pull in during cooling. If you were to cut the planks/beams where they are collapsed, you'll find an air bubble.

Thanks a lot Ben!! It was the overheat

Butte (PP Philippines)

increasing from 5hp to 10hp extrusion machine more than doubled the production. 40 kilo per hour. 90 second for a 1 kilo board. https://youtu.be/jT8Y9JJhbmg

In usd what Is the difference in your zone for this upgrade in motors? Ill check diferencial here, I Guess Is biiig

huge. just the savings in overhead with the big machine is going to be incredible. Although this particular machine and 2 more like it are going to municipal waste sort centers to recycle plastic on site.

1:48 AM

because it extruded so fast, it was filling the mold before it cooled a lot which meant less back pressure.

1

1:50 AM

I still need to do more testing, and the power switch motor start, circuit breaker panel has to be totally rebuilt to industrial standard. It is better to over build than to have a warranty service call, that involves airline tickets and boat trips to get to the jobsite

Butte (PP Philippines)

I still need to do more testing, and the power switch motor start, circuit breaker panel has to be totally rebuilt to industrial standard. It is better to over build than to have a warranty service call, that involves airline tickets and boat trips to get to the jobsite

Butte you should do a bypass like I do so you won’t stop producing , I can send you a photo in case you want to, or do the same machine that my bro @aleksandarmasic92. And What do you do to the molds to don’t bend, cause they seem to be thin no? Thank you in advance

1:55 PM

1

Oscar Cornejo

Butte you should do a bypass like I do so you won’t stop producing , I can send you a photo in case you want to, or do the same machine that my bro @aleksandarmasic92. And What do you do to the molds to don’t bend, cause they seem to be thin no? Thank you in advance

i never cant find time to share this with all

so guys @everyone im sharing pictures now so if anyone has any questions about it be free to ask me - its drum system - you dont need to stop machine to change molds and multiple kind of molds can fit at one time

3

9:55 PM

i can share tehcnical drawings but basicly its very simple so if anyone needs help be free to contact me

9:56 PM

and on the bottom its a cooling tank with water and you dont need to cool water

9:58 PM

4

9:59 PM

just hope u gonna list me as a contributor if you make this on your machines

in the end im sharing this for free

aleksandarmasic92

i never cant find time to share this with all

so guys @everyone im sharing pictures now so if anyone has any questions about it be free to ask me - its drum system - you dont need to stop machine to change molds and multiple kind of molds can fit at one time

I like the videos

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

a diversion valve is on the wish list. as far as mold thickness they are 1.5mm tubing with 6mm flat bar welded outside to get a total tall thickness of 7.5mm

1

5:26 AM

the carrousel design I seen Ciera recycling do. I talked wth the owner, he told me that they are not much more effective than just a diverter valve on the smaller systems.

5:29 AM

https://www.youtube.com/@PaulVanderpool

Paul Vanderpool

5:29 AM

he makes the big stuff. lots of good ideas there

Butte (PP Philippines)

a diversion valve is on the wish list. as far as mold thickness they are 1.5mm tubing with 6mm flat bar welded outside to get a total tall thickness of 7.5mm

well - before we produced 17beams per 8 hours shift, now we produce 20 and its mych easier for the workers, im thinking even to make it automatik

1

aleksandarmasic92

well - before we produced 17beams per 8 hours shift, now we produce 20 and its mych easier for the workers, im thinking even to make it automatik

Great bro!!!, i would re produce your job but I dont how you can pull out the beams so easily, I used to do that with the big Posts but it’s challenging to do that with the 2*3 inches beams

we just cool it. First its out of tank for 23 mins than it spends 23 mins in the water and after that you only pull it with hand... We make like 50/50 pp/hdpe

1

aleksandarmasic92

well - before we produced 17beams per 8 hours shift, now we produce 20 and its mych easier for the workers, im thinking even to make it automatik

interesting, looks like something I will have to try. you get enough seal between the machine and the mold with just the vise grip? ir is there some sort of flange there?

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

a quick upgrade to this and cheap, is to wrap some muffler/exhaust wrap on this. then secure with kapton tape. A maybe 15usd upgrade. It will make it more difficult to accidently electrocute from those terminals. A litte mica sheet in the muffler wrap will add even better protection, or some high temp RTV silicone. I use the muffler wrap on my new machines and it was a dramatic shortening of time for the machine to come up to operating temp. (edited)

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

interesting, looks like something I will have to try. you get enough seal between the machine and the mold with just the vise grip? ir is there some sort of flange there?

no, just a vise grip but this is just first extruder with 2kw motor, i ll try on my 2 bigger 5kw motors but i think it ll hold

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

My observation has been that this is caused by air bubbles getting in and they create a vacuum and pull in during cooling. If you were to cut the planks/beams where they are collapsed, you'll find an air bubble.

9:21 PM

You were dam right bro

1

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Is there a vent in the end of your mold?

I use a vent and I'll see this happen too when settings aren't right or material has some issues.

Oscar Cornejo

Click to see attachment 🖼️

Hey, now you know!

Oscar Cornejo

You were dam right bro

Those are almost half void!!! (edited)

Hi! I keep geting problems with my sheetpress - tryed temperatures from 200 to 240 degrees, cooling from 3 to 24hours but still i get this uneaven surface. Is there some reccomendations what should i do to avoid this? Material is HDPE and thickness is 20mm. Thank you!

aleksandarmasic92

Hi! I keep geting problems with my sheetpress - tryed temperatures from 200 to 240 degrees, cooling from 3 to 24hours but still i get this uneaven surface. Is there some reccomendations what should i do to avoid this? Material is HDPE and thickness is 20mm. Thank you!

Temp is too high bro

1

i taught so too..but we tryed on 200degrees and still same(and plastic is very hard on 200 degrees we cant press it) then i tryed 210-220-230-240 even 250 - on 250 is smallest but smoke comes out all the time so i think that means plastic is burning

aleksandarmasic92

i taught so too..but we tryed on 200degrees and still same(and plastic is very hard on 200 degrees we cant press it) then i tryed 210-220-230-240 even 250 - on 250 is smallest but smoke comes out all the time so i think that means plastic is burning

Maybe this helps you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY&t=24s

Precious Plastic

The ultimate guide to make the PERFECT sheet | 2023

1

Marcela - Community Manager @ PP

Maybe this helps you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEqPjhllYTY&t=24s

@Marcela - Community Manager @ PP thank uu, but i watched... and they dont really talk about anything they do with machines (or anything) just that they "really care about quality"

also their machine is a bit different - they have really thick aluminum plates for pressing.. Thank You! ❤️

1

aleksandarmasic92

@Marcela - Community Manager @ PP thank uu, but i watched... and they dont really talk about anything they do with machines (or anything) just that they "really care about quality"

also their machine is a bit different - they have really thick aluminum plates for pressing.. Thank You! ❤️

The folks in Costa Rica talked about a few key points in their process, including the importance of intermittent jacking of the machine to maintain pressure on both the heat press and the cooling press, in addition to those very-thick press plates. Can we get a look at your set up? Did you follow the V4 Sheet Press and Cooling Press plans? (edited)

aleksandarmasic92

Hi! I keep geting problems with my sheetpress - tryed temperatures from 200 to 240 degrees, cooling from 3 to 24hours but still i get this uneaven surface. Is there some reccomendations what should i do to avoid this? Material is HDPE and thickness is 20mm. Thank you!

Hey! Could you be over-filling your molds? You've got plenty of flash at the sides of your molds, then there is what looks like shrikage adjacent the mold frame, then doming in the center! How have you calibrated your thermostats? (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Hey! Could you be over-filling your molds? You've got plenty of flash at the sides of your molds, then there is what looks like shrikage adjacent the mold frame, then doming in the center! How have you calibrated your thermostats? (edited)

i ll share my setup in the morning, thank you. And about overfilling - i tryed from 19 kg to 22.4 kg - my molds are 1x1m 2cm thick - i calculated 19.4kg of plastic fits into (0.97 density of hdpe) tryed with less and tryed with more(5% + as reccomended) but all the same. Thank You

aleksandarmasic92

i ll share my setup in the morning, thank you. And about overfilling - i tryed from 19 kg to 22.4 kg - my molds are 1x1m 2cm thick - i calculated 19.4kg of plastic fits into (0.97 density of hdpe) tryed with less and tryed with more(5% + as reccomended) but all the same. Thank You

Ahh- you posted about this before! To read what was discussed before- and see more pictures of the problem sheets: https://discord.com/channels/586676777334865928/598887270636060694/1138213997666128013

Reviewing the Costa Rica video again, they indicate pressing HDPE at only 160 C - so, about 40 degrees/20% less than the coolest temperature you indicated. How have you calibrated the thermostats on the hot press? Are you stacking multiple sheets in the cold press, or only single sheets? How long is the transition time between leaving the hot and entering the cold presses? (edited)

aleksandarmasic92

i taught so too..but we tryed on 200degrees and still same(and plastic is very hard on 200 degrees we cant press it) then i tryed 210-220-230-240 even 250 - on 250 is smallest but smoke comes out all the time so i think that means plastic is burning

You wrote, "... we tryed on 200degrees and still same(and plastic is very hard on 200 degrees we cant press it)". 1) at 200 C, how long did you allow all those ~20 kilos of plastic to heat before pressing? 2) at those times when you "can't press it", was the spring fully compressed?

aleksandarmasic92

Hi! I keep geting problems with my sheetpress - tryed temperatures from 200 to 240 degrees, cooling from 3 to 24hours but still i get this uneaven surface. Is there some reccomendations what should i do to avoid this? Material is HDPE and thickness is 20mm. Thank you!

There's a pattern on the surface that's VERY similar between the two. My guess is that the thickness of what you're pressing the sheets with is too thin or not supported enough and when pressed, it's deforming the mould which then deforms the plastic.

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

There's a pattern on the surface that's VERY similar between the two. My guess is that the thickness of what you're pressing the sheets with is too thin or not supported enough and when pressed, it's deforming the mould which then deforms the plastic.

The pattern looks a lot like the skeleton of a small press- was why I asked to see the press, and if they followed the plans...

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Reviewing the Costa Rica video again, they indicate pressing HDPE at only 160 C - so, about 40 degrees/20% less than the coolest temperature you indicated. How have you calibrated the thermostats on the hot press? Are you stacking multiple sheets in the cold press, or only single sheets? How long is the transition time between leaving the hot and entering the cold presses? (edited)

Thanks for response - I tryed 160 and 180 degrees today - also with even 17kg of material wich is a lot less then "it should" be - all the same (but somehow on 180 degrees was much smaller "gaps"). We tryed leaving it into cool press (only one sheet at the time) for 1,3,5h and hall night - all the same - transition time is maybe 1 or 2 minutes only

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

You wrote, "... we tryed on 200degrees and still same(and plastic is very hard on 200 degrees we cant press it)". 1) at 200 C, how long did you allow all those ~20 kilos of plastic to heat before pressing? 2) at those times when you "can't press it", was the spring fully compressed?

"how long did you allow all those ~20 kilos of plastic to heat before pressing?" i didnt know we should allow plastic to heat before pressing

we press it immediatly after we put it into hot press but of course we preheat hot press first - does this mean we shouldnt press it at first until plastic start melting?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

The pattern looks a lot like the skeleton of a small press- was why I asked to see the press, and if they followed the plans...

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug heres the pictures of the presses

3:26 PM

3:27 PM

Thank you all for helping! ❤️

Hi guys I am just statting up and have tried my injection machine for the first time today. I am unable to get the plastic fully in the mold. Might it be due to a low temperature or is there something elset that i am missing? Also how about cleaning out the injection machine? cant find any info on it.

aleksandarmasic92

"how long did you allow all those ~20 kilos of plastic to heat before pressing?" i didnt know we should allow plastic to heat before pressing

we press it immediatly after we put it into hot press but of course we preheat hot press first - does this mean we shouldnt press it at first until plastic start melting?

"...does this mean we shouldnt press it at first until plastic start melting?" Fun fact: early versions of the press featured a separate oven where the plastic was melted in-mold before being pressed. I believe the first step is to close the faces of the mold to melt the plastic. Have you put a straight edge across your mold surface? Has applying pressure to cold plastic ballooned the aluminum plates?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"...does this mean we shouldnt press it at first until plastic start melting?" Fun fact: early versions of the press featured a separate oven where the plastic was melted in-mold before being pressed. I believe the first step is to close the faces of the mold to melt the plastic. Have you put a straight edge across your mold surface? Has applying pressure to cold plastic ballooned the aluminum plates?

God damn

im gonna try it in the morning

so i ll put the plastic into hot pres and i ll put it close to pressure first then i ll press it after 10 mins

hope now it ll work, thank you!

aleksandarmasic92

God damn

im gonna try it in the morning

so i ll put the plastic into hot pres and i ll put it close to pressure first then i ll press it after 10 mins

hope now it ll work, thank you!

Be sure to examine the plate for flatness first. Will 20 kilos of plastic melt in 10 minutes?!? (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Be sure to examine the plate for flatness first. Will 20 kilos of plastic melt in 10 minutes?!? (edited)

i said 10 but ill pay attention untill is melted ofc

@aleksandarmasic92 how thick is your heater plate and what material is it? I assume aluminium. If the material isn't supportive enough, it will press on the grid and cause surface deformations. If you're simply melting it and then moving it to the cold press when it's still hot, it's ok so long as the cold press is more rigid and doesn't deform.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

@aleksandarmasic92 how thick is your heater plate and what material is it? I assume aluminium. If the material isn't supportive enough, it will press on the grid and cause surface deformations. If you're simply melting it and then moving it to the cold press when it's still hot, it's ok so long as the cold press is more rigid and doesn't deform.

its aluminium 10mm thick and underneat is supported by grid like standard press... Cold pres is same system with grid just instead of aluminum we put steel 8mm thick and its welded to the grid - i dont think this is deforming... But as @Christopher - Unmake Plastic said maybe my mistake is i put pressure immediately after putting plastic into hot press- i ll try to let it melt a little bit today and then press it Thank you!

1

same again... im about to go mad...dont know what to do any more...

11:26 AM

aleksandarmasic92

same again... im about to go mad...dont know what to do any more...

Assuming what your thermostat is reporting has been verified (say, by an infrared thermometer), and that press cavities containing the heating elements are insulated, and the press plates free of deformation- the other commonality between all these failures shared here since 08/07/2023 is GREEN. Were it me, I'd want to eliminate the possibility something specific to this plastic is contributing to the failure by using an entirely different source you know to be free of moisture. (edited)

1

@Christopher - Unmake Plastic yep, i verified with a infrared termometer its -10 degrees difference by what termostat is telling but i put 10 degrees more on it - and about plastic i tryed other types too, all hdpe but different source - all the same...

3:38 PM

i tryed from 160 to 250 degrees and all the same... i just dont understand whats happening

3:43 PM

from 14 to 23 kg...

aleksandarmasic92

its aluminium 10mm thick and underneat is supported by grid like standard press... Cold pres is same system with grid just instead of aluminum we put steel 8mm thick and its welded to the grid - i dont think this is deforming... But as @Christopher - Unmake Plastic said maybe my mistake is i put pressure immediately after putting plastic into hot press- i ll try to let it melt a little bit today and then press it Thank you!

"...Cold pres is same system with grid just instead of aluminum we put steel 8mm thick and its welded to the grid..." Disclaimer: I don't know if this is possible- I'm just hunting for an explanation of why your results are diverging. Those 8mm steel plates represent A LOT more mass than aluminum plates. So what? That means they also have the ability to suck a lot of heat out the sheet. (Yet, aluminum also conducts heat ~15 times better than steel...) As we know, uneven cooling of HDPE will promote uneven crystallization- so disparate shrinking/warping. In some of the images you've shared, sheets demonstrate not just localized deformation, but cupping of the entire sheet. Some of the texture, though, suggests overheating or moisture or peculiarities in the shred; since you've used a variety of HDPE sources, can we eliminate the plastic itself as cause? Presuming it isn't the product of repeated recycling, I suppose so. So that leave us with moisture, cooling, and pressure. Were it me, I'd want to eliminate any contribution the cold press is making- first, just by leaving a sheet to cool without pressing, then by isolating the plastic from the cold press plates- say, by sandwiching the plastic between 2 sheets of MDF. One last question: do both your hot and cold presses incorporate a spring at the top of the jack piston, linking the jack to the press plate? This is important because in both locations the plastic is not just being compressed, but is actively shrinking- to maintain contact pressure, the springs are essential. (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"...Cold pres is same system with grid just instead of aluminum we put steel 8mm thick and its welded to the grid..." Disclaimer: I don't know if this is possible- I'm just hunting for an explanation of why your results are diverging. Those 8mm steel plates represent A LOT more mass than aluminum plates. So what? That means they also have the ability to suck a lot of heat out the sheet. (Yet, aluminum also conducts heat ~15 times better than steel...) As we know, uneven cooling of HDPE will promote uneven crystallization- so disparate shrinking/warping. In some of the images you've shared, sheets demonstrate not just localized deformation, but cupping of the entire sheet. Some of the texture, though, suggests overheating or moisture or peculiarities in the shred; since you've used a variety of HDPE sources, can we eliminate the plastic itself as cause? Presuming it isn't the product of repeated recycling, I suppose so. So that leave us with moisture, cooling, and pressure. Were it me, I'd want to eliminate any contribution the cold press is making- first, just by leaving a sheet to cool without pressing, then by isolating the plastic from the cold press plates- say, by sandwiching the plastic between 2 sheets of MDF. One last question: do both your hot and cold presses incorporate a spring at the top of the jack piston, linking the jack to the press plate? This is important because in both locations the plastic is not just being compressed, but is actively shrinking- to maintain contact pressure, the springs are essential. (edited)

I'm a big fan of this master class in troubleshooting.

1

aleksandarmasic92

@Christopher - Unmake Plastic yep, i verified with a infrared termometer its -10 degrees difference by what termostat is telling but i put 10 degrees more on it - and about plastic i tryed other types too, all hdpe but different source - all the same...

One more idea to eliminate any contribution to failure by the cold press: leave the sheet to cool in the hot press, rejacking as necessary, just as you would with the cold press.

Unfortunately a lot of the "magic" of making stuff is just smashing your head on the wall and keeping careful notes/observations until you start to figure out what's going on. @Christopher - Unmake Plastic doing an excellent job here

3

@Christopher - Unmake Plastic you re saving my ass right now

thank you from my ❤️ ! This thing about cooling and steel shets has scence. I left one sheet in hot pres just now as u told me so we ser what happens. Also im gonna try to leave sheet to cool without pressing and i ll put one more sheet into cold press but with mdf on top and bottom! thank you! and about springs i dont have it yet - i wait for them to arrive - but i taught their service is just not to damage jack by putting too much pressure but what do you know..maybe not constant pressure is making this even if we jack it every 5 mins. Thank you! ❤️ i owe u guys a dinner

aleksandarmasic92

@Christopher - Unmake Plastic you re saving my ass right now

thank you from my ❤️ ! This thing about cooling and steel shets has scence. I left one sheet in hot pres just now as u told me so we ser what happens. Also im gonna try to leave sheet to cool without pressing and i ll put one more sheet into cold press but with mdf on top and bottom! thank you! and about springs i dont have it yet - i wait for them to arrive - but i taught their service is just not to damage jack by putting too much pressure but what do you know..maybe not constant pressure is making this even if we jack it every 5 mins. Thank you! ❤️ i owe u guys a dinner

"and about springs i dont have it yet - i wait for them to arrive" Mystery solved, me thinks. I predict the sheets left in the hot press will still suffer irregularities. (edited)

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

"and about springs i dont have it yet - i wait for them to arrive" Mystery solved, me thinks. I predict the sheets left in the hot press will still suffer irregularities. (edited)

Here's the result from hotpress only. Just a little bit of irregularity but much much much better!!

1

aleksandarmasic92

Here's the result from hotpress only. Just a little bit of irregularity but much much much better!!

Woooohooo! -getting there! It occurs to me that all those failed sheets might be repressed as-is, without need for regrinding.

can a soldering fume extractor work kit for extracting plastic fume ? (edited)

Alex_recycles and creates

can a soldering fume extractor work kit for extracting plastic fume ? (edited)

it's the right type of filter (activated charcoal) but whether it would be effective for long or how you'd evaluate whether it was working or not are issues

Hello everyone Will a shirt press machine do a good job producing small sheets?

1

gokudo21

Hello everyone Will a shirt press machine do a good job producing small sheets?

I'd be curious too! Tbh I don't think it will get hot enough. But I'd love to hear people's experience.

8:21 AM

I use a t-shirt press for vinyl and heat setting paint on shirts

just to share this is the resoult without any pressure on cooling

1

12:02 PM

2

1

aleksandarmasic92

Click to see attachment 🖼️

I was thinking of making big oven instead of sheet press then after melting the plastic in the big oven I put the cooled sheet into a wood thickness planer to uniform it, would that work? (edited)

1

gokudo21

Hello everyone Will a shirt press machine do a good job producing small sheets?

Yep, works fine but you have to flip the sheet at least once since it only heats on the top. Heat up heat press, put a thin sheet of something (steel/aluminum/etc) sheet on the bottom, add plastic in an even layer, put something (steel/aluminum/etc) sheet on the top, press. Definitely adjust it so it's got light pressure on it, they're not really designed to smash rigid things

waterppk

Yep, works fine but you have to flip the sheet at least once since it only heats on the top. Heat up heat press, put a thin sheet of something (steel/aluminum/etc) sheet on the bottom, add plastic in an even layer, put something (steel/aluminum/etc) sheet on the top, press. Definitely adjust it so it's got light pressure on it, they're not really designed to smash rigid things

Thanks for the info really helpful, I think I will try doing it in the oven then press it.

gokudo21

I was thinking of making big oven instead of sheet press then after melting the plastic in the big oven I put the cooled sheet into a wood thickness planer to uniform it, would that work? (edited)

Friends at https://instagram.com/norm.al.living use ovens and planers and also have one sheet press. Ovens will always have a crappy sided, the top surface always has a brownish look, but they always put their sheets through a planer. This helps with all the uneven issues one might have. Process is fairly simple. Melt in oven Take out of oven and put in wooden clamps Wait till cold Remove from mould and put through planer. I don't recall how much work they do after planing their sheets though. I assume sanding.

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2

gokudo21

Hello everyone Will a shirt press machine do a good job producing small sheets?

Yes you can get good results with some practice. We have been making 12"x12" sheets up to 3/8" thick. We sandwich the plastic between two sheets of aluminum and turn it over so that both sides get exposure to the heat. We also leave it to cool in the press under pressure so that it doesn't wrinkle and deform as it shrinks.

1

I am building an extruder soon ,what ph should I get? the shop has from 1ph to 5.5ph ,I am thinking 3ph but I am afraid it won't be enough for beams. (edited)

I think you mean HP? Phases are either single or 3 phase wiring

waterppk

I think you mean HP? Phases are either single or 3 phase wiring

I meant horse power sorry for the confusion.

JohnNephew

Yes you can get good results with some practice. We have been making 12"x12" sheets up to 3/8" thick. We sandwich the plastic between two sheets of aluminum and turn it over so that both sides get exposure to the heat. We also leave it to cool in the press under pressure so that it doesn't wrinkle and deform as it shrinks.

that sounds really cool. Do you ever try to make very thin sheets, under 1mm?

maize

that sounds really cool. Do you ever try to make very thin sheets, under 1mm?

Haven't specifically. We've done some that are maybe 1mm but the thickness isn't very consistent.

JohnNephew

Haven't specifically. We've done some that are maybe 1mm but the thickness isn't very consistent.

Yes that's my assumption also. I would love to be recycling scraps that come from my plastic stencils

JohnNephew

Haven't specifically. We've done some that are maybe 1mm but the thickness isn't very consistent.

I reckon dimensioning to the millimeter scale would be the work of rollers and/or mandrel, rather than a press.

1

Guys just want to share update on my sheets - we put MDF 20 mm on top and bottom on cold press and we got really good resolt @Christopher - Unmake Plastic thank you so much! you really help me ❤️ (edited)

1

4

2:40 PM

green is top - black is bottom

1

2

aleksandarmasic92

green is top - black is bottom

Excellent news! -but dont' neglect those springs: you will be much happier with them!

gokudo21

Hello everyone Will a shirt press machine do a good job producing small sheets?

Yes, I use one all the time. To make things go quicker, I used two presses and put one heat plate at the top and one at the bottom.

1

4:21 PM

Has anyone tried to make larger sheets by putting several t-shirt presses together in a grid ? I have had great success with the small sheets, but they are not terribly useful other than for art.

Another question: What is the thickest sheet that anyone has made with a PP sheetpress that came out good?

Inspired Plastics

Another question: What is the thickest sheet that anyone has made with a PP sheetpress that came out good?

@valerine wedoo has made some pretty thick ones, right? do you know how thick were they?

aleksandarmasic92

@Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug heres the pictures of the presses

better with the rollers?

Inspired Plastics

Another question: What is the thickest sheet that anyone has made with a PP sheetpress that came out good?

we did earlier this week. needed a lower temp, it came out like stained glass.

aleksandarmasic92

Guys just want to share update on my sheets - we put MDF 20 mm on top and bottom on cold press and we got really good resolt @Christopher - Unmake Plastic thank you so much! you really help me ❤️ (edited)

our cold press we omitted the steel plate and used a couple sheets of phenolic plywood with great results

gokudo21

I was thinking of making big oven instead of sheet press then after melting the plastic in the big oven I put the cooled sheet into a wood thickness planer to uniform it, would that work? (edited)

wood thickness planer on the sheets gave ours some very interesting results. it looked almost like the ancient Greek parquet tile.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

better with the rollers?

we have rollers on cold press and sliders on hot press and i think the system with rollers is smoother

our latest machines are roller, very happy with the results. But we still need to experiment with the heater placement for best results. the corners are not fully melting

Butte (PP Philippines)

our cold press we omitted the steel plate and used a couple sheets of phenolic plywood with great results

i put mdf 20mm and now it looks great - i just have a small irregularity on sheet but i think when we put spring it will be absolutely perfect @Butte (PP Philippines) @Christopher - Unmake Plastic thank You guys!

️

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

our latest machines are roller, very happy with the results. But we still need to experiment with the heater placement for best results. the corners are not fully melting

we didnt make presses by the project completely - we used much less material and machines are a lot simpler and smaller - when i have a little bit of time (i have to make carousel on 2 extruders and to finalize sheet production) i ll share project

Is there any efforts for Precious Plastics to enter the 3d printing industry that someone can share with me?

Marcela - Community Manager @ PP

@valerine wedoo has made some pretty thick ones, right? do you know how thick were they?

8cm!

Mr.B

Is there any efforts for Precious Plastics to enter the 3d printing industry that someone can share with me?

I am building an extruder in hopes to recycle PET even though everyone is saying is hard. If I couldn't make PET filament I will just switch to another easier plastic.

1

9:27 PM

Check this out https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/recycle-plastic-waste-into-3d-printing-filament

Recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament

In this how to we show you how you can recycle plastic waste into 3d printing filament. There are some things to watch out for and different machines needed to make for the best results. You can check out our How-To video here: https://youtu.be/IcmKFDxsUgA Feel free to visit our website :) https://www.qitech.de/en/industries

awesome, cant wait to check this out

Hi guys. Just want to share some updates from our factory in montenegro

7

5

1:20 PM

i ve found out that since we use carousel on extruders we dont need to cool molds in water because cycle is 60 mins and thats one more benefit of using carousel

1

aleksandarmasic92

Hi guys. Just want to share some updates from our factory in montenegro

What type of plastic are you extruding?

waterppk

What type of plastic are you extruding?

we use hdpe now, we used before mixture of hdpe and pp 50-50%, all works good. Profile we re extruding is 33x73mm 2meters long

1

Has anyone upgraded a paper/credit card shredder? Did you just need to upgrade the gears and increase the motor torque or did you need to get sharper and bigger cutting elements?

aleksandarmasic92

Hi guys. Just want to share some updates from our factory in montenegro

i still need the cooling.. 1 mold every 2 min now... desperately need a heat exchanger. the bigger 10hp extrusion was a huge boost in efficacy and saved in labor and overhead. you will be at this level soon when people get a taste of your product and want a lot of lumber. your setup is looking good (edited)

2

Butte (PP Philippines)

i still need the cooling.. 1 mold every 2 min now... desperately need a heat exchanger. the bigger 10hp extrusion was a huge boost in efficacy and saved in labor and overhead. you will be at this level soon when people get a taste of your product and want a lot of lumber. your setup is looking good (edited)

Thank You Butte. 2 minutes are so quick maan

aleksandarmasic92

Hi guys. Just want to share some updates from our factory in montenegro

weldone guys, visitors are welcomed? how many mould from the same size you guys are using? do you guys are heating the mound or the machine is so fast that the plastic dont cool and deforms inside the mould?

Lixeiro

weldone guys, visitors are welcomed? how many mould from the same size you guys are using? do you guys are heating the mound or the machine is so fast that the plastic dont cool and deforms inside the mould?

thank u! ofcorse u re welcome

️

10:34 AM

we dont heat molds

10:34 AM

and no deforming

Oh, many thanks, I assume montenegro is a warm place.

Hello, could and one tell me if it is possible to processed plastics bags on the extrusion pro, can they be shredded first if ?and one has more information on the process it would be much appreciated thanks

Lixeiro

Oh, many thanks, I assume montenegro is a warm place.

Mediterranean temperate climate

️

CJI-Eng

Hello, could and one tell me if it is possible to processed plastics bags on the extrusion pro, can they be shredded first if ?and one has more information on the process it would be much appreciated thanks

it is, problem is u need to push it all the time...bit boring

aleksandarmasic92

it is, problem is u need to push it all the time...bit boring

Okay thanks Maby an auger on a small motor could help

CJI-Eng

Okay thanks Maby an auger on a small motor could help

possible... i use motor even on flakes to have constant feed on screw

Okay thanks, what about woven bags have you ever tryed to process that

aleksandarmasic92

Thank You Butte. 2 minutes are so quick maan

its crazy, need 3 guys to run it now. When the divider head gets installed they boys will really be running.

aleksandarmasic92

it is, problem is u need to push it all the time...bit boring

stick, and yes its boring. super. there is a device called a crammer that forces it in, but so far I have not gotten anything to work well using a small auger and gear motor to force it in.

someone may have investigated or can give me data so that I can come to a conclusion about the load capacity of the hdpe material? Namely, I make round columns with a diameter of 70 mm and I constantly get questions about the load capacity? Thanky

aleksandarmasic92

someone may have investigated or can give me data so that I can come to a conclusion about the load capacity of the hdpe material? Namely, I make round columns with a diameter of 70 mm and I constantly get questions about the load capacity? Thanky

Plastic suffers from creep stress, a column will temporarily support high loads but if you load it continuously it will likely fail/slump at substantially lower loads

aleksandarmasic92

someone may have investigated or can give me data so that I can come to a conclusion about the load capacity of the hdpe material? Namely, I make round columns with a diameter of 70 mm and I constantly get questions about the load capacity? Thanky

http://courses.washington.edu/me354a/Lab6a.pdf

4:14 PM

That link may help you figure creep stress or understand the concept. I am sure this link does not belong in this channel though.

thank you @wacomd @HAL_9000 , and @HAL_9000 u re right, i should make this question on #plastic Thank you

waterppk

Plastic suffers from creep stress, a column will temporarily support high loads but if you load it continuously it will likely fail/slump at substantially lower loads

due to the nature of using recycled resins from many different companies all mixed together, it simply is not possible to get an accurate test. this issue was brought up in several videos from recycled plastic lumber manufacturers in Canada and Australia. I personally do not warranty my materials for any strength and only sell it for non structural use. there is too much liability both civil and possible criminal if you are to sell this as a structural material, and it fails with property damage or injuries.

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Butte (PP Philippines)

i still need the cooling.. 1 mold every 2 min now... desperately need a heat exchanger. the bigger 10hp extrusion was a huge boost in efficacy and saved in labor and overhead. you will be at this level soon when people get a taste of your product and want a lot of lumber. your setup is looking good (edited)

Same happened to me that I have and order of 17 000 lumbers

Oscar Cornejo

Same happened to me that I have and order of 17 000 lumbers

I ordered a mitsubishi truck radiator, 1/4 hp water pump and 80 watt car radiator fan. the car fan is going to run off a battery charger. Ironically the DC radiator fan and battery charger was 1/3 the cost of a 220v AC exhaust fan

Butte (PP Philippines)

I ordered a mitsubishi truck radiator, 1/4 hp water pump and 80 watt car radiator fan. the car fan is going to run off a battery charger. Ironically the DC radiator fan and battery charger was 1/3 the cost of a 220v AC exhaust fan

So you finally got a solution? If you make a bigger tank it will help you a lot too, cause the quantity of water cooling + the water pump, it will Slow down the temperature easily. Also, you should make a bypass Butte, like the photo I sent of my extrution machine, you won’t stop producing lumbers.

splitter valve is for my personal machine

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7:11 AM

the previous 3 were sold

daphne23

Has anyone upgraded a paper/credit card shredder? Did you just need to upgrade the gears and increase the motor torque or did you need to get sharper and bigger cutting elements?

Mmm not my case but I was thinking about it hahah torque will be extremely necessary

Butte (PP Philippines)

splitter valve is for my personal machine

Nice tho

️

heater bands for it arrived a few hours ago. the screw is sitting on the floor, and the boys may start on the frame tomorrow

1

7:14 AM

it will have 5 zones of heat instead of 4, added amp meters, upgraded pulleys, some changes to the caster wheels, and the feed hopper will have a stirrer

7:17 AM

although its kind of annoying that every time I come up with some innovation this other dude here in town copies me and tries to take my customers by undercutting the prices. He lowered his v3 shredder blade kit assembled down to $324usd

so I have to always work to stay ahead.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

although its kind of annoying that every time I come up with some innovation this other dude here in town copies me and tries to take my customers by undercutting the prices. He lowered his v3 shredder blade kit assembled down to $324usd

so I have to always work to stay ahead.

Woooow, so bad

What is a good HP motor for an extruder ?

Alex_recycles and creates

What is a good HP motor for an extruder ?

You'll get a good answer if you're more specific with your question. What sort of extrusion output are you trying to achieve? @Butte (PP Philippines) has gone larger than any Precious Plastic machine on the website. But you could also go smaller like 3d printing size I suppose.

(edited)

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

You'll get a good answer if you're more specific with your question. What sort of extrusion output are you trying to achieve? @Butte (PP Philippines) has gone larger than any Precious Plastic machine on the website. But you could also go smaller like 3d printing size I suppose.

(edited)

I’m talking about extrusion molding what’s a good motor HP for that ?

Alex_recycles and creates

I’m talking about extrusion molding what’s a good motor HP for that ?

If I asked you how many HP a car should have, you're going to say it depends on the purpose, right? Extrusion pro uses 4hp motor. If you use this as a base point and you want double the capacity by increasing the extrusion barrel and screw... you might need an 8hp motor.

Hello my name is Pierre-Alexis, I am studying in Mechanical engineering and I work in a PVC extrusion company that makes door and windows framing, I make all the tooling necessary. For my final year's project I would love to make an extruder for my school for making my part in recycling plastic, teaching purposes and to show to other student the process. I wonder where can I get the extrusion screw for the EXT-PRO 1.0 and where can I get the specs for the motor used.

Xavier

Hello my name is Pierre-Alexis, I am studying in Mechanical engineering and I work in a PVC extrusion company that makes door and windows framing, I make all the tooling necessary. For my final year's project I would love to make an extruder for my school for making my part in recycling plastic, teaching purposes and to show to other student the process. I wonder where can I get the extrusion screw for the EXT-PRO 1.0 and where can I get the specs for the motor used.

I think the Bazar website is currently down but this link will likely work later: https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/extruder-pro/extruder-pro-parts/extrusion-pro-screw-ready-stock-available/

hello, I recently acquired a sheetpress. Do I also need a cool down press to go with is or is it possible to get good results without one?

(Te)KrachtigeKruidkoek

hello, I recently acquired a sheetpress. Do I also need a cool down press to go with is or is it possible to get good results without one?

I have the same question

(Te)KrachtigeKruidkoek

hello, I recently acquired a sheetpress. Do I also need a cool down press to go with is or is it possible to get good results without one?

If you do it this way your production capacity will likely be one sheet per day. Its doable

5:54 AM

Let's say 30 minutes for machine to warm up. 1 hour working. 4 hours for cooling because the machine is hot and insulated. So 5 hours plus preheating time for one sheet. Thats a lot of sitting around!

I am not sure if this should be in the machine section: but what are the general rules for what type and thickness of metal to use for a small sheet press?

Butte (PP Philippines)

there ya go

Hi Butte, what is the diameter of the center hole, 30mm?

Inspired Plastics

I am not sure if this should be in the machine section: but what are the general rules for what type and thickness of metal to use for a small sheet press?

We have done as thick as 20 mm in a large sheet press. I would assume it depends of the pressure you can achieve.

9:15 PM

Hi all! If I was thinking of selling a shredder pro and a sheet press pro. Would you recommend auction or the precious plastic bazaar? Of course in both cases I would share the link here.

Hello everyone! I’m building a shredder and have found an electric motor that has 89 rpm and 0,55 kw. Will that work?

ViggoSjoberg

Hello everyone! I’m building a shredder and have found an electric motor that has 89 rpm and 0,55 kw. Will that work?

Maybe the single blade one, with a chain reduction between the gearmotor and the shredder. 0.55kw are a very small power.

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Maybe the single blade one, with a chain reduction between the gearmotor and the shredder. 0.55kw are a very small power.

Okey thanks for the response! What power would you recommend and what rpm should I have?

https://www.blocket.se/annons/110644696. could this one work? 2.2 kw with variable rpm

Blocket - Sveriges största marknadsplats, bilar, bostäder, möbler m...

ViggoSjoberg

https://www.blocket.se/annons/110644696. could this one work? 2.2 kw with variable rpm

That variable speed gearmotor is rated for a small torque. I don't have precise data on the "official" shredders power needing, but the best advice I can give you is to find a gearmotor with double reduction, first one with parallel gears, second one worm gear. The higher the worm gear ratio, the worse its efficiency and the smaller the torque you can take from. So, to achieve for example a 90:1 total ratio, it's better to use a 3:1 parallel gears coupled to a 30:1 worm gear. The 3:1+30:1 worm gear compared to a 90:1 has around 30% more efficiency (30% less power wasted as heat) and more than doubled peak torque (meant as the maximum you can have before the risk of damaging the worm gear). This because a higher ratio means having smaller gear module (the gears have smaller teeth), so less surface contact for a given torque, and a smaller tooth section. (edited)

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

That variable speed gearmotor is rated for a small torque. I don't have precise data on the "official" shredders power needing, but the best advice I can give you is to find a gearmotor with double reduction, first one with parallel gears, second one worm gear. The higher the worm gear ratio, the worse its efficiency and the smaller the torque you can take from. So, to achieve for example a 90:1 total ratio, it's better to use a 3:1 parallel gears coupled to a 30:1 worm gear. The 3:1+30:1 worm gear compared to a 90:1 has around 30% more efficiency (30% less power wasted as heat) and more than doubled peak torque (meant as the maximum you can have before the risk of damaging the worm gear). This because a higher ratio means having smaller gear module (the gears have smaller teeth), so less surface contact for a given torque, and a smaller tooth section. (edited)

Sounds very smart! will look into it. Have found a motor with and worm gear that moves as fast as an garage port so feels like it should work, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1362071238000005?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A2cf6e4f1-c57b-49f6-9f21-0c291021d2b1. this one

️. very cheap also so feels like its worth it

ViggoSjoberg

Sounds very smart! will look into it. Have found a motor with and worm gear that moves as fast as an garage port so feels like it should work, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1362071238000005?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A2cf6e4f1-c57b-49f6-9f21-0c291021d2b1. this one

️. very cheap also so feels like its worth it

I don't want to be annoying, but I think that's not a good one. For a shredder you need something tough. It isn't a garage door, it's a machine who have to resist frequent torque peak and to run for consistent period of time. That also comes with a two pole 2800rpm motor, this means that the worm gear ratio is high to reduce the speed, even if there's no photo of the gearbox label, it is high for sure. As said, you have to search for a good one. You can find something bigger without the primary gearbox, or something a little smaller if equipped with the primary gearbox. A small one with a high worm gear ratio is inefficient and fragile. Unfortunately that's the core of the question, I was also in trouble when I had to choose one, and I asked engineers who work in that industry field to have the answers.

okey i understand

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I don't want to be annoying, but I think that's not a good one. For a shredder you need something tough. It isn't a garage door, it's a machine who have to resist frequent torque peak and to run for consistent period of time. That also comes with a two pole 2800rpm motor, this means that the worm gear ratio is high to reduce the speed, even if there's no photo of the gearbox label, it is high for sure. As said, you have to search for a good one. You can find something bigger without the primary gearbox, or something a little smaller if equipped with the primary gearbox. A small one with a high worm gear ratio is inefficient and fragile. Unfortunately that's the core of the question, I was also in trouble when I had to choose one, and I asked engineers who work in that industry field to have the answers.

should a motor with 2,2KW 900 rpm b-3 work. there is also a motor with 2.2kw and 700 rpm that costs 100 € more. then i dont need to have such a high ratio worm gear

ViggoSjoberg

should a motor with 2,2KW 900 rpm b-3 work. there is also a motor with 2.2kw and 700 rpm that costs 100 € more. then i dont need to have such a high ratio worm gear

Yes, starting with a 8 pole motor is another option, but take in account 8 pole motors are bigger, and if you need to buy the worm gear separately it has to match with the motor size, so it can be expensive.

Hey all, my university Precious Plastic club is thinking of making the EXTPRO 1.2 extruder, but I cannot find anywhere in the provided design what type of welding we should do. At my university workshop we have TIG and MIG welding machines, but we would like to know which one we should use so we can get new and old members practicing on the right machine asap

alpineadam

Hey all, my university Precious Plastic club is thinking of making the EXTPRO 1.2 extruder, but I cannot find anywhere in the provided design what type of welding we should do. At my university workshop we have TIG and MIG welding machines, but we would like to know which one we should use so we can get new and old members practicing on the right machine asap

@alpineadam the answer depends on your skillset, wants, and needs. I'm pretty sure you're going to want to be mig welding as it's faster and doesn't require as much skill. You could also arc weld these parts.

We built the Injection Molder 2.1 with MIG and that went fine so if it's similar MIG should work fine again

Buenas tardes, quién tiene algún contacto de una empresa que fabrique extrusoras en Colombia

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

That variable speed gearmotor is rated for a small torque. I don't have precise data on the "official" shredders power needing, but the best advice I can give you is to find a gearmotor with double reduction, first one with parallel gears, second one worm gear. The higher the worm gear ratio, the worse its efficiency and the smaller the torque you can take from. So, to achieve for example a 90:1 total ratio, it's better to use a 3:1 parallel gears coupled to a 30:1 worm gear. The 3:1+30:1 worm gear compared to a 90:1 has around 30% more efficiency (30% less power wasted as heat) and more than doubled peak torque (meant as the maximum you can have before the risk of damaging the worm gear). This because a higher ratio means having smaller gear module (the gears have smaller teeth), so less surface contact for a given torque, and a smaller tooth section. (edited)

Marvelous explanation dear friend, thank you

5:22 PM

@Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna You build shredders nop? Cause I can’t find any in

, I have the normal shredders, wich works perfect but I would love to have a big shredder like 1mt x 80cm so I can shred big balds.

Oscar Cornejo

Marvelous explanation dear friend, thank you

You're welcome.

I had that information from the engineers of the shop from where I bought mine. Unfortunately (at least in the low term) since I had to reduce the power consumption of my machines as much as I can (with 6kw three phases we have to keep the laboratory and the bar running), I had to buy a new gearmotor to meet my specifications. Since I'm running a two shaft 256mm shredder with 1.1kw motor, it seems that the result is achieved...

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

You're welcome.

I had that information from the engineers of the shop from where I bought mine. Unfortunately (at least in the low term) since I had to reduce the power consumption of my machines as much as I can (with 6kw three phases we have to keep the laboratory and the bar running), I had to buy a new gearmotor to meet my specifications. Since I'm running a two shaft 256mm shredder with 1.1kw motor, it seems that the result is achieved...

I have 7,5kw motor for the shredder, 37,5kw for the extrution machine and 29,4kw for the granulator, so if I can reduce my energy consumption will be great, cause the resistances/ heaters of the extrution machine drain other 22kw extra

Oscar Cornejo

@Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna You build shredders nop? Cause I can’t find any in

, I have the normal shredders, wich works perfect but I would love to have a big shredder like 1mt x 80cm so I can shred big balds.

No, I'm working as lathe machinist, but we are sub-contractors for a lot of fields, from pure parts in subcontact (for big industries like Bonfiglioli Gearmotor -we made some turning, milling, drilling and tapping on planetary gearboxes- and other) and a lot of parts in consignment for fields like heavy duty earth moving machines, welding machines, pipe calendring machines, food industry etc. I built my shredder, injection molding machine and various molds only thanks to the boss who allowed me to make them after work!

2

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

No, I'm working as lathe machinist, but we are sub-contractors for a lot of fields, from pure parts in subcontact (for big industries like Bonfiglioli Gearmotor -we made some turning, milling, drilling and tapping on planetary gearboxes- and other) and a lot of parts in consignment for fields like heavy duty earth moving machines, welding machines, pipe calendring machines, food industry etc. I built my shredder, injection molding machine and various molds only thanks to the boss who allowed me to make them after work!

Such a generous boss dude

1

Oscar Cornejo

I have 7,5kw motor for the shredder, 37,5kw for the extrution machine and 29,4kw for the granulator, so if I can reduce my energy consumption will be great, cause the resistances/ heaters of the extrution machine drain other 22kw extra

I haven't experience on big machines, made my shredder on a design I developed for myself, I made the blades very close to each other to allow them to cut the plastic instead of shredding, there's 0.03mm between the rotary ones and 0.3mm between the static and the rotary ones, but this comes with some downsides, first of all they need to be machined from a solid bar (not single blades and spacers on a shaft, all in one piece), secondly any hard material like a steel chip or something like that can damage them badly. Cutting instead of shredding reduces the power needed because there's very little plastic rubbing on the blades, and that's the reason because I can drive it with only 1.1kw. To reduce the risk of damage the blades are made from quench hardened Ni Cr Mo steel, then nitrided to ~60HRC.

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I haven't experience on big machines, made my shredder on a design I developed for myself, I made the blades very close to each other to allow them to cut the plastic instead of shredding, there's 0.03mm between the rotary ones and 0.3mm between the static and the rotary ones, but this comes with some downsides, first of all they need to be machined from a solid bar (not single blades and spacers on a shaft, all in one piece), secondly any hard material like a steel chip or something like that can damage them badly. Cutting instead of shredding reduces the power needed because there's very little plastic rubbing on the blades, and that's the reason because I can drive it with only 1.1kw. To reduce the risk of damage the blades are made from quench hardened Ni Cr Mo steel, then nitrided to ~60HRC.

Thanks a lot, the problem was that I couldn’t find any supplier yet

1

seeking a machine builder for shredder, extrusion, injection mold. a few tools as well. thank you

where do I comment on the files available on the website: "preciousplastic.com"? because there is a discrepancy between the compressed files. for example, in the general kit of more than 700mb, the Shredder files are from version 2.0, but in the "starterki-machine" kit, there are files from version 2.1. In other words, whoever downloads the full version will be out of date.

samneto

where do I comment on the files available on the website: "preciousplastic.com"? because there is a discrepancy between the compressed files. for example, in the general kit of more than 700mb, the Shredder files are from version 2.0, but in the "starterki-machine" kit, there are files from version 2.1. In other words, whoever downloads the full version will be out of date.

#archived-websites-and-platforms might be best

We repurposed two heat presses (likely shirt presses) to make a double sided heat press. The black lower heater is 2200W 120V, the upper cream plate is ~2700W 208V

2

5:16 AM

uses a pneumatic cylinder with integrated guide rods (to keep from bending the cylinder)

RobotDigg has a Precious Plastic extrusion screw and barrel. If you follow the link below, there are three part numbers:

PP-EB3426L530 - this is the barrel.
PP-ES600L - this is a 600 mm long screw with 24.6 mm diameter
PP-ES588L-D257 - this is a 588 mm long screw with 25.7 mm diameter Does anyone know why there are two versions of the screw? The description contains this sentence: "There are 2 options for the screw diameter and design of the connection." Two precious Plastic drawings are also shown; the one marked "UPDATED" has a 600 mm length while the older one has 578 mm length. The diameters of both appear to be 24.6 mm. https://m.robotdigg.com/product/1719/Precious-Plastic-design-single-screw-and-barrel-for-extrusion-machine#

(edited)

Precious Plastic design single screw and barrel for extrusion machi...

Plastic recycling extrusion or injection Precious Plastic advocates for plastic recycling. Precious Plastic created machines that enable anyone to recycle plastic, open-source, and create a video for ...

Hi, I'm a student and I'm trying to make a small scale shredder. Could you suggest on how to make or where to buy the. blades needed for the shredder? Would 3D printing them work?

curious_person

Hi, I'm a student and I'm trying to make a small scale shredder. Could you suggest on how to make or where to buy the. blades needed for the shredder? Would 3D printing them work?

3d printing the blades? Using a typical fdm plastic 3d printer? Not saying that it is impossible, but you probably don't want to do it. Obviously using plastic (blades) to break down other plastic may result in blades that will wear down very quickly... You can find the blueprints on the PP website and order blades yourself through online shops who offer to sell and cut/mill metal sheets for you. But you can find blades/kits in the PP bazar which might be the easier solution.

2:00 PM

Apart from that I would rather ask what your intentions are? Is it a project for university? Do you want to start recycling on your own? Did you check if there are other workspaces/groups near your location that you may visit? Maybe you can also use their machines, collaborate with them, learn the basics from them and figure out first what you really need...

It's a project for a science competition regarding sustainability, thank you so much for your response!

curious_person

Hi, I'm a student and I'm trying to make a small scale shredder. Could you suggest on how to make or where to buy the. blades needed for the shredder? Would 3D printing them work?

3D printing isn't an option, blades have to shred, and if they are made in a material with a similar hardness to the material you need to shred, they can't work at all. From where are you from?

I'm from Singapore currently studying in the Philippines, thanks for your response! (edited)

8:19 AM

Also do you think these blades could work to cut the plastic??

curious_person

Also do you think these blades could work to cut the plastic??

Ok, I was trying to see if we are close enough, but I'm in Italy, so that's not the case. Those blades are meant to do another work, you need to source thicker steel plate laser cut ones (or cut in other ways) to shred.

How about making the blades from washers?

curious_person

Hi, I'm a student and I'm trying to make a small scale shredder. Could you suggest on how to make or where to buy the. blades needed for the shredder? Would 3D printing them work?

blade kit is 18500 pesos from me

1

number 4 of this series of extrusion machines. first 3 are in the field. still some issues getting everything online, and people trained. Not on our part, rather due to electric supply issues or rather a lack of power. Number 4 is my shop machine. Smaller size frame, same everything else. Wheels now removable, so once I get it in place, I can just lift the machine up, put on some feet and it is set. Divider head in the pipeline as budget allows. the heat exchanger is done. half hp water pump thru garden hose to a brand new toyota radiator, and 80 watt fan. I was going to use a isuzu truck radiator, but the toyota fit perfectly in the window opening. total cost for the heat exchanger was around 100usd.

1

2:54 AM

machines 5 and 6 of this series will have a upgraded panel with more amp meters, ground fault interrupter, and a few more mods to the drivetrain. not installed in the picture is the magnetic contact switch, e stop, indication lamps, and the motor is inoperable because I messed up and connected power directly to the starting capacitor. Awaiting a replacement capacitor. Also upgraded from 2 belt to 3 belt pulleys from the motor because of all the torque. and the motor mount has been changed from slot to a hinged plate. this makes for much simpler belt changing and install.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

number 4 of this series of extrusion machines. first 3 are in the field. still some issues getting everything online, and people trained. Not on our part, rather due to electric supply issues or rather a lack of power. Number 4 is my shop machine. Smaller size frame, same everything else. Wheels now removable, so once I get it in place, I can just lift the machine up, put on some feet and it is set. Divider head in the pipeline as budget allows. the heat exchanger is done. half hp water pump thru garden hose to a brand new toyota radiator, and 80 watt fan. I was going to use a isuzu truck radiator, but the toyota fit perfectly in the window opening. total cost for the heat exchanger was around 100usd.

This looks pretty awesome. Do you still need an auger to feed flakes down into the barrel?

CJI-Eng

Hello, could and one tell me if it is possible to processed plastics bags on the extrusion pro, can they be shredded first if ?and one has more information on the process it would be much appreciated thanks

Hi there. I looked into this. All the advice I received from here and other sources pointed to agglomeration to deal with soft plastics on a larger scale. Google plastic agglomerator for details. (edited)

1

Geoff (PBI NTB)

This looks pretty awesome. Do you still need an auger to feed flakes down into the barrel?

I spoke with Paul Vanderpool, the guy who has the Youtube vides of the big recycling machines. he told me that he uses a crammer for the flake and the bigger stuff like shrink wrap film is using a densifier. there are densifier videos on his channel. I have seen videos of the indians feeding films directly into the extrusion machine. Something I would like to try as I have a couple tons of brand new but reject foil sachet on the roll.

3:21 AM

my new extrusion screw has a mixing section on it that so far has worked well making lumber from foil sachet. It does not leave obvious metal flake like the extrusion pro machine

Inspired Plastics

I am not sure if this should be in the machine section: but what are the general rules for what type and thickness of metal to use for a small sheet press?

Hi there, I used 5mm plate. To make a small press 45x45 with 4x rice cooker elements ( -/+ 400watts each) top and bottom. It works pretty good.

3

4

1

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hi there, I used 5mm plate. To make a small press 45x45 with 4x rice cooker elements ( -/+ 400watts each) top and bottom. It works pretty good.

ooh that looks interesting

Butte (PP Philippines)

my new extrusion screw has a mixing section on it that so far has worked well making lumber from foil sachet. It does not leave obvious metal flake like the extrusion pro machine

Have you got an Amazon link to that small auger you showed me? A photo for kids here?

1

waterppk

We repurposed two heat presses (likely shirt presses) to make a double sided heat press. The black lower heater is 2200W 120V, the upper cream plate is ~2700W 208V

Very cool! I am not sure what you mean by the pneumatic cylinder, is that to add pressure ? What about the two machines slipping on each other, I am working on having a long set of machines, but was trying to figure out how to fix them so they don’t slip

Geoff (PBI NTB)

Hi there, I used 5mm plate. To make a small press 45x45 with 4x rice cooker elements ( -/+ 400watts each) top and bottom. It works pretty good.

Thanks.

Hi Everyone, quick question and request for assistance. In the last week one of my colleagues touched the heating element on our injection machine with a screwdriver. This caused the element to burn through and break the electrode connections. Since then i have replace the heating element with the exact duplicate. however the machine is showing some issues:

as a test i programmed the temperature of 100 celcius. the heating element starts heating but doesnt stop and goes well above the set 100 degrees. Anyone have any experience with this? Tried:
Recheck all wiring
Checked the programming of the temperature gage
Checked the thermo wire

(edited)

5:17 AM

curious_person

How about making the blades from washers?

Try asking to a laser cutting workshop, they aren't too expensive, and you are sure they can do the job as planned!

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Yes, starting with a 8 pole motor is another option, but take in account 8 pole motors are bigger, and if you need to buy the worm gear separately it has to match with the motor size, so it can be expensive.

Seems to be super hard to find anything that will work. But i have found this one that is 3 kw and not an worm gear. It puts out about 113 rpm. Does it work? recommend was 70 so it dosent seem so far from that

113rpm can be ok, you also can drive the motor with a VFD to keep the RPM at a lower value. You must do some research to find what's the maximum torque output the gearmotor can give, but that kind of reducer is tough and probably (almost certainly) it is adequate to take all the torque the motor can give. In my opinion is one of the best options you can find on the market!

7:29 PM

If you want I can help you to do some research, I need all the data you can find on it (labels, numbers on the casting etc)

Great! sil

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

113rpm can be ok, you also can drive the motor with a VFD to keep the RPM at a lower value. You must do some research to find what's the maximum torque output the gearmotor can give, but that kind of reducer is tough and probably (almost certainly) it is adequate to take all the torque the motor can give. In my opinion is one of the best options you can find on the market!

will send you the link and stuff!

Here is all the info he had on the machine. Second pic is the motor and the first is the gear

YBG90

Hi Everyone, quick question and request for assistance. In the last week one of my colleagues touched the heating element on our injection machine with a screwdriver. This caused the element to burn through and break the electrode connections. Since then i have replace the heating element with the exact duplicate. however the machine is showing some issues:

as a test i programmed the temperature of 100 celcius. the heating element starts heating but doesnt stop and goes well above the set 100 degrees. Anyone have any experience with this? Tried:
Recheck all wiring
Checked the programming of the temperature gage
Checked the thermo wire

(edited)

OK! Few things: Check position of your thermocouple. If it's too far from the heater it is mure suseptible for overshooting the desired temperature. Some overshooting does happen normally but usually it's somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees. Try setting the PID to a much lower temperature like 32. If you see the temperature going up to 100, then it sounds like the heating circuit is stuck on. Look at your PID. It has a light that turns on when the heater circuit is on. This means it's sending a signal to turn on your relay to provide power to the heaters. If you are suspecting that your heater is staying on, you will need to check the output from PID to relay to make sure the relay in the PID is not stuck on. With the machine off, disconnect the two wires that go to the relay from the PID. Turn the machine on, Set the temperature to below room tempersture. Check the output for the PID relay wires. The output is DC. If you're seeing some voltage, then you have a problem with the PID. If it's off, then hook it back up with the machine off. Disconnect the heater elements from the relay. Turn the machine on, check the relay output for AC voltage. If it's on when the PID is showing it's off, then there might be a relay issue. (edited)

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

OK! Few things: Check position of your thermocouple. If it's too far from the heater it is mure suseptible for overshooting the desired temperature. Some overshooting does happen normally but usually it's somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees. Try setting the PID to a much lower temperature like 32. If you see the temperature going up to 100, then it sounds like the heating circuit is stuck on. Look at your PID. It has a light that turns on when the heater circuit is on. This means it's sending a signal to turn on your relay to provide power to the heaters. If you are suspecting that your heater is staying on, you will need to check the output from PID to relay to make sure the relay in the PID is not stuck on. With the machine off, disconnect the two wires that go to the relay from the PID. Turn the machine on, Set the temperature to below room tempersture. Check the output for the PID relay wires. The output is DC. If you're seeing some voltage, then you have a problem with the PID. If it's off, then hook it back up with the machine off. Disconnect the heater elements from the relay. Turn the machine on, check the relay output for AC voltage. If it's on when the PID is showing it's off, then there might be a relay issue. (edited)

dont think the thermocouple is too far but will check it as well as the PID. thanks for the suggestion.

ViggoSjoberg

Here is all the info he had on the machine. Second pic is the motor and the first is the gear

1400rpm/12.62=~111rpm. With a variable frequency drive you can run the motor down to 25Hz to half the speed. Now I try to find some data about the torque you can take from the reduction stage.

Update: As you can see, the gearbox is old and you can't find data about it. But maybe I can manage to find something, since I know some people working in Bonfiglioli Trasmital (I'm living about 10km from the factory, and at job we make something like two trucks of planetary gearbox parts for them every week!). Now I try asking them.

Hahah GREAT! what a coincidence XD

ViggoSjoberg

Hahah GREAT! what a coincidence XD

That's it!

12:48 PM

12:54 PM

240Nm, that's not a big value for the shredder, but it's more than the torque the motor can give at that speed. So that gearmotor is tough enough to take all the torque the motor can give at full power. Good one! As said, with a VFD you can reduce the motor speed to the RPM needed.

If you decide to run it at 25hz with the VFD, take away the fan from the motor shaft and put an electric fan on the cover, it is needed to cool the motor at low RPM, as rule of thumb you need it if you run the motor at frequency lower than 40Hz!

Yes noted ✅ Thanks man for all the help thru the buying journey, really appreciate it! Will update with some pictures once I get the shredder put together

1

1:15 PM

Do you by any chance know the approximate weight of the motor plus the gearbox?

ViggoSjoberg

Do you by any chance know the approximate weight of the motor plus the gearbox?

I have no idea, I can estimate around 30/40kg since the gearbox seems cast iron.

2:12 PM

Maybe something more...

YBG90

dont think the thermocouple is too far but will check it as well as the PID. thanks for the suggestion.

In my opinion it's too far. I put my thermocouples in direct contact with the heaters and this would work OK without using insulation. Problem with your system might be that if there's any airflow, it's going to mess with the temperatures. If you insulate your heaters, it'll be more efficient and the temperatures will be more stable.

Butte (PP Philippines)

blade kit is 18500 pesos from me

Where is the location of this blade kit? I happen to be in the Philippines too. I went to Belmont Hardware to find some supplies needed for the plastic shredder, but I couldn't find any geared motors.

curious_person

Where is the location of this blade kit? I happen to be in the Philippines too. I went to Belmont Hardware to find some supplies needed for the plastic shredder, but I couldn't find any geared motors.

Antipolo city. I can do payment by gcash or bpi, shipping by lalamove, if in metro manila, or shipping by JRS if provincial or you can pick up. I am on google maps as Precious plastic Philippines. it is the Carigma extension location, not the sampaguita street location that was my old shop.

1:33 AM

09218230439

Ohhh ok thank you!

I'm getting frustrated trying to find plans for past versions of precious plastics shredding machines. All the kits I've recently found only include the version 3 pro, and that's a little over powered for my purposes. Can someone point me to the Plans for the vintage versions of the Shredder machines? is there an archive? I even failed searching the GitHub. User error I'm sure. I'd love some help?

NJ90210

I'm getting frustrated trying to find plans for past versions of precious plastics shredding machines. All the kits I've recently found only include the version 3 pro, and that's a little over powered for my purposes. Can someone point me to the Plans for the vintage versions of the Shredder machines? is there an archive? I even failed searching the GitHub. User error I'm sure. I'd love some help?

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/tree/master/3.%20Build Look at folder 1, I think this is what you're looking for?

precious-plastic-kit/3. Build at master · ONEARMY/precious-plastic-...

Precious Plastic Downloadpack. Contribute to ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit development by creating an account on GitHub.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/tree/master/3.%20Build Look at folder 1, I think this is what you're looking for?

Forgive me, my visual processing skills are much weaker than my tinkering skills, bu tthis appears to be the V3 Pro shredder? I'd love to find an archive of all the shredder versions so I can choose one that's most appropriate for my Solar Powered mobile plastic demonstration station. I have a sponsor willing to purchase or consign the manufacure of a kit that would be appropriate to run on the trailer, but I think v3 is overkilled and hard to power by the Sun.

1

5:37 AM

And thanks for Responding.

NJ90210

Forgive me, my visual processing skills are much weaker than my tinkering skills, bu tthis appears to be the V3 Pro shredder? I'd love to find an archive of all the shredder versions so I can choose one that's most appropriate for my Solar Powered mobile plastic demonstration station. I have a sponsor willing to purchase or consign the manufacure of a kit that would be appropriate to run on the trailer, but I think v3 is overkilled and hard to power by the Sun.

This is not shredder pro

5:47 AM

Perhaps I should just give a direct link... Haha https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/tree/master/3.%20Build/1.%20Shredder

precious-plastic-kit/3. Build/1. Shredder at master · ONEARMY/preci...

Precious Plastic Downloadpack. Contribute to ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit development by creating an account on GitHub.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Perhaps I should just give a direct link... Haha https://github.com/ONEARMY/precious-plastic-kit/tree/master/3.%20Build/1.%20Shredder

Thank you for trying to make it simple for me. The verticle motor makes it looke like the Shredder pro? the Horizontal motor is what I associate with the non-pro, smaller and less expensive build.

NJ90210

Thank you for trying to make it simple for me. The verticle motor makes it looke like the Shredder pro? the Horizontal motor is what I associate with the non-pro, smaller and less expensive build.

Ah I see how one could get confused. The motor side can be oriented in different ways and you'll find variations all over the world. For differentiating between shredder you should focus on how many blade shafts there are. One blade shaft is shredder, two is shredder pro. There's some other things too but those are what I zoom in on.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Ah I see how one could get confused. The motor side can be oriented in different ways and you'll find variations all over the world. For differentiating between shredder you should focus on how many blade shafts there are. One blade shaft is shredder, two is shredder pro. There's some other things too but those are what I zoom in on.

Thanks for clearing that up. I wonder if plans for the first version is still around somewhere?

NJ90210

Thanks for clearing that up. I wonder if plans for the first version is still around somewhere?

V2 was released in 2016 it seens. I'm not sure where to dig for V1

1

hi there, any chance that it would work with hdpe? for the melting part, flat surface panini press or convection oven would be more efficient? melted hdpe would end up in a small a4 size mould/coldpress

wues

hi there, any chance that it would work with hdpe? for the melting part, flat surface panini press or convection oven would be more efficient? melted hdpe would end up in a small a4 size mould/coldpress

Basically a large blender? It might work but this is a design I've never seen used with plastic shredding. You might need to do some testing. Panini press vs oven? Panini press would likely be more efficient as the heat is more direct. Ovens tend to take more time and can cause issues with the exposed surface on top.

Looks like a woodchipper

People have definitely tried them I don't have any links though

1:30 AM

Our convection oven takes forever to melt compared to direct heating (panini press/heat press)

NJ90210

Thanks for clearing that up. I wonder if plans for the first version is still around somewhere?

v1 is not so good. the shafting is only 20mm and the upgraded v3 versions are using a 32mm hex shaft with a 1 inch or 25mm input shaft. there are also versions 14 and 15 blades

1

wues

hi there, any chance that it would work with hdpe? for the melting part, flat surface panini press or convection oven would be more efficient? melted hdpe would end up in a small a4 size mould/coldpress

will not work. there is no anvil for the blades to work against. ut will just spin around the chamber

1

I hoped that 3k rpm would do the trick, here's the whole thing https://marnicshop.ro/produs/moara-nr-2-verde-2-5kw/#lightbox-7

Nicoleta

Moara nr. 2 VERDE 2.5kw - Marnic Shop - Magazin de Bricolaj pentru ...

Moara electrica cu ciocanele Nr.2 VERDE 2.5kw model GF-0758 este un produs de uz gospodaresc pentru macinarea boabelor de cereale (grau, porumb, orz, secara, etc.) dar si a stiuletilor de porumb prin orificiul special destinat acestora. Pentru o functionare eficienta si fara pierderi, se recomanda ca cerealele sa fie in prealabil foarte bine usc...

5:06 PM

I assume that this one will not work either? Spacing between the knives isn't perfect for bottle caps;) https://agrofortel.pl/rozdrabniacz-do-owocow-ze-stali-nierdzewnej-7-litrow/#product-2 (edited)

Where can I download shredder pro v3 files?

Any suggestions on a motor/ gear box for the basic shredder?

benebean

Any suggestions on a motor/ gear box for the basic shredder?

Lol, scroll up to a conversation with ViggoSjoberg

I think I’m going to just start small scale with a hand crank then upgrade because I can’t find a motor that fits my budget rn. I was hoping to build a simple shredder for 400-500

you're gonna get strong

I’m a chemical engineering major I don’t understand all the terminology for the motor specs so it’s a bit overwhelming

5:25 PM

If I could find one in my price range I’d go for it. I will be able to laser cut all my own parts and whatnot so that should save me some

you basically want as low of RPM and as much power as you can push, they're not easy to find unfortunately

5:26 PM

often you get as close as you can, then use belts or chain drive to further reduce the speed, the most important thing is the low RPM

What’s a general price range for the motor+gear box+whatever it takes to power it

also whats a good form to look for something like this

if you have a salvage or scrap yard anywhere near you finding a discarded motor or a piece of equipment with a big gear reduced drive is the way to go. They're typically going to be 3 phase input power though

Hm. I just don't where to start with that one

Hello I'm doing my own version of the extruder pro and I was wondering, isn't 4hp wayyy to much for this use? I will be using the same screw

This is a no-go for plastic right? https://www.harborfreight.com/14-amp-1-12-in-capacity-corded-electric-chipper-shredder-69293.html

14 Amp 1-1/2 in. Capacity Corded Electric Chipper Shredder

Mr.B

This is a no-go for plastic right? https://www.harborfreight.com/14-amp-1-12-in-capacity-corded-electric-chipper-shredder-69293.html

https://youtu.be/sGtZ0d9Lkr0?si=8y0Jc-t3Ad0E6Pia

SnapWhole Harbor Freight Reviews

Harbor Freight Portland Chipper Shredder - Shredding HDPE

Thank you!!!

Mr.B

Thank you!!!

Are you going to give it a shot? Looking for a way to start myself;)

Not with that machine. I want something more fine and slower. I'm trying to chop up 3d prints. I'm based in the US too so I've been trying to research a lot do things lol

Mr.B

This is a no-go for plastic right? https://www.harborfreight.com/14-amp-1-12-in-capacity-corded-electric-chipper-shredder-69293.html

I have one like that... We shredded a HDPE slide from a play house. It took a long time to cut in down to shredable pieces and the shreds were very big. It seemed pretty powerful tough, maybe I'll convert it to a different type of shredder? (edited)

Xavier

Hello I'm doing my own version of the extruder pro and I was wondering, isn't 4hp wayyy to much for this use? I will be using the same screw

Quick answer: no, 4hp is enough. Long answer: If you are making your own machine and follow the design but use a smaller motor, it will be underpowered and you risk overworking the motor and things simply not working. You'll have to use a different gear ratio and have a much lower output. We usually think of these motors as a means to move things. With the extrusion machine, the motor generates heat by moving the plastic. The heaters help a lot to get things started, but their load duty is reduced when the machine is running due to the thermal energy generated by the friction of moving the plastic.

3

what's the cheapest option for shredding at home with limited space? i want to shred polystyrene and maybe polycarbonate

Cheapest...that's a dangerous word. For PS you can use a hammer and shatter it to tiny bits. (you said cheapest) For PC I dont know, it's not a plastic i've worked with.

Bhorst

what's the cheapest option for shredding at home with limited space? i want to shred polystyrene and maybe polycarbonate

Lever paper cutter, scissors, hammer, or you can buy plastic from re-sellers. Shredders aren't cheap.

Bhorst

what's the cheapest option for shredding at home with limited space? i want to shred polystyrene and maybe polycarbonate

paper shredder could work for small pieces. https://www.instructables.com/Recycle-Plastic-Into-3D-Printer-Filament-at-Home/ this guy uses an electric hand plane

Recycle Plastic Into 3D Printer Filament at Home

Recycle Plastic Into 3D Printer Filament at Home: 3D printing is very exciting technology as it reaches the home scale but using brand new filament was not acceptable to me as it would just increases the plastic waste amount on the planet. I started to look for a way to turn plastic scraps around m…

Scissors and tin snips folks. . .

Is a CNC machine better than a laser cutter for #2 and #5 plastic sheets? Which one is everyone using successfully? I’m looking to buy one and want to make sure I get the right one.

Linda Vida

Is a CNC machine better than a laser cutter for #2 and #5 plastic sheets? Which one is everyone using successfully? I’m looking to buy one and want to make sure I get the right one.

HDPE (or any PE over ~1/8" thick) can't be cut by a laser - you'd need a router, mill, or a waterjet to cut it

waterppk

HDPE (or any PE over ~1/8" thick) can't be cut by a laser - you'd need a router, mill, or a waterjet to cut it

Can you recommend some machines? I’m trying to get a starter one that will do a good job.

I'd start with what you're trying to do or how much you want to spend as those are likely to be your constraints

I just got a heat press (the kind you use for sublimation) and I’m looking to@make small sheets that I can then cut into keychains, earrings, coasters, small items. This would be our start so we can start generating income to pay for bigger equipment. My wife also wants to be able to cut earrings and small items out of wood with it. Looking to spend $600-$800 on it

Linda Vida

Can you recommend some machines? I’m trying to get a starter one that will do a good job.

I don't have any brand reccomendations, but I do have some advice from long years of tool buying. Whatever new machine you choose to buy, it's very likely you'll be inspired to spend at least the cost of the machine on accessories, supplies, or other things you'll feel you need to use that machine the way you want.. As to choice of why type of machine would be better for your use case, I'd choose the CNC Mill. When you are ready, you'd then beable to carve stamps in aluminum to press designs into your plastic sheets, or even make molds for pressing 3d keychains and not have to bother with making sheets then cutting them.

Does this look like a decent motor? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1402869716926646/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

SEW electric motor with gear reduction unit

SEW electric motor with gear reduction unit, 1hp motor, 3 phase 220 volt, ratio is 28.73 to 1. motor has never been used and dirty from sitting on shelf. these go for upwards of $1,000 from dealer....

2:29 AM

For a shredder

2:30 AM

Only 1hp but I would be okay scaling down the shredder, I don’t need anything industrial

that looks like low enough RPM, do you have 3 phase power to run it?

6:07 AM

There are variable frequency drives that can double voltage and generate 3 phase (120V single phase -> 220V three phase) that could run that motor

benebean

Only 1hp but I would be okay scaling down the shredder, I don’t need anything industrial

I suggest not going smaller. With a reduction of hp, you have a reduction of torque for when the plastic shreds. Even if you reduce the shredder box by 50%, the machine will still struggle (and take a long time)

Linda Vida

I just got a heat press (the kind you use for sublimation) and I’m looking to@make small sheets that I can then cut into keychains, earrings, coasters, small items. This would be our start so we can start generating income to pay for bigger equipment. My wife also wants to be able to cut earrings and small items out of wood with it. Looking to spend $600-$800 on it

If you are starting, you can do it with a jigsaw instead of a CNC router. This allows you to spend less initially and make some money with your products to buy a good CNC with tooling in the future. CNC also requires tooling and skills to run it, especially if you are watching to make metal molds for injection in the future, and a cheap CNC is probably struggling to make them (but there are good options on the used market capable of machining also aluminum with a fairly good precision).

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

If you are starting, you can do it with a jigsaw instead of a CNC router. This allows you to spend less initially and make some money with your products to buy a good CNC with tooling in the future. CNC also requires tooling and skills to run it, especially if you are watching to make metal molds for injection in the future, and a cheap CNC is probably struggling to make them (but there are good options on the used market capable of machining also aluminum with a fairly good precision).

@Linda Vida Yes! what he said +, instead of a handheld Jigsaw, you could consider a scrollsaw. Some people find them much easier to use. They pretty much feel like running a sewing machine. Scrollsawing, on it's own, is a great way to make art. Check out Scrolling Intarsia? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNNn7jZ33zY (edited)

Wooden Leg Woodworking

Easy scroll saw project. Fox Intarsia

1

Linda Vida

Is a CNC machine better than a laser cutter for #2 and #5 plastic sheets? Which one is everyone using successfully? I’m looking to buy one and want to make sure I get the right one.

Look into mpcnc if you can build it yourself ,you can attach laser or router on it.

Linda Vida

I just got a heat press (the kind you use for sublimation) and I’m looking to@make small sheets that I can then cut into keychains, earrings, coasters, small items. This would be our start so we can start generating income to pay for bigger equipment. My wife also wants to be able to cut earrings and small items out of wood with it. Looking to spend $600-$800 on it

since you are limited with the sheet size by your sublimation press, i'd pick 3018/3020 type cnc. you can easily extend to 3040 size if needed. some of the sturdier ones can work with aluminium https://www.sainsmart.com/collections/open-box/products/sainsmart-genmitsu-cnc-router-3018-pro-diy-kit-open-box https://www.foxalien.com/products/foxalien-x-woodmads-cnc-router-wm3020

[Open Box] SainSmart Genmitsu CNC Router 3018-PRO DIY Kit

Genmitsu CNC router kit 3018-PRO is an upgraded version of 3018. It can provide better working accuracy and stability than the CNC router you see in the market. Genmitsu CNC router is friendly to beginners because of its easy assembly feature and easy to read instruction made by SainSmart.

FoxAlien x Woodmads CNC Router WM3020

The WM-3020 is a brand new CNC machine that is joint-desgined by FoxAlien and WoodMads. WoodMads is a start-up team devoted to CNC machines. We are very honored to be invited to participate in designing this new model; and FoxAlien becomes the exclusive distributor of the WM-3020.

wues

since you are limited with the sheet size by your sublimation press, i'd pick 3018/3020 type cnc. you can easily extend to 3040 size if needed. some of the sturdier ones can work with aluminium https://www.sainsmart.com/collections/open-box/products/sainsmart-genmitsu-cnc-router-3018-pro-diy-kit-open-box https://www.foxalien.com/products/foxalien-x-woodmads-cnc-router-wm3020

6040 cnc would be the minimum and the 1kw and above spindle size. I used to build and sell CNC routers before doinf Precious Plastic. Learned the hard way. That said IF BUDGET is tight, I can help you build something that will work, but there are some tricks to make it work without suffering all the mistakes I made in the beginning. One can build a working good CNC in the 300usd range, especially if youy have a 3D printer already which will make things easier. Otherwise you will have to build it, then machine the upgrades from your plastic. If there is interest I can put a plywood CNC kit on the store.

7:49 AM

That said, I had a workaway guy here, he learned how to build a CNC router, and the log splitter molder. He is now molding 4x4 parts way out in the middle of the bush with molds he machines himself and waste plastic.

Butte (PP Philippines)

6040 cnc would be the minimum and the 1kw and above spindle size. I used to build and sell CNC routers before doinf Precious Plastic. Learned the hard way. That said IF BUDGET is tight, I can help you build something that will work, but there are some tricks to make it work without suffering all the mistakes I made in the beginning. One can build a working good CNC in the 300usd range, especially if youy have a 3D printer already which will make things easier. Otherwise you will have to build it, then machine the upgrades from your plastic. If there is interest I can put a plywood CNC kit on the store.

That's interesting. I have some experience in CNC programming, I have a manual milling/drilling machine and I'm planning to convert it to CNC. Can I ask you some tips?

4:29 PM

The machine is like the Optimum BF20, but it has a morse 3 head and I modified it with a completely different motor and transmission.

4:31 PM

The idea is to put it on linear guides, put on it ball screws and closed loop steppers, but I don't know what to do with the electronics.

would this machine be good for milling HDPE (edited)

6:11 PM

https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4190

6:11 PM

?

You're getting about the same thing as: https://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html

2 Speed Benchtop Mill/Drill Machine

6:39 PM

but yes, that would cut HDPE just fine with high speed steel tooling

6:42 PM

something like these also work well as long as you take small depths of cut: https://www.vevor.com/wood-engraving-machine-c_11142/vevor-cnc-router-machine-300w-3-axis-grbl-control-wood-engraving-carving-milling-machine-kit-400-x-400-x-75-mm-15-7-x-15-7-x-2-95-in-working-area-1200-rpm-for-wood-acrylic-mdf-pvc-plastic-foam-p_010811202923 (there's more similar machines linked below, you can definitely shop around for lower prices)

VEVOR CNC Router Machine, 300W, 3 Axis GRBL Control Wood Engraving ...

Discover VEVOR CNC Router Machine, 300W, 3 Axis GRBL Control Wood Engraving Carving Milling Machine Kit, 400 x 400 x 75 mm / 15.7 x 15.7 x 2.95 in Working Area 1200 RPM for Wood Acrylic MDF PVC Plastic Foam, Flexible Control and High-Precision Engraving at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days returns.

waterppk

You're getting about the same thing as: https://www.harborfreight.com/two-speed-variable-bench-mill-drill-machine-44991.html

The harbor freight mill has a plastic gear in the transmission power from motor to spindle

you can buy a lot of replacement plastic gears for $1000

The little machine shop mini mills use a belt instead of gears for power transmission

yeah I totally get it, Little Machine Shop also has customer service and likely better inspection/build quality as well, it really depends on how much you want to spend and what you're intending to purchase. My experience with a variety of mini-mills is quality mostly falls to "luck of the draw", even LMS machines can have lemons and HFT occasionally lets a decent machine slip through the cracks. All I'm getting at is for effectively a spindle drive change and a DRO you're paying $1k, the machine isn't going to be substantially more capable or anything. If you're comfortable with old stuff/repairs and potentially a much heavier machine you might look at surplus auctions/online/HGRInc/etc to find something in about the same price range but with much more capability. All that said, if you're literally just looking to cut plastic a router is probably a better option with a much larger workspace than a mill which has much higher stiffness/rigidity/precision but you don't really need that with plastic

waterppk

you can buy a lot of replacement plastic gears for $1000

This reminds me I need to replace the broken plastic gear in my Northern Tool mini mill

1

JohnNephew

This reminds me I need to replace the broken plastic gear in my Northern Tool mini mill

Why not just replace the system with a belt

because it's pretty damn rare that it breaks

Alex_recycles and creates

Why not just replace the system with a belt

Replacing one broken gear is within my competence. Replacing a gear system with a belt system is something I don't immediately know how to do.

waterppk

you can buy a lot of replacement plastic gears for $1000

Or modify it with a belt, like mine. I have a slightly bigger one, I replaced the motor and transmission in 2012, and in next months I want to make it CNC.

Hello everyone, newbei here

I have some questions about jack. Is it necessary to use 8 ton or 3 ton hydraulic jack in sheetpress or cooling press ? Because i'm not able to find this particular type in my country. I'm able to find 1 or 2 tons as a long jack.

alperenasim

Hello everyone, newbei here

I have some questions about jack. Is it necessary to use 8 ton or 3 ton hydraulic jack in sheetpress or cooling press ? Because i'm not able to find this particular type in my country. I'm able to find 1 or 2 tons as a long jack.

I think someone did the math that the tonnage was pretty low for a sheet press - what size sheet are you looking to make?

1x1 meters

wait and see if anyone else weighs in but I think you'd be fine with a 1 or 2 ton jack as long as you're able to heat the plastic it really shouldn't take any pressure to flow it into a sheet

alperenasim

Hello everyone, newbei here

I have some questions about jack. Is it necessary to use 8 ton or 3 ton hydraulic jack in sheetpress or cooling press ? Because i'm not able to find this particular type in my country. I'm able to find 1 or 2 tons as a long jack.

Regard the press spring capacity at maximum operable (not full) compression: this will indicate what is needed. The spring is specified in the plans, and the specs at maximum operating compression may be had from the manufacturer. (edited)

1

Basically look at the spring rating and see how much pressure it can transmit, there's no point in having a jack that exceeds the spring capacity

1

alperenasim

Hello everyone, newbei here

I have some questions about jack. Is it necessary to use 8 ton or 3 ton hydraulic jack in sheetpress or cooling press ? Because i'm not able to find this particular type in my country. I'm able to find 1 or 2 tons as a long jack.

I use a 12 ton for a bottle jack press for compression and sheet press molding since June 2022 (edited)

Alex_recycles and creates

I use a 12 ton for a bottle jack press for compression and sheet press molding since June 2022 (edited)

What is your spring rated to?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

What is your spring rated to?

no idea

8:08 PM

the press i got is from harbor freight (edited)

Alex_recycles and creates

I use a 12 ton for a bottle jack press for compression and sheet press molding since June 2022 (edited)

so how you managed the stroke height ? I'm also thinkin raising the structure to use bottle jack

9:07 PM

thanks for the comments

once i talk to the manufacturer, i'll keep you updated !

alperenasim

so how you managed the stroke height ? I'm also thinkin raising the structure to use bottle jack

I use a lever on the bottle jack to move the press up

Alex_recycles and creates

I use a lever on the bottle jack to move the press up

They mean, I reckon, how do you limit the application of the jack to guard against destruction.

Has anyone talked about, or tried ECM to cut metal machine parts?

etching is good for deburring or surface cutting in hard materials but if you're trying to cut through something with any thickness you'd have a hard time doing it chemically without serious undercutting issues

3:07 AM

we ate through some aluminum with HCl but it would undercut quickly and there's the issue of what to do with the spent material from cutting

1

1:42 PM

This is the press that I have

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

They mean, I reckon, how do you limit the application of the jack to guard against destruction.

I would limit it by if I’m hearing cracks in the wooden mold i stop

2

1

I don’t have a pressure gauge on my press so it’s hard to know what the psi is on the press

Alex_recycles and creates

I don’t have a pressure gauge on my press so it’s hard to know what the psi is on the press

I've added one, it's definitely some work but can be done: https://www.google.com/search?q=bottle+jack+pressure+gauge+press

bottle jack pressure gauge press - Google Search

3:58 PM

two of the cylinders I had both leaked through the seals so you could press it up to a point but it would loose pressure as it sat. I think this is likely very common (and why they don't put gauges on them) but not noticed in normal use

1

The ones that have pressure gauges on them are like 500 dollars

Alex_recycles and creates

The ones that have pressure gauges on them are like 500 dollars

This is where a "passive" tool, such as a spring, would be invaluable for applying consistent pressure.

Anyone ever tried shredding simple beer cans with the shredder pro?

Filamin

Anyone ever tried shredding simple beer cans with the shredder pro?

We've done a lot of alu pop cans, just make sure and rinse them out well. We also scrubbed and oiled the blades after.

CitSciWorkshop

We've done a lot of alu pop cans, just make sure and rinse them out well. We also scrubbed and oiled the blades after.

Do you experience more wear on the blades? Edit: how often do the blades need maintenance in the form of sharpening or renewal, do you have insight in this? (edited)

1

Aluminum is still much softer than AR500 blades, and we've been able to take a year of can collections and shred it down in under 2 hours, so I don't think the blades were impacted much if at all. Constant use with this application would likely wear the blades faster than plastic however. In normal use with mainly HDPE and PP, I have performed a sharpening service once in the last 4 years, and none since we updated our tooling to sharpen blades on a machine.

CitSciWorkshop

Aluminum is still much softer than AR500 blades, and we've been able to take a year of can collections and shred it down in under 2 hours, so I don't think the blades were impacted much if at all. Constant use with this application would likely wear the blades faster than plastic however. In normal use with mainly HDPE and PP, I have performed a sharpening service once in the last 4 years, and none since we updated our tooling to sharpen blades on a machine.

Sounds very good indeed, thanks for the tips buddy

Happy to help!

Hello everyone! Do anyone have a tutorial or a checklist for the electric parts when building a shredder. i would like to be able to run it forward and backwards. And saw someone that was able to reglate the speed of his shredder so if that would be kind of easy i would like to do that to. Or should i just skip all the electrical stuff and just plug the motor inte the 3 fase outlet, that should work to right

ViggoSjoberg

Hello everyone! Do anyone have a tutorial or a checklist for the electric parts when building a shredder. i would like to be able to run it forward and backwards. And saw someone that was able to reglate the speed of his shredder so if that would be kind of easy i would like to do that to. Or should i just skip all the electrical stuff and just plug the motor inte the 3 fase outlet, that should work to right

I wish there was a simple answer, but instead you get many answers: Short answer: Yes Forward and reverse single phase - you can do this a few different ways. Most simple way is to run all the cables to a 3 position lever switch (on1-off-on2) which is connected to all your points and makes the connections needed to run in forward or reverse. Forward and reverse three phase - simple way is to switch two of the lines. Just be sure you have a middle point where nothing is connected. So lets say you have everything hooked up L0-L1-L2 and it run forward. Now you want to run it backwards, you can change the circuit to L1-L0-L2 and it should be running in reverse. If you want more control over speed, then you need to get yourself a VFD, hook it up and set it up properly which is beyond my realm of knowledge at the moment. I'm sure some googling or asking around will shed a lot of light on these. For single and 3 phase connections you can use contactors to switch the circuit up and run it in whatever configuration you need it to be in to run forward or reverse. I've done this with my shredder and i will say it causes problems if you use a 3 position switch and move it from one position to the other too quickly. You'll have both contactors engaged at the same time which will cause a short and hopefully only pop a circuit breaker and not melt anything. But generally, people don't regulate shredder speeds by adjusting some electrical connection, instead its done by gear ratios. Ive seen a VFD on a shredder and i still don't know why it was there. In my opinion, target RPM should be met by gearing things down, not playing with a VFD. Besides, you'll likely save some money without a VFD since it's one less component you need. I've seen plenty of shredders without speed controls (edited)

1

ViggoSjoberg

Hello everyone! Do anyone have a tutorial or a checklist for the electric parts when building a shredder. i would like to be able to run it forward and backwards. And saw someone that was able to reglate the speed of his shredder so if that would be kind of easy i would like to do that to. Or should i just skip all the electrical stuff and just plug the motor inte the 3 fase outlet, that should work to right

Aren't some VFD's employed as phase converters?

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Aren't some VFD's employed as phase converters?

Yes, you can get both single to 3 phase coverting VFD's as well as doublers (rarer) that will double the incoming power typically from 120VAC to 240VAC

3:58 PM

If the VFD doesn't have lost phase detection typically you just oversize ~1/3-1/2 more power than you need (if you have a 1 HP motor get a 2HP converter) and provide it with single phase, it'll output 3 phase UNLESS it's smart enough to realize it's missing a phase then it won't work at all

1

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I wish there was a simple answer, but instead you get many answers: Short answer: Yes Forward and reverse single phase - you can do this a few different ways. Most simple way is to run all the cables to a 3 position lever switch (on1-off-on2) which is connected to all your points and makes the connections needed to run in forward or reverse. Forward and reverse three phase - simple way is to switch two of the lines. Just be sure you have a middle point where nothing is connected. So lets say you have everything hooked up L0-L1-L2 and it run forward. Now you want to run it backwards, you can change the circuit to L1-L0-L2 and it should be running in reverse. If you want more control over speed, then you need to get yourself a VFD, hook it up and set it up properly which is beyond my realm of knowledge at the moment. I'm sure some googling or asking around will shed a lot of light on these. For single and 3 phase connections you can use contactors to switch the circuit up and run it in whatever configuration you need it to be in to run forward or reverse. I've done this with my shredder and i will say it causes problems if you use a 3 position switch and move it from one position to the other too quickly. You'll have both contactors engaged at the same time which will cause a short and hopefully only pop a circuit breaker and not melt anything. But generally, people don't regulate shredder speeds by adjusting some electrical connection, instead its done by gear ratios. Ive seen a VFD on a shredder and i still don't know why it was there. In my opinion, target RPM should be met by gearing things down, not playing with a VFD. Besides, you'll likely save some money without a VFD since it's one less component you need. I've seen plenty of shredders without speed controls (edited)

Thanks for the great answer! Using a 3 position switch with contactors sounds good then. How many contactors do I need ? And do you have any blueprint on how to wire the electrical stuff?

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

I wish there was a simple answer, but instead you get many answers: Short answer: Yes Forward and reverse single phase - you can do this a few different ways. Most simple way is to run all the cables to a 3 position lever switch (on1-off-on2) which is connected to all your points and makes the connections needed to run in forward or reverse. Forward and reverse three phase - simple way is to switch two of the lines. Just be sure you have a middle point where nothing is connected. So lets say you have everything hooked up L0-L1-L2 and it run forward. Now you want to run it backwards, you can change the circuit to L1-L0-L2 and it should be running in reverse. If you want more control over speed, then you need to get yourself a VFD, hook it up and set it up properly which is beyond my realm of knowledge at the moment. I'm sure some googling or asking around will shed a lot of light on these. For single and 3 phase connections you can use contactors to switch the circuit up and run it in whatever configuration you need it to be in to run forward or reverse. I've done this with my shredder and i will say it causes problems if you use a 3 position switch and move it from one position to the other too quickly. You'll have both contactors engaged at the same time which will cause a short and hopefully only pop a circuit breaker and not melt anything. But generally, people don't regulate shredder speeds by adjusting some electrical connection, instead its done by gear ratios. Ive seen a VFD on a shredder and i still don't know why it was there. In my opinion, target RPM should be met by gearing things down, not playing with a VFD. Besides, you'll likely save some money without a VFD since it's one less component you need. I've seen plenty of shredders without speed controls (edited)

I find very useful if not necessary the use of a VFD on the shredder. You can control speed (various plastics and shapes of the objects to be shredded change the speed requirements to do the work in the best way) but not only that. Setting the maximum current the VFD can give to the motor you can avoid torque peaks on the gearbox and on the entire structure keeping it safe, a motor wired directly to the grid can heavily overload the transmission. The VFD just reduces the frequency when the motor is overloaded, reducing speed and so torque given to the machine. If you do the math correctly, you find that engineering all the transmission to work safely with the torque peaks in the case of jamming or worse, long period overload of the machine instead than on the rated torque from the motor, cost more (a lot more) than using a VFD even if only used to control overload. Another fact is that motors are inductive loads, and they unbalance the grid, and in some countries the energy provider charge you also for the reactive energy you put on the grid. VFD behaves like resistive loads, so they don't cause any imbalance on the grid.

1

Hey Fellas, does anyone is making or tried to make PET sheets? are the fumes to dangerous ? Thanks in advance

Oscar Cornejo

Hey Fellas, does anyone is making or tried to make PET sheets? are the fumes to dangerous ? Thanks in advance

We have good ventillation so you might need to be more careful, the PP rings should be cut off of the bottles but we tried a convection oven and had bad results (lots of smoking from the PP well before the PET was melting). Tried again with a heatpress style heater and had better luck, it absolutely has to be cooled quickly otherwise it stays milky/opaque and has terrible brittle properties: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jRhhtK5fkaGaSCNg7

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

I find very useful if not necessary the use of a VFD on the shredder. You can control speed (various plastics and shapes of the objects to be shredded change the speed requirements to do the work in the best way) but not only that. Setting the maximum current the VFD can give to the motor you can avoid torque peaks on the gearbox and on the entire structure keeping it safe, a motor wired directly to the grid can heavily overload the transmission. The VFD just reduces the frequency when the motor is overloaded, reducing speed and so torque given to the machine. If you do the math correctly, you find that engineering all the transmission to work safely with the torque peaks in the case of jamming or worse, long period overload of the machine instead than on the rated torque from the motor, cost more (a lot more) than using a VFD even if only used to control overload. Another fact is that motors are inductive loads, and they unbalance the grid, and in some countries the energy provider charge you also for the reactive energy you put on the grid. VFD behaves like resistive loads, so they don't cause any imbalance on the grid.

So you would recommend a vfd? 100€ seems fair if it can save the machine. But can i have a vfd and still have contactors to change the way of the rotation

You can ONLY use a VFD with a 3 phase motor, the contactors are only used for a single phase motor to change direction

8:00 PM

the VFD generally has a switch to turn on/turn off the motor and another separate switch to change direciton

8:00 PM

typically you have a knob or front panel digital buttons to adjust the RPM of the motor

8:01 PM

these are all configurable through software though so you can control some VFDs from industrial communication bus (like RS485, RS232, CAN, etc), you can add physical buttons, some have remote mount interfaces

I have found a new "problem". My 3 phase motor dosent have an neutral cable or any place to put one. Is that a problem? I asked chatGPT and it said that if some motors arent in need of one and therefore i dont need to have on. That i just could leave the neutral empty in the 3 phase socket. Any ideas?

yep it's just 3 power wires and a ground, no neutral

8:03 PM

if there's no ground then ground the chassis or the body of the motor to the ground wire

Okey great, It has a ground at least

‍

8:06 PM

So should one of these work for changing the direktion and adjusting the rpm?

yep, just make sure it comes with the manual or you can find a digital copy so you can configure it. Usually they show up running for 400Hz so if you don't reconfigure it for 60 or 50hz your motor won't work/it'll appear to be "bad" when it's fine you just have to set it up

okey thanks will look into that. So i would need that then and an miniature circuit breaker?

8:16 PM

Would i need something more?

waterppk

yep, just make sure it comes with the manual or you can find a digital copy so you can configure it. Usually they show up running for 400Hz so if you don't reconfigure it for 60 or 50hz your motor won't work/it'll appear to be "bad" when it's fine you just have to set it up

I have an 3 kw motor but the vfd for 2.2 kw is like a third of the price. Is i possible to use that one instead?

ViggoSjoberg

I have an 3 kw motor but the vfd for 2.2 kw is like a third of the price. Is i possible to use that one instead?

do you have 3 phase input power or single phase only?

3 phase

8:30 PM

https://www.amazon.se/Yofuly-VFD-frekvensomvandlare-spindelmotor-varvtalsreglering/dp/B07SZ5HC4S/ref=sr_1_17?crid=3Q0UGQZIETF04&keywords=frekvensomvandlare&qid=1696962583&sprefix=frekvensomvandlare%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-17

Yofuly VFD Strömkrets, frekvensomvandlare, 220 V, 2,2 KW, 3 HP, för...

Obs: Objektet passar inte för kapacitansmotorer (enfasmotorer) och utan bromsfunktion. Specifikationer： Modell: YL600 Effekt: 2,2 kW Hästkrafter: 3 hk Ingångsspänning: enfas eller trefas, 220 V + -15 %, 50 Hz/60 Hz Utgång: 4,0 KVA Utgångsspänning: 220 V, trefas Utgångsström: 10 A Funktion: Kontro...

I typically oversize my VFDs, so I would be buying one that's larger than I need. It's worth noting for now you could just wire up the motor and run it as-is to test it

8:32 PM

running too large a motor (or too small a VFD) will likely result in tripping the internal VFD fuses unless you can limit the drive output power (not super likely on a low cost drive)

waterppk

I typically oversize my VFDs, so I would be buying one that's larger than I need. It's worth noting for now you could just wire up the motor and run it as-is to test it

okey so i should go for a 4 kw vfd or something then

waterppk

running too large a motor (or too small a VFD) will likely result in tripping the internal VFD fuses unless you can limit the drive output power (not super likely on a low cost drive)

So i would need a vfd and a miniature circuit breaker then? something more?

no idea on the breaker, that's very installation specific. You'll never have a problem adding a breaker but if the breaker from the wall is the same there isn't a lot of point in another one. This gets into what rating your wire carries, etc so I don't have an answer for you there besides it won't hurt to have a breaker but you need to size it correctly if you want it to do anything

9:18 PM

You should have a matching OR larger VFD, you should not use a VFD that's undersized from the motor unless you're counting on the VFD software to limit output power (which the cheap VFDs are unlikely to do unless you test it)

waterppk

We have good ventillation so you might need to be more careful, the PP rings should be cut off of the bottles but we tried a convection oven and had bad results (lots of smoking from the PP well before the PET was melting). Tried again with a heatpress style heater and had better luck, it absolutely has to be cooled quickly otherwise it stays milky/opaque and has terrible brittle properties: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jRhhtK5fkaGaSCNg7

I will show you my results asap, thanks a lot, i was thinking into shredd the bottles, wash them so the water separate pp, pvc and Pet for density, dry them all using the centrifuge maChine and them use the extrusion machine

1

waterppk

You should have a matching OR larger VFD, you should not use a VFD that's undersized from the motor unless you're counting on the VFD software to limit output power (which the cheap VFDs are unlikely to do unless you test it)

https://www.amazon.se/AT1-4000X-frekvensenhet-inverterarfrekvensomvandlare-PWM-kontroll-VFD-hastighetsstyrenhet/dp/B07Q44X8WQ/ref=rvi_sccl_2/261-3646209-2974765?pd_rd_w=aog8m&content-id=amzn1.sym.5e4d3154-dc29-470f-af5b-732836f5b022&pf_rd_p=5e4d3154-dc29-470f-af5b-732836f5b022&pf_rd_r=886A3DQB54FCV1XVQ3AD&pd_rd_wg=ZEldp&pd_rd_r=7ef9a2ac-ac86-4ece-9fae-83776f5162dc&pd_rd_i=B07Q44X8WQ&psc=1. would this work with my motor?

VFD inverterare 220V 4KW, AT1-4000X universell variabel frekvensenh...

VFD inverterare 220V 4KW, AT1-4000X universell variabel frekvensenhet enfas till 3-fas inverterarfrekvensomvandlare PWM-kontroll V/F öppen slinga, VFD-hastighetsstyrenhet

And do the mcb need to be the same Ampere as the motor? so 12A?

waterppk

We have good ventillation so you might need to be more careful, the PP rings should be cut off of the bottles but we tried a convection oven and had bad results (lots of smoking from the PP well before the PET was melting). Tried again with a heatpress style heater and had better luck, it absolutely has to be cooled quickly otherwise it stays milky/opaque and has terrible brittle properties: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jRhhtK5fkaGaSCNg7

you need a compatabilizer added to get the PET and PP to mix. they are tricky. I have used glycol with mixed results. Maleic-anhydride is another additive. there is also exoxified linseed oil

1

4:11 AM

Epoxidized linseed oil, often referred to as ELO (Epoxidized Linseed Oil), is the name of linseed oil that has undergone an epoxidation process. This process involves adding epoxide groups to the linseed oil's structure, which makes it suitable for various applications in the plastics and polymer industry. Epoxidized linseed oil is commonly used as a plasticizer and stabilizer in the production of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other plastics. It enhances the flexibility and heat stability of the plastic while also providing environmental advantages, as it's a biobased and non-toxic alternative to traditional plasticizers.

1

4:12 AM

Maleic anhydride is not a plasticizing agent in the same way that traditional plasticizers like phthalates or epoxidized oils are. Maleic anhydride (C4H2O3) is a chemical compound that is used in the production of certain types of plastics and resins. It is typically employed as a comonomer in the polymerization of various plastics to introduce specific properties. Here's how maleic anhydride is used in the plastics industry: Copolymerization: Maleic anhydride is often copolymerized with other monomers, such as styrene or ethylene, to create copolymers with specific properties. These copolymers can be used to improve adhesion, chemical resistance, and other characteristics of the final plastic product. Grafting: Maleic anhydride can be grafted onto the polymer chains, creating a chemical link between the maleic anhydride and the polymer. This process can enhance the compatibility of the polymer with other materials, like fillers or reinforcing agents. Adhesion: Maleic anhydride-modified plastics are known for their improved adhesion to other materials, such as metal surfaces or other polymers. This makes them valuable in various applications, such as automotive components and coatings. Toughening: In some cases, maleic anhydride can be used to improve the toughness and impact resistance of certain plastics. It's important to note that maleic anhydride itself is not a plasticizer, as its primary role is to introduce specific properties into the polymer matrix. The choice to use maleic anhydride in a particular plastic formulation depends on the desired characteristics and performance requirements of the final plastic product.

1

ViggoSjoberg

So i would need a vfd and a miniature circuit breaker then? something more?

Put fuses on the inverter main, set the parameters to keep the motor inside its specifications and you're ok!

1

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Put fuses on the inverter main, set the parameters to keep the motor inside its specifications and you're ok!

Okey will do that! Here is an update on the project

ViggoSjoberg

https://www.amazon.se/AT1-4000X-frekvensenhet-inverterarfrekvensomvandlare-PWM-kontroll-VFD-hastighetsstyrenhet/dp/B07Q44X8WQ/ref=rvi_sccl_2/261-3646209-2974765?pd_rd_w=aog8m&content-id=amzn1.sym.5e4d3154-dc29-470f-af5b-732836f5b022&pf_rd_p=5e4d3154-dc29-470f-af5b-732836f5b022&pf_rd_r=886A3DQB54FCV1XVQ3AD&pd_rd_wg=ZEldp&pd_rd_r=7ef9a2ac-ac86-4ece-9fae-83776f5162dc&pd_rd_i=B07Q44X8WQ&psc=1. would this work with my motor?

Yes, just set the parameters correctly, you need to find the maximum output current parameter, not the motor current parameter, there must be others, at least for my experience with goof quality ones, you need the inverter manual since usually the "basic" menu allows you to set only the motor nominal current, and the VFD can give some "boost" for a certain period of time. For example I set zero boost on the shredder (I'm running a 1.1kw motor with a 1.1kw VFD) and the same on the hydraulic press, the current limitation on the press is used to cut frequency to keep the motor safe, since I'm running it at 150Hz (just below the pump maximum speed) to have fast injection, and when I need to mantain the pressure at the end of the injection I can achieve full pressure with the motor slowing down to its rated curent. In both case (two different VFD, an Omron-Yaskawa for the shredder, a Schneider Electric for the press) the parameter has to be found in the full manual.

1

https://eur.vevor.com/variable-frequency-drives-c_10745/5hp-4kw-220v-vfd-capability-variable-frequency-drive-avc-motor-p_010832359683

VEVOR VEVOR 4.0KW 220V VFD Variable Frequency Drive Inverter for Sp...

Buy VEVOR 4.0KW 220V VFD Variable Frequency Drive Inverter for Spindle Motor Speed Control (4.0KW 220V) at cheap price online, with Youtube reviews and FAQs, we generally offer free shipping to Europe, US, etc.

11:53 PM

Ordered this one today

11:53 PM

For 4 kw

Davide->PreciousPlasticRomagna

Yes, just set the parameters correctly, you need to find the maximum output current parameter, not the motor current parameter, there must be others, at least for my experience with goof quality ones, you need the inverter manual since usually the "basic" menu allows you to set only the motor nominal current, and the VFD can give some "boost" for a certain period of time. For example I set zero boost on the shredder (I'm running a 1.1kw motor with a 1.1kw VFD) and the same on the hydraulic press, the current limitation on the press is used to cut frequency to keep the motor safe, since I'm running it at 150Hz (just below the pump maximum speed) to have fast injection, and when I need to mantain the pressure at the end of the injection I can achieve full pressure with the motor slowing down to its rated curent. In both case (two different VFD, an Omron-Yaskawa for the shredder, a Schneider Electric for the press) the parameter has to be found in the full manual.

Sounds good

will try my best

1

Check the vevor manual, I don't know if it has lots of parameters, months ago I took a look (not in depth, to be sincere) to those VFD and I didn't find what I was searching for. For a friend experience (he is the technician who helped me to wire and set all my machines) it is better an used VFD from a known make rather than a cheap one from an unknown make.

Original message was deleted or could not be loaded.

"Video unavailable - contains content from UMG which has blocked it from display" - was there music in the background or is this another copyright overreach from some giant company?

try this. public domain music

2:15 AM

https://youtube.com/shorts/UwnxtOF97Vc

Precious Plastic Philippines

precious plastic Philippines dual shaft shredder

2

Butte (PP Philippines)

try this. public domain music

That must suck for folks who just want to stand at the shredder all day. "Job's done... maybe if I just keep going through the motions no one will notice."

https://www.amazon.com/Topdeep-Pressing-Multifunction-Transfer-Sublimation/dp/B0BFPDKN6R/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?c=ts&keywords=Heat+Press+Machines&qid=1697566937&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-1-spons&ts_id=8090950011&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Topdeep Heat Press 15x15 Inch 8 in 1 Heat Press Machine, Swing Away...

8 in 1 Shirt Press 15x15 inch, full 360-degree rotation and swing-away design

8:36 PM

has anyone here tried to recycle plastic with this ? And using a small sheet press mold for a thickness ?

Alex_recycles and creates

has anyone here tried to recycle plastic with this ? And using a small sheet press mold for a thickness ?

Not that specific brand/model, but yes

JohnNephew

Not that specific brand/model, but yes

how well does it work (edited)

Heats on one side, with a digital temperature control. I like to use the foam cushion and have it press with lots of pressure as it melts. I need to head over to the Replay Workshop shortly, so I'll take some pictures.

okay

You have to flip it to heat/melt both sides

Rats I got distracted and forgot to take pics

Hello, I got this timer from a chinese provider and now it is stuck on loop mode and I have no answer from the provider. Anyone got one similar and know how to get it back to manual?

Alberto

Hello, I got this timer from a chinese provider and now it is stuck on loop mode and I have no answer from the provider. Anyone got one similar and know how to get it back to manual?

Is there a model number/something on it? I could take a look at the manual and probably figure it out, PID controller interfaces absolutely suck

JohnNephew

Rats I got distracted and forgot to take pics

If do ever get a chance to take some pictures, I would be interested as well

Can any attest to having produced functional core shredder parts with a plasma cutting system? Just a wishful nightmare?

1

I had a local shop laser cut my parts. Tolerances were really pretty good from .005 to .010 tolerance

HAL_9000

I had a local shop laser cut my parts. Tolerances were really pretty good from .005 to .010 tolerance

That would be the go to choice, for sure. I'm specifically asking to the challenges of plasma cutting the parts and if any have been successful. A unicorn, perhaps- but I ask.

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

That would be the go to choice, for sure. I'm specifically asking to the challenges of plasma cutting the parts and if any have been successful. A unicorn, perhaps- but I ask.

I have not considered plasma cutting the pieces as an option because I feel like there would be a lot of cleanup needed on the cuts. The cuts are pretty nasty in my experience. Maybe someone with more skill could make cleaner cuts?

1

We have a CNC plasma (Tormach with a Hypertherm), it cuts very very cleanly right off the table but we didn't try it for making a shredder as we had a local laser shop that donated the cutting time. I think the cutting cost is pretty cheap compared to the stainless steel sheet so it made sense just to have it lasered so it would work right off the bat. That said, I'm pretty confident I could get our plasma to cut workable parts to build a shredder but the tooth profiles I would probably leave excess stock and grind/shape the tip square

4:42 PM

this is 1/8" steel, showing a pierce from the top and the rest of the images are the slag/dross left on the bottom (nearly nothing): https://photos.app.goo.gl/vpSoGzdj922sNhKLA

4:42 PM

"high precision" modern plasma is really really good compared to what everyone thinks when they hear plasma cut quality

1

4:43 PM

https://tormach.com/machines/plasma-tables.html

Tormach Plasma Tables 1300PL

The Tormach 1300PL Plasma Table is loaded with premium upgrade features right out of the gate - including an integrated water table and no need for a lift gate.

waterppk

"high precision" modern plasma is really really good compared to what everyone thinks when they hear plasma cut quality

Nice. Were those just cut with air, or did you use some other cutting gas?

waterppk

https://tormach.com/machines/plasma-tables.html

I've got a line on a 4x8' AVID Pro CNC featuring both a 3hp spindle and a Hypertherm 45 XP, with the table split 4x4 between the two ganged to the same gantry. (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Nice. Were those just cut with air, or did you use some other cutting gas?

That's just cleaned/dry compressed air, we have the hypertherm 65 it's the same system as the 45xp

1

Anyone tried using this type of actuator for injection machine? https://m-eur.vevor.com/linear-actuators-c_11633/12v-linear-actuator-motor-high-speed-5mm-s-6000n-400mm-electric-door-opener-p_010188167122 (edited)

VEVOR VEVOR 400mm DC 12V Linear Actuators Electric Motor Stroke ...

Buy VEVOR 400mm DC 12V Linear Actuators Electric Motor Stroke Heavy Duty Linear Actuator 5 mm/s Travel Speed 6000N Max Lift Stroke Linear Actuator Stroke with Mounting Brackets at cheap price online, with Youtube reviews and FAQs, we generally offer free shipping to Europe, US, etc.

wues

Anyone tried using this type of actuator for injection machine? https://m-eur.vevor.com/linear-actuators-c_11633/12v-linear-actuator-motor-high-speed-5mm-s-6000n-400mm-electric-door-opener-p_010188167122 (edited)

I have one like this pulled from a scrapped hospital bed that I'm saving for the same purpose. Let me know How this goes if you choose to use it.

1

Hi all! Haven't been active on Discord in a while so here is the update from our

Maritimo Recycling, Precious Plastic based workshop: 1.

️ We developed Bottle Cap Sorter v1.0 to speed up the sorting process (it can sort few thousand bottle caps by color). Next version will support plastic type sorting as well. 2.

We have installed and running @Rory - Sustainable Design Studio Arbour Injection Machine and awesome moulds (custom premium sunglasses and our Tuna Tail bracelets) 3.

We opened first version of web shop - maritimo-recycling.com/shop 4.

Soon all our products above (including sheets, beams and raw material) will be available on Precious Plastic Bazar (we mostly aim for Central and Southeast Europe clients and hopefully the rest of the Europe) 5.

️ We will also be selling our machine (Maritimo Recycling Sorter) on Bazar soon, and probably submit it to the Precious Plastic Open Source Fund 6.

We did +20 workshops with kids/students/pensioners and people with disabilities (and we hired our first employee from the last mentioned group - Maria who enjoys tying our bracelets!) 7.

So much more we will announce soon, until then you can check our latest video - https://www.instagram.com/p/Cyll9TnsVCW/ (its in

Croatian but you can probably understand it without my cringe talk

‍♂️)

maritimorecycling

Ajmoo

Kako pravimo plutajuće naočale i privjeske?

Što je to Maritimo Recycling Sorter?

…i svi ostali updejti u zadnja 3 mjeseca!

Protegni krak, webshop je mrak -> www.maritimo-recycling.com/shop

Likes

176

6

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it so that a mould is super fast to open and close? Now we use bolts but it takes a lot of time to screw them on and of all the time

ViggoSjoberg

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it so that a mould is super fast to open and close? Now we use bolts but it takes a lot of time to screw them on and of all the time

Looks how the industry does it

ViggoSjoberg

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it so that a mould is super fast to open and close? Now we use bolts but it takes a lot of time to screw them on and of all the time

You could try something like a toggle clamp: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=toggle+clamp&iax=images&ia=images Specifically these toggle style latches depending on the pressure/force you're after

toggle clamp at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

waterppk

You could try something like a toggle clamp: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=toggle+clamp&iax=images&ia=images Specifically these toggle style latches depending on the pressure/force you're after

sounds interesting. do you think it would whitstand the pressure?

4:34 PM

impossible to know without knowing the pressure and surface area of the mold area, we'd also have to know the strength of the clamps. You'd just have to try it and see what happens. If I'm understanding your drawing correctly and those are flat thin plates at the outside of your mold you might bend them or have difficulty clamping without a lot of contact area in the middle

ViggoSjoberg

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it so that a mould is super fast to open and close? Now we use bolts but it takes a lot of time to screw them on and of all the time

I reckon that depends on the injection pressure. I've seen long-levered screw toggles fitted into slots- levered, given a couple spins, and swung free. (edited)

Is there a 110V varient of the V3.5 Shreader

4:10 AM

Been looking into shipping a 220V version to Japan what a 110V base electrics and use inverter. But that would most likely lead to a large power drop and may not work

JarvisSan

Is there a 110V varient of the V3.5 Shreader

Japan uses split phase 100v/200v. Hopefully you can find someone who has a motor that will work with the system. Also need to take note if your power is 60hz or 50hz, it may or may not matter. (edited)

ViggoSjoberg

Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it so that a mould is super fast to open and close? Now we use bolts but it takes a lot of time to screw them on and of all the time

Found it: https://community.preciousplastic.com/how-to/make-a-quick-release-opening-system-for-injection-moulds

Make a quick release opening system for injection moulds

Injecting is a slower process compare to the other machines, generally it takes from 10 to 15 min to inject a product. That's why we've been looking for different alternatives to make this process as fast as possible, even for very simple steps like opening and closing. When you inject 3-5 times is not that bad to screw in and out 4-6 bolts, but...

1

bike skewers (axles)

is their a recommended tshirt press to use for making sheets that are 38 by 38 cm with a thickness of 1 cm ?

JohnNephew

Not that specific brand/model, but yes

What brand do you use ?

One question: is it possible to mark/cut a 5mm plate with a laser CNC?

fcarva

One question: is it possible to mark/cut a 5mm plate with a laser CNC?

5mm Plastic Sheet? Sure, but may still depend on the type of plastic and even more the laser that you are using

DataWorm (PP Berlin)

5mm Plastic Sheet? Sure, but may still depend on the type of plastic and even more the laser that you are using

Thank you very much. I asked this question because I generally use a CNC router and not a CNC laser.

fcarva

One question: is it possible to mark/cut a 5mm plate with a laser CNC?

with an HDPE plate big NO acrylic plate sure just filter the fumes out (edited)

1

Alex_recycles and creates

with an HDPE plate big NO acrylic plate sure just filter the fumes out (edited)

I did not know that. Thanks.

Also the acyrlic cant be clear.

Rory - Sustainable Design Studio

Also the acyrlic cant be clear.

My hands-on laser cutting experience has been limited to wood and acrylic- and that acrylic was all clear. Cut beautifully.

fcarva

Thank you very much. I asked this question because I generally use a CNC router and not a CNC laser.

Your take away from this exchange should be "plastics can be cut, with varying success, and some emit dangerous, toxic, possibly corrosive gas when lased". Do your research before cutting anything with a laser. (edited)

1

I think Rory's getting at you can't cut acrylic with the popular diode lasers unless it's basically black, CO2 lasers are readily absorbed with any acrylic

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

My hands-on laser cutting experience has been limited to wood and acrylic- and that acrylic was all clear. Cut beautifully.

We cut clear welding label covers from clear acrylic on a C02 laser daily as well

HAL_9000

We cut clear welding label covers from clear acrylic on a C02 laser daily as well

All of my experience has been with a CO2 rig- I'm ignorant of the limitations or capacities of any other type of lasing system.

Diode and CO2 lasers can make markings on Polypropylene. HDPE needs more power and you'll find that some colors don't work as well as other side to their ability to absorb the laser energy.

9:22 AM

https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClDqx14ABpR/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

dobbsben

Lasers are fun. Playing with a cheapo diode laser and polypropylene plastic..... Because why not?

9:23 AM

Something I did with a diode laser a while back

Alex_recycles and creates

What brand do you use ?

I think it was something like "Aonesy"? Last I looked the "brand" had disappeared. There are usually a bunch of seemingly interchangeable models under different weird brand names. Probably made in the same Chinese factory.

1

Hello team! Im glad to share this message with all active designers We have one spot open to invite you, to perform with us, in a Precious Plastic Space workshop AND conference here in México

This event will take place from 8th to 10th january. If you aré open to share your findings in the Precious Plastic Universe, please share with us your PDF CV, vía email Answering the following : 1-Where aré you located

️?(airport) 2-Which Is your machining design experience? 3-English 4- Un poquito de español está bien. 5-leaving expenses asíde, which would be your personal fee? 6-passport & everything in order? Please sent It ASAP to preciousplasticleon.rc@gmail.com Keep recycling. . .

Rubén Team Precious Plastic Leon @everyone @all (edited)

hi friends. Just want to share with you our new test - we tried to bend beams using sheet press and on the picture is our first result. It ll be much better, we ll use it to produce the sides of our benches. We did this on 148 degrees celsius

aleksandarmasic92

hi friends. Just want to share with you our new test - we tried to bend beams using sheet press and on the picture is our first result. It ll be much better, we ll use it to produce the sides of our benches. We did this on 148 degrees celsius

Nice. Do you have any plastic welding capacity? I could see layers 'laminated' together, one bent over the next, their edges welded. To that end, first running the beams across a router to chamfer the edges...

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Nice. Do you have any plastic welding capacity? I could see layers 'laminated' together, one bent over the next, their edges welded. To that end, first running the beams across a router to chamfer the edges...

thank you - we tried welding also but it was cracking on that spot, it was not so strong

1

Woah nice! I'd use some mechanical fasteners to help keep the end of the beam held together. Usually people will countersink screws and melt plastic over the fasteners.

1

waterppk

That's just cleaned/dry compressed air, we have the hypertherm 65 it's the same system as the 45xp

i ran the cut45 on a torchmate table before. stainless was tricky as I had to cut it under water to get a decent cut with compressed air. the plate was in a water table and submerged about 10mm. that said, getting decent cuts even with fine tip consumable for many of the shredder parts was near impossible. slag issues, and unable to get the small holes cut well.

3:47 AM

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/DaEbW_oPvZg todays fabrication

Precious Plastic Philippines

precious plastic extrusion

the most heavy duty pro machine built in the shop to date. has meters to monitor the KWH, amperage usage, industrial breakers, super heavy duty steel frame, indicator lights for the heat and motor,. 4200 watts heat on this one. it can be upgraded fairly easy in the future to bigger screw.

1

Butte (PP Philippines)

the most heavy duty pro machine built in the shop to date. has meters to monitor the KWH, amperage usage, industrial breakers, super heavy duty steel frame, indicator lights for the heat and motor,. 4200 watts heat on this one. it can be upgraded fairly easy in the future to bigger screw.

Was it built on consignment?

Can anyone point me to and Electric wiring schematics that shows how to wire the grounding cable that grounded ceramic band heaters have (Injection and extrusion machines)? I have found some documentation online and my thinking Is that It has to be wired to the earth of the mains plug

1

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Was it built on consignment?

government order. the local governments as part of the zero waste iniative are adding recycling machines all over the country. We have built 5 recycling spaces in the last 3 months

3

Butte (PP Philippines)

government order. the local governments as part of the zero waste iniative are adding recycling machines all over the country. We have built 5 recycling spaces in the last 3 months

Excellent! It's been great watching your journey- all the building, development, growth. Hard-won, no doubt. (edited)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

Excellent! It's been great watching your journey- all the building, development, growth. Hard-won, no doubt. (edited)

thanks! A ton of hard work for sure. Started with literally zero money. Build a machine, half down, rinse repeat. still a ton more work to go, building a team. Next position to fill is a business manager.

2

1

Hello ,I am building my extruder machine and have a question ,my extruder barrel comes with holes which I think for the k type sensor but it doesn't have the thread for it. I think I saw somewhere that I should remove the cover of the k type sensor and put it under the heating band what is the correct method?

7:42 PM

I can use some kapton tape to fix the sensor.

you could just put the thermocouple in the hole and put a hose clamp over it. Ideally you want to get that nut/threaded adapter out of the way so the tip of the thermocouple is in good contact with the barrel : https://www.backermarathon.com/products/hose-clamp/Types/

Hose Clamp Thermocouples

Backer Marathon offers Hose Clamp Style Thermocouples. We stock hundreds of different models and offer quick turnaround, usually 48 hours or less, on custom designed and manufactured units.

2

gokudo21

Hello ,I am building my extruder machine and have a question ,my extruder barrel comes with holes which I think for the k type sensor but it doesn't have the thread for it. I think I saw somewhere that I should remove the cover of the k type sensor and put it under the heating band what is the correct method?

What am I missing here? Taps (for threading) are relatively inexpensive. If not the answer, why not? (real question- educating myself)

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

What am I missing here? Taps (for threading) are relatively inexpensive. If not the answer, why not? (real question- educating myself)

Taking a guess that is a hardened barrel...? tapping into hardened steel is like banging your head on a wall

(edited)

gokudo21

I can use some kapton tape to fix the sensor.

I was going to build a machine with a 50mm barrel but i wanted 260c temps. I am wondering if a 110V band will work? https://www.amazon.com/DERNORD-50mmx50mm-Injected-Heating-Injection/dp/B08ML2FLHT

DERNORD 110V 350W 50mmx50mm Injected Mould Heating Element Brass Ba...

DERNORD 110V 350W 50mmx50mm Injected Mould Heating Element Brass Band Heater for Injection Molding Machine

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

What am I missing here? Taps (for threading) are relatively inexpensive. If not the answer, why not? (real question- educating myself)

I don't think it will work but I will try because why not, thanks for the input.

HAL_9000

I was going to build a machine with a 50mm barrel but i wanted 260c temps. I am wondering if a 110V band will work? https://www.amazon.com/DERNORD-50mmx50mm-Injected-Heating-Injection/dp/B08ML2FLHT

In the the precious plastic kit they used 350w for the extruder pro so it should work.

gokudo21

I don't think it will work but I will try because why not, thanks for the input.

Not securing the Thermocouple with thread or intergrated hose clamp is a huge risk. If the temp sensor comes loose and starts measuring air temperature rather than the barrel temperature you have a machine that maxes out the heat bands. 350c at points which can cause a fire. Best to play it safe with machines like this at all times. (edited)

1

2

Hey all, my university club is attempting to make the EXTPRO 1.2 and we are almost done sourcing all the materials and parts, but when we got to the wires the table of required wires, if I understand it correctly, wants me to buy over 50m of wire. That seems ridiculously long and makes me wonder whether I have read the table properly.https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hU5MQ0R_Xal7PeCS8PATeyhCHEyfwk-m/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=107638369081627719563&rtpof=true&sd=true

EXTPRO - 1.2 CABLING.xlsx

Sheet1 Document,Machine type and model,Revision,A EXTPRO 1.2 CABLING,Extruder Pro V1.2,Date Change log Function,Section [mm²],Colour,Length [mm],Cable end type (ex),Label exit,label entry,Cable end type (ent),Notes Supply cable -> neoprene flexible wires,2.5,Brown,3000,DIN 46228,N/A,L1,L-RB 4 F,...

3:43 AM

Also, I find it weird that the table defines the thickness of the wire by its cross-sectional area (2mm^2 for example) instead of just the wire diameter like everywhere I look that sells wires. Why is it like this, and do I actually need to get that much wire?

3:44 AM

It seems excessive

alpineadam

Also, I find it weird that the table defines the thickness of the wire by its cross-sectional area (2mm^2 for example) instead of just the wire diameter like everywhere I look that sells wires. Why is it like this, and do I actually need to get that much wire?

I reckon it might be specified that way to indicate the ultimate requirement- so, when material sourcing, if only smaller wire is available, one might calculate how many multiples would suffice. (edited)

alpineadam

Also, I find it weird that the table defines the thickness of the wire by its cross-sectional area (2mm^2 for example) instead of just the wire diameter like everywhere I look that sells wires. Why is it like this, and do I actually need to get that much wire?

The entire world (except USA) uses wire area not gauge (AWG) thickness you'll see in the US. Wire is dual marked, take a look at your computer power cord/etc and you'll probably see both AWG and mm2 marked

5:06 AM

Usually you want multiple colors, so 50 meters of wire might cover all wire needed for the whole control panel/etc with waste, you'd probably want 15 meters of black, white, green rather than 50 meters of a single color

Okay

5:08 AM

Ty

1

5:12 AM

It’s still well over 20 m though

5:13 AM

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18yJ2Y56rcxcksnH7NK9BW6Xt7Xo4FlEB/view?usp=drivesdk

EXTPRO - 1.2 POWER.pdf

you're not wrong but I don't have a clue how much is necessary. First step for you would be to go look at the shortest roll of wire you can buy and decide if that's enough or if you want the next longer roll

alpineadam

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18yJ2Y56rcxcksnH7NK9BW6Xt7Xo4FlEB/view?usp=drivesdk

This is what I have to use the wire for

yeah I get that, a schematic doesn't tell me anything about the distance between the parts that are on the schematic. Are you mounting the VFD on the wall and running a long cord to the motor? Is the control box 2' x 2', etc. You're the only person who knows how much wire you need because you're the one laying it out

5:19 AM

you can do this one of two ways: Buy more wire than you need, use as much as you need, have extra Install all of the parts where they're going, measure between all of the parts and order as much as you thing you need, end up short

alpineadam

Also, I find it weird that the table defines the thickness of the wire by its cross-sectional area (2mm^2 for example) instead of just the wire diameter like everywhere I look that sells wires. Why is it like this, and do I actually need to get that much wire?

Cross section is what matters about current rating. Never seen anyone selling wires using diameter. It's simply pointless, since the cross sectional area increases with the square of the radius. (edited)

Welcome to the USA, we use "gauge" thickness for wires and sheet metal, don't forget gauge doesn't reflect the thickness of the material it actually depends on whether it's plain steel, galvanized, or aluminum. We have wire gauge too. And if you go back far enough there wasn't agreement on thickness for much of anything so you had regional gauges and companies that sold product on their own thickness systems

1

waterppk

Welcome to the USA, we use "gauge" thickness for wires and sheet metal, don't forget gauge doesn't reflect the thickness of the material it actually depends on whether it's plain steel, galvanized, or aluminum. We have wire gauge too. And if you go back far enough there wasn't agreement on thickness for much of anything so you had regional gauges and companies that sold product on their own thickness systems

A brief explainer on US measurements and their origin- https://youtu.be/JYqfVE-fykk?si=QU0k2-MkGYM6BvVX

Saturday Night Live

Washington's Dream - SNL

1

Can anyone point me to and Electric wiring schematics that shows how to wire the grounding cable that grounded ceramic band heaters have (Injection and extrusion machines)? I have found some documentation online and my thinking Is that It has to be wired to the earth of the mains plug - sorry I wasn't able to upload a photo making a thread of this question I made earlier. I just wanted to start respond to it, the closest thing i found in PP documentation for now is this frame in the Injection Build Video on PP YT, that most likely shows grounds from the ceramic heaters going to mains ground directly

No familarity with the parts but I'm pretty knowledgable wiring-wise, do these band heaters have 3 connections on them or are they just 2 connection points? If they're two you should have a hot/power and a neutral connection, in the USA those are black and white respectively, overseas typically brown and blue but can be a variety of colors. The earth in your incoming power should be something with green. The earth/ground connection is NOT intended to carry power, so it should never be used in the circuit, however any exposed steel that you could make contact with like the panel enclosure/metal box your parts mount in, the machine, the motor, etc should ALL be connected to earth/ground for safety. The idea of the ground is that if you end up with power on for instance your band heater because the internal insulation failed and allowed the hot power input connection to touch the metal body of the heater then that power should be shorted to ground/earth to protect the operator

hey, I hv a question. Can I use this machine for custom moulds.

11:10 AM

these kind of mould for example

11:11 AM

mostly people use this extrusion machines for beams right?

gokudo21

In the the precious plastic kit they used 350w for the extruder pro so it should work.

we went up to 1kw heaters 100x50cm with our pro machines,

waterppk

Welcome to the USA, we use "gauge" thickness for wires and sheet metal, don't forget gauge doesn't reflect the thickness of the material it actually depends on whether it's plain steel, galvanized, or aluminum. We have wire gauge too. And if you go back far enough there wasn't agreement on thickness for much of anything so you had regional gauges and companies that sold product on their own thickness systems

not just the USA, it is pretty much common around the world. In the Philippines I specified 14mm squared cross section wire aka 6ga and soemone brought me 14ga wire which was less than 2mm. needless to say we was not running our giant extrusion machine on such small wire.

Butte (PP Philippines)

not just the USA, it is pretty much common around the world. In the Philippines I specified 14mm squared cross section wire aka 6ga and soemone brought me 14ga wire which was less than 2mm. needless to say we was not running our giant extrusion machine on such small wire.

Just have to upgrade to 800V heaters

waterppk

Just have to upgrade to 800V heaters

You mean watts right ??

Higher volts means less amperage, the joke is if he only has 14 gauge wire (and needed 6 gauge which is substantially larger) the only way would be to increase the voltage to carry fewer amps but get the same wattage. This is very much sarcasm, you can't do this in practice as the heaters don't have the insulation rating for that high of voltage you'd have arcing and failure

waterppk

Higher volts means less amperage, the joke is if he only has 14 gauge wire (and needed 6 gauge which is substantially larger) the only way would be to increase the voltage to carry fewer amps but get the same wattage. This is very much sarcasm, you can't do this in practice as the heaters don't have the insulation rating for that high of voltage you'd have arcing and failure

Can you gang the wire for a 6 gauge equivalent?

yep you can parallel the wires to get the equivalent conductor area too

1

waterppk

yep you can parallel the wires to get the equivalent conductor area too

correct. But only if the conductors are cut exactly the same length and crimped together on the ends. In solar this is a common practice to use multiple smaller wires rather than one large one due to the high amperages of DC systems. It also functions to make the wires easier to route as it will be more flexible than one single thick wire. It also allows for a better heat dissipation. But this is basically the only real application for multiple conductor.

Butte (PP Philippines)

correct. But only if the conductors are cut exactly the same length and crimped together on the ends. In solar this is a common practice to use multiple smaller wires rather than one large one due to the high amperages of DC systems. It also functions to make the wires easier to route as it will be more flexible than one single thick wire. It also allows for a better heat dissipation. But this is basically the only real application for multiple conductor.

I suppose the greater the disparity in length, the higher the prospect of overloading the shortest wires...

Christopher - Unmake Plastic

I suppose the greater the disparity in length, the higher the prospect of overloading the shortest wires...

electricity takes the shortest path

Hello, I am searching for keyless bushings that are strong enough for my extrusion application (around 336Nm) but it seems like there's no option in Canada, the good stuff's only in Europe. I am looking for something of 20mm ID and 38mm OD but 20mm ID and 47mm OD is also fine. Any help is appreciated

waterppk

Higher volts means less amperage, the joke is if he only has 14 gauge wire (and needed 6 gauge which is substantially larger) the only way would be to increase the voltage to carry fewer amps but get the same wattage. This is very much sarcasm, you can't do this in practice as the heaters don't have the insulation rating for that high of voltage you'd have arcing and failure

I know about the higher volts less amp

hi! i'm looking to start a small recycling program on my universities campus for educational purposes. we're looking for a shredder/extruder combo of machines to start, and i was wondering if anyone has suggestions for cost-effective, simple machines that i could purchase as a kit. any and all help would be amazing!

Hi friends - We are scoping to develop a sheet press machine ourselves. We have gone through Precious Plastic tutorials and with the details provided, we feel quite confident to pull it off. The only doubt we are struggling with is that if instead of a square sheet machine (say 1 m X 1m), if we build a rectagular sheet machine (say 1 m X .75 m), will the Precious Plastic way of assembling the machine will still be efficient and we would be able to get same output as rectangular sheet press machine? Really looking for experiences/feedback from those of you who have built/tried buiding a rectagular sheet press machine.

Priyank Mishra

Hi friends - We are scoping to develop a sheet press machine ourselves. We have gone through Precious Plastic tutorials and with the details provided, we feel quite confident to pull it off. The only doubt we are struggling with is that if instead of a square sheet machine (say 1 m X 1m), if we build a rectagular sheet machine (say 1 m X .75 m), will the Precious Plastic way of assembling the machine will still be efficient and we would be able to get same output as rectangular sheet press machine? Really looking for experiences/feedback from those of you who have built/tried buiding a rectagular sheet press machine.

All the folks I've seen make rectangular sheets have been done through ovens. But I don't think there's anything wrong with making rectangular sheets. I think the main consideration will be the sizing of the machine. Just make sure you have adequateg heating and have enough space for overflow. You can build a machine that produces 50cm x 50cm x 1cm and it will have the same cycle rate as a 100cm x 100cm x 1cm so long as your heating efficiency is the same. (think of it like watts per cm2).

Priyank Mishra

Hi friends - We are scoping to develop a sheet press machine ourselves. We have gone through Precious Plastic tutorials and with the details provided, we feel quite confident to pull it off. The only doubt we are struggling with is that if instead of a square sheet machine (say 1 m X 1m), if we build a rectagular sheet machine (say 1 m X .75 m), will the Precious Plastic way of assembling the machine will still be efficient and we would be able to get same output as rectangular sheet press machine? Really looking for experiences/feedback from those of you who have built/tried buiding a rectagular sheet press machine.

So for example: Sheet press Heating energy: 15kw Heating plates: 2 Wattage per heating plate: 7.5kw Area per heating plate: 12,100cm2 (110cm x 110cm) Watts per cm2= 0.62w (7500w/12100cm2) For a 100cm x 75cm machine that is oversized to 110cm x 85cm is about 23% smaller. As such you can reduce heating energy by 23%. 15kw * (1-0.23) = 11.55kw So your total heating energy will be close to 11.55kw total or 5.775kw/heating plate Tips: 1. install your thermocouples as close as possibe to the heaters 2. Pay attention to your heater ratings. Distribute the heaters evenly but do make sure to install them on the corners of your heater plates as these are the areas that tend to be more problematic due to lack of heat. I hope there's some useful info for you here.

2

Hi. I’m having so trouble with the injector machine. Everytime we melt plastic, it gets stuck at the bottom (hardens) despite temp going up to 270 throughout. I know we’re technically burning the plastic but any temp lower, the plastic just remains within the pipe and not melt at all. I’m not sure what we’re doing wrong and it’s starting to be quite difficult to work with.

5:32 AM

It’s the first type of injector machine. I’m not sure if anyone else has trouble with it. I’ve been working on it for almost a year and it’s still not working. Should I change injector design? Or keep at it? Sorry for the questions

in desperate need for help to be honest.

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

So for example: Sheet press Heating energy: 15kw Heating plates: 2 Wattage per heating plate: 7.5kw Area per heating plate: 12,100cm2 (110cm x 110cm) Watts per cm2= 0.62w (7500w/12100cm2) For a 100cm x 75cm machine that is oversized to 110cm x 85cm is about 23% smaller. As such you can reduce heating energy by 23%. 15kw * (1-0.23) = 11.55kw So your total heating energy will be close to 11.55kw total or 5.775kw/heating plate Tips: 1. install your thermocouples as close as possibe to the heaters 2. Pay attention to your heater ratings. Distribute the heaters evenly but do make sure to install them on the corners of your heater plates as these are the areas that tend to be more problematic due to lack of heat. I hope there's some useful info for you here.

Thanks Ben. Quite insightful. We did some more study and felt that as a first trial, we should rather build a standard (square ) and smaller (say 50 cm x 50 cm X 1.5 cm) machine so that we can achieve better output based on Precious Plastic inputs. Would be able to suggest where can I find a reference material which outlines details like dimensions, power requirement, etc for the truncated sheet size given above. Thanks in anticipation.

Hello! I'm in my third year of university and majoring mechanical engineering so im quite the novice. But either way i'm going to build an extrusion machine but having a hard time choosing motor and gearbox, how do I choose? This is the screw I'm planning to use:

10:19 AM

Hey, im looking to buy a shredder

I have around 5-6k dollars that i can spend total (including shipping), What would you guys recomend for this price range? Im mostly going to shred PP box lids and thick phone cases

8:15 PM

I have access to 400V 16amps aswell

Mads Falk

Hey, im looking to buy a shredder

I have around 5-6k dollars that i can spend total (including shipping), What would you guys recomend for this price range? Im mostly going to shred PP box lids and thick phone cases

Might be helpful to start with where you're located? Have you looked around the Bazaar that's generally where you'd find machines that are available

Priyank Mishra

Thanks Ben. Quite insightful. We did some more study and felt that as a first trial, we should rather build a standard (square ) and smaller (say 50 cm x 50 cm X 1.5 cm) machine so that we can achieve better output based on Precious Plastic inputs. Would be able to suggest where can I find a reference material which outlines details like dimensions, power requirement, etc for the truncated sheet size given above. Thanks in anticipation.

The easiest answer to your question is... No. There isn't any guide for this that I am aware of. This is why i'm spamming the chat with all this information for you.

Again overall the math is fairly simple and there's some tolerances so things dont need to be exact. Reducing regular sheet press to 1/4 size: 15kw/4= 3.75kw or 1.875kw per heater plate Please pay attention to your power consumption and amperage and build the circuits accordingly. Feel free to ask questions about this if you're confused or simply don't know what to do. You'll need to spread out your heaters evenly but I suggest not focusing too much heat in the center, usually the problematic areas are the corners. As you will now be creating a sheet 1/4 the size, you will need to exert 1/4 the pressing force. A 300kg spring should work just fine, just keep an eye on it and dont go crazy when loading it up. I suggest some trial and error, watch the spring compress a bit and check your results. most plastics dont need a lot of pressure to push into shape, but that force does come in handy when needed. You don't need to follow the design for the laser cut steel plate honeycomb sort of design. You can use hollow tubing but you need to make sure it's thick enough or else things will flex and bend out of shape. The heater plate material should be aluminium as it conducts heat very nicely. The cold press could be aluminium or steel. I find that steel is economic and does a good enough job. But if you're looking for precision results you'll need a precision mould and a very precise machine....usually this means things will cost a lot more and it may or may not be something you need.

1

Really appreciate your insights Ben. They are practical and simple to understand. Seeking just a small clarification - if we go for a 50 cm X 50 cm sheet instead of 100 cm X 100 cm sheet, should we not think of 1/2 size instead of 1/4 size as suggested by you above? or thickness of the sheet also plays a role there?

waterppk

Might be helpful to start with where you're located? Have you looked around the Bazaar that's generally where you'd find machines that are available

Im located in Norway, but you answered my questions really. Was kinda wondering if the machines on bazar were overpriced, or if theres other places to look

Priyank Mishra

Really appreciate your insights Ben. They are practical and simple to understand. Seeking just a small clarification - if we go for a 50 cm X 50 cm sheet instead of 100 cm X 100 cm sheet, should we not think of 1/2 size instead of 1/4 size as suggested by you above? or thickness of the sheet also plays a role there?

Ah your math is wrong if you're thinking 50cm x 50cm is equal to 1/2 of a 100cm x 100cm sheet. You can fit 4 sheets of 50cm x 50cm into one 100cm x 100cm space. If this is what you're thinking, don't worry, you're not the only one to make this mistake. Sheet area math: 100cm x 100cm = 10,000cm2 (100%) 71cm x 71cm = 5,041cm2 (super close to 50%) 50cm x 50cm = 2,500cm2 (25%)

1

1:15 PM

Things that will remain the same are the thickness of the heater plates. You might be able to get away with using thinner steel but i suggest not doing that because you really want things as rigid as possible. Try your best to keep things as flat as possible too.

ShakiraHips

Hi. I’m having so trouble with the injector machine. Everytime we melt plastic, it gets stuck at the bottom (hardens) despite temp going up to 270 throughout. I know we’re technically burning the plastic but any temp lower, the plastic just remains within the pipe and not melt at all. I’m not sure what we’re doing wrong and it’s starting to be quite difficult to work with.

Hey shakira, are you working with HDPE or Polypropylene? 270°C can be normal with PP, where and how is your temperature sensor located? Do you have a picture of your machine?

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Hey shakira, are you working with HDPE or Polypropylene? 270°C can be normal with PP, where and how is your temperature sensor located? Do you have a picture of your machine?

Plastic bottle caps and plastic bottles for now. The bottle caps didn’t fully melt even with that temp.

yes I have pictures. Am I allowed to share them here?

ShakiraHips

Plastic bottle caps and plastic bottles for now. The bottle caps didn’t fully melt even with that temp.

yes I have pictures. Am I allowed to share them here?

Go ahead and share pics. Pics of them specific things you are recycling may help.

1:20 AM

1:22 AM

1:23 AM

Although we did manage to get plastic to the mold, it was brittle and extremely hard like thick glass. I think it’s because we burnt it

It looks like maybe your source material might be PET (#1 resin symbol), such as soda bottles? Did you mix lids and bottles together?

JohnNephew

It looks like maybe your source material might be PET (#1 resin symbol), such as soda bottles? Did you mix lids and bottles together?

No we didn’t. We only went for bottles now because the lids didn’t melt well. So we decided to try the bottles

1:38 AM

We had to blow torch the bottom to get the rest of the melted plastic off. Which thankfully we had in the borrowed workshop. Without the blow torch, the plastic hardened almost within a few seconds. Not sure what we did wrong honestly.

Sorry, to clarify, is this clear plastic bottles with a #1 symbol you are using? Or a different plastic?

It is PET

I think that's your basic problem

And the bottle caps?

PET really does not play well with Precious Plastics machinery. Bottle caps are generally #2 (HDPE) or sometimes #5 (PP); both of them work much better with PP gear.

1

Okay. That sounds about right. We only noticed a blockage when using bottles and the bottle caps. Well the bottle caps didn’t really melt much. Our shredder has a weak motor as which we needed to feed through a few times before we get proper shredded sized flakes

The melting point of HDPE is supposed to be about 120º to 180º Celsius; PET is more like 260º. I think the typical PP machines have trouble getting to this kind of temperature. Also, it's hot enough to burn other plastics, and higher than the temps at which paper labels will ignite.

We experienced a fire incident with the bottle caps

The other element is that PET is very sensitive to moisture. If you can get the temps where they need to be, you also need to have a system for drying and keeping the moisture away before it's molded, else you wind up with brittle junk, is my understanding.

1

Thank you. We’ll try with the type of plastics first

I'd recommend either HDPE (#2) or PP (#5). Specifically, it is best if you can find objects that were injection molded, since they will have good flow when melted. There's an incredible difference between two samples of HDPE; some will basically never get softer than bread dough, while some will run like water when it melts. There are ways to put both kinds to use in recycling, but with your machine you would much rather have the stuff that gets runny and takes less effort to squeeze through a nozzle.

1

Wow, nice that you help out so much @JohnNephew !

Great problem solving! Yes @ShakiraHips , don’t use PET. Not suitable for Preciousplastic machines. Not only the high temperature, also it has a very sensitive melting zone. If you are over that, you burn PET, if you are below, it’s not melted. Especially with the injector you take out the heat when you inject and the temperature controller needs to adjust the temperature after every injection. The machine is not able to stay in that sensitive melting zone. HDPE & PP have bigger melting zones. But I’m wondering why you have trouble with bottle caps. Did you separate HDPE and PP caps? Can we see the flakes? (edited)

Thomas Peterberns | Johannplasto

Wow, nice that you help out so much @JohnNephew !

Great problem solving! Yes @ShakiraHips , don’t use PET. Not suitable for Preciousplastic machines. Not only the high temperature, also it has a very sensitive melting zone. If you are over that, you burn PET, if you are below, it’s not melted. Especially with the injector you take out the heat when you inject and the temperature controller needs to adjust the temperature after every injection. The machine is not able to stay in that sensitive melting zone. HDPE & PP have bigger melting zones. But I’m wondering why you have trouble with bottle caps. Did you separate HDPE and PP caps? Can we see the flakes? (edited)

This is the only picture I could find in my gallery

5:00 AM

They had to be fed through a few times

All HDPE?

It doesn’t deform easily so I’m assuming not hdpe

5:12 AM

I’m not sure. There’s no label to either the bottle or the cap

5:13 AM

Given that we needed high temps to melt the caps, I would only assume it’s not hdpe or pp

No indication at all engraved on the parts?

Liza

Hello! I'm in my third year of university and majoring mechanical engineering so im quite the novice. But either way i'm going to build an extrusion machine but having a hard time choosing motor and gearbox, how do I choose? This is the screw I'm planning to use:

you want at least 12n.m of torque. for my first machine i used a windshield wiper motor which had a rated torque of about 6n.m. for polystyrene pellets and regrind that was fine but it burnt out after a year and had a hard time with hard materials. there's a 110v 250w motor on amazon that i bought for my next machine

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Hi guys, new member here. May I know what are the differences between buying an extruder pro vs a regular extruder based on the Precious Plastics bazaar website https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/ ? Has anyone had experienced using both and if so which is better? Would the pro be better because it's pro? And would any of the plastic extruders be able to extrude Acetal (POM) plastics? Edit: Typos (edited)

Precious Plastic Machines

Hey machine builders! Can you show me the nozzles of your extrusion machines? I'm currently mentoring a college senior design team that is making an extruder, and am looking for a design that allows molds and nozzles to be attached easily. Bonus points if welding is not required.

MARS

Hi guys, new member here. May I know what are the differences between buying an extruder pro vs a regular extruder based on the Precious Plastics bazaar website https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/machines/ ? Has anyone had experienced using both and if so which is better? Would the pro be better because it's pro? And would any of the plastic extruders be able to extrude Acetal (POM) plastics? Edit: Typos (edited)

From my limited experience, I think the difference is manufacturing technology and throughput: the basic is easier to build; the pro is designed for longer run time per day. For example, my use case is for educational demos, so the pro version is overkill (and frankly so is the basic).

adamj537

From my limited experience, I think the difference is manufacturing technology and throughput: the basic is easier to build; the pro is designed for longer run time per day. For example, my use case is for educational demos, so the pro version is overkill (and frankly so is the basic).

Oh thanks for responding! Oh it's to build the extruder? I thought they also sell them ready made too right? Your design team about making molds and nozzles intrigued me, I like when nozzles can be attached and detached easily, if I may ask, where do you teach?

The machines' plans are open source to enable those with the needed skills to become machine builders. The bazaar is in place to allow machine builders to sell their machines without also needing to do marketing to those who want to do community recycling, and to enable those who can't build machines to get machines, and to sell their products. It's all to lower the barrier of entry for those who want to get involved.

6:15 PM

So, "they" isn't Precious Plastic. It's anyone who builds machines or makes a recycled product.

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6:17 PM

As for me, technically I'm not a teacher. I help run a maker community that has also taken an interest in Precious Plastic. We sponsor engineering senior design projects at a university in Valparaiso, Indiana, USA. It's near Chicago.

Bhorst

you want at least 12n.m of torque. for my first machine i used a windshield wiper motor which had a rated torque of about 6n.m. for polystyrene pellets and regrind that was fine but it burnt out after a year and had a hard time with hard materials. there's a 110v 250w motor on amazon that i bought for my next machine

250 watts thats not enought you would need 1100 watts (edited)

9:44 PM

or 3000 watts (edited)

adamj537

The machines' plans are open source to enable those with the needed skills to become machine builders. The bazaar is in place to allow machine builders to sell their machines without also needing to do marketing to those who want to do community recycling, and to enable those who can't build machines to get machines, and to sell their products. It's all to lower the barrier of entry for those who want to get involved.

it's quite a bit more than just 'downloading the plans', or becoming 'machine builders', or 'mercenaries' tho

its CAD, CAM, electronics, market analysis, bots, hacking, networking, product design, branding, sales talk, freemium support, systems/architecture, scripts, ... you name it

9:51 PM

the 'bazar' is just one out of a dozen channels you might finding yourself targeting ....

9:52 PM

best after all, is to forget about all, and connect with local needs

anybody see this thing? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806039424534.html It was in my suggestions when I logged in

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waterppk

anybody see this thing? https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806039424534.html It was in my suggestions when I logged in

I would not get it

lol, I don't need an opinion on whether to waste my money, it's looks like they built it with a hacksaw but it might get me further along than the bare screw that's been sitting on my desk for over a year with no movement

I have one of these https://tormach.com/machines/robots.html waiting to test an extruder

Robots - Machines

Are you in Academia looking to teach or learn robot programming? The Tormach ZA6 Robot will save you time and effort and get you doing robotics research and education faster! Are you in the Film Industry, a Videographer or YouTuber? You'll be able to save money instead of renting equipment, and still get the shots you need! Or, are you wanting...

waterppk

lol, I don't need an opinion on whether to waste my money, it's looks like they built it with a hacksaw but it might get me further along than the bare screw that's been sitting on my desk for over a year with no movement

I have one of these https://tormach.com/machines/robots.html waiting to test an extruder

its not an opinion im telling you that for a shreeder you would need a 1100 watt motor

Alex_recycles and creates

its not an opinion im telling you that for a shreeder you would need a 1100 watt motor

Uhhh, the link is to a direct granule/pellet extruder on Aliexpress?

9:33 PM

I'm guessing you're back to the impact driver, the peak torque on that will be wayyyy over what you're going to get from a 1100W motor

9:34 PM

it'll continously vary between continuous high RPM and impulse torque when it gets loaded, might work better than you think in a low duty shredder application

a 1100 motor is the minimum

9:35 PM

a watt is a unit of power

9:35 PM

their are 750 watts to a horse power

it's unfortunately a little more complicated than that

https://www.motioncontroltips.com/when-is-motor-output-power-useful-specification-how-is-it-calculated/ The impact nature of the impact breaks a lot of the regular conventions of "watts" as it's an impulse torque that's much harder to simplify into watts versus watts

Danielle Collins

When is motor output power a useful specification and how is it cal...

For an electric motor, output power is found by multiplying the motor's output torque by its rotational speed at that torque level.

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waterppk

it's unfortunately a little more complicated than that

https://www.motioncontroltips.com/when-is-motor-output-power-useful-specification-how-is-it-calculated/ The impact nature of the impact breaks a lot of the regular conventions of "watts" as it's an impulse torque that's much harder to simplify into watts versus watts

torque is in the power equation

10:53 PM

P= T*n

the inertia of the weight makes it a dynamic calculation, it's complicated

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waterppk

the inertia of the weight makes it a dynamic calculation, it's complicated

so basically moment of inertia (edited)

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Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

Things that will remain the same are the thickness of the heater plates. You might be able to get away with using thinner steel but i suggest not doing that because you really want things as rigid as possible. Try your best to keep things as flat as possible too.

Really....got my maths wrong there.......thanks for clarifying that its the sheet area math which will come into play for obvious reasons

.....thanks buddy.....your insights give me a good headstart....

Ben - Precious Plastic Ciledug

The easiest answer to your question is... No. There isn't any guide for this that I am aware of. This is why i'm spamming the chat with all this information for you.

Again overall the math is fairly simple and there's some tolerances so things dont need to be exact. Reducing regular sheet press to 1/4 size: 15kw/4= 3.75kw or 1.875kw per heater plate Please pay attention to your power consumption and amperage and build the circuits accordingly. Feel free to ask questions about this if you're confused or simply don't know what to do. You'll need to spread out your heaters evenly but I suggest not focusing too much heat in the center, usually the problematic areas are the corners. As you will now be creating a sheet 1/4 the size, you will need to exert 1/4 the pressing force. A 300kg spring should work just fine, just keep an eye on it and dont go crazy when loading it up. I suggest some trial and error, watch the spring compress a bit and check your results. most plastics dont need a lot of pressure to push into shape, but that force does come in handy when needed. You don't need to follow the design for the laser cut steel plate honeycomb sort of design. You can use hollow tubing but you need to make sure it's thick enough or else things will flex and bend out of shape. The heater plate material should be aluminium as it conducts heat very nicely. The cold press could be aluminium or steel. I find that steel is economic and does a good enough job. But if you're looking for precision results you'll need a precision mould and a very precise machine....usually this means things will cost a lot more and it may or may not be something you need.

Hey Buddy - We continue to gather material for making a 50cm X 50 cm sheetpress machine. To achieve 1. 875 KW of heat per heater plate, what would you suggest -1) 6 heaters of 300 W each. 2) 9 heaters 225 W each. 3) 12 heaters of 150 W each. See the pic attached and share your thoughts on better arrangement of heaters as well to melt the plastic appropriately.

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Priyank Mishra

Hey Buddy - We continue to gather material for making a 50cm X 50 cm sheetpress machine. To achieve 1. 875 KW of heat per heater plate, what would you suggest -1) 6 heaters of 300 W each. 2) 9 heaters 225 W each. 3) 12 heaters of 150 W each. See the pic attached and share your thoughts on better arrangement of heaters as well to melt the plastic appropriately.

I like option 3 specifically because you'll have better heat in the corners. Remember, heat will transfer from your heaters to the heater plate and then into your frame. So the top heaters will work a little more than the lower ones.

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